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(Central Alps 


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Information respecting the Central Alps, for use In a future 
edition, and contributions to the remaining part of this work, the 
Eastern Alps, will be thankfully received by the Editor. It is 
requested that they may be authenticated by the name and address 
of the writer, and directed to the care of Messrs. Longman & Co., 
39 Paternoster Row, London, E.C. 

The Editor takes this opportunity for offering his thanks to 
numerous contributors from whom he has received valuable in¬ 
formation during the last three years, but to whom at the time 
be was unable to tender his acknowledgments. 





































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TI IT. CENTRAL ALPS: 


INCLUDING THE BERNESE 
OBERLAND, AND ALL SWITZERLAND EXCEPTING 
THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF MONTE ROSA AND THE GREAT ST. BERNARD 
WITH LOMBARDY, AND THE ADJOINING 
PORTION OF TYROL. 


BEING THE SECOND PART OF THE ALPINE GUIDE. 


BY 


JOHN BALL, F.R.S. M.R.I.A. F.L.S. &c. 

• u 


LATE PRESIDENT OP THE ALPINE CLUB, 

% 




LONDON: 

LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. 

1873. 






LONDON' i PRINTED BY 

8POTTISWOODE AND CO.. NEW* STREET SQCARB 
AND PARLIAMENT STREET 





X 


CONTENTS. 


♦ 


Authorities quoted .... 
Preliminary Notes to the Central Alps 
Abbreviations and Explanations 


PAGE 

. xii 
. xiii 
. xx 


CHAPTER VII. 

BERNESE ALPS. 


Section 22. 


DIABLERETS DISTRICT. 


Rte. A. Paris to Ormond Dessus, by Neuchatel and Lausanne 
„ B. Ormond Dessus to Chateau d’Oex aud Bulle 

„ C. Ormond Dessus to Bex. 

„ D. Bex to Sion, by the Cel de Cheville . 

„ E. Sion to Saanen. 

„ F. Saanen to Ormond Dessus. 

„ G. Vevey to Thun, by Bulle and the Simmenthal . 

„ H. Chateau d’Oex to Vevey, on foot or horseback 
„ I. Vevey to Fribourg and Berne .... 

„ K. Lausanne to Berne. 

,, L. Bulle to Thun. 

Section 23. 


4 

11 

12 

13 

15 

18 

19 

22 

23 

24 
26 


GEMMI DISTRICT. 

Rte. A. Paris to the Baths of Leuk, by Basle and Thun—Ascent of the Doldenhorn 

and Altels.28 

„ B. Thun to Kandersteg, by the Kien Thai—Ascent of the Blttmlis Alp . .41 

„ C. Kandersteg to Turtman, or Visp, by the Lotschen Pass . . . .44 

„ D. Baths of Leuk to Ferden or Kippel.46 

„ E. Thun to Sierre, by Adelboden, and the Strubeleck.47 

„ F. Thun to Sion, or Sierre, by the Rawyl Pass.48 

„ G. Kandersteg to Lauenen, by Adelboden aud An der Lenk . . . .51 

„ H. Baths of Leuk to An der Lenk—Ascent of the VVildstrubel . . .52 


Section 24. 

BERNESE OBERLAND. 

Rte. A. Thun to Interlaken and Meyringen, or Reichenbach.58 

„ B. Meyringen to Interlaken, by Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen . . .65 

„ C. Meyringen to Brieg, by the Grimsel.77 

„ D. Viesch to Brieg, by the iEggischhorn and Bell Alp—Ascent of the Finster- 

aarhorn, Jungfrau, Aletschhorn.84 



















VI 


CONTENTS* 


PAGE 

Rte. E. Interlaken to Kandersteg.. • . Ho 

„ F. Lauterbrunnen to Kandersteg.96 

„ G. Lauterbrunnen to Turtman, by the Ldtschenthal—Ascent of the Bietsch- 

horn. 101 

„ H. Lauterbrunnen to the ASggischhorn, by the Aletsch Glacier . . . 103 

„ I. Grindelwald to the ^Eggischhorn—Ascent of the Moncli and Almerhorn . 106 
,, K. Grindelwald to the Grimsel—Ascent of the Schreckhorn . . . .113 

,, L. Rosenlaui to Meyringen, by the Urbachthal and Weitsattel . . . 121 

„ M. Meyringen to Grindelwald. by the Bergli Joch.123 

„ N. Meyringen to the Grimsel, by the Gauli Pass.124 

„ O. Grimsel to the iEggischhorn—Ascent of the Oberaarhorn .... 125 

„ P. Berne to Lucerne, by the Entlebuch.127 

„ Q. Interlaken to Burgdorf, by the Emmenthal. 128 


Section 25. 

TITLIS DISTRICT. 

Brienz or Meyringen to Lucerne, by the Briinig.130 

Meyringen to Stanzstad, by the Melcbthal.132 

Sarnen to Engel berg.134 

Meyringen to Engelberg—Ascent of the Titlis.134 

Meyringen to VVasen, by the Susten Pass—Ascent of the Sustenhorn . 137 

Miihlestalden to the Grimsel, by the Triftlimmi.139 

Stein Alp to Guttannen, by the Steinlimmi and Furtwang Passes—Ascent 

of the Steinhaushorn and the Mahrenhorn.142 

Geschenen in the Valley of the Reuss to Meyringen, by the Geschenenthal. 143 


Rte A. 
„ B. 
„ C. 
„ D. 

E. 

F. 

G. 


11 

11 

19 


H. 


Rte, 

, A. 

11 

B. 

11 

C. 

19 

D. 

11 

E. 

11 

F. 

11 

G. 

11 

II. 

11 

I. 

11 

K. 

11 

L. 

11 

M. 

19 

N. 


CHAPTER VIII. 

ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. 

Section 26. 

FOREST CANTONS. 


Cologne to Altdorf, by Basle, Olten, and Lucerne.147 

Basle to Lucerne, by Zurich—The Rigi.157 

Lucerne to Schwyz and Brunnen.168 

Scliwyz to Riehterschwvl, by Rothenthurm.171 

Schwyz to Rapperschwyl, by Eiu'siedlen.172 

Stanzstad to Altdorf, by Engslberg and the Surenen Pass .... 173 

Stanz to Altdorf, by Isenthal. 175 

Stanz to Altdorf, by Beckenried and the Sonnenberg.176 

Altdorf to Stachelberg, by the Klausen Pass.177 

Schwyz to Glarus, by the Pragel Pass—Ascent of the Glarnisch . .178 

Muotta to Altdorf.. 

Muotta to Stachelberg, by the Bisithal.182 

Lachen to Schwyz or Glarus* by the Waggi Thai.183 











CONTENTS. 


Vll 


Section 27. 


TI1E TODI DISTRICT. 

PAGE 


Rte. A. Zurich to Stachelberg, by Glarus—Ascent of the Todi ... - 185 

„ B. Stachelberg to Amsteg, by the Clariden Grat.197 

C. Basle to Dissentis, by Schaffhausen and Coire.. 202 

A D. Dissentis to Andermatt, by the Oberalp Pass—Sources of the Vorder Rhein . 217 

„ E. Dissentis to Amsteg—Kreuzli Pass.. 219 

„ F. Dissentis to Stachelberg, by the Sand Grat—Ascent of the Stockgron . 220 
„ G. Ilanz, or Dissentis, to Stachelberg, by the Kisten Pass .... 222 
„ H. Ilanz to Elm, in the Sernft Thai, by the Panixer Pass .... 223 

,, I. Reichenau to Elm, by the Segnes Pass.224 

„ K. Glarus to Ragatz, by the Sernfthal and Sardona Glacier .... 225 

„ L. Glarus to Sargans, by the Sernfthal . 228 

„ M. Elm to Stachelberg, by the Richetli Pass.229 

„ N. Reichenau to Ragatz, by the Kunkels Pass.229 


Section 28. 
SENTIS DISTRICT. 


Rte. A. Winterthur to Rorschach, by railway.231 

„ B. Uznach to St. Gall.233 

„ C. Rorschach to Sargans and Coire, by railway.234 

„ D. Rorschach to Trogen, Gais, Appenzell, and Weissbad.235 

„ E. St. Gall to Alstadten.238 

„ F. Weissbad to the Valley of the Rhine.239 

„ G. Wyl to Sargans, by the Toggenburg.240 

„ H. Nesslau to St. Gall, by Urnasch.241 

„ I. Nesslau to Weissbad.242 

„ K. Nesslau to Wesen—Ascent of the Speer.242 

„ L. Wildhaus to Weissbad, by the Kray Alp.243 

„ M. Wildhaus to Wallenstadt, by the Churfirsten.244 


CHAPTER IX. 

LEOPONTINE ALPS. 

Section 29. 

FORMAZZA DISTRICT. 

Rte. A. Obergestelen to Domo d’Ossola, by the Gries Pass . . 

B. Formazza (Andermatten) to Airolo, by the Passo di San Giacomo 
” C. Viesch to Formazza (Andermatten), by the Albrun Pass and Lebendu 

” D. Viesch to Premia, by the Binnenthal. 

tf E. Viesch to lsella, by the Ritter Pass ....... 

„ F. lsella to Premia, by the Val Cherasca.. • 


. 247 
. 250 

• 251 

. 253 
. 254 

• 250 

















Till 


CONTENTS. 


Section 30. 


ST. GOTHAED DISTRICT. . 

PACE 

Kte. A. Fluelen to Bellirizona, by the St. Gothard Pass.259 

,, B. Excursions from Amsteg—Ascents of the Great and Little Windgclle and 

the Bristenstock.269 

„ C. Hospenthal to Obergestelen, by the Furka Pass.271 

„ D. Obergestelen to Airolo, by the Nufenen Pass.273 

„ E. Airolo to Andermatt, by the Val Canaria.274 

„ F. Dissentis to Bellinzona, by the Lukmanier Pass.274 

„ G. Dissentis to Airolo, by the Passo dell’ Uomo.278 


Section 31. 

ADULA DISTRICT. 

Rte. A. Coire to Bellinzona, by the Bernardino Pass—Via Mala 
., B. Hinterrhein to Val Blegno—Ascent of Piz Valrhein . 

„ C. San Bernardino to Roveredo, by Val Calanca 
„ D. Trons to Olivone, by the Greina Pass .... 

„ E. Ilanz to Olivone, by the Vrinthal .... 

„ F. Ilanz to Olivone, by the Zavreila Thai . . . 

„ G. Ilanz to Hinterrhein, by the Valserberg 
„ H. Reichenau to Splugen, by Savien and the Lochliberg Pass 


. 280 
. 287 
. 292 
. 292 
. 294 
- 298 
300 
. 301 


Section 32. 


LOCARNO DISTRICT. 

Rte. A. Bellinzona to Arona, or Sesto Calende, by the Lago Maggiore . . . 304 

„ B. Locarno to Faido, by Val Verzasca.308 

„ C. Locarno to Airolo, by Val Lavizzara.309 

„ D. Locarno to Airolo, by Val Bavona. 311 

„ E. Locarno to Andermatten in Val Formazza . 314 

„ F. Locarno to Premia, bv Val Rovana. 315 

„ G. Locarno to Domo d’ Ossola, by Val Onsernone. 315 

„ H. Locarno to Domo d’ Ossola, by Val Vigezzo. 316 

„ I. Canobbio to Domo d’ Ossola, by Val Canobbina. 317 

„ K. Pallanza, or Intra, to Domo d’ Ossola, by Val Intrasca .... 317 


Section 33. 


COMO DISTRICT. 


Rte. A. Coire to Como, by the Spliigen Pass. 

,, B. Colico to Milan, by Lecco. 

„ C. Bellinzona to Como, by Lugano. 

„ D. Campo Dolcino to Mesocco. 

„ E. Chiavenna to Roveredo.] 

„ F. Gravedona to Bellinzona. 

„ G. Luino to Menaggio, by Lugano. 

„ H. Argegno to Osteno, bv the Val Intelvi—Ascent of the Monte Generoso 

„ I. Laveno to Como, by Varese. 

„ K. Bellaggio to Erba, by Val Assina. 

., L. Como to Lecco, by Erba. . 


. 319 

. 330 
. 333 
. 336 
. 336 
. 337 
337 

• 339 

• 343 

• 344 

• 345 


























CONTENTS, 


ix 


CHAPTER X. 

RHiETIAN ALPS. 


Section 34. 


PR.ETTIGAU DISTRICT. 

PAG I 

Rte. A. Bregenz to Landeck, by Feldkirch and the Arlberg Pass . . . 350 

» B. Bludenz to Landeck, by Montafun and the Paznaunthal . . . 352 

„ C. Feldkirch to Maienfeld.[ 354 

» D. Maienfeld to Stts, by the Prgettigau and the Yereina Pass . . .355 

„ E. Glacier Passes from Klosters to Lavin, or Guarda— Ascent of Piz Linard' 358 

„ F. Passes from the Valley of the Ill to the Praettigau.360 

„ G. Pattenen in Montafun to Guarda, by the Fermunt Pass . . . ! 362 

„ H. Passes from the Paznaunthal to the Engadine. . . 362 

Section 35. 


ALBULA DISTRICT. 

Rte. A. Coire to Samaden, by the Julier Pass.365 

„ B. Thusis to Tiefenkasten.369 

„ C. Coire to Samaden, by the Albula Pass.370 

„ D. Lenz to Klosters, by Davos.372 

„ E. Coire to Davos am Platz, by the Strela Pass. 373 

„ F. Davos am Platz to Siis, by the Fluela Pass. 375 

„ G. Davos am Platz to Scanfs, by the Scaletta Pass—Ascent of the Schwarz- 

horn .376 

„ H. Davos am Platz to Scanfs, by the Sertig Pass.378 

„ I. Bivio to Casaccia, by the Septimer Pass.378 

„ K. Andeer to Casaccia, by the Aversthal. 379 

„ L. Andeer to Chiavenna, by the Aversthal.382 

„ M. Andeer to Campo Dolcino, by the Aversthal.383 


Section 36. 

BERNINA DISTRICT. 

Rte. A. Chiavenna to Nauders, by the Val Bregaglia and Engadine . . . 385 

„ B Samaden to Pontresina—Excursions from Pontresina.393 

„ C. Bevers to St. Moritz, by Val Bever.398 

„ D. Tour of the Bernina — Sella Pass . 398 

„ E. Colico to Bormio, bv the Val Tellina.400 

„ F. Morbegno to the Val Bregaglia, by Val Masino—Ascent of Monte della 

Disgrazia.405 

„ G. Casaccia to Sondrio, by the Muretto Pass.409 

„ H. Pontresina to Chiesa in Val Malenco, by the Capiitschin and Scerscen 

Passes.409 

„ I. Chiesa to Poschiavo, by the Passo di Canciano. 411 

„ K. Samaden to Tirano, by the Bernina Pass.412 

„ L. Pontresina to Bormio. 4 15 

„ M. Bormio to the Engadine, by Val Livigno . 417 


Section 37. 

ORTELER DISTRICT. 

Rte. A. Bormio to Mals—Pass of the Stelvio—Ascent of the Orteler Spitze 
„ B. Bormio to Trento, by Val Furva and Val di Sole 
„ C. Santa Catarina to Latsch, by the Passo Cevedale 


. 421 
. 425 

. . 430 


















X 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Rte. D. Glacier Passes from Santa Catarina to Prad.432 

„ E. Laas to Sulden, by the Laaserthal ..434 

„ F. Mate to Trafoi, by the Suldenthal.435 

„ G. Rabbi to Meran, by the Ultenthal.438 

„ H. Mate to St. Pankraz in the Ultenthal.440 

„ I. Cles to Meran or Botzeu.441 

„ K. Bormio to Santa Maria.442 

„ L. Zernetz to Mals, by the Ofen Pass and Val Mustair .... 444 

„ M. Schuls to Mals, by Val Scarla.445 

„ N. Remus to Mals, by Val d’Uina.440 


CHAPTER XI. 

LOMBARD ALPS. 

Section 38. 

BERGAMASQUE VALLEYS. 


Rte. A. Bergamo to Tirano, by Val Seriana.449 

„ B. Bergamo to Sondrio, by Val Brembana.450 

„ C. Bergamo to Morbegno, by the Passo di San Marco.451 

„ D. Piazza to Morbegno, by Val Stabina—Pizzo dei Tre Signori . . . 452 

„ E. Lecco to Bellano, by Val Sassina.453 

„ F. Varenna to Introbbio—Ascent of the Grigna.455 

„ G. Morbegno to Bellano, by Val Varrone.456 

„ H. Introbbio to Colico—Ascent of the Monte Legnone.457 


Section 39. 


VAL CAMONICA DISTRICT. 

Rte. A. Mate in Val di Sole to Brescia, by the Tonale Pass and Val Camonica . 459 

„ B. Bergamo to Breno in Val Camonica, by Lovere.4GI 

„ C. Bergamo to Breno, by Clusone.462 

„ D. Lovere to Edolo, by Val di Scalve.462 

„ E. Edolo to Sondrio, by the Aprica Pass.463 

„ F. Ponte di Legno to Santa Catarina, by the Gavia Pass .... 463 

„ G. Breno to Lodrone, by the Croce Domini Pass.465 

„ H. Iseo to Gardone in Val Trompia.466 

„ I. Brescia to Lodrone, by Val Trompia.466 

„ K. Brescia to Vestone in Val Sabbia.467 


Section 40. 


ADAMELLO DISTRICT. 


Rte. A. Mate to Salo on the Lake of Garda, by Val Rendena and the Lake 

„ B. Pinzolo to Edolo, by Val di Genova. 

„ C. Condino to Edolo, by Val Daone. 

„ D. Tione to Riva, on the Lake of Garda. 

„ E. Lodrone to Riva, by Val Ampola and the Lake of Ledro . ! 

„ F. Pieve di Ledro to Tione.' 

„ G. Storo to Toscolano on the Lake of Garda, by Val Vestino ! 

„ H. Pinzolo to Riva, by the Bocca di Brenta, and Molveno 


ofIdro . 469 
. 474 
. .478 

. 481 
. 482 
. 484 
. 485 
. . 486 




















LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 


MAPS. 


Key Maf ro Alpine Guide, Part II. . To be pasted inside the cover at the beginning 

The CExrRAL Alps— General Map. To face title-page 

Oiserland District . To face page 54 

Alps of Uri and some of the neighbouring Cantons .... „ 176 

Alps of Glarus and part of the neighbouring Cantons ... „ 188 

Bernina Alps.. „ 383 

Orteler District.. „ 419 

Central Alps— Geological . at end 


PLATE. 

Panorama from the Piz Languard ... » to face page 394 


WOODCUTS. 

The Diablerets. • • 

Panorama seen from the summit of the Gemmi Pass • 


in page 10 
» 38 







AUTHORITIES QUOTED. 

The quotations introduced in the following work are dis¬ 
tinguished by the initials corresponding to the subjoined list 
of authorities, and are chiefly taken from the MSS. notes 
communicated to the Editor. 


W. G. A. 

W. G. Adams, Esq. 

F. A. 

Signor Francesco Ambrosi. 

T. G. B. 

Rev. T. G. Bontiey. 

W. B. 

William Brinton, Esq., M.D. 

E. N. B. 

Edward N. Buxton, Esq. 

G. C. 

M. le Chanoine G. Carrel. 

G. C. C. 

G. C. Churchill, Esq. 

J. J. C. 

J. J. Cowell, Esq. 

R. W. F. 

R. W. E. Forster, Esq. 

J. F. 

Mrs. Freshfield, authoress of ‘ Alpine Byways,’ &c. 

H. B. G. 

H. B. George, Esq. 

W. E. II. 

W. E. Hall, Esq. 

F. Y. H. 

F. Vaughan Hawkins, Esq. 

J. J. H. 

Rev. J. J. Hornby. 

F. J. H. 

Rev. F. J. A. Hort. 

J. G. H. 

J. Godfrey Humphry, Esq. 

F. W. J. 

F. W. Jacomb, Esq. 

J. R. K. 

Rev. J. R. King. 

E. L. 

A Lady. 

M. 

Murray’s ‘ Handbook for Switzerland, Savoy, and Piedmont.* 

W. M. 

William Mathews, jun., Esq. 

A. M. 

Arthur Milman, Esq. 

E. M. 

Herr Edmund von Mojsisovics. 

A. W. M. 

A. W. Moore, Esq. 

R. C. N. 

R. C. Nichols, Esq. 

A. A. R. 

A. Adams Reilly, Esq. 

C. H. P. 

Rev. C. H. Pilkington. 

Iv. S. 

Lt.-Colonel Karl von Sonklar. 

J. S. 

Rev. John Sowerby. 

L. S. 

Leslie Stephen, Fsq. 

F. F. T. 

F. Fox Tuckett, Esq. 

R. S. W. 

R. Spence Watson, Esq. 

A W. 

Arthur P. Whately, Esq. 

C. L. W. 

Rev. C. L. Wingfield. 

S. \V. 

Stephen Winkworth, Esq. 


PRELIMINARY NOTES 


TO 

THE CENTRAL ALPS. 


Tours in the Central Alps. 


The following sketches of tours in Switzerland, and the adjacent parts of 
Lombardy and Tyrol, may be found useful to travellers. It is taken for 
granted that additional time should be allowed for enjoying the more 
interesting spots. All classes of travellers naturally avail themselves of 
railways and steamers when these present themselves. 


I. Carriage Tour in Switzerland—32 days’ easy travelling, exclusive of 
halts, and starting from Basle. 


1. Zurich by rail. 

2. To Lucerne over the Albis, or by Lake 

of Zug and Kiissnacht. 

3. Escholzmatt, by the Entlebach. 

4. Berne. 

5. Railway to Fribourg and Vevey. 

6. By Aigle to Plan des lies. 

7. Chateau d’Oex, by new road; thence to 

Saanen. 

8. Thun, by the Simmenthal. 

9. Interlaken. 

10, 11. Excursions to Lauterbrunnen, and 
Grindelwald. 

12. Baths of Reichenbach, visiting the Giess- 

bach on the way. 

13. Stanzstad or Stanz, by the Briinig. 

14. By Beckenried and lake steamer to Brun- 

nen, thence to Schwyz. 

15. Excursion to Goldau and Morgarten. 

16. Visit Griitli, and proceed to Amstag by 

Altdorf. 


17. Airolo by St. Gothard Pass. 

18. Bellinzona. 

19. San Bernardino, by Val Mesocco. 

20. Spliigen. 

21. Chiavenna, by Spliigen Pass. 

22. Pontresina, or Samaden. 

23. Excursion to Bernina Pass. 

24. Excursion by char to Roseg Glacier. 

25. Molins, by Julier Pass. 

26. Coire, or by new road to Thusis when com. 

pleted. 

27. Excursion to Via Mala, return to Reich* 

enau. 

28. Ragatz, and excursion to Pfafers. 

29. By rail to Wesen j carriage thence to 

Stachelberg. 

30. 31, 32. Return to Basle bv Zurich and 

Schaffhausen ; or go to Friedrichshafen 
on Lake of Constance by rail to Ah- 
stadten ; road to Gais, Appenzell, and 
St. Gall j rail thence to Rorschach. 


II. Carriage Tour of 40 days, exclusive of halts, starting from Rorschach 
on the Lake of Constance, omitting the Bernese Oberland, and in¬ 


cluding the Italian Lakes. 

1. Rail to Ragatz ; excursion to Pfafers. 

2. Rail to Coire; carriage to Thusis. 

3. By Via Mala to Spliigen, thence to San 

Bernardino. 

4 . By Val Mesocco to Bellinzona, and Lo¬ 

carno. 


5. Excursion to Bignasco, and return to Lo¬ 

carno. 

6. Lago Maggiore. Sleep at Pallanza, 

Baveno, or Stresa. 

7. To Lugano by Luino. 

8. Bellaggio, by Porlezza and Menaggio. 





XIV 


PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE CENTRAL ALPS 


9. Excursion to Asso. 

10. Como by steamer; thence to Lecco by 

Erba. 

11. Morbeguo, by Colico. 

12. Excursion to Baths of Masino. 

13. Edolo by Aprica Pass. 

14. Lovere on Lake of Iseo. 

15. Steamer to Sarnico or Iseo; thence to 

Brescia. 

16. Said on Lake of Gard.* 

17. Storo in Italian Tyrol 

18. Riva, by Val di Ledro. 

19. Tione, and Pinzolo. 

20. Trento, by Vezzano. 

21. 22. Excursion to Cles and Rabbi, return¬ 

ing to San Michele. 

23. Meran. 

24. Trafoi. 


25. Bormio, by Stelvio Pass. 

26. Excursion to Sta. Catarina. 

27. Le Prese, by Tirano. 

28. Pontresina, by Bernina Pass. 

29. Excursion to Roseg Glacier. 

30. Molins, by Julier Pass. 

31. Coire. 

32. Stachelberg, by Glarus. 

33. Return to Glarus. Excursion to Kldn- 

thal. 

34. Rail to Rapperschwyl; carriage to Schwyz. 

35. Excursion to Devil's Bridge, returning to 

Am stag. 

36. Lucerne. 

37. Excursion to Sarnen, and return. 

38. Zurich, by Lake of Zug. 

39. 40. SchafFhausen and Basle. 


III. Tour of three months in the Central Alps, starting from Basle, for 
moderate pedestrians, and ladies able to ride. Alternative routes 
given in italics are practicable only on foot. 


1, 2. By Berne and Fribourg to Vevey. 

3. Chateau d’Oex, by Col de Jaman. 

4. Plan des lies, by Comballaz. 

5. Lauenen, by Gsteig. 

6. An der Lenk. 

7. Excursion to Sieben Brunnen. 

8. Thun, by Zweisimmen. 

9. 10. Lauterbrunnen and Miirren, returning 

to Lauterbrunnen. 

11. Excursion to Steinberg Alp, or to Schmad~ 

ribach Fall. 

12. Wengern Alp. 

13. Descent to Grindelwald; visit the Eismeer. 

14. Ascend Faulhorn. 

15. Reichenbacli Hotel, by Hosenlaui. 

16. Grimsel Hospice. 

17. Excursion to Aar Glacier. 

18. Rhone Glacier. 

19. Aeggischhorn Hotel. 

20,21. Excursions thence. 

22. Bell Alp Hotel, by Brieg, or by Aletsch 

Glacier. 

23. Baths of Leuk. 

24. Ascent of Torrenthorn. 

25. Kandersteg, by Gemmi Pass. 

26. Lucerne, bv Brienz and Briinig Pass. 

27. Ascent of Rigi, by Kussnacht or Goldau. 

28. Descent to Weggis. 

29. Lake of Lucerne. Sleep at the Sonnenberg. 

30. Visit Griitli, and go to Altdorf. 

31. Stachelberg by Klausen Pass. 

32. Excursion to Sand Alp. 

33. Ragatz, by Glarus ; visit Pfafers. 

34. Thusis. Excursion to Via Mala. 

35. Tiefenkasten ; thence to St. Moritz, by 

Julier Pass. 

36 . ) 

37. > Excursions from St. Moritz, or Pontresina. 
38.1 

39. Le Prese, by Bernina Pass. 

40. Santa Catarina. 


41. Trafoi, by the Stelvio Pass. 

42. Meran. 

43. Cles, by Botzen, and San Michele. 

44. Char to Dimaro, ride to Pinzolo (securing 

mules beforehand). 

45. Excursion in Val di Genova. 

46. Riva on Lake of Garda, by Tione. 

47. Storo, by Val di Ledro. 

48. Brescia, by Vestone. 

49. Lovere, by Iseo. 

50. Bergamo, by Clusone. 

51. Lecco by rail. Char to Introbbio. 

52. Ride to Bellano, or Varenna; boat to Bel- 

laggio. 

53. 54. Lake of Como. 

■ (Lugano, by Menaggio (Monte Salvatore) 
< —or Monte Generoso, and thence to Lu- 

( gano. 

57. Pallanza, or Baveno. Borromean Islands. 

58. Locarno. 

£9. Excursion to Bignasco. 

60. San Bernardino, by Val Mesocco. 

f Ilanz by Hinterrhein and the Valserberg— 
gjp f or by Spliigen and the Lochliberg. 

64. Dissentis. 

65. Olivone, by Lukmanier Pass. 

66. Faido, or Airolo. 

67. Andermatt, by St. Gothard Pass. 

68. Schwyz, by Altdorf. 

5?’) Basle, by Zurich and Schaffhausen—or 
j Rorschach, by St. Gall and Appenzell. 

Should the season be too far advanced for the 
higher valleys, it would be better to go from 
Locarno, by Bellinzona, to Gravedona on the 
Lake of Como. Thence to Morbegno, making 
an excursion to the Baths of Masino. Thence 
to Chiavenna, and over the Spliigen Pass to 
Coire. Basle or Rorschach may be reached 
thence by railway. 


IV. Pedestrian Tour of two months in Swiss Alps, starting from Rorschach. 


1. Weissbad in Appenzell. 

2. Ascent of Sentis. 

3. Nesslau in Toggenburg. 


4. Wesen, by the Speer. 

5. Glarus, by Obwalden, and the Miirtschei* 

Alp. 





PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE CENTRAL ALPS. 


XV 


6. Elm in Sernfthal. 

7. Segnes Pass to Flims. 

8. 9. Spliigen and Hinterrhein, by Savien 

Plat*. 

10. Excursion to source of the Rhine. 

11. Hanz, by Valserberg. 

j2 ) Stachelberg by Kisten Pass ; thence to 
j a ’( Amstagby Klausen Pass—or by Sand 
Pass, and Clariden Grat—or by Dis- 
) sentis, and Kreuzli Pass. 

15, ) Reichenbach by Surenen Pass and Engel- 

16, > berg, with Ascent of the Titlis—or by 
17 ) Susten Pass, and Ascent of Sustenhorn. 

18. Faulhorn. 

19. Interlaken, by Giessbach. 

20 ) 

2 |’ f Murren ; ascent of the Schilthorn ; Wen- 
‘>21 gern Alp ; Grindelwald. 

23. Giimsel Hospice by Strahleck, or by Fins- 

teraar Joch. 

24. Rhone Glacier. 

25. iEggischhorn Hotel. 

26. 27. Excursions from ASggischhorn. 

28. Bell Alp Hotel. 

29. Ascent of Sparrenhorn. 


30, 

31 ,. 

32. 

33. 

34. 

35. 

36. 

37. ? 

38. ) 

39. 

40. 

41. 

42. 

43. 

44. 

45. 

46. 



Kandersteg by Baths of Leuk (ascent of 
the Torrenthorn),aud the Gemmi Pass; 
thence to Lauterbrunnen by Tschingel 
Pass — or by Kippel ; thence by the 
Lotschen Pass to Kandersteg ; and to 
Lauterbrunnen by the Diinden Grat. 

Frutigen. 

An der Lenk.by Adelboden. 

Ascent of Wildstrubel. 

Sion, by Lauerien, and the Gelten Pass— or 
by Gsteig, and the Sanetsch Pass. 

Grion, by the Col de Cheville. 

Ascent of Grand Moveran, or Diablerets. 

Plan des lies. 

Ascent of Chamossaire. 

Chateau d’Oex. 

Vevey, by Col de Jaman. 

By Moleson to Bulle. 

Baths of Weissenburg, by Val de Belle- 
garde and Kins. 

Ascent of Stockhorn, or Niesen, and then 
to Thun. 

Return to England by Berne and Neu- 
chatel, or by Basle. 


Y. Pedestrian Tour of two months in the Grisons, Lombardy, and Western 
Tyrol. Travellers starting late can modify the arrangement of the 
tour, so as to give the hottest weather to the higher valleys. 


1. Rorschach to Maienfeld; thence to Kiiblis, 

or Klosters. 

2. Davos am Platz. 

3. Ascent of Weissfluh. 

4. Coire, by Strela Pass. 

5. Ascent of St'atzerhorn, descending to 

Thusis. 

6. Andeer. 

7. Casaccia, by Aversthal. 

8,9. Baths of Masino, by Bondo, or Castasegna. 

10. Return to Casaccia, by Zocca Pass. 

11. St. Moritz ; thence to Poniresina by Acla, 

or by Surlei Fuorcla. 

12. 13. Excutsions from Pontresina. 

14. ) Poschiavo, or Le Prese, by Sella Pass, or 

15. ) Caputschin Pass, and by Canciano Pass. 

16. Santa Catarina. 

17. ? Excursions from Sta. Catarina, or Baths 

18. ) of Bormio. 

19. Trafoi. Visit Drey Brunnen. 

20. Salt in Martellthal. 

21. To Pejo, or Rabbi by Glacier Pass. 

22. 23. Pinzolo, in Val Rendena. 

24,25. Excursions from Pinzolo. 

26. Riva, by Tione and Ballino. 

27. Storo. 

28. Bagolino. 


29. Breno in Val Camonica, by Croce Domini 

Pass. 

30. Lovere, on Lake of Iseo. 

31. Castione by Val di Scalve. 

32. Ascent of Monte Presolana. 

33. Fiumenero, in Val Seriana. 

34. Piazza, or Olmo, in Val Brembana. 

35. Ascend Pizzo dei Tre Signori, descend to 

Mines of Valbona, or to Introbbio. 

36. Varenna, by Cainallo Pass. 

37. Premana, by Bellano. 

38. Ascend Legnone; descend thence to Mor- 

begno. 

39. Bellaggio, or Tremezzo. 

40. 41. Excursions about Lake of Como. 

42, 43. Monte Generoso. Lugano. 

44, 45. Visit Lago Maggiore, and goto Locarno. 
fSan Carlo in Val Ilavona; thence to An- 
< dermatten in Val Formazza—or by Cevio 
to Premia. 

( Brieg, by Isella, Val Cherasca, and Kalt- 
. ’ ) wasser Joch. or by Ritter Pass—or else 
1 by Val Devera, the Kriegalp Pass, or 
u '( the Col della Rossa. 

Return to England by Sion and the Lake 
of Geneva. 


Books and Maps connected with the Central Alps. 

It appears convenient to give in this place a list of books especially 
connected with the districts included in the present volume, and also a list 
of maps. In regard to the latter it must be observed that the detailed maps 
of particular districts in Switzerland published before the appearance of the 
Federal Map, produced under the direction of General Dufour, have been 
completely supplanted by that admirable work. It is now complete, and 
the traveller who would quit beaten tracks should provide himself with 






Xvi PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE CENTRAL ALPS. 

the sheets comprising the district, that he intends to visit. A new edition 
. of Keller’s general map of Switzerland, entitled ‘ Keller’s zweite Reisekarte 
der Schweiz,’ has been announced as this volume was going to press, but 
the Editor has not seen it. 

The territory comprised in the present volume fell within three states 
when the existing Government maps were executed. A small portion only, 
including the valley of the Tosa, and the western shores of the Lag-o Mag- 
giore, is comprehended in the general maps of Piedmont published by the 
Stato Maggiore, or War Department, at Turin. Those maps have justly 
been the object of severe criticism, and fall much’below the level of other 
similar modern works. 

The general map of Venetian Lombardy, executed by the Austrian 
Government, is on the whole satisfactory. It is needless to say that the 
territory included in the map now forms a part of the kingdom of Italy. 
A tolerable reduction of that map, in four sheets, has been published by 
Artaria at Milan. The NW. sheet nearly comprises the portion of the 
country described in the present volume. 

The Austrian map of Tyrol is inferior to that last spoken of, and a 
satisfactory map of that country on a scale suited to a mountaineer is still a 
desideratum. Mayr’s general map of Tyrol and the adjoining territory is 
tolerably good; and Scheda’s excellent map of the Austrian Empire gives 
every detail that is possible on the scale adopted in his work. 

List of Books connected with the Central Alps. 

Berg- und Gletscher-Fahrten in den Hochalpen der Schweiz, by G. Studer, M. 
Ulrich, and J. J. Weilenmann, 1 vol. Schulthess, Zurich, 1859. 

- Second series, l vol. Schulthess, Zurich, 1863. 

Coaz (J.)—Ersteigung des Piz Valrhein. In Jahresbericht der Naturforschendea 
Gesellschaft Graubiindens, 1857-8, Chur, 1859. 

Das Hochgebirge von Grindelwald, by Pr. Aebi Ev. Fellenberg and Gerwer, 
Coblenz, 1865. 

Ebel (J. G.)—Voyage pittoresque dans le Canton des Grisons. &c.,avec 32 Vues 
et une Carte routiere, par J. J. Meyer, 8vo. Zurich, 1827. 

Engelhardt (C. M.)—Naturschilderungen aus den hbchsten Schweizer-Alpen, 

1 vol. with atlas, Basel, 1840. 

Freshfield (Mrs. H.)—A Summer Tour in the Grisons and Italian Valleys of the 
Bernina, 1 vol. Longmans, 1862. 

Heer und Blumer. Der Kan ton Glarus, Ebendas, 1846 (mit der Gebirgskunde 
von Arnold Escher). 

Hegetschweiler (J.)—Reisen in den Gebirgstock zwischen Glarus und Graubiin- 
den, 1819-20-22, 1 vol. Orell Fiissli, Zurich, 1825. 

Hirzel-Escher. Wanderungen in weniger besuchte Alpengegenden der Schweiz, 
&c. 1 vol. Orell Fiissli, Zurich, 1829. 

Huber (W.) —Les Glaciers. Paris, Challamel aine, 1867. 

Jahrbuch des Schweizer Alpenclubs. 4 vols. Bern, 1864 to 1S67. 

Kasthofer. Bemerkungen auf einer Alpenreise liber den Susten, Gotthard, Ber- 
nardin, und Aarau, 1822. 

Latrobe (C. S.) —The Alpenstock; or Sketches of Swiss Scenery and Manners, 

1 vol. 2nd edition, London, 1839. 

Lebert (Prof. Dr. II.).—Das Engadin, seine Heilquellen, seine Natur, und seine 
Bewohner, 1 vol. Korn, Breslau, 1861. 

Lechner (Ernst)—Piz Languard und die Bernina-Gruppe bei Pontresina, Oberen- 
gadin, l vol. Engelmaun, Leipzig, 1858. 



PKELIMINARY NOTES TO THE CENTRAL ALPS. XVii 

Leonhardi (G.)—Das Poschiavino Thai, 1 vol. Engelmann, Leipzig, 1859. 

--Das Veltlin, 1 vol. Engelmann, Leipzig, 1859. 

- Der Comersee und seine Umgebungen, Engelmann, Leipzig. 
Lory. Voyage pittoresque de l’Oberland Bernois, fol.,30 col. pi., Didot, Par s. 1822. 
Lory (fik )—Souvenirs de la Suisse, ou Recueil de Vues . . . pour faire suite au 
Voyage pittoresque dans l’Oberland Bernois, 37 col. pi, fol. Neuchatel, 1829. 
Meyer (J. R. & H )—Reise auf den Jungfrau-Gletscher und Ersteigung seines 
Giptels, im Augstmonat 1811 unternommen; aus den Miszellen fiir die 
neueste Weltkunde besonders abgedruckt. 

Meyer (R )—Reise auf die Eisgebirge des Kantons Bern, und Ersteigung ihrer 
hoc listen Gipfel im Sommer 1812, Sauerla«der, Aarau, 1813. 

Papon (Dr. J )—Engadin. Zeichnungen aus der Natur und dem Volksleben eines 
unbekannten Alpenlandes, 1 vol. Scheitlin und Zollikofer, St. Gallen, 1857. 

Payer (Lieut. J.; -Durcbforschung der Trafoier Alpen. In ‘ Petermann’a 

Mittheilungen,’ X. 1806. Gotha, Perthes. 

•--Die Ortler Alpen (Sulden-Gebiet und Monte Cevedale). 

In ‘ Petermann’s Mittheilungen.’ Ergiinzuugsheft, No. 18. 
1867. Gotha, Perthes. 

Rambert (E.)—L u s Alpes suisses. 2 de serie. Lausanne et Paris, 1866. 

Rbder una Tscharner. Der Kanton Graubiinden, historisch, geographisch, 
statistisch geschildert, lte Abtheilung, St. Gallen, 1838. 

Rohrdorf. Reise und Ersteigung der Jungfrau in August, 1828. 

Roth (A.)—Gletscherfahrten in den Berner Alpen, 1 vol. Springer, Berlin, 1861. 

-Finsteraarhornfahrt, 1 vol., Springer, Berlin, 1861. 

-und v. Fellenberg. Doldenhorn und Wcisse Frau, with 11 coloured 

illustrations and a map, Baedeker, Coblenz, 1863. 

-The same work in English, Baedeker, Coblenz, 1863. 

Simler (Dr. R. T.) — Der Todi-Rusein, und die Excursion nach Oberland Alp, 
with coloured illustrations and a contour map, Haller, Bern, 1863. 

Simond. Voyage en Suisse dans les annees 1817,1818 et 1819, 2 vols. 8 vo. Paris, 
1824. 

Studer (Gottlieb)—Topographische Mittheilungen aus dem Alpengebirge, 1 vol. 

and atlas, Huber & Co. Bern and St. Gallen, 1843. 
Theobald (Prof. G.)—Das Bundner Oberland; oder Vorderrhein mit seineu 

Seitenthalern, 1 vol. Hitz, Chur, 1861. 

-Naturbilder aus den Rhatischen Alpen. Ein Fiihrer durch 

Graubiindten, 2 nd edition, maps and illustrations, Hitz, 
Chur, 1862. 

-‘Das Thai von Poschiavo’ und ‘ Samnaun ’ in Jahres- 

bericht der Naturforschenden Gesellschaft Graubundens, 
1857-8, Chur, 1859. 

-Cima da Flix und Piz Err, in same work, 1860-61. 

Tscharner (P. C. von) — Wanderungen durch die Rhiitischen Alpen, 2 vols. 
Zurich, 1829. 

Tschudi (Iwan)—Schweizerfuhrer, 1 vol. in 3 parts, St. Gallen, 1865. 
Weilenmann (J. J.)—Ersteigung des Piz Linard im Unter-Engadin, 1 vol. 
Scheitlin & Zollikofer, St. Gallen, 1859. 

List of Maps of the Central Alps. 

Dufour (Genl.)—Topographischer Atlas der Schweiz, V() ,’ 00 ?? , 25 Blatter. 

-Carte Topographique du Canton de Geneve, 255 oo> 4 Dl., Geneve, 

1837-38. 



















XV 111 


PRELIMINARY NOTES TO THE CENTRAL ALPS. 


Giimbel (C. W.)—Topographische Karte des Kantons Zurich, 32 Bl. 

Keller (H.)—Zweyte Reisekarte der Schweiz, Ziirien. 

Leuthold (H. F )—Reisekarte der Schweiz, Zurich. 

Michaelis (E. H.) —Carta della Republica e Cantone del Ticino, - ^doo ' 1 ^1., *^7 
Schlagintweit (A. H.)—Karte der Monte Rosa und seinen Umgebungen im Jahre 
1861 entworfen, Weigel, Leipzig, 1854 

Studer (B.) u. Escher von der Linth. Carte geologique de la Suisse, Wurster & 
Cie., Winterthur, 1853. 

- (Gottlieb;—Karte der siidlichen Wallisthiiler, 

Weiss (J. H.)—Atlas Suisse, &c., 1]5 1 20(j , 16 Blatter, Aarau, 1786-1802. 

- (V.)—Der Kanton Bern, ^ 600 ™' 1 Bl., Bern, 1830,2nd edition, 1854. 

Wurster u. Cie. Karte des Kantous Graubiintden, 250 \ )0 - 0 , 1 Bl., Wurster & Cie., 
Winterthur, 1862. 

Ziegler. Neue Ziegler’sche Karte der Schweiz. Wurster & Cie., Winterthur, 1857. 

- (J. M.)—Topographische Karte der Kantone Sr. Gallen und Appenzell, 

16 Bl., Winterthur u. Berlin, 1852-55. 

-Karte des Cantons Glarus, 50 ^ 00 , 2 gr. Bi., Wurster & Cie., 

Winterthur, 1862. 

-Ueber topographische Karten, mit 4 reducirten Karten vom 

Kanton Glarus, 4 Bl., Wurster & Cie., Winter¬ 

thur, 1862. 

----Karte des Kantons Tessin, 1 Bl., Wurster & Cie., 

Winterthur. 

The reader is referred to the Introduction to this work for information 
respecting books of a more general character, scientific and descriptive, con¬ 
nected with the chain of the Alps. 

















THE 


ALPINE GUIDE. 


CENTRAL ALPS. 



ABBREVIATIONS AND EXPLANATIONS. 


The following are the chief abbreviations used in this work :— 

hrs., m.—for hours and minutes. When used as a measure of distance, one 
hour is meant to indicate the distance which a tolerably good walker will traverse 
in an hour, clear of halts, and having regard to the difficulty of the ground. 
In cases where there is a considerable difference of height, the measure given is 
intended as a mean between the time employed in ascending and descending, 
being greater in the one case and less in the other. 

ft., yds.—for feet and yards. The heights of mountains, &c., are given in 
English feet above the level of the sea, and are generally indicated in the 
manner usual in scientific books, by the figures being enclosed in brackets, 
with a short stroke. 

m.—for mile. Unless otherwise expressed, distances are given in English 
statute miles. 

rt., 1.—for right and left. The right side of a valley, stream, or glacier, is 
that lying on the right hand of a person following the downward course of the 
stream. 

The points of the compass are indicated in the usual way. 

Names of places are referred in the Index to the pages where gome useful 
information respecting them is to be found. 

Throughout this work the reader is frequently referred for further information 
to the Section and Route where this is to be found. When the reference is 
made to a passage occurring in the same Section, the Route alone is mentioned. 


ALPINE GUIDE. 


-<*>J®<oo- 

CHAPTER VII. 

BERNESE ALPS. 


Section 22. 

DIABLERETS DISTRICT. 

Route A—Paris to Ormond Dessus, by 

Neuchatel and Lausanne . 4 

Route B—Ormond Dessus to Chateau 

d’Oex and Bulle . . 11 

Route C—Ormond Dessus to Bex . . 12 

Route D —Bex to Sion, by the Col de 

Cheville .... 13 

Route E—Sion to Saanen ... 15 

Route F—Saanen to Ormond Dessus . 18 

Route G —Vevey to Thun, by Bulle and 

the Simmenthal ... 19 

Route H—Chateau d’Oex to Vevey, on 

foot or horseback . . 22 

Route I —Vevey to Fribourg and Berne 23 
Route K—Lausanne to Berne . . 24 

Route L—Bulle to Thun ... 26 

Section 23. 

GEMMI DISTRICT. 

Route A—Paris to the Baths of Leuk, 
by Basle and Thun—Ascent 
oitheDoldenhorn and Altels 28 
Route B—Thun to Kandersteg, by the 
Kien Thai—Ascent of the 
Bltimlis Alp .... 41 

Route C—Kandersteg to Turtman, or 

Visp, by the Lotschen Pass. 44 

Route D—Baths of Leuk to Ferdeu or 

Kippel .... 46 

Route E—Thun to Sierre.'by Adelboden, 

and the Strubeleck . . 47 

Route F—Thun to Sion, or Sierre, by the 

Rawyl Pass .... 48 

Route G—Kandersteg to Lauenen, by 

Adelboden and Ander Lenk 51 

Route H—Baths of Leuk to An der Lenk 

—Ascent of the Wildstrubel 62 

Section 24. 

BERNESE OBERLAND. 

Route A—Thun to Interlaken and Mey¬ 
ringen, or Reichenbach . 58 

Route B —Meyringen to Interlaken, by 
Grindelwald and Lauier- 
brunnen .... 65 

Route C—Meyringen to Brieg, by the 

Grimsel .... 77 


Of the preceding portion of this work 
the larger part was devoted to the 
description of the Pennine Alps and 

PART II. B 


Route D—Viesch to Brieg, by the iEg- 
gischhorn and Bell Alp—As¬ 
cent of the Finsteraarhorn, 
Jungfrau, Aletschhorn . 84 

Route E—Interlaken to Kandersteg . 95 

Route F—Lauterbrunnen to Kandersteg 96 

Route G—Lauterbrunnen to Turtman, 
by the Lo'tschenthal—As¬ 
cent of the Bietschhorn . 101 

Route H—Lauterbrunnen to the TEg* 
gischhorn, by the Aletsch 

Glacier.103 

Route I—Grindelwald to the iEggisch- 
horn—Ascent of the Monch 
and Almerhorn . . . 106 

Route K—Grindelwald to the Grimsel— 

Ascent of the Schreckhorn . 113 

Route L—Rosenlaui to Meyringen, by 
the Urbachthal and YVeit- 

sattel.121 

Route M—Meyringen to Grindelwald, by 

the Bergli Joch . . . 123 

Route N—Meyringen to the Grimsel, by 

the Gauli Pass . . . 124 

Route O—Grimsel to the/Eggischhorn— 

Ascent of the Oberaarhorn 125 

Route P— Berne to Lucerne, by the 

Entlebuch .... 127 

Route Q —Interlaken to Burgdorf, by the 

Emmenthal .... 128 

Section 25. 

TITLIS DISTRICT. 

Route A—Brienz or Meyringen to Lu¬ 
cerne, by the Briinig . . 130 

Route B—Meyringen to Stanzstad, by 

tiie Melch Thai . . .132 

Route C—Sarnen to Engelberg . . 134 

Route D—Meyringen to Engelberg— 

Ascent of the Titlis . . 134 

Route E—Meyringen to Wasen, by the 
Susten Pass—Ascent of tiie 
Sustenhorn . . . . 137 

Route F—Miihlestalden to the Grimsel, 

by the Triftlimmi . . 139 

Route G—Stein AlptoGuttannen, by the 
Steinlimmi and Furtwang 
Passes — Ascent of the 
Steinhaushorn and the 
Mahrenhorn . . . 142 

Route H—Geschenen in the valley of the 
Reuss to Meyringen, by the 
Geschenenthal . . . 143 


the ranges immediately connected 
with them. To that group, and to 
those extending from it to the east- 










0 


BERNESE ALPS. § 22 . 

ward, and hereinafter described, the 
designation of main chain of the Alps 
is commonly given, both because it 
is the dividing range between the 
waters that flow into the basin of the 
Po on the one hand, and those which 
are distributed through France, Ger¬ 
many, and Eastern Europe on the 
other, and also because its height and 
its geological constitution point it out 
as the region where the forces that 
have elevated the Alps have acted 
with most intensity. 

The most considerable of all the 
secondary ranges of the Alps is that 
which is described in the present 
chapter under the title Bernese Alps. 
Under this denomination we include 
the entire range which extends from 
the gorge of St. Maurice, through 
which the Rhone finds its way to the 
Lake of Geneva, to the still narrower 
defile that gives a passage to the 
Reuss in its descent from the St. 
Gothard to the Lake of Lucerne. 
The principal ridge, whose highest 
peak is the Finsteraarhorn, forms the 
watershed between the Cantons Berne 
and Valais, being limited to the S. 
by the deep trench forming the valley 
of the Rhone; but on the northern 
side a wide tract of mountain coun¬ 
try connected with this range ex¬ 
tends through a great part of Canton 
Berne, throwing out branches to the 
W. into the adjoining Cantons of 
Vaud and Fribourg, and to the E. into 
Uri and Unterwalden. 

It is in the central and eastern 
portions of the range only that crys¬ 
talline rocks make their appearance ; 
the western part is composed exclu¬ 
sively of sedimentary deposits, and the 
secondary ridges extending through 
Berne and the adjoining cantons are 
formed of jurassic, -cretaceous, or 
eocene strata. To the eye of the geo¬ 
logist it is not easy to fix limits to 
the range which culminates in the 
peaks of the Bernese Oberland. To 
the WSW., as has been remarked in 
Sections 12 and 17 of this work, it 
is evidently connected with the ranges 


DIABLEItETS DISTRICT. 

that extend across Northern Savoy 
and Dauphine, while in the opposite 
direction it is still more closely 
linked with the chain of the Todi, 
from which it is separated by the defile 
of the Reuss. 

Although the outer valleys are ex¬ 
tremely irregular in their direction, 
having owed their origin in great part 
to erosive forces acting on friable 
strata, there is amongst them an 
unmistakeable tendency to parallel¬ 
ism with the main ridge, which in 
its turn conforms to the general di¬ 
rection that predominates in the Pen¬ 
nine chain. Accompanying this fact 
is the frequent recurrence of deep 
and narrow valleys, or true clefts, in 
a direction transverse to that of the 
main chain. Two such clefts are the 
defiles of the Rhone and the Reuss, 
which form the orographic limits of 
the entire group. 

The extreme beauty of the scenery, 
and the facilities offered to travellers 
by the general extension of good inns 
and other needful appliances, must 
always make the Bernese Oberland 
one of the portions of the Alps most 
visited by tourists. Unlike the 
French and Piedmontese Alps, which 
until very lately have been left to be 
explored by strangers, this region 
has been long visited by Swiss tra¬ 
vellers and men of science. They 
have explored most of the mountain 
ranges not very difficult of access, 
and, further than this, have attained 
most of the higher summits. The 
works of M. Desor and M. Gottlieb 
Studer, referred to in the Introduc¬ 
tion, have been followed by several 
other publications that bear testimony 
to Swiss mountaineering activity ; yet 
the adventurous members of the Al¬ 
pine Club have found room for many 
new expeditions, both in climbing 
peaks previously untouched, and in 
devising passes across portions of 
the range where nature seemed to 
have placed impassable barriers to 
human enterprise. The western por¬ 
tion of the chain, presenting les* 




DIABLERETS DISTRICT. 


3 


lofty summits, and comparatively in¬ 
considerable glaciers, has attracted 
far less attention, and on this ac¬ 
count, perhaps, is less well supplied 
with inns and other conveniences for 
travellers. For the same reason, 
however, it offers attractions to those 
■who prefer to the frequented haunts 
of tourists retired spots where, in fol¬ 
lowing the track of the native cha¬ 
mois hunter, they discover scenes 
whose beauty is heightened by the 
charm of surprise. 

It may be remarked, that the range 
of the Bernese Alps described in the 
present chapter furnishes to the judi¬ 
cious traveller ample occupation for 
a long summer's tour. The early por¬ 
tion of the season being passed in the 
beautiful district adjoining the Lake 
of Geneva, he would gradually ad¬ 
vance towards the east—shifting his 
head-quarters in succession from Plan 
des Isles to An der Lenk, and thence to 
Kandersteg or Leukerbad—devoting 
the larger portion of the season to the 
grand scenery of the Oberland. 

The arrangements made in the Can¬ 
ton Berne for the accommodation of 
travellers, and for the supply of horses, 
carriages, and guides, are usually suffi¬ 
cient and satisfactory. In the Ober¬ 
land the charges are fixed by a tariff, 
which will be found in the Introduc¬ 
tion to § 24. In the Valais the Can¬ 
tonal authorities have also undertaken 
to establish a tariff which has been 
frequently modified. Travellers should 
obtain the latest information on the 
subject through innkeepers. The Va¬ 
lais rules are marked by the mean and 
grasping spirit which seems charac¬ 
teristic of the proceedings of the local 
authorities. A traveller arriving with 
horses hired in an adjoining Canton is 
liable to have them sent back, in order 
to force him to engage those of in¬ 
habitants of the place where he hap¬ 
pens to be. Such is the system of 
protection carried out to its legitimate 
consequences. 


SECTION 22. 

DIABLERETS DISTRICT. 

At its western extremity the main 
range of the Bernese Alps is abruptly 
cut short by the defile of St. Mau¬ 
rice, which separates the Dent de 
Hordes from the Dent du Midi, and 
the lofty range described in § 17, by 
a trench 8,000 ft. in depth. The Dent 
de Murcles (9,639') is succeeded by the 
Grand Mover an (10,043'), and this by r 
the many-peaked mass of the Dia- 
blerets, whose highest summit reaches 
10,666 ft. This adjoins the Oldenhom 
(10,250'), beyond which the range 
falls away to the E. towards the 
Sanetsch Pass, which forms the na¬ 
tural limit of this member of the 
Bernese chain. If the portion of the 
main range here included be short 
and of secondary importance, the 
minor ridges connected with it extend 
through a considerable portion cf the 
Cantons of Vaud and Fribourg; the 
chief of them, extending northward 
from the Oldenhorn, forms the line 
of demarcation between the Cantons 
of Vaud and Berne. Apart from the 
well-known sites at the eastern end 
of the Lake of Geneva, which may 
be held to belong to this district, the 
most attractive head-quarters to the 
mountaineer will be found in the Vat 
des Ormonds, where fair accommoda¬ 
tion is now found at several good coun¬ 
try inns and pensions. The neighbour¬ 
hood of Bex abounds in fine scenery, 
and possesses many attractions for the 
naturalist; but the situation is rather 
too hot for the summer season, and 
mountain excursions are laborious from 
the long ascent necessary to rise above 
so deep a valley. Unlike the remain¬ 
ing portions of the Bernese Alps, 
where German is the native tongue 
of the inhabitants, French is here 
the prevailing language, except in the 
neighbourhood of Saanen and in some 
valleys of the Canton Fribourg. 


B 2 





I 


4 BERNESE ALPS. § 22. 

Route A. 

PARIS TO ORMOND DESSUS, BY NEU 
CHATEL AND LAUSANNE. 


Dijon (by railway) 

Kilo¬ 

metres 

315 

English 

miles 

195f 

Dole 

47 

29 i 

Pontarlier 

94 

5*2 

Neuchatel . 

46 

2*i 

Lausanne . . 

73 

4->i 

Vevev . . . 

18* 

111 

Villeneuve . . 

11 

7 

Aigle . 

. 12 

n 


616$ 3*3f 


Sepev (by road) . 


12 

7i 

Ormond Dessus . 

• 

11 

7 



23 

in' 


The railway from Paris to Neu¬ 
chatel, opened in 18G3, is by many 
degrees the most, direct line for tra¬ 
vellers from England bound for Central 
or Southern Switzerland. The scenery, 
and especially the descent from the 
Jura towards Neuchatel. is extremely 
interesting—best seen by those sitting 
on the rt. hand going from Paris. It 
has, however, the misfortune to be sub¬ 
ject to the Paris, Lyons, and Mediterra¬ 
nean Company, whose policy it is to 
disregard all traffic save that of the 
Marseilles line, with a partial exception 
in favour of the longer and more ex¬ 
pensive route to Switzerland by Geneva. 
There is but one direct train (the night 
mail) from Paris to Neuchatel, fast as 
far as Dijon, but taking 7 hrs. to per¬ 
form 119 miles thence to Neuchatel. 
Travellers pressed for time may go on 
without change of carriage direct to 
Berne or Lucerne, but if bound for 
Lausanne must descend at the Auver- 
nier station, close to Neuchatel, and 
there catch the train to Lausanne, 
reaching that town about noon. By 
at once taking the train to Villeneuve, 
they may thus get to Sion in little more 
than 20 hrs. from Paris, or, if bound 
for the Val des Ormonds, may easily 
reach any of the inns in the upper part 
of the valley in time for dinner on the 
day after they have left Paris. Tra¬ 
vellers going from Switzerland to Paris 
are rather better treated, as there is one 


DIABLERETS DISTRICT. 

train that performs the journey in about 
13 hrs., and during the summer season 
they may go the whole way from Berne 
to Paris, without change of carriage, in 
about 15 hrs. 

It should not be forgotten that the 
Swiss railways are regulated by Berne 
time, which is 26 minutes in advance 
of Paris time, kept on all French rail¬ 
ways. 

At Dijon the traveller leaves the 
main line from Paris to Lyons, and 
follows the branch line leading to 
Besan£on and Belfort as far as Dole. 
Here, unless by the night mail, he 
again changes carriage for the branch 
to Pontarlier, and reaches the foot of 
the Jura range at the Mouchard station. 
It was originally intended to carry the 
railway to Pontarlier by 

Salins (Inns: H. des Messageries; 
Sauvage), a small town, with saline 
springs producing annually a large 
quantity of salt, and now frequented 
for the sake of the baths and a hydro¬ 
pathic establishment opened in 1859. 
The main line follows a different di¬ 
rection, but there is a branch 5 m. 
in length leading from Mouchard to 
Salins. Another longer branch line 
leads SW. from the Mouchard station 
to Lons-ne-Saulnier, passing at a dis¬ 
tance of m. Arbois, well known for 
an agreeable, sparkling wine, of much 
repute in this part of France. 

At Mouchard the main line bends 
SE., and gradually ascends to the cen¬ 
tral plateau of the Jura, where stands, 
at 2,854 ft. above the sea, the frontier 
town of Pontarlier (Inn : Hotel Na¬ 
tional). The luggage of travellers en¬ 
tering France is examined at the rail¬ 
way station. Near this place one of 
the highest summits of the Jura, called 
the Grand Taureau^A, 350'), commands 
a wide view, extending from Mont 
Blanc to the Grand Ballon in the 
Vosges, but not nearly equal to those 
gained from the eastern slopes of the 
Jura which overlook the plain and 
the lakes of Switzerland, backed by 
the snowy ranges of the Bernese 
Alps. 









ROUTE A.-JURA MOUNTAINS. 


5 


The Jura mountains, though not 
comparable, in point of natural beauty, 
even with the secondary ranges of the 
Alps, present some picturesque scenes, 
and are interesting to the geologist 
and the naturalist from the numerous 
contrasts which they present to the 
greater mountain region to which 
they form an exterior belt to the N. 
and W. In place of the violent dis¬ 
turbances that have uplifted the strata 
of the Alps, very commonly setting 
them on edge, or even reversing the 
natural order of superposition, we 
here find a series of comparatively 
gentle undulations, increasing gradu¬ 
ally in height as we pass from Franee 
towards Switzerland, and, in the in¬ 
tervals, broad and gently-sloping val¬ 
leys parallel to the general direction 
of the range, which, after running 
nearly due N. from the frontier of 
Savoy, is gradually bent NE., and 
ultimately tends nearly due E. in 
the northern cantons of Switzerland. 
In a few places only the rocky 
undulations that form the principal 
ridges are cut through by narrow 
gorges, through which the streams 
escape on either side towards France 
or Switzerland. The highest ridge 
which faces the plain of Switzerland 
alone presents a somewhat abrupt as¬ 
pect, as on that side it descends by an 
almost unbroken slope to the 2evel of 
the plain. 

The vegetation of the Jura has been 
the subject of an important work by 
M. Thurmann, entitled Pliytostatique 
du Jura. The prevalence of exten¬ 
sive peat-bogs, which are compara¬ 
tively rare in the Alps, supplies a 
home to many Scandinavian species, 
most of which are found in the colder 
parts of the British Islands, but are 
rare, or unknown, elsewhere in Cen¬ 
tral Europe. Such are Saxifraga Hir- 
culus , Oxycoccus palustris, Andromeda 
polifolia, Swertia perennis, Alsine stric/a, 
Betulanana, Scheuchzeriapalustris, and 
many Carices. Several rare plants are 
found on the higher calcareous ridges, 
or on the slopes of the eastern declivity. 


Of these, Arahis serpyllifolia, Iberis 
saxatilisy Cephalaria alpina, Crepis 
montuna, Ligusticum ferulaceum, Epi- 
pogium Gmelini, Erythronium Dens 
Canis , Festuca Scheuchzeri , and F. 
pumila, deserve especial notice. 

The high road and the railway to 
Neuchatel are carried for a short way 
along the Doubs, close to the fort of 
Joux, which guards this entrance into 
France, and then turning NE. through 
a defile, pass the Swiss frontier at Les 
Verrieres (3,061'), about 7 m. from 
Pontarlier. Beyond this village the 
line traverses another narrow gorge, 
and following the stream of the Reuss, 
descends to Motiers, once the residence 
of J.-J. Rousseau, and then to Travers 
(2,392'), a village which gives its name 
to the valley. From this or the fol¬ 
lowing station of Noiraigue an excur¬ 
sion may be made to the Creux du Vent 
(4,806'), a mountain nearly level at the 
top, which derives its name from a 
singular hollow, nearly 2 m. in cir¬ 
cumference and 1,000 ft. deep, lying 
near to the summit. This is the great¬ 
est example of this class of hollow 
depressions which are characteristic 
of the Jura, and known as Cirques 
Jurassiques. The effect of the echoes 
produced by the discharge of a gun 
into the hollow is said to be extra- 
ordinaiy. In certain states of the 
weather it is filled by a mass of white 
vapour, which exhibits a singular agi¬ 
tation, as though it arose from a mass 
of water in violent ebullition. The 
pedestrian may descend either to Neu¬ 
chatel or to Concise, half-way between 
that town and Yverdun, being rewarded 
for his expedition by the glorious views 
of the lake and the snowy Alps that 
are gained from all the neighbouring 
heights of the Jura. 

At the Auvernier station, less than 3 
m. from Neuchatel, the railway joinsthe 
line from Neuchatel to Yverdun and 
Lausanne. If anxious to reach the 
latter city •without delay, the traveller 
will sometimes find it advantageous to 
descend here, in order to take a train 
from Neuchatel which might otherwise 




f> BERNESE ALPS. § 22. 

be missed, but if not pressed for time 
he will do well to proceed to 

Neuchatel (Inns : Bellevue, handsome 
house, well managed and comfortable, 
travellers are taken en pension both in 
summer and winter; Grand H. du Lac, 
formerly H. des Alpes; both on the 
lake; H. du Lac, small but clean; 
Faucon ; H. du Commerce). The rail¬ 
way station is nearly 200 ft. above the 
new town. Those who go on foot may 
pass by a shady w r alk, avoiding the 
dusty road. This small town, finely 
placed on the borders of the lake which 
bears its name, has acquired a certain 
importance from the number of public 
institutions, several of which are con¬ 
nected with the names of its distin¬ 
guished inhabitants. The Gymnasium 
contains a Museum of Natural History, 
formed in great part by the activity of 
M. Agassiz, who long resided here. A 
Picture Gallery, in the Musee,contains 
some good specimens of the modern 
Swiss school. Private collections be¬ 
longing to Count Pourtales and M. 
Roullet de Mezerac are readily shown 
to amateurs. The new Observatory, the 
public Hospital founded by Pourtales, 
the Charitable Asylum of David Pury, 
who bequeathed 160,000/. to his native 
city, the Orphanage, and the Asylum 
for the Insane built near the town by 
M. de Meuron, are institutions worthy 
of a wealthy state, and do honour to 
the munificence and public spirit of the 
inhabitants. 

The Lake of Neucliatel (Germ., 
Neuenberger See), about 24 m. long, 
and from 4 to 6 m. in breadth, is 
1,427 ft. above the sea-level, and not 
more than 488 ft. deep. Its eastern 
shore is low and monotonous, and the 
scenery is far from rivalling that of 
the more famous Swiss lakes ; but 
w hen viewed from the N W. side, backed 
by the noble outline of the Bernese 
Alps which are everywhere visible 
from the slopes of the Jura, in clear 
weather even from the windows of the 
hotels in the town, it forms a beautiful 
picture. It is traversed twice daily by 
steamers, which go as far as Morat 


DIABLERETS DISTRICT. 

(Rte. K). The remains of lacustrine 
dwellings have been discovered at 
many places on the shore of the lake, 
especially near Concise, Cortaillod, and 
Estavayer. M. Desor, the well-known 
geologist, who has published an ac¬ 
count of these remains of an early 
race, possesses a valuable collection of 
these objects, which now attract so 
much the attention of geologists and 
antiquaries. 

Several agreeable excursions may 
be made from Neuchatel. To obtain 
views over the plain of Switzerland 
and the lakes of Neuchatel, Bienne, 
and Morat, it is sufficient to mount 
the slopes of the Jura by any of tho 
roads or paths that radiate from the 
town, but the point most frequently 
visited is the summit of the Chaumont 
(3,845'), reached on foot, or by a good 
carriage-road, in about 2 hrs. from 
the town. This is not properly a se¬ 
parate mountain, but rather the SW. 
end of a continuous terrace-like ridge 
that extends parallel to the lakes of 
Neuchatel and Bienne for a distance 
of 18 m., gradually rising towards 
the NE. to its highest point — the 
Chasseral (5,279') above Bienne. The 
view from the Chaumont extends from 
the Titlis to Mont Blane, and is es¬ 
pecially beautiful when the setting sun 
lights up the snowy chain after the 
low country is already plunged in twi¬ 
light. There is a large Pension, close 
to the top, said to be very well ma¬ 
naged. A path through the woods 
leading up to it, is not quite easily found. 

Among the shorter excursions from 
Neuchatel, that to the gorge of the 
Seyon, through which passes the road 
to Yallengin, may be recommended. 
The great works connected with the 
three railway lines that converge near 
the town, especially the viaduct of 
Serrieres, well deserve examination. 
There is a railway from Neuchatel to 
1 Chaux de Ponds and Locle, the chief 
seats of the Swiss watch manufacture. 
A day may be well spent in visiting 
those places and the remarkable works 
on the line. The entire ascent is about 







ROUTE A.-LAC DE JOUX. 


7 


1,700 ft., but the greater portion lies in 
the space between the town and the 
station of Hauls Geneveys, distant but 
3 or 9 m. in a direct line. The ascent 
is effected by a great zigzag, in which 
the direction of the train is twice re¬ 
versed. 

Chaux de Fends (Inns : Fleur de 
Lys ; H. de France ; Guillaume Tell; 
Balances) was not long ago a poor 
mountain village, 3,274 ft. above the 
sea, producing little beyond poor crops 
of barley which ripens with difficulty. 
The increase of the watch trade has 
brought extraordinary prosperity to this 
and the village of Lode (Inn: Trois 
Rois), 5 m. distant. They both of 
them now surpass in wealth and popu¬ 
lation most of the towns of the Swiss 
confederation. Chaux de Fonds in 
particular is remarkable for the air of 
comfort and even elegance which cha¬ 
racterises the dwellings of the people. 
Each artisan works at home, and pro¬ 
duces but a single part of the watch 
movement. The division of labour is 
carried so far, that it is said that 120 
men are employed in the production of 
each first-class repeater watch. 

The erratic blocks of gi'anite, and 
other crystalline rocks derived from the 
range of the Pennine Alps, which lie 
scattered on the eastern flanks of the 
Jura have attracted much of the atten¬ 
tion of geologists. According to some 
writers, the}' may be traced to a height 
of about 2,000 ft. above the level of the 
Lake of Neuchatel. The largest of 
these blocks, called Pierre a Bot, is 
about 2 m. from Neuchatel, on the rt. 
of the road to Yallengin. It measures 
62 ft. in length by 48 ft. in breadth, and 
lies 2,247 ft. above the sea, or 820 ft. 
above the lake. The only agency by 
which these blocks can have been borne 
to their present resting-place is that of 
ice, and the only difference now ex¬ 
isting on the subject amongst geo¬ 
logists is between those who believe 
in the former extension of the gla¬ 
cier of the Rhone to the flanks of 
the Jura, and those who hold that the 
plain of Switzerland may at the period 


in question have been covered with 
water, and the blocks conveyed from 
the valley of the Rhone on floating ice- 
rafts. 

The best wines of Switzerland are 
those grown on the slopes of the Jura. 
Those of Cortaillod, Neuchatel, and 
St. Blaise are especially esteemed. 

Passengers from Neuchatel to Lau¬ 
sanne, or Vevey, may take the steamer 
to Morat, go by char or omnibus to 
Fribourg, and thence by rly. (de¬ 
scribed in Rte. K). The usual and 
direct course is by rly. from Neuchatel. 
After passing Boudry and Concise, this 
traverses the famous battle-field of 
Grandson, where 20.000 Swiss utterly 
routed the Burgundian army of Charles 
the Bold, from 50,000 to 60,000 in 
number, and captured a prodigious 
booty left by their presumptuous enemy. 
The church of Grandson is one of the 
most curious of the early Christian 
churches of Switzerland. The mate¬ 
rials appear to have been taken in great 
part from the Roman buildings at 
Aventicum. Many remains of anti¬ 
quity have been found in this neigh¬ 
bourhood, some of them of Roman 
origin, others more ancient are com¬ 
monly ascribed to the druidical period. 
Beyond Grandson the rly. traverses a 
marshy tract, formed by the continual 
encroachment of the land upon the shal¬ 
low bed of the lake, before reaching 
Yverdnn (Inns: H. de Londres; Croix 
Federate), a small town of great anti¬ 
quity, the Eburodunum of the Romans 
(Germ., Yferten), remembered chiefly 
for the sake of Pestalozzi, who here 
laboured in the educational experi¬ 
ments to which he devoted his life. 

A pleasant excursion may be made 
to the Lac de Joux , lying in one of the 
most picturesque positions in the Jura 
range, at 3,310 ft. above the sea. It is 
best approached from Or be (Inn : G. 
Tell), once a residence of the Bur¬ 
gundian kings, distant about 7 m. from 
Yverdun,or 2 m. from the Chavornay 
station. The distance from Orbe to 
Le Pont (Inn : La Truite), at the N. 
end of the lake, is only 13 m., but the 




8 


BERNESE ALPS. § 22, 

diligence employs from 4 to 5 hrs. in 
the ascent. Above the lake are two of 
the highest summits of the Jura—the 
Mont Tendre (5,512'), and the Dent de 
Vaulion (4,877'). The NW. side of 
the latter mountain is cut away in a 
sheer precipice overhanging the valley 
of the Orbe. In addition to the pano¬ 
ramic view obtained from other points 
in the range, many of the peaks of the 
South Savoy Alps, and the higher sum¬ 
mits of the Pelvoux group in Dau- 
phine, may be discerned in clear 
weather. Some caution is requisite in 
wandering amongst these mountains. 
The limestone rocks abound in narrow 
fissures partially concealed by herb¬ 
age, and, what is still more dangerous, 
wells are dug to provide water for 
cattle, and imperfectly covered over 
to save it from evaporation. In one 
of these an English traveller was 
drowned in 1837. 

The rly. from Yverdun traverses a 
fertile country, amidst agreeable sce¬ 
nery which presents no object of much 
special interest. After passing the 
Chavornay station, the rlv. ascends a 
little, and having traversed two short 
tunnels enters the valley of the Venoge, 
through which it descends gently 
towards the Lake of Geneva. Near the 
Cossonay station the village of that 
name is seen picturesquely placed on 
a hill on the rt. bank of the stream, 
and about 4^ m. farther, at the Bus- 
signy junction station, the rly. joins the 
main line from Geneva to 

Lausanne (Inns: H. Gibbon; Fau- 
con; both good ; H. Bellevue, well situ¬ 
ated, quiet, and reasonable ; H. Riche¬ 
mont, near the rly. station, well spoken 
of; H. and Pension Belvedere, well 
situated; H. du Grand Pont, commer¬ 
cial). This town, and the road by 
Yevey and Villeneuve to Aigle, are 
described in § 18, Rte. A, of this work. 
Brief notes of the points most inte¬ 
resting to travellers are here inserted. 

Objects of interest at Lausanne: —Ca¬ 
thedral; Musee Arlaud, good collection 
of Swiss pictures; Musee Cantonal, 
public library. 


DIABLERETS DISTRICT. 

At Ouc/iy , m. from the town 

(Inns: Beaurivage, first-rate in all re¬ 
spects ; H. de l’Ancre, second-rate; 
Pension Bachoffner, good), is the port 
of call for the lake steamers. 

The Signal, 2 m. from the town, on 
the slope of Mont Jorat, commands a 
fine view of the lake—not, however, 
extending to Mont Blanc. 

The road from Lausanne to Fri¬ 
bourg is described in Rte. K. 

Vet'ey (Inns : Grand Hotel, 5 - m. from 
the town on W. side, very large, first- 
rate ; Trois Couronnes, very good, not 
dear; H. du Lac, new house, good ; H. 
Senn; H. Leman; all on the lake, 
commanding beautiful views; Trois 
Rois ; Faucon •, both fair and cheap ; 
Croix Federate ; Poste). The church 
of St. Martin is worth a visit. The 
road from Yevey to Fribourg is de¬ 
scribed in Rte. I, that to Thun in Rte. G. 

Mcntreux. The path by the Dent 
de Jaman to Chateau d’Oex is de¬ 
scribed in Rte. H. Near the Vernex 
station is the Hotel de Montreux, well 
kept by Mdlle. Loring, and the H. du 
Cygne. 2 m. beyond Vernex is the 
Castle of Chillon, interesting from its 
beautiful position, and the associations 
connected with it. 

Villeneuve (Inns: H. du Port, clean 
and reasonable ; Aigle Noir), at the end 
of the lake, the port for the steamers. 
Close at hand is the large Hotel Byron, 
in a fine situation, good and reason¬ 
able. 

Aigle (Inns: Beausite, close to the 
station, new and good; H. du Midi; II. 
Victoria). Here travellers bound for 
the Val des Ormonds leave the rail¬ 
way. 

Aigle is connected with the district 
called Les Ormonds by a narrow glen 
traversed by La Grande Eau, a rapid 
torrent that drains the upper valley. 
Through this glen an excellent road as 
far as Sepey has been open for many 
years to Chateau d’Oex (Rte. B). 
The new part of the road between 
Sepey and the latter village is now 
open for traffic. This has shorten¬ 
ed by nearly 40 miles the dis- 




ROUTE A.—YAL DES ORMONDS. 


tance by carriage-road from Thun to 
Bex, and all parts of the Canton Va¬ 
lais. The road from Aigle to Sepey 
along the steep N. slope of the valley 
of the Grande Eau, involving an ascent 
of more than 2,000 ft. in 7^ m.. is a 
creditable piece of engineering, and the 
scenery, which is best seen in descend¬ 
ing the valley, with the Dent du Midi 
in the background, and the Dent de 
Chamossaire rising on the opposite side 
of the deep ravine, is striking. I 

Sepey (Inns : H. des Alpes, good; H. 
de-Ville, rough, cheap for persons re¬ 
maining en pension) is the chief village 
of the district, and sometimes called 
Ormond Dessous. The glen of the 
Grande Eau here widens out into a 
broad pastoral valley, whose brilliant 
green slopes are belted round by the 
forests that occupy the middle region 
of the surrounding mountains. The 
Val des Ormonds , as the district is 
commonly called, is inhabited by an 
active race of mountaineers, famed as 
rifle-shots. The agreeable scenery of 
the main valley, rising to grandeur 
towards its head, the beauty of the 
Alpine views obtained from the sur¬ 
rounding summits, and the numerous 
inns and pensions affording fairly good 
accommodation at moderate rates, make 
this an eligible halting-place for those 
who would pass some time in this part 
of the Alps. Sepey is much inferior 
in attractions to the places lying higher 
up in the valley, but is the most con¬ 
venient starting-point for the ascent 
of the Tour d'Ay (7,818'J, or the 
Tour de Mayen (7,622'). The latter, 
though somewhat lower, commands 
a more extensive view of the Lake of 
Geneva, 

[Rather more than 3 m. above Sepey, 
on the new road from Chateau d’Oex, 
after passing the ruins of the Castle of 
Aigremont, is Comballaz( 4,416'), where 
good accommodation at very reason¬ 
able prices is found at the Pension 
Roch (charges, 5 fr. a day without 
wine; children 2^ fr.; servants, includ¬ 
ing wine, 4 fr.)." The landlord keeps 
ponies for mountain excursions. Of 


Q 

KJ 

these the most frequently made is 
to the mountain lake of Lioson, 
6,135 ft. above the sea. The Pic de 
Chaussy (7,799'), immediately over the 
lake, may be reached in little more 
than 1 hr., and rewards the ascent by 
a noble view of the Diablerets group. 
The Pension Roch is not a very con¬ 
venient stopping-place for passing tra¬ 
vellers, as it is hard to obtain food 
except at fixed hours.] 

The ascent to the head of the Val 
des Ormonds is made from Sepey by a 
rough char-road on the rt. bank of the 
Grande Eau. The road passes oppo¬ 
site the village of L’Eglise with a 
country inn, and about 7 m. above 
Sepey comes to an end at 

Ormond Dess us, also called Plan des 
lies , an open tract of pasture with 
many scattered groups of houses, sur¬ 
rounded by high mountains. Here, 
at 3,832 ft. above the sea, a very 
good hotel and pension (H. des Dia¬ 
blerets) has been opened within the 
last few years. Near it is another small 
and very cheap inn, Au Chamois. 
Though at times rather hot, this affords 
the best head-quarters for a traveller 
wishing to explore this portion of 
the Alpine chain, and to enjoy at 
his ease the pure air and beautiful 
scenery of the neighbourhood. Seen 
from the N. side, the Diablerets present 
a very different aspect from that which 
they present towards the S., where 
they rise in formidable precipices 
above the path of the Col de Cheville 
(Rte. D). Beyond Les lies, and 
less than 1 hr. distant, the Eau Noire 
is seen to issue from a vast amphi¬ 
theatre called Creux de Champs, formed 
by steep precipices of limestone, sur¬ 
mounted by snowfieids and glaciers 
that are drained by streams that fall 
down the face of the rock. But few 
spots can be named in the Alps that so 
much resemble the characteristic cirques 
of the Pyrenees. 

The annexed woodcut (from M. 
Ulrich) gives a correct representation 
of the chief peaks visible from Ormond 
Dessus. The dotted line shows the 




10 BERNESE ALPS. § 22. DIABLERETS DISTRICT. 



THE DIABLERETS. 


direction taken by that gentleman in 
his ascent of the Diablerets. 

The excursion most commonly made 
from Ormond Dessus is the ascent of the 
Chamossaire( 6,932'), the highest point 
of the ridge separating the valley of 
the Eau Noire from that of the 
Grionne leading to Bex. The sum¬ 
mit is as easily reached from Sepey 
or Comballaz, and is accessible to 
ladies and moderate walkers. There 
are two paths ; by the longer one vi¬ 
sitors may ride for 3 hrs. from the Hotel 
des Diablerets, leaving the horses at 
some chalets close to a little lake. 
Thence £ hr. or ^ hr. suffices to reach 
the top. The range of Mont Blanc 
forms the most striking object in the 
view from this as well as all the other 
summits in this district. 

The ascent of the Diablerets (10 ,666') 
was effected from this side in 1850, 
by MM. Ulrich, G. Studer, and Sieg¬ 
fried, and is described in the second 
series of ‘ Berg- und Gletscher-Fahrten.’ 
The summit has been frequently reached 
from the NE. side by the Sanfleuron 
Glacier (Rte. E), and of late years 
from Anzeindaz (Rte. D). The way 
from Ormond Dessus by the Creux de 
Champs is probably the most interest¬ 
ing, but also the most difficult. M. 


Ulrich describes a portion of the as¬ 
cent, in passing from the higher 
Rocher de Culand to the main mass 
of the mountain, as somewhat danger¬ 
ous from the steepness of the ice-slope 
that has to be surmounted. The ex¬ 
pedition is evidently one that requires 
some training, good guides, and the 
use of the rope and ice-axe. It would 
be expedient to sleep at the highest 
chalets at the base of the Rocher de 
Culand, li hr. from Les lies, as the 
distance to be traversed is consider¬ 
able. 

The highest peak, sometimes called 
La Grosse Tete des Diablerets, which 
is but imperfectly seen from Plan 
des lies, immediately overhangs, at. a 
height of nearly 6,000 ft., the Lake 
of Derborence (Rte. D). It affords 
probably the finest panoramic view of 
the chain of the Pennine Alps from the 
N. side, corresponding in many re¬ 
spects with that from Mont Emilius 
(§ 14). The greater part of the view 
from the Diablerets may be gained, 
with no other difficulty than a scramble 
up a steep rocky chimney called 
Borne de Culand, by ascending the W. 
or lower of the two summits called 
Rockers de Culand. This, which is 
9,185 ft. in height, may be reached in 














ROUTE B.-VAL DE P.ELLEGARDE. 


11 


about 5 hrs. from the Hotel des Dia- 
blerets. 

The limestone of the Diablerets 
abounds in nummulitic fossils. 

The routes from Ormond Dessus to 
Saanen and to Bex are described in 
this section. (See Rtes. C and F.) 

The N. summit of the Diablerets 
group, the Oldenhorn (Fr. Becca d'Au¬ 
den}, attains 10,250 ft. The summit 
may be reached in 6 or 7 hrs. from 
Ormond Dessus by the Chalets d’Au- 
don, lying in an alpine glen of the 
same name. (See Rte. E.) 

Of the other excursions from Ormond 
Dessus, the most interesting is the as¬ 
cent of the Tete duMoine (7,713'). It 
lies about due N. of the hotel, and is 
easily reached in 3^ hrs. The view on 
a clear day is of the highest order. 

Route B. 

ORMOND DESSUS TO CHATEAU D’OEX 
AND BULLE. 

5 hrs. to Chateau d’Oex. Thence to Rulle, 6 
leagues by carriage-rd., 1 \ hrs. by Charmey. 

The most direct and interesting way 
from the Val des Ormonds to Fribourg 
and Berne is by Chateau d’Oex. Dili¬ 
gences run twice daily by the new and 
picturesque carriage-road by Combal- 
laz in hrs. from Aigle to Chateau 
d’Oex. Starting from Plan des Isles, 
the traveller descends the valley as far 
as Comballaz (Rte. A), about 6 m. dis¬ 
tant by mule-path. To reach that place 
by carriage it is necessary to return 
near to Sepey, and then ascend by the 
new road. The way then lies nearly due 
N., and in about 2 m. reaches the 
hamlet of Mosses, lying on the plateau 
which separates the Val des Ormonds 
from the valley of the Hongrin, the 
stream which drains the mountain lake 
of Lioson. More than a mile farther is 
the solitary and poor inn of Lecherette 
(4,519'), whence a path leads in 4 hrs. 
by the Col de Chaude to Villeneuve 
(Rte. H). The way from Lecherette 
to Chateau d’Oex quits the valley of 
the Hongrin, and traverses pastures to 


a low col overlooking the pretty valley 
of Etivuz, where a mineral spring of 
sulphureous water supplies baths ot 
some local celebrity. A rather rapid 
descent through that valley leads to 
the hamlet of Moulins, on the high 
road, about l£ m. from Chateau d'Oex 
(Inns: H. Berthod, well situated; 
Ours ; Maison de Ville ; and several 
pensions ), a small town on the rt. bank 
of the Sarine, on the road from Thun 
to Vevey, 3,261 ft. above the sea. 

Those who intend to follow the 
high road to Bulle, described in 
Rte. G, may avoid Chateau d’Oex, 
turning to the 1. at Moulins, and 
following the road to Montbovon; 
but a pedestrian, desiring to see some¬ 
thing of the unfrequented valleys of 
this part of Switzerland, may with 
advantage take a somewhat longer 
route, passing by Charmey. For this 
purpose he should follow the road 
to Saanen for 3 m. from Chateau 
d’Oex as far as the hamlet of Flen- 
dru, whence a path leads north¬ 
ward through a lateral glen to the 
Col de Phitisma (5,010'), and thence 
to the valley of the Jogne (Germ. 
Jaun), whose numerous and thriving 
population produce the finest quality 
of Gruyeres cheese. The chief com¬ 
mune, called Charmey, consists ot 
3 hamlets, the largest of which—■ 
Fedieres ^2,956')—is about 4 hrs.’ walk 
from Flendru. By a detour, for which 
the assistance of a guide is indispen¬ 
sable, the naturalist may on his way to 
Charmey visit Morteys, a hollow basin 
in the limestone rocks at the S. base of 
the Dent de Branleire, (7,743'), one of 
the highest of the Fribourg Alps. This 
spot is full of interest to the botanist, 
the entomologist, and the geologist. 

The dialects spoken in this part of 
the Canton Fribourg have attracted 
the attention of philologists. In the 
valley of the Sarine the patois is akin 
to the Romansch spoken in the Gri- 
sons, while Swiss antiquaries hold 
that the population of the valley of 
the Jogne (also called Val de Belle- 
garde) is of Scandinavian origin. This 





12 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§ 22. DIABLERETS DISTRICT. 


valley and Its affluents contain much 
pleasing scenery, little known in Swit¬ 
zerland, and scarcely ever seen by a 
foreigner. A lover of retirement, who 
could content himself with country 
fare, might spend, with satisfaction, 
several weeks in exploring the neigh¬ 
bourhood. 

[About 2 hrs. above Charmey is 
the village of Jaun (Fr. Bellegarde), 
(3,324'), with an inn—lm Hof—and the 
remains of a mediaeval castle, near to a 
pretty cascade 200 ft. in height. Half 
an hour farther the valley turns ab¬ 
ruptly to the S., while a path mount¬ 
ing to the E. leads in 4 hrs. through a 
singular cleft in the mountain, called 
Klus, to Boltigen in the Simmenthal. 
Another path ascends through the 
valley to Abldntschen (4,275'), the 
highest village. Thence to Zweis- 
immen by the pass of the Schliindi 
(5,610') is a walk of 3| hrs., or to 
Saanen by the Laucheren (5,883') about 
3 hrs.] 

The mule-path from Charmey joins 
the char-road leading from Val Sainte 
(Rte. L)to Bulle, at Cresuz, f hr. from 
Fedieres. Bulle may be reached in 
If hr. farther, passing Mont. Salvens, 
whose castle commands a fine view, 
and crossing the Sarine f hr. below 
Tour de Tretne, where the traveller 
rejoins the high road from Thun to 
Vevey. 


Route C. 

ORMOND DESSUS TO BEX. 

Distance, about 5 hrs. 

An easy ascent of 1 hr. leads from 
the Hotel des Diablerets (Rte. A) 
to the Col de la Croix (5,705'), com¬ 
manding a fine view of the Val des 
Ormonds and the Diablerets on the 
one side, and on the other of the 
valley of the Grionne that leads down 
to the Rhone, with the Val d’Hliez, 
backed by the Dent du Midi in the 


background. It is possible to choose 
between a path on the 1. side of the 
valley, passing Taveyannaz and Grion 
(Rte. D), and another on the rt. side, 
along the ridge whose highest peak is 
the Chamossaire, by the village of 
Arveyes. The valley of the Grionne 
abounds in pensions, where many Swiss 
visitors enjoy pure air and fine scenery 
at very moderate rates. One of those 
most recommended is the Chalet de 
Villard, kept by M. Roux, a retired 
officer. It commands a beautiful view, 
and is within 2 hrs. of the summit ot 
the Chamossaire, and 3 hrs. from Plan 
des lies. The accommodation is some¬ 
what rustic, but tolerably good; charge, 
en pension, 4f fr. a day. 

Bex (Inns : Grand H. des Salines, 
with baths ; Union ; H. des Bains)is no¬ 
ticed in § 20, Rte. A. Much frequented 
by invalids for the sake of the baths. 

[The Editor has been favoured, by M. 
de la Harpe, of Lausanne, with notes of 
two expeditions of high interest, though 
very rarely undertaken by strangers. 
Owing to the low level at which the 
village stands, either ascent from 
Bex is long and laborious, and it is 
a better plan to sleep at some of the 
higher chalets. A guide well ac¬ 
quainted with the ground is indis¬ 
pensable, especially for the Dent de 
Morcles. 

The Grand Moveran (10,043') is 
most conveniently approached from 
the W. side, by the Chdlets de Nant 
above Bex. You mount thence direct 
to the Frete de Saille, a col traversing 
the ridge between the Grand and Petit 
Moveran. It is necessary to descend 
a short way on the opposite side, in 
order to attack the summit from the 
E. side. This is reached by climbing 
over rocks and steep slopes of debris. 

The Dent de Morcles (9,639'), though 
a little lower, offers a still finer view 
than the Moveran, and one that must 
be counted among the grandest and 
most varied in the whole range of the 
Alps. Three different ways, joining 
each other below the summit, are of¬ 
fered to the choice of the mountaineer. * 





ROUTE D.—BEX TO SION. 


13 


Each of them offers attractions of its 
own, hut the most agreeable is to 
mount from Bex by Frenieres to Les 
Plans (about 2^ hrs.), where there are 
several pensions, at which lodging may 
be had for the night. A steep path, 
through a picturesque glen, leads up to 
the Glacier dc Martinet, lying close 
under the precipitous W. face of the 
peak. The summit of this small gla¬ 
cier, reached in 4 hrs. from Les Plans, 
commands a noble view of the Lake of 
Geneva, and a part of the range of the 
Pennine Alps. The traveller now 
enters upon the Grand-vire, a remark¬ 
able channel in the rock, cut into the 
S. base of the Dent de Morcles, and 
affording the only means of access to 
the summit. It takes nearly 2 hrs. to 
traverse the Grand-vire, and 1 hr. more 
to reach the higher of the two rocky 
teeth forming the summit of the moun¬ 
tain. The climb is steep, but with a 
steady head and a competent guide 
there is no danger. Fully 7 hrs., ex¬ 
clusive of halts, are required for the 
ascent from Les Plans. 

Another way is to mount from the 
Baths of Lavey (§ 18, Rte. A) by the 
hamlet of Morcles to the chalets of 
Haut de Morcles, reached in 4 hrs. A 
steep ascent, keeping well to the E., 
now leads in or 3 hrs. to the Grand- 
vire, which is entered at a point higher 
up, and farther E., than w'hen it is ap¬ 
proached from the Glacier of Martinet. 
In 2 hrs. more the summit is gained. 

A third way, especially interesting 
to botanists, is from the village of 
Fouly, on the rt. bank of the Rhone, 
near Martigny. A rather long but 
easy ascent leads to the Chalets 
de Fouly, standing near two small 
lakes, a locality famous for rare plants. 
From hence there is no difficulty in 
joining the way from Lavey and Mor¬ 
cles below the point where it enters 
the channel of the Grand-vire.] 


Route D. 


BEX TO SION, BY THE COL DE CHE- 
VILLE. 



Hrs.’ 

English 


walking 

miles 

Grinn (by road) . 

• 11 

5 

Sous-la-Lex (by foot-path') If 

4.4 

Anzeindaz . 

. 1 

A 

Col de Cheville . 

i 

2 

H 

Derborence 

! f J 

n 

Chapelle de St. Bernard 

•)i 

f)f 

Sion .... 

’. '2 

6 


104 

28 


New road to Grion; thence, mule-path. 
Charge for a horse, 20 fr.; for a guide, 
from 12 to 15 fr. The distance being 
rather considerable, some travellers 
sleep at Grion, or else hire a vehicle 
from Bex to that village ; charge, 8 fr. 
This is, in great part, a very interest¬ 
ing pass, but the descent from Derbo- 
rence towards Sion is long and com¬ 
paratively duli. Some travellers prefer 
to make an excursion to the summit of 
the Col and return to Bex, whence 
Sion may be reached by railway in 
about an hour and a half, starting at 
8.35 p.m. In this case they lose one 
of the most striking scenes if they omit 
to descend on the E. side of the Col as 
far as the Lac de Derborence. 

There is a good road from Bex as 
far as 

Grion (Inns: Croix Blanche; Pen¬ 
sion Saulet ; both tolerably good, 
homely, and cheap). ‘ A mule may 
be hired here as far as the Col for 
7 fr., with 1 fr. bonnemain.’—[M.] 
Above Grion the path, which for some 
distance is practicable for rough coun¬ 
try chars, ascends very gradually along 
the N. slope of the valley of the Aven- 
gon. The way lies amid green pas¬ 
tures, broken here and there by clumps 
of pines, with frequent views of the 
imposing precipices of the Diablerets 
and the Moveran, or in the opposite 
direction across the Valley of the 
Rhone to the Savoy Alps. After about 
1 hr. the track crosses the Avenyon, 
and begins to ascend more steeply 
through a pine forest, above which it 
returns to the rt. bank of the stream, 





14 


BERNESE ALPS. § 22 

and reaches the beautifully-situated 
chalets of Sous-lci-Lc.r. Bearing a 
little to the 1., the way now lies through 
a narrow ravine, and after a steep as¬ 
cent of about 1,400 ft., attains the 
chalets of Anzeindaz (6,224'), the high¬ 
est on this side of the Col. The Alpine 
pastures above these chalets and the 
stony slopes at the base of the Dia- 
blerets are extraordinarily l^cli in rare 
plants. The botanist may find tole¬ 
rable night-quarters in one of the 
chalets, but he should take provisions, 
as little food is to be found here. Ra¬ 
nunculus pyrenceus , Viola cenisia , Crepis 
pygmcea, Hieracium breviscapum, and 

H. speciosum, are amongst the rarities 
of this locality. The geologist may 
find many fossils of the Gault period. 
From these chalets the highest peak of 
the Diablerets (Rte. A) may be reached 
by a rather difficult climb of 3^ hrs. 
After mounting over steep debris to 
the foot of the precipitous rocks form¬ 
ing the peak, it is necessary to bear to 
the W., and continue the ascent by 
the clefts and ledges of the calcareous 
rock. The descent requires much 
steadiness, and a good guide is neces- 
sarv. 

V 

A gentle slope of alpine pasture 
leads in ^ hr. from the chfilets to the 
summit of the Col de Cheville (6,680'), 
and from a slight eminence to the rt. 
the traveller may gain a fine view to 
the E., extending to the Monte Leone, 
and of the precipices of the Moveran 
to the S. The descent on the E. side 
of the Col lies down a steep rocky 
slope, first to the rt. and then to the 

I . , the track being ill-marked till it 
reaches the Chalets de Cheville (5,722'). 
The path, which now lies in the terri¬ 
tory of the Canton Valais, descends 
steeply through stunted pines, bearing 
to the rt. till it reaches the chalets of 
Derborence (4,711'), close to a little 
lake bearing the same name. This 
lake was formed by one of the falls 
of the Diablerets, two of which are 
amongst the most remarkable cata¬ 
strophes of which an authentic record 
has been preserved. The first berg- 


. DIABLERETS DISTRICT. 

fall occurred in 1714. A huge mass 
of the mountain, after giving warning 
by loud subterraneous groanings con¬ 
tinued for two days, fell with a terrific 
crash, destroying 55 chalets, and what¬ 
ever men and cattle had not been re¬ 
moved to a distance. The story of the 
one survivor who worked his way out, 
after three months’ interment under 
the mass of rocks that had but partially 
crushed his chalet, and of his being 
taken for a ghost by his friends on his 
reappearance in the valley below during 
the following winter, is familiar to most 
readers of alpine literature. Warned 
by the experience of their fathers, the 
herdsmen made haste to retreat with 
their cattle, when, in 1749, new threats 
were heard to issue from the mountain. 
Only five Bernese, working at a saw¬ 
mill two leagues lower down in the 
valley, failed to retreat in time, think¬ 
ing themselves secure at so great a 
distance. The bergfall came, covering 
a square league of country with its 
ruins, and scattering blocks far and 
wide. Under some of these the five 
men, who were never heard of again, 
must have met their fate. 

For several miles from Derborence 
the path winds amongst the fragments 
of rock that cover the upper part of 
the valley. About f hr. from the lake 
the track crosses the Lizerne , and 
is thenceforward carried along the 
1 . bank of that stream, at first fol¬ 
lowing its course, and then gradually 
rising, while the torrent descends 
through a deep and narrow ravine. 
Here the track is carried for 2 m. 
along a mere ledge, sometimes arti¬ 
ficially hollowed into the rock, some¬ 
times supported by masonry overhang¬ 
ing the precipice, which in some places 
is more than 1,200 ft. in depth. From 
the narrow valley, enclosed between 
high mountains, whose dominant peaks 
are the Haut de Cry (9,698') on the 
W., and La Fava (8,589') on the E., 
glimpses of the surrounding scenery 
are obtained from time to time, but it 
is not until after traversing a fine 
beech wood, and reaching the little 





ROUTE E.—SANFLEURGN GLACIER. 


chapel of St. Bernard, that the traveller 
gains an extensive view over the valley 
of the Rhone, and the range of the 
Pennine Alps. Less than a mile 
farther is the village of Avent. The 
slopes leading down to the valley of the 
Rhone are very hot in the daytime, 
though trees give some shade from the 
sun. Rather more than 3 m. from 
Avent the high road of the Simplon is 
reached, close to the bridge over the 
Morge, 2 m. W. of Sion (Inns: Poste ; 
Lion d’Or; both good), described in 
§21, Rte. A. In fine weather, persons 
used to mountain walking do not re¬ 
quire a guide for this route, hut the 
way is not always easily traced on the 
E. side of the pass, and there is not a 
house between Derborence and Avent, 
so that it would be imprudent to go 
without one in unsettled weather. 

Route E. 

SION TO SAANEN. 

The most direct way from Sion to 
Saanen and the Simmenthal is by the 
Sanetsch Pass; this is passable for 
mules, and in fine weather the moun¬ 
taineer may go without a guide. The 
Gelten Pass is far less easy of access, 
involving glacier and rock difficulties, 
and requires good guides, who are not 
easily to be found. 

1 . By the Sanetsch Pass. 



Hrs.’ 

English 


walking 

miles 

Pont Neuf . 

. 2i 

6 

Sanetsch Pass 

3 


Gsteig . 

. 3* 

H 

Saanen . . 

3 

9 


ITi 

HI 

Mule-path from 

Sion to 

Gsteig; 

char-road thence to 

Saanen. 

It is a 


long day's walk to or from Saanen, but 
a char may be taken between that 
place and Gsteig—price, 8 fr. To see 
the scenery to the best advantage, this 
pass should be taken from the N. side ; 
but as the same remark applies to most 
of the passes leading from the Canton 
Berne into the Valais, it is not always 


35 

possible to arrange the route in the 
best way to suit each pass. 

For about 4 m. from Sion the way to 
the Sanetsch lies amidst vineyards and 
narrow lanes, and it is easy to take a 
wrong turn in ascending. After pass¬ 
ing Ormona, a hamlet buried amid 
walnut-trees, the way mounts to Gra- 
nois, and redescends to Chandolm, the 
last village on this side of the pass, 
beyond which the traveller cannot 
count on finding bread or wine till he 
reaches Gsteig, 7^ hrs. distant. Soon 
after leaving the village the path 
reaches a small chapel, commanding 
a view of the valley of Nendaz, on the 
opposite side of the Rhone, and then 
enters the ravine through which the 
Morge descends from the Sanetsch 
Pass. The slaty rocks hereabouts have 
been extensively eaten away by the 
action of the elements, leaving here 
and there projecting shattered masses, 
which produce a fine effect when seen 
through the pine forest. About 1 hr. 
above Chandolin a solid stone bridge, 
called Pont Nenf is thrown over the 
Morge at a great height above the 
stream. The way lies now for some 
time along the rt. bank. To the rt. is 
seen a wild glen, leading to the Gelten 
Pass (see below). After returning to 
the 1. bank of the Morge the track 
passes two groups of chalets, and then 
by a steep ascent in zigzags reaches 
the Savjleuron chalets (6,785'), the 
highest in the valley, commanding a 
fine view over the opposite ranges S. 
of the Rhone. A hay bed and the 
usual chalet fare may be found here by 
travellers wishing to make the ascent 
of the JDiablerets (10,666') or the 01- 
denhorn (10,250'). Both of them are 
moderately easy of access by the San- 
fleuron Glacier, which descends to the 
E. and terminates near the top of the 
pass, about £ hr. above the chalets. 
The middle region of the glacier is a 
good deal crevassed, but seems to offer 
no serious difficulties. The Diablerets 
is decidedly better situated for a pano¬ 
ramic view than the Oldenhorn. Mr. 
Hinchliff has given, in the first series 





1(3 BERNESE ALPS. § 22. 

of ‘ Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,’ an 
account of an ascent of the latter peak 
hy a nearly direct course from Gsteig. 
On that occasion, as well as in the 
ascent of the Diablerets, recounted by 
M. Ulrich, the descent was effected by 
the Sanfleuron Glacier. 

It is said that a pass may be made 
across the glaciers on the W. side of 
the Arbelhorn direct to Lauenen, hut 
no such pass seems to be known in the 
valley of Lauenen. 

The Sanetsch Pass (7,369'), marked 
by a cross, and therefore called Kreuz- 
boden, is little more than £ hr. above 
the chalets. The summit forms a 
nearly level plateau, or trough-shaped 
depression in the chain, three or four 
miles in length, whereon patches of 
snow often remain throughout the sum¬ 
mer. The pass lies between the Arbel- 
horn (9,980') on the E., and the Sa- 
netschhorn (9,679'), which intervenes 
between it and the Oldenhorn on the 
W. On reaching the N. verge of the 
plateau of Kreuzboden it is necessary 
to bear to the rt. or NE., when the 
traveller suddenly gains a fine view 
over the Gsteig Thai and the course of 
the Sarine. hr. fully suffices for the 
descent, but hrs. are required to 
reach this point from Gsteig. The 
path is carried down steep faces of 
rock, being partly excavated and partly 
sustained by masonry, somewhat after 
the fashion of that of the Gemmi, save 
that it is not nearly so well kept. Be¬ 
low the base of the rocks, and about 2 
m. from Gsteig, there is a very fine 
waterfall of the Sarine, a few hundred 
yards from the path, and well deserving 
a visit. Those intending to pass the 
Chrinnen Furke to Lauenen (see be¬ 
low) may turn aside near the waterfall, 
and, mounting by a path to the rt., will 
join the track from Gsteig near the 
summit of the pass. 

Gsteig (Inn: Biir, rough, dirty, and 
dear, only two beds in one room)—the 
French name is Chatelet, but German 
is the language of this and the adjoin¬ 
ing valley of Lauenen—is a scattered 
village about 3,940 ft. above the sea, 


DIABLERETS DISTRICT. 

on the 1. bank of the Sarine, finely si¬ 
tuated in the midst of pastures and pine 
forest, surmounted by the precipitous 
faces of the surrounding limestone 
peaks. There is a very good char- 
road down the valley, a distance of 9 
m., to Saanen. About half-way is the 
opening of the lateral valley of Ar- 
nen (Rte. F), and a little farther a 
bridge over the Sarine, by which the 
road crosses to the 1. bank, and de¬ 
scends to 

Saanen —Fr. Gessenay (Inns : Gross- 
landhaus, clean and reasonable ; Ours), 
on the high road from Thun to Vevey. 
(See Rte. G.) 

2 . By the Gelten Pass. On the old 
maps, and in local works on the topo¬ 
graphy of Switzerland, a pass is laid 
down between Sion and Lauenen in 
the Canton Berne, lying between the 
peaks of the Arbelhorn and the Wild- 
horn, in the depression occupied by the 
Gelten Glacier. The pass, if it ever 
was frequented, had become unknown, 
and even lost to local tradition, when 
MM. G. Studer and Ulrich effected 
a passage from the N. side in 1852, and 
descended by the valley of the Morge 
to join the track from the Sanetsch 
Pass. Again, in 1858, the first-named 
traveller, with two companions, com¬ 
pleted the passage by what appears to 
have been the ancient course, descend¬ 
ing on the S. side by the Sionne valley, 
which opens into the valley of the 
Rhone at Sion. This route trenches 
upon the portion of the Bernese Alps 
described in the following section, but 
as it leads directly between Sion and 
Saanen it could not conveniently be 
inserted elsewhere than here. The 
pass may much better be attempted 
from the N. side than from Sion. The 
descent of the rocks above the Rothe 
Thai, especially to persons not well 
acquainted with the way, might be a 
matter of difficulty and even danger. 
In the following brief notice the tra¬ 
veller is supposed to start from SaaneD. 
A char- road leads from Saanen through 
a narrow and very picturesque glen 
6 m. in length to the pretty village of 





ROoTL E.— GELTEN TASS. 


17 


Lauenen (Inn: Bar, rustic, but clean 
and not uncomfortable), beautifully si¬ 
tuated at a height of 4,134 ft., in the 
midst of an amphitheatre of high peaks. 
In 1852 M. Studer found a good guide 
here in the person of Christian Brand, 
and in 1858 another, equally active, 
but not quite so judicious, in Johann 
Peter Wiirsten. The distance to Sion 
being from 12 hrs. to 13 hrs,, exclusive 
of halts, it is expedient either to sleep 
at the Gelten chalets, or to start from 
Lauenen some time before daylight. 
The head of the valley above Lauenen 
is enclosed between steep walls of rock, 
above which are gentler slopes that 
lead up to the snow-fields, and to the 
extensive Gelten Glacier, which fills 
the background in the view towards 
the S. The best way to reach the gla¬ 
cier is by mounting the slopes to the 
E.,and then bearing S., above the wall of 
rock that overlooks the bottom of the 
valley. 1 f hr. are required to reach 
the Kiihdungel Alp, a group of cha- 
lets near which a torrent descend¬ 
ing from the glacier shoots over the 
edge of the precipice into the valley 
below. The cascade is called JJunyel- 
n.huss. The path is thence carried 
along limestone ledges, and in one 
place, called Geltentritt, a ladder fixed 
to the rock enables the herdsmen to 
reach the uppermost pasture and cha¬ 
lets of the Gelten Alp, about 2^- hrs. 
from Lauenen. There is another way, 
rather easier, but ^ hr. longer, which 
keeps to the bottom of the valley till 
under the Gelten Alp, to which the 
ascent, is effected by the rt. bank of the 
Geltenbach. This way passes near to 
a finely situated Alpine lake, the Lau¬ 
enen See . M. Studer strongly advises 
travellers who may not attempt any 
more adventurous expedition to make 
the excursion from Lauenen to the 
Gelten Alp and Rothe Thai by the 
Kiihdungel Alp, returning by the Lau¬ 
enen See—in all about 7 hrs.’ walk. 

In less than l hr. from the Gelten 
Alp the traveller reaches the Rothe 
Thai, a remarkable hollow in the midst 
of the wildest imaginable scenery. In 

PART II. 


aliusion to a vague superstition which 
makes it the home of troubled spirits, 
it is also called by the herdsmen, 
Gspenster Thai. This hollow is the 
fillcd-up bed of a small lake, surrounded 
by nearly vertical precipices of a red¬ 
dish colour, which are surmounted by 
towers and pinnacles of ice, forming 
the lower edge of the Gelten Glacier. 
The precipices surrounding the Rothe 
Thai on the E. and SE. sides are fully 
1.000 ft. in height, and. the constant 
fall of blocks of stone or ice makes it 
unsafe even to approach their base. 
Towards the SW., however, the rocks 
are less lofty, and a branch of the Gel¬ 
ten Glacier descends in a steep ice-fall 
nearly to the level of the Rothe Thai. 
It may be possible, though far from 
easy, to ascend by this ice-fall, and so 
reach the upper level ot the glacier, 
but another way is taken by the cha¬ 
mois hunters, who are usually far more 
skilful as cragsmen than upon the ice. 
The rocks on the E. side of the hollow 
form the base of the Hahnensc.hritthom 
(9,319'). This is a promontory pro¬ 
jecting northwards from the Wild- 
horn (10,722'), the highest summit 
of this group (see § 23). Towards 
its northern end, on the extreme lett 
of the traveller, looking up the Rothe 
Thai, the range of rocks becomes 
less steep, and though apparently in¬ 
accessible when viewed from a dis¬ 
tance, may be scaled without danger 
by a steady climber. On attaining the 
summit of these rocks it is necessary 
to pass along a steep slope of compact 
debris, traversed by streams which cut 
deep furrows in its face, along the top 
of the precipices of the Rothe Thai. 
This passage is called Hahnenschritt by 
the few chamois hunters who come so 
far in search of game. The ascent is 
continued by the slopes that flank the 
Gelten Glacier and by the moraine, 
until the ice is finally attacked at a 
high level, from whence gentle snow- 
slopes, broken by few crevasses, lead in 
about 1 hr. to the Gelten Pass (9,285'), 
lying immediately W. of the Wildhoru, 
and commanding a view of the Pennine 







18 BERNESE ALPS. § 22. 

Alps, in which the Mont Blanc de 
Cheillon, the Rouinette, and the Grand 
Combin, are the most conspicuous 
peaks. In the ascent is seen a de¬ 
pression in the ridge connecting the 
peak of the Wildhorn with the Hahnen- 
schritthorn, over which there is a prac¬ 
ticable pass to theDungel Glacier , ly¬ 
ing on the E. side of the latter moun¬ 
tain. The ridge of the Gelten Grat 
extends W. from the pass, covered 
with glacier and neve on its N. slope, 
but broken away in steep faces of rock 
on its S. side which overlooks the deep 
gorge of the Grandes Gouilles. A nar¬ 
row and steep ice-stream flows down 
towards the head of the Grandes Gou- 
illcs from the upper neve that lies on 
the S. side of the pass. This, which 
is called Glacier de Morze , affords the 
only apparent way for effecting a de¬ 
scent to the valley of the Morge. This 
is by no means easy, and varies of 
course according to the state of the 
glacier. The path from the Sanetsch 
Pass to Sion is joined about 1 hr. above 
the Pont Neuf, or rather more than 3 
hrs. from Sion. 

The traveller who would make his 
way from the Gelten Pass to Sion by 
the Sionne valley must cross the ridge 
connecting the Wildhorn with the Cre- 
fabessa —the highest point in the steep 
range dividing that valley from the 
Morge. This was effected, not without 
difficulty, in 1858, by crossing the head 
of the Glacier de Morze and making a 
circuit round a steep ridge of rocks 
descending from the Wildhorn. The 
crest of the ridge was then attained 
without further difficulty, and the de¬ 
scent to the Sionne valley, though steep, 
gives no trouble to the practised moun¬ 
taineer. M. Studer reckons the second 
pass as 603 or 700 ft. higher than the 
Gelten Pass. The descent to Sion, 
passing the village of Arbaz, where 
some refreshment may be obtained, does 
not appear to he interesting. 

The Wildhorn may be ascended 
from Lauenen, but more easily from 
An der Lenk. (§ 23, Rte. E.) 


DIABLERETS DISTRICT. 


Route F. 

SAANEN TO OKMOND DESSUS. 

There are three ways leading from 
Saanen to the Val des Ormonds (Rte. 
A), all of them passing through fine 
scenery and easy of access. 

1. By the Lake of Amen . 4^ to 5 hrs. 

About 4 m. from Saanen on the road 

up the Gsteig Thai the road crosses the 
Sarine to the 1. bank, and soon after 
reaches the opening of the Amen Thai, 
a lateral glen, near the head of which, 
2 ^ hrs. from Saanen, is the Amen See, 
a pretty lake about ^ m. in diameter, 
5,072 ft. above the sea. Above the 
lake a low ridge, partly covered with 
pine forest, leads in little more than 2 
hrs. to Plan des lies. Another path 
leads to Etivaz and Chateau d'Oex. 

2. By Gsteig and the Col de Pdlon. 
5j hrs. 

Though rather longer than the la t, 
this way is much more frequented, the 
path being better suited for beasts of 
burden. For the first 9 m. it lies by 
the char-road to Gsteig. (See last 
Rte.) Beyond the village the horse- 
track traverses marshy meadows, pass¬ 
ing near a waterfall, and, after an 
ascent of hr., reaches the Col de 
Pdlon (Germ. Pillenberg), only 5,092 ft. 
in height, the lowest point in the ridge 
which here divides the Cantons of 
Vaud and Berne. N. of the Col, and 
about 550 ft. higher, is the mountain- 
lake of Rett.au , said to deserve a visit. 
On the S. side are the bold rocks whicu 
form the base of the Oldenhorn, whose 
summit is not seen. After a short 
descent a very pleasing view r of the 
Val des Ormi nds, with its green pas¬ 
tures and scattered groups of chalets, 
opens out. Several of these are passed, 
and in 2 ^ hrs. from Gsteig the traveller 
reaches the hotel at Ormond Dessus. 

3. By Lauenen and the Chrinnen 
Pass. 65 - hrs. 

By a detour of only 1 hr., the 
traveller going to the Val des Or¬ 
monds may see something of the fine 
scenery of the valley of Lauenen as 




19 


ROUTE G.— 

weF as that of Gsteig. Taking a char, | 
if so inclined, over the 2 leagues that 
separate Saanen from Lauenen (see 
Gelten Pass, last Rte.), he first crosses 
he low Chrinnen Pass (5,430'), lying 
between two mountains, both called 
Windspillen. The higher of the two 
on the S. side of the pass, and called, 
for distinction, Wallis-Windspillen 
(6,522'), is a projecting buttress of the 
Arbelhorn. 2 hrs. suffice to reach 
Csteigfrom Lauenen, and 2j hrs. more 
lead the traveller to the Hotel des 
Diablerets. 


Route G. 


VEVEY TO THUN, BY BULLE AND 
THE SIMMENTHAL. 



Post 

English 


leagues 

miles 

Chatel St. Denis 

• 2f 

8 

Bulle . . . 

• 4 J 

12* 

Ch&teau d’Oex . 

6 

18 

Saanen . 


7 

Zweisimmen 

P 

. 

H 

Weissenburg 

11* 

Thun . 

4« 

• o 



lij 



A high-road traversed by diligences; 
but it is necessary to change carriages 
twice, if not oftener, and places cannot 
be secured at starting for the entire 
way from Vevey to Thun, or vice versa. 
Persons who can walk or ride will 
usually prefer some one of the passes 
mentioned in the next route to the 
circuitous course followed by the post¬ 
road between Vevey and Montbovon 
or Chateau d’Oex 

The scenery of the Simmenthal and 
the valley of the Sarine have scarcely 
been sufficiently appreciated by tourists 
These valleys do not, of course, rival 
in wildness and sublimity the more 
famous sites that lie at the base of the 
giants of the Alpine chain, but they 
abound in beauties of no mean order, 
and a few days may be very well 
devoted to this route. The moun¬ 
taineer will not want opportunities for 
gratifying his climbing propensities, 
since the panoramas from the Molesou, 


-GR UTERES. 

| the Dent de Jaman (both noticed in 
next Rte.), the Stockhorn, and the 
Niesen (§ 23, Rte. A), must be reckoned 
amongst the most interesting that are 
attainable from the secondary peaks of 
the Alps. 

A fine modern road, very well en¬ 
gineered, mounts from Vevey through 
an opening in the hills watered by the 
stream of the Veveyse, commanding 
noble views over the Lake of Geneva. 
At one of the finest points, about 2 m. 
from the town, is the Hotel Bellevue. 
Five miles farther the road enters the 
Canton Fribourg, and soon after reaches 

C/iatel St. Denis (Inns: Maison-de- 
Ville; H. des Treize Cantons). The 
church and castle, in great part 
modernised, are said to be of high 
antiquity. From hence to Montbovon 
the post-road makes a great detour, 
more than doubling the direct distance 
between those places, passing round 
the base of the Moleson (see next Rte.), 
which is accessible from almost any 
part of the circuit. The road is hilly 
and not very interesting as far as 

Bulle (Inns: Cheval Blanc, ‘dear’ 
[J.] ; Maison de Vilie), a thriving 
town, the chief depot of the Gruyeres 
cheese, 2,523 ft. above the sea. Having- 
been burnt to the ground in 1805, it is 
almost altogether new. Trains on the 
branch railway to Romond (Rte. K) 
on the line between Lausanne and 
Fribourg run in | hr. Here the road, 
which had followed a NE. direction 
from Vevey, turns abruptly to S. and 
passes along the E. base of the Mole- 
son, ascending the valley of the Sarine. 
Half a mile from Bulle is La Tour de 
Treme, a large village, and about 2 m. 
farther the road passes at the foot of the 
hill whereon stands the little half-fos¬ 
sil town of Gruyeres (Germ. Greyer :), 
with no decent inn. It deserves a visit 
for the sake of its church, partly de¬ 
stroyed by fire in 1856, containing a 
curious monument of one of its former 
lords, but especially for its very pic¬ 
turesque castle, once the seat of the 
Counts of Gruyeres, sovereigns of the 
surrounding district. The building is 





20 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§ 22. DIABLERETS DISTRICT. 


tolerably •well preserved, and contains 
the torture-chamber, and other relics of 
an age to which some persons look back 
with regret. 

The scenery is very pleasingthrough- 
out the 10 m. of road from Bulle to 
Montbovon (Inns : H. de Jaman, very 
fair and reasonable; Croix Blanche), 
2,608 ft. above the sea. Horses for the 
pa^s of the Col de Jaman 10 fr. each. 
(See next Rte.) The road now enters 
a wild and picturesque defile, called La 
Tine , from a hamlet with a homely 
inn (L’Ours), which lies amid masses 
of rock and the shade of forest trees. 
A little farther on is a bridge over 
the Sarine, passed on the 1. hand, 
which leads to Rossinieres, a village 
on the rt. bank, where an unusually 
large wooden house offers good ac¬ 
commodation at a very cheap rate— 
charge 4£ fr. a day. [Immediately 
behind Rossinieres is a mountain called 
Le Cray ( 6,795'), the summit of which, 
reached in If hr. by a path through 
fields, then up steep wooded slopes, 
finally along the ridge, commands a fine 
panoramic view. Still more, remark¬ 
able is, however, the panorama gained 
from Le Praz, a point about 1 hr. 
more distant, and 600 ft. higher. This 
includes the chief summits of the Pen¬ 
nine Alps, a large portion of the Ber¬ 
nese Oberland, and most of Fribourg 
and the neighbouring parts of Canton 
Berne.] A mile beyond Rossinieres 
the road reaches Moulins, where the 
path to Etivaz and Comballaz (Rte. B) 
turns off to the rt., and rather more than 
another mile of road leads to 

Chateau cTOex (Inns: H. Berthod, 
well situated ; Ours ; Maison de Ville), 
noticed in Rte. B. Farther on, the 
Sarine has worked for itself a deep bed 
in the limestone strata, and the road, 
henceforward carried along the rt.bank, 
alternately mounts and descends as it 
skirts the base of the mountains. Pass¬ 
ing Flendru, where the path on the 1. 
leads to Charmey (Ilte. B), the next 
village is Rouyemoni (Germ. Rubbery), 
with an inn (Kreuz). In the casile, 
which was at the time a Cistercian 


convent, a printing press was esta¬ 
blished so early as 1481. Some speci¬ 
mens of its productions are still extant. 
About half-way on the road to Saanen 
is the boundary of the Canton Fri¬ 
bourg. On entering that of Berne, the 
language of the population is changed 
to German. The valley of the Sarine 
is remarkable for the neatness and 
rustic elegance of the wooden houses, 
all pretty much of the same size and 
pattern, and ornamented with inscrip¬ 
tions, which usually record the names of 
the owner and his wife, with some appro¬ 
priate Scripture text or rhyming motto 
Saanen (Inns: Grosslandhaus, clean 
and reasonable ; Ours, not recom¬ 
mended), a country town with con¬ 
siderable trade in cattle. The French 
name is Gessenay. Here the valley of 
the Sarine turns due S., mounting to 
Gsteig and the pass of the Sanetsch 
(Rte. E). The road to Thun crosses 
an open plateau of marshy land, called 
Saanenmooser, which forms the water¬ 
shed between the Sarine and the Sim- 
men. Bold and fantastic peaks, clothed 
in their middle zone with pine forest, 
and above rising in precipices of bare 
limestone, add interest to the scenery. 
The most conspicuous from Saanen is 
the Rilbtihorn (7,569'), behind which is 
the Guninifl.uk (8,068'), the highest sum¬ 
mit of the range W. of the Gsteig Thai. 
Nearer at hand, on the rt. hand ascend¬ 
ing to the Saanenmooser, is the Huni- 
Jluh( 6,408'). There is a tolerable inn 
near the summit of the pass, which is 
4.226 ft. in height. A rather rapid 
descent leads to 

Zweisimmen (Inns : Couronne, new 
and good ; Bar, not good), at the junc¬ 
tion of the main stream of the Simmen, 
descending from the glaciers of the 
Wildstrubel (§ 23, Rte. E), with the 
lesser branch flowing from the base 
of the Hornfluh. The road to Thun 
follows the 1. bank for about 2 tn„ then 
crosses the stream, and enters the fine 
gorge of Laubeck , overlooked by a 
castle of the same name. An inscrip¬ 
tion records the opening of the present 
road through the defile, once notorious 





ROUTE G.—THE STOCK1IORN. 


21 


for the accidents that occurred to tra¬ 
vellers by the old and dangerous road. 
The traveller soon returns to the 1. 
oank, and 5 in. from Zweisimmen 
reaches Reidenbach , whence turns off 
to the W. a path to Bulle by the Klus 
und Val de Bellegarde (Rte. B), and 
another path leading in 4 hrs. to the 
oaths of Pomene (Rte. L) Tne valley 
of the Simrnen continues to be a mere 
defile shut in between steep rocks. A 
mile farther on is 

Boltingen (Inn: Bar, improved), a 
pretty village with characteristic large 
wooden houses, 2,726 ft. above the 
sea, at the base of the Mittagfluh, the 
summit of which may be reached in 
3£ hrs. A huge block of limestone fell 
from the mountain a few years ago 
at no great distance from the village. 
The next place is Oberwyl, more than 
2 m. lower down in the valley, and 
nearly 3 m. farther on is the post sta- 
t.on of 

Weissenburg (Inn: Poste), with the 
ruins of two castles. Horses and 
chaises-d-porteur may be engaged here 
for the ascent to the Baths of Weissen¬ 
burg, about 2 m. distant. The path 
mounts steeply in zigzags, and then 
enters a gorge that gradually narrows 
till it becomes a mere cleft traversed 
by the Buntscki torrent. Here, in a 
site somewhat resembling that of the 
famous Baths of Pfafers, is a large new 
establishment, said to be well kept and 
reasonable, which, along with the older 
and inferior building, can accommodate 
300 guests. The waters resemble those 
of Leuk (§ 23). Being 2,930 ft. above 
the sea, the situation is cool, though the 
sun is very powerful during the two 
or three hrs. in which it daily reaches 
the baths. Pedestrians may reach from 
hence the summit of the Stockhorn, and 
descend to Thun, or to the Baths of 
Blumenstein. The way lies by Mor- 
geten to the hamlet of Buntschi, and 
thence by the Wahlalp to the summit. 
Nearly 4 hrs. are required for the ascent, 
but j hr. may be saved by a short 
cut up the lace of a limestone rock 
about 300 ft. in height. The ascent is 


made by rather rickety ladders fixed 
against the rock, and in part by steps 
and notches cut into the stone. It 
should, o: course, be attempted only by 
very steady climbers. Paths lead from 
the Baths to Blumenstein, and to Gur- 
nigel (Rte. L). A guide should be 
taken in this district, as the mountain.* 
abound in abrupt faces of rock and 
deep clefts, which may cause long de 
lays to a stranger attempting to find 
his way alone. Persons going to, or 
coming from, Boltingen on foot need 
not pass by the village of Weissenburg, 
there being a path from the Baths to 
Oberwyl. 

About 4 m. beyond Weissenburg is 
Erlenbach (Inn : Krone), at the S. base 
of the Stockhorn (7,195'), a conspicuous 
peaked summit in that outer range of 
the Alps that lies between the Sim- 
menthal and the basin of Central Swit¬ 
zerland. A little lower than its rival, 
the Niesen, it is not quite so w r ell 
placed for a view of the Oberland 
Alps, but the Oew of the Lake of 
Thun is even finer, and in the oppo¬ 
site direction it overlooks a large 
portion of the Cantons of Berne and 
Fribourg. A mountaineer will be 
glad to take the summit on his way 
to’ Thun. The direct track from 
Erlenbach by the Ivlusi Alp and the 
Klusen See is throughout very steep, 
and requires the assistance of a local 
guide to point out the way. 3^ hrs. 
suffice for an active climber to reach 
the summit. The botanist may find 
several rare plants. The descent to 
Thun lies along the ridge NW. of the 
summit, and gradually bears to the rt. 
by steep but not difficult slopes till 
the chalets of Aelpithal are reached. 
Thenceforward a path leads down 
through pine forest and over Alpine 
pastures to the hamlet of Oberstocken, 
and then to Amsoldingen, about 3^ m. 
from Thun. The descent may be 
made in 4^ hrs., but G hrs. should be 
allowed from Thun to the summit. 

After passing Erlenbach a slight 
ascent enables the road to command a 
view of the opening of the Simrnen- 




22 BERNESE ALPS. § 22. 

thal between the twin peaks of the 
Stockhorn and the Niesen, whose 
pyramidal summits, rising on either 
side 6,000 ft. above the valley, form a 
portal that has not many rivals in the 
Alps. Beyond Latterbach the road 
passes opposite the castle of Wimmis, 
whence the ascent of the Niesen (§ 23, 
Rte. A) is commonly made, and then 
descends towards the shore of the 
Lake of Thun, where it joins the 
Interlaken road, and 3 or 4 m. farther 
reaches Thun. (See § 23, Rte. A.) 


Route H. 

CHATEAU D’OEX TO VEVEY, ON FOOT 
OR HORSEBACK. 

Those who would avoid the long 
and rather uninteresting detour by the 
road between Vevey and Chateau 
d’Oex, have a choice of several paths, 
all of them very attractive, especially 
to those who are approaching the Lake 
of Geneva from the N. All these 
paths traverse the ramification of the 
Alpine chain that extends from the Yal 
desOrmonds to the Moleson S. ofBulle. 
The chief summits are the Tour d' Ay 
(7,818'), Tour de Mayen { 7,622'), Dent 
de Naye (6,693'), Dent de Merdasson 
(6,132'),andth eDentde Janwn (6,165'). 

1. By the Moleson. From 12 to 13hrs. 

This route is rather too long to be 
conveniently made on foot in one day 
from Chateau d’Oex, or even from 
Montbovon (see last Rte.). The best 
plan is to sleep at the village of 
Albeuve , rather more than 1 hr. be¬ 
yond Montbovon, on the road to 
Bulle, where there is said to be a 
tolerable country inn. The Moleson, 
which is the object of this expedition, 
is not a single well-defined peak, but 
rather a highland district, affording 
pasturage to vas< herds of dairy cattle, 
and culminating in a ridge 6,578' in 
height. The summit is easily reached 
from many points on the road between 
Montbovon and Chatel St. Denis (see 


DIABLERETS DISTRICT. 

last Rte.) ; but as the highest point is 
seldom in view, a guide is more requi¬ 
site than in the ascent of many less 
accessible mountains. Irrespective of 
the wide panoramic view of the Alps, 
it commands an unusually extensive 
view over the low country of Switzer¬ 
land, and there is perhaps no other 
summit whence so large a number of 
towns and villages can be distinctly 
seen in favourable weather. There 
is no place of entertainment on the 
mountain, but dry hay may be found 
at some of the numerous chalets by 
those who would pass the night in 
order to enjoy the early morning view. 
The ascent from Albeuve requires 
about 3iy hrs., and 3 hrs. suffice for 
the descent to Chatel St. Denis, pass¬ 
ing by the chalets of Tremettaz. The 
path from Bulle is perhaps the most 
frequented. At 2 m. from that town 
it passes by the suppressed monastery 
of Part-Dieu, and alter an ascent of 
2 hrs. more reaches the chalet of 
Plane, where strangers often pass the 
night. Thence to the summit is a 
walk of 1 hr. 

2 . By the Col de Jaman. 8 hrs., or 
6 hrs. from Montbovon. 

This is deservedly the most fre¬ 
quented way from the valley of the 
Sariue to Yevey. The pass is* com¬ 
monly taken from Montbovon, but in 
approaching it from Chateau d’Oex 
the traveller may save b hr. by taking 
a path to the 1. soon after passing La 
Tine, and fully a mile before reaching 
Montbovon. After crossing the stream 
of the Hongrin the bridle-path ascends 
to En Alliere, a hamlet with a rough 
but clean inn, where wine, bread and 
eggs, supply luncheon. Following the 
track up hill towards SW., the tra¬ 
veller in H hr. more reaches the Col 
de Jaman (4,872'). There are many 
more extensive views from Alpine 
passes than that which is here suddenly 
opened before him, but it would be 
hard to name another more perfectly 
beautiful. The grand ranges of the 
Savoy Alps, seen across the blue Lake 
of Geneva, are framed in an exquisite 




ROOTE I.—VEVEY TO FRIBOURG. 


23 


setting of nearer scenery, wherein 
bright green pastures and sombre pines 
are contrasted with the bold forms of 
the surrounding limestone peaks. It 
is not surprising that Byron, in a well 
known passage, should have declared 
this route to be ‘ beautiful as a dream,’ 
for even the least impressionable pas¬ 
senger cannot escape its fascination. 
The mountaineer will be tempted to 
ascend the adjoining peak of the Dent 
de Jaman (6,165'). The precipitous 
faces of rock that it shows towards the 
S. and W. are completely inaccessible, 
but by its steep N. slope the summit 
may be reached in 1 hr. from the Col; 
not, however, without a stiff climb. 
The summit, which overlooks a pic¬ 
turesque mountain tarn—the Lac de 
Jaman—commands a view of the Ber¬ 
nese Alps, the entire Lake of Geneva, 
a wide tract of the Pays de Vaud and 
the rich country at the foot of the 
Jura, including the lakes of Neuchatel 
and Morat. 

About ^ hr. below the Col de Jaman 
the path divides. That to the left de¬ 
scends directly to Montreux by the 1. 
side of the stream that hows from the 
Col. To the re. is a paved path, lead¬ 
ing by a shorter way to Vevey, which 
may be reached in 3 hrs. from the 
summit. The path is so well marked 
that a guide is not needed ; but there is 
a more shadv and agreeable path than 
the hot and rough paved track. 

fin going from Ormond Dessis or 
Sepey to Vevey, the traveller may fol¬ 
low a mule-track that passes a large 
rock or boulder called Pierre Mouillee, 
traverses Alpine pastures, and then 
descends along the Hongrin. till, on ap¬ 
proaching En Ailiere, he bears to the rt., 
and reaches the Col de Jaman in 5 hrs. 
from Sepey, or if bound for Villeneuve, 
be may join the track of the Col de 
Chaude at Les Cretes.] 

3 . By the Col de Chaude. 7| hrs. 
The most direct way from Chateau 
d’Oex to the Lake of Geneva is by the 
Col de Chaude, leading to Villeneuve, 
and from the summit of the pass the 
traveller may ascend several adjoining 


summits. The range connecting the 
Tour d’Ay with the Dent de Jaman 
abounds in caverns, deep clefts, and 
circular shafts, ofteu of great depth, and 
the naturalist who would devote some 
time to the exploration of this range 
could scarcely fail to find many objects 
of interest. As mentioned in Rte. B., 
the Col de Chaude may be reached 
from Lecherette on the way between 
Comballaz and Chateau d’Oex, but a 
more direct way from the latter place 
is by Batevel, Les Crosets, and La- 
vanchy. A short distance below the 
Col are some chalets, whence the tra¬ 
veller may ascend the Dent de Naye 
(6,693'). The view is much the same 
as that from the Dent de Jaman, save 
that, as this is 528 ft. higher, it com¬ 
mands a larger portion of the mountains 
on either side of the valley of the 
Rhone. A steep descent leads from the 
Col along the Tinieres torrent to Plan- 
cudray, and thence to Villeneuve, which 
is reached in little more than 5 hrs. 
from Chateau d’Oex. Thence to Vevey 
s 7 m. by road or rly. 


Route 1. 


YEVEY TO FRIBOURG AND BERNE. 



PnSC 

English 


leagues 

miles 

Bulle . 


204 

Fribourg . 

. . SJ 

174 

Berne . 

. . C± 

m 


1*1 

56f 


Travellers pressed for time will avail 
themselves of the railway from Lau¬ 
sanne to Berne, taking the train at the 
Chexbres station. (See next Rte.) 

The road from Vevey to Bulle is 
described in Rte. G. Although there 
are no objects of especial interest on 
the road from Bulle to Fribourg, the 
country is so picturesque, so rich with 
thriving villages, scattered houses, 
orchards, and clumps of timber, with 
occasional villas, and the remains of 
many buildings of the feudal period, 
that in any other country than Switzer- 







BERNESE ALBS. 


land it would be sur j to excite unusual 
admiration. One of the most pleasing 
views on the way is from the hamlet of 
Bry, about half-way between the two 
towns. Before entering Fribourg there 
is a stone cross, near the spot where the 
road crosses the rly. from Lausanne, 
whence Mont Blanc is visible in clear 
weather. 

Fribowg (Ziihringer Hof, close to 
the bridge, excellent in all respects 
and, considering the accommodation, 
very reasonable ; Grand Hotel de 
Fribourg; Hotel des Merciers; well 
spoken of) is a town of over 10,000 
inhabitants, called in German Freiburg, 
famed for the beauty of its site on 
the summit of a promontory of 
almost vertical rocks, whose base is' 
washed by the stream of the Sarine. 
It is often compared to Berne, but if 
■when seen from without its position is 
even more picturesque, the interior can¬ 
not bear c< mparison with that of the 
capital of Switzerland. The chief ob¬ 
ject of interest here is the famous sus¬ 
pension bridge, in many respects the 
most remarkable, as it was one of the 
earliest constructed in Europe. 

The length between the great gate¬ 
ways at either end is 941 ft., and the 
height above the Sarine 181 ft. The 
bridge is supported by four wire cables, 
each containing 1,056 strands of wire, 
but so slight in appearance that from a 
distance the entire structure appears a 
mere cobweb when compared to the 
massive chains to which we are accus¬ 
tomed in England. The severest tests 
have been applied without injury, and 
there is no reason to doubt that the 
fabric, due to the skill of M. Chaley, 
of Lyons, which has now been in use 
for30 years, will be as durable as other 
more cumbrous and expensive works. 

A second bridge, not much inferior 
in dimensions to the first., was com¬ 
pleted in 18-10. It is thrown over the 
gorge of the Gotteron on the side of 
the Sarine opposite the town. It is 
689 ft. in length, and 318 ft. above the 
bottom of the gorge. The wire cables 
on which it hangs are attached imme- 


DIABLERETS DISTRICT. 

diately to the rocks on each side, and 
as they are fixed at points of unequal 
height, the effect is very singular. 

The chief object of interest in the 
town is the Church of St. Nicholas, 
one of the best specimens of ecclesias¬ 
tical architecture in Switzerland, well 
restored in 1856. There is a very 
curious bas-relief over the portal under 
the tower. In the church is the famous 
organ built by Aloys Moser, once con¬ 
sidered the finest in the world, and 
still possessing but few rivals. Until 
lately there was a daily performance 
with admission by ticket, but for the 
last two or three years it has been 
necessary for strangers to make a 
special arrangement with the organist. 

Most travellers go from Fribourg 
to Berne by railway (see next Rte.), but 
the country is so rich and pleasing that 
those who prefer to travel by the road 
do not repent of their choice. The 
most frequented route is by Neueueck, 
but some will prefer to pass by Laupen, 
which has given its name to one of the 
battles in which the Swiss laid the 
foundations of their independence. The 
distance by either road is about 20 m. 

Berne is described in § 23, Rte. A. 


Route K. 

LAUSANNE TO BERNE. 

There are several roads from Lau¬ 
sanne to Berne, all of them passing 
through fine country, and leaving a 
pleasing impression of the comtort 
and prosperity prevailing throughout 
most, parts of the Swiss Confedera¬ 
tion, and which seem to be altogether 
independent of differences of race or 
religion, whatever may be said or 
fancied to the contrary. Most persons, 
however, prefer the railway, which 
abridges the journey, and carries travel¬ 
lers at once to their intended head¬ 
quarters. 

1 . By railway. 95 kilometres = 
59 Eng. miles. 

Alter quitting Lausanne the rly. to 






ROUTE K.—AVENTICUM. 


25 


Fribourg loaves the line to Vevey and 
St. Maurice, and gradually ascends to 
a considerable height on the slope above 
the lake, parallel to which it is carried 
fora considerable distance- It crosses 
a small torrent called Paudezeby a fine 
viaduct of 9 arches, which is followed 
bv two other considerable works of the 
same kind before entering the tunnel 
that leads to the Gravdvaux station. 
Between this and the following station 
some glimpses are obtained of the 
Savoy Alps and the lake. At the 

Chexbres station passengers to and 
from Vevey join the line. Omnibuses 
take more than an hour to ascend to 
the station—fare 1 fr. The rly. now 
turns to the N.,and after passing several 
minor stations, reaches 

Botnond (Inns : Cerf; Couronne), an 
old fortified town (2,326'), with a ruined 
castle, said to have been built by one of 
the Burgundian kings. Views of the 
Mont Blanc range are obtained in fine 
weather. The rly. traverses an un¬ 
dulating country, and follows a NE. 
direction for 16 m. farther to 

Fribourg — described in last Rte. 
Little is seen from the rly., which 
passes through a tunnel to the station 
on the W. side of the town. Travellers 
who halt for the interval between one 
train and another are advised to walk 
from the station to the suspension 
bridge, cross this, and follow the road 
leading to the bridge over the Gotteron. 
After crossing it they should descend 
into the valley, and re-enter the town 
near the Arsenal. 

After leaving Fribourg the rly. is 
carried over the Sarine by a massive 
lattice bridge, and traverses another 
considerable bridge before reaching 
the station of Guin (Germ. JDudingen). 
Several tunnels are passed, but in the 
intervals are very interesting peeps at 
the fine country through which the 
line is carried. At Flamatt the rly. 
enters the Canton Berne by a bridge 
over the Sin gin e (Germ. Sense), which 
separates it from Fribourg. The grand 
outline of the Oherland Alps comes 
into view before reaching 


Berne (§ 23, Rte. A). 

2 . By Payerne and Morat. IS post 
leagues = 57 Eng. miles. 

Diligences still travel by this road, 
employing 10 hrs., but most strangers 
who prefer the road to the railway will 
also prefer a carriage to the diligence. 

From Lausanne the road begins at 
once to ascend the W. slopes of Mont 
Jorat, commanding views of the lake, 
but Mont Blanc is concealed by the 
intervening mountains of Chablais. 
The highest point (2,878') is reached 
about 6 m. from the town. After 
traversing a bare tract the road de¬ 
scends into a rich valley, and 15 m. 
from Lausanne reaches 

Moudon (Inns : Cerf; Victoria, not 
good; Maison-de-Ville), one of the 
most ancient towns in Switzerland. An 
antiquary might find much occupation 
in examining the many ancient build¬ 
ings, some of which are partly of Roman 
construction. M. Tissot, a notary, has 
a collection of coins and medals chiefly 
found on the spot. It is a pleasant 
drive of 13-g m. hence to 

Payerne (Inns: Stadthaus, or Mai¬ 
son-de-Ville; Bar; both good), a walled 
town, called in German Peterlingen . 
containing the tomb and other me¬ 
morials of Queen Bertha. The church, 
founded by her in the tenth century, 
converted at the Reformation into a 
corn market, is very curious in its 
architectural details. Diligences run 
daily from hence by Kstavayer to Yver- 
dun, 18=r m., and to Fribourg, 12^ m. 

The road to Morat, distant 12 m., 
runs parallel to the E. shore of the 
Lake of Neuchatel, but the country be¬ 
ing flat, this is not seen from the road. 
7 m. from Payerne the traveller reaches 
Avenches (Inn: Couronne), a little in¬ 
significant town on a hill, occupying a 
small portion of the site of the Roman 
Aventicum. Swiss historians carry 
the foundation of this city of the Hel¬ 
vetians to the sixth century, c.c. It 
was undoubtedly the capital of the 
Roman Helvetia, and, to judge from 
the extent of the remains, it must have 
been a city of first-rate importance. 






26 


BERNESE ALPS. § 22 . DIABLEKETS DISTRICT. 


For centuries the ruins served as a 
quarry, whence columns, marble pave¬ 
ments, and cut stone were drawn to 
serve as materials for churches and 
other buildings. Minor objects were 
sold to strangers or destroyed by the 
ignorant, peasants, and it is only within 
a few years that the collection which 
now exists in a building near at hand 
has been formed under the manage¬ 
ment of a local antiquary. Among 
the objects preserved are a mosaic, 
several fragments of statuary. &c. 

Nearly 4 rn. beyond Avenches is a 
quadrangular stone column marking 
the site of the battle of Morat, wherein 
the Swiss confirmed by a still more 
bloody victory the ascendency they 
had acquired by the battle of Grand¬ 
son, dealing to the same enemy a still 
more crushing blow. The bones of 
the dead, said to have reached 15,000 
in number, were thrown together by 
the victors into a mound which formed 
the most significant record of the 
event. At the time of the battle the 
lake reached the walls of Morat, hav¬ 
ing in the Roman period extended to 
those of Aventicum, and many of the 
Burgundians were drowned in attempt¬ 
ing to escape by the shallow shore. In 
1798, at the time of the French inva¬ 
sion, a Burgundian regiment blew up 
the mound, and flung the contents into 
the lake. Human bones are often thrown 
up on the shore, and are sold for knife- 
handles. 

The Lake of Morat (Germ. Murten 
See) is a shallow basin, about 6 m. long 
by 2 m. in width, 1,427 ft. above the sea- 
level, with low shores, and communi¬ 
cating with the Lake of Neuehat.el by 
a shallow channel. In spring the sur¬ 
face is often covered with a pink 
scum formed by myriads of a species 
of Infusoria— Oscillatoria rubens. The 
small town of Morat (Inns : Cou- 
roiine; Aigle ; Lion) preserves but 
slight traces of its former import¬ 
ance. The castle dates from the 
thirteenth century. Neuehatel may 
be reached by steamer in 1 ^ hr., or by 
road, a distance of 16| m. To Fri¬ 


bourg (omnibus 3 times a day, in 2 
hrs.), by Couryevaux is 10 ^ m. On a 
low hill near the latter village is a lime- 
tree, said to be 36 ft. in circum¬ 
ference, and believed to have existed 
at the time of the battle of Morat, in 
| 1476. The road to Berne—a distance 
of 17 miles—passes through pleasing 
j scenery, especially in approaching the 
city, when the outline of the Oberland 
Alps comes into view towards the SW 


Route L. 

BULLE TO THUN. 

The mountain country between Bulle 
and Thun includes much beautiful 
scenery, scarcely ever visited by stran¬ 
gers, but resorted to by Swiss visitors 
for the sake of mineral waters, of 
which several are noticed below. The 
shortest way to Thun is by the Val de 
Bellegarde (R'e. B), leading by the 
Klus to Boltingen in 8 | hrs., and 
thence to Thun in 65 hrs. 

Another route, at least equally inte¬ 
resting, passes by Val Sainte and the 
Baths of Domene, about 16 hrs.’walk. 

A char-road leads from Tour de 
Treme to Broc, where it crosses the 
Sarine near its junction with theJogne, 
and ascends to Cresuz about If hr. 
from Bulle. Here the Val de Belle- 
garde is left on the rt., and the road 
ascends partly through forest, amid 
very picturesque scenery, to Val Saivte 
(3,361/), originally a Carthusian mona¬ 
stery, now private property, at the foot 
of a conical summit called La Berra. 
This mountain is an annual rendezvous 
of the country people for games and 
festivity on the third Sunday in July. 
The top may be reached in 5 hrs. from 
Fribourg. 

The char-road ceases at Valsainte ; 
a mule-path mounts thence in l£ hr. by 
the S. side of the Berra to the Chessulle- 
Eck —a low pass (4.659 ) commanding 
pleasing views in both directions—and 
descends in 1 hr. to the Baths of 





GEMMI DISTRICT. 


27 


Vomene. A large house, capable of 
receiving 100 visitors, stands close to 
a small dark lake (3,464'), picturesquely 
placed in the midst of mountains that 
rise from 2,000 to 3,000 ft. above its 
shores. The Kaisereag, lying to the 
SE., is visited especially by botanists. 
The summit(7,188') is reached in 3 hrs. 
from the Baths. A guide is almost 
necessary, as the way is steep, and not 
very easy to find. 

From the Baths a char-road descends 
in 1| hr. to the junction of the two 
branches of the Sinyine (Germ. Sense), 
one of which flows from the Lac Do- 
nene, the other from the Ganterisch 
Pass. To reach the pass is a walk of 
4 hrs. from the junction of the two 
streams, and 2| hrs. of rather rapid 
descent lead thence to 

Blumenstein , a very beautiful spot, 
2,205 ft. above the sea, frequented for 
the sake of its mineral waters, contain¬ 
ing iron, combined with salts of mag¬ 
nesia. The establishment is plainly 
fitted up, but clean and not uncomfort¬ 
able. There are in the neighbourhood 
an old castle, a cascade of the Fallbach, 
and several points commanding beauti¬ 
ful views of the Lake of Thun and the 
Oberland Alps. A more considerable 
excursion is the ascent of the Stock- 
horn (Rte. G), which may be accom¬ 
plished in 4 hrs. 

There is a good road from Blumen¬ 
stein to Thun by Thierackern; the 
distance about G m. Charge for a char 
6 fr., and 1 fr. to the driver. 

Thun is described in § 23, Rte. A. 

[From the Ganterisch Pass the tra¬ 
veller may turn aside from the path to 
Blumenstein, and with the help of a 
guide find his way to the Baths of 
Gurnigel, 3,783 ft. above the sea. 
The establishment can accommodate 
more than 200 visitors. There are 
two sources, both sulphureous, among 
the most frequented in this part of 
Switzerland, and considered efficacious 
in the cure of some internal diseases. 
The summit of the Hoch Gurnigel 
(5,066'), easily reached in only hr. 
from the Baths, commands an exten¬ 


sive view. A longer excursion, re¬ 
quiring at least 3 hrs., is that to the 
much higher summit of the Ganterisch 
(7,143'). The descent may be made 
to Blumenstein, or to the Baths of 
Weissenburg (Rte. G.)] 


SECTION 23. 

GEMMI DISTRICT. 

The middle portion of the range of 
the Bernese Alps is best known to 
tourists by the remarkable pass of the 
Gemmi,* leading from the Lake of 
Thun to the Baths of Leak in the Va¬ 
lais, and that name is therefore selected 
to designate the district described in 
this section. It includes the part of 
the main chain lying between that pass 
and the Sanetsch, described in the last 
section, with the short glens which de¬ 
scend towards the Rhone on its S. 
side, and the more considerable tract 
belonging to the Canton Berne, lying 
between the head waters of the Sarine 
and the Kanderthal. 

If it were not for the near neighbour¬ 
hood of the higher group, called par 
excellence the Bernese Oberland, this 
district would probably have attracted 
a still larger share of attention than it 
has received from travellers. It con¬ 
tains much grand and beautiful scenery, 
and there are not many spots where a 
mountaineer can find more enjoyable 
head-quarters than at An der Lenk, 
Kandersteg, or the Baths of Leuk. The 
characteristic advantage of the Alps 
over all other European mountain 
chains is here especially inanifest- 
Elsewhere, as, for instance, in the Py¬ 
renees, the higher mountains form a 
single range, so that, on gaining one 


* Sometimes written Ghemmi, but incor¬ 
rectly, since the letter g in German is always 
pronounced as in the English words get, give, 
&c. 






28 


BERNESE ALPS. § 23 . GEMMI DISTRICT. 


of the conspicuous peaks the eye ranges 
over a wide horizon, but does not en¬ 
counter on either side objects of equal 
grandeur upon which it can rest. In 
this, and most other parts of the Alps, 
the mountaineer who has attained some 
lofty point is confronted by opposing 
ranges of equal or greater height, and 
is more or less completely encircled by 
snowy peaks that, in ceaseless variety 
of form, exhibit in a single view every 
conceivable combination of the ele¬ 
ments of the sublime and beautiful in 
nature. In this district calcareous 
rocks prevail almost exclusively, and 
the near scenery, marked by the cha¬ 
racteristic beauties that appertain to 
that material, contrasts in a striking 
manner with the great range of the 
Pennine Alps, rising on the opposite 
side of the Rhone valley, where crys¬ 
talline rocks impress their peculiar 
mark upon the aspect of the moun¬ 
tains. 

The highest summits of the range 
lying between the Gemini and Sanetsch 
passes are the Wildhorn (10,722') and 
the Wildstrubel (10,715'), but it will 
be convenient to include in this section 
some notice of the higher peaks, out¬ 
liers from the Oberland group, that 
rise in the immediate neighbourhood 
of Kandersteg. 


Route A. 

PARIS TO THE BATHS OF LF.UK, BY 

BASLE AND THUN.-ASCENT OF THE 

DOLDENHORN AND ALTELS. 



Kilo¬ 

Eng. 


metres 

miles. 

Mulhouse (by railway) . 

. 491 

305 

Basle. 

. 30 

18a 

Olten. 

. 38 

23i 

Berne .... 

. 67 

41* 

Thun. 

. 26* 

16* 


652* 

405* 


Post 

Eng. 


leagues 

miles 

Frutigen (by road) . 

. 4f 

14* 

Kandersteg 

n 

n 

Schwarenhach (by mule-path) 3* 

9 

Baths of Leuk . 

. 3 

8 



_ 

38f 


The arrangements on the French 
railways are ill adapted to the conve¬ 
nience of travellers going to Switzer¬ 
land. Until the Neuchatel line shall 
have been made more available for the 
general convenience of tourists, those 
bound from Paris to Berne, who dislike 
night travelling, should go by the trains 
of the Chemin de Fer de l'Est, from 
Paris to Mulhouse by Troyes and Bel¬ 
fort. From Mulhouse the traveller 
proceeds to Basle by the Strasbourg 
and Basle line, belonging to the same 
company. There are but two direct 
trains daily from Paris to Basle. The 
morning train, carrying first and se¬ 
cond-class passengers, reaches Basle in 
14 hrs., while the so-called express 
night-train, with first-class passengers 
only, takes 13 hrs. From Basle to 
Paris there is but one direct train, at 
4 p m. daily, w T hich consumes 13* hrs. 
on the way. The buffet here is ill- 
managed and dear ; it is better to get 
refreshment at the Schweizerhof. 

Basle (Germ. Basel) (Inns : Trois 
Rois, first-class; Schweizerhof, JH. 
Euler, both good and close to French 
railway station ; Sauvage ; Couronne; 
Cicogne ; Faucon; these four are second 
class, but fairly^ good) is a wealthy old 
city, the most interesting in Swit¬ 
zerland to lovers of art and remains of 
antiquity. The Munster — formerly 
the cathedral—is a curious building of 
red sandstone, exhibiting a singular 
mixture of the Romanesque and pointed 
styles of architecture. It contains 
many objects worthy of notice. The 
Council of Basle met in this church in 
1431. The small hall, originally a 
chapter-house and now called Conci- 
lium-Saal, was used only by com¬ 
mittees of the council. This has been 
made available for a collection of curio¬ 
sities, including some relics of Eras¬ 
mus, and 6 fragments of the original 
Dance of Death, falsely attributed to 
Holbein, since it existed here at the 
period of the Council. 

The New Museum contains an im¬ 
portant collection of pictures and draw¬ 
ings by early German masters, in- 








ROUTE A.-BASLE. 


29 


eluding 36 works of the younger Hol¬ 
bein. The Passion and the Dead Christ 
are counted ainorfg his masterpieces. 
There are besides a few Flemish and 
Italian pictures of no importance, and 
some specimens of the modern Swiss 
school. In the same building is the 
library, containing several unique and 
very valuable MSS., a collection of an¬ 
tiquities and coins, and another of ob¬ 
jects of natural history. The Univer¬ 
sity boasts the names of many famous 
men among its professors. Paracelsus, 
Erasmus, CEcolampadius, Bauhin, Eu¬ 
ler, the Bernouillis, and many others, 
may be enumerated in the list. 

Not far from the Spahlenthor, a 
curious ancient gateway, is a fountain, 
called Holbein’s Brunnen, the deco¬ 
rations of which were executed after 
drawings by that master. A stroll 
through the town will reward the lover 
of mediaeval architecture, as many 
curious fragments have survived the 
changes of fortune and fashion since 
Basle passed from the condition of an 
imperial city to that of a free member 
of the Swiss Confederation. 

The bridge across the Rhine leads 
to Klein Basel, on the rt. or German 
bank of the stream, where stands the 
terminus of the Baden railway. See 
§ 26, Rte. A. 

Seven miles from Basle, on the road 
to Rheinfelden, is Auyst, standing on 
the site of the Roman Augusta Raura- 
corum, once a place of great impor¬ 
tance, destroyed by the Huns in 450. 
The foundations of an amphitheatre, 
and other buildings, may be traced, and 
some columns and inscriptions are pre¬ 
served here, but most of the portable 
objects have been removed to the mu¬ 
seum at Basle. 

[Those who prefer to travel at 
leisure through a fine country to the 
rapid but unsatisfactory process of 
railway transport, may reach Berne 
from Basle by the Val Moutiers, or 
Munster Thai, and Bienne. Three or 
four days may be agreeably employed 
in this way. The distance from Basle 


to Bienne is 57 m.—Thence to Bern? 
48 m. by rly.; 20 m. by road. Ax. 
St. Jacob, close to Basle, a Gothic cross 
commemorates the never to be for¬ 
gotten battle, fought in 1444, by 1,500 
Swiss against 30,000 French troops. 
At the close of the day 1,458 Swiss 
lay dead or mortally wounded on the 
field, having slain three times their own 
number—some accounts say 8,000—of 
the enemy. A few miles farther an¬ 
other battle-field, near the village of 
Dornach, recalls a victory of the Swiss 
over the Austrians. The road enters 
the valley of the Birs , otherwise called 
Val Moutiers (Germ. Munsterthal). 
Before reaching Lavffen (Inn: Sonne, 
not good), 16 m. from Basle, the valley 
is contracted to a very picturesque de¬ 
file. Beyond this, the French tongue 
replaces German. At the mineral 
baths of Bellerive is a good and reason¬ 
able hotel. Three m. farther the valley 
opens out, and the road to Bienne, 
bearing to 1 , passes close to the large 
village of Delemont (Inn : Ours). A de¬ 
file, on a grander scale than that al¬ 
ready passed, leads to Moutiers Grand- 
val (Inns: Couronne, good; Cerf), 
17^ m. from Lauffen, so called from a 
famous monastery founded by St. Ger¬ 
main in the 7th century. A light car¬ 
riage with 2 horses, costing 20 fr., may 
be engaged here to reach the summit 
of the Weissenstein over Soleure. The 
valley, which had widened out at 
Moutiers, is once again narrowed to a 
mere cleft, traversed by a new road 
which replaces the very ancient pas¬ 
sage, ill fittedfor modern vehicles. This 
defile, the finest of those on the way to 
Bienne, extends to Court (Inn : Ours), 
about 4 m. from Moutiers. ‘ Here 
the pedestrian may shorten the dis¬ 
tance to Bienne, avoiding Malleray, 
Tavannes, and Sonceboz, by crossing 
the ridge of Montoz due S. of Court, 
and rejoining the road 5 m. from 
Bienne by descending through the 
Combe de Pery.’—[W. M.] TheHa- 
senmatt (see below) may be reached 
on foot in about 5 hrs The main 
road is now carried through green 





30 


BERNESE ALPS. § 23 . GEMMI DISTRICT. 


meadows to Malleray (Inn: Lion d’Or, 
good, but not cheap), and thence to 
Tarannes (Inn: Couronne), 4 m. from 
Malleray, and 11 m. from Moutiers, a 
pretty village (2,523'), near the head 
of the valley of the Birs. The road 
now mounts a steep ascent, and tra¬ 
verses a natural arch in the limestone 
rock, well known as the Pierre Pertuis. 
A partly effaced Roman inscription 
proves the antiquity of this passage. 
Having crossed the dividing ridge, the 
road descends to Sonceboz (Inn: Cou¬ 
ronne, good), a small village in the 
valley of the Suze, whence a very pic¬ 
turesque way along that stream leads 
in 12^ m. from Tavannes to 

Bienne (Inns : Couronne, is, or was, 
good and reasonable; H. du Jura, 
dear; Croix Blanche), lying at the 
opening of the valley of the Suze, about 
1 m. from the lake of the same name. 
The German name is Biel, and that of 
the lake Bieler See. Neuchatel (§ 22, 
Rte. A) may be reached by rly. in 
little more than 1 hr. At Nidan and 
other places on the Lake of Bienne, con¬ 
siderable remains of lacustrine dwel¬ 
lings have been found. The railway 
from Bienne to Berne makes a great 
detour, joining the direct line from 
Basle (described below) at Herzogen- 
buehsee, 23 m. from Bienne. The 
only place of interest passed on the way 
is 

Solothurn ( Inns: Krone, good and rea¬ 
sonable; Rother Thurm; Hirsch; Falke), 
the chief town of the canton bear¬ 
ing the same name. The French name 
is Solenrc, but the German tongue here 
predominates. This claims the distinc¬ 
tion of being, with the sole exception 
of Treves, the most ancient city in 
Europe N. of the Alps, but does not 
contain many important remains of its 
early period. The Cathedral, built in 
the last century, is not very interesting. 
The Clock Tower, in the market-place, 
is certainly very ancient, though pro¬ 
bably not of Roman origin, as commonly 
asserted. The Arsenal contains a fine 
collection of ancient armour, and many 
standards taken by the Swiss in the 


battles by which they established their 
independence. The Museum is of in¬ 
terest to the geologist, on account of 
the fine collection of fossils from the 
Jura, chiefly formed by the naturalist 
Ilugi. 

The portion of the Jura range N. of 
Solothurn is called the Weissenstein. 
This ridge commands one of the most 
famous panoramic views of the Alps. 
The very fair inn at the top is fre¬ 
quented by visitors who go for the sake 
of the view, and by others who remain 
to enjoy the pure air and goat’s milk 
or whey, often recommended to delicate 
persons. The charge en pension is from 
4 fr. to 6 fr. a day. Three hrs. are re¬ 
quired to reach the inn on the moun¬ 
tain from Solothurn. This is 4,209 ft. 
above the sea, and 2,812 ft. above the 
city. The view is more extensive 
from the Rdtliefluh (4,587'), 40 min. 
from the inn. The Hasenrnatt (4,7 54'), 
which is the highest summit of the 
ridge, is 1^ hr distant, and the view 
not much superior to that from the 
Rdtliefluh. There is a road from Basle 
to Solothurn by the Hauenstein.] 

The Swiss Central Railway has a 
trunk line from Basle to Olten, and 
three main branches leading thence to 
Berne, Lucerne, and Zurich, the three 
chief towns of the Confederation. The 
line to Olten starts from the station at 
Basle, which forms the terminus of the 
Alsace rly., and travellers pressed for 
time, who do not wish to enter the city, 
will find a pretty good restaurant at the 
station. They should bear in mind 
that Swiss rlys. are regulated by Berne 
time, 26 min. in advance of Paris time 
kept on the French lines. 

On leaving Basle the rly. crosses the 
Birs, passing N. of the battle-field of 
St. Jacob, and is carried SE. through 
a fine country to Liestliul < Inns : Falke, 
Schliissel; neither good), the chief place 
of the half-canton Basle Campagne, the 
single State having been divided into 
two, after a brief but bloody struggle, 
in 1832. There is a road hence to 






ROUTE A. 


BERNE. 


O 


Solothurn, 28^ m. distant, crossing the 
Hauensteiii, a continuation of the ridge 
of the Jura. The rly., passing through 
a picturesque district by the Sissach 
station, traverses two or three short 
tunnels, and then enters the great tun¬ 
nel, 1 i m. in length, by which it pierces 
the NE. extremity of the Jura range. 
The Hauenstein Tunnel was, in 1857, 
the scene of a frightful accident, arising 
from the falling in of a shaft, whereby 
52 workmen, buried alive in the un¬ 
finished gallery, died of hunger or suf¬ 
focation. Eleven other men lost their 
lives in the attempt to relieve their 
companions. On issuing from the tun¬ 
nel the rly. commands a fine view over 
the valley of the Aar, and by a rapid 
curve, and a bridge over the river, 
reaches the Ohen station, 23* m. from 
Basle. Close at hand is the Hotel von 
Arx,good: and in the little town— 
supposed to be the Roman Ultinum — 
two inns : Thurm. pretty good ; Halb- 
mond. There is a good restaurant at 
the rly. station. Whatever be the 
traveller’s destination, he must here 
change carriage. The lines to Berne 
and Lucerne keep together for a few 
minutes, till, after making a sweep round 
the little town of Aarburg( Inns: Krone; 
Bar), with a picturesque fortress on 
the hill above it, the latter line diverges 
to SE., while the way to Berne is 
carried SW., through an uninteresting 
country to Herzogenbuchsee, where the 
branch leading to Solothurn, Bienne, 
and Neuchatel diverges to the rt. After 
passing two minor stations the country 
becomes more picturesque. Burgdorf, 
at the entrance of the Emmenthal, is a 
place of some local importance. The 
road to Interlaken or Lucerne, described 
in § 24. Rte. Q, here diverges to the 1. 
At Hindelbank —14^ in. from Herzo¬ 
genbuchsee— is the ancient castle of 
the Erlach family, still possessed by 
their descendants. Passing through 
fine parklike scenery, the rly. traverses 
the Aar by a fine lattice bridge, 154 ft. 
above the river, and reaches 

Berne (Inns : Bernerhof, large 
house, noble view, very good but 


dear; Hotel de l’Europe, very pood 
and reasonable, fine view; Schweizer- 
hof, good and reasonable ; Boulevard ; 
H. de France; ail these near the 
rly. station ; Bellevue, near the mint, 
new and good ; Falke ( Faucon) in the 
Weibermarkt, well managed and rea¬ 
sonable. There are many good second- 
class inns, chiefly frequented by men 
of business ; such are the Pfistern and 
Mohr, about the centre of the town; 
Distelzwang; Storeh; Wilde Mann, 
near the rly. station; with others). 
There are several good cafes near th6 
rly. station, but the most frequented in 
summer is the Pavilion, at the corner 
of the Minster Terrace. There are 
many pensions, of which that of Jaggi 
at La Villette has been well recom¬ 
mended. 

This city, now the permanent seat of 
the Federal Government, is built on a 
sandstone promontory, 1,650 ft. above 
the sea, surrounded on three sides by 
the Aar. The tedious ascent and de¬ 
scent formerly required for crossing the 
river has been obviated by the opening 
of the Nydeckbriicke, a fine granite 
bridge, built of erratic blocks found on 
the Kirchet near Meyringen, stand¬ 
ing at the E. end of the town, and 
giving access to the roads which diverge 
from the opposite bank of the Aar. 
The main line of street traversing the 
centre of the town, and passing under 
three antique towers, with footways on 
either side, carried under the first floors 
of the houses which rest on arcades, 
has a singular and picturesque effect. 
The Minster is a fine 15th century 
Gothic church, with many details that 
recall Strasbourg Cathedral. The 
organ an admired instrument, is 
played occasionally in the evening, 
entrance is charged, 1 fr. Opposite 
the W. entrance is the bronze statue of 
Rudolph v. Erlach, the hero of Laupen. 
The Minster Terrace is one of the 
most striking points of view in the 
city. At a height of 108 ft. above the 
Aar it commands a view of several of 
the highest peaks of the Oberland Alps. 
The new Roman Catholic church in 



,32 


BERNESE ALPS. § 23. GEMMI DISTRICT. 


the Metzgergasse is a good specimen of 
modern Byzantine architecture. 

The Natural History Museum is very 
interesting to naturalists, the zoological 
collection of Alpine mammalia, birds, 
&c , is extremely rich. The geological 
collections brought together by Prof. 
Bernard Studer are of great value and 
importance. In the same building is a 
collection of Swiss and other antiqui¬ 
ties, and a so-called ethnographic collec¬ 
tion, containing many objects brought 
from the South Sea Islands. 

In the Bundes-Rathhaus, the place 
of meeting of the Federal Assembly, 
a stranger may be interested in hearing 
debates carried on alternately in four 
different dialects — French, Italian, 
German, and Swiss-German. The 
present Bear-pits, on the E. side of the 
Nydeckbriicke, replace the ancient 
cages in which from time immemorial 
these animals had been preserved in 
Berne, with a short interruption dur¬ 
ing the French invasion. The fancy 
which, at an early period, caused their 
adoption, as supporters of the city arms, 
has been maintained by tradition, un¬ 
til they have come to be regarded as 
guardians of the city. 

To the lover of nature, there is 
nothing at Berne so attractive as the 
views of the Oberland Alps that are 
obtained from every commanding point 
in, and near to, the city. There is, 
indeed, no such panoramic view here 
as that which is gained from Turin and 
its neighbourhood, where more than 
half the horizon is girdled round by 
the peaks of the great chain ; but the 
group of peaks seen from Berne is even 
more striking in form, and the effect 
of the contrast of the snowy range 
with the nearer scenery is more un¬ 
expected, and at least equally impres¬ 
sive. The view may be enjoyed from 
several points in the line of the a icient 
ramparts, now converted into public 
walks, but the most favourable position 
is perhaps that of the Engi Promenade, 
\ m. N. of the rly. station. Another 
delightful walk is along the hill called 
Altenberg, opposite the town on the 


N. side of the Aar. It may be reached 
by a suspension bridge, or by the 
Nydeckbriicke. Another more elevated 
and more distant point of view is the 
summit of the Gurten (2,825')* about 
4 m. from the town. Here, and at 
many other similar positions frequented 
by the citizens, a small inn or cafe 
supplies refreshments to visitors. 

The distance from Berne to Thun 
by the rt. bank of the Aar, whether by 
road or rly., is about 16|- m. By the 
1 . bank the road, which is on the whole 
more interesting, is about 2 m. longer. 
Most travellers go by railway, but those 
not pressed for time may with advan¬ 
tage travel in an open carriage, or 
one-horse char. There is no place of 
any special interest on the way, but 
the road presents scenes of continually 
increasing beauty, and the gradual 
though slow approach, to the snowy 
Alps cannot fail to stimulate the 
curiosity of those who approach them 
for the first time. 

Thun (Inns : FI. Bellevue, first-class 
establishment in very beautiful grounds 
ourside the town, with a chapel for 
English church service, prices rather 
high to passing travellers, families 
taken en pension ; H. Baumgarten, 
chiefly frequented as a pension , in a 
pretty garden by the river, good, charges 
a little lower than at tb~' Bellevue; 
Freienhof; Weisses Kreuz; Krone; 
Falke; all in the town) is perhaps 
the most beautifully situated town in 
Switzerland, standing nearly a mile 
below the point at which the Aar issues 
from the lake. The interior has an 
antique aspect, and offers a fine view 
from the church, but has no buildings 
of importance. The ancient castle, 
built in 1182, overlooks the town, and 
is a most picturesque object. From its 
towers, but equally well from many 
other points near the town, the traveller 
may enjoy a view of the lake and the 
Oberland Alps, which in its way can 
scarcely be surpassed. A sheet of 
beautifully blue water, 11m. in length, 
is seen surrounded by forest-clad moun¬ 
tains, rising some 6,000 ft. above its 



ROUTE A. — THE NIESEN. 


33 


shores, and some of them, especially 
the Niesen, remarkable for the bold¬ 
ness of their forms. Behind these the 
marvellous peaks of the Jungfrau, 
Monch, and Eiger, forming what was 
long deemed an insurmountable barrier 
of rock and ice, two miles in vertical 
height, close the view. Though Thun 
is too distant from the higher moun¬ 
tains to afford desirable head-quarters 
to the mountaineer, it is not surprising 
that less active persons, content to en¬ 
joy without much exertion perfectly 
beautiful aspects of nature, along with 
much comfort and even luxury, should 
select this as a halting-place during the 
fine season, which here extends from 
June to October. There are several 
pretty houses in the grounds of the 
Hotel Bellevue, which are let to fami¬ 
lies boarding in the hotel, by the week 
or month ; and many villas, beautifully 
situated near at hand, chiefly belong¬ 
ing to wealthy Bernese. Of the many 
attractive points of view near the town, 
the most frequented is the Pavilion 
St Jacques, in the grounds of the 
H. Bellevue. The Bliimlis Alp, Dol- 
denhorn, and Gspaltenhorn are visible, 
in addition to the higher peaks al¬ 
ready enumerated. The modern Gothic 
castle of Schadau, built by M. de 
Rougemont, stands in parklike grounds 
of extreme beauty. Permission to en¬ 
ter is usually given to strangers. The 
park belonging to another villa, called 
the Chartreuse, is still better worth a 
visit—the walk leading to a very pretty 
waterfall should not be omitted. Many 
places on or near the lake which form 
interesting excursions from Thun are 
mentioned in this and the following §. 
The Stockhorn, accessible in a rather 
long day’s walk, and commanding a 
magnificent panorama, is described in 
§ 22, Rte. G, and the baths of Blumen- 
stein and Gurnigel, both deserving a 
visit from persons remaining at Thun, 
are noticed in § 22, Rte. L. 

The Lake of Thun (Germ. Thuner¬ 
see) is about 11 m. in length, by 2 m. 
in breadth. The surface is 1,837 ft. 
above the sea, and the greatest depth 

PART II. 


768 ft. Besides the Aar, which drains 
the greater portion of the Oberland 
Alps, the lake receives the Kander, and 
several minor streams from the sur¬ 
rounding ranges. A steamer plies 
twice a day between Thun and Neu- 
haus, near Interlaken (see § 24), em¬ 
ploying l£ hr.—fare 2 fr. 

A post-carriage plies daily between 
Thun and Frutigen. A char from 
Thun to Kandersteg costs 17 fr., and 
from Frutigen to Kandersteg 7 fr. 

On quitting the town the road to 
Amsoldinyen, leading to the Stockhorn, 
is left on the rt. The main road crosses 
an alluvial flat, and nearly 3 m. from 
Thun approaches the lake near the 
Castle of Striittlingen, interesting from 
its association with the race which suc¬ 
ceeded to the throne of Burgundy, and 
at a later date with the no less illus¬ 
trious family of Erlach. The road to 
Saanen through the Simmenthal (§ 22, 
Rte. G) turns off to the rt., while 
that leading to Frutigen and Inter¬ 
laken crosses the Kander by a long 
bridge. This stream, which rises in 
the glaciers near to the Gemmi, once 
flowed in a depression parallel to the 
lake, joining the Aar below Thun. The 
present course was cut in 1714, and the 
geologist will be interested in observing 
the considerable delta which it has 
formed about its entrance into the lake* 
within so short a period as 150 years. 

The road now approaches the base 
of the Niesen (7,763'), a remarkable 
pyramidal peak everywhere conspicu¬ 
ous from the shores of the lake, com¬ 
manding one of the finest panoramic 
views in the Alps. Since good paths 
and a tolerable inn near the summit 
have made the ascent easy, it is much 
visited. The most convenient way is 
that starting from Wimmis, a village 
with a castle on the rt. bank of the 
Simmen (§ 22, Rte. G), near its junc¬ 
tion with the Kander. A char from 
Thun thither costs 5 or 6 fr., and a 
horse or mule from Wimmis to the top, 
15 fr.; if kept overnight, 20 fr. A guide 
is unnecessary, as the way on this side 
is well marked. Those who take one 



34 


BERNESE ALPS. § 23 . GEMMI DISTRICT. 


from Wimmis should not pay more 
than 4 fr., or 6 fr. if he be kept all 
night. The path from Wimmis lies at 
first SW., parallel to the Simmenthal. 
On reaching a torrent called Stalden- 
bach, a signpost directs the traveller to 
turn to the 1., and thenceforward the 
ascent is continuous, with many zig¬ 
zags, and with but a very limited view, 
until, in about 4 hrs. from the village, 
the track reaches a small inn providing 
tolerable accommodation for the night. 
This lies about ^ hr. below the summit, 
a narrow plateau giving room for about 
50 persons, falling away towards the 
lake by a steep but not precipitous 
slope. The panorama of the whole 
range of the Bernese Alps from the 
Titlis to the Diablerets is more com¬ 
plete than from any other point of at 
all equal height, but the highest peaks 
are not seen to such great advantage as 
from the Faulhorn. Taken altogether, 
this deserves to rank amongst the finest 
views of the kind, and will thoroughly 
reward the labour of the ascent to 
those who are fortunate enough to see 
it under favourable conditions. A 
good new path descends from the sum¬ 
mit to the Heustrichbad, near Muh- 
linen, where the traveller may find a 
vehicle either for Interlaken or Kan- 
dersteg. 

Returning to the high-road from 
Thun to Frutigen, which was left at 
the bridge over the Kander, we come, 
about 1^ m farther on, to a point where 
the road divides. That leading to 
Interlaken is carried straight on near 
to the lake, while the road to Frutigen 
turns to the rt., mounting a little to the 
village of Wyler , nearly 6 m. from 
Thun, commanding a beautiful view 
of the lake, with the castle of Spiez 
(§ 24, Rte. A) conspicuous on its shore, 
and in the background the noble ranges 
of mountains on its opposite bank. 
Still finer is the view from Aeschi, 
standing a little to the 1. of the road, 
about 2^ m. beyond Wyler. A char- 
road leads by that village to the shore 
of the lake near Leissigeu, which 
shortens the way to Interlaken for 


travellers passing between that place 
and the Gemmi. The road descends 
a little to Muhlinert (Inn: Bar; good 
country inn), at the E. base of the 
Niesen, nearly 10 m. from Thun. Less 
than 1 m. farther is Beichenbach (Inn: 
Bar), where the opening of the Kien 
Thai (Rte. B) is seen on the 1. with the 
peaks of the Blumlis Alp in the back¬ 
ground. Beyond the village the road 
crosses to the 1. bank of the Kander, 
and the Rinderhorn comes into view, 
followed by the twin summits of the 
Balm horn and Altels, before the travel¬ 
ler reaches 

Frutigen (Inns: Helvetia; Adler; 
both clean, comfortable, and reason¬ 
able), a neat and thriving village, re¬ 
built after a destructive fire in 1827. 
Here the valley divides. The main 
branch mounts to Kandersteg, while 
the W. branch, called Engstligenthal, 
leads to Adelboden and the Strubel 
Pass (Rte. E). From henceforward 
the ascent of the Kanderthal becomes 
rather steep for carriages, and a pe¬ 
destrian will lose no time by conti¬ 
nuing his route on foot. The remains 
of huge moraines, and other traces of 
glacial action, are conspicuous in the 
valley. On leaving Frutigen, the road 
crosses the Engstligenbach, and 1 m. 
farther returns to the rt. bank of the 
Kander. The mountains on either side 
are clothed with forest, and occasional 
glimpses of the snowy Alps are gained 
through openings in the range until 
the Doldenhorn finally averts its su¬ 
premacy among the peaks that enclose 
the head of the valley. A gradual 
ascent of 7^ m. leads to 

Kandersteg (Inns: Victoria, in the 
village; Bar or Ours, at Eggschwmnd, 
14 ni. beyond the village, on the way 
to the Gemmi; the reports of travellers 
are conflicting, but the majority seem 
to incline to the Bar ; a new inn. Hotel 
du Gemmi, is very well spoken of). 
The Victoria is most convenient for 
the excursion to the Oeschinen See, 
and the other houses for most of the 
other routes, for which this is the 
'starting-point. The following are the 





ROUTE A.-ASCENT OF THE DOLDENHORN. 


35 


charges fixed for carriages and horses 
from Kandersteg: — 

fr. 

To Thun—carriage with 2 horses 34 
„ „ with 1 horse 17 

To Interlaken ,, with 2 hot>es 45 

„ ,, with 1 horse 25 

To Frutingen „ with 2 horses 14 

„ „ with 1 horse 7 

Horse or mule to Baths of Leok 15 
,, if starting after 10 a.m. 20 
„ to Schwarenbach . 8 

„ to Oeschinen See . 6 

„ to loot of Tschingel Gla¬ 
cier in Gasterenthal 10 

In fine ■weather a guide is not re¬ 
quired to cross the Gemmi, except bv 
mere novices. Those who can walk 
a little are advised to take the horse 
only to Schwartnbach, in whichever 
direction they travel. Delicate ladies, 
should take a chaise-a-porteur. It is 
not advisable to ride down on the S. 
side. The fate of a French ladv, who 
was thrown over the precipice in 1861, 
will probably deter future travellers 
from attempting the feat. The ascent 
from Leak is not dangerous. Beware 
of checking the mule in difficult places. 

Kandersteg (3,839') is very finely 
situated in the midst of a circle of 
high peaks, most of which are visible 
from the village, or its neighbourhood. 
Nearest to the village is the massive 
range, lying between the Oeschinen- 
thal and the Gasterenthal, whose 
highest summits are the many-pointed 
ridge of the Blumlis Alp (12,041'), 
and the Doldenhorn (11,965'). On 
the opposite, or S. side of the Gasteren¬ 
thal, and more nearly adjoining the 
Gemmi Pass, is the group crowned by 
the peaks of the Balmhorn (12,100'), 
Altels (11,923'), and Rinderhorn 
(11,372'). Of the many excursions 
of which this is a convenient centre, 
the most attractive are those to the 
Oeschinen See (Rte. B), and the Gas¬ 
terenthal (Rte. C). The ascent of 
the Blumlis Alp is noticed in Rte. B. 
The track to Adelboden over the 
Bonder Grat is described in Rte. G. 

[To the enterprising mountaineer the 
most tempting expedition to be made 

D 


from Kandersteg is the ascent of the 
Doldenhorn (11,965'), but as this must 
be reckoned as a decidedly difficult ex ¬ 
pedition, it should be attempted only 
by men in good training, and with 
first-rate guides. The first, and pro¬ 
bably the only, ascent yet effected, is 
described in a well illustrated volume, 
published in German and English, by 
Dr. A. Roth, and entitled Dolden¬ 
horn und 11 ’eisse Frau. Dr. Roth and 
M. E. v. Fellenberg started from Kan¬ 
dersteg at 2 a.m. on the 30th of June, 
1862, with Christen Lauener and 
Johann Bischof of Lauterbrunnen, 
Kaspar Blatter of Meyringen, and 
Gilgian Reichen of Kandersteg. as 
guides, besides Christen Ogi of Kan¬ 
dersteg, and Peter Lauener, a son of 
Christen, as porters. Reichen is 
highly spoken of, and is probably the 
best guide at Kandersteg. A previous 
attempt made by M. v. Fellenberg and 
two companions in the preceding 
month of May, in which the party 
reached the summit of the second 
peak, or Klein Doldenhorn (11,443'), 
had put the travellers upon the true 
track, by which alone, as it would 
seem, the highest summit is acces¬ 
sible. 

The Doldenhorn is an irregular py¬ 
ramid of which the sides facing SE. 
and SW. are precipices of rock of ap¬ 
palling steepness, too nearly vertical 
for snow to rest upon. The NE. side, 
best seen from the Oeschinen Alp, 
shows a front of shattered glacier and 
ice slopes, resting on impracticable 
ledges of rock It is on the NW. 
side alone that the slope is somewhat 
less formidable, and by this face, which 
is turned towards Kandersteg, the at¬ 
tempt was made. Westward from the 
highest peak extends a ridge which 
rises into several peaks, following each 
other in descending order—the Klein 
Doldenhorn, the Doldenstock, and the 
double-pointed Fisistoek. The way 
to the summit is by the glacier lying 
on the N. side of this ridge. The gla¬ 
cier is best attainable by the Byberg 
Alp, reached in I hr. from Kandersteg 
o 





36 


BERNESE ALPS. $ 23 . GEMMI DISTRICT. 


bv a path which diverges from the 
Gemini road at a saw-mill above the 
village. Thence the course bore some¬ 
what to the 1., and in if hr. the tra¬ 
vellers reached the base of the Spitz- 
stein, a shattered mass of limestone 
projecting from the glaciers that cover 
the NW. slope of the mountain. The 
ascent was continued by a steep mo¬ 
raine lying along the ridge of the 
mountain which overlooks the Oeschi- 
nen See, and then over snow-slopes, 
till, in about 5 hrs., they gained the 
upper glacier plateau, from whence 
rise the peaks of the Great and Little 
Doldenhorn. Here the difficulties com¬ 
menced. The glacier is riven by 
several enormous crevasses, and the 
traveller who diverges somewhat to the 
rt to avoid them, is threatened by the 
fall of impending masses of ice and 
snow that hang from the ridge of the 
Little Doldenhorn. Dr. Roth considers 
this part of the ascent so dangerous 
that it can be undertaken only un¬ 
der unusually favourable circumstances. 
After gainingthe ridge between the two 
peaks, the summit was attained, after 
a laborious climb through soft snow, 
in 9 hrs. from Kandersteg.] 

The char-road leading to the Gemmi 
is carried for 1^ m. beyond Kander¬ 
steg to the hamlet of Eggschwand. 
The new Inn (H. du Gemmi) is met 
first, and about f m. farther the Bar, 
rebuilt in 1865. The stream issuing 
in a fine cascade from the Ueschi- 
nenthal, a short, wild glen, joins the 
Kander from the SW., and the bridle¬ 
path to the Gemmi crosses to the 1. 
bank of the main stream at the bridge 
of Klus. A little higher up is the 
junction of the chief source of the 
Kander, flowing from the Gasteren- 
thal, with the lesser stream that de¬ 
scends from the S. The old path lead¬ 
ing to the Gemmi, turns away from 
the stream, and bears to the rt. up the 
steep pine-covered slope of the Gelli- 
horn, while another misleading path 
keeps pretty near to the torrent. A 
new path, intermediate between those 
abo?e noticed, is now used in ascend¬ 


ing to the Gemmi. It gives a fine view 
into the Gasterenthal. Above the 
steepest part of the ascent, the track 
passes the boundary between the Can¬ 
tons Berne and Valais, the latter here 
trespassing beyond the watershed sepa¬ 
rating the basin of the Rhone from 
that of the Aar. After passing the 
chalets of Winteregg, the traveller 
reaches a bare and wild tract of Alpine 
pasture, partly covered with rocks, 
fallen from the surrounding peaks. 
The Altels and Rinderhorn, hiding 
the higher summit of the Balmhorn 
behind them, rise very grandly from 
this dreary basin, wherein stands the 
solitary inn of Schivurenbach (6,775'), 
nearly 4 hrs.’ walk, ascending from 
Kandersteg. The inn here has been 
taken by the well-known Melchior 
Anderegg. It is small, but clean, and 
fairly well managed by his wife and his 
brothers, Andreas and Peter, who are 
good local guides. 

The ascent of the Altels (11,923') 
has been frequently made of late years, 
and well deserves the exertion. A good 
guide, with the usual requisites of rope 
and ice-axe, are indispensable, along 
with perfect steadiness, as the snow- 
slope is extremely steep and long, and 
a slip would be almost certainly fatal. 

The following notes may be uselul 
to future travellers:— 

‘ Turn off from the Gemmi track, a 
short distance below Schwarenbach, 
just before the stream from the Zagen 
Glacier is reached in the ascent from 
Thun ; mount through a small wood of 
stunted pines, and turn to left in order 
to avoid a precipitous ledge of the 
mountain. Then go straight up the 
rough side of the mountain, keeping as 
near as possible to the right side (over 
the Zagen Glacier). After reaching the 
snow, keep the same direction. In 
fact, all that is needed is, never to go 
far from the edge of the precipice, on 
the Schwarenbach side. When the 
snow is much melted (as in 1859) it is 
possible to ascend almost all the way 
by a sort of causeway of bare rock be¬ 
tween the snow and the edge of the 





ROUTE A. — GEMMI PASS. 


precipice. The point with the cross is 
not the summit, the highest point is at 
the other end of the ridge. Time: from 
Schwarepbach Inn to foot of moun¬ 
tain, l£hr.; to snow, 2 hrs. 37 min.; 
to summit, 2 hrs.; descent of snow, 

1 hr. 5 min.; of rest of mountain, 1 hr. 
45 min.— [T. G. B.] 

The Rinderhorn (11,372') has been 
ascended from Schwarenbach by Mr. 
G. Studer. The ascent is of the same 
character as that of the higher and 
more tempting peak of the Altels. 

The Balmhorn (12,100), the highest 
of the three associated peaks, rather less 
difficult than the Altels, and command¬ 
ing a still wider view, was first 
ascended in 1864 by Mr. and Miss 
Walker, with Melchior and P. An- 
deregg. Keeping somewhat to the rt. 
of the Altels, the way is over a small 
glacier, leading to the ridge connecting 
the Rinderhorn with the Balmhorn, 
then along the arete to the highest 
point. In a second ascent by Mr. W. 
E. Utterson, with four companions, of 
whom two were ladies, the party, 
guided by Andreas Anderegg, sue- 
ceeded in descending direct to the 
Baths of Leuk. 

Andreas and Peter Anderegg expect 
20 fr. for the ascent of each of the 
higher peaks. 

Rather more than ^ hr. of rough but 
not steep ascent from Schwarenbach 
is required to reach the Dauben See 
(7,328'), a dreary sheet of ice-cold 
water, derived from the melting of 
the Liimmeren Glacier, surrounded by 
seemingly bare rocks, that afford a 
tolerable harvest to the botanist. The 
geologist will notice numerous belem- 
nites. The lake is drained only by 
subaqueous fissures in the limestone 
rock, but is supposed to feed a stream 
which bursts out on the S. side of the 
Gasterenthal. The Liimmeren Glacier 
stretches to the W., between the Dau- 
benhorn (9,449') and the Liimmernhorn 
(?) (10,22o'), which separate it from the 
valley of the Rhone, and the Steghom 
(10,332'), an outlier from the mass of 
the Wiidstrubel (Rte. H). But a short 


37 

way above the lake, and rather more 
than 1 hr. from Schwarenbach, is the 
summit of the 

Gemini Pass (7,553'). the lowest and 
most accessible in the long range, ex¬ 
tending from the Grimsel to the 
Diablerets. The striking view, best 
seen from a point a few yards 1. of the 
pass, is alone sufficient to recompense 
the slight labour of the ascent. The 
annexed outline will serve to show the 
position of the chief summits of the 
Pennine Alps visible from the pass, 
and usually misnamed by guides. The 
extraordinary path by which the descent 
is effected on the S. side must alwavs 

w 

render this one of the most remarkable 
passes in the Alps. To the practised 
mountaineer it is not altogether a new 
thing to undertake the descent of a 
precipice of nearly vertical rock, but 
it does not often happen that such a 
precipice is fully 2,000 ft. in height, 
and there is none other which is made 
accessible, as this is, by a perfectly 
safe and convenient path, daily traversed 
in summer by men, women, and beasts 
of burden. The head of the valley 
of the Dala above the Baths of Leak 
is enclosed by a wall of jurassic 
limestone, from 2,000 to 4,000 ft. in 
height, connecting the Daubenhorn 
with the Rinderhorn. In one place 
immediately below the pass this wall is 
cleft by a deep indentation running 
from the top to the bottom. Although 
the rocks do not appear to be more ac¬ 
cessible here than elsewhere, this break 
in the face of the barrier has afforded 
the means of scaling it by a practicable 
path, which was executed by Tyrolese 
workmen, employed by the Cantons 
Berne and Valais, between 1737 and 
1741. This is chiefly carried along 
the W. side of the cleft by zigzags, 
running so nearly over each other that 
it is rarely possible either to see the 
way already traversed, or the path by 
which the descent is to be continued. 
The track is in most places 5 ft. in 
width, and is guarded at intervals by a 
low wall or by rails, so that it is perfectly 
safe for foot-passengers, however un- 




PANORAMA SEEN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE GEMMI PASS 
(From a Sketch by F. E. Blackstone.) 


































ROUTE A.-BATHS OF LEOK. 


39 


used to mountain travelling. The 
fatal accident already referred to proves 
that there is risk in riding down a place 
where a slip of the animal may throw 
the rider over the verge to certain 
destruction ; but in riding up the pass 
such an accident is all but absolutely 
impossible, and it is constantly tra¬ 
versed in this way by hundreds of 
travellers. The descent may be easily 
made in less than 1 hr.—the ascent 
requiring hr.—and from the base of 
the precipice an easy ^ hr. takes the 
traveller to the 

Baths of Leuk (Inns: H. des Alpes, 
not well managed, but perhaps the best 
for tourists ; Bellevue ; H. de France, 
good ; in all these the charge en pension 
for breakfast and dinner is 6 fr. a day. 
In the second-rate houses—Maison 
Blanche ; H. de l'Union ; H. Brunner; 
Croix Federale—the charge is fr. 
a day). Strangers must be careful 
not to confound the baths with the 
town of Leuk, in the valley of the 
Rhone, 8 m. distant. The thermal 
springs, which have made this place 
famous, were known and resorted to 
in the middle ages, chiefly for the cure 
of scrofula and cutaneous diseases. 
They seem to have lost somewhat in 
importance during the present century, 
owing to the competition of other 
waters possessing similar qualities. 
The peculiarity which chiefly strikes 
strangers is the practice of congrega¬ 
ting the patients in large public baths, 
wherein a miscellaneous 'company of 
both sexes passes several hours daily, 
beguiling the tedious hours by conver¬ 
sation, and such amusements as are 
practicable to persons immersed up to 
the chin in water. Floating tables are 
used to carry newspapers, coffee-cups, 
chessmen, &c. It is needless to say 
that the strictest decorum is observed 
by the bathers; and strangers, who are 
freely admitted to the galleries sur¬ 
rounding the baths, will recollect that 
the company, oddly disguised in long 
bathing dresses of dark woollen stuff, 
is the same that may be met at a later 
hour at the tables d'hote of the hotels. | 


There is an omnibus daily to Sierre 
by Susten, on the Simplon road. The 
following tariff for carriages, mules, 
guides, and porters, is fixed by the 
Cantonal authorities:— 

% 

1 horse 2 horse* 





fr. 

fr. 

Carriage to 

Fusten 

10 

15 

91 

to 

Sierre 

. 16 

25 

>1 

to 

Sion 

25 

40 

99 

to 

Visp 

22 

35 

99 

to 

Brieg . 

. 30 

40 


fr. 

Horse or mule with guide to Kandersteg 20 


99 

to place called Stock 

• • 

15 

99 

to Schwaretibach 

• • 

10 

99 

to summit of Gemmi Pass. 

6 

99 

to Leuk 

• • 

H 

99 

to Sierre 

• 


99 

to Turrman 

• • 

»5 

19 

to Torrenthorn . 

• • 

11 

99 

to Guggerhubel . 

• • 

6 

9> 

to Fluh Gletscher 

• 

6 


For the shorter excursions the charge is 3 
or 4 'r. 

Porters carrying chaises-a-porteur 
or Tragsessel—2 men suffice for a child, 
4 men lor an ordinary adult, 6 men for 
unusually heavy persons—are each en¬ 
titled to the following rates:— 




fr. 

To Kandersteg . 

• • 

7 

,, Sehwarenbach 

• • 

5 

„ summit of Gemmi Pass 

4 

„ Leuk 

• • 

4 

„ Turtmau or Sierre 

• • 

5 

A porter carrying a 

moderate 

of luggage: — 


fr. 

To Kandersteg . . 

• • 

6 

,, Sehwarenbach 

• • 

4 

„ summit of the Gemmi Pass . 

3 

„ 1 .euk 

• • 

4 

„ Turtman or Sierre 

• • 

5 


Apart from the rates specially laid 
down in the tariff, the daily charge for 
a horse with a man to lead it is 10 fr. 
and for a porter carrying luggage, 5 fr. 
The rather heavy tolls payable for 
horses, &c., passing by the new road 
down the valley of the Dala are in¬ 
cluded in the above charges. The 
rates fixed for the hire of horses are 
inclusive of the return to the Baths, 
except that persons crossing the Gem- 
mi and returning from Kandersteg on 
horseback pay 2 fr. additional towards 
the maintenance of the track. 






40 


BERNESE ALPS. § 23 . GEMMI DISTRICT. 


Apart from the inducements offered 
hv the waters to the many Swiss and 
French visitors who resort thither, 
chiefly in the months of July and 
AugusJ, the Baths of Leuk, standing 
4,642 ft. above the sea, in the imme¬ 
diate neighbourhood of many Alpine 
summits ranging from 9,000 to 12,000 
ft., afford excellent head-quarters to 
the tourist and the mountaineer. The 
head of the valley of the Dala is 
almost completely hemmed in by pre¬ 
cipitous limestone rocks ; and the tor¬ 
rent is formed in pait by the melting 
of some small glaciers, but mainly from 
springs that burst out near the base of 
the rocks, to which the copious sources 
that supply the Baths largely contribute. 
The valley is enclosed on the E. side 
by a lofty mass, whose highest summits 
are the Resii Roth-liorn (9,"61') and the 
Torrenthorn (9,679'), forming a promon¬ 
tory from the range connecting the 
Balmhorn with the central group of 
the Oberland Alps. On the 1. bank of 
the Dala below the Baths is an almost 
vertical wall of limestone, called the 
Wandfluh, which is in truth the lowest 
course of the gigantic masonry that 
sustains the above-mentioned peaks. 
On the opposite side Of the valley 
another steep range, an outlier from the 
Daubenhorn, cuts off access from the 
W. into this secluded valley. 

The excursions to be made from the 
Baths are numerous and interesting. 
There is a pretty planted walk, 1^ m. 
long, intended for patients unable to 
take more active exercise. The fall of 
the Dala, about 14 m. above the Baths, 
is worth a visit, and the traveller may 
follow up the course of the stream to 
the chalets of Maing, and to the Dala 
Glacier at the S. base of the Balmhorn, 
3 hrs. from the Baths. It does not 
appear that any serious attempt has 
been made to effect a pass in this direc¬ 
tion to the Gasterenthal. 

The passes leading from the Baths of 
Leuk to Ferden or Kippel, in the Lots- 
chenthal,have lately attracted the atten¬ 
tion of travellers, and are described in 
Rte. D. 


One of tbe most frequent excursions 
is to the Leitem. A path along the 1. 
bank of the Dala leads in 2 m. from 
the Baths to the base of the Wandfluh, 
the great wall of rock already men¬ 
tioned. On the slopes above the 
rocks is the hamlet of Albinen. The 
ordinary way from the Baths to Albi¬ 
nen lies up the face of the Wandfluh 
by means of 8 ladders fastened to the 
rock by wooden pegs. Though these 
seem unsteady, there is neither risk nor 
difficulty in the ascent The ladders 
serve as the ordinary means of com¬ 
munication, and are constantly used 
by the men, women, and children of the 
valley ; but strangers who have not 
very steady heads may better decline the 
feat. Albinen is 2 hrs. from the Baths. 
A steep descent leads thence to Inden 
in 1 hr., or, if bound for the Lotschen- 
thal, the traveller may reach Ferden in 
4 hrs. by Jeizinen and the Faldum 
Pass (Rte. D). 

The Guggerhubel , reached in 2| hrs. 
by a steep path, or by a rather longer 
mule-track, commands a fine view over 
the Rhone valley and the Pennine Alps. 
A more extensive view is gained by 
ascending | hr. farther to the summit 
of the Gabhstock (8,081'). But those 
who are favoured with fine weather 
have within reach of the Baths a far 
more remarkable panoramic view, and 
at the same time very easy of access. 
This is gained from the Torrenthorn 
(9,679'), also called the Mainghorn, the 
highest point in the range immediately 
E. of the Baths. The ascent begins 
close to the Hotel des Alpes, mounting 
towards the E. in zigzags over steep 
slopes of pasture. On reaching a belt 
of trees the path turns to the rt., or S., 
and is carried for some distance through 
a thick pine-wood. Then follows a 
steeper climb over rock, but the path is 
good, and ladies may safely keep to 
their horses. Above this the forest be¬ 
comes more sparse, and the trees gradu¬ 
ally dwindle, till a gate in a low stone 
wall opens upon a broad bare expanse 
of Alpine pasture. This is traversed 
for 2 hrs. of gradual ascent until the 









ROUTE B. — KIEN THAL. 


41 


mountain gradually contracts to a mere 
ridge, sloping away very rapidly to the 
rt. A wooden seat and rough .table 
usually bear evidence of the luncheon 
of preceding visitors, and ladies are 
invited to descend from their mules, 
and to proceed a few yards farther on 
foot. In a quite unexpected way the 
ridge comes abruptly to an end, and 
travellers find themselves on the sum¬ 
mit of the mountain, commanding a 
noble view which is not limited to the 
great range of the Pennine Alps from 
the Monte Leone to Mont Blanc, 
though this includes the grandest objects 
in view. The snowy range crowned by 
the Bietschhorn (12,969'), dividing the 
Lotschenthal from the Rhone, is very 
conspicuous, and farther to the 1. appear 
all the highest peaks of the Oberland, 
rather too much crowded together to be 
seen to the best advantage. Near at 
hand a considerable expanse of neve, 
enclosed by shattered towers and pyra¬ 
mids of rock, descends to the N., giving 
birth to the small Maing Glacier. The 
ascent requires about 3 hrs., and the 
descent 2 hrs. ; but with mules more 
time must be allowed in returning. 

Travellers who have reached the 
Baths of Leuk by the Gemmi usually 
descend into the valley of the Rhone, 
and there join the great road of the 
Simplon leading from Martigny to 
Brieg, described in § 21, Rte. A. Should 
they be bound for the Lower Valais, 
they may best proceed direct to Sierre, 
but if their destination be Zermatt, or 
the Upper Valais, they may reach 
Turtman by Susten. 

A new road has been completed 
within the last few years, by which 
carriages descend from the Baths to 
Inden , m., but the old mule-path 

enables the pedestrian to shorten the 
way. A toll of 15 cent, is payable by 
foot-passengers, and 2 fr. for each horse 
or mule. After passing Inden, the 
road to Susten descends the very steep 
rocky slope above the rt. bank of the 
Dala. The rocks rise precipitously on 
the rt., and the road is in one place 
roofed over to protect it from falling 


stones. This is the way taken by nearly 
all travellers, and the only one fitted 
for an ordinary carriage; but those 
bound for Sierre on foot or horseback 
may follow a track (passable also for 
light chars), that issues from the gorge 
of the Dala at a point where a very fine 
view is gained over the broad valley of 
the Rhone. The descent lies by Varen 
and Salgesch, and after crossing the 
Raspilly torrent, Sierre [Inn: Soleil, 
good] (§ 21, Rte. A) is reached in 9 
m. from Inden, or 13^ m. from the 
Baths. 

The carriage-road descends to a fine 
new bridge over the Dala, and is then 
carried along the 1. bank till, in m. 
from the Baths, it leads to the little 
town of 

Leuk (Fr. Loueche), with a good 
country inn — Kreuz— very pictu¬ 
resquely placed on the rt. bank of the 
Rhone. Though now an insignificant 
place, it once boasted of two castles, 
whose ruins overlook the place, and 
several public buildings. A short 
descent leads to a covered bridge over 
the Rhone, and in ^ hr. from Leuk the 
high-road of the Simplon is reached at 
Susten, a small place with a very nice 
new inn, about 3 m. from Turtman 
[Inns: Poste, good; Soleil, fair] (§ 21, 
Bte. A). The omnibus between Sierre 
and the Baths passes by Susten, but 
few travellers will desire to travel by a 
vehicle which allows them to see little 
or nothing of the fine scenery of the 
valley of the Dala. 


Route B. 

THUN TO KANDERSTEG BY THE KIEN- 


THAL—ASCENT 

OF THE 

BLUMLIS 

ALP. 


Mrs ’ 

Eng. 


walking 

miles 

Reichenbach 

a 1 

10* 

Tschingel 

. . 3* 

10 

Diindengrat 

. 3 

7 * 

Kandersteg . 

. . 3} 

9 


- — 

"" — 


13* 

37 





42 


BERNESE ALPS. § 23 . GEMMI DISTRICT. 


This route affords to the active pedes¬ 
trian a pleasant alternative to the ordi¬ 
nary char-road from Thun to Kander- 
steg, described in the last Rte. As 
there is no desirable stopping-place in 
the Kien Thai, it is advisable either to 
sleep at Muhlinen or Reichenbach, or 
else to start extremely early from Thun, 
engaging a vehicle as far as the last- 
named place. There is a very rough 
char-road from Reichenbach to Tschin- 
gel, hut probably no time would be 
saved by taking a vehicle. The track 
over the Diindengrat being scarcely 
traced, it is not advisable to go with¬ 
out a guide. The road from Thun to 
Reichenbach is described in the last 
Rte. Less than a mile from the latter 
village is the hamlet of Kien, at the 
junction of the Kienbach with the 
Kander. The Kien Thai bears down the 
drainage of the N. side of the range of 
the Bliimlis Alp, and its upper end 
presents far grander scenery than that 
visible from the main valley of the 
Kander. At the small village called 
Kienthal, 2 hrs. from Reichenbach, a 
torrent descending from the lateral 
glen, called Spiggengrund , joins the 
Kienbach. By that way lies a rough 
track leading to the valley of Lauter- 
brunnen (§ 24, Rte. E). About 4 m. 
higher up is the pasturage of Tschingel, 
with several well-built chalets, which 
might afford tolerable quarters in case 
of need. Near at hand is a pretty 
cascade of the Dundenbach. The 
valley becomes more Alpine in cha¬ 
racter as it approaches the snowy peaks 
that enclose its head. Three torrents 
join to form the Kienbach. That 
flowing from the E. descends from the 
Sefinen Furke, leading to the valley of 
Lauterbrunnen (§ 24, Rte. F). The 
central, and principal stream descends 
from the Gamchi Glacier. This lies in 
a great hollow backed by the E. ridge 
of the Bliimlis Alp, and shut in on the 
W. by the Wilde Frau (10,702'), and 
on the E. by the Biittlassen (10,463') 
and the Gspaltenhorn (11,260'). By 
this glacier, and by the Gamchiliicke 
(§ 24, Rte. F), it is practicable to reach 


the upper plateau of the Tschingel 
Glacier, and descend thence to Kander- 
steg by the Gasterenthal,to the Lotsch- 
enthal by the Peter’s Grat, or to Lau¬ 
terbrunnen by the Tschingeltritt. 

The third torrent, descending about 
due N. into the head of the Kien Thai, 
is that which leads to the Diindengrat. 
The valley is left at the Steinen Alp, 
a group of good chalets ; thence the 
ascent is steep, passing in succession 
two groups of chalets—Untere and 
Obere Bundalp. At the uppermost of 
these, M. de Fellenberg and party slept 
for three nights when engaged in un¬ 
successful attempts upon the Bliimlis 
Alp, and had to combat most extor¬ 
tionate demands from their inhospitable 
host. Towards the top of the pass 
there are usually large patches of soft 
snow, causing some delay, and nearly 
4 hrs. must be allowed for the ascent 
from Tschingel to the summit of the 
Diindengrat. This lies between the 
Bundstock (9,045') and the Schwarz- 
horn (9,121'). The height of the pass 
is not marked on the Swiss Federal 
Map. With boiling-water apparatus 
Mr. Jacomb found the height of 8,619 
ft., which must be much nearer the 
truth than 7,451 ft., the measurement 
assigned by M. Joanne. The view 
from the summit is one of unexpected 
grandeur. To the S., and close at 
hand, the many-peaked Bliimlis Alp 
(12,041'), followed by the Freunden- 
horn (11,050'), and the Doldenhorn 
(l 1,965'), may rival many more famous 
scenes in the Alps. To the E. and 
NE. the summit of the Jungfrau is 
seen towering above the range con¬ 
necting the Gspaltenhorn with the 
Schilthorn above Lauterbrunnen. In 
the N W. a portion of the plain of Swit¬ 
zerland is seen above the mountains 
that enclose the Kien Thai. On the 1. 
hand during the descent is the Bliimlis 
Alp Gletscher, occupying, according to 
a fanciful tradition, the site of an alp 
which once fed large numbers of cattle. 
A rough and rather steep descent leads 
to the Ober Oeschinen Alp, command¬ 
ing a fine view of the Wildstrubel 




ROUTE B.-ASCENT OF THE BLUMLIS ALP. 


43 


range, and of the beautiful little lake of 
Oeschinen, lying deep in the valley 
below, amidst precipices of rock and 
dark masses of pine forest. The de¬ 
scent to the lake is by a mere goat- 
track, carried along narrow ledges of 
rock, leading to the lower chalets, and 
then down to the 

Oeschinen See. This little sheet of 
water, secluded from the outer w r orld 
by impassable ridges that rise many 
thousands of feet above its shores, and 
half buried amid forests that are saved 
from the axe by the difficulty of obtain¬ 
ing access to them, in whose still -waters 
snowy Alpine peaks are constantly 
mirrored, offers a scene not surpassed 
by any other in the Alps. Those who 
may not select this route to approach 
Kandersteg, should not fail to make the 
excursion to the lake, and if favoured 
by weather they will do well to make 
the ascent to the summit of the Diin- 
dengrat, returning to the village and 
so enjoying the morning and evening 
aspects of the scenery. ‘ Majestic 
splendour of eternal snow; savage gran¬ 
deur of the vast glacier abysses; sweet 
loveliness of the calm lake and fra¬ 
grant pines; never-ceasing decay of 
the barren, grey, weather-beaten rocks; 
such are the characteristics of the 
Oeschinenthal, and in these contrasts 
lies its charm.’—[A. R.] The descent 
from the lake through the Oeschinen 
Thai to Kandersteg is a walk of about 
1 hr. 

[The ascent of the Blumlis Alp , also 
called Frau, being best undertaken 
from the Oeschinen Alp, may be briefly 
noticed here. It is not properly a 
single mountain, but rather a ridge of 
great height, cut away in precipices on 
the SE. side, surmounted by 4 princi¬ 
pal peaks, in the following order, reck¬ 
oning from NE. to SW .:—Morgenhom 
( 11 , 733 '), Weisse Frau ( 12 , 011 '), Bliim- 
lisnlphorn (12,041'), Oeschinenhorn 
(11,457'). To the SW. of the last 
peak, and between it and the Dolden- 
horn, is a minor summit—the Freun- 
denhorn (11,050'). In front of the 
main ridge, as seen from the NW., 


e g. from the Dundengrat, are seen 
three minor peaks which project as 
steep islets of rock from the great 
glacier-fields that cover that side of the 
mountain. These are the Wilde Frau 
(10,702'), Bliindisalpstock (10,564'), 
and Oeschinen Rothhorn (10,827'). 
The names adopted on the Federal 
Map, and those proposed by Dr. Roth, 
are here followed, saving the addi¬ 
tion made to the last, in order to avoid 
confusion with numerous other moun¬ 
tains bearing the same name. The two 
main feeders of the Bliimlisalp Glacier 
flow downwards through the openings 
between the three last-named summits, 
but a short branch from the ice-stream 
that descends between the Wilde Frau 
and the Blumlis Alpstock turns to the 
N., and flows into the head of the 
Kienthal. The two highest summits 
of the Blumlis Alp have each been 
once attained. The highest peak— 
Bliimlisalphorn—was ascended in 1860 
by Mr. Leslie Stephen, accompanied 
by Messrs. Liveing and Stone, with 
Melchior Anderegg and Pierre Simond 
of Argentiere as guides. Starting from 
the chalets of the Oeschinenalp at 
2 a. 51., they reached the ridge near the 
Dundengrat at 4.15. Then mounting 
over snowfields, and the glacier lying 
between the Wilde Frau and the Bliim- 
lisalpstock, they passed behind, or S., 
of the latter summit, and gained the 
depression between the Oeschinen 
Rothhorn and the highest peak at 6 . 1 0. 
£ From this point an arete (visible from 
Kandersteg) rises to the highest point, 
strongly resembling the last arete of the 
Jungfrau, but longer. We reached the 
top at 8 a. 5 i., and had a grand view 
down the cliffs to the Tschingel Gla¬ 
cier, as well as a very fine view over 
the Swiss plains, and a general pano¬ 
rama resembling that from the Altels, 
returning easily to Kandersteg by 
2 p.5i.’— [L. S.] 

The ascent of the Weisse Frau, 30 
ft. lower than its rival, was first effected 
in 1862 by Dr. Roth and M. v. Fellen- 
berg, and is described in the inte¬ 
resting volume noticed in Rte. A. 



44 


BERNESE ALPS. § 23 . GEMMI DISTRICT. 


Two previous attempts, made in 1859 
by M v. Fellenberg with two friends 
and four guides were defeated by bad 
weather; a M. Willener, from Berne, 
likewise failed in 1861. Under favour¬ 
able circumstances the expedition in¬ 
volves no unusual difficulty except the 
passage of an extremely narrow and 
steep arete of ice, which leads to the 
actual summit. The way is the same 
as that above described as leading to 
the Bliimlisalphorn, save that instead 
of passing behind the Bliimlisalpstock 
it is necessary to keep straight on 
towards SE. till a small patch of rock 
is reached which projects from the 
glacier just at the base of the Weisse 
Frau. The ascent is steep, but not 
difficult, except the final arete, which 
requires perfect steadiness and much 
caution on the part both of guides and 
travellers. The actual summit is a 
very narrow ridge of frozen snow, 
partly overhanging the precipice on 
the side of the Tschingel Glacier. A 
vigorous blow of the alpenstock sufficed 
to detach a huge fragment, which fell 
down the precipice to the glacier be¬ 
low. Starting before daylight from 
Kandersteg, Dr. Roth and his com¬ 
panion descended by the Kienthal, and 
reached Miihlinen at night, after an 
expedition of 19 hrs.] 


Route C. 

KANDERSTEG TO TURTMAN, OR VISP, 
BY THE LOTSCHEN PASS. 

11 hrs.’ walk to Turtman. 13 hrs. to Visp. 

This is a much rougher and more 
laborious way than that by the Gemmi 
Pass (Rte. A), nor can it be said to 
rival the descent from that pass to the 
Baths of Leuk, but as a substitute for 
those who wish to vary the route it is 
well worthy of attention. The scenery 
of the Gasterenthal, and the view 
from the summit of the pass are ex¬ 
tremely fine, and there is to moun¬ 
taineers the further inducement of the 


ascent of the Hockenhorn, which may 
be combined with the pass from Kan¬ 
dersteg to Ferden. Peter Kunzi of 
Selden, in the Gasterenthal, is a good 
guide. In fine weather a practised 
mountaineer may dispense with a guide. 

As mentioned in Rte. A, the junc¬ 
tion of the Gasterenthal with the 
Kanderthal is near to the bridge of 
Klus, £ hr. above Kandersteg. The 
path to the Gasterenthal here leaves 
the bridle-track to the Gemmi, and 
enters a savage and grand defile, cut 
deeply into the rocks which form the 
bases of the Altelsand the Doldenhorn. 
Huge blocks, in part ice-borne from 
the head of the valley, in part fallen 
from the cliffs on high, almost bar the 
passage through which the torrent 
brawls its way. About 2^ hrs. from 
Kandersteg, rendered short by the ex¬ 
treme grandeur of the scenery, the 
ascent commences on the S. slope of 
the valley, near the chalets of Im 
Selden (5,043') (§ 24, Rte. F). The 
slope is very steep, almost altoge¬ 
ther grass-grown, and 2 hrs. are re¬ 
quired to reach the base of the small 
glacier which descends from the col. 
The views of the head of the valley 
are here very grand. In some places 
may be seen remains of a paved mule- 
track. At a period whose exact date 
is not preserved, before the Gemmi was 
made easy of access, and before the 
glaciers had increased in this part of 
the Alps, as they undoubtedly have in 
the last two or three centuries, this 
appears to have been a frequented pass, 
perhaps at that time the only one prac¬ 
ticable for beasts of burden between 
the Grimsel and the Canton Vaud. 
The ascent is continued by the mo¬ 
raine and slopes of debris on the 1. 
bank of the glacier till this becomes 
less crevassed. After taking to the 
ice it is well to keep on the W. side 
of the glacier till the slope becomes 
gentler and the crevasses disappear. 
About 5f- hrs. from Kandersteg, ex¬ 
clusive of halts, must be allowed for 
reaching the Lotschen Pass (8,796'), 
often called Lotschenberg, commanding 





45 


ROUTE C. — LOTSCHEN PASS. 


a noble view of the snowy alps on the 
S. side of the Lotschenthal, and of 
the more distant peaks that encompass 
the valley of Zermatt. [The moun¬ 
taineer who has started early, and does 
not propose to go farther than Kippel, 
may reach the summit of the Hoc ken- 
horn (10,817'), also called Schildhorn, 
lying ENE. of the pass, and com¬ 
manding a grand panoramic view 
of the Bernese and Pennine Alps. The 
ascent will add fully 2j hrs. to the 
day’s walk. In approaching the peak 
from the Gasterenthal, the glacier 
should be traversed at once, and from 
its E. side the traveller may ascend 
directly to the summit. The descent 
may be made to the highest point of 
the Lotschen Pass, but care and a 
good guide are requisite, as there are 
steep slopes of frozen snow in the way.] 
Snow usually lies at the top of the 
pass, but a few minutes’ walk takes 
the traveller to the long slopes, at first 
bare and stony, then of Alpine pasture, 
that lead down towards the Lotschen¬ 
thal. The noble views of the Bietsch- 
horn and the head of the valley relieve 
n descent which would otherwise be 
monotonous. A fine larch wood is 
traversed, and in 2^ hrs., descending 
from the pass, the traveller reaches 

Ferden, a very poor-looking hamlet, 
with a wretched inn. Those who 
would reach good night-quarters will 
turn to the rt., and push on to Gampel, 
or Turtman. Travellers bound for the 
upper end of the Lotschenthal and the 
grand passes leading out of it, should 
go to Iiied, about 3^ m. above Ferden, 
where a little mountain inn was opened 
last year. There is no fresh meat to be 
had in the valley. The ciue of Kippel 
receives travellers, but the accommoda¬ 
tion is not good. See § 24, Rte. G. The 
very grand scenery of the Lotschenthal 
would doubtless make it a favourite re¬ 
sort of mountaineers if better accommo¬ 
dation were provided for strangers. The 
passes leading to the upper end of the 
Lotschenthal are described in § 24. 

A char-road has been completed for 
the greater part of the way from Fer¬ 


den to the valley of the Rhone, but the 
descent is so steep that it is not likely 
to be of much service to travellers. 
The way lies on the rt. bank of the 
Lonza, but before reaching the chapel 
of Goppenstein, repeatedly destroyed 
by avalanches and as often rebuilt, 
the valley turns due S., and the view of 
the head of the valley is lost to sight. 
The botanist may find Echinospermum 
deflexion in this part of the valley. The 
road crosses to the 1. bank, passes the 
chapel, and descends through a barren 
rocky gorge. The scenery is wild 
rather than grand; a considerable fall 
of the Lonza is passed on the rt., but 
as there is no object of special interest 
in view, it is with a feeling of relief 
that the traveller reaches the last steep 
descent that leads him down to the 
valley of the Rhone. The village of 
Gampel (Inn: zum Lotschenthal), with 
smelting-works connected with a mine 
that lies high up on the mountain, 
stands just at the point where the 
Lonza breaks out from its native val¬ 
ley, the hamlet on the 1. bank of the 
stream being called Steg. This is 
reached in 2 hrs. from Ferden. 

The traveller bound for Turtman 
should follow the char-road from Steg 
to the bridge over the Rhone, less 
than ^ m., and will thus reach the 
Simplon road about 1^ m. E. of Turt¬ 
man (Inns: Poste, good; Soleil, fair), 
more fully noticed in § 21, Rte. A. 
The pedestrian going to Visp may best 
keep to the rt. bank of the Rhone, 
passing Nieder Gestelen and Huron. 
Beyond the latter village a bridge 
over the Rhone enables him to join the 
Simplon road half-way between Turt¬ 
man and Visp (Inns: Soleil, good; 
boste, much improved, obliging land¬ 
lord), about 8 m. from Steg. 



46 BERNESE ALPS. § 2 

I 

Route D. 

BATHS OF LEUK TO FERDEN OR KIP- 
PEL. 

Until the last few years the ordinary 
way from the Baths of Leak to the 
Lotschenthal involved a considerable 
detour. Travellers descended the gorge 
of the Dalafrom the Baths to the town 
of Leuk, thence followed a char road 
by the rt. bank of the Rhone to Gam- 
pel, and there crossing the Lonza to 
Steg, ascended by the road leadrng from 
that place to Ferden. Three passes 
leading by a much more direct, if not 
shorter, course are now known to Al¬ 
pine travellers; and they all offer the 
advantage of being easily connected in 
the same day’s walk with the ascent of 
the Torrenthorn. The mass of moun¬ 
tain lying between the Baths and the 
Lower Lotschenthal may be considered 
as a promontory projecting southward 
from the main range of the Bernese 
Alps. The watershed is marked by a 
ridge, extending SSW. from the Ferden 
Rothhorn (10,258') and connecting that 
peak with three high points, lying very 
near together, whose highest and cen¬ 
tral point is the Resti Rothhorn (9,761'). 
Southward of the latter peak is the 
Laucherspitz (9.383'), and beyond this 
the Faldum Rothhorn (9,311'). To 
the S. of this the mass subsides rapidly 
towards the valley of the Rhone. The 
Torrenthorn (9,679'), so often visited 
from the Baths of Leuk (Rte. A) rises 
to the W. of the ridge connecting the 
above-named peaks. Though so easy 
of access from the W. side, this is ex¬ 
tremely steep in other directions, 
and none but practised mountaineers, 
with competent guides, should take the 
summit on the way to one or other of 
the passes named below. 

1. By the Faldum Pass. This is the 
lowest and apparently the easiest of the 
passes here described. It is most easily 
leached by the Leitern (Rte. A) and 
the hamlet of Albinen, 2 hrs. from the 
Baths. The pass lies between the Fal¬ 
dum Rothhorn and the Laucherspitz, 


! 3 . GEMMI DISTRICT. 

I and is probably about 8,000 ft. in 
height. It is reached by ascending a 
slope of debris. From the summit a 
rocky plateau slopes gently to the E., 
and as the traveller descends into the 
Faldnmthal he finds a track on the 1. 
bank of the stream leading to the cha¬ 
lets of the Faldum Alp. Kippel (§24, 
life. G) is reached in 4 hrs. from 
Albinen, or 6 hrs. from the Baths of 
Leuk. See a paper in the ‘Alpine Jour¬ 
nal,’ vol. ii. p. 91, by Mr. Brooksbank, 
who on his way took the summit of the 
Torrenthorn, and returned along the 
ordinary path from Leukerbad for 
about 18 min., then descending steep 
slopes of debris and bearing constantly 
to the 1. till he joined the ordinary 
way from Albinen to the cok 

2. Bp the Resti Pass. We give this 
name provisionally to the pass between 
the Laucherspitz and the Resti Roth¬ 
horn, sometimes traversed by local 
chamois hunters. It leads into the 
Restithal, a glen descending eastward, 
parallel to the Faldumthal. No par¬ 
ticulars respecting it have been re¬ 
ceived by the Editor. 

3. By the Ferden Pass. The Ferden 
Pass, also known as the Schneidschnur 
Pass, is higher and rather more difficult 
than those above-mentioned, probably 
also more interesting. The first re¬ 
liable information respecting this pass 
is due to the Rev. J. E. Millard, who 
traversed it in 1864 ; and the writer has 
received further particulars from Mr. 
Thursfield, who with Mr. Latham took 
this way in 1865 from Kippel to the 
Torrenthorn, having as guides Chris¬ 
tian Aimer, and Christian Ogi of Kan- 
dersteg, a man well acquainted with 
this district. 

On leaving Leukerbad by a path 
along the 1. bank of the Dala the tra¬ 
veller reaches in about f hr. the chalets 
of the Fliih Alp. The way then crosses 
alow ridge bounding the hollow enclo¬ 
sing the lower end of the Dala Glacier. 
A long and steep ascent, chiefly over 
slopes of debris to the rt. of the travel¬ 
ler’s previous course, leads to the pass 
(8,625'?) in less than 4 hrs. from the 



ROUTE E.—THE STRUBELECK. 


47 


Baths. The view extends in one direc¬ 
tion to Mont Biauc, and on the opposite 
side to the peaks enclosing the Lotsch- 
enthal. A very steep descent leads 
to a small glacier at the head of the 
Ober Ferdenthal. A rough track 
through that glen leads past the Kura- 
meustaffel, and joins the path from 
Ferden or Kippel to the Lotschen Pass. 
To reach the Ober Ferdenthal from the 
Torrenthorn it is necessary to descend 
to the Maing Glacier, cross the rid^e 
between this and the Ober Ferden 
Glacier, and so join the ordinary course. 
This way is sometimes rather difficult. 

Another way between Leuk and 
Kippel is indicated in the ‘Alpine Jour¬ 
nal ’ by Messrs. Malkin and Martineau. 
They mounted from Kippel to a pass at 
the extreme NK. end of the Dala valley, 
by a rock (called Milderstein?) visible 
from Leukerbad Instead of descend¬ 
ing thither, they made a second pass to 
Schwarenbach, between the Rinderhorn 
aud Plattenhorn. 

Route E. 

THUN TO SIERRE, BV ADELBODEN, AND 
THE STRUBELECK. 

It appears certain that at one time a 
pass from Adelboden to Sierre in the 
Valais was once well known to the in¬ 
habitants on either side, but has been 
allowed to fall out of use and memory 
in recent times. Mountaineers attempt¬ 
ing the pass should take a local guide 
from Adelboden. 

At the village of Frutigen, 4f leagues 
from Thun (Rte. A), the Engstliyen- 
tlial, descending from SSW., joins the 
main valley of the Kander. It is 
a narrow glen, rarely traversed by 
strangers, but containing many scat¬ 
tered hamlets. The lower part is rich 
with meadows and forests, the upper 
end rugged and stern. The name 
Adelbodtn , derived from a great tourna¬ 
ment which tradition declares to have 
been held here, is sometimes applied 
to the entire valley, but usually to a 
group of hamlets reached by a char- 


road in 3 hrs. from Frutigen. The 
chief group of houses, where stands the 
church and a poor inn (Biir), is 4,452 
ft. above the sea. The paths to Kan- 
dersteg and An der Lenk are described 
in Rte. G. About hr. above the 
village is a fine fall of the Engstli- 
genbach. The head of the valley due 
S. of Adelboden is enclosed by ranges 
of precipitous rocks, surmounted by 
glittering pinnacles of ice apparently 
presenting an insuperable barrier to 
further progress. The hunters of the 
valley are acquainted with at least 
one passage by which the rocks may 
be scaled. It is said that the highest 
chalets near the foot of the rocks are 4 
hrs. from Adelboden, and 2 or 3 hrs. 
more should probably be allowed for 
the ascent of the rocks. By this ap¬ 
parently difficult route, and by a pass 
at the summit called Strubelcc/t, the 
traveller will gain access to the great 
ice plateau sloping to the E. from the 
summit of the Wildstrubel towards the 
Gemmi, which is mainly occupied by 
the extensive Lammeren Glacier (Rte. 
H). The ice-field is not, however, 
quite continuous; it is divided by a 
transverse ridge, and one portion falls 
slightly towards the S., sending its 
drainage down towards the Raspilly 
torrent which joins the Rhone near 
Sierre. When the traveller has gained 
the upper level of the Lammeren 
Glacier he should cross it towards the 
SW., steering for a slight depression 
in the ridge which bounds it on that 
side. This is the Lammerenjoch of 
Mr. F. J. Hort, who crossed this way 
from Schwarenbach to Sierre, and ap¬ 
parently also the Col du Schneehorn 
of some Swiss guide-books, where this 
pass is evidently not described from 
personal observation. 

4 The view from the Col is very fine 
and extensive. From a point a little 
to the S. there is a steep descent to the 
large and very remarkable almost flat 
basin of neve called Glacier de la 
Elaine Morte. There appeared to be 
three possible outlets on the S. side ; 
the middle one we (including M. 





48 


BERNESE ALPS. § ‘ 

Auderegg) thought the most pro¬ 
mising. It proved quite easy; but 
some little way d.iwn towards the 
head of the valley we were stopped by 
finding ourselves at the edge of a range 
of precipices like those of the Gemmi, 
but smaller. We lost some time in 
seeking a way down; but succeeded 
at last by keeping to the steep slope of 
screes on the rt. bank of the stream. 
Below the precipices the Raspillythal 
is of no particular interest.’—[F. J. H.] 
Allowing for the time lost by Mr. 
Hort’s party, from 5^ to 6 hrs. seem to 
be required to reach Sierre from the 
col between the Glacier of Lammeren 
and that of La Plaine Morte. A 
traveller attempting the pass from the i 
Engstligenthal should either sleep at 
the highest chalets, or start from Adel- 
boden some time before daylight, as it 
would be prudent to allow for some 
loss of time in seeking for the track. 


Route F. 

THUN TO SION, OR SIERRE, BY THE 
RAWYL PASS. 

There are several routes from Thun 
to An der Lenk at the N. base of the 
Rawyl Pass, and on the S. side there 
are two paths leading to Sion, and a 
third by which the traveller may reach 
Sierre. In any case two days must 
be allowed for the journey between 
Thun and the valley of the Rhone. 

1. By Ziveisimmen. To An der Lenk, 
11^ leagues by char-road. Thence to 
Sion, 11 hrs. by bridle-path. 10^ hrs. 
by loot-path; to Sierre, 11^ hrs. by 
foot-path. 

The way from Thun to Zweisimmen 
is described in § 22, Rte. G. Here 
the Ober Simmenthal, bearing down 
the drainage of the glaciers of the 
Wildstrubel and the Wildhorn, joins 
the lesser branch of that stream and 
the road from Saanen. The way to 
An der Lenk lies through the main 
valley, a distance of rather less than 3 


23 . GEMMI DISTRICT. 

hrs.’ walk, by a good char-road. Thi- 
crosses the Simme opposite Zwcisim 
men, passes the Castle of Blankenburg 
and the hamlet of Matten, and in 3 
m. more reaches An der Lenk (Inns: 
Sterne; Krone; both very fair; Bar— 
also at the Baths, outside the village, 
better quarters than at the inns), beauti¬ 
fully situated, 3,527 ft. above the sea, 
near the head of the Simmenthal, at 
the NW. base of a mass of snowy 
mountains, whose highest summit is 
the Wildstrubel (10,715'). This place 
affords excellent head-quarters for a 
mountaineer, being well situated for 
several interesting excursions, several 
of which are described by Mr. Hinehliff 
i in the first series of ‘ Peaks, Passes, 
and Glaciers.’ 

A short way S. of the village is the 
junction of the two principal sources 
of the Simme. That descending from 
the Rawyl Pass, due S. of An der Lenk, 
flows through a branch of the val¬ 
ley called Iffiyenthal , while the other 
shorter stream flows from the glaciers 
of the Wildstrubel SE. of the village. 
The two streams are divided by the 
green slopes of the Laubhorn, a pro¬ 
montory extending N. from the group 
of peaks whose highest summits are the 
Laufbodenhorn (8,901'), the Glelscher- 
horn (9,629'),and the Weisshorn (9,882'). 
The excursion most frequently made 
from An der Lenk is through the SE. 
branch of the valley. Ladies may go 
most of the way In a char. A pleasant 
walk of 1^ hr., passing the hamlet of 
Oberried, and near to some pretty falls 
of the Simme, suffices to reach the end 
of the glen, at the base of the Amer- 
tenhorn (8,727'), a massive buttress 
projecting on the NW. side of the 
Wildstrubel. To the rt., at a gre-at 
height, sustained by a range of very- 
steep rocks, is seen the JRazli Glacier , 
which descends from the snowfields 
lying between the Gletscherhorn and 
the Wildstrubel. A slight ascent leads 
to some chalets, above which, at the 
very base of the rocks, several copious 
springs break out from the rock. 
Though more than seven in number 




ROUTE F.—RAWYL PASS. 


49 


these are called Sieben Rrunnen. The 
water, which must have traversed in¬ 
terior fissures in the limestone, is 
partly derived from the melting of the 
Razli Glacier, and partly from a small 
lake, called Fluh-See, near its base, 
lying above the barrier of rock. 
Though apparently difficult, there is 
a path known to the shepherds for 
ascending the very steep rocks below 
the Fluh-See ; by this way the ascent 
of the Wildstrubel may probably be 
accomplished in less time than by the 
Amerten Glacier. The last-named 
glacier lies on the E. side of the 
Amertenhorn, and may be reached 
from Oberried, bearing due E. along 
the base of the precipitous N. face of 
the mountain. (See Rte. H.) 

[The ascent of the Wildhoni (10,722'), 
the highest point in the range of the 
Bernese Alps W. of the Gemmi, is 
most easily made from An der Lenk. 
The best plan is to pass the night at 
the chalets of Stieren-Iffigen, near the 
head of the Iffigenthal, 4 hrs. from 
An der Lenk. The peak of the Wild- 
horn, which is steeply cut away on its 
S. and W. sides, has a long, gradually 
sloping ridge extending towards the 
N. The W. slope of this ridge sends 
its snows to contribute to the Gelten 
Glacier, while on the E. side lies the 
Dungel Glacier. The two glaciers 
meet in a slight depression in the 
ridge, N. of which it rises again to 
form the Hahnenschritthorn. Whe¬ 
ther the Wildhorn be approached from 
Lauenen or from An der Lenk, the 
most convenient course is to gain the 
above-mentioned depression or col. 
The ascent from Lauenen (§ 22, Rte. E) 
.'s steep and rather difficult, that from 
the head of the Iffigenthal is much 
easier. The last part, up a rather 
steep snow-slope, may require a little 
step-cutting when the snow is frozen 
hard. From the col the ascent along 
the ridge leading to the summit seems 
to be quite free from difficulty. M. 
G. Studer considers the view of the 
Pennine Alps from this peak to be 
the finest and most complete attainable 

PART II. 1 


from any point on the N. side of that 
great range. From 3 to 4 hrs. should 
suffice to reach the top from the highest 
Iffigen chalets.] 

The chief passes leading to and from 
An der Lenk are described in the two 
following Rtes. In crossing the Rawyl 
Pass it is advisable even for practised 
mountaineers to take a guide. The 
way is little traversed, and the track of 
former travellers over the plateau at the 
summit is readily effaced, so that a 
stranger, especially in cloudy weather, 
might very readily miss his way and 
be entangled in serious difficulties. 

The char-road through the Iffigen¬ 
thal is carried for about 3 m. above 
An der Lenk; the way lies at some 
height above the torrent, through very 
beautiful scenery. Cisiopteris montana 
is here unusually abundant. ‘ The 
solitary traveller should beware of 
losing time by crossing a tempting 
bridge about half-way to Iffigen, a 
little below a very picturesque water¬ 
fall.’-[M.] 

After more than hr. walk the 
hamlet of Iffigen, with a small inn. is 
reached. The valley bends to the W., 
and the mountain on the S. rises so 
steeply that a stranger would never sup¬ 
pose it to be traversed by a safe path for 
men and beasts of burden. The way 
lies by zigzags, and then along ledges 
of very steep rock. In two places rivu¬ 
lets fall in spray across the path, and in 
wet weather those who pass receive an 
involuntary shower-bath. The track 
on this side has been so far improved 
that there is no risk in riding animals 
well used to mountain work, but ladies 
descending this way would do wisely to 
cross the more difficult part on foot. 
About 2 it hrs. are necessary to reach 
the cross which marks the limits of the 
Cantons Berne and Valais. The Rawyl 
Pass, 7,943 It. in height, is formed by 
a nearly level plateau, more than 2 m. 
in breadth, cut into hillocks and gullies 
by the working of the elements on 
friable slate rocks. Patches of snow 
and small pools of water, with one 
larger basin forming a little lake, vary 





50 


BERNESE ALPS. § 23. GEMMI DISTRICT. 


the dreary surface, which is all but 
utterly bare of vegetation. The Weiss- 
horn to the NE., and the Mittaghorn 
on the W., do not rise boldly enough 
to relieve the monotony of the scene, 
and the traveller calls to mind the 
descriptions of some wild Lapland 
wastes, rather than the ordinary cha¬ 
racteristics of an Alpine pass. Keep¬ 
ing well to W. of S. across the plateau, 
the traveller gains it3 southern verge, 
and suddenly enjoys a fine view of the 
Pennine Alps on the S. side of the 
Rhone valley. A moderately steep 
and rough path leads down the slope, 
at the base of which two considerable 
torrents burst forth from the face of the 
mountain. In about 6^- hrs.’ steady 
walking, exclusive of halts, from An der 
Lenk, the chalets of Rawin (Fr. Les 
Ravins) are reached; here milk and 
fresh butter may usually be obtained. 

From this point, at the head of the 
valley of the Riere torrent, three ways 
are offered to the travellers choice. 
The mule-track to Sion keeps to the rt., 
and makes rather a considerable as¬ 
cent, followed by a descent into a glen 
enclosed between rocks and pines. 
Thenceforward the path is canned 
along the slope of the mountain on the 
rt. bank of the valley, till a sharp turn 
round a rocky point opens out a view 
of the valley of the Rhone, and then 
descends, chiefly through forest, to the 
hamlet of Ayent, where the cure gives 
strangers lodging or refreshment. Here 
Mr. Hinehliff found a competent guide 
for the pass in the person of a drummer, 
or tambour-major. Guides are not easily 
found at Sion or Sierre. Fine views 
over the Valais lighten the way, and in 
2 hrs. from A vent, or 4A hrs. from the 
chalets, the traveller reaches Sion. 
When travelling in the opposite direc¬ 
tion, 5 hrs. at least should be allowed, 
irrespective of a halt at Ayent, which 
is usually given to the mules. The 
ascent being very hot in summer, a 
pedestrian cannot start too early from 
Sion. 

There is a short cut in the descent of 
the valley from the chalets of Rawin, 


which avoids the ascent on the rt. bank 
of the torrent, and saves above ^ hr., 
but unless the traveller has learned 
from experience that he can place per¬ 
fect confidence in the steadiness of his 
head, he ought not to attempt the pas¬ 
sage. The people of the Valais, being 
exposed to suffer from want of water 
on the hot slopes that overlook the 
valley of the Rhone, are distinguished 
for the industry and enterprise which 
they exhibit in leading streams of 
water from the higher mountains to 
irrigate their fields and meadows. Be¬ 
sides ordinary channels for running 
water, often carried for many miles 
along the slopes of the mountains, they 
convey the fluid in troughs formed of 
hollowed pine trunks over obstacles 
otherwise impassable. It is not un¬ 
common to see these troughs carried 
along the face of a precipice, attached 
to the rock by wooden pegs fixed in 
crevices. These channels and troughs 
—called Wasserleiter —are character¬ 
istic of the Valais, and are seen in every 
part of the Canton. The water ob¬ 
tained at the head of the glen of the 
Riere, and destined to irrigate the 
slopes about Ayent, is carried through 
the deep and narroAV ravine below the 
chalets in the manner above described 
by troughs fastened to the precipitous 
rocks that overhang the torrent. Find¬ 
ing that the same course would much 
shorten the way between the chalets 
and the lower part of the valley, ad¬ 
vantage was taken of the work to carry 
a very narrow path by the side of the 
water-troughs. In one place the rock 
actually overhangs, and it is necessary 
to stoop in order to avoid striking the 
head against it, while in others the way 
lies over loose planks, through the 
chinks of which the dark torrent is seen 
at a great depth below. Though seem¬ 
ingly rickety, no instance of any fatal 
accident from the passage of this path 
has been recorded. 

The way from the Rawin chalets to 
Sierre lies by the 1. bank of the Riere, 
on the opposite side to both the tracks 
leading to Sion. It is fatiguing from 




ROUTE G.-KANDERS1EG TO LAUENEN. 


51 


the number of ravines which must be 
crossed, each involving a considerable 
descent, followed by a corresponding 
ascent; and the walk from An der Lenk 
to Sierre is longer than is desirable, 
except for pedestrians in thorough 
training. At Lens the traveller gains 
a fine view of the Rhone valley. A 
little farther on is Chermignon, and in 
the descent to Sierre the botanist will 
be pleased to find Genista radiata, and 
other southern species, announcing a 
marked difference between the climate 
of the Valais and that of the Canton 
Berne. 

2. By the Diemtigen Thai and Grim- 
vd Pass. 3 leagues to Latterbach by 
carriage-road; 9^ hrs. thence to An der 
Lenk. This is an alternative route 
for pedestrians going from Thun to 
An der Lenk, or to Zweisimmen. To 
reach the former place conveniently in 
the day it would be advisable to take 
the diligence or a char to Latterbach, 
on the high-road of the Simmenthal, 
9 m. from Thun. On the opposite 
side of the Simme is the opening of 
the Diemtigen Thai. After crossing, 
first, the Simme, and then the Chirel, 
which drains the latter valley, a path 
mounts to the village of Diemtigen , 
where there is a country inn: The 
pastoral valley which takes its name 
from this village lies between moun¬ 
tains about 7,000 ft. in height. It has 
many branches, through which lie 
passes of no difficulty leading in va¬ 
rious directions. The highest neigh¬ 
bouring summit is the Mannlifluh 
(8,734'), lying between the two main 
branches of the valley which unite 
about ^ hr. above Diemtigen. At 
JYarrenbach, 2^ hrs. from Latterbach, 
a path leads SW. across the moun¬ 
tains in 5 hrs. to Zweisimmen, serving 
to vary the route between that plase 
and Thun for those who have already 
seen the Simmenthal, The way to 
An der Lenk lies up the main branch 
of the valley to Thiermatten, 4 hrs. 
from Latterbach, where there is an 
inn. A number of short glens descend 
towards the head of the valley. The 

E 


way lies by that lying due S., and 
following' that direction the traveller 
will, in 2^ hrs. from Thiermatten, 
reach the summit of the Grimmi Pass 
(6,234'), commanding a pleasing view 
of the Fermelthal, a pastoral glen 
which descends to the Obersimmen- 
thal, on the W. side of the Albristliorn 
(9,078'). Two houi’s suffice to reach 
Matten from the top of the pass, and 1 
hr. more will take the traveller to 
An der Lenk. 

3. By Adelboden. 7f leagues by 
ehar-road to Adelboden; 4 hrs. bv 
mule-track thence to An der Lenk. 

The way from Thun to Adelboden 
is described in Rte. A ; for that from 
Adelboden to An der Lenk, see next 
Rte. 

Route G. 

KANDERSTEG TO LAUENEN, BY ADEL¬ 
BODEN AND AN DER LENK. 

Kandersteg to Adelboden, 5| or 6 hrs. on foot; 

thence to Lauenen, hrs. by mule-path. 

Combined with the way from the Val 
des Ormouds to Lauenen, described in 
§ 22, Rte. F, this offers to a pedestrian 
wishing to keep to the higher valleys 
during hot weather a route by which 
he may reach Kandersteg from the Val 
des Ormonds in two days’ rather hard 
walking. But it Avould be better to 
give several days to the expedition, so 
as to enjoy the fine scenery of the 
neighbourhood of An der Lenk and 
Adelboden. A local guide is wanted 
between Kandersteg and Adelboden. 
A still more interesting way for the 
mountaineer by Schwarenbach, practi¬ 
cable in a long day from Kandersteg, is 
found in the next Rte. 

About 1 m. above Kandersteg the 
path to Adelboden by the Bonder 
Grat turns off to the rt. from the 
Gemmi road; after ascending for more 
than an hour the path reaches some 
chalets, above which is a range of 
precipitous rocks, the steepest part of 
which is scaled by the help of a long 
ladder. Above the rocks the ascent 
2 




52 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§2 

continues rather steeply, till in about 
3 hrs. the ridge of the Bonder Grat. is j 
attained. It commands a very fine view 
of the Oberland peaks. On the W. side 
of the pass, after traversing an extensive 
rocky hollow, the traveller overlooks j 
the Engstligenthal, and descends by j 
slopes of debris to the highest chalets. 
The way is thenceforward easy, bearing' 
somewhat to the I., and traversing j 
several patches of pine-forest. The ] 
Engstligenthal is reached nearly a mile 
below Adelboden (Rte. E). [There is 
a longer but easier way by a pass some 
miles N. of the Bonder Grat.] 

The way from Adelboden to An der 
Lenk by the Hahnenmoos is easy and 
agreeable. The mule-track is well 
marked, and passes by several groups 
of chalets. One of these is close to the 
summit of the pass, 6,404 ft. in height. 
An der Lenk (Rte. F) is reached in 
hrs. from Adelboden. A longer but 
more interesting way, which takes the 
traveller by the base of the Amerten- 
horn and the Sieben Brunnen (see last 
Rte.), turns aside from the direct path 
at a hamlet called Geilsbacb, and fol¬ 
lows a lateral glen to SW. Crossing 
the ridge N. of the Amerten Grat by 
a depression, 6,660 ft. in height, the 
track descends to the Amerten chalets, 
not far from the Siebeu Brunnen. 
From 5 to 6 hrs. are necessary to reach 
An der Lenk by this route. 

The way from An der Lenk to Lau- 
enen, over the Triittlisberg, is by a 
short lateral glen opening W. of the 
village. The best track — passable 
for laden mules—mounts on the N. 
side of the glen, and in 2^ hrs. reaches 
a plateau where stands a group of cha¬ 
lets, called Ober-Staffel. Nearly an¬ 
other hr. is required to reach the 
Triittlisberg Pass (6,235'). The de¬ 
scent on the W. side is rapid and ra¬ 
ther steep, and H hr. suffices to reach 
Lauenen (§ 22, Rte. E). Though 
not rising to grandeur, the scenery of 
the Truttlisberg is very pleasing, and 
fine views of the neighbouring Alps 
are gained from many points in the 
way. If bound for Gsteig, the traveller 


3. 


GEMMI DISTRICT. 


may save a few minutes by traversing 
the valley of Lauenen from the base 
of the Truttlisberg to the path leading 
to the Chrinnen Pass (§ 22, Rte. F), 
without entering the village. 


Route H. 

BATHS OF LEUK TO AN DER LENK- 

ASCENT OF THE WILDSTRUBEL. 

10 to 11 hrs. from the B iths; 2 hrs. less from 
Schwarenbach. 

The first edition of this work con¬ 
tained an account of the way from 
Schwarenbach to An der Lenk, by the 
Lammeren Glacier, first described by 
Mr. T. W. Hinchliff. Another rather 
shorter way is given in the ‘ Alpine 
Journal,’ vol. ii., where, by a mistake, 
the time is under-estimated by 1 hr. 

The old track leading to the Gemini 
Pass lay on the W. side of the Dauben 
See. This is followed for some dis¬ 
tance, and then, bearing to the W., the 
traveller gains a view of the Lammer¬ 
en Glacier. Following a sheep-track 
along the slope of the mountain, at a 
considerable height above the glacier, 
its N. bank may be reached in 2 hrs. 
from Schwarenbach at a point some 
distance above the lower and more 
crevassed portions of the ice-stream. 
After threading the way along the 
middle, through crevasses on either 
side, the traveller reaches the upper 
plateau of the Lammeren Glacier. 

There is some confusion about the 
topography of the tract of mountain 
and glacier lying between the Gemmi 
and Rawyl Passes. The mountain 
range may be compared to a great 
rampart, showing very steep, almost 
vertical, faces on the N. side towards 
the Engstligenthal and the head of 
the Simmenthal, and on the S. towards 



KOUTE II.-ASCENT OF THE WILDSTRUBEL. 


the valleys that descend to the Rhone. 
The whole summit of this rampart is 
coated over with glacier and snow- 
fields, sloping away to the E. and S. 
from the summit of the Wildstrubel. 
According to the maps, five separate 
glaciers radiate from this peak. Of 
these, the Amerten and Razli Glaciers, 
on the N. and NW. side, descend in 
steep ice-falls towards the Simmenthal. 
The Glacier <le la Plaine Morte, on the 
S. side of the peak, lias its outlet 
towards the Raspillythal, which joins 
the Rhone valley near Sierre. Lastly, 
the L'dmmeren Glacier, much the largest 
of all, descends directly from the sum¬ 
mit of the Wildstrubel nearly to the 
Dauben See. Between the two last, 
on the SE. side of the mountain, the 
maps exhibit a fifth—the Wildstrubel 
Glacier —of dimensions not inferior to 
either of them. The writer is dis¬ 
posed to believe this an error, and to 
suspect that all the neve formed on 
the E. and S. flanks of the Wildstru¬ 
bel is ultimately borne either to the 
Glacier of Liimmeren, or to that of 
La Plaine Morte. 

From the upper plateau of the Liim- 
meren Glacier, the highest peak of the 
Wildstrubel is seen rising by a gentle 
slope of neve. To the N., between 
that mountain and the Steghorn (?) is 
the Strubeleck (Rte. E), by which the 
hunters of the Engstligenthal gain ac¬ 
cess to the glacier; and on the 1. lies the 
depression by which it is easy to pass 
to the Glacier de la Plaine Morte, and 
60 descend to the valley of the Rhone. 

From the plateau the ascent is easy, 
avoiding a few large crevasses, and 
in little more than 4 hrs. from Schwa- 
renbach the traveller may attain the 
highest point of the Wildstrubel 
(10,715'). In addition to a noble 
Alpine panorama, including all the 
highest peaks of the Pennine and 
Bernese Alps, except the Jungfrau 
which is hid by the Altels, the view 
has the especial advantage of plunging 
down directly into the head of the 
Simmenthal, so that the houses in the 
village of An der Lenk are easily dis-J 


tinguished. The easiest line of descent 
to An der Lenk is to pass along the 
snow-ridge to the second peak, only 62 
ft. lower than the first, and then follow 
the W. slope of the mountain, down to 
the verge of the Razli Glacier. Bear¬ 
ing round to the rt., a wild stony hol¬ 
low between the Wildstrubel and the 
Amertenhorn is soon reached. There 
seems to be no difficulty in descending 
thence to the lower part of the Amer¬ 
ten Glacier, whence a foot-track is 
soon found that leads to Oberried and 
An der Lenk. Under favourable cir¬ 
cumstances 8:V hrs. from Schwarenbach, 
exclusive of halts, would suffice for this 
interesting expedition. 

Another way from Schwarenbach or 
Leukerbad to An der Lenk is to mount 
from the N. end of the Dauben See to 
a depression in the ridge S. of theFels- 
enhorn, near a projecting tooth of rock, 
and thence descend to the llothe Kumni 
Glacier. Crossing this, and bearing to 
1 ., a second pass is effected at a point just 
on the S. side of a massive projecting 
block of yellow limestone, reached in 2 
hrs. from the Dauben See. The traveller 
now looks down on a wild hollow, 
forming the uppermost end of the Engst¬ 
ligenthal, just under the Wildstrubel. 
This is crossed, and in 2^ hrs. more a 
third ascent leads to the summit of the 
ridge that encloses the Amerten Gl. 
on the E. side. A long but not diffi¬ 
cult descent by steep slopes of turf and 
shattered shale now follows, and the 
path to An der Lenk is joined about 
£ hr. below the Sieben Brunnen. By 
this way that village is reached in 3 hrs. 
from the ridge, or 7^ hrs.’ actual walk¬ 
ing from the Dauben See. [There is 
a pleasant and short way—scarcely 
5 hrs.—from Schwarenbach to Adel- 
boden, by a faintly traced path that 
crosses the ridge N. of the Felsenhorn, 
and descends into the head of the 
Ueschinenthal near the foot of the 
Rothe Kumm Gl. It then mounts the 
opposite slope to the ridge N. of the 
Thierhorn, and descends on the other 
side close to the fall of the Engstligen- 
bach. 





54 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§ 24 . BERNESE OBERLAND. 


SECTION 24. 

BERNESE OBERLAND. 

In describing the chain of the Pennine 
Alps it was observed that the region 
where, taking into account the extent, 
height, and number of the mountain 
ridges, the disturbing forces seem to 
have acted with most intensity, is that 
which has Monte Rosa for its centre. 
It was further remarked, that in the 
same district the general direction of 
the ridges and principal valleys which 
predominates throughout the Pennine 
chain—that from WSW. to ENE.—has 
been interfered with by forces that have 
impressed a N. and S. direction on the 
main ridges of the Monte Rosa group. 
It is somewhat remarkable that the 
Bernese Alps running parallel to the 
Pennine chain should have their maxi¬ 
mum elevation and extent in the part 
of the range nearly due N. of the Monte 
Rosa, and that we should here find, 
though in a less marked degree, the 
evidence of forces that have upraised 
some of the highest ridges in a direc¬ 
tion transverse to that of the axis of 
the chain. This is especially seen in the 
ridges enclosing the several branches 
of the Aar Glacier, which run from 
WNW. to ESE. 

The most remarkable characteristic, 
however, in the orography of the cen¬ 
tral group of the Bernese Alps is, that 
whereas the W. portion of that chain, 
described in the last two sections, con¬ 
sists of a single series of summits with 
comparatively short projecting but¬ 
tresses, the higher group presents a 
series of longitudinal ridges parallel 
to the axis of the main chain, and se¬ 
parated from each other by deep val¬ 
leys that form the channels of great 
glaciers. Thus the Tschingel Glacier 
and the Gasterenthal, separate the por¬ 
tion of the main range lying between 
the Gemmi and the Mittaghorn from 
the equally hign parallel range of the 
Doldenhorn and Bliimlis Alp on its N. 
side. To the S. the same portion of 
the main range is divided from the still 
higher parallel range whose summits 


are the Aletsclihorn and the Bietsch- 
horn by the Lbtschenthal andLotschen 
Glacier. To this again succeeds the 
deep trench through which the lower 
part of the Aletsch Glacier flows down 
to the Rhone, enclosed by the minor 
ridge that culminates in the Aeggisch- 
horn. 

The grandeur and beauty of the 
scenery of this district, which is best 
known as the Bernese Oberland, have 
long obtained for it a just celebrity; 
and since strangers first began to visit 
the Alps, the names of Grindelwald, 
Lauterbrunnen, and Interlaken have 
been famous. It was long, however* 
before the interior portion of the range, 
and the great glaciers that flow down 
towards the Rhone on its southern 
flanks, were known and appreciated by 
strangers. Unlike the inhabitants of 
the French and Piedmontese Alps, the 
Swiss do not mainly owe to foreigners 
the knowledge of the grandest scenery 
of their native land. The first, in this 
century, to lead the way in the explo¬ 
ration of the Oberland were the brothers 
Meyer of Aarau. They were followed 
by Hugi, who displayed great enter¬ 
prise and perseverance at a time when 
a mountaineer had to contend against 
ignorance and prejudice as well as the 
inherent difficulties of his pursuit. In 
1841 M. Agassiz, with several scientific 
friends, established a temporary dwell¬ 
ing on the Aar Glacier, and, along 
with scientific observations on the gla¬ 
ciers, commenced a series of expedi¬ 
tions, continued at intervals by himself 
and his companions, which are re¬ 
counted in two volumes published by 
M. Desor, entitled, ‘Excursions et Se- / 
jours dans les Glaciers,’ and ‘ Nouvelles 
Excursions,’ &e. Much additional in¬ 
formation regarding the Oberland Alps 
is contained in M. Gottlieb Studer’s 
volume, entitled, ‘TopographischeMit- 
theilungen aus dem Alpengebirge.’ 
Notwithstanding the activity of their 
predecessors, the members of the En¬ 
glish Alpine Club have found scope for 
further exploits, amongst which may 
be reckoned the first ascents of the 




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BERNESE OBERLAND. 


55 


Aletschhorn and the Schreckhorn, and 
the still more arduous enterprise of 
crossing the range by passes, hereafter 
described, which must certainly be 
reckoned amongst the most formidable 
that have been effected in the Alps. 

It might have appeared convenient 
to describe, in different sections, the 
portions of the Oberland group be¬ 
longing to the Canton Berne, and those 
lying on the S. side of the water-shed 
in the Canton Valais. But here, as 
elsewhere, it is found that the main 
valleys form the natural divisions of a 
mountain country, and it seems best to 
include in the present section the entire 
region bounded on the S. by the Rhone, 
on the E. by the valley of Hasli and the 
Grimsel, and on the N. by the lakes 
of Thun and Brienz. To the W. the 
boundary, not so well defined, corre¬ 
sponds nearly with a line drawn from 
Gampel in the valley of the Rhone 
over the Lotschen Pass to the Blixmlis 
Alp, and thence through the Kienthal 
to the Lake of Thun. It will be con¬ 
venient to include also a slight notice 
of the minor ranges on the N. side of 
the lakes of Thun and Brienz. 

There is no part of the Alps where 
arrangements for the accommodation 
of foreign visitors, and for extracting 
at the same time the utmost possible 
amount of coin from their pockets, are 
so completely organised as in this dis¬ 
trict, and especially in the valleys be¬ 
longing to the Canton Berne. On the 
one hand it is of no little convenience 
to a stranger to find inns more or less 
comfortable at almost every spot where 
he can reasonably desire to pass the 
night, along with guides and abundant 
means of conveyance; but, on the other, 
it is not pleasant to find the entire 
population banded together with no 
other seeming object than to make a 
profit out of his passage. Along the 
frequented tracks of the Great Scheid- 
egg and the Wengern Alp, the way¬ 
farer is at every half-mile assailed by 
some new appeal to his pocket. Some¬ 
times it is by a live chamois or marmot, 
sometimes by an echo to be awaked 


by a horn, or a chorus of discordant 
children’s voices; anon it is by bits of 
pyrites or quartz, or by specimens of 
wood carving, that toll is levied on the 
stranger; but the most effectual and 
simplest device is to put a wooden gate 
across his track, and keep a ragged 
child in readiness to open the gate on 
his approach, and tender its palm for 
the reward. The best way to save wear 
and tear of temper and good humour, is 
to be provided with a moderate supply 
of small coin, and suppress all out¬ 
bursts of virtuous indignation. 

It is probably for the advantage oi 
foreigners that the Cantonal authorities 
should have established the tariff for 
carriages, horses, &c., as well as regu¬ 
lations for the guides which are in force 
on the Bernese side of the range. In 
regard to the regulations in force in 
the Valais, the reader is referred to 
the Introduction to this Chapter. The 
principal items of the Oberland Tariff 
are here inserted for the convenience 
of travellers. There is one general 
provision not commonly adopted else¬ 
where which enables tourists to make 
part of an expedition in a carriage, and 
then to use the horse, or horses, for 
riding to some desired point. 

In default of special rates fixed by 
tariff, the ordinary daily charge for a 
carriage with one horse is 13 fr.—with 
two horses, 25 fr. Carriages with one 
horse hired for a short drive, not 
specified in the tariff, cost 

fr. cent. 

For one league (Stund) and return . 3 0 

„ two leagues.4 50 

„ three leagues . . . .55 

„ four leagues.6 0 

and double the above rates for a car¬ 
riage with two horses. 

Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen and re¬ 
turn, delaying not more than 3 hrs.— 

Carriage with one horse . 9 fr. 

„ „ two horses . 17 „ 

Same excursion, delaying more than 
2 hrs., ordinary day’s rate. 

Interlaken to Grindelwald and return 
on same day— 

Carriage with one horse . . 14 fr. 

„ „ two horses . 25 „ 






56 BERNESE ALPS. § 

returning on the following day— 

Carriage with one horse . 25 fr. 

„ „ two horses . 45 „ 

Interlaken to Ziveiliitschinen only— 

Carriage with one horse . 7 fr. 

,, „ two horses . 12 „ 

Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, thence to 
Grindelwald by road, and return same 
day— 

Carriage with one horse . 17 fr. 

„ ,, two horses . 30 ,, 

Employing two days, the rates are 25 
and 45 fr. 

Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, thence to 
Grindelwald by the Wengern Alp , using 
the same horses, and return to Inter¬ 
laken on same day— 

Carriage with one horse . 20 fr. 

„ „ two horses . 40 „ 

Employing two days— 

Carriage with one horse . 25 fr. 

„ „ two horses . 55 ,, 

In addition to the above rates, there 
is a charge of 5 fr. for the conveyance 
of a 1-horse carriage, and 10 fr. for a 
2-horse carriage, from Lauterbrunnen to 
Grindelwald; but if the tour be made 
in the opposite direction, going from 
Grindelwald to Lauterbrunnen, the 
last-mentioned charges are reduced to 
3 fr. and 6 fr. respectively. 

Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, thence to 
Miirren, or Trachsellauinen, using same 
horses for the ascent, and returning 
by Lauterbrunnen to Interlaken in two 
days— 

Carriage with one horse . 28 fr. 

,, „ two horses . 55 „ 

Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, Miirren, 
Wengern Alp, and Grindelwald, using 
same horses, and returning to Interla¬ 
ken, if not engaged more than 3 days— 

Carriage with one horse . 35 fr. 

„ „ two horses . 65 fr. 

The ordinary rate per day is payable 
for any number of additional days, and 
extra charge, as above specified, for 
conveyance of the carriage between 
Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald while 
the travellers cross the Wengern Alp. 


24. BERNESE OBERLAND. 

I Interlaken to Grindelwald and the 
Faulhorn, using same horses for the 
ascent, returning on second day— 

Carriage with one horse . 33 fr. 

„ „ two horses . 60 „ 

Interlaken to Brienz and return, de¬ 
laying not more than two hrs.— 

Carriage with one horse . 8 fr. 

,, „ two horses . 15 „ 

Same excursion, delaying more than 
two hours—ordinary day’s rate. 

Interlaken to Meyringen, returning 
same day— 

Carriage with one horse . 16 fr. 

„ ,, two horses . 30 ,, 

returning on the following day—two 
ordinary days are payable. 

If the driver be discharged at night, 
and sent back empty— 

Carriage with one horse . 17 fr. 

„ „ two horses . 30 „ 

Brienz to Meyringen, discharging the 
carriage at once— 

Carriage with one horse . 7 fr. 

,, „ two horses . 13 ,, 

returning with not more than 3 hrs. 
delay— 

Carriage with one horse . 8 fr. 

„ „ two horses . 15 „ 

delaying more than three hrs.—ordi¬ 
nary day’s rate. 

Interlaken or Meyringen to the Both- 
horn, using same horses for the ascent, 
and returning in two days— 

Carriage with one horse . 25 fr. 

„ „ two horses . 50 „ 

Interlaken to Kandersteg — 

Carriage with one horse . 25 fr. 

„ „ two horses . 45 „ 

Interlaken to Frutigen, or to Thun— 

Carriage with one horse . 18 fr. 

„ ,, two horses . 32 ,, 

Interlaken to Wimmis — 

Carriage with one horse . 15 fr. 

„ „ two horses . 25 „ 

Carriages taken from Neuhaus, Un- 
terseen. or lloningen, are payable at the 
same rates as from Interlaken. In all 



OBERLAND TARIFF. 


57 


the above excursions the rates payable 
are the same when the direction is 
reversed. 

The ordinary daily pay for a horse 
or mule with a man to accompany it 
is 11 fr.; or, if several animals be en¬ 
gaged for the same party, 10 fr. each. 
The following are the special rates fixed 
per horse and man:— 

Grindelwald to Lauterbrunnen by the 
Wengern AId, return included, or vice 
versa .15fr. 

Gnndelwatd to the Faulhorn and back on 
the same day.15fr. 

Brienz to the Jlothhorn and back on the 
same day.15 „ 

Meyringen to liosenlaui, returning on 

the same dav . . 10 „ 

„ returning on the following day 15 „ 

,, to the Great Scheidegg „ „ 15 „ 

„ to the Faulhorn ,. „ 25 „ 

„ to Grindelwald, returning on 

the following day . . 20,, 

„ to the Faulhorn , descending 

thence to Grindelwald . 30,, 

„ to Lauterbrunnen , employing not 
more than two days . . 30 „ 

„ to Lauterbrunnen by the Faulhorn, 
employing not more than three 

days ’. 40 „ 

„ to the Handeck and return in one 

day.15,, 

„ to the Handeck and return in two 

days.20,, 

„ to the Grimsel and return in two 
day s . . • . • ,, 

Donkeys are kept for hire at Inter¬ 
laken. The charge fixed is l^fr. for 

the first hour, and 1 fr. for each suc¬ 
cessive hour. Charge for the entire 
day, G fr. 

The tariff is exhibited in the chief 
hotels, steamers, and other public places. 
It contains various regulations in re¬ 
gard to the drivers of hired carriages, 
the most important of which is that 
which fixes the maximum number of 
travellers to be carried in a one-horse 
carriage at three, while six are entitled 
to travel in a two-horse carriage. Dri¬ 
vers and the men who accompany 
horses are not entitled to anything 
extra, but travellers when satisfied with 
their conduct usually give a moderate 
bonnemain , or trinkgeld. 

The regulations laid down for guides 
in the Oberland require that each pro¬ 
fessed guide should have a book con¬ 
taining an official certificate and war¬ 
rant containing the guide’s Dame and 


place of residence. The ordinary rate 
of pay is fixed at 6 fr. for a day's walk 
not exceeding 8 stunden, and 8 fr. for 
expeditions somewhat exceeding that 
limit. The payment for longer and 
more difficult expeditions is left to be 
settled by mutual agreement. Return 
fare either to the plaee of hiring or to 
the place of residence named in the 
guide’s book, at the traveller’s option, 
is payable at the rate of 6 fr. per day’s 
journey of 8 stunden. It is usual to 
give a guide who has behaved well 
something over the prescribed rate, but 
he is prohibited from making any de¬ 
mand to that effect. The guide is 
bound to carry at least 15 lbs. of lug¬ 
gage if required. Porters, who in the 
Oberland will carry very heavy loads, 
do not require any special authority to 
ply their trade, but are liable to punish¬ 
ment in case of misconduct. An inn¬ 
keeper or professed guide recommend¬ 
ing a porter to a stranger becomes liable 
for his good conduct. The rate fixed 
is 6 fr. a day, and the same for return 
fare. While in most other districts 
four porters, and sometimes six, must be 
taken with a chaise-a-porteur, it is not 
uncommon in the Oberland for two men 
to offer to carry a lady of light weight 
for several days, claiming no more 
than the ordinary pay and return fare. 

Besides the well-known head-quar¬ 
ters of tourists, the Grimsel Hospice, 
the inn on the Aeggischhorn, and that 
on the Bel Alp, are admirably situated 
as centres whence a mountaineer may 
enjoy in the fullest manner the grand 
scenery of the great glaciers, or apply 
himself to scientific research. Although 
the absolute height of the Oberland 
group be considerably less than that 
of the Mont Blanc range, or the great 
peaks of the Monte Rosa district, the 
glaciers are here on a greater scale. This 
has been partly explained by the form 
of the upper valleys of the Oberland 
Alps, which, on the E. and S. sides, 
have a more gradual slope than those 
of the Pennine Alps, and are connected 
with reservoirs of great dimensions. 
It is further probable that the absolute 




58 


BERNESE ALPS. § 24 . BERNESE OBERLAND. 


quantity of snow falling annually at 
equal heights is greater here than in 
the Pennine range, and it is certain 
that the mean temperature is lower, 
and both these causes must contribute 
to increase the volume of the glaciers. 

The mountaineer visiting the Ober- 
land should not fail to supply himself 
with sheets 13 and 18 of the Swiss 
Federal Map. 


Route A. 


THUN TO INTERLAKEN AND MEYRIN- 
GEN, OR REICHENBACH. 


There are three ways offered to the 
choice of travellers who enter the Ober- 
land from Thun. The easiest, cheapest, 
and most frequented way is by the 
steamers on the lakes of Thun and 
Brienz ; the carriage road runs along 
the S. shore of the former lake and the 
N. shore of the lake of Brienz ; and the 
pedestrian may find comparatively un¬ 
frequented, though not uninteresting, 
paths on the opposite side of each lake. 


1. By the Lake Steamers. 


Neuhaus (by steamer) 
Interlaken (by road) . 
Brienz (by steamer) . 
Meyringen (by road) . 


Eng. miles 


11 

2 * 

9 

9 


The steamers plying on the lake of 
Thun start from the town (§ 23, Rte. A), 
and take in passengers opposite to the 
Hotel Bellevue. There are three de¬ 
partures daily in summer, and the 
passage occupies l^-hr. After mount¬ 
ing against the stream of the Aar for 
about 1 m. from Thun, the steamer 
enters the lake. Nothing ean exceed 
the beauty of the scenery ; and the only 
regret felt by a stranger is, that the 
rapid motion of the steamer should 
shorten his enjoyment of so exquisite 
a combination of the milder with the 
more sublime aspects of nature. On 
the S. side the peaks of the Stockhorn 
(§ 22, Rte. G), and the Niesen (§ 23, 
Rte. A), with the castles of Striittlin- 
gen and Spiez near the shore of the 


lake, are conspicuous objects. On the 
N. shore the traveller will remark the 
castie of Oberhofen and the St. Beaten- 
berg (see below). In the background 
are the snowy peaks of the Oberland 
Alps. The Jungfrau remains constantly 
in view; and after passing the Nase, a 
rocky headland on the N. shore, the 
Eiger and Monch are added to the 
picture. 

Neuhaus is a village consisting 
mainly of third-rate inns and wine¬ 
shops, where passengers are landed 
from the steamers. Omnibuses (fare 

1 fr. for each person) and numerous 
vehicles of all kinds are in readiness to 
convey passengers to Unterseen and 
Interlaken. Fare for 1-horse carriage, 

2 fr.; for 2-horse carriage, 3 fr. The 
difference between the level of the lakes 
of Thun and Brienz being but 23 ft., 
there is reason to believe that they were 
originally continuous, and that the 
middle portion of the ancient lake- 
basin was filled up, and the alluvial 
plain between the present lakes formed 
from the mass of debris and sediment 
borne down by the Lutschine, aided 
by the Lombach on the N. side. The 
barrier thus formed would naturally 
raise somewhat the level of the upper 
lake. In the midst of the alluvial plain, 
which is cultivated like a garden and 
called Bodeli, on the rt. bank of the 
Aar, stands the ancient village of 

Unterseen (Inns : Hotel and Pension 
Beausite, good and cheap, civil people; 
II. du Pont [Zur Alten Post], old- 
fashioned, but good, clean, and cheap ; 
H. Unterseen; H. Eiger ; with several 
others). Persons who are not at¬ 
tracted by the more brilliant society 
of Interlaken, and who seek quiet and 
economy, resort hither; but the great 
majority of tourists prefer the newer 
and more fashionable place, and there¬ 
fore cross the bridge over the Aar. 
The older houses near the river form 
the hamlet of Aarnnihle, where two 
rather primitive inns (Inns; Bellevue; 
Weisses Kreuz) receive strangers. 
Here commences a noble avenue of 
walnut trees nearly a mile in length. 




ROUTE A.-INTERLAKEN. 


59 


called the Hoheweg, which forms the 
central portion of 

Interlaken (Inns : H. de la Jungfrau, 
very well kept by F. Seiler, good and 
reasonable; H. Belvedere, good, per¬ 
haps the best fitted up, frequented by 
English and Russians; H. Victoria, 
good and reasonable; H. des Alpes, 
fine house but inferior position; H. 
d’Jnterlaken, much frequented by pass¬ 
ing tourists; Beaurivage, new, hand¬ 
some house; Schweizerhof, much fre¬ 
quented, kept open in winter; H. 
Fischer, with baths in the Aar; H. 
Ritschard, highly recommended, chiefly 
frequented by persons remaining en 
pension, many German families; H. du 
Casino; H. du Lac, at the farther end 
of the Hoheweg, by the landing-place 
of the Brienz steamers). Strangers re¬ 
maining more than a week are taken 
en pension at all the hotels. The size 
and number of the hotels above enu¬ 
merated, nearly all of them in the 
Hoheweg, prove the popularity of In¬ 
terlaken as the favourite resort of 
tourists in Switzerland. But in addi¬ 
tion to this incomplete list, there must 
be added a considerable number of inns 
and boarding-houses in the immediate 
neighbourhood. Of these the Felsenegg 
Chalet, kept by the head waiter of the 
H. de la Jungfrau, and commanding a 
beautiful view of the Lake of Brienz, 
has been particularly recommended. 
Towards the foot of the Rugen (see 
below) are several establishments, of 
which the Jungfraublick, the H. Wy- 
der, and the H. Ober, have been well 
spoken of. At Boningen, on the Lake 
of Brienz, are the Hotel Seiler, the 
Pension Vogel, and the Chalet du Lac. 

The position of Interlaken is pictur¬ 
esque, though perhaps not superior to 
that of many other places in the Alps ; 
the climate is mild and moderately 
sheltered from cold winds ; it is ex¬ 
tremely well situated for many beauti¬ 
ful excursions; but probably all these 
advantages would of themselves have 
done little to attract most of those who 
spend the summer season here. Ac¬ 
cording to the traveller’s humour and 


disposition, he will consider it an ad¬ 
vantage or the reverse that this is the 
chosen resort of those strangers who 
desire to carry with them into the sanc¬ 
tuary of nature as much as possible of 
the habits of fashionable watering-place 
society. Incapable of deriving deep 
and continuous enjoyment from the 
sublime objects that surround them, 
a large portion of the visitors of the 
gentler sex find constant occupation in 
the display of city finery ; while the 
less fortunate male idlers are too often 
reduced to a condition of utter vacuity, 
provoking painful comparisons between 
their condition and that of Dr. Guggen- 
biihl’s patients on the Abendberg. In 
spite of these disturbing elements, a 
stranger whose temper they do not 
ruffle may spend weeks and even 
months of true enjoyment amid the 
beautiful scenes that lie in the imme¬ 
diate neighbourhood of Interlaken. It 
lies too low and too far from the higher 
peaks to suit the ardent mountaineer, 
but it would be difficult to exhaust the 
list of longer or shorter excursions for 
which it serves as a convenient start¬ 
ing-point. Many of these are inci¬ 
dentally described in the following 
Rtes. Of those nearer to Interlaken 
the following may be specified. 

The Klein Rugen is an almost iso¬ 
lated rock, the last and lowest of the 
range dividing the Saxetenthal from 
the Lake of Thun. The summit, com¬ 
manding one of the finest views near 
to Interlaken, is reached in f hr., 
passing the beautifully-situated Jung¬ 
fraublick Pension. The return may 
be made by the picturesque castle of 
Unspunnen, and the road leading to 
Lauterbrunnen. Much higher up on the 
range terminating in the Rugen is the 
Abendberg, reached in 2 hrs., ascending 
from Unspunnen. A Dr. Guggenbiihl, 
now deceased, opened here several years 
ago an institution for the cure of Cre¬ 
tinism. Very favourable reports were 
published, and large subscriptions were 
obtained from benevolent persons in 
various parts of Europe; but the re¬ 
sults have been since called in ques- 



GO 


BERNESE ALPS. § 24. BERNESE OBERLAND. 


tion, and serious charges advanced 
against the manager. Corresponding 
to the Rugen, hut on the N. side of the 
x\ar, is the Hohbuhl, a hill overlooking 
the Lake of Thun, and rivalling the 
former in the beauty of its view. The 
walk may he lengthened hy descending 
on the opposite side of the Hohbuhl to 
the opening of the Habkerenthal, and 
returning by Neuhaus. 

In the opposite direction from the 
above excursions a walk of 4 hr. from 
Interlaken leads to Boningen, finely 
situated on the L. of Brienz, on the S. 
side of the outflow of the Aar. On 
the opposite side, reached by the road 
leading to Brienz, is the Golzwyler 
Hubei , f hr. from Interlaken, and 4 hr. 
farther, the Ringgenberg , both com¬ 
manding noble views of the lake and 
the mountains enclosing it. 

The ascent of the Harder —about 24 
hrs. to the summit—is an excursion 
often made from Interlaken, and deserv¬ 
edly so. There is a moderately good, 
and perfectly safe path, by the slopes on 
the N. side of the Aar, but it is easy to 
go astray. The upper part of the moun¬ 
tain is formed of steep slopes of slip¬ 
pery turf. Rashly venturing on these 
slopes, an English lady and two Swiss 
girls have lost their lives, and even 
practised mountaineers have felt them¬ 
selves in danger when attempting to 
mount over the treacherous declivity. 

Three interesting excursions may be 
made through the valley of Habkeren, 
drained by the Lombach torrent, which 
falls into the Lake of Thun by Neu¬ 
haus. There is a new char-road as far 
as the village of Habkeren (3,675'), 2 
hrs. distant, which has a pretty good 
country inn. The valley is a narrow 
glen, enclosed between the Harder, 
said to be inaccessible on this side, 
and the Gilggistrat (7,035'), overlook¬ 
ing the Justithal and the L. of Thun. 
The latter summit is reached without 
difficulty in 2| hrs. from the village. 

Rather longer and more laborious is 
the ascent of the Hohgant (7,216'). 
This may be taken in the way from 
Interlaken to the head of the Emmen- 


thal (Rte. Q), or the traveller may go* 
and return in one long day. The 
most direct, but roughest and steepest, 
way lies by the Traubach; a longer 
route, but more agreeable, is by the 
Bohlegg. The summit is a double 
peak with a deep cleft in the midst. 
In clear weather the view is said to 
extend as far as Mont Blanc. This 
excursion is interesting to the geologist. 
The Hohgant is in great part formed 
of that member of the cretaceous for¬ 
mation to which the Swiss geologists 
have given the name Schrattenkalh , 
from the local name given to the long 
tortuous channels which the rain 
scoops in the rock. In the Habkeren¬ 
thal the flysch rocks contain fragments 
of a peculiar granite, which has not 
yet been found in situ anywhere in the 
Alps. 

Another excursion to be made from 
the Habkerenthal is the ascent of the 
Augstmattenliorn (6,929'), a shattered 
summit overlooking the L. of Brienz, 
and commanding a noble view of the 
Oberland Alps, rising on the opposite 
side of the lake. The ascent is not 
easy, and requires the aid of a local 
guide. The path turns to the rt. from 
the road to Habkeren just before 
reaching the bridge that leads to the 
village. 

A new road has been opened to the 
village of Beatenberg (Inns : H. des 
Alpes; H. Bellevue; noble views), 
overlooking the Lake of Thun. The 
Guggisgrat is more easily reached from 
this side than from Habkeren. 

The ascent of the Schienige Platte 
( 6 , 181 '?) is a very interesting excursion, 
now often made by ladies. ^Llorse-hire 
from Interlaken 15fr. The name, Gum - 
ntihorn, given to the summit visible 
from Interlaken, on the authority of 
Mr. A. Wills, in the first edition of 
this work, properly belongs to a very 
steep obelisk of rock, standing farther 
back, and less well situated for a view. 
Turning to the 1. from the road to 
Lauterbrunnen at Gsteig, £ hr. from 
Interlaken, the mule-path crosses the 
Lutschine, and ascends through a fine 




ROUTE A.-INTERLAKEN’. 


beech forest. After an ascent of about 
2,000 ft., a belt of pasture separates the 
beech from the higher zone of pine and 
larch forest. Then follows a grassy 
slope with a chalet visible from In¬ 
terlaken. Here the path winds round 
the mountain towards the valley of 
the Lutschine, and in 3 hrs. from 
Gsteig reaches a plateau whereon 
stands a very fair mountain inn. From 
hence the summit may be reached on 
foot in ^ hr. The view is one of the 
finest in this neighbourhood. Its pe¬ 
culiar advantages arise from the posi¬ 
tion of the mountain in respect to 
the four main valleys that converge at 
Interlaken. Those occupied by the 
lakes of Thun and Brienz, as well as 
the valley of Lauterbrunnen, and that 
of Grindelwald, are seen throughout 
their entire length, while the view of 
the snowy peaks is little, if at all, in¬ 
ferior to that from the Faulhorn. 

The ascent of the Sulegg is described 
in Rte. E. 

Strangers restrained by bad weather 
from making excursions from Inter¬ 
laken will find a tolerably well-supplied 
reading-room. The shops with arti¬ 
cles in carved wood, many of which 
are really well executed, tempt most 
visitors. The Parquetterie-Fabrik of 
Arnold Haider, where excellent works 
in marquetry and inlaid woods are 
executed, deserves a visit. The owner 
is very well acquainted with the neigh¬ 
bouring Alps, and may be consulted 
with advantage by those planning any 
unusual expedition. 

The guides of Interlaken are, with 
few exceptions, third-rate men, serving 
to show the way, but of no use in ex¬ 
peditions of any difficulty. For rules 
as to guides, and the tariff for car¬ 
riages, horses, &c., see the introductory 
paragraphs to this §. 

The Lake of Brienz which along 
with the L. of Thun forms the N. limit 
of the Oberland Alps, is about 9 m. in 
length, and 2 m. in breadth. The 
surface is 1,946 ft. above the sea, and 
its depth in some places is more than | 
2,000 ft., exceeding that o r all the ! 


SI 

other lakes on the N. side of the Alps. 
Probably on that account its waters 
have never been known to freeze in the 
severest winters. The depth at the 
upper end must once have been much 
greater, as the Aar constantly pours its 
turbid waters laden with silt and sand 
into the head of the lake, and issues 
forth in a pure stream at the opposite 
end. The steamer starts from the 
Zollhaus on the Aar at Interlaken, 
some distance below the point where 
the river issues from the lake. It plies 
to and from Brienz three times daily 
in summer, employing an hour in 
the passage, and calling at the Giess- 
bach and at Kienholz. 

Though less varied and striking than 
that of the L. of Thun, the scenery is 
fine. The great resort of strangers 
visiting the lake is to the Giessbach , 
a waterfall which owes its celebrity 
more to the extreme beauty of its posi¬ 
tion than to the volume or height of 
the fall. It lies near the E. end, but 
on the S. shore of the lake; and most 
passengers leave the steamboat, or else 
hire a boat at Brienz, to take them to 
the fall. Fare, either way, 3 fr. About 
£ m. from the landing-place is a large 
and handsome hotel, said to be very 
well conducted—pension from 6 to 10 
fr. a-day, according to the rooms occu¬ 
pied—and a little higher up, close to 
the fall, is a spacious dining-room, in¬ 
tended not only for persons remaining 
at the hotel, but for passing visitors, 
who may sometimes be counted by 
hundreds in a fine summer’s day. From 
this building the fall may be seen to 
perfection in wet weather, when the 
torrent is swollen to the utmost. Part 
of the inducement to strangers to stop 
at the Giessbach Hotel is the practice 
of lighting up the fall at night with 
Bengal lights or other fireworks. The 
effect is very beautiful. The Giess¬ 
bach is properly the name of the tor¬ 
rent which drains the steep N. side of 
the Schwarzhorn (Rte. R). No less 
than fourteen cascades are counted, 
which have been fancifully named alter 
as many of the men famous in Swiss 





BERNESE ALBS. § 24. BERNESE OBERLAND. 


02 

history. The lower seven cascades are 
those which are commonly visited ; and 
it is to the admirable manner in which 
they are grouped that the beauty of 
the fall is chiefly due. Strangers are 
recommended to pass behind one of 
the falls (the 6th ?), which leaves a 
clear space between the water and the 
rock, made accessible, as are all the 
falls, by a good path. A waterproof 
cape is advisable for this passage. The 
manager of the hotel is a botanist, and 
will direct the stranger to habitats for 
the scarcer species. Amongst these is 
Malaxis monophyllos. A steep track, 
not to be attempted without a guide, 
leads, in 5^ hrs., from the Giessbach to 
the summit of the Faulhorn (Rte. B). 

Kienholz (Inn : Bellevue) stands at 
the E. end of the lake, on the way from 
Brienz to Meyringen, so that passen¬ 
gers bound for the latter place save 
some distance by landing here. The 
village has been twice destroyed by 
landslips from the adjoining mountain, 
and the Bernese Government offered 
to build houses for the inhabitants in a 
securer site; but they have refused to 
move from their homes, though repeat¬ 
edly threatened w'ith a renewal of the 
calamity. 

Brienz (Inns : Bar, good, with 
first-rate prices, rather noisy, being 
close to the landing-place of the 
steamers; Weisses Kreuz, half a mile 
from the landing-place, attendance 
better, and prices lower) stands at the 
NE. corner of the lake, at the foot of 
the Brienzergrat. This is the head¬ 
quarters of the Swiss carved-wood 
trade, which is here carried on in 
several large establishments : one of 
them is engaged in supplying a shop 
on the Boulevard des Italiens in Paris. 
Though not so much frequented as 
many other places in the* Oberland, 
this has been the favourite resort of 
artists, who often lodge at a pavilion 
on the Fluhberg (belonging to the 
landlord of the Weisses Kreuz), which 
commands a fine view of the lake. A 
more extensive prospect is gained from 
the Plana/p, lj hr. above the town. 


For those who do not care to ascend a 
height, the finest point of view is from 
the old church, standing on a rock at 
the W. end of the town, close to the 
ruins of a castle. 

After the Giessbach, which is the 
indispensable excursion, that most fre¬ 
quently made from hence is the ascent 
of the Brienzer JRothhorn (7,917'), so 
called to distinguish it from the many 
other mountains of the same name. 
From 4j to 5 hrs., exclusive of halts, 
are required to reach the summit on 
foot or on horseback. (See tariff.) 
A guide (required only by novices) is 
paid 5 fr. A new clean inn, standing 
about 4 hr. below the summit of the 
mountain, replaces the old house, which 
was burned down by accident. The 
panorama is amongst the finest in the 
Alps, being intermediate in many re¬ 
spects between those of the Rigi and 
the Faulhorn. The Oberland peaks 
are seen in the same direction as from 
the Faulhorn, though not so near at 
hand ; but the circuit here includes the 
Titlis, and the higher summits of the 
Uri and Glarus Alps, and an extraor¬ 
dinary number of lakes, even the L. of 
Constance being seen in the northern 
horizon. A pedestrian intending to 
visit the Rothhorn, will do well to take 
it, when practicable, in his way from 
Sarnen (§ 25, Rte. A) to Brienz. The 
view's throughout the expedition pre¬ 
sent themselves more favourably than 
in the ascent from Brienz, and the 
traveller avoids a somewhat laborious 
and hot ascent by the S. slopes of the 
mountain, instead of which he has the 
pleasure of descending, wdth beautiful 
pictures of the lake and the Alps con¬ 
stantly before his eyes. 

There is a good road from Brienz to 
Meyringen and to Reichenbach, each 
about 9 m. distant. Afrer passing 
Kienholz (see above), the road turns 
away from the lake, and traverses a 
low tract, part of the ancient lake-basin 
filled up by the Aar, and liable to fre¬ 
quent inundation. The road is carried 
for 2. m. along the rt. bank of the 
river, and the valley of Hasli opens out 





ROUTE A.—THUN TO BRIENZ. 


63 


before the traveller between the range 
of the Briinig on the N., and the 
higher and steeper range on the S. side, 
down which two torrents fall in a suc¬ 
cession of cascades. The road to 
Lucerne over the Briinig branches off 
to the 1., and that to Meyringen crosses 
to the 1. bank of the Aar, here em¬ 
banked between massive dykes of rough 
masonry. After passing the cascade 
of the Wandelbach, the road recrosses 
the river (leaving on the 1. bank the 
short branch road to Reich enbach), and 
soon reaches 

Meyringen (Krone or Couronne; 
Wilde Mann orSauvage; about equally 
good, very fair country inns ; Bar; 
Landhaus ; both second-rate), a large 
village (2,224'), the chief place in the 
Haslithal , whose far-famed beauties are 
to be sought mainly in the upper val¬ 
ley above the Kirchet, as the lower 
valley is defaced by the broad flat 
marshy tract lying between the village 
and the lake of Brienz.. Here dwells 
in winter Melchior Anderegg, the fa¬ 
mous guide; and Caspar Blatter, a 
young but excellent man. Johann 
Tiinnler of Wyler, his namesake of 
Hausen, A. Jaun, Jacob and Melchior 
Blatter, are well recommended. B. 
Naegeli of Guttanen is also a steady 
guide, but his namesake of Meyringen 
has been ruined by drinking. Most tra¬ 
vellers prefer to Meyringen the Hotel 
Heichenbach, standing below the water-; 
fall of that name, on the opposite bank 
of the Aar. It is reached by road from 
Brienz in the same time as Meyringen, 
and is rather more convenient for tra-i 
vcllers starting for the Grimsel or for 
Rosenlaui. The accommodation is su¬ 
perior to that in the village, when the 
house is not overfull, and the prices 
somewhat higher. There is an adjoining 
building—Pension des Alpes—kept by 
the same proprietor, intended for per¬ 
sons who remain for some time. A post 
carriage runs twice a day between Mey¬ 
ringen and Brienz, in connection with 
the steamer on the lake. The expedi¬ 
tions most commonly made from hence 
are described in the two following Rtes. 


2. Thun to Brienz by Carriage Itoad. 
16£ m. to Interlaken—10 m. thence to Brienz. 

Though the scenery of the shores of 
the L. of Thun cannot be otherwise than 
beautiful, the way by the S. shore, tra¬ 
versed by the high-road to Interlaken, is 
on the whole less interesting than either 
of the other ways here described. 
Leaving Thun by the same road which 
leads to Frutigen (§ 23, Rte. A), soon 
after passing the bridge over the Kan- 
der the road to Interlaken keeps to the 
1., but not close to the shore. On the 
left hand, close to the lake, is seen the 
village and castle of Spiez. The latter 
is interesting from its associations with 
early Swiss history. Founded, as some 
say, by the Romans, or, as others be¬ 
lieve, by Attila, it was in succession 
the seat of the three historic families 
of Striittlingen, Bubenberg, and Erlach. 
Near Leissingen, a village with an ad¬ 
joining establishment of mineral baths, 
in a charming situation, the road from 
i Interlaken to Frutigen mounts the hill 
on the rt. Passing close under the 
base of the Abendberg, the road reaches 
the point w'hcre the Aar falls into the 
lake. The old road goes to Interlaken 
by the 1. bank: a new road, rather 
shorter, passes by Unterseen, twice 
crossing the river; a foot-path, be¬ 
tween the Klein and Gross Rugen, 
leads to Unspunnen, on the road from 
Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, shorten¬ 
ing the way to the latter place by at 
least 2 miles. 

The carriage road from Interlaken 
to Brienz lies by the N. shore of 
the lake. A short distance beyond 
the end of the Hbheweg is a roofed 
bridge over the Aar, and less than 
1 m. farther, the Golzwyler Hubei, 
overlooking the L. of Brienz, often 
visited for the sake of the view. The 
ruined castle of Ringgenberg, about 
I m. farther, is a conspicuous object; 
close to it is the village (Inn: Bar) of 
the same name. The lower slopes of 
the Brienzergrat traversed by the road 
are covered with forest, and the drive 





64 


BERNESE ALPS. § 24. BERNESE OBERLAND. 


of about 10 m. from Interlaken is 
thoroughly enjoyable. 

3. Thun to Brienz by Foot-path. 

14 m. to Intertaken—13A m. thence to Brienz. 

Though rather a hot walk in fine 
weather, it is surprising that the N. 
shore of the Lake of Thun is not oftener 
visited by pedestrian tourists, as it 
abounds with objects of interest and 
exquisite scenery. A char-road leads 
to OberlwJ'en , about 3 m. from Thun, 
a village with a fine castle, said to date 
from the 5th century, restored by the 
late Count Pourtales of Neuchatel. It 
is (or was) shown to strangers. From 
hence those who seek a wider view of 
the surrounding mountains and the 
low country may ascend the Blume 
(5,223'). The summit is reached in 2^ 
hrs., and the descent may be made by 
Sigriswyl, a large village finely situated 
on the slope above the lake, to Rallin- 
yen , situated in the direct way from 
Oberhofen to Neuhaus. Fully 5 hrs. 
must be allowed by those who make a 
detour to the summit, but hr. suffices 
to reach Rallingen for those who follow 
the mule-path along the lake. About 

1 m. farther is Merlingen (Inn: Lowe), 
at the opening of the Justithal, a nar¬ 
row and deep cleft between the almost 
vertical rocks of the Wandfluh to the 
E., and the Ralligstock to the W. A 
day may be well spent in exploring 
this wild glen, and the geologist is 
rewarded by finding many neocomian 
fossils, especially cephalopods. [ About 

2 hrs. above Merlingen, on the slope 
of the Ralligstock, is a singular 
cavern, called Schajloch because the 
outer part is used to shelter sheep, 
one of the most accessible of the ice- 
caverns, to which attention has lately 
been directed by the interesting work 
of Mr. G. F. Browne. A guide with 
lights should be taken by those who 
wish to visit the cave. The ascent 
from the Justithal is long and steep: 
Mr. George recommends an easier way 
from Sigriswyl, mounting diagonally 


up the slope, and then by a steep zig¬ 
zag gaining the ridge close under the 
Ralligstock. The way thence is nearly 
level, with one bit of steep descent. 
To reach Interlaken from the cave the 
traveller may pass over the Giiggis- 
grat, descending to Beatenberg, or, 
keeping further N., pass by Brandisegg 
in the upper part of the Habkerenthal.] 
The track from Merlingen leaves to 
the rt. the headland called Nase, con¬ 
spicuous from the lake; and a little 
farther on a path to the 1. mounts to 
the village of Beatenberg, while that 
leading to Neuhaus is carried along 
the steep face of the mountain to the 
Beatenhohle, or cave of St. Beatus, a 
(British?) saint, who is reported to have 
preached the Gospel in this region, and 
made his home in the cavern, in the 
second century*. The size of the vault 
and the stalactites that adorn it are 
boasted of by the local guides, though 
deserving little notice; but few spots 
can be cited that present so exqui¬ 
site a picture as that offered to the 
spectator issuing from the cavern, who 
sees as in a frame the peaks of the 
Jungfrau range rising above the inter¬ 
mediate mountains between the blue 
sky above and the blue lake below. 
Many who make the excursion from 
Interlaken hire a boat at Neuhaus (5 fr. 
to and fro), and land at a point whence 
the ascent to the cave is made in \ hr. 
The foot-path to Interlaken is carried 
along steep, and in some places slippery, 
rocks, and slopes of debris, requiring 
care, till it descends to the village of 
Sundlauenen. It then traverses the 
Siindbach torrent, passes the baths of 
Kublis, crosses by another bridge the 
Lombach, and immediately after reaches 
Neuhaus. Fully 5 hrs. should be al¬ 
lowed for the walk from Thun to Inter¬ 
laken, but the traveller will do well to 
devote a long day to the expedition, 
giving himself time to enjoy it tho¬ 
roughly. If a geologist, he will not fail 
to examine the deposit about Ralligen, 
known as Ralliger Grit, apparently 
belonging to the flysch, yet differing 
much from those of the same age de- 




ROUTE B.—FALLS OF REICHENBACH. 


G5 


■veloped on a large scale at the base of 
the Niesen on the opposite side of the 
lake. 

The foot-path along the S. side of 
the L. of Brienz leaves the high-road at 
Bdningen near Interlaken (see above). 
It cannot be compared for beauty and 
variety of scenery to that just described, 
but is pleasing, and offers much more 
shade. The track is rough, and in¬ 
volves many short ascents and descents. 
!From Sengg, nearly half way on the 
S. shore, a steep path, fit only for prac¬ 
tised mountaineers, leads to the Faul- 
horn (Rte. B). About £ hr. farther 
is the pretty village of Iseltwald , and | 
hr. more suffices to reach the Giessbach 
Hotel. Those bound for Brienz will 
do well to take the steamer or a boat 
from the Giessbach, as the foot-path is 
circuitous and not very interesting; but 
if bound for Meyringen or Reichenbach 
they may follow a very agreeable path, 
chiefly under trees through a dell called 
the Enge, afterwards passing along the 
base of the mountain, till it joins the 
road from Brienz near the first bridge 
over the Aar. 


Route B. 

MEYRINGEN TO INTERLAKEN, BY GRIN- 
DKLWALD AND LAUTERBRUNNEN. 


Rosenlnui 

Hrs.’ 
walking 
. 3 

F.ng. 

miles 

8 

Great Scheidegg . 

2 

6 

Grindelwaid 

• 21 

7 

Little Scheidegg . 

. 3 

8 

Lauterbrunnen . 

3 


Interlaken . 

■ _!i ; 

81 


16 

45 


It is to the route here described that 
the Bernese Oberland owes the greater 
part of its celebrity, for there is none 
other in the Alps where a very moderate 
effort, without even the semblance of 
risk, enables a stranger so fully to enjoy 
the union of the most picturesque with 
the most sublime elements of natural 
scenery. A very moderate walk, an 
PART II. 


easy ride, or, if need be, the chaise-a- 
porteur, brings within the reach even of 
delicate ladies scenes not surpassed by 
those which the mountaineer seeks in 
spots of difficult and perilous access. 
The natural consequence is, that the 
two passes here described are by far the 
most frequented in the Alps. During 
the fine season a ceaseless stream of 
tourists of all nations flows in opposite 
directions over the great Scheidegg 
and the Wengern Alp. If the lover 
of solitude and quiet be tempted to 
complain, he will not, if a practised 
mountaineer, have much difficulty in 
striking out a course for himself far 
enough from the beaten track to leave 
him the undisturbed enjoyment of the 
scenery. 

The ascent to the Great Scheidegg 
commences close to the Reichenbach 
Hotel on the 1. bank of the Aar, ^ 
m. from Meyringen (see last Rte.). 
Most travellers turn aside to see the 
Falls of Reichenbach, a series of 5 cas¬ 
cades, the lowest of which is but a 
short wav above the hotel. The volume 
of water is not considerable enough 
to make them very noteworthy. The 
lowest, and the fourth, are best worth 
seeing, the latter being to be preferred. 
A toll is levied on strangers for cross¬ 
ing the meadow that leads to it, and 
another for entering the Belvedere from 
which it is seen to advantage. There 
is a better view from a projecting point 
of rock immediately overhanging the 
fall, and barely out of reach of the 
spray, but to reach this requires some 
steadiness of head and foot. The 
ascent of the slope on the rt. bank of 
the torrent is somewhat steep, and the 
path roughly paved. The mountain 
on the 1. hand, forming the base of the 
range of the Engelhbrner, rises steeply, 
and on looking back there is a fine 
view of the Haslithal which is soon 
lost to sight. [A traveller going from 
Grindelwaid to that valley, and not 
caring to see the Reichenbach, may 
reach Hof in 2| hrs., descending from 
Rosenlaui by a rough path (passed on 
the 1. in ascending) that leads first 





BERNESE ALPS. § 24. BERNESE OBERLAND. 


66 

to the hamlet of Geisholz, and then 
to the Kirchet (Rte. C).] The path 
through the glen traversed by the 
Reichenbach torrent above the falls 
mounts very gently, and the scenery 
constantly increases in grandeur as the 
Wellhorn, and farther on the outer 
peak of the Wetterhorn and the Eiger, 
come into view. After passing Sagi, 
vernacular for a saw-mill, the track 
crosses the torrent to the broad green 
expanse of Breitenmatt enclosed by 
pine forests, beyond which the two 
peaks above named, and a part of the 
Rosenlaui Glacier, complete a picture to 
render which on paper or canvas is the 
constant but vain aspiration of alpine 
artists. In fine weather it is common 
to see several of the fraternity, each 
with his outspread umbrella, engaged 
in the same hopeless but exciting en¬ 
terprise. The slender fall of the Seilbach 
is here pointed out by the guides ; but 
if not already used to tiny waterfalls, 
the traveller will soon reach a condi¬ 
tion of comparative indifference to 
them, save as details in a view other¬ 
wise remarkable. The path to the 
Scheidegg is carried along the 1. bank, 
and it is not necessary to recross the 
stream, but no stranger should omit to 
lengthen the way by a few minutes’ 
walk in order to visit the 

Baths of Rosenlaui, beautifully situ¬ 
ated in a pine forest a short distance 
below the foot of the glacier, and 
the base of the "Wellhorn. The inn, 
which was burned down in 1860 and 
has been since rebuilt, supplies very 
fair accommodation at reasonable 
prices. The landlord is well acquaint¬ 
ed with the alpine fiora, and sells col¬ 
lections of dried plants more correctly 
named than those commonly found in 
Switzerland. The specimens of carved 
wood kept for sale here are superior to 
those usually found elsewhere in the 
Oberland. The mineral waters, charged 
with alkaline salts, supply baths which 
are resorted to by a few Swiss visitors. 

The neighbouring Rosenlaui Glacier 
has been justly famed for the beauty 
and purity of its ice-masses ; but like 


most other Alpine glaciers its appear¬ 
ance has been marred of late years by 
the melting of its mass, and access to it 
is more difficult than it used to be. On 
approaching the glacier, the torrent 
issuing from its base is seen to flow in a 
cleft, fully 200 feet deep, that it has cut 
for itself in the limestone. The surface 
of th£ surrounding rocks is rounded and 
smoothed by the passage of the glacier 
at some not distant period. The glacier 
originates in a vast plateau of neve 
lying NE. of the peaks of the Wetter- 
horner (Rte. K), and descends first NE., 
then about due N., between the Well¬ 
horn (10,486') and the Engelhorner ; 
having no medial moraine, its surface 
is almost entirely free from the blocks 
of stone and piles of gravel that too often 
soil the purity of the icy surface. The 
stranger who has had no previous ac¬ 
quaintance with glaciers may here 
form some idea of their beauty, though 
not of their dimensions, as this is on a 
smaller scale than the two Grindel- 
wald glaciers, which are themselves 
greatly surpassed by those of the Aar 
and Aletsch on the opposite side of the 
Oberland group. An ascent of a little 
more than 1 hr., not without a guide, 
will take the traveller to the summit of 
a rock on the rt. bank, whence he may 
overlook the greater part of the glacier 
(see Rte. L). The botanist may find a 
considerable portion of the alpine flora 
of central Switzerland on the slope 
near the glacier, in the openings ot 
the pine forest near the baths, and on 
or near the path leading thence to the 
Scheidegg. Travellers going from the 
glacier to Grindelwald, or vice versa, 
may save 20 minutes by taking a 
rough path that joins the mule-track 
some distance above the inn. 

The ascent from Rosenlaui to the 
Scheidegg is in most places very gentle; 
at first the Wellhorn claims attention, 
but the stupendous precipices of the 
Wetterhbruer rise more and more 
grandly as the traveller approaches the 
top of the pass. From the summit ot 
the rocky wall crowned by the exqui¬ 
sitely-formed conical peak of the outer 





ROUTE B.—GREAT SCHEIDEGG. 


67 


Wetterhorn, or Ilasli Jungfrau, and 
from several other points where small 
masses of glacier have accumulated on 
shelfs or ledges of the mountain, masses 
of ice are occasionally discharged, form¬ 
ing avalanches of the same character 
as those of the Jungfrau more fully 
noticed below. Being well acquainted 
with the ground, the writer may safely 
contradict the assertion that the frag¬ 
ments discharged from these ava¬ 
lanches can at any time reach to or even 
approach the path followed by tourists. 
The distance is far greater than an 
ordinary observer would suppose, and 
the intervening space full of inequali¬ 
ties. Each of the ordinary channels 
of these avalanches gives rise to an 
accumulation of ice-fragments, and 
when sufficiently copious these are 
ultimately consolidated into a single 
mass, and form miniature glaciers. In 
their origin and their form these 
exactly resemble the piles of gravel and 
debris formed by mountain torrents 
issuing from a ravine on to more level 
ground, and called by geologists cones 
of dejection. The only essential dif¬ 
ference is, that when the fragments are 
formed of ice instead of stone they be¬ 
come welded together into a continu¬ 
ous mass by virtue of the property of 
regelation. See Introduction, Art. 
Glaciers. The most considerable of 
these accumulations, called by some 
Swiss writers ‘ glaciers rewanies ,’ is 
the Lower Schwarzwald Glacier. It 
may be reached by a rather deep de¬ 
pression, lying between the path from 
Rosenlaui to the Scheidegg and the 
base of the precipices connecting the 
Wetterhorn with the Wellhorn. The 
detour necessary to take it in the way 
to Grindelwald is little more than ^ 
hr., and will well reward those inter¬ 
ested in the study of glaciers. Tra¬ 
vellers not familiar with such localities 
must be reminded to use much caution 
in approaching the places where the 
ice-avalanches fall. The discharges 
are renewed at longer or shorter inter¬ 
vals according to circumstances, and 
to be caught in the path through 


which they descend involves rather 
more risk than to charge a battery ot 
guns laden with grape-shot. 

The ordinary traveller, keeping to 
the beaten track, admires these pheno¬ 
mena at a distance, which is not only 
safe, but too great to enable him to 
form a correct idea of the mass of 
fragments, that at a distance looks no 
more than the spray of a small water¬ 
fall on the face of the precipice. It is 
the sound alone that can lead him to 
suspect that at each fall very many 
tons of ice are precipitated down the 
face of the mountain. The echo re¬ 
turned from the face of the Wetter¬ 
horn, awakened by an ordinary Swiss 
cow-horn, when heard in calm weather, 
is most exquisite from the softness and 
clearness of the tone, and the long in¬ 
terval that elapses before it is returned 
to the ear, and well deserves the small 
coin with which all travellers reward 
the performer. It is best heard from 
the W. side of the pass. 

The Grosse Scheidegg (G,910') is a 
narrow ridge connecting the base of 
the Wetterhorn with the range of the 
Faulhorn and Schwarzhorn. The 
small inn at the top supplies poor ac¬ 
commodation at high prices. The tra¬ 
veller who is fortunate as to weather 
should here turn aside from the path to 
Grindelwald to visit the Faulhorn (p. 
70), or if much hurried may follow the 
path to it as far as the Grindelalp, and 
descend to Grindelwald by a detour of 
only 1 hr. 

[The ascent of the Schwarzhorn 
(9,507') may be made with a guide in 
3 ? hrs. from the inn on the Great 
Scheidegg. This is the highest sum¬ 
mit of the Faulhorn range, and in the 
opinion of Mr. G. Studer the view is 
decidedly superior. It includes the 
snowy peaks from the Titlis to the 
Galenstock, described in the next §, 
with the summit of the Todi in the E. 
horizon; but it may be doubted whe¬ 
ther it is so favourable a point for 
viewing the greater peaks of the 
Oberland. It may be reached by 
an active walker in 5 hrs., either from 




68 


BERNESE ALPS. § 24. BERNESE OBERLAND. 


Grindelwald or the Baths of Rosen- 
laui.] 

No amount of familiarity can much 
lessen the effect of the glorious scene 
that opens before the eyes of one 
arriving on the Scheidegg from the E. 
side ; and it is in order to enjoy this 
in perfection that the writer recom¬ 
mends travellers to take this route from 
the side of Meyringen, rather than 
from Lauterbrunnen. The view from 
the Faulhorn is doubtless more com¬ 
plete, but except for those who make 
the difficult ascent by the N. side of 
that mountain, the effect is not height¬ 
ened by the charm of surprise. Be¬ 
yond the Wetterhorn rises to the S. 
the stern peak of the Schreckhorn. To 
this succeeds the rugged ridge of the 
Mettenberg, and behind it the snow¬ 
capped Monch, and the Eiger towering 
more than 9,000 ft. above the village 
of Grindelwald, with its green valley, 
and cornfields, and orchards. To the 
NW. the range of the Faulhorn and 
Schwarz horn, dwarfed by the huge 
masses with which they are contrasted, 
closes the view. 

The descent towards Grindelwald is 
easy, but steeper than the path from 
Rosenlaui. Nearly half way the track 
crosses the stream of the Bergelbach, 
and soon after approaches near to the 
lower end of the Upper Glacier, or Ober 
Grindelwald Glacier. A detour of 
about 4 hr. from the regular track 
suffices to reach a place where it is 
possible to descend into a cavity, and 
advance a short way under the bed of 
the glacier. Owing to the shrinking of 
the ice of late years ladders are now 
required for the descent. The difficult 
pass of the Lauteraar Joch (Rte. K) is 
reached by the steep rocks on the NE. 
side of the glacier. 1 hr. more suffices 
to reach 

Grindelwald (Inns: Adler; Bar ; 
Eiger, new ; all three good, but not 
cheap ; Zum Gletscher. new, cheaper, 
nearest the glacier, visitors taken en 
pension at f> fr. a day), a rather large 
village (3,773 ), one of the natural 
centres for Alpine travellers. There. 


is none other so easily reached which 
lies so close to the foot of such great 
peaks, and in the immediate neighbour¬ 
hood of two great glaciers. Christian 
Aimer, Peter Michel, Peter Bohren, 
P. Baumann, and P. Inabnit, guides 
already noticed in the Introduction, re¬ 
side here, and there are many rising men 
who may be taken on difficult expedi 
tions. The two first-named, who 
rank amongst the best in the Alps, 
are generally engaged during the sum¬ 
mer by members of the Alpine Club. 
Peter Rubi, who earned high praise as 
porter in the difficult passage of the 
Jungfrau Joch, has become a regular 
guide. Christian Roth is highly recom¬ 
mended as a porter on glacier expedi¬ 
tions. It is a drawback to the pleasure 
of persons remaining for some days at 
Grindelwald that most of the paths near 
the village are roughly paved, and 
often used as channels for the rivu¬ 
lets intended to irrigate the adjoining 
meadows. 

The excursion most frequently made 
from Grindelwald is to the Lower Gla¬ 
cier, or Unter Grindelwald Glacier. This 
great ice-stream, far more considerable 
than the upper glacier, originates in a 
great amphitheatre lying between the 
Mettenberg, Schreckhorn, Walcher- 
hqrner, Yieschergrat, and Eiger. It 
descends towards Grindelwald in a 
fine ice-fall through the comparatively 
narrow opening between the Metten¬ 
berg and the Eiger. Some visitors 
content themselves by going merely to 
the foot of the glacier, less than 2 m. 
from the village ; charge for a horse to 
and fro 3 fr. Seen from below, it does 
not offer any very remarkable features. 
Far more interesting is the excursion 
to the Eis-mee r , or Mer de Glace, 
which is accessible by a tolerably good 
path mounting by the rt. bank of the 
ice-fall. Horses are sometimes taken 
for the ascent, but it is scarcely ad¬ 
visable to take them all the way, as 
the path is carried along very steep 
slopes immediately overhanging the 
glacier; and a slip might have serious 
consequences. Those who are unable 




ROUTE B.—LOWER GRINDENWALD GLACIER. 


G3 


to -walk will do better to take a chaise- 
a-porteur. The excursion is often 
compared to that of the Montanvers 
from Chamouni; but has far ihore re¬ 
semblance to the ascent to the Chapeau, 
since in both cases the path immediately 
overlooks an ice-cascade with its shat¬ 
tered towers and minarets separated 
by profound crevasses. After passing 
through some meadows, the branch of 
the Lutschine torrent descending from 
the upper glacier is crossed; and the 
ascent begins through the forest which 
covers the W. base of the Mettenberg. 
Less than 1 hr. is needed to reach a 
rocky point called Fluelenegg, beyond 
which it is not prudent to take horses. 
Thenceforw ard the path lies along ledges 
on the face of the rocks ; but with or¬ 
dinary care it is quite free from danger, 
save to persons subject to giddiness. 
A curious hollow in the rock is pointed 
on in connection with a legendary tale, 
like many others common in the Swiss 
Alps, respecting the giant St. Martin. 
The saint on some occasion is said to 
have seated himself on this side of the 
valley while he drove his staff through 
the rocks opposite. A perforation in 
the ridge of rocks descending from the 
Eiger, called the Heiterloch, through 
which the sun sometimes shines, proves 
the authenticity of the legend. 

Many travellers are content to reach 
the Bdnisegg, where refreshments, and 
in case of need beds, are found at a 
chalet commanding an admirable view 
of the glacier, and the grand peaks that 
enclose it. Those who wish to make 
closer acquaintance with the new world 
here opened before them usually extend 
the excursion as far as the Ziisenberg. 
The path which had been followed 
along the rocks comes to an end above 
the ice-fall, at a point where the glacier, 
nearly level, may be traversed without 
difficulty. According to the height of 
the glacier, planks or ladders are used 
to pass from the rock to the ice. The 
ice has of late shrunk greatly, and the 
Eismeer was in 1865 fully 100 ft. lower 
than in 1861. It takes 1 hr. to reach 
the Ziisenberg, a patch of Alpine pasture 


at the base of a rocky promontory that 
divides the E. branch of the glacier 
from the S. branch descending from 
the Mdnch Joch (Rte. I). Though not 
nearly so high, and much easier of 
access, the view from this point, whence 
scarcely anything is visible save the 
surrounding ice-fields and the great 
neighbouring peaks, may almost rival 
that from the Jardin near Chamouni. 
The upper basin of the glacier, often 
called by the guides Grosse Eismeer, is 
reached in two hours from the Zasen- 
berg; but the way is too rough for most 
ladies. It is possible, but not very easy, 
to return to Grindelwald by the 1. bank 
of the glacier. In this excursion strang¬ 
ers going beyond the Banisegg should 
take a guide. The uniform tradition 
prevalent throughout a great portion 
of the Central Alps, which declares that 
the glaciers formerly covered consider¬ 
ably less space than they now do, ap¬ 
pears to be confirmed in the case of the 
Lower Grindelwald Glacier by authentic 
documents. It appears certain that the 
lower ice-fall occupies ground which 
was partly covered by pine forest at the 
beginning of the 17th century, and 
probable that a pass, in great part free 
from ice, existed between Grindelwald 
and the valley of the Rhone. An old 
church-bell, said to be of the 11th cen¬ 
tury, is shown at Grindelwald, and is 
believed (on what authority?) to have be¬ 
longed to a chapel of St. Petronilla which 
stood on or near to the ancient pass. 

A n excursion rarely made from Grin¬ 
delwald, yet very interesting and not 
difficult to practised mountaineers, is the 
ascentof the Mettenberg (10,443'). This 
is the great broad-topped ridge ex¬ 
tending NW. from the Schreckhorn, 
and separating the upper aud lower 
Grindelwald glaciers. It is especially 
interesting to geologists on account of 
the position of the limestone strata, 
which are curved in the form of a 
C, and underlie the gneiss of the 
Schreckhorn range. Ascending from 
the chalets of Stieregg on the rt. bank 
of the lower glacier, a short way beyond 
the Biinisegg, ‘ Grass slopes lead up to 



70 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§ 24. BERNESE OBERLAND. 


the ridge from which a view of Grindel- I 
wald is obtained, and from thence there 
is an easy (?) route along the ridge to the 
summit. This is nearly equidistant from 
the Schreckhorn, Wetterhorn, andEiger, 
of all which, as well as the low country, 
it commands very fine view's.’ [L. S.J 

Much more arduous is the ascent of 
the Klein Schreckhorn (11,473'), first 
attained by Mr. Anderson. An easier 
course was taken by Mr. H. N. Dering 
and Prof. Aeby in I 860 . Turning to 
the 1. from the way to the Strahleck 
(Rte. K) they ascended by the Nassi 
Glacier and returned to Grindelwald in 
18 hrs., including halts of 2 hrs. 

The excursion from Grindelwald 
deservedly most in favour with those 
travellers who desire to view the 
upper region of the Alps without risk 
or much fatigue, is the ascent of the 
Faulhorn (8,799'). For horses, &c., 
see tariff in the introduction to this §. 
Within the last few years many points of 
view have been made accessible which 
may count as worthy rivals to this; but 
there are few which combine an ex¬ 
tensive panorama with so grand and 
near a view of the giants of the Alps 
and great glaciers. The fact of there 
being a tolerable inn at the very sum¬ 
mit is an add.tional attraction. 

Tourists who reach Grindelwald from 
Meyringen by the Scheidegg, should 
follow the path (noticed below) leading 
from that pass to the Faulhorn; others 
usually take the direct route from Grin¬ 
delwald, which occupies about 4.^ hrs. ( 
in the ascent, and 3 hrs. in descending 
Though the way is perfectly safe for 
animals as well as men, and the track 
well beaten, it is quite possible to go 
astray, especially in the lower part of 
the ascent, where many paths branch 
off in various directions. The lower, 
part of the way lies through meadows 
and pine wood, in some places rather 
steep, and about half way passes the 
chalets or Sennhiitten of the Bachalp, 
where alpine fare, milk, bread, butter, 
and cheese, are found. Not far is a 
pretty fall of the torrent which drains 
the Bachalpsee. The path is carried 


1 along this alpine tarn lying E. of the 
Simelihorn, making a circuit round that 
peak and mounting through a wild 
hollow, where the shrill squeak of the 
marmot is often heard, and patches of 
snow often lie throughout the summer, 
till it reaches the base of the final ridge. 
A good path mounts by zigzags and 
reaches the Inn, a few yards below the 
topmost ridge of the mountain. Consi¬ 
dering the height, this supplies tole¬ 
rable quarters at not unreasonable 
prices. Travellers should recollect that 
at such a height the cold at night is 
often severe, and should be provided 
with ample covering. The bedrooms (?) 
are mere closets separated by wooden 
partitions, and contain two beds each. 
In fine weather the house is often over¬ 
crowded, and those who do not arrive 
early cannot count upon beds. 

The Faulhorn is one of the higher 
summits of the range extending be¬ 
tween the L. of Brienz and the main 
mass of the Oberland Alps. The 
panorama on the side of Switzerland is 
in itself very fine, extending from the 
mountains of Uri and the Lake of Lu¬ 
cerne, to the range of the Jura and 
the mountains W. and S. of the L. of 
Thun ; but the main feature in the view 
is the noble group of the Oberland 
peaks, of which the Finsteraarhorn, 
the Schreckhorn, and the Wetterhorn, 
are especially remarkable. The first- 
named especially, as here presented, 
seems a mere obelisk, far more slender 
and sharply pointed than the Matter¬ 
horn, and the attempt to reach the 
summit must appear a mere act of in¬ 
sanity. It must not be denied that the 
view of these and the neighbouring 
snowy peaks is somewhat injured by 
the intrusion of a ridge with two sum¬ 
mits, the Simelihorn and Rothihom, 
both exceeding the Faulhorn in height. 
These shut out from view the greater 
part of the Valley of Grindelwald and 
the Lower Glacier. ‘ Both are acces¬ 
sible from the Faulhorn, but it is use¬ 
less to ascend the former, as the view 
is partially masked by the Rothihorn. 
From the summit of the latter the tra- 



ROUTE B.—THE FAULIIOEM. 


71 


veller obtains a view similar to that 
from the Brevent, as he looks down 
upon the fertile Valley of Grindelwald, 
and across it to the great peaks of the 
Oberland Alps.’ [W. M.] 

Valuable meteorological and other 
observations were made on the Faul- 
horn during several successive seasons 
by MM. Martins and Bravais. 

Besides the way from Grindelwald 
above described, there are several 
others, that from the Scneidegg Pass 
being the easiest. A well-marked path 
winds from thencealongthe slope nearly 
at a level, until in about 2 hrs. it joins 
the path from Grindelwald in the rocky 
hollow on the E. side of the Simeli- 
horn. 

The ascent from the Giessbach is 
much longer and steeper than that 
from Grindelwald, and should not be 
undertaken without a guide; but it 
has the great advantage of presenting 
suddenly the grand view of the Ober¬ 
land peaks at a height but little below 
the summit of the mountain. The way 
lies by the Giessfall falls, and in 3 hrs. 
reaches the Tschingelfeld, an alpine 
pasture. The direct way to the summit 
is by an ill-marked track, in part up 
steep slopes of debris ; but the better 
course is by another track that joins the 
new path from the Schienige Platte, 
mentioned below. 

A still steeper way, fit only for prac¬ 
tised mountaineers, mounts from Senyy 
on the L. of Brienz. hrs. exclusive 
of halts, suffice for an active walker. 
A guide is necessary for this as well as 
the two following routes, which are but 
little used. 

From the new inn on the plateau of 
the Schienige Platte, mentioned among 
the excursions from Interlaken, a new 
bridle-path leads to the summit of the 
Fanlhorn, traversing the Iselten Alp 
and the southern slopes of the Laucher- 
horn, till it descends slightly to the 
little lake of Sagis, whence it crosses 
the ridge of the Schwalhorn to reach 
the summit. Allowance for halts, 5 
hrs. should be allowed for this expedi¬ 
tion. 


An extremely steep track mounts 
from the hamlet of Schwiinde, about 
2^ m. below Grindelwald in the defile 
of the Schwarze Liitschine. This is 
probably the shortest of all the paths 
leading to the Fanlhorn ; 4 hrs. are 
said to suffice for the ascent. 

Travellers who are unable to walk or 
ride, or who encounter bad weather, 
may go direct from Grindelwald to In¬ 
terlaken, a distance of 13 m., by the 
carriage-road which descends the val¬ 
ley of the Schwarze Liitschine, till at 
Zweiliitschinen it joins the road from 
Lauterbrunnen described below. For 
the first 3 or 4 m. the road lies through 
a mere defile, which opens somewhat 
at Buryktuenen (3,lc0'). The descent 
then becomes more rapid; the valley is 
partly obstructed by blocks fallen from 
the mountains on either side. 

In fine weather no one going from 
Grindelwald to Lauterbrunnen or In¬ 
terlaken will fail to take the track of 
the Little Scheidegg and the Wengern 
Alp; and many who desire a closer ac¬ 
quaintance with the wonders of nature 
in the Alps will be tempted to spend 
one or two days at either of the little 
inns on the way. 

The ordinary and direct path crosses 
the Schwarze Liitschine , formed by the 
union of the torrents from the two 
glaciers of Grindelwald, and mounts 
over ground rendered wet and marshy 
by landsprings to the chalets of Alpi- 
geln. Those who have not already- 
visited the base of the Unter Grindel¬ 
wald-Gletscher, may do so by a detour 
of about h hr., and at the same time 
see the Nellenbahn, or cave of St. 
Petronilla, a cavity in the limestone 
rock at the base of the Mittelegi. 
This name is given to the promontory 
extending NE. from the Eiger, which 
on this side sustains the Grindelwald 
Eismeer, leaving only the narrow open¬ 
ing between itself and the base of the 
Mettenberg, through which the ice-fall 
of the lower glacier makes its way to 
the level of the valley. The cavern is 
remarkable only for its position; the 
opening commands a striking view- of 





BERNESE ALPS. § 24. BERNESE OBERLAND. 


72 

the pinnacles of ice of the lower part 
of the ice-fall. 

The chalets of Alpigeln lie nearly 
half way in the ascent from Grindel- 
wald; strawberries, cream, coffee, See., 
tempt the passing tourist to loiter on 
the way. From hence, and throughout 
the ascent, the Eiger (13,045') asserts 
its claim to rank as one of the grandest 
objects in the whole range of the Alps. 
Less elegant, but more massive than 
the Aiguilles of Mont Blanc, it rises in 
one continuous pile of rock, so steeply 
that scarce a patch of snow can cling 
to its flanks, nearly 10,000 ft. above 
the lower glacier that lies at its base. 
The mountain does not properly form 
part of the main range. It is a huge 
limestone buttress, projecting from the 
granitic mass of the Monch, and the 
glaciers on either flank feed two 
branches of the same stream- the Lut- 
schine—that flow together to Inter¬ 
laken. (See Rte. I). The summit was 
first attained in 1858 by Mr. C. Har¬ 
rington, with Christian Aimer and 
other Grindelwald guides. The ascent, 
which was repeated in 1861 by Dr. 
Forges, and since then by several Eng¬ 
lish travellers, is usually difficult and 
laborious. The ascent is made by the 
very steep NW. angle of the mountain. 
The rocks are easy to climb, except 
when glazed with a coating of ice. 
Under very favourable circumstances 
one party, in 1864, completed the 
ascent and return to the Wengern Alp 
under 9 hrs. 

Above the chalets are some remains 
of a forest of Siberian pine ( Finns 
cembra), here called Arven—in Pied¬ 
mont and the Valais, Arolla—found 
throughout the Alpine chain, but not 
common in places visited by tourists. 
The seed is eatable, and children here 
offer the cones for sale. About 3 
hrs.’ steady walking from Grindelwald 
suffices to reach the summit of the 
Kleine Scheidegg (6,768') A very 
good little inn, II. de Bellevue, supplies 
refreshment to wayfarers, and very 
fair accommodation to those who re¬ 
main for the night. The great advan¬ 


tage of the position of the pass, which 
has made it celebrated beyond almost 
any other in the Swiss Alps, arises 
from the fact that it stands just oppo¬ 
site to the point where the Bernese 
range makes a salient angle, whose 
apex is the Eiger. From thence a 
series of high peaks rise in line to¬ 
wards the NE., ever on the left hand 
of the traveller who has followed a 
direct course from Meyringen to this 
point. On the other side the still 
higher summits of the Monch, Jung¬ 
frau, Gletscherhorn, and Mittaghorn 
follow in succession from N. to S- 
Concealed by the Eiger from trie 
neighbourhood of Grindelwald, and 
but imperfectly seen from the Faul- 
horn, the Monch and Jungfrau here 
break upon the traveller in full gran¬ 
deur, rising from the narrow gorge 
of the Trummletenthal, which lies 
like a trench cut along the base of 
this gigantic wall, while on the rt. 
hand the slopes of the Wengern Alp, 
traversed by an easy path, form a 
terrace, whence strangers from all 
countries are enabled without difficulty 
or fatigue to survey the scene. Three 
comparatively large glaciers, with 
several minor accumulations of ice, 
are found in the hollows and on 
the shelving ledges of the three peaks 
that rise above the Trummletenthal. 
To the N. is the Eiger Glacier , lying in 
the recess between the Eiger and the 
Monch. This is separated by a huge 
projecting buttress of the latter moun¬ 
tain from the Guggi Glacier. Farther 
on is the Giessen Glacier, formed, at a 
higher level than the two last, on a 
shelf of the NW. side of the Jung¬ 
frau. A vast buttress, attaining almost 
the dimensions of a mountain range, 
extends somewhat N. of W. from the 
Jungfrau. Its chief summit is the 
Silberhorn (12,106'), and it terminates in 
the rocky peak of the Schwarz Monch 
(8,675'), lying in the angle between 
the Trummletenthal and the valley of 
Lauterbrunnen. 

The name Wengern Alp is often 
given to the pass of the little Scheidegg, 





ROUTE B.—THE JUNGFRAU AVALANCHES. 


73 


hut it properly belongs to the entire 
tract of Alpine pasture on the N. side 
of the Triiinmletenthal over which the 
path to Lauterhrunnen is carried. On 
this slope, less than ^ hr. from the 
6ummit of the pass, is a large new inn 
on the site of a building formerly well 
known to tourists as Hotel de la Jung¬ 
frau. The upper inn is more conve¬ 
nient for some excursions, but the H. de 
la Jungfrau is better situated for a view 
ot the avalanches that are among the 
most striking objects attracting the 
attention of travellers who cross this 
pass. 

Such avalanches are not infrequent 
in the High Alps, but there are few 
spots where they are exhibited so fre¬ 
quently or on so grand a scale; cer¬ 
tainly none where they can be viewed 
so easily, and with so little risk or 
fatigue. This arises from local condi¬ 
tions here unusually favourable. The 
Giessen Glacier, as has been said, rests 
on a high shelf of the Jungfrau. This 
lies above a nearly vertical precipice 
of rock some 2,000 ft. in height. As 
the glacier is gradually urged over the 
edge of this precipice, huge blocks are 
from time to time detached: when they 
reach the lower level at the base of the 
precipice, the form of the ground is 
such that all the fragments fall into a 
ravine or gully nearly 1.000 ft. in ver¬ 
tical height, until at its base they issue 
upon a conical pile, or talus , of ice 
debris, forming a glacier remanie that 
descends into the depths of theTriimm- 
letenthal. Seen from the Wen gem 
Alp, at the distance of about a mile, the 
appearance of one of these avalanches 
bears no proportion to the prolonged 
roar that accompanies the fall. An 
unpractised eye may wander for a while 
o~er the vast face of the mountain with¬ 
out detecting any apparent cause for 
the peculiar and impressive sounds that 
accompany the phenomenon. A slight 
vaporous cloud, resembling the spray 
from a waterfall but more dense, is the 
first token that is perceived, and then 
a fall of what seems no more than a 
sma.l mass of snow. As the avalanches 


in warm weather are frequently re¬ 
newed—once in every ^ hr., or even 
oftener—the spectator is enabled by 
practice to seize the earlier portion of 
the operation, and to descry the ice- 
blocks at the moment when they are 
detached from the upper glacier and 
fall over the cliffs, the descent being 
partly completed before the sound 
reaches his ear. 

Travellers had long continued to 
content themselves with the distant 
view of these avalanches which is 
gained from the Wengern Alp, and were 
deterred from approaching nearer to 
the immediate scene of operations by 
hearing of many fatal accidents to men 
and cattle, struck by descending masses 
of ice or stone in the dangerous vicinity 
of the opposite cliffs. Mr. Francis 
Galton, the well-known traveller, was 
the first to discover a way by which it 
is sometimes possible to approach with 
safety to gain a near view of the ice- 
cataracts. Mr. Galton observed that 
the ravine above described is so deeply 
cut into the precipice that all the 
materials of the avalanche must fall 
through that channel; and further, 
that the rocks on the E. side of the 
base of the ravine are so formed 
that it is possible to approach close 
to the point where the avalanche 
issues from the cleft, and begins 
to spread its contents over the 
talus. It is sufficient to take such a 
course as shall avoid the possibility of 
trespassing on the path followed by 
the ice-blocks. Starting cither from 
the Bellevue or the Jungfrau Hotel, an 
easy descent leads the traveller down 
a bridge over the torrent that escapes 
from the Eiger Glacier. Beyond this 
it is necessary to cross a small glacier 
remanie, called by Mr. Galton Kuhe 
Glacier, and said to derive its name 
from the destruction of 300 cows by a 
single avalanche that fell here in the 
spring. The ascent of the base of the 
Jungfrau lies up grassy slopes broken 
by two steep terraces of rock, each 
about 30 ft. high and involving a bit 
of rather difficult scrambling. The 





74 BERNESE ALPS. § 24 

guide may carry a rope with which to 
help an inexperienced cragsman. A 
narrow belt of stony sward lies be¬ 
tween the topmost clitf and the base of 
the great precipice, and leads in H hr. 
from either inn to the lower end of 
the ravine. Here he wall find over¬ 
hanging cornices of rock where the fall 
of the avalanches may be awaited in 
perfect security. The effect is de¬ 
scribed as highly impressive, and even 
starting. Along with the roar which 
announces the approach of the main 
mass, a black cloud of snow-dust is 
shot out from above far beyond the 
observer's head. Singular to say, in 
fine weather this cloud is completely 
dissipated before it reaches the base of 
the precipice, the snow-dust being first 
melted, and then evaporated in the 
course of its descent. Subsequent tra¬ 
vellers declare that the risk of falling 
stones in approaching the spot in 
question is sometimes serious. 

A longer excursion, not difficult for 
practised mountaineers, may be made 
from either of the inns on the Wengern 
Alp. This consists in ascending the 
great buttress of the Monch lying be¬ 
tween the Eiger and Guggi glaciers, 
which is easily reached by crossing the 
former. The ascent is much less diffi¬ 
cult than it appears when seen from a 
distance, and is interesting for the near 
view of the way to the Jungfrau Joch 
(Rte. I), of which this buttress forms 
the first stage. The excursion may be 
extended to the middle plateau of the 
Guggi Glacier, or the climb may be 
continued to the summit of the but¬ 
tress. A day may be pleasantly spent 
at the Wengern Alp in wandering over 
the alpine pastures N. of the Little 
Scheidegg, lying between the two 
branches of the Liitschine. The chief 
summits are the Tschuggen and the 
Laubhorn, neither rising more than a 
few hundred feet above the plateau. 
Glorious views in various directions 
may be gained with little exertion, and 
the botanist will find the alpine flora 
richly represented. 

The ascent of the Silberhorn (12,106') 


. BERNESE OBERLAND. 

is a very laborious and difficult, and 
may be a dangerous expedition. A 
first attempt by M. v. Fellenberg was 
made from the Stufenstein Alp on 
the E. side of the valley of Lauter- 
brunnen in June 1863. After 9 hrs. 
of most perilous climbing the party 
encountered an impracticable precipice 
of rock, and were forced to return. In 
the following month of August MM. 
Biideker and v. Fellenberg, with the two 
Michels of Grindelwald, and others, 
reached the summit from the Wengern 
Alp. Ascending by the Guggi Gla¬ 
cier, they passed a night on the rocks 
at the foot of the Schneehorn, a buttress 
of the Jungfrau dividing the Guggi 
and Giessen Glaciers. On the follow¬ 
ing day they gained the desired sum¬ 
mit by a long and difficult circuit under 
the cliffs of the Jungfrau. 

Still longer and equally difficult is 
the ascent of the Jungfrau , first effected 
from this side in 1865 by Mr. H. B. 
George, and Sir G. Young, w r ith 
Christian Aimer and J. Baumaun as 
guides. Having passed the night on 
the rocks of the Schneehorn they 
gained next morning the Silber Lucke, 
the depression between the Jungfrau 
and Silberhorn, and thence in little 
more than 3 hrs. reached the summit. 
Descending to the Aletsch Gl. they 
crossed the Monch Joch, and passed a 
second miserable night on the rocks, 
reaching Grindelwald next day after 
21^ hrs. actual walking. 

Attempts to reach the summit of the 
Monch from the Wengern Alp have 
hitherto been unsuccessful (see Rte. I) 

The track leading from the Wengern 
Alp to Lauterbrunnen turns to the 
NW. away from the Triimmletenthal, 
and is so well traced that it is impos¬ 
sible to miss the way. On reaching 
the verge of the steep descent into 
the valley of Lauterbrunnen, there is a 
choice of paths. The main track goes 
down directly to the village, but those 
who wish to reach Interlaken at once 
may save nearly 4 hr. by taking a path 
to thert., still steeper than the other, 
by which they gain a bridge over the 



ROUTE B.—LAUTERBRUNNEN. 


75 


Liitschine leading to the carriage-road 
1 m. lower down. In descending from 
the Little Scheidegg 2^ hrs. (5^ hrs. 
from Grindelwald), exclusive of halts, 
suffice to reach 

Lauterbrunnen (Inn: Steinbock or 
Capricorne, good, but very dear; H. 
Lauterbrunnen; H. Staubbach, rather 
rough but clean), a small village 
(2,7-30'), famous for the surrounding 
scenery. Being within a drive of 1^ 
hr. from Interlaken, comparatively few 
tourists who pass this way sleep here. 
Means of conveyance — horses and 
chaises-a-porteur—with guides and por¬ 
ters in abundance, are in readiness here, 
and the population of the valley de¬ 
pends more on the annual harvest of 
strangers than on the scanty produce of 
the soil. The brothers Ulrich and Chris¬ 
tian Lauener(named in the Introduction 
as guides) live near the village, and there 
are several other men fit to undertake 
difficult expeditions. A younger Chris¬ 
tian Lauener, nephew of the first, 
is said to be a rising guide, while a 
third man of the same name, much 
older than the others, is an expe¬ 
rienced and steady man, but rather 
over-cautious. Johann Bischof, on the 
contrary, is a bold mountaineer, apt 
to err on the side of rashness. He 
has made the ascent of the Jungfrau, 
Bliimlis Alp, Doldenhorn, &c. 

The Valley of Lauterbrunnen is one 
of the deepest in the Alpine chain 
when compared with the height of 
the mountains that rise directly on 
either side. It is a true cleft, 
rarely more than £ mile in width, be¬ 
tween limestone precipices, sometimes 
quite perpendicular, everywhere of 
extreme steepness. It is to this form 
of the valley that it owes the numerous 
waterfalls from which it derives its 
name. The streams descending from 
the adjoining mountains, on reaching 
the verge of the rocky walls of the 
valley, form cascades so lofty that they 
are almost lost in spray before they 
reach the level of the valley. The 
most famous of these is the Staubbach 
—-literally Dust-Cascade—within less 


than \ m. of the inn at Lauterbrunnen. 
After rain, and early in the season 
when fed by the melting snows, this is 
a very striking object. The force of 
the stream above the fall is then suffi¬ 
cient to carry the water clear of the 
precipice, and the whole mass descends 
in a condition of liquid dust, between 
spray and cloud, that swrnys to and fro 
with the gentlest breeze. In a dry 
summer, when the supply of water is 
much reduced, the effect is compara¬ 
tively insignificant. The height of the 
cascade is between 800 and 900 ft, 
probably the highest in Europe formed 
of a single unbroken fall. That of 
Gavarnie exceeds this considerably in 
total height, but is broken on an inter¬ 
mediate ledge. The Staubbach should 
be seen in the morning when the sun 
falls on it from the SE. ; the effect is 
also very striking by moonlight. For 
the excursion to the Schmadribach 
and the head of the valley, one of the 
most interesting to be made from Lau¬ 
terbrunnen, see Rte. F. 

An extremely interesting expedi¬ 
tion, which may be combined with the 
passage of the Sefinen Furke (Rte. F), 
but is now often made by tourists 
from Interlaken, is the ascent to Mur- 
ren and the adjoining peak of the 
Schilthorn. The bridle-path to Murren 
turns aside close to the village of Lau¬ 
terbrunnen, and ascends through a 
ravine cut by a mountain torrent in¬ 
to the W. wall of the valley. The 
way is steep, but has the advantage of 
being shaded from the sun. From 
time to time the traveller gains beauti¬ 
ful views, in anticipation of the wider 
prospect that awaits him higher up. 
After mounting about 1,000 ft. above 
the valley, the path attains the upper 
pastures, bears to the 1., and crosses 
the Pletschbach, which is the stream 
that feeds the Staubbach cascade; the 
bridge is reached in 1^ hr. from Lau¬ 
terbrunnen. The direction now fol¬ 
lowed is nearly due S., parallel to that 
of the main valley, the ascent being 
gentle, and lying in part through pine 
forest. The views, as the path reaches 



76 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§ 24 . BERNESE OBERLAND. 


projecting points on the slope, are 
more and more grand, and in 2^ hrs. 
the traveller reaches the hamlet of 
Miirren (5,348'), a group of old houses 
built of pine-trunks, grown black 
from age, with a new inn (zum Silber- 
horn), affording excellent accommoda¬ 
tion. There have been some complaints 
as to prices; but recent accounts are 
favourable. Those who remain some 
days may well make an agreement as 
to terms. Johann Feuz of Miirren is 
said to be a good local guide. 

Very few points can be named in 
the Alps that surpass this mountain 
hamlet in the magnificence of the view 
that is laid before the eyes of its in¬ 
habitants, but, until lately, it was un¬ 
known and unheeded by strangers. It 
may be compared in some respects with 
that from the Flegere, in the valley of 
Chamouni, or the Riffel Inn, above 
Zermatt; but neither of those sites 
overlook a trench so deep and precipi¬ 
tous as the valley of Lauterbrunnen; 
and the base of the Mont Blanc range, 
and that of the peaks above Zermatt, 
exhibit no such formidable ranges of 
precipices as those of the W. face of 
the Silberhorn and Jungfrau, and the 
circuit of great peaks extending thence 
to the Tschingelhorn. The view is ra¬ 
ther more complete from the Almend- 
hubel, £ hr. above the inn. 

The ascent of the Schilthorn (9,728') 
from Miirren cannot be called a diffi¬ 
cult expedition, but it requires a guide, 
and is somewhat too rough and fatigu¬ 
ing for ladies who are not much used 
to alpine walking. A rough path 
mounts NW. over alpine pasture and 
slaty rocks; after crossing the head of 
a stream it turns S W. through a narrow 
glen called Engethal. At the head of 
this glen, which commands a fine view 
of the peak, it is necessary to descend 
a little, passing on the N. side of a 
rocky hollow, which contains a dark 
pool or tarn. Crossing the stream that 
issues from a small glacier on the slope 
of the Schilthorn, a steep climb over 
loose slate leads us up to a minor sum¬ 
mit, called Klein Schilthorn. This is 


connected with the highest peak by a 
rocky ridge, falling away rather steeply 
on either side, and leading to the final 
peak of the mountain. Of the view, it 
is enough to say that it deserves to 
rank near to that from the Cramont 
(§16, Rte. B). The summit is reached 
in 3^ hrs., exclusive of halts. In des¬ 
cending, the mountaineer may avoid 
the ridge and the Lesser Schilthorn by 
a glissade down the snow slopes. 

Those who wish to visit the upper 
valley of Lauterbrunnen may turn SE. 
from the little tarn above mentioned, 
and follow a track by the Giimelen Alp 
(see Rte. F), where there is now a little 
mountain inn. Descending by the Se- 
finenthal into the main valley, Trach- 
sellauenen is thence reached in 2 hrs. 

The road from Lauterbrunnen to 
Interlaken lies through very beautiful 
near scenery; but it is only here and 
there that, on looking back, it is pos¬ 
sible to gain a glimpse of the snowy 
peaks that enclose the upper part of 
the valley. The road lies all the way 
along the 1. bank of the Weisse Liit- 
schine, so called to distinguish it from 
the other branch descending from 
Grindelwald. For the first 3 m. the 
valley is contracted between the base 
of the Vogelfluh on the W., and the 
still bolder tower-like mass of the 
Hunnevjluh on the E. bank. On the 
l. of the road is the opening of the 
ravine of the Sausbach. A path leads 
that way to the Kienthal (Rte. E), 
passing the village of Isenfluli, which 
stands about 1,600 ft. above the valley 
of Lauterbrunnen. Though the view 
thence is not equal to that from Miirren, 
it well rewards the ascent, which may 
be made in rather more than 1 hr. from 
the road. 

At Zweiliitschinen (Inn: Bar, not 
bad), rather more than 3 m. from Lau¬ 
terbrunnen, is the meeting of the two 
branches of the Liitschine, and of the 
valleys of Lauterbrunnen and Grindel¬ 
wald. On the 1., after passing the 
junction, is a block of stone, called 
Bbsestein, that owes its title to the 
murder of a Baron Rothenflue, here 



ROUTE C.—THE VALLEY OF HASLI. 


committed by his brother. On the 
opposite side of the valley is seen the 
plateau of the Schienige Platte. From 
the new inn there it is not difficult to 
reach the lake of Siigis and the summit 
of the Faulhorn. At the opening of 
Saxetenthal, a path leading to the 
Kanderthal (Rte. E) turns to the 1. at 
the hamlet of Miilinen, and a few 
hundred yards farther is WHderschwyl. 
A little farther are the ruins of the 
castle of Unspunnen. picturesquely 
situated on an isolated rock, deservedly 
a favourite point among the short ex¬ 
cursions from Interlaken, which is less 
than 2 m. distant 


Route C. 

MEiRINGEN TO BRIEG, BY THE GRIM- 
SEL. 

Hrs.’ Eng. 
walking miles 


Guttannen ; 

3 

9 

Handeck . . 

. 2 

5 

Grimsel Hospice . 

2 

5 

Obergestelen 

• 2* 

6 

M tins ter 

• 1* 

^2 

Viesch . . • 

. 3* 

10* 

Brieg . 

• H 

12* 


m 

52* 


The distance by the new road be¬ 
tween Brieg and Obergestelen is com¬ 
monly reckoned 9^ Swiss leagues, but 
this is an over-estimate. 

In the two preceding rtes. the por¬ 
tions of the Oberland, belonging to 
Canton Berne, most accessible, and 
most frequented by strangers, have 
been described. Next to the circuit 
leading the tourist from Interlaken by 
Brienz, Meyringen, Grindelwald, and 
Lauterbrunnen, back to his starting- 
point, the route most often followed is 
that which follows the Aar up to its 
sources in the great glaciers that en¬ 
compass the bases of the Finsteraar- 
horn and the Schreckhorn, the point 
usually aimed at being the Hospice of 
the Grimsel. Of late years, since it 


77 

has been known that the part of the 
Alps wherein the phenomenon of gla¬ 
ciers may be seen on the grandest 
scale is on the S. slope of the Oberland 
range, travellers have begun to frequent 
the Upper Valais, lying between the 
Glacier of the Rhone and Brieg at the 
foot of the Simplon. The carriage-road, 
lately completed from Viesch to the 
Furca by the Rhone Glacier, has 
much facilitated the approach of tou¬ 
rists to this side of the Oberland range, 
which belongs altogether to the Cantor 
Valais. The excursions which are 
within the reach of ordinary tourists 
are described in this and the following 
rtes. 

Meyringen and the Reichenbach are 
described in the last rte., wherein the 
traveller quitted the lower valley of 
Hasli in order to reach Grindelwald 
by the Scheidegg. The way to the 
Grimsel aud the valley of the Rhone 
lies through the Haslitlial, nearly to 
the point where the Aar breaks out 
from its parent glacier. The char-road 
along the 1. bank of the Aar is carried 
for about 4^ miles beyond the Reichen¬ 
bach Hotel, and a paved track ex¬ 
tends to the Grimsel, so that a guide 
is quite unnecessary. Above the vil¬ 
lage of Meyringen the valley is tra¬ 
versed by a rocky barrier, 400 or 500 
ft. in height, called the Kirchet. 

It is by no means uncommon to en¬ 
counter such barriers in the ascent of 
an alpine valley. Tnev usua^y mark 
the ascent from a lower level to a 
higher step or plateau. In many of 
these cases there is reason to believe 
that the dam thrown across the valley 
must originally have formed a lake, 
which, in the lapse of ages, has been 
filled up, so as to form a flat gravelly 
plain, level with its summit. In the 
case of the Kirchet a similar process 
must have been going on; but long 
before the basin had been filled, the 
Aar seems to have cut for itself through 
the limestone rock a deep and narrow 
cleft, through which it makes its way 
to the lower valley. The cleft which 
gives a passage to the Aar could not, 








78 


BERNESE ALPS. § 24 . BERNESE OBERLAND. 


however, even if it then existed, serve 
the same purpose when the great gla¬ 
cier of the Aar descended through the 
valley of Hasli. The traces of former 
glacial action, which are seen on so 
great a scale throughout the entire 
valley, are nowhere more obvious than 
on the Kirchet. The surface still gives 
evidence of the passage of the glacier 
in the general outline of the limestone 
rocks, and in the scoring and stria- 
tion of the surface in places where the 
marks have been protected from the 
weather. A vast number of blocks of 
gneiss, derived from the central part of 
the range, were deposited on the Kir¬ 
chet during the retirement of the 
glacier, and have been used in the 
construction of the Nydeck bridge at 
Berne, and for other buildings. 

The cleft by which the Aar traverses 
the Kirchet is called in the local dialect 
Finstere Schlauche—in guide books, 
Finster Aar Schlucht. It is accessible 
at one point by another cleft which 
descends at right angles to it from a 
point near the road. A guide-post 
directs the traveller to this lateral cleft, 
wherein the entomologist may find 
some extremely rare beetles. The de¬ 
scent, which is well worth the trouble, 
is not difficult. The rights of property 
over this worthless tract of rock are 
asserted by a native who levies, or did 
levy, a toll on the curiosity of strangers. 

From the summit of the Kirchet the 
traveller gains a fine view towards the 
head of the valley. Immediately below 
him lies the green plain, or ancient lake- 
bed, called Hasli Grund, forming the 
lower end of the OLer Haslithal, which 
opens to the SE. To the N. of E. is 
the valley of Gadmen (§ 25, Rte. E), 
and in the opposite direction, but at a 
higher level, the Urbachthal (Rte. M) 
penetrates into the heart of the snowy 
range. Those who wish to gain a pass¬ 
ing acquaintance with the latter fine 
valley, may take a track to the rt. from 
the SE. slope of the Kirchet. A short 
excursion will suffice to give some idea 
of its very grand scenery. On return¬ 
ing it is possible to reach Guttannen by 


the 1. bank of the Aar, following a very 
rough track through a pine forest that 
covers the W. slope of the valley. 

The road winds in zigzags down the 
E. slope of the Kirchet, traverses the 
plain, and crosses the Aar to Im Hof, 
a hamlet with a good inn kept by A. 
Niigeli, at the junction of the valleys of 
Gadmen and Hasli. Not far off on 
the way to Gadmen is Miihlestalden, 
where lives Andreas Weissenfluh, a 
good and careful guide, well acquainted 
with the neighbouring Alps. His fa* 
ther, now rather past active work, was 
a well-known guide. 

The ascent of the Mahrenhorn, which 
may be made from Im Hof, is described 
in § 25, Rte. G. A paved track leads 
from Im Hof to the Grimsel. The 
scenery of the middle portion of the 
valley is fine, the rock and pine forest 
of the nearer slopes being often backed 
by some of the bold peaks that enclose 
it on the E. side. Nearly 1 hr. above 
Im Hof the path returns to the 1. bank 
of the Aar at Schwanden. The valley 
widens at Im Boden—where the widow 
of the famous guide, J. Leuthold, offers 
refreshment at a wayside cottage—then 
again narrows to a defile, and in about 
2 hrs. from Im Hof reaches 

Guttannen (Inn : Hirsch, fairly good 
and reasonable), the highest village in 
the valley, 3,534 ft. above the sea. The 
upper valley of Hasli is a wild and 
barren glen, seemingly suffering from 
an especially ungenial climate, as culti¬ 
vation here stops short at a far lower 
level than in other parts of Switzerland. 
The village has been twice burned down 
in this century, and suffered severely 
from the storm of 1834. This does not 
seem to have affected unfavourably the 
physical condition of the people. The 
men are usually active and muscular, 
and will carry weights over the rough 
mountain paths that w r ould not be at¬ 
tempted by well-fed townsmen. Soon 
after leaving Guttannen the track crosses 
to the rt. bank at the picturesque bridge 
of Tschingelmatt, and rather more than 
1 m. farther on returns to the 1. bank. 
The vegetation becomes more alpine 




ROUTE C.—GEIMSEL HOSPICE. 


79 


in character; the summits of the Gel- 
merhorner are seen above the rt. bank 
of the valley, and the path ascends 
through a forest when a distant roar, 
gradually growing more distinct, an¬ 
nounces the approach to the famous 
waterfall of the Handeek. This is cer¬ 
tainly one of the finest in the Alps, and 
has the unusual privilege of never lan¬ 
guishing for want of water. The Aar, 
after flowing rapidly for some distance 
through a narrow channel, suddenly 
springs over a rocky ledge, and de¬ 
scends, at a single bound of 200 ft., into 
a dark chasm whence clouds of spray 
ceaselessly rise, as if driven up by blasts 
from some subterranean cavern. There 
are two points of view which should 
not be missed. One of these is in front 
and some way below the fall, reached 
by a narrow path turning to the 1. from 
the bridle-track ; the other is from a 
wooden bridge thrown across the stream 
immediately over the fall. The effect 
here is most impressive, rather too 
powerful for the nerves of some visitors, 
who cannot bear to look down on the 
rushing flood at the moment when it 
leaps wildly into the void. The effect 
is heightened by the circumstance that 
another, but much more slender, tor¬ 
rent, called the Arlenbach, happens to 
join the Aar just at this point. Its 
clear waters spring from a*lateral cleft 
into the abyss, and before reaching the 
bottom are mingled with the murky 
flow of the Aar, here laden with the 
fine mud of its parent glaciers. 

Within a few hundred yards of the 
fall is a chalet inn (5,159') of humble 
pretensions, except in its prices, where 
travellers usually halt to rest their 
horses, and to take refreshment. When 
the hospice at the Grimsel is over¬ 
crowded, which happens not unfre- 
quently in summer, it is better to put 
up with the rough accommodation 
found here, but it is wise not to rely on 
the mere assurance of the innkeeper. 
[A pleasant excursion may be made 
to the Gelmer See, on the opposite, or 
E., side of the valley. ‘ It is reached 
in about 1 hr. by a steep path, occa¬ 


sionally aided by ladders fixed against 
the cliffs.’—[W. G. A.] Above the 
lake an alpine glen mounts to the N. 
amid glacier-clad summits. By this 
way it may be possible to reach the 
summit of the Diech ter horn (10,583').] 
The head of the valley of Hasli from 
the Handeek to the Grimsel presents 
some of the wildest scenes that can be 
found at so moderate a height. The 
pines and Siberian fir gradually dwin¬ 
dle, and give place to a vegetation in 
which rhododendron and alpine willows 
predominate. The former presence of 
a great glacier filling up the valley to 
a great height is made manifest, even 
to the least observant traveller, by the 
smooth domes and bosses of granite, with 
rounded outlines, still preserving the 
furrows and scratches due to the pas¬ 
sage of the glacier. The path ascends 
over some of these slopes, where the 
rock is so slippery that it has been 
necessary to hew steps in order to 
secure a footing for beasts of burden. 
The most remarkable of these is called 
Helle Platte, which has been corrupted 
into Hdllen Platte. When covered with 
a thin coating of snow, as sometimes 
happens even in summer, care is re¬ 
quired to avoid a dangerous slip. The 
track crosses and recrosses the Aar by 
rude bridges without parapets, and tra¬ 
verses a torrent descending from the 
Bdchli Glacier, on the W. side of the 
main valley. But a single chalet—at 
the stony pasturage of Ratrichsboden— 
is passed on the way. At a point where 
the Aar makes an abrupt turn to the 
W. the stream is crossed for the last 
time, and a rather rapid but short ascent 
leads to the 

Grimsel Hospice, originally esta¬ 
blished to receive poor travellers gra¬ 
tuitously, but now, to all practical 
intents, an inn. It had previous])' 
given cause for many complaints, but, 
the management having changed in 
1864, is improved somewhat. The 
latest accounts are, however, unfavour¬ 
able, and the rooms are close and 
small. The position is so favourable 
for many excursions that travellers put 






80 


BERNESE ALPS. § 24 . BERNESE OBERLAND. 


up with slight discomfort sooner than 
seek lodging elsewhere. 

Nothing can be more dreary than 
the position of this massive stone build¬ 
ing, 6,129 ft. above the level of the sea, 
in the midst of a rugged amphitheatre 
of nearly bare rock. Tw r o mountain 
tarns, whose dark waters reflect the 
bare rocks around, lie near the build¬ 
ing. 

Originally a religious foundation, 
the Hospice was maintained after the 
Reformation as a refuge for passing 
travellers. Th“ landlord, -who must 
derive a large income from the con¬ 
stant passage of travellers in summer, 
is bound to keep here one or two men 
during the winter, who provide food 
and lodging for the few persons who 
pass in that season. Weeks sometimes 
elapse without the appearance of a 
stranger, but in fine weather there is 
even in that season some traffic, which 
consists in the exchange of Oberland 
cheeses for wine and spirits from the 
Valais. The pass was held for some 
time by the Swiss and Austrian troops 
during the campaign of 1799, but the 
position was forced by the French un¬ 
der Gudin. Arriving from the valley 
of Hasli, they worked on the fears and 
the cupidity of a native of Guttannen, 
who w T as induced to lead a detachment 
by a steep and difficult track over the 
mountain called Niigelis Griitli, E. of 
the Hospice. When the position was 
simultaneously attacked in front, the 
appearance of an enemy in the rear 
decided the retreat of the Austrians. 
The present building is new, the former 
Hospice having been feloniously burned 
in 1852 by Zybach, long favoui’ably 
known to travellers as an attentive 
and intelligent host. Though the 
site is seemingly well chosen, the 
building has several times suffered from 
avalanches. The climate of the Grim- 
sel appears to be exceptionally severe. 
Rain and snow fall here more fre¬ 
quently than elsewhere throughout the 
summer, and the soil is constantly kept 
at a low temperature by the melting of 
snow and ice from the adjoining heights. 


It is probable that the position of the 
pass, nearly at the meeting of the val¬ 
leys of the Rhone, Aar, Reuss, Ticino, 
and Tosa, and surrounded on every side 
by mountains, may account for its cli- 
matal peculiarities. Of the excursions 
to be made from this central point, the 
most interesting is that to the Unteraar 
Glacier. This is in many ways one of 
the most remarkable ice-streams of the 
Alps, and is at the same time one of the 
most easy of access. A moderately 
good walker, w T ho desires to gain a near 
acquaintance with the upper region of 
the Alps, should go at least as far as 
the Abschwung, but will be well re¬ 
warded for his trouble if he should 
extend his excursion up the Finster- 
aar branch of the glacier towards the 
base of the Finsteraarhorn. (See Rte. 
K.) The Oberaar Glacier may also 
occupy a day. The ascent to the 
Oberaarjoch (Rte. O) is not difficult as 
compared with the descent on the S. 
side by the Viesch Glacier, and a mode¬ 
rate walker may easily go and return 
in the day. A guide should be taken 
for the glacier excursions. Melchior 
Sclilappi, a servant at the Hospice, has 
acted as porter in several glacier expe¬ 
ditions, and is very well spoken of. 
He requires only experience to become 
an excellent guide. 

The finest panoramic view in this 
neighbourhood is that from the Sidel- 
horn (9,449'), a projecting point in the 
range which here divides the cantons 
Berne and Valais. The summit may 
be reached in 3 hrs. from the Hospice, 
and a person w r ell used to mountain 
walking will scarcely require a guide. 
The path leading to the Todten-see 
(see below) is followed for about 20 
min. The ascent then lies up the 
slopes to the rt. The upper part of 
the ridge is rough. A first summit, 
called Klein JSidelhorn (9,075'), offers 
a view but little inferior to that from 
the highest point. This may be 
reached in little more than 2 hrs., 
and will save the less enterprising 
traveller nearly an hour’s walk on 
very rough ground. The view is 




ROUTE C.—EXCURSIONS FROM THE GRIMSEL. 


81 


deservedly celebrated. The peaks that 
surround the head of the valley of 
the Rhone are here fully seen, and 
the near mass of the Finsteraar- 
horn has few rivals for boldness and 
rugged grandeur. An active moun¬ 
taineer may easily combine a visit to 
the Oberaar Glacier on the same day 
with the ascent of the Sidelhorn. 
Some unite both the glaciers along 
with the ascent in a single day’s 
excursion, but this can be recom¬ 
mended only to those who do not care 
to see any of them thoroughly. The 
lower glacier is certainly more than 
enough for a full day's excursion. 
The return from the Sidelhorn to the 
Grimsel may be made by a mountain 
tarn called the Trubten See (7,772'), 
and by the N. slopes of the mountain. 
Those bound for Obergestelen may 
with a guide descend thither from the 
summit over very rough ground, with¬ 
out returning to the Hospice. 

The Loffelliorn (10,138') is a higher 
summit in the same range as the Sidel¬ 
horn, lying S. of the Oberaar Gla¬ 
cier, and immediately overlooking the 
Rhone valley. It is decidedly superior 
to the Sidelhorn in the view of the 
Oberland peaks, but is little visited, as 
it involves a laborious ascent of nearly 
6,000 ft from Munster (see below). 
It may probably be much more easily 
accessible from the N. side, starting 
from the Grimsel, but the Editor has 
not heard of the attempt having been 
made. 

The ascent of the Juchlistock (8,633'), 
may be made in hrs. from the Hos¬ 
pice. This is the E. extremity of the 
range forming the N. boundary of the 
Unteraar Glacier. The view is in¬ 
teresting ; it commands the entire 
range on the E. side of the valley of 
Hasli, not well seen from any other 
point so easy of access. It also brings 
to light a considerable glacier district, 
whose existence might be scarcely 
suspected even by one well acquainted 
with the neighbouring ranges S. of the 
Urbachthal is a high tract lying be¬ 
tween the Rizlihorn (10,774'), and the 

FART II. 


Hiihnerthalistock (10.607'), whence the 
Aelpli Glacier descends about due E., 
and the Bdchli Glacier to SE., towards 
the base of the Juchlistock. 

Another interesting expedition from 
the Grimsel is to cross the ridge called 
Niigelis Griitli, and so reach the mid¬ 
dle plateau of the Rhone Glacier. 
There is an easier way which turns to 
the 1. at the Todten-see, and lies along 
the Saasberg immediately above the 
Mayenwand. Those who have merely 
seen the Rhone Glacier from below 
can form no conception of its vast 
dimensions. (See § 25, Rte. F.) 

The direct way from the Grimsel to 
Obergestelen—about 2 hrs.’ walk or 2^- 
hrs. in mounting from the Valais—is not 
very interesting ; and most travellers 
make the detour by the footof the Rhone 
Glacier, involving but little loss of time, 
as the whole distance is easily traversed 
in 3 hrs. by an active pedestrian. The 
way being in part very rough, mules 
take from 3^ to 4 hrs. 

The bridle-track mounts from the 
Hospice along the W. and S. side of 
the little lake, skirting the E. end or 
the Sidelhorn range, and in about 2 m. 
reaches a slight depression, locally 
called Hauseck, which marks the sum¬ 
mit of the Grimsel Pass , 7,103 ft. 
above the sea. A. marshy plateau 
with rare Carices, e. g. C. microsty/a, 
C. Laggeri, See., and a small dreary lake 
called the Todten-see, lie a few feet 
below the level of the pass. The ridge 
to the 1. extending towards the Rhone 
Glacier is called the Saasberg. When 
the clouds lie low, or the ground is 
covered with snow, it is very easy to 
miss the way on this plateau; and as a 
general rule it is better for those who 
cross the pass, or make excursions 
hereabouts in doubtful weather, to take 
a guide. Many good mountaineers 
have been involved in serious difficul¬ 
ties within two or three miles of the 
Hospice. 

The geologist will observe with 
interest the traces of glacial action 
that are not only apparent in the 
neighbourhood of the Hospice and on 



82 


BERNESE ALPS. § 24 . BERNESE OBERLAND. 


the rocks surrounding the lakes, but 
even up to and above the summit of 
the pass, indicating by the direction of 
the furrows that the vast mass of ice 
that once filled the head of the valley 
of Hasli must have flowed over 
the Grimsel Pass towards the Valais. 
Neither will he fail to remark the con¬ 
trast between the rough and jagged 
outlines of the upper ridges, that have 
never undergone the planing action of 
the glacier, with the condition of those 
parts that lay below the level of the 
ancient ice-streams. This may be 
very well seen in ascending the Si-del- 
horn or the Juchlistock. 

On the NW. side of the Todten-sec 
there is a choice between two paths. 
That passing W. of the lake leads to 
Obergestelen by a rough and unin¬ 
teresting way, which keeps, with some 
deviations, a general direction about 
due S. It is also possible to descend 
to Oberwald, where the path joins the 
new road from Brieg. The track to 
the Rhone Glacier passes on the N. 
side of the lake, and soon reaches the 
brink of the steep descent overlooking 
the foot of the glacier. This slope is 
called Magenwand, from the numerous 
alpine flowers that cover it in the 
spring and early summer, and afford a 
rich harvest to the botanist. The path 
has been improved, so that there is no 
danger in riding down, but it is so 
steep that ladies usually prefer to walk. 
H hr. on foot, or about 2 hrs. with 
mules, suffice to reach the new inn 
built very near the foot of the Rhone 
Glacier. The old inn was a poor 
place; the new hotel opened by Seiler, 
who died in 1865, is well managed and 
will be found the best place for head¬ 
quarters in this neighbourhood. Save 
for the purpose of excursions to the 
Aar Glaciers, it should be preferred 
to the Grimsel, which is but a little 
more elevated, this being 5,752 ft. 
above the sea. 

.The Rhone Glacier is the finest ex¬ 
ample in the Alps of what may be 
called the fan shaped glacier. Origi¬ 
nating in a vast basin of neve on the 


W. side of the Galenstock, the ice- 
stream issues through a comparatively 
narrow portal, and is then left, free 
from the pressure of containing walls, 
to assume its natural form on the slope 
of the mountain. The result is, that it 
expands in a beautifully regular horse¬ 
shoe form, and the crevasses appear, 
like the sticks of a fan, to radiate from 
a centre. The lower part of the gla 
cier may he traversed without much 
trouble, though the crevasses are some¬ 
times rather wide. Travellers not ac¬ 
customed to ice-work should on no 
account go without a guide. On the 
W. side, or rt. bank of the glacier, 
the regularity of its form is broken in 
one place by a fine waterfall, which 
bursts out from under the ice at a 
place where this breaks over a ledge of 
rock, and falls to a lower portion of' 
the bed through an icy chasm at the 
base of the rock. There is a rough 
path along the W. hank, by which it is 
easy to approach the fall. The rough 
ground at the foot of the glacier, and 
the adjoining slopes, afford a rich har¬ 
vest to the botanist. Among the rare 
plants found here may be noted 
Achillea valesiaca, Carex bicolor , Kcele- 
ria hirsuta, and many species of Hiera- 
cium. For further information as to 
the Rhone Glacier see § 25, Rte. F, and 
§ 30, Rte. C. A diligence now plies 
daily in about 12 hrs. between Ander- 
matt and Brieg. Places may also be 
secured at Hospenthal. The travellers 
going in either direction dine at Seiler’s 
inn at the Rhine Glacier. 

An active walker may easily reach 
Obergestelen in U hr. from the inn at 
the foot of the glacier. The new road 
replaces the bridle-path along the rt. 
bank of the Rhone, here a mere glacier 
torrent, through a picturesque glen to 
Oberwald (4,426'), where there is a new 
inn (H. de la Furca). Chars may often 
be found here by those who wish to 
cross the Furca (§ 30, Rte. C), or to 
descend through the valley of the 
Rhone to Vieseh or Brieg. 

Here commences the characteristic 
scenery of the Upper Valais. Abroad 




63 


ROUTE C.-UPrER VALAIS. 


nearly level trench lies between slopes 
of uniform height and inclination, usu¬ 
ally clad with pine forest; and except 
in the neighbourhood of Viesch there 
is not much of variety to attract the 
traveller’s attention. The valley is so 
straight that the pass of the Furca, 
which forms its natural termination to 
the ENE., remains almost always in 
sight, and in the opposite direction the 
beautiful peak of the Weisshorn is an 
object of constant interest. 2i miles of 
level road lead from Oberwald to 

Obergestelen (Inn: ChevalBlanc,good 
and reasonable), a small village. 4,393 ft. 
above the sea, at the meeting of several 
alpine paths. It was burned to the 
ground in 1868,and overwhelmed by an 
avalanche in 1720, when 84 lives were 
lost. At Ulrichcn , 1^- m. lower down 
the valley, is the junction of the Egin - 
enthal , through which lies the path lead¬ 
ing to the passes of Gries and Nufenen; 
3 m. farther on is 

Munster (Inn : Goldenes Kreuz,very 
fair country inn ; reasonable prices). 
The chief inducement to halt here is 
the excursion to the Loffelhorn (10,138'). 
a peak N. of the village in the range 
dividing the Oberaar Glacier from the 
Rhone valley. From the summit a 
ridge stretches down towards the Rhone 
dividing the Miinsterthal from the 
Triitzithal. The path mounts along 
the SW. slope of the latter glen. In 
about 3^ hrs. the traveller reaches a 
mountain tarn called Triitzi-see (8,498'), 
one of the highest in the Alps; he passes 
this on the E. side, and then turning to 
the 1. ascends nearly due W. over a 
small glacier to the highest peak formed 
of steep and shattered rocks mingled 
with snow. Fully 5 hrs., exclusive of 
halts, should be allowed for the ascent. 
The view is of the highest order. The 
Finsteraarhorn range is seen to great 
perfection, but it includes no glacier 
scenery that can compare with the view 
from the Aeggischhorn (Rte. D). Peter 
Bacher and Anton Guntern, of Munster, 
have been recommended as guides. Less 
than 2 m. below Munster is Reckingen, 
at the opening of the Blinnenthal, 

G 


noticed in § 29. About 3^- m. farther, 
at Niederwald (small country inn), the 
valley narrows, and the scenery becomes 
more interesting. The botanist may 
here find Nasturtium pyrenaicum , and 
some other species characteristic of the 
Valais flora. Several picturesque ham¬ 
lets— Bellwald on the rt., Miihlebach 
and iErnen on the 1., are seen as the tra¬ 
veller approaches the deep ravine called 
Vieselier-tobel, through which the tor¬ 
rent from the Viesch Glacier descends 
to join the Rhone close to the village 
of 

Viesch (Inn: ZumVieschergletscher, 
small but good; H. des Alpes), 3,816 ft. 
above the sea; a place of resort owing 
to the attractions of the neighbouring 
iEggischhorn. (See next Rte.) Guides, 
mules, chars, and larger carriages may 
be hired here. Lorenz Ivredig has 
been recommended as a voiturier. The 
charge for a char to the Rhone Glacier 
is 20 fr.; to Brieg, 10 fr., to Visp, 
14 fr. A traveller, who has come so 
far with horses or mules from the 
Canton Berne, is liable to be deprived 
of them by the local regulations of 
the Valais authorities, ever dictated 
by a narrow and grasping spirit. 
(See the introduction to this chap¬ 
ter.) 

After passing Lax (Inn: Kreuz, 
clean and good), the home of J. J. 
Bennen, a famous guide (whose loss by 
an avalanche in the ascent of an in¬ 
significant mountain in Feb. 1861, 
has been a matter of general regret), 
the even slope of the valley is broken 
by a rapid descent over a barrier 
of rock, while the Rhone forces its 
way through a deep and narrow ravine 
which it has excavated for itself, re¬ 
ceiving at the same time the waters 
flowing from the Binnenthal (§ 29, Rte. 
C). The road crosses the Rhone and 
returns to the rt. bank nearly a mile 
lower down. A sensible change of 
climate, corresponding to the rapid 
descent, is felt before reaching Moril 
(Inn: H.Eggischhorn,tolerable), 2,690 
ft. in height, or 1,126 ft. below Viesch. 
About 2 m. farther the road crosses 

2 




84 


BERNESE ALPS. § 24 . BERNESE OBERLAND. 


the Massa, as the short stream is called 
that carries the drainage of the Aletsch 
•Glacier to join the Rhone In pro¬ 
portion to the greatness of the ice- 
stream that supplies it. are the dimen¬ 
sions of this torrent, or rather river. 
Varying with accidental changes of 
season, this single stream usually ex¬ 
ceeds in volume the Rhone to which 
it is here joined, although the latter is 
charged with the outflow from a dozen 
glaciers, besides the rainfall of a con¬ 
siderable valiey. 

The vegetation assumes a quite 
southern aspect, and the heat in sum¬ 
mer is often oppressive, before the road 
reaches Naters, and then, crossing a 
long bridge over the Rhone, joins the 
main line of the Simplon road at Brieg 
(Inns: H. d’Angleterre ; Poste ; pass¬ 
ing travellers may dine at a restau¬ 
rant near the post). See §21, Rte. A. 


Route D. 

VIESCH TO BRIEG, BY THE iEGGISCII- 

HORN AND BELL ALP-ASCENT OF 

THE FINSTERAARHORN, JUNGFRAU, 
ALETSCHHORN. 

Of all European glaciers the greatest 
in its proportions, and that which 
best enables us to form a concep¬ 
tion of the still vaster ice-streams 
that poured through the valleys of 
the Alps during the glacial period, 
is that of Aletsch. Originating in a 
vast basin of neve, about 6 m. in 
diameter, which is enclosed by ridges 
that scarcely anywhere fall below 
the height of 12,000 ft, and include 
most of the highest summits of the 
Oberland Alps, the Aletsch Glacier 
issues from this reservoir through the 
opening between the Faulberg and the 
base of the Dreieekhorn, and flows 
down with a majestic sweep, in abroad 
arc of singularly regular slope and 
dimensions. Measured along its axis 
from its head at the Jungfrau Joch, the 
ice-stream is from 15 to IG m. in length, 


and for the greater part of its course 
1^- m. in width. When to these par 
ticulars we add the fact that it is easily 
accessible throughout the greater part 
of its surface, and that an unusual 
number of high peaks may be reached 
without extreme difficulty from its 
banks, it is obvious that there are 
here united inducements irresistible 
to the student of nature, and the 
lover of high mountain scenery. It 
is somewhat strange that in spite of 
such attractions this has been the last of 
the great glaciers of the Alps to excite 
the attention of travellers. The main 
cause was the absence of tolerable ac¬ 
commodation at a moderate distance 
from the glacier. The earlier explorers 
found no shelter save in the very poor 
chalets of the Miirjelen Alp, where it 
was possible to pass a night, but which 
did not invite to a longer stay. 

In 1856, an enterprising native of 
the Valais, named Wellig, opened an 
inn on the iEggischhorn which speed¬ 
ily became one of the favourite haunts 
of alpine travellers. More recently 
another inn, a worthy rival of the 
former, has been established on the 
Bell Alp, on the W. side of the glacier, 
and much nearer to its lower end. 
The traveller who wishes to become 
acquainted with the glacier region on 
the S. side of the Oberland Alps will 
not fail to visit both these stations, and 
if favoured by weather may well allow 
several days for his stay at each of 
them. Those descending the Valais 
from Obergestelen may forward luggage 
from Viesch to Brieg by diligence, and 
rejoin it at the latter place on their 
descent from the Bell Alp. 

The hotel on the iEggischhorn is 
easily reached from Lax, or still more 
commonly from Viesch. Hire of a 
horse, 10 fr. The path mounts in zig¬ 
zags the slope of the mountain W. of 
the village, passing for 1 hr. through 
pine forest. There is a rather shorter 
footpath, that joinsthe main track near 
the summit of the ascent. A very 
steep and slippery track marks the 
channel by which the herdsmen brieg 




ROUTE D.-THE JEGGISCHIIORN. 


85 


down cheeses and other commodi¬ 
ties from the higher pastures on 
little sledges much used for this pur¬ 
pose in the Valais. On clearing the 
pine-forest the path emerges on an 
alpine pasture, and then winds for 
more than an hour along the slope of the 
mountain, ascending gradually above 
the ravine through which the torrent 
from the Viesch Glacier descends to¬ 
wards the Rhone. The views are not 
very striking, but by diverging a little 
to the 1. from the path,, the grand 
peaks enclosing the valleys of Saas and 
Zermatt are seen in full perfection; 
the rival pyramids of the Dom and the 
Weisshorn being pre-eminent. An 
active pedestrian may arrive sooner 
than the mules, which require 2^ hrs. to 
reach the inn—Hotel de la Jungfrau— 
where at 7,150 ft. above the sea the 
traveller finds a degree of comfort 
rarely to be enjoyed in similar situa¬ 
tions. The house is fairly well built, 
and in fine weather warm by day, but 
of course some degree of cold is to be 
expected at night. M. Wellig is a 
good cook, the food is usually unex¬ 
ceptionable, the wines better than com¬ 
monly found in Swiss inns, and the 
charges are reasonable. Some English 
books and newspapers help ta pass the 
time in case of bad weather. While 
ordinary visitors have every reason to 
be satisfied with the host, those who 
undertake long and difficult excursions 
have bad grounds for complaint. M- 
W ellig has in his employment several 
men who act as guides, not usually by 
any means first-rate in their calling. 
Foi their services he fixes an unrea¬ 
sonably high rate of payment, while 
he is said to place difficulties in the way 
of those who come provided with effi¬ 
cient guides, and decline the services of 
his proteges. It is well to fix a limit to 
the supply of provisions, and to settle 
the bill before starting. As he is a 
man to whom mountaineers are much 
indebted for his enterprise in establish¬ 
ing so good an inn in so desirable a 
situation, and as he in his turn is 
no less indebted to English alpine 


travellers who have given him their 
active support, it is much to be desired 
that a clear understanding between 
them should lead to reform in these 
respects. The position of the inn is 
not in itself very interesting. The 
only distant mountains in sight are the 
summits of the range at the head of 
the Binnenthal, dividing the Valais 
from the valley of the Tosa in Pied¬ 
mont; though the great peaks round 
Zermatt may be seen from a point 
within 10 min. of the hotel. Its at¬ 
tractions lie in the fact that it has 
near at hand one of the very finest 
panoramic views in the Alps, and that 
it is the best starting-point for ex¬ 
cursions on the Aletsch Glacier, and 
for the ascent of most of the higher 
peaks of the Oberland Alps. 

The ascent of the AZggischhorn is the 
first and most indispensable excursion 
for all visitors. The clearest weather 
should when possible be selected, and 
those who remain some days will do 
well to make the ascent more than 
once, so as to compare the effect of 
early morning with that of the evening 
light. M. Wellig has done a good deal 
to facilitate the excursion, which at one 
time required some rough scrambling. 
The ascent may be made in if hr., 
being for more than half the way by a 
good path passable for mules. These 
are left at a hollow in the mountain 
covered with debris, whereon snow 
often lies even in the height of summer. 
When this has been crossed the re¬ 
mainder of the way is up the steep 
rocks that form the peak of the moun¬ 
tain. The highest point, 9,649 ft. 
above the sea, is formed of loose blocks 
of great size piled one on the other, as 
though a higher pinnacle had been 
shattered and had fallen in confusion. 
Although steps have been cut and rails 
placed at some points, the unpractised 
mountaineer should use caution, as it 
is easy to slip on the smooth surface of 
the rocks. The view unites more ob¬ 
jects of interest, and is better fitted, in 
the writer’s opinion, to give a lively 
conception of all the leading charac- 






86 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§ 24 . BERNESE OBERLAND. 


teristics of alpine scenery, than any 
other with which he is acquainted. 
The most impressive object is the 
Aletsch Glacier, descending from the 
NNW. with a nearly uniform slope 
10 m. in length, from the snow saddle 
between the Jungfrau and the Monch 
to the base of the mountain, just 
2,000 ft. below. Beneath the spec¬ 
tator’s feet the great * ice-river bends 
gradually round to the SW. till it is 
lost to sight in the gorge of the Aletsch- 
wald. The giants of the Oberland 
group when seen from this side lose 
much of their accustomed effect, and 
the traveller who from the Wengem 
Alp has lately gazed up with awe at 
the precipices of the Jungfrau and the 
Monch can scarcely recognise the same 
summits in the two flattened pyramids 
that rise scarcely 2,000 ft. on either 
side of the Jungfrau Joch. Far more 
striking is the Aletschhorn, whose 
conical peak is seen much nearer at 
hand, 6,000 ft. above the glacier which 
lies between its base and that of the 
iEggischhorn. Of the bold peak of 
the Finsteraarhorn the summit alone is 
visible above the range of the Viescher- 
horner. This is the range rising above 
the 1. bank of the Aletsch Glacier, of 
which the AEggischhorn is properly a 
continuation; but between them, and 
immediately IS", of the latter, is a deep 
hollow, cut down to a level somewhat 
lower than the surface of the glacier, 
and forming a flat trough about 2 m. 
in length, and 3 furlongs in breadth. 
It is evident that at an earlier period the 
Aletsch Glacier sent a branch through 
this depression to join the Viesch 
Glacier ; but it is an error to assert, as 
some writers have done, that a branch 
of the former glacier does at the 
present time diverge into the hollow 
space left opposite this portion of its 1. 
bank. As accurately represented on 
the Swiss Federal Map, the deviation 
is quite insensible. The reason is two¬ 
fold. The depth of the hollow is in¬ 
significant when compared with the 
prodigious thickness of the glacier; 
Professor Ramsay, who made soundings 


for the purpose, nowhere found a depth 
amounting to 100 ft. The cohesion of 
glacier-ice is too great, or its plasticity 
too limited, to cause under the circum¬ 
stances any rapid flow of the ice in the 
direction where the containing wall is 
partially removed More than this, 
the hollow is partly filled by a lake, 
called Miirjelen See, whose waters in 
summer are kept at a temperature 
slightly above the freezing point. As 
this lake washes the flank of the glacier, 
where it forms ice cliffs that rise some 
60 ft. above its own level, it eats away 
the base of the cliffs, and large masses 
fall away into the lake forming minia¬ 
ture ice-bei’gs that float upon its sur¬ 
face. To prevent the lake from rising 
so high as to flood the pastures at its 
E. end, a trench has been cut by which 
the surplus waters are carried off to¬ 
wards the Viescher tobel. On the 
other hand the opening of some sub¬ 
glacial fissure on the side of the Aletsch 
Glacier occasionally breaks open a 
passage through which the greater part 
of the lake is drained in a few hours, 
leaving the ice-bergs stranded on its 
shores. The mean height of the Mar- 
jelen See is 7,710 ft. It is an interest¬ 
ing object when seen from the summit 
of the iEggischhorn, but well deserves 
closer inspection. 

The panorama seen from the iEgg- 
ischhorn towards the E , S. and W. is 
full of interest. In the ENE. beyond 
the Furka Pass are some of the peaks of 
the Tbdi chain in the Grisons Turn¬ 
ing round to the rt. the eye follows the 
long range that separates the valley of 
the Rhone from the Val Formazza, 
culminating towards the S. in the 
Wasenhorn and the Monte Leone. To 
these follow the magnificent peaks of 
the Monte Rosa group, unsurpassed 
for beauty and variety of form; while 
in the far west is seen the Grand Corn- 
bin, and beyond it, above the ridge of 
the Gredetschhorn, the summit of Mont 
Blanc. Mountaineers bound for the 
Bell Alp or the lower part of the 
Aletsch Glacier may descend directly 
from the summit by the W. face of the 



87 


ROUTE D.—M. 

mountain; but as the slope is very 
steep, and covered with loose blocks 
that are easily set in motion, that course 
is not advisable for inexperienced 
climbers. It is also possible, after de¬ 
scending from the highest rocks, to cross 
the shoulder of the mountain over¬ 
looking the Miirjelen See, and so com¬ 
bine the view from the summit with a 
visit to that curious lake, and an ex¬ 
cursion on the Aletsch Glacier. The 
way is rather steep, and very rough to¬ 
wards the bottom. Those who prefer 
securer footing must make the detour 
by the Miirjelen Alp. 

In making the excursion from the 
iEggischhorn to the Aletsch Glacier, 
each traveller must be guided by his 
own taste and power of endurance, as 
well as by the state of the snow on the 
upper part of the glacier. A com¬ 
paratively short excursion, e. g., cross¬ 
ing the glacier to the base of the 
Dreieckhorn, will give a measure of 
the grand scale on which it is formed, 
and will bring the stranger to the ice- 
world into contact with many new and 
striking phenomena; but an active 
walker, favoured by weather, and by 
the state of the snow, can employ a 
long day in no better way than by fol¬ 
lowing the glacier up to its extreme 
limit at the snow ridge between the 
Jungfrau and the Monch. Though 
the Miirjelen See is the daily resort of 
visitors from the Jungfrau Hotel, there 
is no well-traced path. This is no 
serious inconvenience when starting 
fresh in the morning, but there are few 
mountaineers who have not had occa¬ 
sion to feel the difficulty of finding the 
way after night-fall, or, at all events, 
to desire a less troublesome operation 
than that of crossing a steep ridge on 
their return from a hard day’s walk. 
The most direct course is to cross the 
shoulder of the iEggischhorn and de¬ 
scend, in about 1 ^ hr. from the hotel, 
to the S. shore of the lake. Another 
way, rather longer, but easier, crosses 
the same shoulder farther E., where it 
is much lower, and after a slight de¬ 
scent reaches the Miirjelen Hiitten, a 


ARJELEN SEE. 

couple of chalets, where four or five 
men remain during the height of sum¬ 
mer. They not only have to tend the 
cows that are pastured near the lake, 
but also have the care of sheep that 
are turned loose on the steep slopes 
above the 1. bank of the Aletsch Gla¬ 
cier. A third way from the hotel to 
the lake is to make a circuit round the 
ridge above spoken of. The chalets 
being little more than 500 ft. above the 
hotel, this involves a slight ascent; but 
as the slope of the mountain is furrowed 
by many gullies, it is a troublesome 
course, and not often taken. For part 
of the way a watercourse may be fol¬ 
lowed along the steep E. slope of the 
mountain, commanding a fine view of 
the ice-fall of the Viesch Glacier. 

There is a rough path along the N. 
side of the Miirjelen See, much easier 
than the rugged slope on the opposite 
bank covered with loose fragments of 
rock. From either side of the lake 
there is little difficulty in gaining the 
surface of the Aletsch Glacier. As this 
is usually somewhat crevassed near the 
1. bank, it is best to steer for the middle 
of the ice-stream, where the crevasses 
are few and narrow, and where the 
traveller, being equally distant from 
the mountains on either hand, forms a 
truer estimate of the vast scale by 
which he should measure the surround¬ 
ing objects. Nearly opposite to the 
Miirjelen See, one of its principal afflu¬ 
ents, called the Aren, or Mittler Aletsch 
Glacier, joins the main stream. 

The bold summits that rise on the 
rt. bank, N. of the junction, are por¬ 
tions of a ridge diverging from the 
Aletschhorn. The nearest peak, a 
mass of nearly bare dai’k rock, is the 
Olmenhorn (10,853'), and the much 
higher partially snow-covered pinnacle 
to the NW. is the Dreieckhorn (12,540). 
On the opposite side is the range of 
the Walliser Viescherhomer, so called 
to distinguish them from the Grindel- 
walder Yiescherhorner, a group of 
peaks lying in the range between the 
Finsteraarhorn and the Monch (see 
Rte. I). The southern end of the range 





BERNESE ALPS. § 24. BERNESE OBERLAND. 


S8 

immediately N. of the Marjelen See— 
about 10,000 ft. in height—is some¬ 
times collectively called Strahlhorner, 
or Strahlgrat. Farther N. a summit 
called Klein Wannehorn (12,19s'), rises 
out of the glacier that covers the upper 
part of the ridge. This is succeeded 
by other peaks, of which the highest, 
now called Gross Wannehorn (12,812'), 
v’as ascended in 1863 by M. M. G. 
Studer and Lindt. The NW. extremity 
is formed by a fine peak, lately known 
as Schdnbiihlhorn (12,697'). At the base 
of the latter mountain, about 4^- m. in a 
straight line from the Marjelen See, is 
the taulberg Cave , frequently used as 
night-quarters by mountaineers at¬ 
tempting the ascent of the higher peaks. 
Keeping along the centre of the glacier 
the traveller, after passing the Faul- 
berg, reaches a position which is in 
many respects unique in the Alps. 
From a central point in what has been 
happily called ‘ the Place de la Con¬ 
corde of Nature/ at about 9,200 ft. 
above the sea, four snow valleys diverge 
at rt. angles— that leading N W. to the 
Jungfrau Joch, which may properly be 
called Jungfrau Firn, is naturally 
considered as the principal source of 
the Aletsch Glacier, being in the same 
line with the main channel by which 
the traveller has ascended. To the 
SW. an equally broad avenue of neve 
—the Grosser Alelsch Firn —ascends 
by a gentle slope to the Ldtschen 
Liicke (Rte. H). In the opposite direc¬ 
tion, or NE., the Griinhorn Glacier 
mounts by a rather shorter and steeper 
inclination to the Griinhorn Liicke, 
connecting the snow-basin of the 
Viesch Glacier with that of Aletsch. 

The entire absence of any apparent 
breaks in the vast snow-fields, and the 
gentle inclination of the slopes, suggest 
no thought of danger, and it is difficult 
to persuade even experienced moun¬ 
taineers that they should not be tra¬ 
versed without the rope. Yet the 
warnings already received have been 
more than sufficient to inculcate cau¬ 
tion. Many a traveller or guide has 
slipped through the treacherous crust 


of snow that covers the concealed cre¬ 
vasses, and when not attached to the 
rope has owed his life rather to fortu¬ 
nate accident than to his own deserts. 
In one of the latest cases of the kind, a 
porter, who fell to a great depth, was 
released from his icy prison only after 
long and most arduous exertions, and 
was in such a condition that he would 
almost certainly have died during the 
night, had it not been for the unceasing 
attentions and judicious treatment of 
the English travellers who tended him 
in the Faulberg cave. 

After passing the glacier cross-roads 
the traveller advances between the 
snow-covered ridges of the Kranzberg, 
an outlier from the Jungfrau on Ms left, 
and a snowy pyramid, with some sharp 
projecting ridges of rock, left unnamed 
on the Federal map, but generally 
known as the Trugberg, having received 
that name from the party who, with 
M. Agassiz, reached the summit of the 
Jungfrau in 1841, owing to the singular 
error of some of the guides who mis¬ 
took this for the summit which they 
designed to reach. Although 12,904 
ft. in height, it is overtopped by the 
adjoining range of the Viescherhorner, 
as well as by the Monch and Jungfrau, 
and therefore does not offer much in¬ 
ducement to mountaineers. The writer 
has reached the southern and lower 
summit, and believes'that the ascent to 
the northern peak presents no serious 
difficulty. S. of the Trugberg a glacier 
of considerable extent descends in a fine 
ice-fall to join the main stream of the 
.Aletsch Gl., from the basin between 
the Trugberg and the Viescherhorner. 
It may best retain the name Trugberg 
Glacier , proposed by the writer in the 
first series of ‘ Peaks, Passes, and Gla¬ 
ciers.’ Beyond this the ascent becomes 
rather more rapid, but not enough so 
to be laborious, except when fresh 
and soft snow lies over the neve. Pass¬ 
ing along the base of the Trugberg, the 
traveller finally reaches the rather steep 
snow-slope leading up to the Jungfrau 
Joch. A crevasse, or bergschrund, 
sometimes intersects the neve, but it is 






ROUTE D.—ASCENT OF THE FINSTERAARIIORN. 


89 


not found to oppose any serious ob¬ 
stacle ; and the most inexperienced 
walker, with a competent guide, and 
attention to established precautions, 
may, in from 6 to 7 hrs. (exclusive of 
halts) from the iEggischhorn Hotel, 
attain the summit of the ridge connect¬ 
ing the Monch with the Jungfrau. 
Those who first reached this point, and 
those who repeatedly scanned it from 
the Wengern Alp, were alike persuaded 
that, although the most obvious de¬ 
pression, or natural col, in the long 
range between the Finsteraarhorn and 
the Mittaghorn, it never could be made 
use of as a pass. The honour of over¬ 
coming the formidable obstacles by 
which it is defended on the N. side was 
reserved for some enterprising members 
of the Alpine Club. A notice of the 
ascent from the Wengern Alp will be 
found in Rte. I. The view is of the 
same character as that obtained from 
the summit of the Weiss Thor, or the 
Cima de Jazi (§ 20); but if the pano¬ 
rama of alpine peaks be less remark¬ 
able, the contrast between the vast 
snowy region that has been traversed 
in reaching the col, and the view of 
the low country suddenly unfolded 
from the summit, is even more striking. 
The spectator is here far nearer to the 
plain of Switzerland than he is to the 
low country of Lombardy when stand¬ 
ing on the ridge N. of Monte Rosa, 
and from this vantage-ground he looks 
directly down upon the inhabited and 
frequented slopes of the northern val¬ 
leys of the Oberland. 

In the first published account of this 
excursion from the iEggischhorn 
(‘ Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,’ first 
series), Mr. E. Bunbury has given to 
it the names Col de la Jungfrau, or 
Monch Sattel. The first appears in¬ 
admissible as the name of a pass lying 
in an exclusively German district.; the 
second is in itself quite appropriate, 
but is liable to create confusion with 
the name Monch Joch applied by 
general consent to the pass on the 
E. side of the Monch described in 
Rte. I. It therefore appears proper to 


adopt the name Jungfrau Joch, pro¬ 
posed by Mr. L. Stephen, who has 
published the first account of the 
passage from the Wengern Alp, in the 
3rd number of the ‘ Alpine Journal.’ 
The height, as determined by Mr. 
Jacomb, who with a friend made the 
second passage, is 11,095 ft. Some 
rocks jut out from the neve a short 
way on the S. side of the col, and 
afford a convenient halting-place for 
the midday meal. For the return to 
the hotel at least 5 hrs., exclusive of 
halts, must be allowed. Inasmuch as 
11 or 12 hrs.’ steady walking are re¬ 
quired for this interesting excursion, 
and that time must be extended in case 
the snow should be soft and deep during 
the ascent, the experienced mountaineer 
will understand the expediency of a 
very early start. Besides the rope, he 
will not fail to be provided with dark 
spectacles, or a gauze veil, as well as 
lip-salve or cold cream. 

Those who have not had much pre¬ 
vious acquaintance with glacier scenery 
may be recommended to make an ex¬ 
cursion from the iEggischhorn Hotel to 
the Viesch Glacier. This presents the 
same contrasts to the Aletsch Glacier 
that a rapid mountain torrent does to 
a calm river. The lower portion espe¬ 
cially descends in a very fine ice-cas¬ 
cade. (See Rte. O.) In making this 
excursion it is easy to descend to 
Viesch without returning to iEggisch¬ 
horn. On the N. side of the Yiescher- 
tobel a well-defined ancient moraine 
extends down to the village, and has 
been partly cut through in the con¬ 
struction of the new road up the valley 
of the Rhone. 

The most interesting excursion from 
the iEggischhorn for an enterprising 
mountaineer is the ascent of the Fin- 
steraarhorn (14,026'), the highest peak 
of the Oberland Alps. Doubts have 
been raised as to the ascent by Hugi’s 
guides, Leuthold and Wiihren, in 
1829. The summit was certainly 
attained from the Oberaarjoch (Rte. 
O), in 1842, by M. Sulger of Basle, 
with Johann Jaun of Meyringen and 




90 


BERNESE ALPS. § 24 . 

another guide. The next ascent was 
made in 1857 by several members of the 
University of Cambridge, and is re¬ 
counted by the Rev. J. F. Hardy, in the 
first series of ‘ Peaks, Passes, and Gla¬ 
ciers.’ The party slept at the Faulberg. 
That place has been much improved 
by M. Wellig, but it is inconve¬ 
niently far from the object in view, 
and those who adopt it are liable to the 
inconvenience of having to pass a 
second night away from comfortable 
quarters. In the numerous ascents 
made within the last few years, some 
mountaineers have used a cave at the 
E. base of the Rothhorn (see Rte. O), 
which affords as good shelter as that of 
the Faulberg. Mr. F. W. Jacomb has 
pointed out a nearer site for a bivouac 
at the extreme W. slope of the Roth¬ 
horn, within 15 min. of the glacier 
flowing down from the Finsteraarhom. 
A detached rock resting on a kind of 
keel from which its sides sloped up¬ 
wards at an angle of 45° enabled the 
party, by building a low wall of loose 
stones, to secure tolerable shelter. But 
as this position is nearly 10,000 ft. in 
height, and lies in the very centre of a 
great snow-basin, an unusual amount 
of covering should be provided both 
for guides and travellers. The charge 
fixed by M. Wellig for guides from 
the JEggischhorn is 50 fr., and by 
comparison with other similar aseents 
this is not excessive. In starting from 
the Faulberg it is necessary to take 
a wide sweep round the W. base of 
the rocks, in order to avoid crevasses, 
before commencing the ascent of the 
glacier which flows between the top¬ 
most ridge of the Faulberg on the S. 
and the rocks called Griineck (10,784'). 
In clear weather a party securely 
roped together may make this ascent 
before daylight, and in 2 or 3 hrs. 
from their sleeping-place, according 
to the state of the snow, may reach 
the summit of the Griinhorn Lilcke 
(10,843'), a well-marked pass con¬ 
necting the upper basin of the Aletsch 
Glacier with that of the Viesch Glacier, 
and forming a natural division between 


BERNESE GREELAND. 

the Walliser Viescherhorner to the S., 
and a group of high peaks connecting 
these with the Grindelwald Viescher- 
horner. The Commission for revising 
the Swiss Federal Map has called this 
the Griinhorn Group. Its highest sum¬ 
mit— Gross Griinhorn (13,278')—is a 
bold rocky peak, and beyond it to the 
N. is a similar but lower point —Klein 
Griinhorn (12,884'). Nearer at hand, 
above the Gruneck is the Griineckhorn 
(12,694'). Opposite to this range the 
Finsteraarhom rises beyond the upper 
basin of the Viesch Glacier. The 
best known aspect of the peak, as 
it presents itself from the Faulhorn 
or from Berne, is that of an obelisk 
of rock so sharp that to attempt 
the ascent might seem sheer insanity. 
When seen towards the S.W., from the 
Aar Glacier, the outline is indeed less 
precipitous, but it is impossible from 
that side to gain the ridge by which 
alone the summit is to be reached. . It 
is from the SW. side alone—that which 
lies opposite to the Griinhorn Liicke 
that the peak offers any possibility of 
access. This face shows a number 
of projecting ridges of rock divided 
from each other by snow couloirs. 
Towards the top the rocks and cou¬ 
loirs are so steep that it seems im¬ 
possible to reach the highest point 
directly from this side. The course 
taken is towards a point to the 1. of 
the highest peak, whence it is possible 
to turn to the rt., and climb along 
the arete to the summit. A gentle 
descent across the hollow basin of neve 
leads in 1 hr. from the Griinhorn 
Liicke to the base of the rocks by 
which the ascent is commenced. These 
are extremely steep, but afford pretty 
good holding for feet and hands. For 
2 hrs. the ascent is altogether by the 
rocks; above these are steep snow- 
slopes ; the course inclines at first 
somewhat to 1., then rather to the rt., 
and nearly 4 hrs. are consumed in 
reaching the ridge, from whence the 
traveller has an extraordinary view 
of the Aar Glacier, lying thousands 
of feet below him at the foot of 





ROUTE D.—ASCENT OF TIIE JUNGFRAU. 91 


the precipices whose summit he has 
attained. Henceforward, the way lies 
along the extremely sharp arete, com¬ 
posed of projecting edges of rock with 
interstices filled by ice or hard snow. 
The ascent is longer, but not quite so 
difficult as the final arete of Monte 
Rosa, with which it is often compared, 
and nearly 2 hrs. are required to reach 
the highest point in the ridge, marked 
by a stone man, which occupies nearly 
all the narrow standing-ground. The 
view is remarkable, not only for its 
vast extent, but for the fact that within 
the range of distinct vision it is almost 
exclusively confined to bare rock, gla¬ 
cier, and snow field. Most of the 
principal peaks of the Alps allow the 
eye to descend into some inhabited 
valley, but here, in order to find traces 
of cultivation, it is necessary to look 
across the mountain tops to the farther 
end of the lake of Thun, where the 
tokens of man's presence become faint 
by distance. 

It is needless to say that the descent 
requires caution and steadiness on the 
part of all concerned. On returning 
to the rocks it is difficult to recover the 
exact ledges and clefts by which the 
ascent was effected, and the ground is 
so steep that some delay may be caused 
by mistakes.* In some states of the 
snow it may be safe to make the descent 
by an ice-couloir, or miniature glacier, 
lying on the 1. of the rocks which were 
used for the ascent. 

In starting from the Fauiberg it is 
necessary to allow from 9 to 10 hrs. 
for the ascent. If the travellers design 
to return to the AEggischhorn, it is 
rather shorter to descend from the base 
of the peak by the Viesch Glacier. 
As this is much crevassed, the better 
course is to take to the slopes of 
the Yiescherhorner, opposite to the 
Rothhorn, and make a great part 

* When clambering alone in such situations, 
the writer has found it useful to carry a piece of 
chalk by which to mark the correct way in dif¬ 
ficult places. If this plan be adopted by a part v, 
the chalk should be in the hands of the guide 
who goes last in the ascent, in order that the 
marks may not be effaced. 


of the way along the rt. bank of the 
glacier. 

The Rothhorn (11.644') is a project¬ 
ing peak SE. of the Finsteraarhorn, 
which shows a bold rocky front to 
those who view it in ascending the 
Viesch Glacier. It lies between the 
two main sources of that glacier—the 
great basin W. of the Finsteraarhorn, 
and the smaller reservoir below the 
Oberaarjoch. In one of his attempts 
to climb the higher peak, Hugi, ap¬ 
proaching from the Oberaarjoch (Rte. 
O), crossed the ridge between the 
Rothhorn and Finsteraarhorn, after¬ 
wards descending to the upper neve ol 
the Viesch Glacier. Mr. L. Stephen 
recommends this route to the Grimsel. 
Though rather more distant than the 
AEggischhorn the way is much easier, 
and the suggestion may lead future 
explorers to consider whether the 
former should not be preferred as the 
starting-point for this expedition. 

More prominent than the Finster¬ 
aarhorn in the thoughts of Oberland 
tourists has ever been the Jungfrau 
(13,671')- The interest attaching to 
this mountain is mainly due to the 
fact that from the lake of Thun, 
and the greater part of the Canton 
Berne, it is the most conspicuous and 
the nearest of the Oberland peaks, while 
its extreme steepness when viewed from 
that side secured for it, as the name 
suggests, an early reputation for inac¬ 
cessibility, which is in truth but ill 
deserved. 

The first recorded ascent of the Jung¬ 
frau was accomplished in 1811 by J.R. 
and H. Meyer of Aarau with two Valais 
guides; the next in 1812 by another 
member of the same family, named 
Gottlieb Meyer, also with two men 
from the Valais. The reality of these 
ascents has been often called in ques¬ 
tion, but, in the writer’s opinion, on 
insufficient grounds. The Rev. C. H. 
Pilkington, who made the ascent in 
1862 by a course different from that 
usually taken, has from his own ex¬ 
perience gone far towards explainin 
the supposed incompatibility of Meyer 









92 


BERNESE ALPS. § 24. BERNESE OBERLAND. 


narrative with the results of subsequent 
explorations. The third ascent dates 
from 1828, when several men from 
Grindelwald, headed by Peter Baumann, 
planted their flag upon the summit. 
Next came the ascent by MM. Agassiz, 
Forbes, Heath, Desor, and Duchatelier 
in 1841, recounted by M. Desor in his 
‘Excursions et Sejours dans les Gla¬ 
ciers,’ and by Prof. Forbes in the ap¬ 
pendix to his work on Norway. M. 
G. Studer has published an account 
of the next ascent made by himself and 
M. Biirki in 1842. Of late years the 
summit has been frequently attained, 
and as the ascent is shorter, though 
sometimes more difficult than that of 
the Finsteraarhorn it would become 
comparatively common if it were not 
for the excessive charge of 80 fr., now 
reduced to 70 fr., for each guide, and 
40 fr. for porters, fixed by Wellig at the 
iEggischhorn. Local knowledge is so 
little required by those who make the 
ascent in fine weather—and none other 
is fit for such an expedition—that a 
party of mountaineers with first-rate 
guides may count with confidence on 
making the ascent without taking an 
yfiggischhorn guide. It is, however, ne¬ 
cessary to carry provisions and cover¬ 
ing for the night to the Faulberg cave, 
and in most seasons a ladder is required 
to pass the Bergschrund at the base of 
the ascent, so that one or two porters 
are usually indispensable. As in all ex¬ 
peditions lying mainly over snow and 
ice, the time required depends mainly 
on the state of the surface. In 1862 a 
party of good mountaineers employed 
174 hrs. in the ascent from the Faulberg 
and the return to that station, while in 
the succeeding year a party, consisting 
of Prof. Tyndall, Rev. J. J. Hornby, 
and Mr. T. H. Philpott, accomplished 
the same distance in the extraordina¬ 
rily short space of 10^ hrs. 

The principal buttress projecting on 
the SE. side of the Jungfrau towards 
the Aletsch Glacier, but presenting no 
well-defined summit, has been called 
the Kranzberg. After mounting the 
gentle slope of the glacier for about 2 


hrs. from the Faulberg, the ascent is 
usually commenced by a spur of the 
Kranzberg. When this has been sur¬ 
mounted, the traveller gains a view of 
the Roththalsattel, a depression in the 
ridge running S. from the highest peak 
of the mountain. The condition of the 
slope leading up to this point appears 
to vary in a remarkable manner accord¬ 
ing to the season and the amount of 
snow that has fallen in the preced¬ 
ing winter. While some experienced 
mountaineers have found it decidedly 
difficult, others have encountered no 
obstacle worth notice. Sometimes one 
considerable bergschrund traverses 
the steep snow-slope a few hundred 
feet below the Sattel, sometimes a 
second opens lower down; but in 
some exceptional seasons both are 
completely bridged over, and occasion 
no trouble to the attacking party. As 
a general rule, a ladder of some 25 ft. 
is indispensable. In the ascent by Mr. 
Pilkington, already referred to, the 
party being unprovided with a ladder, 
and having reason to apprehend serious 
difficulties in the ascent from the Roth¬ 
thalsattel, bore to the rt., and climbing 
by extremely steep rocks, and by slopes 
of hard ice in which the work of step¬ 
cutting was very laborious, reached the 
highest peak from its E. side, instead 
of from the S. as in all the other recent 
ascents. This course is, however, ex¬ 
tremely laborious, costing 5£ hours of 
hard work from the point where they 
left the ordinary route, supposed to be 
1,400 ft. below the summit. The usual 
course is to reach the Roththalsattel 
(12,946') in about 5 hrs. from the Faul¬ 
berg. The effect of suddenly arriving 
on this extremely sharp crest of snow” 
beyond which the eye plunges abruptly 
down a precipice 3,000 ft. in height into 
the depths of the Roththal (Rte. H), is 
strikingly impressive, and it is scarcely 
possible to believe that the ascent can be 
made from that side (See Rte. H). The 
remainder of the ascent is accomplished 
along one of the longest and sharpest 
aretes of frozen snow to be found in 
i the Alps. With perfect steadiness and 




ROUTE D.—THE SPARRENIIORN. 


93 


first-rate guides there is no danger, 
unless too early in the season, or soon 
after a heavy fall of fresh snow. When 
it is necessary to cut steps all the way 
in hard frozen neve, the work is very 
laborious, and 3 hrs. may be consumed 
in mounting the 725 ft. that separate 
the Sattel from the summit. Some 
rocks jut out close to the top, but the 
actual peak consists of a nearly level 
ridge of frozen snow falling away on 
either side like a house-top with an 
excessively steep roof. The view is 
wonderful, on the one side command¬ 
ing the icy wastes of the Aletseb Gla¬ 
cier, and the highest alpine peaks far 
and near; on the other overlooking 
populous valleys that lie at a depth of 
2 miles below the spectator’s feet. 

In going from the iEggischhorn 
Hotel to that on the Bell Alp, travellers 
have a choice between several interest¬ 
ing ways. The best for pedestrians is 
by the Miirjelen See, descending the 
Aietsc’h Glacier to a point below the 
junction of the Ober Aletsch Glacier, a 
comparatively narrow and rapid ice- 
streain flowing from the S. side of the 
Aletschhorn. In 1^ hr. from the Miir- 
jelen See the traveller reaches the point 
where he leaves the glacier on its rt. 
bank, and ascends in about 1 hr. by a 
rather steep, but well-made path, to the 
new hotel. 

It is possible to descend direct from 
the summit of the JEggischhorn so as 
to reach the glacier about ^ m. below 
the Miirjelen See, and thus enjoy the 
view from the top on the way from the 
one hotel to the other. 

A third way lies along the S. side of 
the ridge of the JEggischhorn. It is 
convenient for ladies, because horses 
can go to, and sometimes across, the 
glacier, and the views of the Valais 
Alps are in clear weather magnificent. 
A frequented track over alpine pas¬ 
tures at a height of rather more than 
7.000 ft., passes by a nice and com¬ 
fortable little inn on the Rieder Alp. 
Near this a track from the good inn at 
Lax, after mounting through forest, 
joins the path. A short ascent leads 


thence to a depression in the ridge en¬ 
closing the Aletsch Glacier on the SE. 
side. A rough descent to the edge of 
the glacier lies over the steep slope of 
the Aletsch Wald, probably once co¬ 
vered with pine forest, but where, at 
least in its upper part, only a few 
straggling trees now hold their ground. 

On the opposite side of the glacier 
the path above mentioned is found 
to lead in 5 hrs. from the iEggisch- 
horn to the hotel on the Bell Alp , 
opened in 1860, and lately much en¬ 
larged and improved by the addition of 
a solid stone building. It is now a. 
frequented haunt of mountaineers, and 
deserves their favour by good accom¬ 
modation and reasonable charges, ma¬ 
king it a worthy rival to Wellig’s inn. 
This stands about 7,130 ft. above the 
sea, on a ridge overlooking the lower 
stream of the Aletsch Glacier, and its 
junction with the Ober Aletsch Glacier, 
whose fine ice-fall is in full view. The 
windows command a noble view of the 
snowy peaks from the Monte Leone to 
the Weisshorn. In this respect it has 
the advantage of the Hotel de la Jung¬ 
frau, but it is not so conveniently 
placed for the excursions above de¬ 
scribed, nor for the passes noticed in 
Rtes. H, I, and O. Several days may, 
however, be spent here with advantage, 
and at least one first-rate peak may be 
attained in a single day. 

The finest point of view of easy 
access is the Spurrenhorn (9,889'). The 
top is easily reached in 2 hrs. from the 
hotel. The view of the Monte Rosa 
group is perhaps superior to that from 
the iEggischhorn, but only a compara¬ 
tively small portion of the great Aletsch 
Glacier is here in sight. On the other 
hand the comparatively trifling Ober 
Aletsch Glacier , which descends close 
under the precipitous E. face of the 
Sparrenhorn, is a very striking object. 
The last-named glacier is the outflow 
of the Beich Firn, wrongly named on 
the Federal Map Jagi Glacier, a vast 
basin of neve extending from the 
Aletschhorn to the Gross Nesthorn. 
It is divided into two main branches 





94 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§. 24 . BERNESE OBEELAND. 


-—one extending northward between ] 
the Aletschhorn and the Schienhorn 
(12,638'), the other westward, between 
the latter and the Gross Nestliorn 
(12,533'). From the junction of these 
branches the Ober Aletsch Glacier 
flows to SE., at first with a gentle 
slope, between the Sparrenhorn and the 
Fusshorner, until on approaching the 
main glacier it plunges down the slope 
in a grand ice-fall. To reach the 
junction of the Beich Firn with the 
Ober Aletsch Gl. is an easy and de¬ 
lightful excursion of 24 hrs., and is 
within the powers of many ladies. 
There is perhaps no other spot equally 
easy of access where the traveller in 
the ice-region of the Alps is so com¬ 
pletely cut off from the outer world. 

The Gross Neslhorn was first ascen¬ 
ded from the Bell Alp in 18^5 by 
Messrs. H. B. George and Mortimer, 
with Christian Aimer and his son. Pass¬ 
ing the base of the peak nearly to the 
head of the W. branch of the Beich 
Firn, they had on their 1. a steep ice- 
slope, broken in five places by protru¬ 
ding masses of rock. Ascending the 
steep channel between the two masses 
nearest the Nesthorn they reached the 
ridge overlooking the Gredetschthal, 
turned to the L, and crossing a minor 
peak, and attained the summit in 64 
lirs., exclusive of halts. The view is 
of the very first order, perhaps sur¬ 
passing that from the Aletschhorn. 

An extremely interesting excursion 
from the Bell Alp is that to the savage 
gorge of the Massa, where the Aletsch 
Glacier rather abruptly terminates in 
a narrow ravine between extremely 
steep rocks. These are not passable 
on either side of the glacier, but it is 
possible to descend along the moraine 
on the 1. bank between the ice and the 
base of the cliffs. A short way below 
the end of the glacier is a wooden 
bridge over the stream of the Massa, 
and a path mounts thence to a group 
of chalets above the village of Blatten 
traversed by the bridle-track leading 
from Brieg to the hotel. 

The ascent of the Aletschhorn was 


first effected in June 1860 by Mr. F. F. 
Tuckett, with Victor Tairraz, J. J. 
Bennen, and P. Bohren, as guides. 
The party passed the night in some 
holes in the rocks above the Aren or 
Mittler Aletsch Glacier, and on the 
following morning reached the snow 
arete connecting the Dreieckhorn with 
the main peak. The passage along 
this arete at so early a period in the 
year, before the snow has become well 
consolidated, involved some risk. The 
final peak is on this side a slope of 
neve lying at an angle of 50°, requiring 
care and good step-cutting, but in¬ 
volving no serious difficulty. 

The Aletschhorn (13,803'), the second 
in height of the Oberland Alps, is the 
only one of the higher peaks which 
lies altogether in the Valais, being 
the culminating point of a range run¬ 
ning parallel with the dividing ridge, 
and surpassing it in the height of its 
principal peaks. Standing thus be¬ 
tween the principal range of the Ber¬ 
nese Alps and the Pennine chain, it 
shares with the Bietschhorn the advan¬ 
tage of occupying the most central 
position held by any of the higher 
peaks of the Alps. Surpassing its rival 
by more than 800 ft., it is often thought 
to command the finest of all the pano¬ 
ramic views from Alpine summits. To 
the SW. the view extends to the Pelvoux 
group in Dauphine, distant 135 m. To 
the E. the panorama extends, according 
to Mr. Tuckett, to the Grisons and 
Tyrol Alps, but he has not specified 
the most distant point within the range 
of vision on that side. To the NW. 
the eye ranges across the snowy sum¬ 
mits at the head of the valley of Lau- 
terbrunnen to the plain of Switzerland 
and the distant Jura. On the S. side 
alone the view is bounded by the Pen¬ 
nine chain, which bars the prospect 
towards Italy. The ascent from the 
Bell Alp by the N. branch of the Beich 
Firn is shorter and easier than the way 
above indicated. Active climbers have 
reached the top in little more than 
6 hrs. actual walking. It is well to start 
at 1 a.m„ 



ROUTE E.—SAXETENTHAL. 


For the Birchfluh Pass, see Rte. G. 

The descent from the Bell Alp Inn 
to Brieg by the bridle-path takes 3 hrs. 
£ hr. is saved by going straight down 
the slopes to near JBIatten, whence the 
track leads to Naters, close to Brieg; 
•H to 4 hrs. are required for the ascent. 
The charge for a horse from Brieg is 
10 fr., with 2 fr. to the boy who leads 
it—for a porter 5 fr. 

Route E. 

INTERLAKEN TO KANDERSTEG. 

In the preceding Rtes. the chief 
paths by which ordinary travellers ap¬ 
proach the higher peaks of the Qber- 
land Alps on the NE. and S. sides 
have been described. To complete the 
circuit on the W. side, most tourists 
choose the Gemmi Pass (§ 23, Rte. A), 
which is interesting in itself, and at 
the same time free from difficulty. In 
the present and the following Rte. some 
of the paths by which a pedestrian may 
approach the Gemmi from Interlaken 
or Lauterbrunnen are noticed, while in 
the succeeding seven Rtes. the various 
passes that traverse the great glaciers, 
and divide the main peaks, are more or 
less fully described. 

A traveller going from Interlaken 
to the Gemmi has the choice of several 
routes. 

1. By Carriage road. 7f Stunden, 
or 23 j Eng. miles. 

About 6 m. from Interlaken, near 
the Baths of Leissivgen, a road turns to 
the 1. from the main road leading to 
Thun, and mounts the slopes above the 
lake for a distance of nearly 4 m. to 

JEschi (Inn: Bar), a village more 
than 1,000 ft. above the L. of Thun, 
commanding a noble view. The church 
is said to be of the 10th century. A 
slight descent leads in H m. to the 
road from Thun to Kandersteg, which 
is reached near the village of Miih- 
lenen. For the road from thence to 
Frutigen and Kandersteg, see § 23, 
Rte. A. 

2. By the Saxetenthal. 7 hrs. on 1 


95 

foot or mule-back to Muhlenen ; 12 m. 
by road thence to Kandersteg. 

The Saxetenthal is a very picturesque 
glen, which separates the outer range 
of mountains rising above the L. of 
Thun, whose chief summits are the 
Morgenberg and Abendberg, from the 
higher range culminating in the 
Sulegg (7,910'), Schwalmeren (8,981'), 
and Dreispitz (8,305'). The torrent 
issuing from the Saxetenthal intersects 
the road from Interlaken to Lauter¬ 
brunnen a short way beyond the base 
of the Klein Rugen. A path mounts 
along the rt. bank, and in 2 hrs. reaches 
the village of Saxeten. It stands 
in a picturesque situation, much ex¬ 
posed to damage from avalanches. This 
is the best starting-point for the ascent 
ofthe Sulegg (7,910'), sometimes visited 
from Interlaken for the sake of its 
grand view of the Jungfrau. Though 
of moderate height, it is rather difficult 
of access, save for practised moun¬ 
taineers; a guide should be taken from 
the village. The ascent is by the 
Bellenhochst Alp. It is necessary to 
make a wide circuit in order to reach 
the eastern ridge of the mountain. The 
upper part is an arete of rock so ex¬ 
tremely narrow that a man may sit 
astride upon the ridge. Those who are 
bound for Lauterbrunnen may descend 
from the base of the Sulegg to the 
village of Isenfluh (Rte. B). 

The way from Saxeten to the Kan- 
derthal mounts in the midst of pictur¬ 
esque scenery to the Renggli Pass 
(5,774'), reached in 4 hrs. from Inter¬ 
laken. This divides the Saxetenthal 
from the Suldthal, which joins the 
Kander near Muhlenen. The descent 
is an agreeable walk of 3 hrs. through 
pleasing scenery. A pedestrian, who 
has made the Renggli the object of a 
day’s walk from Interlaken, may turn 
to the N. from the summit of the pass, 
and reach Leissigen on the L. of Thun 
by the ridge of the Morgenberg. 

3. By the Sausgrat. 9 : jr hrs.’ walking 
to Reichenbach; 11 m. by road to 
Kandersteg. 

This rough and steep way is very 





96 


BERNESE ALPS. § 24. BERNESE OBERLAND. 


little used, and further information is 
desired. It may be taken as -well or 
better from Lauterbrunnen, -w hence the 
distance is less by f hr. than from 
Interlaken. Less than 1 m. beyond 
Zweiliitschinen (Rte. B) the path to 
Isenjiuh mounts through the -woods on 
the 1. bank of the Sausbach. Nearly 
H hr. higher up are the chalets of 
Matten. Up to this point it is possible 
to ride, but mules cannot -well be taken 
farther. The head of the Sausthal is 
a -wild hollow, enclosed between the 
Schwarz Grat (9,167'), Schilthorn 
(9,728'), and Kilchfluh (9,285') on the 
S., and the Schwalmeren (8,981') on 
the N. side. The Sausgrut Pass, lying 
between the two last-named peaks, is 
called by M. Joanne Col de la Kilch- 
fiuh, and he has attributed to it the 
height of but 5,124 ft. The writer is 
not certain that the figures, 2,453, in 
the Federal map—corresponding to 
8,048 Eng. ft.-—refer to the lowest 
point in the ridge ; but the pass, Avhich 
is visible from the Faulhorn, cannot 
fall much below that height. The 
descent towards the Kanderthal lies 
through a branch of the Kien Thai 
(§ 23, Rte. B), called Spiggengrund. 
After reaching the chalets of Hohkien 
(6,747'), a beaten track leads down that 
glen. After a circuit on the rt. bank 
the path crosses the stream, but re¬ 
turns to the N. side before approaching 
Kienthal, the chief village of the valley 
bearing the same name, standing at the 
junction of the main branch, described 
in § 23, Rte B. with the Spiggengrund. 
Not less than 6 lirs., exclusive of halts, 
should be allowed for the pass from 
Isenfluh to Kienthal. 


Route F. 

LAUTERBRUNNEN To KANDERSTEG. 

The upper part of the valley of 
Lauterbrunnen displays alpine scenes 
of the highest order, and is deservedly 
visited even by those who do not at¬ 


tempt the somewhat difficult glaciet 
passes leading either to Kandersteg or 
to the Lbtschenthal; but the excursion 
may be conveniently combined with the 
pass to Kandersteg by the Tschingel 
Glacier. A somewhat fatiguing way, 
but free from all risk or difficulty, 
is bv the Sefinen Furke and the 
Diindengrat, most conveniently made 
from Miirren (Rte. B). Though it is 
possible to reach Kandersteg in one day 
from Lauterbrunnen bv either route, 
it is a better plan to sleep at Miirren, 
if the course selected be by the Sefinen 
Furke, or at the Steinberg Alp, if the 
way by the Tschingel Glacier be pre¬ 
ferred, thus leaving time to enjoy fully 
the beautiful scenery. 

1. By the Sefinen Furke. 13 hrs.’ 
walking from Lauterbrunnen by Miir- 
ren, or by Stechelberg. 

In taking this pass from Miirren 
there is the great advantage of dimin¬ 
ishing the ascent by at least 2,700 ft., 
no slight advantage when it is recol¬ 
lected that to reach Kandersteg it is 
necessary to traverse a second pass-— 
the Diindengrat —not less steep and 
laborious than the first. A good guide 
is indispensable, as in so long an expe¬ 
dition mere loss of time in seeking the 
way would expose the traveller to the 
inconvenience of being benighted. 

On leaving Miirren a track is fol¬ 
lowed SYV. to the Giimelen Alp imme¬ 
diately overlooking the Schiltthal, and 
a little above the junction of that wild 
glen with the Sefinenthal. After cross¬ 
ing the Schilt-Bach, and a steep ascent 
round the base of a buttress of the 
Schilthorn, the path bears nearly due 
W. to the Oberberg Alp, where a group 
of chalets overlooks the deep and savage 
ravine of the Sefinenthal, beyond which 
the rocks of the Gspaltenhorn (11,260') 
rise very grandly. Mounting gently 
to the W. trom the Oberberg Alp, the 
traveller reaches the very extensive 
pastures of the Bogunggen Alp (6,663'), 
where cheeses of superior quality are 
made in several chalets. To the S. 
is a remarkable rock called Hornli 
(5,032'). The ascent now becomes 




ROUTE F.—TSCHINGEL PASS. 


1)7 


much more rapid, though not difficult. 
A faintly-traced path mounts along a 
stream flowing from SW., and a small 
lake is passed on the 1. hand. Towards 
the summit it is usually possible to 
choose between slopes of debris and a 
large patch of neve—the first being 
preferable for the ascent, the second 
for the descent. In about 3£ hrs. from 
Miirren the traveller reaches the crest 
of the Sefinen Furke (8,566'), also 
known in the valley of Lauterbrunnen 
as Klein Furke, a well-marked depres¬ 
sion in the ridge connecting the Hunds- 
hox*n (9,607') with the Biittlassen 
(10,463'). The former summit is con¬ 
nected -with the Schilthorn, the latter is 
a northern buttress of the Gspaltenhorn; 
and between the two last-named sum¬ 
mits the great range of the Oberland 
peaks, culminating in the Jungfrau, 
forms a grand picture. In the opposite 
direction the Blumlis Alp, much nearer 
at hand, shows its many-peaked ridge. 

The traveller who would reach the 
Sefinen Furke direct from Lauterbrun¬ 
nen will do well to engage a char as 
far as Stechelberg, 1^ hr., and to start 
considerably before daylight, so as to 
accomplish a good portion of the ascent 
before the sun has acquired power. 
The ascent by the N. side of the Sefi- 
nenthal is long, steep, and fatiguing, 
but the scenery is very striking. The 
valley forms, for nearly its entire 
length, one of the steepest and most 
impassable defiles in the Alps. More 
than 4 hrs., exclusive of halts, are re¬ 
quired to reach the summit of the pass 
from Stechelberg. 

The descent from the Furke towards 
the Kienthal is steep enough to require 
gome caution. It lies at first over 
shattered slate rocks, then by a slip¬ 
pery slope of shale, troublesome to 
mount, and demanding care in the de¬ 
scent. Snow sometimes lies on the 
declivity before the highest pastures 
are reached. Thenceforward the way 
is easy to the Diirrenberg Alp, where 
in case of need shelter may be had for 
the night. This is reached in little 
more than.l hr. from the pass, but those 

PART II. 


travelling in the opposite direction 
must allow 2 hrs. for the ascent. From 
the Alp the guides often descend along 
the torrent which joins the main branch 
of the Kien Thai, below the chalets of 
the Bund Alp. Though the path is 
easier, this involves a considerable de¬ 
tour, and adds at least 1 hr. to the day’s 
walk. There is no great difficulty 
(with the help of a local guide) in 
shortening the way by traversing the 
ridge which divides the two branches 
of the valley. Bearing somewhat S. of 
W. frojn the Diirrenberg Alp until he 
finds himself above the gorge through 
which the torrent flows from the Gam- 
chi Glacier, the traveller should then 
turn SE. above the precipitous slopes 
until, in less than 1 hr. from the chalet, 
he reaches a point where it is easy to 
descend to the torrent, a short distance 
below its exit from the glacier. A steep 
ascent of about two hrs., or rather more 
than 7 hrs. from Miirren, then suffices 
to reach the Diindengrat (§ 23, Rte. B), 
whence Kandersteg may be reached in 
little more than 3 hrs. 

Fora practised mountaineer it is still 
better to bear to the 1. from the Furke, 
winding along the slopes of the Biittlas- 
sen nearly at a level, until a very rapid 
descent leads to the Gamchi Glacier. 
He should then cross this glacier much 
above its foot, and afterwards steer 
for the Diindengrat. It is possible to 
ascend the glacier to the Gamchiliicke , 
and so join the next rte. over the 
Tschingel Glacier. 

2. By the Tschingel Pass. 12| hrs , 
exclusive of halts. 

This route presents a series of grand 
and striking pictures such as are rarely 
united in a single excursion. Although 
practicable in one day, it is better to 
sleep on the way at Trachsellauenen, 
or at the Steinberg Alp. The latter may 
be reached in 3 hrs., but an entire day 
may be well spent in exploring the 
upper part of the valley of Lauter¬ 
brunnen. From the village of Lauter 
brunnen a good char-road is carried 
for about 3 m. up the valley. Besides 
I the Staubbach, many other streams are 




98 


BERNESE ALPS. § 2 . 

seen to spring over the nearly vertical 
walls of limestone that rise on either 
hand. Crossing the Lutschine about 
in. from the village, the road traverses 
the torrent from the Triimmletenthal, 
which bears down the drainage from 
the glaciers lying on the N. face of the 
Jungfrau. A steep and giddy path 
leads to the Wengern Alp along the 
N. side of the ravine. The ascent 
through the main valley is very gentle 
as far as Stechelberg, where the char- 
road comes to an end. To the rt. is 
the opening of the Sefinenthal and the 
path leading to the Sefinen Furke. 
The traveller follows the bridle track 
on the rt. bank of the Liitschine as far 
as the hamlet of Sichellavinen (3,265'i, 
where he returns to the W. side of the 
torrent High up on the opposite bank 
are seen the pastures of the Stufenstein 
Alp, and the opening of the wild 
glacier basin of the Roththal, lying 
close under the S. face of the Jung¬ 
frau (Rte. H). 

The last hamlet in the valley isj 
Trachsellavenen ^4.144'), 2^- hrs. from j 
Lauterbrunnen, with a rough but clean! 
alpine inn. Here the deep trenches ex¬ 
cavated bv the glacier torrents, whose 
union forms the Weisse Lutschine, 
divide the valley into many differ¬ 
ent branches. The stream from the 
Tschingel Glacier flows from the SW, ; 
to the 1. another torrent descends 
from the small lake called Oberhorn 
See, fed by the Breithorn Glacier, \ 
formed by the union of many smaller 
ice streams on the northern escarpment 
of the range between the Tschingelhcm 
and the Gras-horn. In the lower part 
of its course the last-named glacier 
joins the Schmadri Glacier, issuing 
from a hollow between the Grosshorn 
and the Mittagborn. Farther to thi 
1. or E. of S., a smaller ice stream, the 
Breitlauenen Glacier, descends between 
the Mittaghorn and the Ebnefluh. 

The way to the Steinberg Alp lies 
up the steep declivity abovethel. bank 
of the stream from the Tschingel 
Glacier ; but those who are not pressed 
for time will do well to visit the fine 


L BERNESE OBERLAND. 

falls of the Schmadribach , thus length¬ 
ening the way by about 2 hrs. The 
path leading to the falls turns aside at 
the Ammerten Alp, crosses in succes¬ 
sion tw r o considerable torrents, and 
mounts at first SE., and then S , till it 
reaches a small hut just opposite to the 
principal fall. Almost immediately 
after escaping from the Schmadri Gla¬ 
cier the torrent springs over a ledge of 
rock fully 200 ft in height, and lower 
down in the ravine which it has chan¬ 
nelled on the slope of the mountain, 
forms two more fine falls before it joins 
the torrent from the Oberhorn See. 
The cascade is in itself very fine, 
and the effect is heightened by the 
grandeur of the surrounding scenery, 
and the noble background.of ice-bound 
precipices that rise above it. The 
excursion is often made from Lauter- 
brunnen, 4 hrs. sufficing to reach the 
fall, and 3 hrs. for the return. To 
enjoy the view r of the cascade in full 
perfection, it is well to clamber up a 
steep slope, where some scattered pines 
still cling to the rocks above the hut to 
which visitors are generally conducted. 
In going from the Schmadribach to 
the Steinberg Alp, it is possible to 
make a detour by the Oberhorn See 
(6,811'), lying on a high plateau on the 
W. side of the Breithorn Glacier, im¬ 
mediately opposite the Tschingeltritt. 
There is a very small herdsman’s hut 
or chalet near the little lake, which is 
inhabited in the height of summer, and 
where very rough quarters may be had 
for the night; but there is better accom¬ 
modation lower down on the opposite 
side of the Tschingel Glacier at the 

Steinberg Alp ( 5,794'), which may 
be reached in little more than 1 hr. 
from Trachsellauenen, or 3£ hrs from 
Lauterbrunnen, by those who do not 
make the detour to the Schmadribach. 
The site is well worth a visit even for 
those who do not attempt the passage 
of the Tschingel Glacier. It may be 
combined with the excursion to the 
Schmadribach by those who return on 
the same day to Lauterbrunnen. 

The reader will find in M. G. 





ROUTE F.—STEINBERG ALP. 


99 


Studer’s Topngi aphische Miltheilungen 
aus dem Alpengebirge a full discussion 
as to the names of the peaks seen from 
hence, and here briefly enumerated. 
Commencing on the N. side with the 
rt. bank of the Liitschine, Ave have first 
the craggy peak of the Schwarz Mbnch 
(8,675'), succeeded by she snowy sum¬ 
mit of the Silberhorn (12,106'). The 
Jungfrau (13,671') here shows an un¬ 
accustomed aspect; the crags of its A\ 
iace, and those rising on the N. side of 
the Roththal, being so steep that the snow 
can scarcely cling to them. The high¬ 
est summit of the Gletscherhorn (13,064') 
—first ascended in 1867 by Mr. Hornby 
and Christian Lauenerfrom the S. side— 
lies due S. of the Jungfrau, and is almost 
concealed by the Ebvefinh (13,005'). 
This forms a portion of the same ridge, 
and is separated by a slight depression 
from the Mittaghorn (12,761') below 
which is seen the precipitous ridge of 
the Schmadrirucke. dividing the Breit- 
lauenen from the Schmadri Glacier. 
Behind the latter rises the Grosshorn 
(12,346'), followed by the bolder and 
better defined peak of the Breithorn 
( 12,382 ). West from the latter is ttie 
Wetterliicke, a well-marked col, ove' 
which lies a long disused, but lately 
refound pass to the Lotschenthal. 
See Rte. H. Mr. G. Studer has found 
a record of the passage being ef¬ 
fected in 1783 by four miners from 
Trachsellauenen. He attributes its 
abandonment to the great extension 
of the Breithorn Glacier. [The Brei¬ 
thorn was ascended from the Wetter- 
liicke in 1865 by Mr. E. von Fel- 
lenberg, with four guides, mounting 
the W. arete. They were followed, 
5 min. later, by Messrs. Hornby and 
Philpott. who had made the detour from 
the Steinberg by the Petersgrat and S. 
side of the Tschingelhorn.] 

E. of the Wetterliicke is the Tschin- 
gelhorn (11,746'), the last promi¬ 
nent peak in this portion of the 
main range. Below this, and a little 
to the rt. as seen from the Stein¬ 
berg Alp, an isolated rocky sum¬ 
mit called the Wetterhurn (10,312') 


partly, but not completely, divides 
the ice-streams of the Tschingel and 
Breithorn Glaciers. At the NE. base 
of the Wetterhorn the two glaciers 
meet, and it is apparent that a part of 
the outflow of the Breithorn Gl. is 
diverted to the S. so as to join the 
lower end of the Tschingel Gl. Im¬ 
mediately NW. of the Steinberg Alp 
rises the very steep ridge extending 
front the Gspaltenhorn (11,260') to the 
Spitz/torn (7,224'). This extremely 
sharp pinnacle, which forms the NE. 
extremity of the range of the Bliimlis 
Alp, was attained by Mr. G. Studer 
with considerable difficulty, and not 
without the assistance of his guides. 

To understand the character of the 
expedition from the Steinberg Alp to 
the Gasterenthal, a few explanatory 
topographical remarks may be service¬ 
able. It was observed in § 23 that 
the range of the Bliimlis Alp, extend¬ 
ing from the Doldenhorn to the 
Spitzhorn, constitutes a secondary ridge 
parallel to that forming the Avater- 
shed betAveen the Cantons Berne and 
Valais. The two ranges are so close 
together that the air-line drawn between 
the opposite summits rarely exceeds 
2^ in Towards the centre of the 
trough that lies betAveen them is a 
plateau exceeding 9,000 ft. in height, 
broken through at the centre by a pro¬ 
jecting rock called Muttliorn (9,957’). 
The ridge commonly called Peters- 
grat, limiting the plateau on the S. side 
and extending 5 m. from the Tschin- 
gelhorn to the Sackhorn, rises by gentle 
slopes of neA r e to the height of about 
1,500 ft above the plateau. There is 
probably no other example in the Alps 
of a high mountain ridge without a 
sensible break or inequality. What¬ 
ever asperities may exist in the rocky 
skeleton are filled up by neve, and 
the surface seen along the ridge main¬ 
tains a dead-level which nowhere sinks 
or rises more than a few feet. From 
the great snoAv reservoir lying in the 
centre of the trough, considerable 
glaciers descend on either side. It is 
unfortunate that the authors of the 








100 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§ 24 . BERNESE OBERLAND. 


Federal Map should have applied to 
the whole glacier region including the 
ice-streams descending in opposite di¬ 
rections the two-fold name ‘ Tschingel 
oder Kander Gletscher.’ The conveni¬ 
ence of restricting the first name to the 
glacier descending into the valley of 
Lauterbrunnen, and the second to that 
which feeds the principal source of the 
Kander in the Gasterenthal, is so 
obvious, that we shall not hesitate so 
to apply the names in this work. 

The Tscliinyel Glacier , fed by the 
neve of the central plateau, and in 
part from the slopes of the Petersgrat, 
descends on either side of the Mutthorn 
between the Gspaltenhoni and the 
Wetterhorn, maintaining for some dis¬ 
tance a NE. direction and a moderate 
slope until it encounters a projecting 
buttress of rock, precipitous on its E. 
face-the well-known Tschingeltritt. 
Forced aside from its direct path, the 
glacier turns due E and flows down 
through a narrow and steep channel on 
the N side of the Wetterhorn in an 
impassable ice-cascade At the base 
of the fall it encounters a lesser ice- 
stream descending from the E. side of 
the Wetterhorn, and is bent abruptly at 
a right angle into the nearly level chan¬ 
nel through which the lower end of 
the glacier extends northward into the 
head of the valley of Lauterbrunnen 
about f m- This lower extremity of 
the glacier is easy of access from the 
Steinberg Alp, but to attain the upper 
and gentler slope above the ice-fall is 
a matter of some apparent difficulty. 
The rocks of the Tschingeltritt are 
formidably steep, and the only point 
where it seems practicable to attack 
them is at the end nearest the base of 
the ice-fall. Close at hand is a spot 
where fragments of ice from above are 
detached during the wanner hours of the 
day. and the shattered fragments roll 
some distance over the surface of the 
glacier. It does not appear that these 
often reach the place which must be 
crossed in order to reach the base of 
the Tschingeltritt, but those who pass 
during the daytime will do well to get 


away as soon as possible from the 
neighbourhood of these unpleasant 
visitors The lower part of the T-cirin- 
yeltritt , reached in one hr. from the 
Steinberg Alp, consists of a rather 
slippery slope of shattered slate, above 
which rises a much steeper wall of 
rock, the lower part of which is almost 
precipitous It consists, however, of 
solid flags giving good and secure hold 
tor feet and hands. The steepest por¬ 
tion is usually mounted with the help 
of a pine trunk, set wfith roug i cross¬ 
bar sticks for the feet; but even when 
this is absent, as happens when it has 
been carried away by the spring ava¬ 
lanches, a practised cragsman will find 
no particular difficulty in the ascent. 
The less experienced will receive an 
almost superfluous amount of assistance 
from the guides, who exaggerate the 
difficulty of this part of the route, while 
they constantly neglect the really im¬ 
portant precaution of attaching the 
party together with the rope on the 
upper part of the glacier. For some 
distance the rocks continue to be very 
steep, and those who descend this way 
towards Lauterbrunnen require care 
and steady heads. As the slope be¬ 
comes gentler the course followed ap¬ 
proaches the 1. bank of the glacier, 
where many alpine flowers bloom on 
the verge of the great snow-fields. In 
about 2 brs. from the Steinberg Alp 
the traveller reaches the point where 
it is usual to take to the ice, which is 
not unfrequently coated with fresh 
snow. When this is the case, the rope, 
and veils or dark spectacles, should be 
brought into play. With proper pre¬ 
cautions the ascent presents no difficulty 
or risk, as in the upper part of the 
glacier the crevasses are few and well 
bridged over. The rate of progress 
will depend on the state of the snow, 
bat from to 4 hrs. usuallv suffice to 
approach the remarkable gap in the 
ridge connecting the Gspaltenhorn and 
the Bliimlis Alp called the Gamchi 
Liicke. This spot. 9,272 ft. in height, 
commands a wide view over the moun¬ 
tains and valleys of the Canton Berne, 




ROUTE G.-THE LtlTSCHENTHAL. 


101 


with the blue line of the Jura in the 
background, which is especially inter¬ 
esting for the abrupt contrast to the 
region of ice, snow, and bare rock, 
lying on the other side. Immediately 
at the spectator’s feet the Gamchi 
Glacier descends very rapidly into the 
head of the Kienthal, and forms a 
rather difficult pass to that valley from 
the head of the Tschingel Glacier. The 
detour to the Gamchi Liicke, which 
well rewards those who have time to 
spare for the purpose, involves a delay 
of about | hr. besides the time that 
may be spent in enjoying the view. 
The descent from the gap is a little 
troublesome, but other travellers have j 
not found any such difficulties as are | 
described by M. Roth in his ‘ Glet- 
scherfahrten in den Berner Alpen,’ 
where he has given a lively and gene¬ 
rally accurate account of this pass. 

In 4£ hrs., not including halts, nor 
the detour to the Gamchi Liicke, the 
traveller may count on reaching the 
summit of the Tschinyel Pass (9,252'), 
lying between the low rocks of the 
Mutthorn and the precipitous ridge 
of the Morgenhorn (§ 23, Rte. B), the 
E. peak of the Blumlis Alp The 
summit is ill marked, as the plateau of 
neve curves very gently on either side. 
A few steps farther, and the traveller 
looks along the sloping snow-fields that 
cover the upper part of the Kander 
Glacier , while on the 1. hand the range 
of view is limited by the level snow- 
ridge of the Petersgrat. The few rocks 
that appear to rise above its ridge are 
in reality projecting bastions that do 
not reach the level of the upper pla¬ 
teau. The most striking object from 
the Kander Glacier are the precipices 
of the Blumlis Alp, whose four princi¬ 
pal peaks lie in the ridge that bounds 
the ice-valley on the N. side. The 
descent towards the Gasterenthal pre¬ 
sents no difficulty. The glacier is fol¬ 
lowed for about 1 hr. from the summit, 
until the increasing width of the cre¬ 
vasses makes it expedient to exchange 
the ice for the rocks that appear on the 
S. bank at a height of 7,940 ft. These 


form the uppermost extremity of the 
pastures of Alpetli at the head of the 
Gasterenthal. The Kander Glacier is 
shattered into a thousand towers and 
pinnacles of ice as it falls over a ledge 
of rock which sustains the upper pla¬ 
teau : and the comparatively small ice- 
stream that descends into the valley 
below the ice-cascade is called by the 
herdsmen of Gasteren Alpetli Glacier. 
Those who approach it from the SW. 
have no suspicion that the narrow and 
insignificant glacier which seems to 
close the valley is but a mere excres¬ 
cence from the vast mass, covering a 
square league of surface, that lies above 
the barrier. The descent on the rt. 
bank of the glacier is long and steep— 
a vertical height of 2,600 ft—effected 
partly by the rocks and grass slopes, 
partly along the lateral moraine. Below 
the glacier are two or three clusters of 
chalets, the chief of which is called Jm 
Selden, reached in 2^ hrs. from the 
summit of the pass. Here lives during 
the summer Peter Kunzi and his son, 
the first a good and experienced guide, 
the second a promising young moun¬ 
taineer. The remainder of the wav to 
Kandersteg, a walk of 2 hrs., is de¬ 
scribed in § 23, Rte. C. 

This beautiful excursion, being cf 
moderate length, about 9 hrs. from the 
Steinberg Alp, and involving no ap¬ 
preciable risk with efficient guide*,, 
may well serve as a first exercise—a 
pons asinorum in an inoffensive sense 
—for those who aspire to more intimate 
acquaintance with the high Alps than 
can be gained by following the habitual 
track of tourists. 


Route G 

LAUTERBRUNNEN TO TURTMAN, BV 
THE LOTSCHENTHAL. ASCENT OF 
THE BIETSCHHORN. 

3$ hrs. to tho Stpinberg Alp—hrs. to Hied — 
4 hrs. to Turtmau—in all 16 hrs. 

The glacier pass from Lauterbrunnen 
to the Lbtschenthal being rather longer 








102 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§ 24 . BERNESE OBERLAND. 


than that to Kandersteg described in the 
last rte., it is still more expedient to 
pass the night at the Steinberg Alp. 
Starting early next morning, an active 
walker may count on reaching Turt- 
man. and thus avoid the poor inns at 
Ried and Gampel. The descent into 
the Lotschenthal is usually a more dif¬ 
ficult piece of glacier work than any 
found on the route o Gasteren, and 
the rope should not be laid aside until 
the traveller has reached the rocks on 
the S. side 

As far as the summit of the Tschin- 
gel Pass this route is the same as that 
just described leading to Kandersteg. 
From the summit level on the NW. 
side of the Mutthorn which divides the 
Tschingel and Kander Glaciers it is 
necessary to turn about due S.. descend¬ 
ing a little into the snow basin which 
is drained by the branch of the Tschin¬ 
gel G1 that descends between the 
Wetterhorn and the Mutthorn. It 
would at first sight appear that a 
shorter course might be taken on the 
S. side of the Mutthorn; but that part 
of the glacier is much more crevassed, 
and time would doubtless be lost in 
seeking a passage. The ascent to the 
Petersgrat lies up easy slopes of neve, 
giving no trouble except after fresh 
snow. One or two large crevasses are 
seen; the smaller ones, if they exist, 
are well bridged over. The Peters- 
yrat, reached in less than 1^ hr. from 
the Tschingel Pass, or 5^ hrs. from the 
Steinberg Alp, presents, as stated in the 
last rte., no defined col, being a flat¬ 
tened ridge, almost perfectly level, about 
10,550 ft. in height It commands a 
noble view of the range of peaks on 
the opposite side of the Lotschenthal, 
extending from the Aletschhorn to the 
Kastlerhorn (10.827'). Preeminent 
amongst them is the grand rocky peak 
of the Bietschhorn (12,969'), rising 
exactly opposite from the snowy ridge 
which bars the prospect to the S. 
From the neve of the Petersgrat short 
glaciers descend towards the Lbtschen- 
thal through several narrow ravines 
that are excavated in the steep N. 


sLopes of that valley. The most con¬ 
siderable of these are the Inner Pfaffler- 
thal, the Ausser PfaJJlerthal, and the 

TellithaL and bv each of these the de- 
7 ¥ 

scent may be effected The writer has 
followed the Ausserthal Glacier, reach¬ 
ing the rocks on its left bank just 
below a fine nameless rocky summit, 
9,895 ft. in. height according to the 
Federal Map. lie found many treach¬ 
erous snow-covered crevasses at the 
top, and the glacier steep and much 
broken lower down, so as to require 
considerable steadiness on the part 
both of guides and travellers. The 
descent by the Telii Glacier is now 
usually preferred by the guides. It 
presents a good many crevasses, 
hut no serious difficulties. After 
reaching its base, a steep descent 
through a rocky glen leads down to 
the Lotschenthal, an alpine valley 
whose magnificent scenery has been 
insufficiently appreciated owing to the 
want of good a< eommodation. At its 
head is the Loisehen Glacier, over 
which lies the way to Viesch, described 
in next rte.; thence flows the Lonza 
torrent, which after watering the valley 
joins the Rhone at Gampel. In de¬ 
scending by the Ausserthal Gl. the 
level of the valley is reached at the 
chalets of Kuhmatten (5,309'). The 
descent through the Lotschenthal by 
a path on the rt. bank of the Lonza is 
very easy, and the scenery highly in¬ 
teresting. In ^ hr the traveller 
reaches Platten (5,085'), the highest 
hamlet in the valley. Rough night- 
quarters, but no fresh meat, are found 
at a little mountain inn lately opened 
at Pied, the next hamlet below Platten. 

I ravellers who follow' the usual course 
through theTellithal reach the main val¬ 
ley at Platten ; hut for those who intend 
to descend to the confluence of the Lonza 
with the Rhone, it is better to follow 
a more shaded path, chiefly through 
forest, along the northern slope of the 
valley, passing the hamlet of Wyssen- 
ried, and joining the main track a short 
distance above Kippel. This is easily 
reached in about hr. from Platten,or 







ROUTE H.—LAUTERBRUNNEN TO THE jEGGISCHHORN. 


103 


4 hours from the Petersgrat, if no un¬ 
usual difficulties are encountered in the 
descent. 

Kippel (4.659'), a very poor place, 
though the chief village in the valley, 
has no inn. In ease of need, uncom¬ 
fortable accommodation is found at the 
house ot the cure. From hence to Turt- 
man is a walk of 3 hrs. ; for the passes 
to Kandersteg and Leukerbad see §2:- 

From Kippel the first ascent of the 
Bietschhorn (12.969') was effected in 
1H59 by the Rev. Leslie Stephen, ac¬ 
companied by four natives of the 
valley, of whom one, named Johann 
Ziigler, is recommended as an efficient 
guide. The expedition occupied 15 
hrs.— 9 in the ascent, and 6 in return- j 
ing to Kippel. The course taken lay | 
through the forest on the S slope of 
the valley until the [tarty reached the 
Ntst Glacier, a narrow ice stream which 
sends its torrent to join the L< nza, a 
little below Platten. The glacier was 
crossed, and the remainder of the way 
lay along the steep rocky ridge which 
descends from the highest peak to¬ 
wards NNW. In one depression of 
the arete snow lies; beyond this a 
high crag, impracticably steep, projects 
from the ridge, and makes it necessary 
to clamber along the rocks overhang¬ 
ing the head of the Nest Glacier, and 
regain the ridge farther on by a diffi¬ 
cult climb. ‘ The arete is a narrow 
one, and the summit a sharp ridge 
about 100 yards long, of extremely 
wild and splintered rock, running N. 
and S.’ [L S.] Mr. Stephen was not 
fortunate in respect to weather, and the 
editor has not heard of any subsequent 
ascent. This peak shares with the 
Aletschhorn an unequalled position for 
a panoramic view. In the Federal 
Map the mountain is named ‘ Nesthorn 
Oder Bietschhornbut as the next high 
peak, about 3 m. to NE., is called 
Gross Nesthorn, the second name is 
now generally adopted. A third name 
is Baltschiederhorn, by which it is 
known in the Baltschiederthal, which 
descends from its base to the Rhone I 
near Visp. 


The Bhchfiuh Pass is extremely 
convenient lor mountaineers going 
from the head of the Lbtschenthal to 
the Bell Alp. It traverses the Birch 
Grat, or Beich Grat. which is the range 
connecting the Schienhorn with the 
Bietschhorn, and forming the NW. 
boundary of the Beich Firn (Rte. D). 
It is approached by the Distel Glacier 
from the Gletscherstaffel (see next 
Rte ), or from Kuhmatten. Care must 
be taken to pass on the NE. side of a 
projecting point marked 3,120’ on the 
Federal Map. In going from Ried 
about 9 hrs.—in the opposite direction 
8 hrs.—suffice for this pass. View from 
the summit magnificent. 


Route H. 

LAUTERBRUNNEN TO THE JEGGISCH- 

HORN, BY THE ALETSCH GLACIER. 

It is apparent from the map that the 
head of the valley of Lauterbrunnen is 
separated from the Valley of the Rhone 
by two alpine ranges of great height, 
and unusually difficult of access. Till 
very lately the range extending from 
the Monch to the Tschingelhorn might 
be said to be impassable. The ancient 
passage of the Wetterliicke had been 
rendered so difficult of access by ice, 
that no one was known to have tra¬ 
versed it during the present century. 
The intrepid Hugi attempted in vain 
the ascent of the precipices that en¬ 
close the Roththal. and no mountaineer 
has yet detected a weak point in the 
barrier between the Gletscherhorn and 
the Breithom offering the prospect 
of a successful escalade. The second 
ridge, extending from the Dreieckhorn 
to the Kastlerhorn, is not much easier 
of access. The only known pass is 
the Birchfluh, noticed in the last Rte. 

Since the 2E<rgischhorn Hotel has 
become the favourite head-quarters of 
mountaineers on the S. side of the 
Oberland Alps, it has been natural to 
seek a way thence to the valley of Lau¬ 
terbrunnen, and so complete on the W. 






104 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§ 24 . BERNESE OBERLAND. 


side the tour of the central peaks of the 
Bernese Alps. One circuitous route, 
involving in fine weather no serious 
difficulty, has been for some time 
adopted. This consists in passing over 
the SW. end of the Jungfrau range by 
the Petersgrat. then mounting by the 
Lotschenthal and Ldtschen Glacier to 
the head of the Aletsch Glacier along 
which the descent to the Mar,I el en See 
is effected by the NE. end of the Aletsch- 
horn range. Of the alternative courses 
noticed below, all are difficult, and 
two must be accounted dangerous. 

1. By the Petersgrat and Ldtschen 
Liicke. The absolute distance from 
the Steinberg Alp io the iEggischhorn 
Hotel by the course here described is 
certainly not less than 35 m. It in¬ 
volves the passage of two cols, each 
about 10,500 ft. in height, the ascent or 
descent of the steep rocks of the Tschin- 
geltritt, and many hours spent in tra¬ 
versing snow-fields. The distance is 
therefore too long for a single day’s 
journey, although some Lautevbrunnen 
guides, starting before daylight, have 
accomplished it within that interval. 
It may be effected from the S. side by- 
sleeping at the Faulberg, but it seems 
a much better plan to sleep at Hied, 
or at the Gletscherstaffel, where rough 
quarters may now be found by travel¬ 
ers. Either place may serve as night- 
quarters for those who may wish to 
approach the 2Eggischhorn from the 
lower part of the valley of the Rhone 
by a fine glacier pass instead of follow¬ 
ing the high-road to Brieg; and there 
is no advantage in halting at Ferden 
or Kippel. Mountaineers proceeding 
from the Baths of Leuk or from Kan- 
dersteg to the iEggischhorn will reach 
the Lotschenthal by some one of the 
passes mentioned in § 23 (Rtes. C and 
D), avoiding altogether the hot and un¬ 
interesting valley of the Rhone. From 
the head of the Lotscheuthal to the 
Marjelen See the way lies altogether 
over ice or snow, the distance—allow¬ 
ing for unavoidable detours caused by 
crevasses—being about 18 m. There 
is probably no other greater glacier pass 


so free from danger or difficulty, if 
made in suitable weather and with 
proper precautions, of which the most 
important are the use of the rcpe in 
the upper region where the neve 
stretches for miles in gentle slopes 
without a break, and that of veils or 
spectacles to protect the eyes. 

In ascending the Lotschenthal, 2^ hrs. 
are counted from Ried to the foot of the 
Ldtschen Glttscher, also called in the 
valley Lange Glacier, 6,175 ft. above 
the level of the sea. At a group of 
rather well-looking chalets, called 
Gletscherstaffel. 4 hr. below the end 
of the glacier, accommodation for the 
n ght may be found nearly as good as 
that at Platten. In any other part of 
the Alps the Lotschen Glacier might 
count as a considerable ice-stream, the 
main glacier descending from the Lot¬ 
schen Liicke, being about 44 miles in 
length. It receives a considerable 
branch from the N. descending from 
the Grosshorn and the Mittaghorn. 
On the S. side the Aletschhorn range 
rises more steeply; one small affluent 
—the Uistel GI. —descends near the 
foot of the main glacier. The lower 
and upper portions of the Lotschen 
Gl. are nearly free from crevasses, but 
the middle part is much broken, though 
not so much as to oppose serious ob¬ 
stacles to experienced icemen. The 
usual course is to cross the Lonza at the 
Gletscherstaffel, and follow the 1. bank 
to the S. side of the glacier close to 
the junction of the Distel Glacier. 
Beyond the junction the course is by a 
sheep-path running along the base of 
the Birchfluh, returning after a while 
to the centre of the main glacier. ‘ It 
is a better way to ascend by the grassy 
slopes on the rt. bank of the Lange Gl. 
as far as the junction with the Ahnen 
Gl.’ [A. G. G.] It is necessary to pass 
near the base of the grand ice-fall 
by which the latter glacier descends 
from a hollow between the Grosshorn 
and Mittaghorn. After reaching the 
neve, fresh crevasses opening near the 
rt. bank drive the traveller back to¬ 
wards the opposite side ; but he should 






ROUTE H.—THE LAWINEN THOR. 


105 


not approach too near to the precipices 
of the Distelhorn, as this sends down 
frequent avalanches and blocks of stone 
that threaten danger to the unwary 
intruder. A rather steep snow-slope, 
traversed by a wide bergschrund which 
is usually bridged over, leads in 4 hrs. 
from the Gletscherstaffel to the summit 
of the pass. 

The Lotschen Liicke, also called 
Lotschsattel (10,512'), is the lowest 
point in the range of the Ahnengrat, 
a transverse ridge linking together the 
parallel ranges whose highest peaks 
are the Jungfrau and the Aletschhorn. 
The latter noble peak rises near at 
hand, nearly due W. of the pass, in 
extremely steep snow-slopes. Bearing 
somewhat to the 1. in the gentle descent 
from the I.iicke, hr. usually suffices 
to attain that central point of the Aletsch 
Glacier, whence, as described in Rte 
D, its four principal arms diverge. 
From thence the ^Eggischhora Ho¬ 
tel is reached in 3^ or 4 hrs. (or 
fully 10 hrs., exclusive of halts, from 
Ried), bv the Marjelen See (see Rte. 
D). 

2. By the Wetterliicke. Mr. A. W. 
Moore, with Christian Aimer, were the 
first to reopen this ancient pass, already- 
noticed in Rte. F. 1 hough much 
shorter in distance for those going 
from Lauterbrunnen to the head of the 
Lotschenthal, it takes quite as much 
time as the detour by the Petersgrat, 
and at certain times a ladder might be 
necessary for the passage of the Breit- 
horn Glacier. 

Crossing the spur of the opposite 
hill, Mr. Moore mounted trom the 
Gletscherstaffel in 2 hrs. to the head 
of the Inner Pfafflerthal. To the 1. is 
seen a tongue of glacier descending 
from the Petersgrat, in front another 
coming from the Wetterliicke. Mount¬ 
ing gradually above the l. bank of the 
torrent, and climbing through a steep 
gully, the latter glacier was reached at 
its extreme SE. angle, close under a 
great spur of the Breithorn. The as¬ 
cent from that point to the col is 
gentle, and seems easy; but the neve 


is undermined by enormous chasms 
masked by a thin coating of snow-, and 
requires the utmost care. The Breit¬ 
horn Glacier over which lies the 
descent to the Steinberg is extremely 
difficult. Mr. Moore bore rather to¬ 
wards the 1. bank ; in 1865 Messrs. 
Hornby and Philpott found a shorter 
course by keeping to the rt. after they 
had descended a short way from the 
col, and gaining the rocky buttress that 
sustains the upper part of the glacier. 
Here all difficulties were over, but tne 
descent of the ice-wall on to the rock 
was extremely difficult, and may be 
sometimes impossible. When taken from 
Lauterbrunnen keep as Jar as possible 
to the left in descending from the Col. 

3. By the Lawmen Thor. An ac¬ 
count of this pass is given in the first 
series of ‘Vacation Tourists.’ It has 
not b= en repeated, and is too hazardous 
an expedition to be recommended for 
future adoption. 

The Lawmen Thor is the name given 
by Professor Tyndall to a pass made by 
himself and Mr. F. V. Hawkins, from 
Lauterbrunnen to the Aletsch Glacier 
by the head of the Rolhthal. That 
savage glen, an ice-basin bound round 
by precipices of dark rock, is closed by 
the ridge connecting the Jungfrau with 
the G'etscherhorn, which on the W. 
side presents a range of formidable- 
looking rocks seamed by slender cou¬ 
loirs of snow or ice. 

Starting from Lauterbrunnen with 
Christian I.auener and the younger 
Kaufmann of Grindelwald, August 9, 
1860, in 2^ hrs. they reached the 
chalets of the Stufenstein Alp. The 
small glacier of the Roththal occupies 
the centre of a very grand amphi¬ 
theatre. and is w-ell worth a visit from 
Lauterbrunnen by th- se who do not 
aim at a further ascent. Mounting by 
the moraiue on the rt. bank of this gla¬ 
cier, the party soon reached the neve 
at the head of the amphitheatre. The 
climb from the base of the rocks through 
the narrow couloir which led to the 
ridge cost 7 hrs., and the iEggischhorn 
inn was reached after nightfall. 






106 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§ 24 . BERNESE OBERLAND. 


At least three other diihcult and dan¬ 
gerous passes have been effected by 
British travellers over the ridge be¬ 
tween the Jungfrau and the Tschingel- 
horn. Messrs Hornby, Philpott, and 
Morshead reached the col—called by 
them Ebnefluh Joch—between the Eb- 
neliuh and Mittaghorn, in 10 hrs. from 
Trachsellauenen. The same travellers 
crossed the Schmadri Joch between the 
Grosshorr. and Breithorn, and, finding 
the snow in good order, reached Lauter- 
brunnen in less than 9 hrs. : aciual walk¬ 
ing from the Gletscherstaffel in the 
Lbtschenthal. 

Messrs. L. Stephen, Macdonald, and 
F. C. Grove, with Melchior and Ja¬ 
cob Anderegg, and Johann Bischof, 
mounted through the Roththal to a point 
a little above the Roththal Sattel, made 
the detour to the summit of the Jung¬ 
frau in only If hr., and reached the 
iEggischhorn in 18 hrs., including 
halts, from Lauterbrunnen. These 
must all be reckoned as tours de force , 
though, when better known, the Schma¬ 
dri Joch may be found a useful pass. 


Route I. 

CRINDELWALD TO THE AXJGISCHHORN. 

ASCENT OF THE MONCH AND AL- 

MERHORN. 

As stated in Rte. B, there is a tradi¬ 
tion in the Bernese Oberland, supported 
by some documentary evidence, that, 
before the great increase of the glaciers, 
which appears to have occurred during 
the last two or three centuries, a prac 
ticable pass existed between Grindel- 
wald and Viesch in the Valais. In 
modern times the old pass had been 
altogether disused, and its precise posi¬ 
tion is a matter of uncertainty. Of late 
years, since the hotel on the iEggisch- 
horn has been frequented by English 
mountaineers, the practicability of tra 
versing the great ridge that encloses 


the head of the A let sell Glacier, and 
so connecting the vEggischhorn with 
Grindelwald and the Wengern Alp, has 
become at once a matter of practical 
interest, and a topographical problem 
which has excited to the utmost the 
emulation of adventurous mountaineers. 
The result has been, that no less than 
four such passes have been effected. 
But one of them—the Monch Joch— 
can be recommended even for practised 
mountaineers. Two of the number— 
the J ungfrau Joch and the Eiger Joch 
—may be counted among the most 
difficult hitherto accomplished in the 
Alps. Experience along with strength 
and activity in the traveller, and the 
assistance of first-rate guides, who alone 
should be taken on such expeditions, 
may reduce the risk w ithin moderate 
limits; hut it cannot be altogether re¬ 
moved by any amount of skill or ex¬ 
perience. It is a further matter for con¬ 
sideration that those who undertake 
either the last-mentioned passes, or the 
Viescher Joch. must be prepared for the 
possibility of having, after a very labo¬ 
rious day, to pass the night in some 
exposed position at a great height above 
the sea, without fuel or extra covering; 
a prospect which to many persons is 
more discouraging than the inevitable 
but exciting risks of a perilous ascent. 

1. By the Jungfrau Joch. Those 
who view 7 the Jungfrau from the NW., 
or in the opposite direction from the 
Aletsch Glacier, must equally remark 
the w 7 ell-defined col or depression 
which separates the peak from its 
neighbour the Monch. This col forms 
in truth the natural termination of the 
Aletsch Glacier, and it has been seen, 
in Rte. D, that it is accessible from the 
JEggischhorn by the long but easy 
ascent of that great ice-stream. The 
case is very different on the NW. side 
facing the Wengern Alp Thousands 
of travellers have annually crossed that 
pass, and have gazed up wfith admira¬ 
tion at the precipitous crags and im¬ 
pending ice-masses that seem to oppose 
an insurmountable barrier to human 
progress. It does not appear that the 




ROUTE I..—THE JUNGFRAU JOCH. 


107 


idea of attempting to escalade this stu¬ 
pendous rampart ever presented itself 
to the mind either of foreigner or native, 
until some adventurous members of the 
Alpine Club, emboldened by the sue 
cess of an almost equally hopeless- 
looking enterprise—the passage of the 
Eiger Joch—resolved to make the at¬ 
tempt. Two separate parties, intent 
upon the same design, happened to 
meet at Grindelwald in July 1862, and 
resolved to join their forces for the 
assault. The successful party consisted 
of Messrs. L. Stephen, F. J. Hardy, 
H. B. George, Liveing, Moore, and 
Morgan, with Christian Aimer, Chris¬ 
tian and Peter Michel, Ulrich Kauff- 
mann, P. Baumann, and C. Bohren, as 
guides. As on many other difficult 
expeditions, the two first guides espe¬ 
cially distinguished themselves. The 
party having been forced to return on 
the first day for want of the means for 
bridging over a great bergsehrund, 
returned on the following day with a 
ladder 25 ft. in length, borne by Peter 
Rubi, a porter from Grindelwald, whose 
strength, steadiness, and good-humour 
under trying circumstances were highly 
commended. The way lies at first by 
the rocky buttress of the Mdnch, sepa¬ 
rating the Eiger and Guggi Glaciers 
mentioned in Rte. B : though steep, it 
is not very difficult of access. From 
the buttress it is necessary to descend 
a little in order to reach the Guggi 
Glacier, which may be ascended with¬ 
out meeting serious obstacles as far as 
a considerable plateau, scarcely seen 
from the Wengern Alp. This halting- 
place, reached in about 3 hrs., lies im¬ 
mediately under the most difficult and 
dangerous part of the ascent. In front 
a pile of ice debris, lying along the 
base of a high ledge of rocks, seems to 
offer a possible route ; but the debris is 
produced by the fall of masses of ice 
from an upper shelf of glacier, and an 
attempt to mount in that direction was 
found to be not only highly dangerous, 
but beset with insurmountable obstacles. 
To the rt. the glacier descends in shat¬ 
tered masses, divided by yawning cre¬ 


vasses. The impending towers and 
pinnacles, along and around which it 
is necessary to climb or creep by steps 
hewn with the ice-axe momentarily 
threaten the intruders with destruction; 
and the frequent recurrence of crum¬ 
bling blocks of ice proves the fragility 
of the material and the frequency of 
avalanches. The chance of passing in 
safety mainly depends on the travellers 
being able to get through this part of 
the climb before the sun has struck 
the ice, and loosed the bands that hold 
together the tottering structure. To¬ 
wards the summit is a great berg¬ 
sehrund, in most places 30 ft. wide, 
traversing the whole width of the gla¬ 
cier, and impassable without a rather 
long ladder. Above the bergsehrund 
is a second and smaller plateau, dis¬ 
tinguishable from the Wengern Alp, 
which lies immediately under the long 
slopes of broken neve that lie below 
the col. Fully 2 hrs. must be allowed 
for reaching this from the lower plateau, 
perhaps a much longer time when it is 
necessary to cut steps for a great part 
of the way. Here there is a clear view 
of the last very arduous stage in the 
ascent. A single patch of dark rocks 
juts out from the snow in the ridge 
connecting the Jungfrau with the 
Mdnch. To the 1. of this the neA 7 e, 
broken in huge semes, whose interstices 
are filled with snow, lies at an estimated 
angle of between 50° and 60°, the 
whole being irregularly cut through 
by crevasses. To the rt. of the rocks 
the neve lies in a more even, but still 
steeper slope; and after an attempt made 
by C. Aimer and C. Michel to cut their 
way up it, the hardness of the neve 
and the perilous steepness of the wall 
induced them to return in order to try 
the alternative course by the seracs. 
This lies w 7 ell to the 1. of the last rocks, 
and though excessively steep, involves 
less of real risk than the lower portion 
of the ascent. After more than an 
hour’s climb, direct progress was ar¬ 
rested by a great wall of blue ice, whose 
projecting comice of snow was fringed 
by long icicles It was necessary to 



108 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§ 24 . BERNESE OBERLAND. 


bear to the 1. in the direction of the 
Monch, along the base of the wall by a 
slippery pathway of ice formed from 
the dripping from the icicles above. 
At a point where the pathway thinned 
out nearly to a point, and was cut across 
a transverse crevasse, the wall be¬ 
came low enough to be scaled by the 
ladder. This was the last serious ob¬ 
stacle : a moderate slope of neve, un¬ 
broken by crevasses, then led up to the 
summit of the pass, which was attained 
in hrs. from the Wengern Alp, in¬ 
clusive of halts. After reaching the 
first patch of rocks, a short way below 
the col on the S. side, the party divided: 
Messrs. George and Moore, with C. 
Aimer and U. Kaufmann. went down to 
the iEggischhorn, which was reached 
in 64 hrs., exclusive of stoppages, while 
the remainder of the party returned to 
Grindelwald by the Monch Joch. 

Since the first successful passage the 
col has been traversed several times. In 
the second ascent, made by Messrs 
F. W. Jacomb and Rennison, with C. 
ana P. Michel, and two other Grin¬ 
delwald guides, with a view to turn 
to account the steps cut a few days 
before in the ascent of the Silberhorn, 
the Michels took a course from the 
main plateau of the Guggi Glacier lying 
farther to the rt., or nearer to the Jung¬ 
frau, than in the previous ascent. The 
glacier seems to be rather less broken 
on that side, but the slopes are even 
more formidably steep. Mr. Jacomb 
states that he measured with the clino¬ 
meter inclinations of 60°, and even up 
to 72°. 

The height of the Jungfrau Joch , as 
determined by Mr. Jacomb by observa¬ 
tions with the Aneroid Barometer, 
boiling-point apparatus, and level, is 
11,095 ft., probably a near approxima¬ 
tion to the exact height. 

For obvious reasons this pass should 
be taken from the Wengern Alp side. 
It is true that Messrs. Hornby and 
Philpott, with C. Aimer, C. Lauener, 
and J. Bischof, having reached the 
summit from the Aletsch Glacier at 5 
a.M., descended to the Wengern Alp, 


getting off the ice at 10.30. The powers 
of their first-rate guides were tasked to 
the utmost, and the danger, if they had 
been delayed, very serious. 

Through the familiarity with the 
formidable-looking crags and glaciers 
of the Jungfrau gained in these and 
other similar expeditions by the Ober- 
land guides, at least two travellers — 
Mr. G. E. Forster, and subsequently 
M. v. Fellenberg—have been enabled 
to reach the summit of the Jungfrau 
from the Wengern Alp. 

2. By the Eiger Joch. Like the pass 
just described, this should be attempted 
only from the Wengern Alp. It has 
been effected but once, by the Rev. 
Leslie Stephen and Messrs. W. and G. 
S. Mathews, with Ulrich Lauener of 
Lauterbrunnen, and J. B. Croz and 
M. Charlet of Chamouni. 

It has been observed in Rte. B, 
that the Eiger does not lie in the ridge 
of the Oberland Alps which divides 
the basins of the Rhone and the Aar, 
but forms a promontory extending 
NNE. from the Monch, and connected 
with it by a long and high arete, in 
which jagged teeth of rock project 
through a coating of ice. At the S. 
end, where this arete abuts against the 
shoulder of the Monch, it overlooks 
the gently-sloping plateau which forms 
the summit of the Monch Joch (next 
to be described), and the descent on 
the side of the Aletsch Glacier pre¬ 
sents no serious difficulty. 

In August 1S59, the three enter¬ 
prising mountaineers above named, 
failing to perceive any route by which 
the Jungfrau Joch could be attacked 
with a fair prospect of success, resolved 
to attempt to pass from the 'Wengern 
A lp by the N. and E. sides of the peak 
of the Monch. Starting at 4 a.m. they 
soon reached the Eiger Glacier, and 
mounted for some distance along the 
side nearest to the Eiger. On reaching 
the very much crevassed middle region 
of the glacier, some time was lost in 
the endeavour to force a direct way. 
The correct course is to cross to the S. 
bank below the rocks of the Monch. 




ROUTE I.-THE EIGER JOCH. 


109 


After a short ascent the form of the 
crevasses makes it expedient to cross 
back to the opposite side, nearly to the 
edge of the glacier, here held up by 
the great rocky buttress of the Eiger, 
so remarkable from the Wengern Alp. 
Further progress seems to be barred by 
the menacing condition of the seracs ; 
but the difficulties may be avoided by 
crossing the glacier diagonally a third 
time to a sort of snow valley, where 
the crevasses are apparently filled up 
by avalanches from the Monch. By 
this circuitous but not very difficult 
route the party reached the uppermost 
plateau of the glacier, lying imme¬ 
diately below the ridge connecting the 
two peaks. On the side nearest the 
Monch the ridge is accessible only by 
extremely long and steep slopes of 
hard neve. At the end approaching 
the Eiger the ridge is far easier of 
access, and this therefore was the first 
object of attack. On gaining the 
summit the travellers found themselves 
at the top of a tremendous precipice 
overlooking one arm of the Lower 
Grindelwald Glacier, while the arete 
to the rt. connecting them with the 
Monch was broken through by so many 
jagged teeth of rock, and at the same 
time so narrow and difficult, that 6 hrs. 
would probably have been consumed 
in passing along it. It was therefore 
thought expedient to return, and to 
attempt the ascent by the ice-slope, as 
it should be called since the neve is so 
hard and slippery as to make step- 
cutting very laborious. Ulrich Lauener 
on that occasion displayed extraor¬ 
dinary strength and endurance, having 
in 5 hrs. of uninterrupted work cut 
5^0 steps on an ice slope of from 50 
to 52° inclination. That effort sufficed 
only to enable the party to gain a 
patch of rock some way below the 
summit of the ridge, and more than an 
hour more was expended in reaching 
the desired goal. Turning to the right 
along the arete, they finally reached at 
o p.m. the point on the shoulder of the 
Monch which forms the summit level 
of this pass. It has been supposed that 


this corresponds with a point marked 
on the Federal Map 3,747 metres, or 
12,294 ft. in height; but this must be 
considered uncertain. The view is 
rated by Mr. L. Stephen, who has 
seen at least as much of the upper re¬ 
gion of the Alps as any other traveller, 
as unequalled for grandeur and variety. 
Unlike other passes, this commands the 
whole of three glacier basins. Beyond 
the Guggi Glacier lies the Wengern 
Alp, and the mountains, here dwindled 
into hillocks, that separate it from the 
Lake of Thun, and farther still, the 
plain of Switzerland bounded by the 
Jura. Eastward is the great basin of 
the Lower Grindelwald Glacier, with 
the rugged peak of the Schreckhorn, 
and the three Wetterhdrner rising 
above the Mettenberg. while the sharp 
point of the Finsteraarhorn is seen 
above the Walcherhomer. Lastly, the 
magnificent stream of the Aletsch 
Glacier stretches far away to the S. 
between the snowy peaks that guard it 
on either hand. This is doubtless a 
finer point of view than that from the 
Jungfrau Joch, and in a favourable 
condition of the snow may be reached 
in a long day’s excursion from the 
iEggischhorn ; but it would be found 
rather too distant for ordinary pedes¬ 
trians. It may, however, he combined 
with the passage of the M5nch Joch 
by a slight detour, which is recom¬ 
mended to future travellers. 

In descending to the Aletsch Glacier 
the discoverers of this pass were 
benighted before they could reach the 
comparative shelter of the Faulberg 
cave, and were forced to pass the night 
on some exposed rocks at the S. base of 
the Trugberg, where their position in 
case of bad weather would have been 
very critical. The .ZEggischhorn was 
reached on the following morning 
about 9 a.m. in about 29 hrs. from the 
Wengern Alp, of w hich 22 hrs. were 
spent in active exertion. 

3. By the Monch Joch : Ascent 
of the Monch. Unlike the two last 
passes, this must be taken from Grin- 
del w^ald instead of from the Wengern 



110 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§ 24 . BERNESE OBERLAND. 


Alp, and is the most direct way from 
that place to the valley of the Rhone. 
As compared with them it may be 
called easy, and the chief objection to 
it arises from the distance to be tra¬ 
versed; which, even under favourable 
circumstances, requires 15 hrs. exclu¬ 
sive of halts. It is possible, however, 
to break the journey, and obtaiu some 
rest on the way, by passing the night 
in the hut at the Zasenberg, or in a cave 
called by English travellers the Eiger 
Hole. In making the pass from 
the iEggischhorn, the halt may be 
made at the Faulberg, or, in very fine 
w ? eather, by bivouacking on the rocks 
at the S. base of the Trugberg. In 
this way time may be found for a 
detour to the Eiger Joch, and even for 
the ascent of the Munch or the Viesch- 
erhorn. Late in the season, when the 
snow-bridges over the crevasses have 
disappeared, it is better to make the 
passage from the Grindelwald side, as 
the descent of the very broken gla¬ 
cier on that side has been found, espe¬ 
cially in 1865, very difficult lor a party 
not provided with a ladder. 

The first recorded passage of the 
Monch Joch was effected in 1858 
by the Rev. C. Hudson, and Messrs. 
Birkbeck and Joad, with Melchior 
Anderegg and Victor Tairraz as 
guides. It lies on the E. side of the 
Monch, between that peak and the 
range of the Viescliergrat. and consists 
of a nearly level plateau of neve which 
descends on the S. side to the Aletsch 
Glacier, and in the opposite direction 
to the S. branch of the Lower Grindel¬ 
wald Glacier, called on the Federal 
Map Viescher Gl. It is unfortunate 
that the confusion existing between 
that glacier and the greater ice stream 
bearing the same name, which flows 
from the base of the Finsteraarhorn 
towards the village of Viesch, should 
be perpetuated by that authentic map, 
and that a similar confusion should 
have been allowed to continue in 
regard to the group of high summits 
lying in the space between the head of 
the Grindelwald Glacier and tlieGriin- 


horn Liicke (bounded on the W. by 
the Trugberg Glacier, on the E. by 
the greater glacier of Viesch), and the 
rather lower group of the Walliser 
Viescherhorner, extending southward 
from the Griinhorn Liicke to the Mar- 
jelen See. 

Since the publication of the first edi¬ 
tion of this work, the nomenclature of 
this and some other portions of the 
Bernese Alps has been revised, and a 
new edition of the 18th sheet of the 
Federal Map will shortly appear, with 
various alterations. As it is probable 
that the names proposed on so high an 
authority will ultimately be adopted in 
Switzerland, it has seemed expedient 
to conform to them in the present work, 
although the new names cannot all 
be considered satisfactory. For the 
peaks immediately N. of the Griinhorn 
Liicke the collective name, Griinhorn 
Group is proposed, and for the separate 
peaks the names already mentioned in 
Rte. D. Instead of adopting the ex¬ 
isting name, Walclierhomer , for the 
group lying between the Monch and 
the Agassizhorn, the cumbrous desig¬ 
nation G> indelwalder Viescherhorner is 
retained. The name Gross Viescher- 
horn is transferred from the lowest to 
the highest of this group, for which 
the name Almerhorn was proposed in 
the first edition of this work. Far¬ 
ther S. stands the Hinter Viescherhorn 
(13,189'), while the name Klein Vies¬ 
cherhorn, or Ochs, is given to the NE. 
peak, rising immediately above the 
Zasenberg, as seen from the Biinisegg. 
This is 12,707 ft. in height. It seems 
scarcely advisable to overload this work 
by introducing unimportant names now 
for the first time proposed. This re¬ 
mark applies especially to separate 
names assigned to the upper portion 
of several glaciers; e.g. the name 
Ewigeschneefeld, given to the upper 
basin of the Trugberg Glacier, b •- 
ween that mountain and the Griinhorn 
Group. 

'['he ascent of the N. side of the 
Monch Joch may perhaps be perma¬ 
nently altered by the changes in the 





ROUTE I.—THE MONCII JOCH. 


Ill 


upper part of the glacier that have oc¬ 
curred since 1865. The ice is much 
broken, and, though not indispensable, 
a ladder often serves to shorten the 
way and save time. The best course 
for approaching the pass is to cross 
the Lower Grindelwald glacier above 
the lower ice-fall, and ascend along 
the 1. bank of the S. branch, or 
Viescher Glacier, by the Mittelegi, a 
ridge which descends from the Eiger. 
Here is a small cave well known to the 
Grindelwald guides, reached in about 
4^ hrs. from the village, where shelter 
may be had for the night. The ascent 
from thence, though not dangerous to 
skilful ice-men, is quite difficult enough 
to require the services of thoroughly 
good guides. According to the state 
of the snow, from 4^ to 5 hrs. are re¬ 
quired to reach the summit; and this 
time may be exceeded when the neve 
is so hard as to require the use of the 
axe. The view, already magnificent, 
may be extended by a detour to the 
summit of the Eiger Joch lying on the 
adjoining shoulder of the Mcinch. The 
height of the Monch Joch has not been 
determined by direct observation. The 
figures 3,560 on the Federal Map, equi¬ 
valent to 11,680 ft., appear to refer to the 
W. end of the rocks of the Vieschergrat, 
a little above the level of the pass. Two 
courses are open for the descent to the 
JEggischhorn. Bearing tothe rt. across 
the snow col that separates the Trug- 
berg from the Mbnch, there is no great 
difficulty in descending upon the head 
of the Aletsch Glacier, where this route 
joins that from the Jungfrau Joch (see 
Rte. D). From to 8 hrs. should be 
allowed for reaching the hotel. The 
other course lies to SE., over the great 
field of neve lying E. o ihe Trugberg, 
whence flows the Trugberg Glacier. 
This is usually the shorter course ; but 
the lower part of the Trugberg Gl. 
above its junction with that of Aletsch 
forms a steep and broken ice-fall, and 
some delay must be expected in the 
passage. It will generally be found 
expedient to pass along the rocks that 
form the S. base ot the Irugberg. 


Like Messrs George and Moore, who 
passed this way in 1862, the writer in 
1857 was guided to the best passage 
between the rocks and the lower glacier 
by the trail of a chamois. These rocks 
were turned to account by the last- 
named travellers as a halting-place for 
the night They are conveniently 
placed for those who attempt the ascent 
of the Monch or the highest Viescher- 
horn, but except in very fine weather 
they are too exposed to suit most 
travellers. 

The ascent of the Mooch (13.438') 
may under favourable circumstances be 
combined with the passage of the Monch 
Joch, but a long summer s day is not 
too much for an expedition which com¬ 
bines a difficult ascent w'ith a very long 
walk. Though usually presenting a 
rounded outline, this is undoubtedly 
to be reckoned among the more difficult 
of access of alpine peaks. An account 
of the ascent in 1855 by a lady who 
writes under the name Countess Dora 
d’lstria is evidently fabulous, so far as 
regards the ascent from the Monch 
Joch to the summit. The first authen¬ 
tic ascent was by Dr Porges, of Vienna, 
w’ith Christian Aimer and other Grin- 
delwald guides. It was effected by the 
E. ridge, which de-cends towards the 
Monch Joch. The difficulties were so 
great, that it was necessary to descend 
by the S. arete, and the party slept for 
two successive nights on the rocks of 
the Vieschergrat near the top of the 
pass. Nearly at the same point a hut 
has now been built which will much 
assist future explorers. In 1862, two 
attempts to reacii the summit, the 
one by the S. arete, the other from 
the Wengern Alp, by the great buttress 
that separates the Eiger and Guggi 
glaciers, were both unsuccessful. In 
1863, Mr. Macdonald started with M. 
Anderegg and C. Aimer at 1 a.m. 
from the Faulberg, reached the summit 
about 9 a.m., and was able to return 
to the JEggischhorn by 6. 45 p.m. Six 
days later, the Lev. J. J. Hornby and 
M. T. H. Philpott, w ith Christian 
Aimer, Christian Lauener, and J. Bi- 







112 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§24. BERNESE OBERLAND. 


schoff of Lauterbrunnen, started from 
the Eiger Hole at 2. 15 a.m., reached 
the summit at 11, and descended to the 
iEggischhorn at 8 p.m. Both these 
ascents were accomplished by the S. 
ridge of the mountain which connects 
the summit with the col separating it 
from theTrugberg, 3 hrs. being required 
for the ascent, and little more than 
1 hr. for the descent. Although the 
ridge is very sharp, a part of the ascent 
may be accomplished along its W. face; 
but after attaining a point which looks 
from below to be the top, it is found 
that this is still at a considerable 
distance, and must be reached by a very 
sharp nearly level arete of ice. The 
summit is a flattish plateau whose 
highest point does not command a view 
of the Wengern Alp : this is seen by 
approaching the N verge, which also 
overlooks the ridge leading to the 
Eiger. 

The ascent of the Gross Viescher- 
horn (13,281'), called Aimer horn in 
the 1st edition, was first effected in 
1802 by Messrs. George and Moore, 
with Christian Aimer and Ulrich Kauf- 
mann as guides. The numerous cre¬ 
vasses of the neve on the E. side of the 
Trugberg Glacier were well covered 
over, and after passing a wide berg- 
schrund, and a steep but short slope of 
ice, the last part of the ascent was up 
a wall of very steep rocks, requiring 
skilful and cautious climbing. The 
top is a ledge of rock overhanging the 
upper basin of the Grindelwald Glacier. 
It appears to be the most centrally 
placed of all the higher peaks of the 
hernese Alps. The Finsteraarhorn and 
the Schreckhorn are especially striking 
from the startling steepness of their 
uppermost ridges. The descent by the 
bergschrund and the crevassed Trug¬ 
berg Gl. must be difficult after the sun 
has acquired power. It is expedient 
either to sleep at the Trugberg rocks, 
or to carry a ladder. 

4. By the Viescher Joch. This pass 
was discovered in 1862 by Messrs. L. 
Stephen, Hardy, Liveing and Morgan, 
with the two Michels, Baumann, C, 


Bohren, and Inabnit, as guides. Sleep¬ 
ing- at the Kastenstein, a hole under a 
rock near the W. foot of the Strahleck 
pass, they ascended one of the minor 
ice-streams that flows into the head of 
the Lower Grindelwald Glacier on the 
SE. side of the Klein Viescherhorn, or 
Ochs. The summit of tiie pass was 
reached after many hours’ fatiguing 
ascent through soft snow, and after 
passing a large bergschrund where a 
ladder borne by one of the guides was 
of essential service. Owing to bad 
weather, no definite account of the pass 
can be given The way lay over the 
Viesch Glacier, and the Marjelen Alp 
was reached in 7 hrs. from the summit; 
but having lost their way in the dark, 
the travellers did not reach the JEg- 
gischhorn Hotel until near 3 a.m., after 
22 hrs.’ active exertion. Being de¬ 
cidedly longer than the Mbnch Joch, 
and inferior in point of scenery, it may 
be inferred that this pass offers but few 
attractions for future travellers. 

5. By the Agassiz Joch. This fine 
pass was first made in 1867 by Messrs. 
Hornby, Bhiipott,and Morshead. Start¬ 
ing from the Kastenstein, they crossed 
the Fmsteraar Joch (Rte. K), and de¬ 
scended but a short way in order to 
approach the great couloir between the 
Agassizhorn (12,960') and the Finster¬ 
aarhorn. The snow being in perfect 
order, they mounted in 2 hrs. to the 
col which lies between those peaks, 
and descended in 7 hrs. to the iEggisch- 
horn by the Griinberg Liicke. 

A still more difficult and unattractive 
pass was made in 1868 by Mr. G. E. 
Forster, and called by him Ochsenjoch. 
It lies E. of the Ochsenhorn, and cost 
6 hrs. of step-cutting in the ascent 



ROUTE K.-THE UNTERAAR GLACIER. 


118 


Route 1y. 

GRINDELWALD TO THE GRIMSEL. 

A8CENT OF THE SCHRECKHORN. 

The passes described in the two last 
rtes. all lead from the Bernese side of 
the Oberland Alps to the Valley of the 
Rhone. The great glaciers which on 
the one side feed the sources of the Aar, 
and on the other those of the Schwarze 
Eiitschine, are connected by passes 
little less lofty, and quite as interesting 
for the grandeur of the scenery through 
which they conduct the traveller. 
These remain to be described. 

The best known and on the whole 
the most interesting route between 
Grindelwald and the Grimsel is by 
the Strahleck Pass. A parallel pass 
called the Finsteraar Joeh supplies an 
agreeable variation on the ordinary 
course, while the Lauteraar Joch, lying 
on the N. side of the Schreckhorn, 
diverges widely from it. As the first 
of these is better taken from the side 
of the Grimsel, the traveller is here 
supposed to start from that place 
The other two passes may wfith more 
advantage be taken from the Grindel¬ 
wald side. 

1. By the Strahleck Pass. Grimsel 
to Grindelwald , 12 to 13 hrs., exclusive 
of halts 

In spite of the interest attaching to 
many of the high passes discovered 
during the last few years by the enter- | 
prising members of the Alpine Club, > 
the writer is disposed to repeat an 
opinion advanced by him some years 
ago, that, if required to select a single 
pass by which a stranger to the upper 
region of the Alps should gain the 
fullest and most lively impression of 
the characteristic beauties of the ice- 
region. his choice would lie between 
this and the Coi du Geant. The dis¬ 
tance may be shortened by sleeping at 
the Pavilion on the Aar Glacier when 
the pass is made from the Grimsel, or 
at the Banisegg chalet in the ascent 
from Grindelwald ; but a moderately 
active w alker, starting in good time, 
may easily accomplish the entire dis- 

PART II. 1 


tance in one day, and may well prefer 
this course to the discomfort of sleep¬ 
ing in bad quarters. It is desirable in 
the latter case to start some time before 
daylight, so as to have full time to 
enjoy the expedition. It is scarcely 
necessary to say that good weather is 
an essential condition for enjoyment, 
and that at least one thoroughly re¬ 
liable guide should be taken. 

A short descent from the Grimsel 
Hospice (Rte. C) leads down to the 
Aar, along which a tolerable path 
passable for mules leads in about 1 hr. 
by the N. bank of the stream to some 
stone huts, 6,139 ft. above the sea. 
These are close to the lower end of 
the great Unteraar Glacier. This is 
so covered with blocks of stone and 
finer gravel, that a stranger approach¬ 
ing it does not suspect the presence of 
ice. The medial moraines, which 
higher up may be easily traced to their 
respective sources, here run together so 
as to overlie the entire terminal slope 
of the glacier. After scrambling up 
the edge, and amidst large scattered 
blocks, the traveller reaches the com¬ 
paratively flat surface which extends 
for a distance of rather more than 5 m 
w'ith a gentle ascending slope, almost 
unbroken by crevasses, to the base of 
the promontory called the Abschmung, 
which projects to the E. from the ridge 
of the Lauteraarhbrner, and separates 
the two principal ice-streams whose 
union forms the Unteraar Glacier. 
From its base to the foot of the Ab- 
sehwung (8,284') the surface of the 
glacier rises about 2,120 ft. The 
range on the N. bank of the glacier 
rises gradually towards the W. from 
the Bromberg (8,675') to the Schnee - 
horn, or Schneestoek (11,158'?). On 
the opposite side the Zinhens><,ch 
(9,987'), Grunherg (10,36!'). and 
Thierherg (10,410'), separate this from 
the parallel ice-valley of the Ober- 
aar Glacier. Among the objects of 
interest in this part of the glacier, the 
most remarkable is the great medial 
moraine descending from the Ab- 
schwung. Partly owing to the great 





114 


BERNESE ALPS. § 24. BERNESE OBERLAND. 


size of the blocks composing it, partly 
1o the protection it affords to the ice 
against the action of the sun's rays, 
this forms a ridge seldom less than 50 
or 60 ft. in height, quite shutting out 
the view across the glacier from those 
who approach it on either side. Under 
one of the huge blocks of this moraine 
M. Agassiz, with several scientific 
friends, found shelter in a very rude 
hut, whither they returned for several 
successive seasons while engaged in 
arduous observations upon the glacier, 
and in occasional exploration of the 
neighbouring mountains. This com¬ 
fortless dwelling was rendered uninha¬ 
bitable by the splitting of the great 
block which served as a l’oof, and 
more convenient quarters were after¬ 
wards provided in a solid stone cabin 
with two rooms, called the Pavilion, 
built by M. Dolfuss Ausset on the 
steep N. bank of the glacier. It con¬ 
tains a stove, cupboard, benches and a 
table, with a loft overhead. The chief 
nducement to use it is the beautiful 
view of the glacier and the surround¬ 
ing peaks by moonlight, which is 
gained under favourable circumstances 
The Pavilion is reached by a stiff 
climb up the rocks on the 1. bank in 3 
hrs. from the Grimsel. The first ob¬ 
servations on the motion of glaciers 
possessing the least pretension to accu¬ 
racy were made by Hugi, who noticed 
the effect of the movement in carrying 
downwards remarkable blocks on the 
medial moraine, and measured their dis- 
tancefrom the Abschwungafter a known 
interval. More detailed and accurate 
measurements were subsequently made 
by M. Agassiz. For these and many 
other particulars the reader is referred 
to that author’s Systeme Glaciaire, and 
to Desor’s Excursions et Sejours dans 
les Glaciers. It may be roughly esti¬ 
mated that a block lying on the surface 
of the ice employs from 120 to 150 
years to travel from the Abschwung to 
the foot of P e glacier, a distance of 
about 9,000 yards. Throughout that 
space the heat of summer suffices not 
only to remove the snow that falls on 


the glacier during winter, but to melt 
a certain portion of the surface of the 
ice. Theaverage thickness so removed 
annually may be reckoned at about 7 
ft. When it is remembered that the 
glacier also wastes by its lower surface, 
it may be safely infei’red that the 
thickness of the glacier below the 
Abschwung can scarcely be less than 
1,000 ft. 

On approaching the Abschwung it 
is seen that the natural prolongation 
of the valley containing the main 
glacier is that passing along the N. 
side of the Schreckhora and the Lau- 
teraarhorner. The S. branch—called 
Finsteraar Glacier—enters almost at 
a right angle through an opening 
between the Abschwung and the 
Escherhorn (10,105'). The latter sum¬ 
mit terminates a short but lofty range 
extending NNE. from the Oberaarhurn 
(11,923') through the Grunerhorn 
(11,542') and Scheuchzerhorn (11,463'). 
On reaching the confluence of the 
Finsteraar Glacier the ascending slope 
becomes more rapid, and that glacier 
shows numerous crevasses of no great 
width or difficulty. On reaching the 
neve these are usually completely 
bridged over, and the eye ranges for 
miles over nearly unbroken surfaces 
of snow. After ascending SW. for 
about 1 hr. the view on the rt. hand 
begins to open, and it becomes evident 
that the upper basin of the Finsteraar 
Gl., lying between the two great 
NW. and SE. ranges which culminate 
in the Finsteraarhom and the Schreck- 
horn, is divided longitudinally by a 
thii’d and much lower ridge parallel to 
the others. This is called the Mittel- 
grat, or Strahlgrat, and consists of 
steep and rugged crags without any 
remarkable projecting peak. Its high¬ 
est point attains 11,424 ft. The N W. 
end of the Mittelgrat is united to the 
Schreckhora range by a transverse 
l’idge over which lies the Strahleck 
Pass. It was long supposed that the 
Mittelgrat was united in a similar 
manner to the i*ange of the Finsteraar- 
horn, and it is so represented on many 





ROUTE K.—STRAHLECK PASS. 


115 


maps, but this (as is shown in the no¬ 
tice of the Finsteraar Joch) is an error. 

There are few more striking objects 
in the Alps than the peak of the 
Finsteraarhorn as seen rising in abrupt 
and stern grandeur from the nearly 
level surface of the glacier. This 
view is probably still better seen by 
the rival route next to be described. 
The narrow and wild snow-valley 
leading up to the Strahleck Pass re¬ 
tains the name Schreckjim originally 
given to it by Hugi. On approaching 
the pass, the snow-covered ridge closing 
the valley appears so formidably steep 
to the eye of a traveller not used to 
similar ascents, that he involuntarily 
looks to the steep rocks on his left in 
the expectation of discovering some 
easier exit. It is not impossible to 
mount on that side; but the ascent is 
more difficult, and much time is lost by 
it. A gradually-increasing slope leads 
up to the bergschrund which guards 
the base of the well-known ice-wall 
of the Strahleck. That term is not 
quite correctly applied to this slope 
It sometimes happens that snow lying 
on an inclined plane exposed to the 
sun becomes so altered in structure, 
owing to the repeated melting and 
freezing of the surface, as to acquire 
a thick crust of ice requiring several 
blows of the axe to cut steps. But the 
SE. face of the Strahleck is rarely, if 
ever, in this condition; the snow is 
commonly iu the state of neve, often 
soft enough to make it possible to kick 
steps into its steep face. 

The earlier explorers of this district 
use language which gives a rather ex¬ 
aggerated impression of the steepness 
of the slope. The writer does not 
believe that it anywhere exceeds 48°, 
which is about the pitch of a good 
old-fashioned roof. The height of the 
ridge is about 800 ft., aud about two- 
thirds of the way up a rib of rocks juts 
out here and there from the surface of 
the snow, and affords firm footing; the 
inclination soon becomes more gentle, 
and the summit of the Strahleck Pass 
H 0,994 ft. in height, according to the 

I 


latest measurements) is attained in from 
7 to 7b hrs. from the Hospice, exclusive 
of halts. It lies immediately at the 
base of a great buttress of the Schreck- 
horn. overlooking the basin of the 
(irindelwald Glacier. The view is all 
but exclusively confined to the sur¬ 
rounding glaciers and peaks, including 
but a mere glimpse of the lower country 
towards the L. of Thun. The descent 
is somewhat less rapid than on the 
other side, yet steep enough to require 
caution, and the rope should on no 
account be laid aside until the traveller 
is clear of the neve. Some consider¬ 
able crevasses, usually well bridged 
over, intersect the slope. 

After accomplishing the first and 
steepest part of the descent, the course 
lies to the 1. by the extreme eastern 
branch of the Lower Grindelwald 
Glacier. The Kastenstein Glacier is now 
seen descending from the Schreck- 
horn, whose precipices, too steep for 
snow to cling to them, tower upw ards 
in the background. Travellers join 
the main stream of the glacier at a 
point below the highest ice-fall de¬ 
scending from the Finsteraar Joch, 
and above a second ice-fall where it 
forces its way down between the base 
of the Viescherhorner to the S., and a 
projecting buttress from the Schreck- 
horn range to the N. There is here 
a choice between two routes. The 
more direct way is by the rocks 
on the rt. bank. This involves the 
descent of a very steep ledge of rock, 
difficult only because, when approached 
from above, it is impossible to see 
the clefts that give good holding for 
both feet and hands. A more se¬ 
rious obstacle arises late in the season, 
when, at a point lower down, it be¬ 
comes necessary to return to the ice, 
and the glacier is found to have shrunk 
below its usual level, leaving a very 
steep and slippery wall of rock. (See 
‘ Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,' first 
series.) At such seasons it is a better 
plan to cross the glacier higher up, 
and descend by the rocks on the 1. 
bank, which are decidedly less diffi- 
2 



116 


BERNESE ALPS. § 24. BERNESE OBERLAND. 


cult. When the level of the glacier 
below the middle ice-fall has been at¬ 
tained, the difficulties of the expedition 
are over. Passing by the Banist-gg 
chalet on the rt. bank, the remainder 
of the descent lies by the ordinary 
track frequented by the tourists from 
Grindelwald who visit the so-called 
Eis-meer. (See Rte. B.) From 5 to 
54 hrs., exclusive of halts, are re¬ 
quired for the descent from the sum¬ 
mit of the pass to the village. 

The Ascent of the Schreckhorn 
(13.394') is one of the most laborious 
hitherto effected, and can be under¬ 
taken only by practised cragsmen. The 
first ascent was effected by an un¬ 
usually long climb up very steep rocks. 
This involves no positive risk, unless 
it be the necessity of passing spots 
where disintegrated fragments of rock 
fall from time to time down the face 
of the precipice. It is well known to 
all travellers that the peak is one of 
the boldest and most forbidding in 
aspect among the summits of the Alps. 
On three sides the rocks are so steep 
as to be almost completely bare of snow; 
the N. slope towards the Lauteraar 
Joch alone shows a long slope of snow 
lying at the highest possible angle, and 
in such a condition that the slightest 
disturbance is apt to cause avalanches. 
The summit is a crescent - shaped 
ridge about 400 yards in length, convex 
towards the E., with the highest peak 
at the N. end, the projecting point at 
the S. extremity, called Gross Lauter- 
aarhorn by the Hasli guides, and 
Desorhorn by others, being 91 ft. 
lower than the other. The latter 
was reached in 1842 by MM. Desor, 
Escher v. der Linth, and Girard, with 
five guides. The ascent was made by 
the second lateral glacier—that nearest 
to the Schreckhorn—passed on the right 
hand in the ascent from the Abschwung 
to the Strahleck, and the descent by the 
sleep rocks on the rt. bank of the same 
lateral glacier. The rocks on that side 
appear to be less steep than the S W. face; 
but a gap in the arete near the top, in¬ 
volving a sheer descent of about 10 ft., | 


; is somewhat troublesome. The arete 
appeared so perilously narrow that the 
first explorers renounced the attempt to 
reach the higher peak, but this has been 
accomplished in subsequent expeditions. 
An attempt to reach the highest peak 
from the N. side, recounted by Mr. 
Anderson in the first series of ‘ Peaks, 
Passes, and Glaciers,’ encountered for¬ 
midable obstacles. After a narrow 
escape from being swept into a berg- 
schrund by a snow'-avalanche, that 
gentleman and his guides reached the 
peak of the Lesser Schreckhorn, lying 
between the greater peak and the Met- 
tenberg. In the second series of the 
same work Mr. Leslie Stephen lias 
given an account of the first ascent of 
the highest peak, effected by himself 
in 1861, -with Christian and Peter 
Michel, and C. Kaufmann, as guides. 
Having passed the preceding night in 
a small cave near the NW. base of the 
Strahleck, they mounted the secondary- 
glacier to the base of the great wall 
which forms the peak. Thenceforward 
the ascent was an arduous piece of 
rock-climbing, lasting without inter¬ 
mission for hrs., chiefly along the 
SE. side of a narrow and very steep 
gorge, or furrow in the face of the pre¬ 
cipice. In this way the highest ridge 
was gained at a point very near the 
actual summit, which is a small but 
level platform of rock. Owing to the 
extreme steepness of the rocks, the de¬ 
scent occupied very neariy the same 
time as the ascent; and nothing can 
better show the arduous character of 
the ascent than the fact that so active 
a mountaineer as Mr. Stephen should 
have employed 15 hrs., with little ces¬ 
sation save one hour passed on the 
summit, in going and returning from 
the cave—probably the same called 
Kastenstein by the Grindelwald guides. 
It appears that more than one such 
cave, near the foot of the Strahleck, 
is occasionally made use of as a sleep¬ 
ing-place by guides or chamois-hunt¬ 
ers. The second ascent in 1864 was 
made by MM. Fellenberg, Aebi, and 
I Gerwer. They employed 16 hrs. in 





ROUTE K.—THE FINSTERAAR JOCH. 


117 


going from and returning to the station 
chosen for their bivouac. 

2. By the Finsteraar Jack. —Before 
the completion of the Swiss Federal 
Map, it was generally supposed that 
the ridge of the Mittelgrat, which di¬ 
vides longitudinally the upper basin of 
the Finsteraar Glacier, was connected 
by a transverse ridge with the Finster- 
aarhorn, as it undoubtedly is with the 
Schreckhorn. The view from the 
summit of the Strahleck is too limited 
to settle the question; but the few 
travellers who reached the peaks over¬ 
looking the Finsteraar Glacier per¬ 
ceived that it was not separated by any 
rocky barrier from the Lower Grindel- 
wald Glacier. 

Tradition asserts the early existence 
of a pass in this direction, connecting 
the Grimsel with Grindelwald; and 
some of the more experienced guides 
asserted that it lay altogether over 
glacier by the S. side of the Mittelgrat; 
while others believed that it was carried 
across the latter ridge, SF. of the pre¬ 
sent Strahleck Pass. The doubts on 
this subject were not set to rest until 
the summer of 1862, when Mr. H. B. 
George effected, with Christian Aimer, 
the passage over what he has called 
Finsteraar Joch. and proved the fact 
that the Lower Grindelwald and 
Finsteraar Glaciers originate in one 
and the same plateau of neve which 
forms the summit of this pass. 

Not knowing what amount of diffi¬ 
culties they might encounter, the 
above-named traveller and his guide 
slept at the Kastenstein cave, and 
started at 5 a.m. on the following morn¬ 
ing. At the point where, in going to 
the Strahleck, it is necessary to turn to 
the 1., they went straight on towards 
the upper ice-fall. This is, however, 
so much broken up by crevasses, that 
it was found expedient to continue the 
ascent along the steep slope of the 
Mittelgrat or Strahlgrat. About 1 hr. 
was expended in climbing one of the 
rocky ribs that rise from the rt. bank 
of the ice-fall. Bearing to the rt., or 
SE., they next crossed a secondary gla¬ 


cier, and then another sharp ridge of 
rock, whence an awkward scramble 
led them to a snow-slope that falls on 
the rt. towards the head of the glacier. 
They were here ‘ on a level with the 
head of the ice-fall, but distant from it 
by an hour’s diagonal march along the 
face of the slope that rose pretty steeply 
on the left.’ The plateau which forms 
the common source of the two glaciers 
was reached in 4b hrs. from the Kas¬ 
tenstein. ‘ The first part of the descent 
is very easy, skirting closely the end 
of the Strahlgrat; but after some little 
distance it is necessary to cross the 
glacier, and then round the lower ice- 
fall very close under the Finsteraarhorn. 
About this place of crossing the cre¬ 
vasses are rather troublesome, but 
nothing to perplex a good guide ; and 
the whole descent on to the familiar 
part of the Finsteraar Glacier only 
occupied 1 hr. 20 m.’—[H. B. G.J 

The new pass usually requires rather 
more time than the Strahleck. As the 
latter is best taken from the E. side, and 
the other in the opposite direction, the 
Finsteraar Joch may be recommended 
to travellers going from Grindelwald 
to the Grimsel. The view of the Fin¬ 
steraarhorn is finer by the new route; 
but the ascent of the ice-wall, and the 
grand view of the Schreckhorn, will al¬ 
ways attract mountaineers to the Strahl¬ 
eck. On 28 Dec., 1866, Messrs. A. W. 
Moore and H. Walker, with three first- 
rate guides, started from Grindelwald, 
crossed the Finsteraar Joch, and re¬ 
turned by the Strahleck, within 22 hrs. 

3. By the Lauteraar Joch .—From 
15 to 17 hrs., exclusive of halts. The 
two preceding passes lead from the 
basin of the lower Grindelwald Glacier 
to that of the Finsteraar. A glance at 
the map shows that a route between 
the Grimsel and Grindelwald, no longer 
in actual distance, must lie on the N. 
side of the Schreckhorn, provided it 
be possible to reach the head of the 
Upper Grindelwald Glacier, and to 
cross the ridge which separates it from 
the Lauteraar branch of the Unteraar 
Glacier. 



118 


BERNESE ALPS. § 24. BERNESE OBERLAND. 


The Ober Grindelwald. Glacier, how¬ 
ever, whether seen from the neigh¬ 
bourhood of the village, from the 
Faulhorn, or from any other com¬ 
manding spot, presents an aspect which 
may well make the boldest mountaineer 
hesitate as to the possibility of attain¬ 
ing the ridge linking the Schreckhorn 
with the Berglistock. The glacier is, 
in truth, an almost continuous ice-fall, 
torn by wide crevasses into toppling 
ridges and pinnacles of ice ; and al¬ 
though in 1868 Mr. G. E. Forster, with 
Hans Baumann, succeeded in forcing 
their way down the glacier from the 
summit to a point below the Gleck- 
stein, this will generally be found 
to cost more time than can be 
spared. When the eye turns from 
the glacier to the mountains on either 
side, with the hope of tracing a 
passage, the prospect is at first sight 
even more discouraging. The preci¬ 
pices of the Wetterhorner on the one 
side, those of the Mettenberg on the 
other, rise in walls of rock so steep, 
and seemingly so unbroken, that it is 
hard to conceive how even a chamois 
could make its way along them. The 
experienced cragsman knows that the 
steepest rocks are almost always 
broken by ravines and gullies, and 
traversed by narrow ledges that give 
foot-hold to the skilful climber ; but if 
it had not happened that the chamois- 
hunters and shepherds of Grindelwald 
had already found and made for them¬ 
selves a path up the more difficult 
part of the ascent, it is probable that 
the pass of the Lauteraar Joch would 
still remain an unsolved problem for 
mountaineers. The practicability of 
traversing the ridge forming the 
actual col was ascertained by the 
guides Bannholzer and Jaun in 1844, 
when they returned by that route to 
the Grimsel, after effecting the ascent 
of the Wetterhorn. The possibility of 
reaching the pass from Grindelwald 
was not established till 1857, when it 
was traversed by Dr. Porges, Capt. 
Campbell, and M. Stern, with Christian 


Aimer and Ulrich Kaufmann as guides. 
It has been since described by Mr. G. 
Studer in the second series of ‘ Berg- 
und Gletscher-Fahrten,’ and by many 
others. 

The pass is usually taken from the 
Grindelwald side, passing the night un¬ 
der some rocks on the SW. side of the 
Wetterhorner. The way is now short¬ 
ened and improved, and though thismust 
always be reckoned as a difficult pass, a 
traveller with a first rate Crindelwald 
guide may quite safely undertake it 
from either side. Siarting from Grin¬ 
delwald, he may sleep at the Pavilion. 
Though lower than the Strahleck, it 
requires more time, and on the whole 
must be counted as more difficult. 
The scenery of the Lauteraar Glacier 
is not equal to that of the Finsteraar ; 
but the passage along the rocks, above 
the Ober-Grindelwald Glacier, must be 
reckoned amongst toe most striking 
expeditions in the Alps. 

The distance from Grindelwald to the 
new hut erected above the Gleckstein 
may be counted as hrs.’ steady 
walking; but as the ascent is steep, 
and some time is required to search 
for firewood on the way, it is advisable 
to start early in the afternoon. A 
porter should be taken to carry the 
needful wraps for the night, with other 
necessaries. He can return with these 
to Grindelwald on the following 
morning. After passing the base of 
the Upper Glacier by the usual path 
leading to the Great Scheidegg, a track 
turns to the rt. up the grass-grown 
slopes below the rocks which form the 
base of the Wetterhorn range. This 
soon becomes a mere goafs path. After 
a stiff climb up the lower slopes, the 
way lies along a narrow ledge called 
the Enge, on the face of a limestone 
precipice. This comes to an end on 
the projecting ridge forming the angle 
between the N. and W. faces of the 
mountain, where a small plateau in¬ 
vites the ti’aveller to halt after 2| hrs. * 
walk from his starting-point. The 
view, extending on the one side over 








ROUTE K.—OBER GRINDENWALD GLACIER. 


119 


the Talley of Grindelwald, on the other 
to the precipices of the Mettenberg 
and the Little Schreckhorn, with the 
glacier lying at a great depth below 
him, riven by countless chasms into 
shattered masses of ice, is already ex¬ 
tremely grand. This being the limit 
of tree vegetation, the guides lay in a 
store of firewood for use at the bivouac 
higher up. On looking to the 1. in the 
direction whither the ascent must be 
continued, it is impossible to guess how 
the vertical precipices that descend 
from the Wetterhorn towards the 
glacier can give a passage to human 
toot. The faintly-marked track is 
carried along steep slopes beneath an 
upper ledge of vertical rocks. After 
crossing a torrent descending from 
some upper shelf of glacier, a steep 
slope of slippery rock is made passable 
by slight notches cut in the surface by 
a chamois-hunter, who once made this 
his favourite resort. On attaining the 
Schonenbuhl, a small green terrace 
perched on a ledge of the mountain 
which commands a wonderfully fine 
view of the upper ice-fall, the travel¬ 
ler's doubts are solved by the opening 
of a narrow and steep ravine on the 
left, down which fa 1 Is in a succession 
of cascades a brawling torrent from the 
masses of glacier that crown the rocks 
overhead. The somewhat troublesome 
and circuitous climb, hitherto necessary 
to reach the upper terrace of the moun¬ 
tain, will hereafter be avoided by lad¬ 
ders fixed against the vertical rock, by 
which the traveller may in 15 or 20 
min. attain a small shelf of alpine 
pasture, surrounded on all sides bv 
precipices, where some sheep are led 
every summer, and left without human 
care to pick up a subsistence. Here is 
the place of shelter called the Gleck- 
slei/t, formed by two huge blocks 
which have fallen together, whither 
the hunters and few travellers who 
pass this way have resorted for shelter 
for the night. A small hut, built a 
little higher up than the Gleckstein, 
will henceforward supply travellers 
with better protection from the weather. 


It is advisable to start the next morn¬ 
ing as soon as daylight makes it safe to 
do so. 

The next step in the ascent is to 
attain a plateau of glacier that lies on 
the shelf of the mountain above the 
precipices. The climb is steep and 
pathless, but not difficult. In about 
20 min. from the Gleckstein the upper 
glacier is attained at a point where it 
is nearly level. It appears from the 
testimony of guides, and the accounts 
of the above-named travellers, that the 
upper basin of the glacier has under¬ 
gone eonsideiable changes within the 
last few years. While no very serious 
obstacles have been encountered, there 
is enough of difficulty to require the 
aid of an experienced guide. The 
course now commonly followed is to 
ascend a rather long and steep ice- 
slope, lying to the left, which takes 
about 1 hr. when the neve is hard 
frozen. At the summit the course to 
the Lauteraarjoch lies to the rt., with¬ 
out much further ascent, while by 
bearing to the 1. the couloir (mentioned 
below) is reached, which serves for the 
ascent of the Wetterhorn. On attain¬ 
ing the upper level of the neve, the 
most striking object in view is the 
peak of the Schreckhorn, to the rt. 
of which is the Lesser Schreckhorn 
(11,473'), first ascended from this side 
in 1857 by Mr. Anderson, after being 
repulsed by avalanches from an at¬ 
tempt on the greater peak. Nearer 
at hand is the Berglistock , which, ac¬ 
cording to recent measurements, attains 
1 1,998 ft. Its outline is iess bold than 
that of the neighbouring summits, but 
it shows on this side a range of steep 
crags. The summit has been reached 
without much difficulty in 2 hrs. from 
the top of the pass. The view is 
very interesting, as it is the central 
point from whence radiate four great 
glaciers — those of the Lauteraar, 
Ober Grindelwald, Gauli, and Ro- 
senlaui. The Schreckhorn and the 
Berglistock are connected by a low 
dyke, or rocky ridge, in great 
part covered with snow, forming the 





120 


BERNESE ALPS. § 24. BERNESE OBERLAND. 


Lauteraar Joch. The lowest point in 
this ridge, 10,354 ft. in height, lies 
some way to the right, and is difficult, 
if not impossible, of access, owing to 
the crevassed condition of the glacier. 
The passage is effected at a point 
nearer to the Berglistock, the exact 
height of which does not seem to have 
been measured, but G. Studer's esti¬ 
mate of 3/250 metres, or 10,G63 ft., is 
probably not far from the truth. 

Though the ridge dividing the two 
glaciers rises but about 150 ft. above 
the level of the neve on either side, it 
is so steep as to present some difficulty, 
especially in the descent to the Lau¬ 
teraar G1 , where its base is sometimes 
defended by a bergschrund. 

The summit of the pass was reached 
in about 6| hrs. from the sleeping- 
place in both the earlier ascents ; but 
from 4 to 5 hrs. suffice when the snow 
is in good condition. The descent, by 
rocks that become gradually steeper as 
they approach the glacier, is always 
steep, and becomes very difficult late in 
the season when the glacier has subsi¬ 
ded. When the neve of the Lauteraar 
has been attained, the difficulties of the 
pass are over; but a long stretch of 
glacier remains to be traversed, and 
from 6 to 7 hrs. must be allowed for 
the descent to the Grimsel. The upper 
end of the Lauteraar Glacier is much 
crevassed, but the difficulties are 
avoided by bearing to the 1., and in the 
steepest part a bare stony slope on 
that bank facilitates the descent. In 
about 2£ hrs. the junction of the Lau¬ 
teraar and Finsteraar branches of the 
glacier is reached opposite the Ab- 
schwung, where this route joins that of 
the Strahleck. Those who ci’oss the 
Lauteraar Joch in fine weather may 
well halt at the Pavilion on the 1. bank 
of the glacier, and return on the follow¬ 
ing day to Grindelwald by the Strahleck, 
thus enjoying with a very moderate 
amount of labour a continued succes¬ 
sion of grand scenery, such as can 
scarcely be equalled elsewhere in the 
Alps. 

Ascent of the Wetterhiirner .—The 


three peaks collectively called Wetter- 
hiirner , being most commonly ap¬ 
proached from the Gleckstein sleeping- 
place, used in the passage of the Lau¬ 
teraar Joch. may best be described in 
connection with that pass. The well- 
known summit, 12,149 ft in height, 
commonly called Wetterhorn, also 
known in the neighbourhood of Meyrin- 
gen as the Has/i Jungfrau , is crowned 
by that beautifully sharp snow pyramid 
which is so conspicuous in most of the 
views of the Bernese Alps. This outer 
or NW. peak is succeeded by the 
Mittelhorn (12,166'); although a few ft. 
higher than its neighbours, it is con¬ 
cealed by them from most points of 
view. The SE. summit is the Rosen - 
horn (12,107'). The two last-named 
peaks rise out of a plateau, aptly called 
by M. Roth Wettereismeer, which ex¬ 
tends eastward to the Renferhorn, 
feeding on one side the Gauli Glacier, 
while its chief outflow goes to the 
Rosenlaui Glacier. The col between 
the Wetterhorn proper and the Mittel¬ 
horn, which may be called Wetter 
Joch, overlooks the neve of the Ober 
Schwarzwald Glacier, which is cut off 
from the Wettereismeer by a ridge 
connecting the Mittelhorn with the 
Wellhorn. This ridge has been crossed 
without difficulty near the base of the 
Mittelhorn, in ascending the Wetter¬ 
horn from Rosenlaui. 

The Rosenhorn was ascended in 
1844 by M. Desor, the first traveller 
who has given a correct account of 
this portion of the range, with two 
companions and several guides. The 
outer peak appears to have been 
reached in 1843 by MM. Agassiz, 
Bovet, and Vogt, with the guides 
Jaun and Bannholzer, and again by 
the same guides in the following year; 
but doubts as to the accessibility of the 
Wetterhorn proper continued to exist 
until they were finally removed by Mr. 
A. Wills, who has given a very inte¬ 
resting account of his ascent in his 
‘ Wanderings among the High Alps.’ 

Starring from Grindelwald with 
Ulrich Lauener, Auguste Balmat, and 





ROUTE L. —THE URBACHTHAL. 


121 


another guide, he slept at the Gleckstein, 
and thence mounted by a steep but 
not difficult rocky slope to the col or 
depression between the middle and 
the outer peak, for which we have pro¬ 
posed the designation Wetter Joch. 
The summit of the Wetterhorn rises 
little more than 800 ft. above this col. 
but the slope is so extremely steep that 
from 1 to 2 hours must be allowed for 
the ascent, according to the condition 
of the snow. The slope increases from 
about 50° to 58° towards the summit. 
This consists of a perilously sharp 
crest of frozen snow, running for a 
short distance N. and S., which, when 
reached by Mr. Wills, was topped by 
an overhanging cornice of ice that had 
to be cleft by the powerful ami of 
Ulrich Lauener. It is only by level¬ 
ling the summit with the axe that 
space enough for a seat can be found 
on this dizzy eminence. The view 
downward upon the Great Scheidegg 
and the green slopes leading to Grin- 
delwald is almost unique of its kind. 
The Wettereismeer to the East, and 
the Upper Grindelwald Glacier to the 
S. and W., are seen backed by many a 
snowy peak, but the most remarkable 
object is that ‘ grimmest fiend of the 
Oberland’- the Schreckhorn. To the 
NE., between the summit and the 
Wellhorn, is the Upper Schwarzwald 
Glacier, which from time to time rolls 
down its toppling masses of ice to 
startle the tourists on their way from 
Rosenlaui to the Great Scheidegg. 

The ascent has been frequently re¬ 
peated from the side of Grindelwald. 
In some states of the snow it seems 
better to ascend to the plateau by a 
couloir lying some way SE. of the 
way by the rocks usually chosen. In 
1860, Dr. Roth, of Berne, with the 
three brothers Blatter, of Meyringen, 
reached the summit from Rosenlaui, by 
way of the Rosenlaui Glacier and the 
Wettereismeer. As there is some real 
danger in descending the steep ice-slope 
of the Rosenlaui Glacier in the after¬ 
noon (see Rte. L), those who ascend 
that way should descend to Grindelwald 


or to the Urner Alp, avoiding the dan¬ 
gerous spot in the ascent from Rosen¬ 
laui. The editor is assured by the Rev. 
A. G. Girdlestone, who has ascended 
both ways without guides, that the 
easiest, though not the most interest¬ 
ing, way to the Wetterhorn is by the 
Gauli Glacier, sleeping at the Urner 
Alp (Rte. M). 

In 1868, Mr. Morshead, with Chr. 
Aimer and his son, ascended direct 
from the Scheidegg track to a notch in 
the Wetterhorn ridge seen from below, 
and attained the summit in little more 
than 6 hrs. from Grindelwald. The 
grass slopes are so steep that it was 
thought unsafe to return the same way. 

The Mittelhorn and Rosenhorn are 
both easier of access than the outer 
Wetterhorn; but as the view is less 
interesting, they are rarely ascended. 
The outer summit is formed of lime¬ 
stone, and the limit between this and 
the gneiss forming the inner peaks lies 
in the snow-covered depression between 
them. 


Route L. 

ROSENLAUI TO MEYRINGEN, BY THE 

URBACHTHAL AND WE1TSATTEL. 

10 to 11 hrs., exclusive of halts. 

Of the many travellers who con¬ 
stantly traverse the valley of Hasli 
between Meyringen and the Grimsel 
(Rte. B), very few are aware that the 
stream descending from the SW. 
through a comparatively narrow open¬ 
ing into the basin of Im Grund, drains a 
considerable valley, abounding in grand 
scenery, whose upper end is occupied by 
an extensive glacier. 

The Urbachthal, as this secluded 
valley is called, deserves far more at¬ 
tention than it has yet received, and 
adventurous mountaineers will find 
quite enough of excitement in the 
passes indicated in this and the follow¬ 
ing rtes. The first traveller known to 







122 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§ 21. BERNESE OBERLAND. 


have visited the valley was Hugi, fol¬ 
lowed by M. Desor and his companions 
in 1844. More recently, several Eng¬ 
lish mountaineers have traversed the 
Gauli Pass (Rte. N), lying at the head 
of the Gault Glacier, as well as the 
Weitsattel Pass here noticed. 

As the pass here pointed out is 
sometimes difficult on the N. side, and 
the distance rather considerable, it is a 
better plan to take it from Rosenlaui 
than from the Haslithal If the oppo 
site course be preferred, it is advisable 
to sleep at Hof (Rte. C), which is fully 
1 hr. nearer than Meyringen. The 
way is known to several of the Grin- 
delwald guides, and to H. Kohler and 
Hans Schilt, who are both good Rosen¬ 
laui guides. The scenery of the Ur- 
bachthal, as the traveller passes beneath 
the precipices of the Hangendhorn and 
the tine peaks of the Rizlihorn, is of 
the grandest character. 

The Rosenlaui Glacier descends from 
the Wettereismeer (Rte. K), at first 
NE., bending at its lower end nearly 
due N. between the ridge terminating 
in the well-known peak of the Well- 
horn on the W., and a much longer 
range to the E., whose chief summits ' 
are the Engelhorner (whose S. peak 
is the Stellihorn), Tossenhorn, Ren- 
ferhorn, and Berglistock. The interval 
between the two last-named peaks forms 
part of the plateau of the Wettereis¬ 
meer, and seems to be easily accessible 
from the head of the Gauli Glacier. 
But to reach the Urbachthal by that 
route from Rosenlaui would involve a 
long detour. A much shorter, though 
not very easy, way is found by cioasmg 
the ridge between the Stellihorn and 
the Tossenhorn. The very steep rocks 
of the Engelhorner, both on the side of 
Rosenlaui and that of the Urbachthal, 
are ill-famed in this district for the 
accidents with which they are charged. 
Many a chamois-hunter and herdsman 
is said to have lost his life on their 
precipitous slopes. Whether on this 
account, or, as some sav, because the 
spot has become more difficult owing 
to avalanches, the guides of late years 


have refused to lead travellers by the 
Bose Tritt, which afforded a direct way 
to the summit of the ridge by the rocky 
slopes above the rt. bank of the Rosen - 
laui Glacier. In reaching the pass by 
way of the Glacier, another form of 
risk preseuts itself in the shape of 
detached blocks of stone that come 
bounding down an ice-slope, as men¬ 
tioned in the last rte. The danger is 
much lessened by a very early start 
from Rosenlaui, and may be further 
diminished by a judicious choice of 
route over the glacier. A steep 
ascent of 1 hr. by the slopes above 
the rt. bank enables the traveller to 
surmount the lowest ice-fall. An¬ 
other hr., partly on the ice, partly on 
moraine, leads to the base of a pro¬ 
jecting buttress of the Stellihorn which 
encounters the middle ice-fall. To 
turn this obstacle requires ^ hr. of 
rather troublesome ice-work, and then 
an ascent of ^ hr. leads to the base of 
a range of rocks seamed with snow, 
high and steep enough to be exciting. 
There are not many passes of such 
moderate height so difficult as this. 

The Weitsattel , 8,362 ft. in height, 
according to Mr. Jacomb’s observa¬ 
tions, is reached in from 3 to 4 hrs. 
from Rosenlaui. The small Renfen Gla¬ 
cier descends eastward trom a hollow 
between the Tossenhorn and Renfer- 
horn ; and on its southern side the Han¬ 
gendhorn projects to the E. and se¬ 
parates it from the vast stream of the 
Gauli Glacier. In less than an hour the 
traveller descends from the Weitsattel 
to the Jowardli Alp,the highest chalet 
in this part of the Urbachthal. The 
best course from hence is apparently 
to descend directly to the level of the 
Urbach torrent, flowing from the 
Gauli Glacier, which is crossed oppo¬ 
site to the Schrdttern Alp (4,473'— 
F. W. J.), the chief group of chalets in 
the upper part of the Urbachthal. A 
beaten track leads thence along the 
right bank of the valley to the hamlet 
of Ilmenstein, lying in the flat plain, 
bounded abruptly by steep mountains, 
that occupies the lower end of the 






ROUTE M.—THE BERGLI JOCH. 


123 


valley. Crossing to the left bank, the 
path leads to a point where it overlooks 
the green basin of Im Grund. The 
traveller bound for Hof may descend 
directly into the valley; another track 
bears to the 1., leading to the Kirchet, 
and to Reichenbach or Meyringen. 
In descending from the Weitsattel, the 
traveller who intends to cross either of 
the passes described in the next rtes. 
should not descend to the Schrattern 
Alp. After passing below the end of 
the Renfen Glacier, a path bearing to 
the rt. along a buttress of the Hangend- 
horn joins that leading to the Urner 
Alp, noticed in next Rte. 


Route M. 

MEYRINGEN TO GRINDELWALD, BY 
THE BERGLI JOCH. 

18 to 19 hrs„ exclusive of halts. 

The course here pointed out was 
traversed in part by M. Desor and 
his companions in the ascent of the 
Rosenhorn in 1844. The pass from 
the Urbachthal to Grindelwald was, 
however, accomplished for the first 
time in 1863 by Mr. F. W. Jacomb, 
with Christian Michel of Grindelwald, 
and J. Zwalt of Guttanen, as guides. 
In a notice in the Alpine Journal 
(p. 198), Mr. Jacomb has called this 
the Ober Grindelwald Joch; but he 
has since selected the more appro¬ 
priate designation Bergli Joch, which 
is here given to it. As the dis¬ 
tance is decidedly too great for one 
day’s walk, it is advisable to sleep 
at the chalets of the Urner Alp, the 
highest on the 1. bank of the Gauli 
Glacier. These are reached by way 
of the Schrattern Alp (see last Rte.). 
S. of the latter is the end of the Gauli 
Glacier, which descends from the upper 
plateau at the head of the valley in an 


ice-fall, being at the same time bent 
from its direct course by a steep pro¬ 
jecting buttress of the Hangendhorn. 
The best, if not the only, way to reach 
the upper plateau is to cross the 
Urbach opposite the Schrattern Alp, 
and mount by a zig-zag path the 
northern declivity of the above-men¬ 
tioned buttress, joining on the way the 
track leading from the Weitsattel to 
the head of the valley. In If hr. the 
summit of the ascent, marked by three 
piles of stones ( Steinmanner ), is attained, 
and a descent of i hr., in all 6 hrs. 
from Meyringen, leads to the Urner 
Alp (7,023' F. W. J.), where rough 
shelter for the night may be obtained. 

From the chalets the ascent is con¬ 
tinued by the slopes on the W. side of 
the glacier, the correct way being in¬ 
dicated by a pile of stones, or steinmann, 
about i hr. above the Alp. The re¬ 
mainder of the route is thus described 
by Mr. Jacomb:— 

‘ We left the Urner Alp at 5.15 a.m. 
and ascended the slopes of the Hangend¬ 
horn, SW., above the left bank of the 
Gauli Glacier, to a point nearly oppo¬ 
site the Gauli Pass (Rte. N). We 
arrived there at 6.50 a.m., and, after a 
few minutes’ halt in order to take some 
levels, descended to the Glacier, which 
we reached at 7.15 a.m. The am¬ 
phitheatre forming the head of the 
Glacier was guarded (commencing 
from the left hand) by the Schneehorn, 
Berglistock, Rosenhorn, Tossenhom, 
and Hangendhorn. From the known 
position of the Upper Grindelwald Gla¬ 
cier, we conceived it lay on the farther 
side of a snow col, which we could see 
between the Berglistock and the Rosen¬ 
horn ; so we struck straight up the 
Glacier towards it. At 8.15 a.m. we 
halted for the second breakfast under 
a rocky spur of the Hangendhorn. 
Resuming at 8.45 a.m., we passed up 
easy snow-slopes, none of which, as 
measured by my clinometer, exceeded 
40°, and, at 10.45 a.m., reached the 
col. Its height, as deduced from my 
boiling-water apparatus, aneroid and 
a level, is 10,939 feet. In order to 





124 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§ 24 . BERNESE OBERLAND. 


obtain a more extended view, 1 
ascended the Rosenhorn, the summit 
of which is reached in 1 hr. from the 
col. As the inner peak of the Wet- 
terliorner, the position of the Rosenhorn 
commands a wide range of view, 
especially NE. and N.W., in which 
directions the Lakes of Thun, Lun- 
gern, and Lucerne are intermingled 
with chain after chain of mountains. 
To the S., the Schreckhorn forms 
a magnificent object. Returning to 
the col, which may appropriately be 
named Bergli Joch, we left it at 
1.15 p.m. and commenced descend¬ 
ing its farther side on to the head 
of the Upper Grindelwald Glacier. 
In some parts we experienced con¬ 
siderable difficulty, and were glad to 
avail ourselves of a rib of crumbling 
rock which obligingly cropped out at 
intervals. One slope of hard ice 
measured 43° by my clinometer, and 
it occupied us 45 min. in cutting our 
way down it. At 4.10 p.m. we left 
the Glacier, and, at 4.40, joined the 
route from the YVetterhorn at the well- 
known stone used for the night bivouac 
in ascending that mountain. (See Rte. 
K.) After a halt for refreshment, we 
followed the Wetterhorn track and its 
teasing (at the close of a day) rock- 
descent to Grindelwald, where we 
arrived at 9 p.m.’— [F.W. J.] 

In the Alpine Journal Mr. Jacomb 
has proposed the name Mittel Joch 
(11,495'—F.YY.J.) for the Col between 
the Mittelhorn and Rosenhorn, crossed 
(probably for the first time) by Mr. A. 
Whately in 1857. 

Route N. 

MEYHINGEN TO THE GKIMSEL, BY THE 
GAUEI PASS. 

15 hrs., exclusive of halts. 

As this is a very long day’s expedi¬ 
tion. it is best to sleep at Hof, or else at 
some of the chalets in the Urbachthal. 
The entire distance from Meyringen 
was, however, accomplished in one day 
by Professor Tyndall. In taking the 


pass from the Grimsel, from 1 to 2 hrs. 
are gained, owing to the difference 
of level between that station and 
Meyringen. 

For some distance beyond the Urner 
Alp, the way followed is the same as 
that to the Bergli Joch, described in 
the last Rte. After ascending for rather 
less than 1 hr. from the chalets, it is 
expedient to descend to the Gauli 
Glacier, and cross nearly to its oppo¬ 
site bank, below the upper ice-fall, 
descending from the nearly level ridge 
connecting the Berglistock and the 
Schneehorn. The pass lies at the end 
of this ridge nearest the latter moun¬ 
tain. The difficulties of the ascent are 
in great part avoided by keeping near 
the SE. side of the glacier, ascending 
alternately over ice, moraine, and neve, 
till the base of the highest ridge form¬ 
ing the boundary between the Gauli 
and Lauteraar Glaciers is attained. A 
slight indentation to the 1. marks the 
position of the pass. A bergschrund 
sometimes renders the final ascent 
rather difficult. 

The exact position of the Gauli 
Pass ( 1,0743', Schlagintweit; 10,501', 
Jacomb ) is not very well defined, and 
it is clear that travellers have not al¬ 
ways crossed the ridge at the same 
point. The Schneehorn, sometimes 
called Ewigeschneehorn, is close at 
hand, and not more than 500 ft. higher 
than the pass. The summit, which has 
been repeatedly reached, is easy of ac¬ 
cess from the col, and commands a 
wider view, especially towards the E. 
The descent to the Lauteraar Gla¬ 
cier is steep. Some travellers have 
kept to the rocks, others have passed 
by some one of several snow couloirs 
that furrow the precipitous slope. The 
level of the Lauteraar Gl. is reached 
nearly 1 hr. above the Abschwung, or 
from 4 to 4^ hi*s. from the Grimsel. 

The travellers who have sought to 
accomplish a glacier route from the 
Grimsel to Rosenlaui, have all de¬ 
scended from the Gauli Pass to the 
Urner Alp, and then reached the YVeit- 
sattel by the circuitous track noticed 







ROUTE 0.-TIIE OBERAAR JOCII. 


125 


in Rte. L. The Rev. Leslie Stephen, 
probably the only traveller who has 
accomplished the whole distance in a 
single day, pointed out that a shorter 
passage mieht be effected by keeping 
from the Gauli Pass along the snow- 
slopes by the E. side of the Berglistock, 
crossing the ridge between this and the 
Renferhorn, and so reaching the Wet- 
tereismeer. The Hon. R. Noel has 
given, in the ‘ Alpine Journal’for May 
1869, an account of the Renfer Joch, as 
this pass may be called ; but owing to 
the lateness of the season he was unable 
to follow the direct course from Rosen- ; 
laui to the Wettereismeer, or to cross I 
the ridge at the most favourable point, j 
The Rizlihorn (10,774'), the highest 
point in the range dividing the Urbach- 
thal from the Haslithal, is best ascended 
from the former valley. Starting from 
the chfilets of Matten, Mr. Sowerby ; 
reached the top in 5j hrs. by a steep 
but not difficult climb. The view is very 
interesting. 


Route O. 

GRIMSEL TO THE iEGGISCHHORN.—AS¬ 
CENT OF THE OBERAARHORN. 

The pass of the Oberaar Joch, lead¬ 
ing from the Grimsel to Viesch, or the 
iEggischhorn, by the Oberaar and 
Yiesch Glaciers, has been known since 
1842, when it was traversed by M. G. 
Studer and his companions on their 
return to the Grimsel from the ascent 
of the Jungfrau. Two new and more 
difficult passes effected by recent tra¬ 
vellers are noticed below. 

1 .By the Oberaar Joch. —12 to 13 
hrs., exclusive of halts. This pass is 
as often made from the Grimsel as from 
the iEggischhorn, but in the former 
case local knowledge on the part of 
the guides is of essential importance. 
Practised mountaineers will not have 
much difficulty in effecting the ascent 
by the Viesch Glacier, but a party not 


well acquainted with the ground might 
encounter very serious difficulties in 
attempting the descent on the side of 
Viesch. In either case an early start 
is advisable. If the snow be in good 
condition, an active mountaineer may 
find time for the ascent of the Oberaar- 
horn on his way. 

In going from the Grimsel to the 
Oberaar Glacier, some persons follow 
the path to the foot of the Unteraar 
Gl., and then mount the very rough 
path along the Oberaar torrent. This 
may be the best plan for those who 
start before daylight, as the first hour 
is by a comparatively good track, but 
in general the way by the Triibten See, 
on the N. side of the Sidelhom (Rte. 
C), is to be preferred. The ascent of 
the Oberaar Glacier is fi'ee from dif¬ 
ficulty, the crevasses being few and 
easily avoided. They are wider and 
more numerous towards the upper end, 
but usually well bridged over, and with 
the rope there is no difficulty that need 
delay progress, unless it be that the 
snow r often lies deep. The summit of the 
Oberaar Joch (10,624'), a small plateau 
of neve at the very base of the Ober- 
aarhorn, is reached in 5^- or 6 hrs. 
from the Grimsel. Travelling in the 
opposite direction, 4 or 4§ hrs. suffice 
to traverse the same distance. Through¬ 
out the ascent the snowy peak of the 
Oberaarhorn (11,923') is the most con¬ 
spicuous object in view. ‘ The summit 
is easily reached from the top of the 
Oberaar Joch. A uniform snow-slope 
leads straight to the top in about 1^ hr. 
It is a very fine point of view. The 
cliffs of the Finsteraarhorn and the 
Schreckhorn are very grand from this 
point.’ —[L.S.] 

For some distance the descent to¬ 
wards the Viesch Glacier is by a gentle 
slope of neve. To the right is a snow- 
basin enclosed between the Oberaar¬ 
horn, Studerhom, Finsteraarhorn, and 
Rothhorn (11,644'). The latter peak, 
snow-clad on its N. slope, but presenting 
a bold rocky front to the S., divides the 
mein branch of the Viesch Glacier, 
descending from the Viescherhorner 






126 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§ 21 

and the Finsteraarhorn (see Viescher- 
joch, Rte. I), from the lesser branch 
by which the traveller passes from the 
Oberaarjoch. In the narrow strait 
between the Rothhorn and the finder 
Galmi (11,595') the neve is much 
crevassed, and some time is usually 
consumed in seeking a passage. On 
reaching the junction of the two ice- 
streams at the base of the Rothhorn, 
the main channel of the Viesch Glacier 
is easily traversed. According to the 
condition of the ice, the descent is con 
tinued for a longer or shorter distance 
by the glacier: but it almost always 
becomes necessary to take to the slopes 
on the rt. bank, where some halt-wild 
sheep are left to pick up a subsistence 
during the summer. At a point im 
mediati ly above the most crevassed 
part of the glacier, the rocks on the rt. 
bank become extremely steep, and it is 
necessary to descend a sort of gully 
which is at the same time the channel 
of a rivulet. This may sometimes be 
avoided by keeping along the glacier. 
A short way below this point, now well 
known to most of the Oberland guides, 
it is usual to return to the glacier just 
above a rather sharp turn of the ice- 
stream, which, after flowing S.W., 
descends nearly due S. to the Viescher- 
tobel, the lower part of its course being 
an impassable ice-fall. At the bend of 
the glacier travellers sometimes cross 
to the E. bank, and descend some way 
by the grass slopes on that side, re¬ 
turning immediately to the opposite 
bank near the chalets of Stock. Here 
three paths present themselves to the 
traveller. One ascends rapidly on the 
rt. to the Miirjelen Hiitten (te. P); 
another is carried down along the ice- 
fall, and leads to Viesch by a rather 
long and fatiguing descent of more 
than 3,000 ft. Between these two 
tracks is an intermediate path leading 
directly to the hotel, along the E. slopes 
of the iEggischhorn—about 7 hrs. from 
the col—but it is soill-markedthat those 
who attempt to find their way after 
night-fall usually go astray. On this 
account, travellers do well to start very 


1. BERNESE OBERLAND. 

early when they make this pass from 
the Grimsel. 

2 . By the Studer Jack. —14 to 15 
hrs., exclusive of halts. 

This difficult pass was planned by 
Mr. Macdonald, and traversed in August 
1863 by that gentleman, with Messrs. 
E. Buxton, Grove, and W. E. Hall, with 
Melchior Anderegg and Peter Perm 
as guides. The distance may be 
shortened by fully 2 hrs. by sleeping 
at the Pavilion on the Aar Glacier 
instead of the Grimsel. The pass lies 
between the Oberaarhorn and the 
equally high summit of the Studrrhorn 
(11,916'), but close under the latter. 
The name was given by M. Agassiz to 
the principal peak in the ridge connect¬ 
ing the Oberaarhorn and Finsteraar¬ 
horn, in honour of Prof. B. Studer, the 
eminent Swiss geologist. The associa¬ 
tion of the same name with this pass 
will also serve to recall the labours of 
M. G. Studer, so highly appreciated by 
all Alpine travellers. 

The following notes are by Mr W. E. 
Hall:—‘ We started from the Grimsel 
at 3.15 a.m., and followed the Strahleck 
route to where two glaciers debouch 
from the east into that of the Fin- 
steraar, the one coming down from the 
Oberaarhorn, the other from the ridge 
between that mountain and the Studer- 
horn. Bending to the left, we kept up 
the more westerly branch of the latter, 
and mounted a very steep snow-slope 
to near the crest, where the inclina¬ 
tion becomes so great that the snow 
breaks into very intricate cliffs. In 
passing these we found considerable 
difficulties. The summit of the pass 
is a snow-slope curving over rocks 
that fall towards the upper neve of the 
Viesch Glacier. Immediately below 
the pass these are quite impracticable, 
but about 300 yds. to the E. the snow 
of the upper level falls through a 
couloir nearly meeting the neve of the 
Upper Viesch G!., which rises into a 
recess at the base of the rocks. The 
rocks between the base of the upper 
snow-couloir and the neve below were, 
however, so difficult that an hour was 







ROUTE P.-THE ENTLEBUCH. 


127 


consumed in the descent. A short way 
below the base of the rocks the route of 
the Oberaarjoch was joined on the W. 
side of the pass.’—[W. E. H.] This is 
a very fine pass, but more difficult than 
either the Strahleck or the Oberaarjoch. 

3. By the Unteraar Joch. 15 to 16 hrs. 

This name has been given to a new 
pass effected in 1868 by Mr. A. G. 
Puller, with A. Mennich and Andreas 
Jaun as guides, rather longer, but de¬ 
cidedly easier than the Studer Joch. It 
lies W. of the Studerhorn, and a little 
above the lowest point in the ridge con¬ 
necting that peak with the Finsteraar- 
horn. Descending without much diffi¬ 
culty to the head of the Studerfirn, Mr. 
Puller bore to the right, and easily 
reached the col between the Rothhorn 
andFinsteraarhorn (Bothsattel of Hugi). 
Then traversing the main branch of the 
Viesch Gl., he crossed the Griinhorn 
Liicke (Rte. D), and reached the 2Eg- 
gischhorn by the Aletsch Gl. in 14 hrs., 
excluding halts, from the Pavilion. 


Route P. 

BERNE TO LUCERNE, BY THE ENTLE¬ 
BUCH. 

Post Eng. 

stunden miles 

Langnau (by railway). 6± 19| 

Escholzmatt (by road) 3| Hi 

Entlebuch ... 3 9 

Schacheu ... 3 9 

Lucerne . . • 3* 9f 

19* 58| 

Railway in progress, open to Langnau. Post 
road thence to Lucerne. Diligence daily. 

Having described, in the preceding 
routes, the group of high mountains 
dividing the basin of the Rhone from 
that of the Aar and properly bearing 
the name Bernese Oberland, it seems 
desirable to add a slight notice of the 
mountain country N. of the lakes of 
Thun and Brienz, which is orographi- 
cally connected with the Oberland, 
inasmuch as the ridges seem to repre¬ 
sent the lesser undulations of the great 


disturbances by which the main mass 
has been uplifted. The district tra¬ 
versed by the road here described gives 
the stranger a lively impression of the 
characteristics of the more prosperous 
pastoral districts of Switzerland, where 
the people enjoy a comparative immu¬ 
nity from the effects of storm and ava¬ 
lanche, that render the life of the in¬ 
habitants of the higher valleys one 
continued struggle against these rest¬ 
less enemies of human industry. The 
traces of activity and comfort apparent 
throughout this district, the neatness 
of the houses and the people, and the 
comfortable-looking inns found in al¬ 
most every village, give the assurance 
that a part of the way, at least, may 
pleasantly be travelled on foot. 

The railway, which will ultimately 
form a direct communication between 
Berne and Lucerne, is open only as 
far as Langnau. Three trains daily 
take 1^ hr. to travel less than 20 m. 

The road from Berne leaves that 
leading to Thun on the rt., and tra¬ 
verses Worb> Hochstetten (Inn: Lowe), 
whence a road leads to Thun, about 
12 m. distant, and Siynau (Inn: Bar). 
Soon after the Emme is crossed by a 
bridge which commands a fine view of 
the Bernese Alps, and about 2 m. 
farther is the thriving country town of 

Langnau (Inn: zum Emmenthal; 
Hirsch; both good country inns; 
Lowe), the chief place of the Emmen¬ 
thal , famous for its cheeses, which are 
largely exported to all parts of Europe. 
The Emme rises on the N. side of the 
Brienzergrat and the mountains at the 
head of the Habkerenthal near Inter¬ 
laken. A pedestrian may follow up 
the main branch of the valley to its 
source, cross a low pass to Surenbery 
(neat inn), and take the Brienzer- 
Hothhorn (Rte. A) on his way to 
Brienz, but it is an easier way to reach 
Sbrenberg from Schiipfheim. Beyond 
Langnau the road mounts gently for 
10 m. along the Ilfis, a tributary of the 
Emme, to the boundary of the Cantons 
Berne and Lucerne. At Trubschuchen, 
a path turns off to the 1., leading NW. 





12 $ 


BERNESE ALPS. 


§24 

bv the village of Trub to the Napf a 
mountain 5,194 ft. in height, much 
visited for the sake of the fine view of the 
Bernese and Unterwalden Alps enjoyed 
from the summit. A pedestrian making 
the detour may rejoin the road to 
Lucerne at Schiipfheim or Entlebuch. 
A short way beyond the boundary of 
Lucerne, the road reaches 

Escliolzmatt (Inns: Lowe, good; 
Krone), a large village, the highest in 
the Entlebuch. This name is given to 
the valley of the Kleine Emme, which 
joins the Reuss near Lucerne ; not to 
be confounded with the greater stream 
above mentioned, whose junction with 
the Aar is near Soleure. In few parts of 
Switzerland have the inhabitants so well 
presided their primitive character, 
manners, and customs, as in the Entle¬ 
buch. Schwingfeste, or popular festivi¬ 
ties, wherein take place trials of strength 
and skill in wrestling, &c., are held 
annually on the 29th June, the second 
and fourth Sundays in August, the first 
Sunday in September, Michaelmas day, 
and the Sunday next following, at 
places appointed for the purpose. A 
stranger finding himself in the neigh¬ 
bourhood will do well to visit one of 
these meetings, and thus gain a view 
of Switzerland as it was before the 
age of railways and steamboats. 

About 5 m. below Escholzmatt is 
Schiipfheim (Inns : Kreuz; Adler ; 
Rossli), from whence the summit of 
the Napf (see above) may be reached 
in 3 or 4 hrs. Brienz may also be 
reached in 11 hrs. by Sorenberg and 
the Rothhorn (Rte. A). At the junc¬ 
tion of the Entle torrent with the 
Kleine Emme, stands the picturesque 
village of 

Entlebuch (Inns: zum Port; Drei 
Konige), the prettiest in the valley. 
[A track along the valley of the 
Entle will lead the pedestrian to 
Samen or to Alpnach (§ 25 Rte. A), 
in 6 or 7 hrs.] 

The road to Lucerne follows a cir¬ 
cuitous course round the base of the 
Bramegg (3,645'), a spur from the 
Pilatus range. The pedestrian may 


. BERNESE OBERLAND. 

gain | hr. and a beautiful view of the 
surrounding country, by following a 
rough char road over the low pass 
E. of the summit of the hill, about 
3,281 ft. in height, and descending to 
Schachen by the Baths of Farnbiihl. 
The high road passes Wohlhavsen, 
where it joins the road from Willisau 
to Lucerne, and then turns sharply to 
E., to 

Schachen (Inn : Rossli). A little 
farther on is Makers, where the men 
of Lucerne in 1845 defeated with 
severe loss the free corps under General 
Ochsenbein, in the brief but bloody 
struggle that arose out of the dispute 
as to the forcible expulsion of the 
Jesuits from Switzerland. The road 
passes through a rich and beautiful 
country at the N. base of the Pilatus 
before reaching Lucerne (§ 26, 

Rte. A). 


Route Q. 

INTERLAKEN TO BURGDORF, BY THE 
EMMENTHAL. 

About 24 m. to Langnau, on foot—101 m. by 
post-road thence to Burgdorf. 

This is one of the most agreeable 
ways by which a pedestrian may vary 
his route to or from the Bernese 
Oberland, reaching the Burgdorf sta¬ 
tion on the central Swiss rly. (Rte. A) 
in one day from Interlaken. 

The way lies through the wild and 
rugged valley of Habkeren , noticed in 
Rte. A among the excursions from 
Interlaken. In 2\ hrs. the village of 
that name, where there is a good 
country inn, is reached from Interlaken 
by the new char-road. Here there is 
a choice of routes. A path over the 
E. end of the ridge of the Hohgant 
leads to Bumbach, the highest village 
in the Emmenthal; or by keeping still 
more to the E., and traversing the 



TITLIS DISTRICT. 


129 


ridge at the extreme end of the 
Habkerenthal, the traveller may reach 
Schiipfheim in the Entlebuch (Rte. P), 
by Sorenberg. The shortest way to 
the Emmenthal lies about due N. from 
Habkeren, and crosses the ridge of the 
Griinenberg, reached in 2 hrs. from the 
village. Immediately E. of the pass is 
the double peak of the Holigant, which 
may be reached from thence in 2 hrs. 
A rather steep descent leads from the 
pass down to the Emmenthal, which is 
reached opposite to the village of 
Schangnau. The path along the 1. 
bank of the Emme is followed to the 
Reblock, where the stream has worked 
for itself a subterranean passage through 
the limestone rocks. At Eggiwyl the 
Rbthenbach joins the Emme from the 
W., and a rough hilly road leads to 
Thun by the villages of Rbthenbach 
and Schwarzenegg. About 1 hr. lower 
down, at Horben, the Emmenthal opens 
out, and the char-road from Eggiwyl 
crosses the river. Rather the shortest 
way to Burgdorf is to keep along the 
main stream to Signau (Rte. P), and 
thence to Liizelfluh ; but it is a very 
slight detour to follow the foot-path to 
the rt. leading by Ilfis to Langnau, 
whence a post-carriage starts twice a 
day for the rly. station of Burgdorf, 
passing by Riiderswyl and Lutzelhuh. 


SECTION 25 . 

TITLIS DISTRICT. 

It is impossible to complete the de¬ 
scription of the Bernese Alps without 
taking account of the group of snowy 
Alps lying E. of the valley of Hasli, 


and dividing the head waters of the 
Aar from those of the Reuss. The 
mountain mass included in that defini¬ 
tion is subdivided into three smaller 
groups by two lines of valley traversed 
by the paths leading to the Surenen 
and Susten passes; but it is on the 
whole more nearly connected with the 
Bernese chain than with the ranges on 
the E. side of the Reuss. The main 
group, a complex mass including four 
considerable ridges, attains its greatest 
height in the Winterberg and the Ga- 
lenstock. Better known to ordinary 
travellers is the less lofty group whose 
highest peak is the Titlis, and ac¬ 
cordingly this has been chosen to 
give its name to the present Section. 
Orographically the group of moun¬ 
tains culminating in the Blackenstock 
and the Uri Rothstock, and forming 
the southern shore of the Lake of Lu¬ 
cerne, should be included in this 
section; but it has appeared more con¬ 
venient to describe these along with 
the Surenen Pass in § 26. 

The boundaries of this district thus 
limited are the valley of Hasli, the 
Briinig Pass, and the valley of Sarnen, 
the valley of Engelberg and the Su¬ 
renen Pass, and the valley of the 
Reuss from near Altdorf to the Furka. 

The principal group includes four 
nearly parallel ridges running NNW. 
and SSE. That forming the E. 
boundary of the valley of Hasli reaches 
11,155 ft. in the Thieralplistock, whence 
it extends NNW. to the Mahrenhorn 
(9,593'), and S. to the Gerstenhorner 
(10,450'). A wide reservoir of neve 
whence the Trift Glacier flows to the 
N. and the Rhone Gl. to the S., divides 
this range from the more easterly range 
whose central mass is known as the 
Winterberg. As conjectured in the first 
edition of this work, the highest point 
of the Winterberg. now called Damnia - 
stock (11,920'), is the culminating point 
of this region, rather than the Galen- 
stock (11,798') which forms its southern 
extremity. N. of the Winterberg the 
range collectively known as the Thier- 
berg , attains 1J ,306 ft. Farther east 


PAKT II. 


K 








130 


BERNESE ALPS. § 25. TITLIS DISTRICT. 


than the last is the Sustenhorn range, 
rising at its highest point to 11,529 ft.,, 
divided from the last by the Stein Gla¬ 
cier and the upper part of the Ges- 
chenenthal. Lastly, another ridge still 
farther east is separated from the last 
by the Yoralpthal, a branch of the 
Gescbenentbal. Its highest summits 
are the Spitzliberg (11,214') and the 
Voralpstock (10,574'). There are plain 
indications of the existence of a trans¬ 
verse range extending ENE. from 
the Miihrenhorn to the Stucklistock 
(10,528'), and the lower part of the 
Geschenenthal, is bounded on the S. by 
a nearly parallel range diverging from 
the ridge between the Winterberg and 
the Galenstock. 

The fine scenery of this district has 
only of late attracted much attention 
from English travellers, but more than 
20 years have elapsed since M. G. 
Studerdrew attention to it in his ‘ Topo- 
graphische Mittheilungen,’ frequently 
cited in the last section. Much addi¬ 
tional information is found in Yol 2 of 
the Jahrbuch of the Swiss Alpine 
Club. Good quarters are found by the 
mountaineer at the Stein Alp and the 
Engstlen Alp, and some excursions 
may be made from Hof or Guttanen in 
the Haslithal. The ascent of the Ga¬ 
lenstock is most easily made from the 
inn at the foot of the Rhone Glacier, 
but is also practicable from the Grira- 
sel or the Furka. 

Route A. 

BRIENZ OR MEYRINGEN TO LUCERNE BY 
THE BRUNIG. 


Lungern 

Post 

stumlen 

. 3| 

Eng. 

miles 

Hi 

Sarnen . 

. 3* 

9| 

Alpnach-Gestaad 


H 

Lucerne 


9| 


~n? 



A new post-road between Lungern 
and the valley of Hasli was opened for 
traffic in 1861. Diligences ply daily 
between Alpnach and Brienz and Mey- 
ringen in connection with the steamers 


on the Lakes of Lucerne, Brienz, and 
Thun, so that travellers may go the 
whole way from Lucerne to Berne in 
one day. Those who wish to see the 
country will prefer to travel on foot or 
horseback between Meyringen or Brienz 
and Sarnen, or else to hire an open car¬ 
riage—price, with one horse, to Lucerne 
40 fr.—with two horses, 60 to 80 fr. It 
is a better plan to take the carriage 
only from Brienz or Meyringen to 
Gestaad, or else to Stanztad, paying 
25 fr. for a 1-horse carriage, or 40 fr. 
with 2 horses. 

The distance by road is about 1 m. 
greater from Meyringen than from 
Brienz ; but a foot passenger may save 
about 3 m. in going from Meyringen, 
or nearly 1 m. from Brienz, by follow¬ 
ing the old mule-paths. The inns at 
Lungern are dear, and certainly not 
better than those at Sachseln and 
Sarnen. 

The new road across the Briinig 
turns aside from the road between 
Brienz and Meyringen (§ 24, Rte. A) 
at the bridge of Wyler. The ascent ot 
about 1,600 ft. is tolerably steep, but 
the views gained along the valley ot 
Hasli make the way interesting. The 
finest prospect is from the old Toll¬ 
house, a short way below the summit 
of the pass, where two inns now offer 
lodging and refreshment to travel¬ 
lers. Here the mule-track from Mey¬ 
ringen joins the road. It is much the 
shorter and more picturesque way. 
A few hundred yards now take the 
traveller to the summit of the Briinig 
Pass (3,648'), lying between the Wy- 
lerhorn (6,283') and the Schorren 
(5,638'). The former summit, com¬ 
manding a very fine view, may be 
reached in 2 lirs. from the Toll-house. 

For about a mile from the summit 
the road traverses an undulating pla¬ 
teau, chiefly covered with forest, and 
reaches the brow of the descent towards 
the valLey of Sarnen at a small oratory. 
The descent by the old mule-path, 
amidst broken masses of rock and pine 
forest, is extremely picturesque. 

Lungern (Inns: zum Briinig; Lowe; 




ROUTE A.—ALPNACH 


1 31 


both tolerably good and dear), a pic¬ 
turesque village in the Canton Unter- 
walden, the highest in the valley of 
Sarnen. A fall of the Dundelbach, 
200 ft. in height, on the opposite side 
of the valley, is near at hand. The 
village originally stood on the shore of 
the small Lake of Lungern, formed by 
a natural barrier of rock stretching 
across the valley, and holding up the 
waters to a height of 700 ft. above the 
plain of Giswyl. As the barrier ap¬ 
peared to be of small breadth, the plan 
of lowering the level of the lake by a 
tunnel was suggested nearly a century 
ago, and achieved in 1836. It is doubt¬ 
ful w T hether the value of the land thus 
gained for cultivation repaid the outlay, 
while the result has certainly marred 
the picturesque effect of the lake. From 
some points on the surrounding slopes 
the peaks of the Wetterhorner may be 
seen towering over the intermediate 
mountains. The road runs along the 
E. shore near the ancient level of the 
lake, which is 120 ft. above the present 
outlet. A rather steep descent by a 
rocky slope, called the Kaiserstuhl, 
leads down to the little alluvial plain 
of Giswyl, whose little lake has been 
partly drained, partly filled up by the 
deposits brought down by the Laui- 
bach. To the W. rises the Gisivylerstock 
(6,075'), interesting to geologists owing 
to the extraordinary contortions of its 
Btrata. Here the stream from the Klein- 
Melchthal descends from the SSE. to 
join the Aa, which drains the valley of 
Sarnen. By that way lies a path to 
Meyringen, shorter, but much higher 
and rougher, than that by the Briinig. 

The road soon approaches the pretty 
Lake of Sarnen, a sheet of water about 
4 m. long and 1 broad, with gently- 
sloping shores, 1,546 ft. above the sea, 
and nearly 900 ft. deep. On the E. 
shore stands 

Sackse/n (InnsWeisses Kreuz; 
Engel; both good country inns). The 
parish church, a considerable building 
for so small a village, contains the 
bones, with various relics, of Nicholas 
von der Fliih, one of the worthies of 


Switzerland, of whom the Canton Un- 
terwalden is justly proud. ‘ He enjoys 
the rare reputation of a patriot, and at 
the same time a peace-maker, having 
spent his life in allaying the bitterness 
and dissensions between his country¬ 
men, which, at one time, threatened 
the destruction of the Helvetian Re¬ 
public. After an active life, in which 
he acquired a good reputation as a 
soldier in the field and an adviser in 
council, at 50 years of age he retired 
from the world into the remote valley 
of Melchthal, where he passed his time 
as a hermit in a humble cell, in exer¬ 
cises of piety. His reputation, however, 
for wisdom as well as virtue, was so 
high that the counsellors of the con¬ 
federacy flocked to him in his solitude 
to seek advice, and his sudden appear¬ 
ance before the Diet at Stanz and his 
conciliating counsels' prevented the 
dissolution of the confederacy. After 
enjoying the respect of men during his 
lifetime, he was honoured after his 
death (1487) as a saint.’—[M.] 

A tolerably executed portrait of 
Bruder Klaus, as lie is called by the 
country people is shown m. beyond 
Sachseln in the Rathhaus at 

Sarnen ( Inns: Schliissel, good; Adler, 
fair; Obwalder Hof, new; Sarnerhof), 
the chief place of this division of the 
canton called Obwalden. A path leads 
from hence to Sehiipfheim in the 
Entlebuch (§ 24, Rte. P). The hill of 
Landenberg over Sarnen marks the 
site of a castle once held by the Haps- 
burgs. The cruelties practised by one 
of their bailiffs led to the rising of the 
peasants and the destruction of the 
castle in 1308, one of the earliest events 
in the struggle for Swiss independence. 
It is a w T alk of about 1 hr. to the lianft, 
a wild recess in the neighbouring 
Melchthal (Rte. B),. where a chapel 
stands on the site of the hermitage of 
Nicholas von der Fliih. 

The shortest road to Lucerne is by 
Alpnach (Inn: Schliissel), along the 1. 

: bank of the Aa. Passing along the S. 
j base of the Pilatus (§ 26, Rte. A), the 
I road reaches the Alpnacher See, one 


E. 2 





132 


BERNESE ALPS. § 25 . TITLIS DISTRICT. 


of the bays of the Lake of Lucerne, j 
at 

Gestaad (Inn: Weisses Ross, good 
and reasonable; H. Pilatus), where the 
lake steamers touch twice a day in 
summer, reaching Lucerne in 1 hr. 
Tiie diligence follows a new road along 
the shore of the lake, making a circuit 
round the base of the Lapperberg, a 
promontory of the Pilatus. From the 
E. point opposite Stanzstad, a wooden 
bridge is carried across the shallow 
strait that connects the Alpnacher See 
with the L. of Lucerne. Foot passen¬ 
gers may shorten the way to Lucerne 
by traversing a low pass called Biingg 
(*2 1 323 / ) which leads direct to Hergis- 
wyl (Inn: Rossli, good), a village 
beautifully situated on the lake at the 
E. base of the Pilatus, which is most 
frequently ascended from hence. The 
road soon after quits the Canton Unter- 
walden to enter that of Lucerne. At 
Winkel it leaves the lake shore and 
passes through a rich and beautiful 
tract leading to 

Lucerne (§ 26, Rte. A). The road 
from Sarnen to Stanzstad, which is 
followed by many travellers bound for 
Lucerne, is described in the next Rte. 


Route B. 

MEYIUNGEN TO STANZSTAD, BY THE 
MELCH THAL. 

8i hrs.’ walking to Sarnen ; 9| rn. by carriage 
road thence to Stanzstad. 

A lover of alpine scenery may well 
prefer this route to that of the Briinig; 
it is somewhat shorter in actual dis¬ 
tance, but much more laborious. The 
name Hasliberg is given to the moun¬ 
tain-slopes N E. of Meyringen, drained 
by the Alpbach torrent, which forms a 
pretty cascade near the village. The 
higher range, not visible from Meyrin¬ 
gen, forming the boundary between the 


| Cantons Berne and Unterwalden, at- 
! tains the height of 8,150 ft. in the 
! Hehenstollen, and 8,516 ft. in the Laub- 
berstock. The pass leading to the 
Melch Thai lies immediately to the 
W. of the latter summit. 

The ascent lies by the 1. bank of the 
Alpbach torrent, passing the hamlet of 
Riiti. As the traveller rises above the 
valley, he obtains very fine views of 
the Oberland peaks, and the mountains 
between the great Scheidegg and the 
L. of Brienz. In 3f hrs. he attains 
the summit of the 

Luubergrat (7,352'). This com¬ 
mands a magnificent view of alpine 
peaks to the W. and S., and on the 
opposite side overlooks the head of the 
Melch Thai, a picturesque glen about 
14 m. long, which opens into the valley 
of Sarnen close to that town. An easy 
descent of about f hr. leads from the 
pass to the Melch See, a large mountain 
tarn, nearly 1 m. in length. This is 
drained through fissures in the lime¬ 
stone strata, and the stream first comes 
to light a long way farther down in 
the valley. A track leads due E. from 
the lake to the Tamili Alp, a level but 
high ridge, by which the Inn on the 
Engstien Alp (Rte. D) is reached in 
If hr. The descent through the Melch 
Thai is steep and very rough for the 
first hour. Thenceforward the path 
lies through a forest of grand old trees, 
and at intervals the views down the 
valley are magnificent. In 2 hrs. from 
the lake the traveller reaches the vil¬ 
lage of 

Melchthal, with two small country 
Inns. The site of the house once in¬ 
habited by Arnold von Melchthal, one 
of the founders of Swiss independence, 
is still pointed out. A char-road is 
carried from hence to Kerns (see be¬ 
low) along the E. side of the valley, 
commanding a pleasing view ; but 
the pedestrian will prefer to make a 
slight detour in order to follow the 
more interesting foot-path on the 1. 
bank of the torrent, passing by the 
lianft, and the oratory of Fliihli, much 
visited by the country people. The 




ROUTE B.—THE MELCH T1IAL. 


133 


distance from Melehthal to Sarnen or 
to Kerns is in either case about 2 hrs. 

The road from Sarnen to Stanz fol¬ 
lows a trough-like depression parallel 
to the course of the A a, but separated 
from it by the ridge of the Mutter- 
schw an dnerberg. 

Kerns (Inns: Krone, Rossli) is a 
large village, with a handsome modern 
church. An annual festival for wrest¬ 
ling and other games is held here on 
the 1st August. The road to Stanz 
passes through several small villages, 
and near to a cavern— Druchenhuhle— 
where, according to the local legend, 
Struthan von Winkelreid, the brother 
of Arnold, the hero of Sempach, slew 
a dragon that ravaged the country, 
and died of his wounds. A chapel, 
near at hand, is erected in commemo¬ 
ration of the deeds of the two brothers. 
A pretty path to the 1. through an 
opening in the hills, called the Rotz- 
loch, enables the pedestrian to save 2 
m., the distance that way to Stanzstad 
being but 1 m. The road makes a 
detour by the town of 

Stanz (Inns: Krone, good and reason¬ 
able; Engel), the chief place of Nid- 
w at den, as this division of the canton is 
called, to distinguish it from the upper 
division or Obwalden. The house of 
Arnold von Winkelried, whose statue 
stands in the market-place, is pointed out 
to strangers, and a part of the building 
seems old enough to justify the local 
tradition. A tablet in the parish 
church records the tragic events of the 
9th of September, 1798, when the 
people of Unterwaiden showed that 
the blood of the Winkelrieds still 
flowed in their veins, and renewed in 
modern times deeds worthy to be re¬ 
membered along with those of Ther¬ 
mopylae or St. Jacob. 

Having dared to resist the intro¬ 
duction of the new political constitu¬ 
tion imposed upon the Swiss by French 
arms, a population of little more than 
2,000 men and women capable of 
bearing arms successfully opposed for 
5 days the advance of a French corps 
of 16,000 men under General Schauen- 


bourg. In the last desperate struggle 
there lay among the dead 102 women 
and 25 children. The ferocity of tht 
victors equalled the desperation of the 
resistance. The village of Stanzstad 
and every house in the open country 
were burned to the ground, and 63 
helpless people, who had sought refuge 
in the church, were slaughtered along 
with the priest at the altar. Stanz 
itself was saved from the flames by 
the firmness of the officer commanding 
a French brigade. 

The road to Engelberg is described 
in § 26, Rte. F. 

An excursion may be made from 
hence to the summit of the Stanzerhorn 
(6,232'), sometimes called Schnauz. 
Charge for a guide, 3 or 4 fr. To go 
and return is a walk of fully 6 hrs. 
Other excursions in the direction of 
Buochs are noticed in § 26. 

An omnibus plies twice a day from 
Stanz to meet the steamer for Lucerne, 
the distance being fully 2 m., to 

Stanzstad (Inns: zum Winkelried, 
hotel and pension, good,—carriages 
kept for hire; Hotel Freihof; and 
several smaller houses), beautifully 
situated on the lake, opposite to the 
Pilatus, the foot of which is reached 
by the new wooden bridge crossing 
the narrow part of the lake. Near at 
hand, by the path through the 
Rotzloch leading to the chapel of 
Winkelried (see above), is the Pension 
Rotzloch, adjoining a mineral spring, 
whither visitors resort for baths, for 
the milk or whey cure, or merely to 
enjoy the beautiful scenery of the 
neighbourhood. It is kept by M. 
Blattler, the meritorious builder of the 
chief inn on the Pilatus. 






134 BERNESE ALPS. § 25 . TITLIS DISTRICT. 


Route C. 

SARNEN TO ENGELBERG. 

Two paths lead from the Melch 
Thai to Engelberg : a guide is said to 
he necessary, as by neither way is the 
path well marked. 

1. By the S tor egg Pass. 5| hrs.’ 
walk.—This is rather the shorter way, 
hut the ascent is steeper. From the 
Ranft, about 1 hr. above Sarnen, it is 
necessary to cross to the rt. bank of 
the Melch Aa—the torrent draining 
the Melch Thai. A path then mounts 
the opposite slope, and soon enters a 
lateral glen. The ascent lies by the 
rt. bank of a small stream that descends 
towards the main valley from a de¬ 
pression between the Salistock (7,628') 
and the Bockistock (7,468'). Towards 
the summit the path is steep and ill- 
marked. The Storegg Pass, 6,703 ft. 
above the sea, about 3^ hrs. from 
Sarnen, is a notch in the rocky ridge 
connecting the above-named summits. 
A small tarn called the Lutern See is 
reached in | hr. from the pass, and the 
path then bends to the S., descending 
a rather steep slope, and in 1 hr. joins 
the path from the Juchli (next de¬ 
scribed), about | hr. above Engelberg. 

2. By the Juchli. 6 hrs.'walk.—This 
is on the whole a more interesting 
way than the last, and the view from 
the top is preferable. As far as the 
village of Melchthal, 2 hrs. from 
Sarnen, the way is described in the 
last Rte. By a detour of § hr. that 
place may be reached in a char. Fully 
2 hrs are required for the ascent, due 
W. from the village, chiefly by steep 
grassy slopes, to the summit of the 
Juchli (7,131'). The view backward 
over the Melch Thai is pleasing; but 
that to the eastward, extending to the 
snowy range of Schlossberg and the 
Spannorter, is still more interesting. 
The descent lies in part over loose 
debris, and the track is scarcely 
traced; 1| hr. suffices to reach the 
point where this path unites with 
that from the Storegg. Passing 


the hamlet of Erspan, the traveller 
soon reaches Engelberg (Inns: H. 
Catani, best; H. Muller, good; II. 
Engelberg), described in § 26, Rte. F. 
In taking this pass from Engelberg 
the traveller may engage a guide as 
far as the summit—charge, 3 fr.—the 
way to Melchthal being easily found. 


Route D. 

MEYRINGEN TO ENGELBERG. ASCENT 
or THE TITLIS. 


Hrs.’ 

Eng. 

walking 

miles 

Wyler. . . 1* 

4 

Engeiherger Joch 3f 

9f 

Engelberg . . 3£ 

71 

1 

1 GO 

21 


The pass is traversed by a bridle¬ 
path, but in some places the forest is 
so thick that it is troublesome to ride, 
and in the steepest part of the descent 
towards Engelberg ladies do well 
to walk. The short cut hereafter men¬ 
tioned saves ^ hr. Horses may be 
taken at Hof as well as at Meyringen. 

As far as Hof, 1 hr. from Meyringen, 
the way is the same as that described 
in § 25, Rte. C. The char-road there 
turns out of the Haslithal, and begins 
to ascend through the valley of 
Gadmen (Rte. E.). At Wyler, about 
l;f- m. above Hof, the path leading to 
Engelberg turns aside to the 1., leaving 
the Gadmenthal in order to enter the 
lateral valley called Gentelthal. The 
way lies up the steep slope of the 
mountain through a thick forest. 
There is a short cut, but a traveller 
without a guide does unwisely when 
he leaves the beaten track. After at¬ 
taining a plateau of pasture-land that 
commands a fine view towards the 
Urbachthal, the track is carried at a 
gentler inclination along the slopes 
above the rt. bank of the Gentelbach. 
The Gentelthal is enclosed between 
two high and steep ridges—to the N. 
the Erzegg (9,336'), between which 




ROUTE D.—MEYRINGEN TO ENGELBERG. 


135 


and the Lauberstock (Kte. BJ an un¬ 
frequented path leads to the Melch 
See; to the S. the Gadmenjiuh (9,98/), 
a spur from the Titlis dividing this 
valley from the Gadmenthal. The 
scenery is pleasing, the path alternating 
between pine forest and green pastures 
that command fine views of the 
neighbouring mountains. Near the 
chalets of Jiingholz, H hr. from 
Wyler, a pretty cascade is seen on the 
opposite side of the valley, formed by 
the Jiingibrunnen, that burst out in 
numerous copious springs from the 
base of the Gadmenfluh. Another 
pretty waterfall formed by the Gentel- 
bach lies on the rt. of the path \ hr. 
further up the valley, and deserves a 
slight detour. About 2 hrs. from 
Wyler the track crosses the stream, 
and a steep and rough ascent of nearly 
1 hr. leads thence to the Engstlen Alp, 
an extensive tract of mountain pasture 
whereon lies a small lake. A re¬ 
markable intermittent spring called 
Wunderbrunnen lies near the path. It is 
evidently supplied from the melting of 
the snow on some of the adjoining 
heights, as it flows only during the 
warmer months of the year from spring 
to autumn, and between 8 a.m. and 
4 p.m., being dry at other times. 
Near at hand is a little mountain Inn, 
more than 6,000 ft. above the sea, very 
well kept, and affording comfortable 
quarters to the mountaineer. Those 
who are tempted to remain some time 
for the sake of the pure air and fine 
scenery, may live en pension at the very 
moderate rate of 4fr. a day. The most 
interesting excursion to be made from 
hence is the ascent of the Titlis, de¬ 
scribed below, but a practised moun¬ 
taineer may doubtless find occupation 
among the neighbouring glaciers. [A 
pass called the Sdtteli (about 6,500') tra¬ 
verses the range to the W. of the Gad- 
menfluh,and leads either to Miihlethal ot¬ 
to Gadmen, in hrs. from the Engstlen 
Alp. There is another pass over the 
same range much nearer the Titlis. 
The descent on the S. side is by a 


small and steep glacier. la that way 
a traveller with a guide may reach 
Gadmen by the rt. bank of the Wen- 
denthal, or the Stein Alp by crossing 
the Wenden glacier.] The geologist 
may find many Ammonites and other 
fossils of the Middle Oolite or Ox¬ 
fordian period in the rocks of the Geis- 
berg near the Engstlen Alp. 

A steep ascent of ^ hr. leads from tie 
Inn on the Engstlen Alp to the summit of 
the Engelberger Jock , commonly' called 
Joch Pass, 7,244 feet above the sea, 
here forming the boundary between 
the Cantons Berne and Unterwalden. 
The summit commands a fire view of 
the neighbouring peak of the Titlis, 
and of the range of the Wallenstbcke 
N. of Engelberg. There is a choice of 
two ways for the descent from the 
Joch. The horse-track turns due N.„ 
and in less than ^ hr. leads the traveller 
to the chalets of the Ober Triibsee Alp, 
and so down to the Triib See (5791'), 
a small tarn lying in a hollow to the 
rt, fed by the melting of the Triibsee 
Glacier, which flows from a plateau 
between the summits of the Titlis and 
the Ochsenberg. The neighbouring 
slopes are covered with huge blocks of 
stone fallen from the adjoining heights, 
amidst which it is easy for a stranger 
to miss the track. In about 1^ hr. from 
the pass is the Unter Triibsee Alp. 
Thence the bridle-track winds down 
the steep slopes of the valley of Engel¬ 
berg, reaching that village in rather 
more than 3 hrs. from the summit of 
the pass. 

The other way for descending from • 
the pass is shorter, but practicable only- 
on foot It is necessary to bear some¬ 
what to the rt. of the bridle-track, 
keeping in the direction of Engelberg 
for a short distance, ‘ then descending 
abruptly on the rt. to a plain, on 
which, at b m. on the left, is situated 
the Triib See, fed by glaciers descend¬ 
ing from the Ochsenberg on the rt. It is 
necessary to bear away to the rt. hand 
extremity of this plain, where there is 
a gap, from which a very rough and 





BERNESE ALPS. § 25. TITLIS DISTRICT. 


I06 

precipitous path, called the Pfaffen- 
wand, descends for 20 minutes over 
grass, and afterwards debris, to the 
pastures, crossing which it enters the 
forest for J- hour, and shortly reaches 

Engelberg, [M]. 

For an account of Engelberg and 
the Surenen Pass, see § 26, Rte. F. 

Ascent of the Titlis. There is 
scarcely any one of the higher peaks 
of the Alps so easy of access as this ; 
and as it has the advantage of over¬ 
looking the whole of the N. of Switzer¬ 
land on the one side, and commanding 
a very fine alpine panorama on the 
other, it is deservedly often visited. 
When no tolerable night quarters were 
to be found nearer than Engelberg, the 
ascent was, however, decidedly labori¬ 
ous; but since the opening of the good 
little Inn on the Engstlen Alp, the 
expedition is brought within the 
reach of moderate walkers. In clear 
weather the way is so easily found that 
practised mountaineers will scarcely 
require a guide ; but as there are a few 
crevasses in the upper neve, and some 
spots steep enough to make a slip 
dangerous, the writer recommends that 
the rope should not be neglected. 

For the sake of the fine effect of 
sunrise when seen from a point high 
enough to overlook the nearer moun¬ 
tains, it is worth while to start from 
the Engstlen Alp some time before 
sunrise. The way follows the path to 
Engelberg as far as the top of the 
Joch Pass, then turning to the rt. 
along the ridge. After a while it be¬ 
comes necessary to descend a little in 
order to cross a bed of snow, and then 
to mount along the side of the Triibsee 
Glacier. Henceforward the course is 
the same as that usually taken by those 
who make the ascent from Engelberg, 
passing by the Triib See. Steep, stony 
pastures, called Rothe-egg, are suc¬ 
ceeded by a slope of debris; then 
some easy rocks lead up to the great 
mantle of n£ve, partly consolidated 
into glacier, that covers on this side 
the highest peak of the mountain, 
called the Nolten. The easiest course 


is to bear somewhat to the rt. during 
the first part of the ascent, and then in 
the opposite direction. A projecting 
rock is often taken for the summit; but 
this is only a prominence in the ridge 
of the mountain, and after it has been 
attained it is necessary to cross a 
slight depression "and achieve another 
final climb before gaining the topmost 
peak of the Titlis ('10,627'). The 
projecting point that must be crossed 
in the ascent measures 9,944 ft., and 
another summit, called Reissend Noilen, 
in the range connecting the Titlis with 
the Gadmenduh, attains 9,879 ft. 

The Titlis is a limestone peak, 
forming the corner-stone of the Can¬ 
tons Berne, Uri, and Unterwalden, 
cut away in a formidable precipice 
on the E. side, and elsewhere covered 
by a thick coating of neve, through 
which a few rocks reach the sur¬ 
face. The view to the N. is very 
extensive, the horizon being bounded 
by the Black Forest. More to the 1. 
the spire of Strasburg Cathedral is 
said to be sometimes visible. The 
Oberland peaks are here seen from a 
point of view so unusual, that those 
who know them only from the side of 
Berne and Interlaken find it hard to 
recognise them. The Wetterhorner 
and the Finsteraarhorn, the latter 
assuming the form of a pyramid of 
dark rock, are the most remarkable 
objects. Nearer at hand the Sustenhoru 
presents a fine snowy cone rising 
above the Susten and Stein Glaciers, 
and the peaks that form the E. 
boundary of the valley of Hasli. In 
the far distance is seen the summit of 
the Monte Leone. Beyond the Spitz- 
liberg, which forms the E. extremity 
of the Sustenhorn group, are seen many 
distant summits of the Grisons Alps. 
Those who wish to study the topogra¬ 
phy of the Alps from this point will 
do well to procure a panorama pub¬ 
lished by Zeller of Zurich, kept for 
sale at Catani’s Hotel at Engelberg, 
and to be found at Lucerne, &c. 5 hrs. 
suffice for the ascent from the Inn at 
the Engstlen Alp, and 3 hrs. for the 





ROUTE E.—MEYRINGEN TO WASEN. 


137 


descent. Competent guides are easily 
found by application to the landlord. 
The fatal accident of 1865, which cost 
the life of a good guide, as well as that 
of the traveller, did not occur on the 
usual line of ascent. 


Route E. 

MEYRINGEN TO WASEN, BY THE SUSTEN 
PASS—ASCENT OF THE SUSTENHORN. 


Hof 

Hrs.’ 

walking 

. 1 

Eng. 

miles 

3 

Nesselthal 

. 2 

6 

Stein Alp 

. 2* 

7 

Susten Pass . 

. 1 

2 

Maien . 

• n 

6f 

Wasen . 

• h 

3f 


m 

1 HOI 

00 


In 1811, when the Valais was an¬ 
nexed to the French Empire, it became 
important to open direct communica¬ 
tion between the Canton Berne and the 
road of the St. Gothard. A char-road 
over the Susten Pass was commenced 
and partially completed, when the fall 
of the Empire restored traffic to its 
natural channels. The road of the 
Susten was neglected and let to fall to 
ruin, but a new line is now in construc¬ 
tion at the cost of the Swiss Confedera¬ 
tion. A portion of the ancient paved 
way has been destroyed by the advance 
of the Stein Glacier. The journey 
from Meyringen to Wasen is usually 
counted 11 or 11^ hrs., but the dis¬ 
tances noted above are believed to be 
correct. A fast walker has accom¬ 
plished the whole in 9^ hrs. of actual 
walking. Hire of a horse from Mey¬ 
ringen, 35 fr., but return horses are 
often found at Hof. A guide (scarcely 
requisite) costs 10 fr. 

At Wyler (see last Rte.)the track lead¬ 
ing to the headof the Gadmenthalleaves 
to the 1. that which mounts towards the 
Gentelthal, and is carried along the rt. 
bank of the Gadmer Aar past the junc¬ 


tion of the Gentelbach. The opening 
of the Gentelthal appears so imprac¬ 
ticable, that a stranger might guess in 
vain how access to it is obtained. The 
lower part of the main valley is some¬ 
times called Muhlethal, and the middle 
portion Nesselthal; but these names are 
now generally applied only to the vil¬ 
lages or communes herein mentioned, 
and the name Gadmenthal given to 
the entire valley. The scenery is 
throughout of a high order, decidedly 
more interesting than that of the 
somewhat overrated valley of Hasli. 
Muhlethal (2,733') is a small village 
finely situated. About i hr. farther 
is Miihlestalden, the home of a 
family of guides well known to the 
readers of G. Studer, Desor, Roth, and • 
other explorers of the Oberland. The 
head of the family is Johann von 
Weissenfluh, past 6U years of age, but 
still an active mountaineer. He is of 
higher social position than is usual in 
his profession, boasting gentle blood, and 
is much respected in his native valley. 
His sons, Andreas and Melchior v. 
Weissenfluh, are good and careful 
guides, well acquainted with the neigh¬ 
bouring Alps, and the greater part of 
the Oberland. Near Miihlestalden the 
Triftbach, draining the great Trift 
Glacier (Rte. F.J, flows into the Gad¬ 
menthal through a narrow cleft, which 
does not lead the stranger to suppose 
that it is the gateway to one of the 
most extensive ice-fields in the Alps. 
The next village is Nesselthal , one of 
the most picturesquely-situated in the 
valley. 

The chief place lies 1 hr. farther up. 
The commune (Gemeinde) called Gad- 
men includes three hamlets, of which 
that next the church is called Am Buhl 
(4,101'). The inn (Biir) is poor, but 
travellers usually apply to the village 
clergyman. Melchior Moor is a good 
local guide. The mountains rise 
steeply on either side, and the inhabi¬ 
tants have suffered much from spring 
avalanches. Here a lateral glen, called 
Wendenthal,opens to NE., between the 
Gadmenfluh andthe Urathorner( 9,961'), 






138 


BERNESE ALPS. § 25. TITLIS DISTRICT. 


closed at its upper end by the Wenden 
Glacier. By that way the Titlis (Rte. 
D) may be reached in 6 hrs. from Gad- 
men, and by its SE. side a pass, which 
may be called Wenden Jock (8,G94'), 
leads to Engelberg. After passing Ober- 
matt, the highest hamlet of Gadmen. 
and crossing the Wendenbach, the ascent 
becomes more rapid, the path keeping 
about due E. on the rt. bank of the 
Gadmer Aar. The chalets of Weissen- 
matt (4,944-') stand just below one of 
the most picturesque parts of the route. 

Pines and firs gradually disappear as 
the Stein Glacier comes into view, and 
within a few hundred yards of the ice 
the traveller reaches the Inn of the 
Stein Alp (6,119'), affording very fair 
* quarters, the only convenient halting- 
place for a mountaineer in this valley. 
The Stein Glacier is said to have ad¬ 
vanced more than a mile within the last 
50 years, and it has certainly destroyed 
in that time the paved path that formerly 
led over the pass. The Glacier is more 
fully described below in connection 
with the ascent of the Sustenhom. 

Passing close by the lower end of 
the Stein Glacier, the path, which is 
carried away in many places, mounts 
steeply to the Susten Pass, 7,440 ft. 
above the sea, reached in 7 hrs. ascend¬ 
ing from Meyringen. It commands 
a fine view of the neighbouring peaks. 
The main peak of the Sustenhorn is 
concealed by the Yorder Sustenhorn 
(10,889'), and the Spitzliberg is masked 
by the nearer Stiie/ilistock (10,857'), 
while to the N. the rugged ridge of the 
Uratbhorner, still nearer at hand, pre¬ 
sents a bold and striking outline. To the 
E. the pass overlooks the Maienthal , a 
wild glen, nearlv bare of trees, through 
which lies the descent to Wasen. In 
the background rise the mountains that 
separate the Reuss from the head 
waters of the Vorderrhein. Crossing 
some snow-beds that are almost always 
found on the E. side of the pass, the 
traveller descends rapidly in about f hr. 
to the Maienbriicke, a bridge thrown 
over the torrent of the Maienbach. a 
short way below its exit from the Sus¬ 


ten Glacier. Nearly f hr. more must 
be allowed to reach the Hundsalp, a 
group of chalets 5,627 ft. above the sea. 
The path crosses and recrosses the tor¬ 
rent several times, and approaches near 
to several pretty cascades. Passing the 
hamlets of Riiti and Fernigen, where 
the foaming stream of the Gurezmettler- 
bach descends from the N. into the 
valley, the village of Maien (4,400'^) 
(wfith a poor Inn) is reached in 2f hrs. 
from the pass. The houses are de¬ 
fended from avalanches by angular 
stone embankments. The descent from 
Maien is steep and rough. On approach¬ 
ing the valley of the Reuss, the track 
passes a redoubt, thrown up at a remote 
period, occupied and defended by the 
Austrians in 1799, but stormed by the 
French troops under Loison. The high 
road of the St. Gothard, described in 
§ 30, Rte. A, is reached at Wasen 
(3,068') (Inn: Ochs, rough but clean), 
in If hr. from Maien. 

The Maienthal maybe reached from 
Engelberg by the Grassen Pass. Mr. 
Tuckett, who crossed in 1864, gives 
the following times :—Engelberg to 
Herrenriiti, if hr.; thence to foot of 
glacier, if hr.: ascent of rocks by 1. 
bank, 1 hr. 5. min.; across glacier to 
top of the pass (about 9,000' ?) 50 min.; 
down Kuhpfad Glacier to its 1. bank, 
f hr. ; down steep slopes to the Klein 
Alp, 1 hr.; to junction with track from 
Susten Pass, 20 min. ; thence to Wasen, 

1 hr. 50 m. ; in all, 8 hrs. 35 min. 

Ascent of the Sustenhorn. The Sus¬ 
tenhorn (11,519) is the highest point in 
the snowy range that encloses on the 
E. side the Stem Glacier. That great 
ice stream originates in a plateau con¬ 
necting that mountain with the Thier- 
berg. The connecting ridge, exceeding 
10,000 ft. in height, is abruptly cut off 
on the S. side where a steep range of 
rocks rise above the head of the Ge- 
schenenthal. The glacier has been 
described as being divided into several 
branches, but it may more properly be 
said that two islets of rock rise out of 
one and the same ice-field. The central 
islet is called Bocksberg ; the other 





ROUTE F.-MUHLESTALDEN TO THE GRIMSEL. 


139 


farther W. is the Thierhergli, which 
divides the middle from the W. arm of 
the glacier. The three main arms 
descend in ice-falls through the open¬ 
ings between these rocks and the 
containing walls of the valley. The 
first recorded ascent of the Sustenhorn 
was effected in 1841, by M. G. Studer, 
with Johann and Heinrich Weissenfluh. 
He seems to have traversed the lower 
part of the glacier towards the Bocks- 
berg, and to have effected the greater 
part of the ascent along the E. bank of 
the glacier by a steep climb up rocks, 
debris, and snow-slopes. The Susten¬ 
horn presents three summits following 
each other in ascending order from the 
Susten Pass to the highest peak. The 
lowest is called Vorder Sustenhorn 
(10,889') ; the next a rocky peak, the 
Hinter Sustenhorn (10,958'); while the 
highest snow summit, or Sustenhorn 
proper, is often called Gletscherhorn by 
the people of Gadmen. M. Studer, 
having reached the saddle or depression 
between the two latter summits, gained 
the main peak by a snow-ridge, not 
very narrow or steep, but sufficiently 
so to make the use of the axe neces¬ 
sary. In subsequent ascents a different 
course has been followed. The upper 
plateau of the glacier has been gained 
by climbing the rocks of the Thier- 
bergli between the middle and the 
western ice-falls, and the way thence¬ 
forward lies over a snow-field in which 
concealed crevasses are rather nume¬ 
rous. The upper plateau is reached in 
about 3^ hrs. from the Stein Alp. It 
is necessary to keep somewhat to 
the rt. in order to avoid several wide 
open crevasses, and in so doing to pass 
under the ridge of the Thierberg, 
whence, in some states of the snow, 
avalanches fall from time to time. 
When this course is followed it becomes 
necessary to mount nearly to the sum¬ 
mit of the ridge overlooking the Ge- 
schenenthal (4|- hrs. from the Stein 
Alp) before commencing the ascent of 
the peak, which requires hr., or 
even more when the snow is soft and 
deep. The view to the E. and S. j 


seems to be especially interesting, while 
that of the Oberland Alps must be even 
superior to that gained from the Titlis. 
A high ridge extends southward from 
the Sustenhorn, which gradually di¬ 
minishes in height and treads to the 
eastward as it approaches the middle 
portion of the Geschenenthal. 

Thierberg is a collective name for the 
range on the E. side of the Trift Gla¬ 
cier. The northernmost point or Vor¬ 
der Thierberg (10,141') is divided from 
the rest by a practicable snow col, which 
ought to be called Thierberg Limmi if 
that name had not been misapplied on 
the map published by the Swiss Alpine 
Club. Then follows the long ridge of 
the Hinter Thierberg , in which five 
summits have been measured by the 
Federal Engineers. Reckoning from 
N. to S. the first (10,908') is possibly 
that reached in 1801 by Messrs. R. W. E. 
Forster and Hardy Dufour. The secofid 
(11,215') was attained in 1804 by M. 
Preisse. The third and fourth, both 
measure 11,300 it. One of these highest 
summits was reached by Herr Wenger 
in 1804, but no one seems to have 
attempted the extreme S.peak(l 1,105'). 
The last four summits overlook the 
Kehle Glacier at the head of the Ge¬ 
schenenthal (Rte. H), and are better 
reached from the Trift Glacier than 
from the Stein Alp. 

The passes to Geschenen are de¬ 
scribed in Rte. II- 

Route F. 

MUHLESTALDEN TO THE GRIMSEL, BV 
THE TRIFTLIMMI. 

11 to 12 hrs., exclusive of halts. 

The first traveller known to have 
explored the great glacier district lying 
between the Grimsel and the valley of 
Gadmen was M. G. Studer. In the 
various excursions recounted in his 
‘ Topographische Mittheilungen,’ that 
excellent mountaineer made so thorough 
an acquaintance with the recesses of 
this little-known district, that little was 
added by subsequent writers, until the 
appearance of the second Jahrbuch of 






140 


BERNESE ALPS, 


§ 25 . TITLIS DISTRICT. 


the Swiss Alpine Club, containing the 
results of several expeditions under¬ 
taken in 1864 by the members of that 
body. As regards the chief addition 
to the topography of the district, the 
Swiss travellers were, however, anti¬ 
cipated in the same season by Mr. 
Tuckett and by Mr. Jacomb (see Rte. H), 
The family of Weissenfiuh, mentioned 
in the last Rte., were long considered 
the only competent guides for this 
region, and are still those most inti¬ 
mately acquainted with it, but Arnold 
Kehrli, who accompanied Mr. R. Fow¬ 
ler across the pass in 1854, the Blatters 
of Meyringen, Melchior Moor of Gad- 
men, and some others, are quite compe¬ 
tent to lead travellers to the Grimsel. 
Future visitors wishing to explore the 
upper snow-fields and the surrounding 
peaks, will be glad to avail themselves 
of the hut constructed by the Swiss 
Alpine Club on the rocks of the Thiil- 
tistock, above the upper ice-fall of the 
Trift Glacier, 8,251 ft. above the sea. 
This is as comfortable a shelter as can 
6e expected in such a position, being 
supplied with rugs, a stove, crockery, 
&c., and affords far better quarters than 
the hut at the Windegg used by the 
earlier explorers. Those who object 
to pass the night there, or at the Win¬ 
degg, will do well to lodge at Weissen- 
fluh’s house at Miihlestalden, where 
there is no inn, and to start before 
daylight in the morning. 

A wooden bridge crosses the Gadmer 
Aar at Miihlestalden, near to the junc¬ 
tion of the torrent from the Trift Gla¬ 
cier. The track mounts above the 1. 
bank of the torrent, which has cut for 
itself a deep and impassable gorge be¬ 
tween the base of the Radolfshorn 
(8,543')—here pronounced Radlefhorn 
—to the E., and the Fhischerhorn, a 
buttress of the Mahrenhorn, to the W. 
In 3 hrs. of rapid ascent, passing along 
narrow rocky ledges, or climbing steep 
slopes, the traveller reaches the Wind- 
egg (6,237'). a spot lying at the base 
of one of the rocky ribs of the Mah¬ 
renhorn, overlooking the lower ice-fall 
of the Trift Glacier, with a noble view 


of the surrounding scenery. Here the 
elder Weissenfiuh has constructed a 
rude hut, without door or window, but 
tolerably well roofed, designed for his 
own convenience as a chamois-hunter 
and mineralogist, but available for the 
few travellers who pass this way. The 
most interesting part of the view is 
that of the range of peaks seen on the 
opposite side of the glacier. The first, 
commencing on the 1. hand, is the 
Radolfshorn, at whose base, just above 
the rocky bank of the glacier, is the 
chalet of Graggi, inhabited by two 
herdsmen, where M. G. Studer twice 
found shelter for the night. ESE. of 
the Radolfshorn is the JDrosistock 
(9,288'), and farther back the Giglihorn 
(9,515') Between these and the Vor- 
der Thierberg is a depression which 
marks the Steinlimmi Pass (next Rte.), 
whereby it is practicable to pass from 
the Trift to the Stein Glacier. Farther 
S. rises the range of the Hinter Thier¬ 
berg, and below it a buttress, called 
Thaltistock, which projects towards 
the Trift Glacier. This lies in a to¬ 
lerably level plateau, with few crevasses, 
between the spectator and the base of 
the Thierberg range. Lower down is 
an icefall passed by the traveller who 
has followed the path to the Windegg. 
An upper ice-fall of far grander 
dimensions, and utterly impassable, 
separates the near portion of the gla¬ 
cier from the upper plateau, and at 
first sight it is not easy to guess how 
the passage is to be effected. The tra¬ 
veller is not quite reassured when he 
is told that the ascent is accomplished 
by the rocks of the Thaltistock. These 
appear from a distance formidably 
steep, but, as the rocks give good hold 
for feet and hands, the scramble is not 
difficult. In 4 hr. from the Windegg 
the glacier is crossed, and 1 hr. more 
suffices to reach the upper plateau of 
the glacier above the ice-fall, near the 
new hut of the Swiss Alpine Club. 
As, to a spectator viewing the glacier 
from below, nothing is visible beyond 
the ice-fall, it was long supposed that 
the valley of the Trift was terminated by 



ROUTE F.—THE TRIFTLIMMI. 


141 


a ridge connecting the Thierberg with 
the Diechterhorner, which is accord¬ 
ingly inserted in the older maps. In 
point of fact, the snow-fields stretch 
southward with a gentle slope for at 
least 2 m. farther to the ridge that here 
divides the Aar from the Rhone. This 
runs diagonally across the snow-fields 
in a NE. direction, from the Thierdlpli- 
stock (11,132'), to the W. peak of the 
Schneestock, which forms the northern 
end of the Winterberg range. In place 
of the name Triftgletscher Joch, used 
in the first edition of this map, the 
writer willingly adopts the name Trift- 
limmi proposed by M. Lindt, inasmuch 
as in the local dialect the word limmi 
is used for a practicable pass over a 
high ridge. 

Keeping nearly due S., and about 
the centre of the upper glacier, with 
the range of the Diechterhorner, whose 
highest point reaches 11,119 ft. at some 
distance to the rt., the traveller reaches 
the summit of the TriftUmmi (about 
10,200'), in about 2| hrs.fromthe point 
where he attained the upper plateau of 
the glacier. Along the dividing ridge 
low rocks formed of large rectangular 
slabs of gneiss crop out from the neve, 
and at some points rise a few hundred 
ft. about the lowest point of the pass. 
On either side the eye ranges over 
vast snow-fields, which rise to the E., 
some 1,600 ft. above the level of 
the pass, to the ridge dividing the 
Rhone Gl. from the Damma Gla¬ 
cier, that falls into the Geschenenthal. 
This ridge, collectively called Winter¬ 
berg, includes three principal summits 
—the Schneestock (11,667'), Dannna- 
stock( 11,920'), and Rhone stock (\\ ,821'). 
All of these were reached without dif¬ 
ficulty from the upper plateau in 1864. 
The descent from the pass requires 
some caution, as the neve covers many 
concealed crevasses, and is necessarily 
traversed in the middle of the day. 
The best course over the upper part of 
the Rhone Glacier is to keep all the 
way near to the rt. bank. The peak 
of the Galenstock comes into view a 
short way below the summit. As the[ 


traveller advances, new peaks are seen 
in succession towards the S. and SW„ 
beginning with those surrounding the 
Gries Pass (§ 29, lite. A), and termi¬ 
nating in the giants of the Monte Rosa 
group. The upper basin of the Rhone 
Glacier forms an extensive nearly level 
plateau, where the snow is so soft that 
travellers who cross it are forced to 
wade rather than walk. By taking 
the course above suggested Messrs 
A. G. Girdlestone and Trueman es¬ 
caped this inconvenience, and shortened 
the way so much that in 1^ hr. from 
the summit they gained terra firm a a 
little above the great ice-cascade of the 
Rhone Glacier, so much admired by 
those who pass the lower end of the 
ice-stream in going from the Furka to 
the Grimsel. On the W. side of the 
glacier, below the ridge of Niigeli’s 
Griitli, the alpine pastures of the Saas- 
berg extend to the Grimsel Pass. The 
undulating surface contains many small 
pools and tarns, without any beaten 
track, and the slopes on the side of th • 
Grimsel present steep slippery faces of 
gneiss. In clear weather there is no 
difficulty in finding a way down to the 
little lake near the Hospice, which mav 
be reached in 4^- hrs. from the Trift- 
limmi. When the clouds lie low, the 
best guide may be at fault, and it is then 
best to keep straight on a little S. of W. 
until the traveller has gained the beaten 
track of the Grimsel (§ 24, Rte. C), 
somewhere near the top of the pass. 

M. G. Studer has pointed out the 
possibility of reaching the Furka, in¬ 
stead of the Grimsel Hospice, in one 
day from the Gadmenthal, by leaving 
the Rhone Glacier on its 1. bank above 
the great ice-cascade, and keeping 
along the slopes of the Galenstock 
until the track of the Furka Pass is 
reached at no great distance from the 
summit. Here the traveller now finds 
better accommodation than at the 
Grimsel. 

j The Ascent of the Galenstock (11,798') 
has been repeatedly made from the 
Furka inn (§ 30, Rte C); but is done 
at least as well from the inn at the 



142 


BERNESE ALPS. § 25. TITLIS DISTRICT. 


Rhone Glacier, or from the Grimsel. 
By whichever way it be approached, 
the mountain is now usually climbed by 
a small lateral glacier on its SW. flank 
leading to the arete S. of the peak. 
Like all the higher mountains of this 
district, it has a ridge running N. and 
S., and very steep on its eastern face. 
The panoramic view will generally be 
preferred to that from the somewhat 
higher summit of the Dammastock. 
M. Desor has published an account of 
the first ascent, made by himself and 
two companions, with five guides, in 
1845, when they reached the summit by 
the northern arete. In descending, a 
huge mass of snow which overhung 
the edge of the precipice on the Realp 
side was suddenly detached; not 
being attached together with the rope, 
one of the party fell along with 
the incipient avalanche. His life was 
saved by the fortunate accident that 
the portion of the snow on which he 
stood struck a projecting rock only 70 
feet below the ridge of the mountain, 
while the remainder of the detached 
snow fell a distance of 2,000 or 3,000 ft. ] 
Forgetting M. Desor’s statement that 
he looked down from the arete of the 
Galenstock to the valley of Realp, and 
misled by the older maps, many travel¬ 
lers believed it possible to reach the 
Geschenenthal by crossing the ridge N. 
of the Galenstock. On the W. side of 
that ridge lies the Tiefen Glacier , whose 
torrent falls into the Urserenthal about 
14 hr. above Realp (§ 30, Rte. C), while 
another high ridge diverging from the 
Winterberg divides the Tiefen Gl. from 
the Dammi Gl. and the Geschenenthal. 


Route G. 

STEIN ALP TO GUTTANNEN, BY THE 
STEINLIMMI AND FURTWANG PASSES. 
ASCENT OF THE STEINH AUSHORN 
AND THE MAHRENHORN. 

About 11 hrs.’ walk, exclusive of halts. 

There are not many districts in the 
Alps where a single day’s walk offers so 
much variety and grandeur of scenery 


as that, here described. The pass of 
the Steinlimmi, connecting the Stein 
Glacier with that of Trift, and the 
Furtwang, leading from the 1. bank of 
the latter to Guttannen in the valley of 
Hasli, may be united in a single excur¬ 
sion, but may also be taken separately, 
or variously combined with other ex¬ 
peditions noticed in the preceding 
Rtes. Thus, a traveller starting from 
the Stein Alp may cross the Steinlim¬ 
mi to the chalet of Graggi, then tra¬ 
verse the Trift Glacier to the Windegg, 
and descend on the same day to Muhle- 
stalden, and so to Hof or Meyringen ; 
or else sleep at Graggi, or the Hut on 
the Thiilti stock, and reach the Grimsel 
on the following day by the Triftlimmi 
(See last Rte.). So also a traveller 
going from Meyringen to the Grim¬ 
sel may turn aside at Hof, reach the 
Windegg by the path mentioned in the 
last Rte., and then cross the Furtwang 
to Guttannen in about 104 hrs. from 
Meyringen. In order to reach the 
summit of the Steinhaushorn or the 
Miihrenhorn, it is a better plan to start 
from Hof. 

The Steinlimmi is a depression in the 
range connecting the Thierberg with 
the Giglihorn. The ascent from the 
Stein Alp lies by the slopes on the W. 
side of the Stein Glacier, at first about 
due S., but gradually bending to the W. 
round the rocks of the Thaleckhorn. 
For the last hour the way is steep, 
lying over snow-slopes alternating with 
rocks or debris. About 3 hrs. suffice 
to reach the summit, which is 8970 
feet above the sea-level. The view, 
though limited, is very striking. Look¬ 
ing backwards, the traveller sees the 
Sustenhorn, the Titlis, and the peaks 
of the Maienthal, beyond the Stein 
Glacier, which lies below him. On 
the opposite side he overlooks the Trift 
Glacier, backed by the Kilchihorn, the 
Steinhaushorn, and the Miihrenhorn; 
while the opening of the Furtwang 
between the two last gives a distant 
view of the Schreckhorn, the Wetter- 
hbrner, and other summits of the 
Oberland Alps. Keeping somewhat to 





ROUTE G.—THE STEINLIMMI. 


143 


the rt. the traveller descends by the de¬ 
clivity of the Drosistock to the chalet 
of Graygi (2 hrs. from the pass), men¬ 
tioned in the last Rte., on the rocky 
pastures above the rt. bank of the 
Trift Glacier. Although the slope 
is not rapid, the ice is here a good deal 
crevassed, and from ^ hr. to 1 hr. is 
required to pass to the opposite bank at 
the base of the Windegg. The Furt- 
tvang Pass, 8393 ft. in height, wrongly 
placed on the S. side of the Steinhaus- 
horn in the map of this district given 
in the second series of ‘ Peaks, Passes, 
and Glaciers,’ lies on the N. side of 
that peak, and affords an easy mode 
of connecting a visit to the Trift 
Glacier with the ordinary route from 
Meyringen to the Grimsel. A rather 
steep ravine, descending between the 
Steinhaushorn and the buttress of 
the Mahrenhorn, called Windegghorn, 
affords a passage to the traveller who 
would attain the Furtwang from the 
Windegg. The ascent is rather long 
and steep, requiring about 3 hrs., but 
presents no difficulty. The descent to 
Guttannen is made in little more than 
2 hrs.; but 3^ hrs. are required for the 
ascent, when the Furtwang is attacked 
on the W. side. In case of need, night- 
quarters may be found at the Steinhaus 
Alp. 

The summit of the Steinhaushorn 
(10,276') may be reached in about 2 
hrs. from the Furtwang. The latter 
part of the way is a rather difficult 
climb; none but practised mountaineers 
should attempt it without a guide. The 
view includes a vast panorama of Al¬ 
pine peaks. Though somewhat lower 
than the Steinhaushorn, the Mahren¬ 
horn (9,839') is in most respeets a more 
interesting point of view. Besides the 
array of peaks which inevitably come 
within reach of the mountaineer who 
attains so lofty a point, the Miihren- 
horn overlooks the whole length of the 
Haslithal and the Gadmenthal, and a 
considerable portion of the Gentelthal, 
the Urbachthal, and the glen of the 
Triftbach. The summit is reached in 
2 hrs from the Furtwang by a scramble 


over steep rocks, with here and there 
an ice-slope requiring the use of the axe. 
The descent on the N. side is equally 
steep, and the expedition is lit only for 
trained mountaineers.] 

Of the remaining peaks in the range 
on the Fi. side of the Haslithal, 
the sharp obelisk-shaped Kilchihorn 
(10,213') still claims the title of inac¬ 
cessible. The highest of the Diechter- 
horner (11,119') was attained in 1864 
from the Swiss Club hut by Herr 
Schwarzenbach, and the Thierdlpli - 
stock (11,132') by M. Jacot. 


Route H. 

GESCHENEN IN THE VALLEY OF THE 

RECSS TO MEYRINGEN, BY THE 

GESCHENENTHAL. 

The Geschenenthal is one of the most 
secluded valleys of the Alps, until lately 
quite neglected by travellers. No accu¬ 
rate information respecting it was forth¬ 
coming at the date of the first edition 
of this work, and but one glacier pass, 
known to the native chamois hunters, 
was believed to lead into it. It was 
visited by several members of our Al¬ 
pine Club early in 1864, and later in 
the same season, some of the Swiss 
Club made the expeditions recorded in 
their Jahrbuch for 1865. 

The valley opens at the village of 
Geschenen (3,619'), on the road of the 
St. Gothard (§ 30, Rte. A), and for 
about l£ hr. a frequented path mounts 
gently along the 1. bank of the Gescke- 
ner lieuss till, at Wicki (4,350'), it 
reaches the junction of a torrent flow¬ 
ing from NW. through a wild glen 
called VoraJpthal, closed at its head by 
a rather large glacier—the Wallen- 
buhlfirn. [If time be an object, the 
shortest way to the Stein Alp is through 
the Voralpthal, and over the ridge con¬ 
necting the Vorder Sustenhorn with 
the Stuckli-Stock. The pass, which 
may provisionally be called Wallen- 
biihl Pass (8,717'), was traversed many 
years ago by M. G. Studer. On the N. 
side a steep and high ridge of rocks 




144 


BERNESE ALPS. § 

leads down to the small Kalchthal 
Glacier , and in 2 hrs. more the Stein 
Alp is reached either by keeping along 
the rocks on the 1. bank, nearly at a 
level with the Susten Pass, or by fol¬ 
lowing the stream till it reaches the 
beaten track, and remounting nearly 
1,500 ft. to the latter pass. From the 
1. bank of the Wallenbiihl Glacier the 
summit of the Spitzliberg , or Flecken - 
stock (10,965'), was reached in 1864, 
by a steep and long snow couloir, by 
MM. Raillard and Finiger, with Kas- 
par Blatter and Ambrose Zgraggen.] 
From Wicki the path along the main 
branch of the Geschenenthal maintains 
a direction somewhat S. of W., but 
mounts much more rapidly, and fully 
1-j hr. is required to reach the only 
village in the valley. 

Geschenen Alp (5,627'). Surrounded 
by high mountains in the coldest part 
of Switzerland, the climate of this se¬ 
questered spot is exceptionally severe, 
the houses being sometimes almost 
buried in snow for several months in 
winter. The only accommodation is 
at the cure’s house. Realp may be 
reached from hence in little more than 
5 hrs. by the Lochberg Pass (9,124'), 
lying due S. of the little village, and 
that would be the shortest way to the 
Furka. In 1864 Messrs. Stephen and 
Macdonald effected a more direct pass 
to the Furka over the ridge between 
the extreme S. corner of the Damma 
Glacier and the Tiefen Glacier, which 
was crossed in a SW. direction, enter¬ 
ing the Urseren Thai a short way be- 
low the Furka Pass. In the same 
season Mr. Jacomb made another more 
difficult pass at a point farther W., and 
nearer the head of the Tiefen Glacier. 
The most remarkable object in view 
from Geschenen Alp is the great Damma 
Glacier, the lower end of which is less 
than a mile distant. Expecting to arrive 
at the Rhone Glacier, Mr. Tuckett, 
early in 1864, reached the ridge nearly 
at the same point subsequently attained 
by Mr. Jacomb, and found himself cut 
off from it by the Tiefen Glacier (Rte. 
F), not laid down on the older maps. The 


25. TITLIS DISTRICT. 

attempts to traverse the range of the 
Winterberg, between the N. part of the 
Damma Glacier and the Rhone Glacier, 
though made from the Geschenen side 
by Messrs. Stephen and Macdonald, 
and from the W. side by the tw f o Weis- 
senfluhs, were unsuccessful. 

The pass long known, but used only 
by native hunters, that leads from the 
head of the Geschenenthal to the Stein 
Alp is the Geschencnlimmi (Stein Joch 
of G. Studer), about 10,170 ft. in height. 
About 1 hr. above the Geschenen Alp, 
the path along the l! bank of the tor¬ 
rent approaches the foot of the Kehle 
Glacier , which fills the head of the 
valley. Keeping to its 1. bank, the 
way mounts rather steep slopes till it 
reaches a small lateral glacier that 
abuts against the ridge of the Susten- 
horn. The course then lies nearly due 
[ N. to a snow col by which this glacier 
communicates with the great plateau 
at the head of the Stein Glacier, de¬ 
scribed in Rte. E in connection with the 
ascent of the Sustenhorn. For the 
-way to the Stein Alp, see that Rte. 
This pass, which seems to present no 
serious difficulty, offers a new and con¬ 
venient way for the mountaineer be¬ 
tween the Bernese Oberland and the 
St. Gothard road. It w'as traversed in 
1864, by Herr Schwarzenbach, and a 
few days later by Mr. Brooksbank. The 
latter describes it as an ‘ easy walk of 
8f from the Stein Alp to Geschenen’— 
perhaps meaning Geschenen Alp. In 
the same year. Herr Hoffmann, having 
from the side of the Trift Glacier 
reached the col between the second 
and third peaks of the Thierberg, 
effected a very steep descent to the 
head of the Kehle Glac er, and so 
reached the Geschenen Alp in 4 hrs. 
from the summit. Between the latter 
pass and the Geschenenlimmi, the fine 
peak of the Steinberg rises to 11,247 ft., 
and must command a very fine pano¬ 
ramic view. The writer suspects that 
this is the peak which was ascended by 
Messrs. R. W. E. Forster and Hardy 
Dufour in 1861, and was taken by them 
for the Thierberg. 









14 =; 


CHAPTER VIII. 

ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. 


Section ‘26. 


FOREST CANTONS. 


Route A — Cologne to Altdorf, by Basle, 
Olten, and Lucerne . 4 

Route B—Basle to Lucerne, by Zurich 
— The Rigi .... 

Route C— Lucerne to Schwyz and Brun- 
ncii • • • • • 

Route D — Schwyz to Richterschwyl, by 
Rothenthurm 

Route E — Schwyz to Rapperschwyl, by 
Einsiedlen . 

Route F — Stanzstad to Altdorf, by Kngel- 
berg and the Surenen Pass . 

Route G —Stanz to Altdorf, by lsenthal . 

Route H — Stanz to Altdorf, by Becken- 
ried and the Sonnenberg . 

Route I — Altdorf to Stachelberg, by the 
Klauseu Pass 

Route K — Schwyz to Glarus, by the Pra- 
gel Pass—Ascent of the 
Cliirnisch . 

Route L — Mootta to Altdorf . 

Route At — Muotta to Stachelberg, by the 
Bisithal . 

Route N — Lachen to Schwyz or Glarus, 
by the Waggi Thai 


147 

157 

168 

171 

172 

173 

175 

176 

177 

178 
181 

182 

183 


Section 27. 


THE TODI DISTRICT. 

R ute A — Zurich to Stachelberg, by Gla¬ 
rus— Ascent of the Toni 185 

Route B — Staelu luerg t > amsteg, by the 

Clariden Grat . . . 197 

Route C — Basle to Dissentis, by Schaff- 

hausen and Coire . . 202 

Route D—Dissentis to Andermatt, by 
the Oberalp Pass — Sources 
of the Voiderrhein . . 217 

Route E — Dissentis to Amsteg — Kreuzli 

Pass.219 


Route F — Dissentis to Stachelberg, bv 
the Sand Grat — Ascent of 
the Stockgron . . 220 

Route G — llanz, or Dissentis, to Starhel- 

berg, by the Kisten Pass 222 
Route H — Uauz to Elm, in the Sernft 

Thai, by the Panixer Pass . 223 
Route I—Reichenau to Elm, by the 

Segnes Pass .... 224 
Route K — Glarus to Ragatz, by the 
Serntthal and Sardona Gla- 



cier 



225 

Route L — 

Glarus to Sargans, 

by 

the 



Sernfthal 


• 

228 

Route M — 

• Elm to Stachelberg, 

by 

the 



Richedi Pass 

• 

229 

Route N — 

Reichenau to Ragatz, 

by 

the 



Kunkels Pass 

• 

• 

229 


Section 28. 

SENT1S DISTRICT. 

Route A — Winterthur to Rorschach, by 
railway . 

Route B— Uznach to St. Gall . 

Route C—Rorschach to Saigans and 
Coire. by railway . . 

Kotite D—Rorschach to Trogen, Gais, 
Appenzell, and Weissbad . 

Route E — St. Gall to Alstadten 

Route F — Weissbad to the Valley of the 
Rnine. 

Route G — W 1 1 to Sargans, by the Tog. 
geuburg . 

Route H — Ne.-slau to St. Gall, by Ur- 
nasch . 

Route I — Nesslau to Weissbad 

Route K — Nesslau to Wesen — Ascent of 
the Speer 

Route L— Wildhausto Weissbad, by the 
Kray Alp . 

Rou ell - Wildhaus to Wallenstadt, by 
the Churfirsten 


231 

■iirt 

234 

235 
2 8 

23‘.t 

24U 

241 

242 

242 

243 


The portion of the Swiss Alps in- j 
eluded in the present chapter is not 
nabitually known by a common de¬ 
signation, but is nevertheless more 
accurately defined by natural boundaries 
than any other of the main divisions of 
the Alps. If two travellers start in 
opposite directions from the Oberalp 1 
Pass at the head of the valley of the 
\ order Rhine, and one of them should 
PAKT II. L 


follow that stream to its entrance into 
the Lake of Constance, and beyond 
that lake in its course towards Basle, 
while the other descends along the 
torrent leading from the pass to 
Andermatt, and then accompanies the 
Reuss to its junction first with the 
Aar, and then with the Rhine, near 
Waldshut, they will on meeting there 
have accomplished between them tLie 









146 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND, 


§26. FOREST CANTONS. 


circuit of the ranges which, for want 
of a collective name, are here de¬ 
scribed as the Alps of North Switzer¬ 
land. 

To the eye of the geologist the 
region so defined includes two essen¬ 
tially different portions. The first, 
that hereafter described as the Todi 
chain, forms a continuation to the 
ENE. of the range of the Bernese 
Alps, from which it is separated only 
by the deep cleft that affords a passage 
to the Reuss from the foot of the St. 
Gothard Pass to the Lake of Lucerne. 
Here gneiss and other crystalline rocks 
are overlaid by secondary deposits, 
which are carried to a great height 
above the sea level. The second 
geological division of the region now 
under discussion includes the outer 
ranges, called by German topogra¬ 
phers Voralpen, that encompass the 
Lakes of Lucerne, Zug, and Wallen- 
stadt, and extend even to the shores 
of the Lake of Constance. Here the 
newer secondary and tertiary rocks 
exclusively prevail, and, with the 
single exception of the Glarnisch, the 
mountains do not surpass the limit of 
permanent snow. 

'('he shores of the above-mentioned 
and some other smaller lakes abound 
with exquisite scenery, which has 
made this part of Switzerland one of the 
most frequented haunts of foreigners, 
and there is no lack of good accommo¬ 
dation in most of the places of common 
resort. The higher mountains, and 
especially the Todi chain, offer 
abundant occupation to the moun¬ 
taineer, but he must not expect to find 
here glacier scenery on a scale com¬ 
parable to that of the Bernese and 
Pennine Alps. German is the uni¬ 
versal language throughout the region 
described in this chapter, excepting in 
the valley of the Vorderrhein, where 
the native tongue is Romansch, an 
ancient dialect derived from the Latin, 
spoken throughout a great part of the 
Grisons. 


SECTION 26. 

DISTRICT OF THE FOREST CANTONS. 

Under the above title is included 
the portion of the Alps surrounding 
the Lake of Lucerne, and extending 
thence to the valleys of the Linth and 
the Limmat. The mountains are in 
great part formed of tertiary rocks 
which have undergone denudation and 
other mechanical changes, so that the 
original direction of the ridges is 
rarely distinguishable, but ou the whole 
the predominant course of the valleys 
is parallel to that of the Todi chain. 
For the sake of convenience it has 
been thought better to include in this 
district the Pilatus, as well as the 
high mountains lying between the 
Surenen Pass and the Lake oi 
Lucerne, though orographically these 
are outliers from the Bernese Alps, 
described in Chapter VII. 

If the ardent mountaineer whose 
delight is to attain peaks untrodden 
or rarely touched by human teet, or 
to explore the inner recesses of the 
ice-world, should find the district now 
described wanting in attractions, the 
same will certainly not happen to the 
more pacific lover of nature, who here 
finds in the most varied combination 
all except the sternest elements of 
picturesque beauty. Neither can a 
reasonable amount of interest to t!>e 
mountaineer be wanting in a district 
where he may find such peaks as the 
Glarnisch and the Uri Rothstock to 
exercise his favourite pursuit. 

For mountain excursions the best 
head-quarters are found at Engelberg 
or at Vorauen. Many places on or 
near to the Lake of Lucerne ate 
admirably situated for persons who 
seek the attractions of beautiful 
sceuery, pure fresh air, with tolerably 
good accommodation, during the 
summer. 







ROUTE A.—COLOGNE TO BASLE. 


147 


Route A. 

COLOGNE TO ALTDORF, BY BASLE, 
OLTEN, AND LUCERNE. 


Mayence (by rly. or steamer) 

Eng. 

miles. 

114 

Ludwigshafen (by railway) . 
Basle (by rly. on 1. bank) 

4'2 

171 

Lucerne ..... 

57£ 

Eluelen (by steamer) 

24 

Altdorf (by road) . 

4 


410 


For travellers to whom a single 
3ay is not an important object, the 
most agreeable way from England to 
Switzerland is undoubtedly that by 
Belgium and the Rhine. In addition 
to the objects of interest on the road, 
there is the advantage of travelling 
a part of the way without fatigue 
or annoyance by the Rhine steamer, 
instead of the heat, dust, and 
racket of a railway journey. It is a 
further consideration that travellers by 
French railways who do not choose to 
incur the great delay and inconvenience 
of travelling by the ordinary slow 
trains are forced to pay first-class fare, 
even for servants, in the express 
trains. In this way travelling with 
a numerous family becomes much 
more expensive in France than in 
Germany. On the other hand, it is 
an inconvenience that the line of 
railway connecting Cologne and 
Basle is in the hands of several dif¬ 
ferent companies, whose arrangements 
are often intended for other objects 
than the pubic convenience. It 
would appear that the trains on the 
German and Swiss railways have been 
at various times altered so as to pre¬ 
vent travellers from availing them- 
se.ves of the steamers, or to force 
them to halt in certain towns. Tra¬ 
vellers should not fail to obtain the 
latest intelligence as to the railway 
time-tables, and arrange their plans 
accordingly. 

Persons who reach Cologne at 4 in 
the afternoon bv express train from 
Brussels (in 6 hrs. 20 min ), or from 


Antwerp, and who intend to travel by 
steamer on the following day, do well 
to go on by Bonn by rly. on the 
same evening after a halt of 3 hrs., to 
visit the famous Cathedral. As the 
banks of the river between these two 
cities are uninteresting, nothing is lost 
by this arrangement, but if hurried 
they must leave Cologne by the evening 
express at 5 p.m., and reach Mayence in 
about 4 hours. They may sleep at 
that place, start again at 5.25 next morn¬ 
ing, and reach Basle at 5.10 p.m.. just 
too late for the evening train to Lucerne, 
but in time to reach Berne or Zurich 
on the same night. 

Those who do not object to night¬ 
travelling continue their journey by the 
train which carries them in 13 hrs. from 
Cologne to Basle, reachingthe lattercity 
at 6 a m., and before night may easily 
find themselves in the heart of the 
Swiss Alps. 

The most direct course for travel¬ 
lers from England to Switzerland is 
by the morning express train leaving 
Cologne at 9 a.m., w'hich enables them 
to reach Basle at 9.15 p.m. on the same 
day. 

Those who wish to see Strasburg 
Cathedral on their way to Switzer¬ 
land must either give additional time 
or travel by Paris. An express train 
carrying first and second class pas¬ 
sengers leaves Strasburg at 3 48, and 
reaches the Central station at Basle, 
whence the trains depart for most parts 
of Switzerland at 7.7 pm., and four 
slow trains perform the same service 
daily in 4 or 5 hrs. Another plan for 
visiting Strasburg cn route, is to turn 
aside at the Appenweier station on the 
rly. from Mannheim and Heidelberg 
to Basle, and cross the Rhine by the 
bridge at Kehl. Those not pressed for 
time may combine a visit to Luxem¬ 
bourg, Treves, and the battle-fields of 
the late Franco-German war, with a 
visit to Strasbourg, by taking the Great 
Luxembourg Railway from Brussels to 
Luxembourg—a morning train in 64 
hrs , and another in the afternoon in 6 
hrs., but that line is not suited for 


L * 









148 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. 


§ 26 . FOREST CANTONS. 


th-.se who wish to proceed direct to 
Strasbourg or Basle. 

In arranging his route ' by the 
various Rhenish railwgtys, the traveller 
will not forget that Paris time is kept 
on all the French lines, and that this 
is about half an hour slower than the 
time kept on the German lines. These 
do not exactly agree, but the differ¬ 
ences usually amount to no more than 
4 or 5 minutes. 

The Station of the Baden Rly. 
from Mannheim to Basle is in Klein 
Basel, a suburb of the latter city on 
the 1. bank of the Rhine, and stands 
about ^ m. from the bridge. Those 
who would go on to Lucerne must 
proceed at once across the bridge to 
the Central Swiss Rly. Station 
(Central Bahnhof). Basle is de¬ 
scribed in § 23, Rte. A, where there 
is also a brief notice of the railway 
from thence to Olten. Here, at 
23^ miles from Basle, the lines to 
Berne, Lucerne, and Zurich diverge 
from the same station. The line to 
Lucerne, after remaining for a few 
minutes united to that leading to 
Berne, turns to the SE. at the foot 
of the hill on which stands the Castle 
of Aarburg, and mounts very gently 
through a pretty valley watered by 
the Wiggern. The first place of any 
note, about 5 m. from Olten, is 
Zofingen ([nns: Rbssli, Ochs), a very- 
ancient little town, probably the 
Roman Tobinium. The remains of 
an extensive Roman villa with mo¬ 
saics, medals, &c., have been dis¬ 
covered close at hand, and a country 
inn now stands on the adjoining 
ground. 

Beyond the Dagmarsellen station 
there is a fine view of the L. of 
Sempach, backed by the mountains of 
tne Lake of Lucerne. Nearly 5 m. 
farther, by the Wa uu-yl Station, is the 
Wauwyler See, a little lake known to 
Swiss botanists for the many rare 
marsh plants found in the adjoining 
peaty ground: amongst them are 
L>par is Loeselii, and Lt/simachia 
thyrsifiora. The little walled town of , 


Sursee (Inn: Sonne, with a collection 
of stuffed animals in the house) pre¬ 
serves, in the double-headed eagle 
carved above its gates, a record of the 
time when the country lay under the 
dominion of the house of A ustria. It 
stands at the NW. end of the Lake of 
Sempach, whose name recalls one of 
the great events that put an end to that 
dominion. This is a pretty sheet of 
w-ater nearly 5 m. long by l| w-ide, 
and 1,608 ft. above the sea, enclosed 
within an amphitheatre of hills whence 
at some points the Oberland Alps, 
or the nearer mountains of the Forest 
Cantons, are seen in the background. 
It contains many excellent fish, one 
of which —Salino Lavaeretus —is pecu¬ 
liar to this part of Switzerland. The 
rly. passes along the S. shore of the 
lake, leaving to the rt. the village of 
Buttisholz, where an earthen mound 
bears the name Englander Hiibel, and 
is said to cover the bones of a body of 
Norman-English adventurers, or free 
lances, who, under Enguerrand de 
Coucy, after pillaging the neighbour¬ 
ing districts, were here defeated and 
slain by the Swiss in 1376. About 
25 m. from Olten is the Sempach 
Station, fully a mile from the little 
decaying town which has given its 
name to one of the battles most 
famous in the story of Swiss in¬ 
dependence. The battle of Sempach 
was fought on the hill about 1^ m. 
NE. of the town. Most readers 
are familiar with the account of 
the battle as given by Zschokke. 
Neither Greek nor Roman annals can 
show a more brilliant deed of martial 
heroism than that of the man of 
Unterwalden—Arnold Von Winkel- 
ried—who, when the Sv-iss hung back 
dispirited by the failure of every 
effort to break through the serried 
lances of the Austrian knights, opened 
the way that led his countrymen to 
victory and freedom by gathering 
with outspread arms the steel points of 
the enemies’ weapons, and burying the 
‘ sheaf of fatal Austrian spears ’ in his 
; own bosom. Several crosses, and a 




ROUTE A.—LUCERNE. 


149 


ehapel built immediately after the 
battle, mark the site. 

About 9 m. beyond the Sempacb 
Station the rly. passes through a 
tunnel under the so-called Gibraltar 
Hugel to the Lucerne Station on the 
S side of the Reuss. Those who 
wish to proceed at once by the late 
steamer should lose no time in cross¬ 
ing the wooden bridge that leads to 
the steamboat quay. 

Luckrne (Inns: Sehweizerhof; 
Grand H. National; Luzernerhof; all 
on the quay, first rate houses; Eng 
lishherhof; good, rather dear; H. du 
Rigi, good and reasonable; Schwan, 
good. The three last named front the 
lake near to the landing-place of the 
steamers; and all of them enjoy noble 
views of the lake and the neighbouring 
mountains. A little more distant, 
but very well situated, is the new Hotel 
and Pension Beaurivage. It not un¬ 
commonly happens that travellers who 
do not write to secure rooms find all 
the above houses full, in which case 
they must seek quarters in some of 
the second-rate inns in the town, of 
which the following may be named: 
Waage, good; H. St Gothard, new; 
Rdssli ; H. du Lac, good ; H. des Alpes; 
Adler, Krone, both small but good ; 
Hotel de la Poste). Thouah but the 
7th or 8th town of Switzerland in 
population, this is perhaps the most 
interesting to a foreigner from the 
unequalled beauty of its position, 
and from being the natural metro¬ 
polis of the Four Forest Cantons 
from whose alliance Swiss indepen¬ 
dence dates its origin. The interior 
of the town contains comparatively 
few objects of interest, but its ex¬ 
ternal aspect is singularly picturesque. 
The old walls are set at intervals 
with watch-towers of mediaeval archi 
lecture, and the quaint wooden- 
roofed bridges recall an earlier and 
more primitive style than is found 
in the new quay with its stately 
hotels. A modern structure, crossing 
the Reuss just as it issues from the 
lake, somewhat mars the effect of the 


• 

ancient Kapellbriicke—dating from 
1300, which is passable only on foot. 
The projecting wooden roof is covered 
inside with ancient fresco pictures, 
curious but of no artistic merit, repre¬ 
senting events in Swiss history, and in 
the legendary story of Saints Leodegar 
(Fr. Leger) and Maurice, the patrons 
of the city. About the middle of the 
Kapellbriicke rises the Wasserthurm, 
a very ancient tower, whose foundations 
are said to be of R< man origin, that 
served at once for defence and as a 
lighthouse to guide boatmen approach¬ 
ing from the lake. Hence the name 
of the city (Lucerna), whose German 
form is Luzern. The third bridge 
over the Reuss is more modern, and 
passable for carriages. A fourth foot¬ 
bridge, somewhat farther from the lake, 
is called Spreuer Briicke, or Muhlen 
Briicke,and resembles the Kapellbriicke 
in its construction. It contains within 
a Dance of Death painted by Meglinger 
in the 16th century. 

The longest of all the bridges, called 
Hofbriicke, which was carried, not over 
the river, but across a shallow part of 
the shore, was removed, and the ground 
on which it stood reclaimed from the 
lake, in the construction of the new 
quay. At the end farthest from the 
river, formerly reached by the Hof- 
briicke, is the Hofkirche. or church of 
St. Leodegar. The interior contains 
some second rate works of art and a 
fine organ. The cemetery surrounding 
the church is enclosed by arcades com¬ 
manding exquisite views, and the spot 
is a favorite resort for persons given to 
the contemplative mood. 

Lucerne contains a remarkable work 
of art, perhaps the most appropriate 
and touching monument in existence. 
It is erected to the memory of the faith ¬ 
ful Swiss Guard who fell on the 10th 
Aug. 1792, in the fruitless effort to 
defend Louis XVI. and his family in 
the attack made upon the Tuileries by 
the revolutionary mob of Paris. The 
monument, designed by Thorwaldsen, 
and carved in the live rock by Ahorn 
of Constance, represents a eolossal lion 






150 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 26 . FOREST CANTONS. 


wounded to death, whose last effort is 
to protect with his massive paw a shield 
emblazoned with the fleur-de-lys of the 
House of Bourbon. Beneath are in¬ 
scribed the names of 42 officers and 
the number of men who fell on that day. 
The position of the monument en¬ 
hances its effect, and no stranger should 
pass through Lucerne without visiting 
it. The monument is known as Thor- 
waldsen’s Lbwen-Monument. Near at 
hand is Meyer’s Rigi-Panorama, en- 
ti'ance 1 fr., which deserves a visit from 
those who are prevented by want of 
health or bad weather from enjoying 
the original. A small collection of 
Swiss stuffed birds and quadrupeds, 
extremely well mounted by M. Stauf¬ 
fer, entrance 1 fr., deserves the notice 
of naturalists. 

The matchless beauty of its position, 
and the number of interesting expedi¬ 
tions within reach of Lucerne, naturally 
induce many strangers to make it their 
head-quarters during the summer sea¬ 
son. Numerous boarding-housas, or 
pensions, offer good accommodation on 
moderate terms, it is difficult to make 
a selection among so many, but the 
following may be named as being well 
recommended. Pension Worley, for¬ 
merly fEschmann ; Fitzger, on the 
Felsberg, fine view ; P. Victoria and 
P. Gibraltar on the rising ground 
above the 1. bank of the Reuss. Many 
other establishments of the same kind 
are to be found in the vicinity of the 
town. The Pension Tivoli, with baths 
on the lake, is about 4 m., and that of 
Darn man more than 1 m , out of the 
town, both near the road to Kiissnacht. 
Of others rather more distant, those 
at the Seeburg and Sonnenberg have 
been recommended. 

The neighbourhood of Lucerne 
abounds so much with beautiful points 
of view, that it is difficult, if not impos¬ 
sible, to exhaust the list. Of the 
shorter walks in the immediate neigh¬ 
bourhood, the Fluhmatt, and the walk 
called Alleinwinden on the N. side of 
the town, the Drei Linden on the 
Giziiberg, and the Giitsch and Gibral¬ 


tar Hiigel on the 1. bank of the Reuss 
all deserve notice. Row-boats of varL 
ous sizes are kept for hire. There is 
no fixed tariff. * The ordinary charge 
is 75 cents per hour for the hire of the 
boat, and the same rate for each boat¬ 
man.’—[B.] 

All the hills' near the town may 
afford scope for short excursions, and 
reward the trouble by new and beauti¬ 
ful combinations of scenery. The 
Sonnenberg to the SW., a prolongation 
of the ridge of the Giitsch, and the 
Dietschenberg to the NE., are both 
recommended; but probably the most 
interesting of the shorter excursions is 
that to the Mcggenhorn, or the Otte- 
berg, lying in the angle between the 
bay of Kiissnacht and that of Lucerne, 
and overlooking a great part of the 
lake. A visit to the ruined castle of 
Neu-Habsburg may be included in the 
same walk. Of the longer excursions 
from Lucerne by far the most fre¬ 
quently made is that to the Rigi, de¬ 
scribed in Rte. B; but of late years, 
since it has been made easy of access, 
the Pilatus has attracted every year an 
increasing number of visitors, and may 
best be described in this place. 

The Pilatus is the rugged moun¬ 
tain mass, lying SSW. from the town, 
which is the most conspicuous object 
in all the views from the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Lucerne. It has many 
summits, of which seven principal 
peaks are distinguished by separate 
names. The highest, or Oberhaupt 
(7,290'), is followed in succession by 
the 1 omlishorn (6,997'), Esel (6,962'), 
Wutderfeld (6,'*47'), Matthorn (6,675'), 
Klimsmhorn (6,555') and Gemsmiittli 
(6.435'). The middle and lower por¬ 
tions of the mountain are clothed with 
forest, broken by large patches of ex¬ 
quisitely green mountain pasture, while 
the upper part consists mainly of steep 
crags, separated by deep clefts. On 
the S. side the forests have been much 
cut away, and the slope is less varied 
and picturesque than on the side facing 
Lucerne. Many paths may be followed, 
but the most interesting, especially in 



ROUTE A.—THE PILATUS. 


151 


the descent, is that by Hergiswyl, 
while the least agreeable, ancl that in¬ 
volving the hottest walk, is the path 
from Alpnach. A circuitous but pic¬ 
turesque way is that from Lucerne by 
Hergottswald and the Briindlen Alp, 
and this may be recommended to tra¬ 
vellers who do not object to a walk of 
at least 6 hrs. As this way is little 
frequented, a guide is almost necessary ; 
while the paths from Hergiswyl and 
Alpnach may be easily found by any 
one used to mountain-walking. A 
practised cragsman will have little 
difficulty in reaching the upper part of 
the mountain from Herrgottswald by 
some of the ravines that separate the 
higher peaks. Unpractised climbers 
should, however, keep to the paths. 
In 1857 a traveller wandering from the 
path fell over steep rocks and lost his 
life. A few years ago the ascent of 
the Pilatus was comparatively a diffi¬ 
cult and laborious expedition, as there 
was no place on the mountain better 
than a poor chalet where a traveller 
could find food or shelter. The case 
lias been much altered since an enter¬ 
prising native of Unterwalden, named 
Bliittler, made a good bridle-path from 
Hergiswyl to the upper part of the 
mountain, and opened a very good 
mountain Inn on the Klimsenhorn, at 
6,288 ft. above the sea, and since an¬ 
other Inn has been built near the sum- 
m t of the Esel. 

On leaving Lucerne the road to 
Alpnach is followed for about 5 m., 
at first through a country rich with 
orchards and green meadows and com¬ 
fortable farm-houses, till beyond Win- 
kel the road skirts the shore of one of 
the many bays of the Lake of Lucerne, 
where the forest descends nearly to 
the water’s edge. At Hergiswyl (Inn : 
lldssli, very fair) horses (at 10 fr. 
each), guides, and chaises-a-portenr 
(charge 20 fr.) are found for the 
ascent. A path mounts somewhat N. 
nf E. through fields and fruit-trees, 
reaching in 1 hr. a little Inn at a place 
called Briinneli, and, a little beyond 
tt, a seat commanding a beautiful view 


over the lake. During the ascent still 
wider views recur, until in 2 hrs. from 
Hergiswyl the traveller reaches the 
alpine pasture or alp of Fracmiind— 
derived from Mons Fractus, one of the 
ancient names of the Pilatus. The 
pedestrian who may have engaged a 
boy to show him the way thus far, 
may now send him back, as the Klim¬ 
senhorn Inn is henceforth constantly 
in view at the upper end of a rocky 
valley or ravine, which would not be 
easily mounted without the assistance 
of the good zigzag path made at the 
expense of M. Bliittler, the landlord. 
The Inn, reached in 3^ to 4 hrs. from 
Hergiswyl, is very well kept and quite 
comfortable in fine weather, when not 
overcrowded. It stands in a depression 
or col on the upper ridge of the moun¬ 
tain, called Klimsenhorn-Egg. A 
naturalist may well make this his halt¬ 
ing-place for several days, as the moun¬ 
tain, besides being considerably higher 
than the Rigi, offers many more ob¬ 
jects of interest. The flora of the lime¬ 
stone Alps is here very well repre¬ 
sented, and the botanist may find 
several rare plants, such as Papaver 
alpinum (in debris below the peak of 
the Esel), Petrocallis pyrenaica. Cam¬ 
panula thyrsoidea , Androsace charnce- 
jasme , Festuca Scheuchzeri, &c. 

To enjoy fully the panorama frorr. 
the Pilatus, it is necessary to mount 
some one of the peaks which rise 
steeply out of the upper ridge of the 
mountain. The easiest of access is 
the Klimsenhorn, reached in 5 m. from 
the neighbouring Inn ; but as this is 
overlooked by several higher points, 
most persons prefer the Tomlishorn or 
the Esel, both of which have been 
made accessible by good paths, with an 
iron holdfast here and there in spots 
where unpractised climbers may be 
liable to giddiness. The view from 
the Esel is commonly preferred. The 
way to it passes the Bellevue Inn, 
and the path leading to Alpnach. 
A zigzag path mounts from the Klim- 
senhorn-Egg in 20 m. to the base of 
the Chriesiloch, a chimney-like cleft 




152 


ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 26 . FOREST CANTONS. 


in the limestone rock -which is climbed 
-with the help of bidders. At the top 
the traveller emerges on the high bare 
ridge, at a short distance from the 
point where the track from Alpnach 
reaches the crest of the mountain. 
Here stands a new Inn, Bellevue, said 
to be well kept, and a worthy rival to 
that on the Klimsenhorn-Egg. This 
stands from 400 to 500 ft. higher, and 
is more convenient for those whose 
main object is to enjoy the sunrise 
from one of the higher peaks. Those 
who remain two or three days will pre¬ 
fer the older house, which is better for 
excursions. The Esel has the advan¬ 
tage of lying further E. than the other 
high peaks of the Pilatus, and thus 
commands a more extensive view of 
the Lake of Lucerne. The summit is 
now provided with a wooden pavilion, 
giving shelter against the keen morn¬ 
ing air to a limited number of visitors. 

The path from Alpnach-Gestaad 
(§ 25, Rte. A) is partly carried along 
a road made by a French Company 
who purchased the forests on the S. 
side of the Pilatus, and partly by a 
track carried along the margin of a 
gorge excavated in the slope of the 
mountain. 4 hrs. are required for the 
ascent from Gestaad, and 2\ hrs. for 
the descent. 

The way from Lucerne by the 
Briindlen Alp involves a longer walk 
than either of the others. A good road 
leads to Krienz, a picturesque village 
within 3 m. of Lucerne. A rough 
track then ascends, mainly through 
forest, to Herrgottswald, a church with 
a little Inn adjoining, commanding a 
beautiful view. This is reached in 
2 hrs. from Lucerne A circuitous 
path, mounting first W. and then S., 
attains, in 2^ hrs. farther, the Briindlen 
Alp, a group of chalets lying in a wild 
hollow below the higher peaks of the 
Pilatus. In the hollow lies the little 
lake which has played a great part in 
the legendary history ot' the mountain. 
Whether the name Pilatus suggested 
the legend, or was derived from it, is 
uncertain, but the popular belief led 


Pontius Pilate to this spot, where after 
many wanderings he was said to have 
drowned himself. The clouds that 
often gather round the top of the 
mountain, and the storms that seem to 
issue from the hollow of the Briindlen 
See, were long thought to originate in 
the struggles of his unquiet spirit. On 
the face of the precipice above the 
Briindlen Alp is the opening of a 
cavern with a vertical pinnacle of rock 
beside it that looks like a colossal 
statue. The popular fancy holds this 
for a likeness of St. Dominic, and the 
cavern, which is qnite inaccessible, is 
called Dominiksloch. The Briindlen 
Alp possesses a remarkable echo. As 
it lies some way west of the topmost 
ridge, it is not seen by most visitors, 
and to this must he attributed the 
singular inference of some English 
travellers, who were led to deny the 
existence both of lake and cavern be¬ 
cause in repeated ascents of the moun¬ 
tain they never happened to light upon 
them. In 1^- hr. from the Briindlen 
Alp the traveller may reach the sum¬ 
mit of the Tomlishorn or that of the 
Esel. 

It is a disputed question whether the 
view from the Pilatus is to be pre¬ 
ferred to that from the Rigi. The 
latter in the writer’s opinion is superior 
as a panorama, being more central in 
regard to the lakes, which are the main 
ingredients in the wonderful series of 
pictures that is there unfolded. The 
Pilatus, on the other hand, is nearer 
by 11 m. to the Oberland Alps, which 
are here far more striking objects than 
they appear in the SW. horizon from 
the Rigi. The mountain itself is more 
alpine in character, and gives a far 
better idea to a stranger of the aspect 
and vegetation of the upper region 
than the gentle slopes and rounded 
summits of the Rigi. The ascent may 
well be recommended to all travellers, 
but especially to those who do not 
intend to view the great peaks of the 
Alps still nearer at hand from some 
commanding point, such as the Faul- 
horn, Niesen, Brevent, &c. The geo- 




ROUTE A.-LAKE OF THE FOREST CANTONS. 


153 


logist ■will not fail to contrast the 
contorted strata of the limestone of 
this mountain with the regular strati¬ 
fication of the conglomerate of the 
Rigi. 

As the journey from Lucerne to 
Altdorf is almost always made by the 
Lake of Lucerne, it will be convenient 
to give here some account of that most 
picturesque ot all European lakes. 
The Lake of Lucerne is called in 
German Vierwaldstatter See, or Lake 
of the Four Forest Cantons, because 
its waters wash the shores of the four 
Cantons whose alliance in the early 
part of the 14th century was the origin 
of the existence of the Swiss nation. 
The scepticism of modern historians 
has called in question the authenticity 
of the records, and even the very ex¬ 
istence of some of the heroes of Swiss 
history. A moderate critic may well 
admit the probability that myth has 
been intermingled with the streamlet 
of fact that has reached us through 
popular tradition ; but it is abundantly 
certain that in an age when nearly all 
Europe lay prostrate under feudal 
tyranny a scanty population of moun¬ 
taineers here successfully struggled for 
freedom, first driving out the local 
oppressors and destroying their strong¬ 
holds, and afterwards encountering in 
the field, and defeating against over 
whelming odds, the chivalry of Ger¬ 
many and France. The recollection 
of such deeds, freshened by a re¬ 
perusal of Schiller’s noble drama of 
‘ Wilhelm Tell ’—the best guide to this 
district—adds no little to the enjoy¬ 
ment of the exquisite scenes amidst 
which they were acted; and the man 
whose spirit is not deeply stirred within 
him as he visits these shores must be 
alike insensible to the sublime in 
nature and in man. 

The form of the L. of Lucerne is 
singularly irregular, and must be em¬ 
barrassing to those geologists who 
believe that the lake-basins of the 
Alps have been excavated by great 
glaciers. To the orographer it appears 
to lie in four different valleys, all 


related to the conformation of the ad¬ 
joining mountains. The central portion 
of the lake lies in two parallel valleys 
whose direction is from E. to W., 
the one lying N., the other S. of the 
ridge of the Biirgenstein. These are 
connected through a narrow strait, 
scarcely ^ m. wide, between the two 
rocky promontories called respectively 
Untere and Obere Nase. It is not 
unlikely that the southern of these two 
divisions of the lake— called Buochser 
See —formerly extended to the W. over 
the isthmus whereon stands the town 
of Stanz, thus forming an island of the 
Biirgenstein. The W. end of the 
main branch of the lake, whence a 
comparatively shallow bay extends to 
the town of Lucerne, is intersected 
obliquely by a deep trench whose SW. 
end is occupied by the branch called 
Alpnacher See, while the NE. branch 
forms the long Bay of Kiissnacht, or 
Kiissnachter See. It will not escape 
notice that these both lie in the direct 
line of a valley that stretches with 
scarcely a break parallel to the chain 
of the Bernese Alps from Interlaken to 
the L. of Zug. At the E. end of the 
Buochser See, where the containing 
walls of the lake-valley are directed 
from ENE, to WSW., it is joined at 
an acute angle by the Bay of Uri, or 
Urner See, lying in the N. prolonga¬ 
tion of the deep cleft that gives a pas¬ 
sage to the Reuss, between the Bernese 
chain and the Alps of N. Switzerland. 
The breadth of these various sections 
of the lake is very variable, but is 
usually between one and two miles 
Its mean height above the sea is 1,437 
ft., and the greates* depth hitherto 
measured 1,140 ft. 

If its dimensions and its singular 
formation forbid the Lake of Lucerne 
to rival the stately grandeur of those 
of Geneva or Garda, it surpasses these 
and all others in Europe in the almost 
infinite variety of its scenery, and in 
the exquisite contrasts which they 
afford. A few minutes suffice, as the 
traveller traverses its surface, to ex¬ 
change a picture of the softest beauty, 




15 i ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. 


§ ^t>. FOREST CANTONS. 


for the sternest aspects of alpine 
wildness. The vegetation of its shores 
is widely different from that of most of 
the Swiss and all the Italian lakes. The 
vine is here absent, and there is little 
sign of tillage; but the villages that 
stand here and there, where the rocks 
leave some space between their base 
and the water’s edge, are surrounded 
by orchards and meadows of the bright¬ 
est green, and shaded by magnificent 
walnut-trees, whose ample foliage 
contrasts forcibly with the dark hues 
of the primseval pine-forest that clothes 
the middle height of the mountains. 

The hurried traveller who can dis¬ 
pose of but one day at Lucerne, and 
who is not bound for the road of the 
St. Gothard, should take the early 
steamer to Fluelen, engage a boat 
thence to Bauen, visit the Griitli, and 
return by evening steamer from 
Brunnen or Beckenried, unless he 
prefer to take a carriage from the 
latter village to Stanzstad, and return 
bv the steamer from thence to Lucerne. 
Those who have not ascended the Rigi 
on the way from Zurich (Rte. B) may 
reach the summit, via Brunnen, 
Schwyz, and Goldau (Rte. C), after 
leaving Lucerne in the morning, and 
returning from Fluelen by boat. 

Those who reach Fluelen by the after¬ 
noon steamer, and sleep at Altdorf, 
may return to Lucerne on the follow¬ 
ing day by the Surenen Pass (Rte. F), 
starting very early, and engaging a 
carriage from Engelberg to Stanzstad. 
No other motive than necessity can, 
however, justify a traveller in hurry¬ 
ing over scenes that require time and 
quiet to be thoroughly enjoyed. 

The Lake of Lucerne is well pro¬ 
vided with means of c» nveyance by 
steamer, as well as by boats that may 
be hired at all the villages on its shores. 
Three or four steamers start daily in 
summer for Fluelen (the port of 
Altdorf), touching at Wiiggis, Vitznau, 
Beckenried, Gersau, and Brunnen. 
There are three departures daily for 
Stanzstad and Alpnach-Gestaad, and 
an equal number for Kussnacht. Tra¬ 


vellers will not fail to obtain the latest 
time-bills, and arrange their plans 
accordingly. 

On quitting the quay at Lucerne, the 
traveller, looking along the bay that 
connects the town with the main body 
of the lake, sees the long ridge of the 
Rigi to the 1., rising above the nearer 
hills, and to the WSW., between the 
rocky summits of the Yitznauer Stock 
on the 1., and the Nieder Bauen on the 
rt., the distant Alps of Uri and Glarus 
culminating in the snowy peak of the 
Todi. As he advances, the Titlis is 
visible for a short time, nearly due S. ; 
and as the valley of Sarnen is opened 
to the 1. of Pilatus, he gains a passing 
glimpse of some of the peaks of the 
Bernese Oberland, including the Wet- 
terhorner and the Schreckhorn. The 
Bay of Kussnacht, opening to NE. 
beyond the point of the Meggenhorn, 
attracts but little attention, the views 
towards Alpnach being far more inter¬ 
esting. The Biirgenstein (4,077'). al¬ 
though not more than 2,600 ft. above 
the lake, rises so abruptly as to form a 
striking feature in the scenery. In 
contrast to its dark aspect, and to the 
rugged outline of the Pilatus in the 
background, the N. shore of the lake, 
along the lower slopes of the Rigi. is 
bright with orchards and picturesque 
farm-houses. In this warm spot the 
chestnut and the fig-tree thrive better 
than they usually do in N. Switzer¬ 
land. 

Wcigyis (Inns: Lion d’Or, close to 
the landing-place; Concordia, fairly 
good ; and several pensions) is the chief 
place on the S. side of the Rigi, and 
frequent resort of tourists. The next 
stopping place of the steamer is Vitznau 
(Inn : Pension Pfeiffer), the terminus 
of the Rigi Railway (see next Rte.;. 
Beyond this the main branch of tho 
lake appears completely closed to the E. 
by the bold range whose chief summit 
is the Vitznauer Stock (4,750'), whence 
the promontory called Obere Nase 
stretches into the lake. A narrow open¬ 
ing to the S. is seen between this and 
the Untere Nase, a corresponding pro- 




ROUTE A.—THE GRUTET. 


155 


montory forming the E. end of the Bur- j 
genstein. This leads into the branch 
of the lake called Buochser See. The 
scenery is here completely changed; i 
the spectator appears to be enclosed by 
mountains hitherto unseen, and it is 
impossible to guess in what direction 
there may be an exit. To the rt. lies 
Enochs (Rte. H), in a hollow between 
the Buochserhorn and the S. side of 
the Biirgenstein, while nearly due S. 
is the steamboat station at 

Beckenried (Inns : Sonne ; Mond ; 
H Feller; visitors taken en pension ), 
whence travellers may proceed by land 
to Stanzstad, or to Seelisberg; see 
Rte. H. The steamer now crosses the 
lake diagonally to the little isolated 
village of 

Gersau( Inns • H. and Pension , Muller; 
Sonne; both good), lying on a steep slope 
on the N. shore, along which a path 
little better than a goat track leads to 
Brunnen. A path to the Rigi has 
been made practicable for mules (see 
Rte B). The secluded position of 
this little community accounts for the 
fact that up to the time of the French 
revolution it formed an independent 
state, owing no political tie to the 
neighbouring cantons, and governed 
by its own local assembly. The pre¬ 
sent population of the entire commune 
is about 1,700. After rounding a 
headland some short way beyond 
Gersau, the traveller enjoys a new and 
beautiful picture. The level valley of 
the Muotta, beset with farm-houses and 
fine trees, extends to the town of Schwy z, 
behind which rise the bold peaks of the 
Mythen. As the steamer approaches 
the promontory of Treib, the far-famed 
Bay of Uri, or Urner See, opens abruptly 
to the S., seen throughout its whole 
length, and in about 2 hrs. from 
Lucerne the boat reaches 

Brunnen ( Inns : H. Waldstadter, new 
large house; Adler; Rossli; Hirsch ; 
besides several pensions), a place of 
some traffic, as it lies in the most direct 
route from most parts of Germany to 
the road of the St. Gothard. It is 
deservedly resorted to by strangers in 


search of mild climate and beautiful 
scenery. Charges for boats and car¬ 
riages exorbitant. The road to Schwyz 
and Arth is described in Rte. C. The 
warehouse,called Sust,has tworudeand 
very ancient frescoes. That representing 
the three confederates of the Griitli is 
said to date from 1315, when the three 
original cantons (Urkantone) renewed 
their oath of alliance after the battle 
of Morgarten. Lucerne joined the 
league only in 1332. 

[Either from Brunnen or from 
Fluelen most travellers take a boat to 
visit the Griitli. It lies on the E. 
side of the promontory of Treib, ljm. 
from Brunnen, and nearly 5 m from 
Fluelen. On the way the traveller 
should remark the bold rock of Mv- 
thenstein, corruptly called Wytenstein, 
rising out of the lake near the point of 
the opposite promontory. It bears the 
following German inscription—‘ Dem 
Sanger Tell’s, Friedrich Schiller; Die 
Urkantone, I860.’ No poet has ever 
had a nobler monument, as none ever 
better earned a nation’s gratitude. 
Keeping along the rocky shore, the 
traveller observes a point where the 
declivity presents a gentler slope, and a 
green meadow planted with trees offers 
easier access from the lake. This is 
the Griitli , or Riitli, where, on the 
night of the 7th October 1307, Walter 
Fiirst of Attinghausen in Uri, Werner 
Stauffacher of Steinen in Schwyz, and 
Arnold an der Halden of Melchthal in 
Unterwalden, each leading 10 trusty 
followers, formed the confederation 
that freed their native cantons from a 
foreign yoke, and founded the inde¬ 
pendence of Switzerland. The popular 
fancy has consecrated the event by a 
legend. Three springs, said to have 
burst out from the spot where the 
leaders stood, are carefully enclosed 
and shown to all visitors. The Griitli 
has lately been purchased by a public 
subscription raised in Switzerland, and 
thus saved from desecration.] 

Passengers for Seelisberg (Rte. H) 
hire a boat at Brunnen to convey them 
to Treib. It is judicious to make a 



15G ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 26. FOREST CANTONS. 


distinct agreement with the boatmen ot 
Brunnen before starting on the lake. 

A new inn (Hotel und Kurhaus 
Axenstein) with pleasure-grounds, ac¬ 
cessible by road, about 2 m. from 
Brunnen, is well spoken of: more 
distant, and much higher up (about 
4,200'), is another new inn and Pension 
on the Stossberg (charge 4 fr. a day, 
without wine) commanding a very fine 
view. From the inn it is easy to reach 
in H hr. the summit of the Frohnalp- 
stnek (5,787'), with a noble view of the 
lake. 

The Bay of Uri is the portion of 
the lake where the scenery attains 
the character of sublimity. It occu¬ 
pies the northernmost and deepest 
portion of the great cleft of the Valley 
of the Reuss, which has cut through 
the Alpine ranges from the St. Gothard 
Pass to the neighbourhood of Schwyz. 
From its E. shore the mountains rise in 
almost bare walls of rock to a height of 
from 3,000 to 4,000 ft. above the water. 
The two highest summits are the 
Frohnalpstock above mentioned, and 
the Axenberg (6,830'). Between them 
the steep glen or ravine of Riemen- 
stalden descends to Sissingen , the only 
hamlet on that side of the lake. On 
the opposite or W. shore, the moun¬ 
tains attain still greater dimensions. 
The Nieder Bauen (6,323') is succeeded 
by the Ober Bauen (6,964'), and farther 
S., above the ridge of the Scharti, ap¬ 
pear the snowy peaks of the Blacken- 
stock (9,686') and the Uri Rothstock 
(9,62 T). In the centre opens the 
valley of the Reuss, backed by the 
rugged summits of the Uri Alps, of 
which the most conspicuous is the 
Bristenstock (10,089'). 

A slight scar is pointed out on the 
rocky face of the Frohnalpstock, and 
marks the spot whence a huge frag¬ 
ment of rock fell into the lake in 1801. 
The wave caused by the shock over¬ 
flowed a part of the village of Sissingen 
(Rte. L), destroyed 5 houses, and 
drowned 9 of the inhabitants. 

On the W. shore, opposite Sissingen, 
is Bauen, the solitary hamlet seen on 


that side, near the opening of the 
Isenthal, an alpine glen, lying between 
the Uri Rothstock and the Ober 
Bauen. See Rte. G. 

At the foot of the Axenberg, whose 
bare rocks descend elsewhere without 
a break to the water’s edge, is seen a 
little shelf of rock whereon stands an 
oratory. This is known as Tells 
Platte, and marks the spot where the 
popular hero of Swiss story sprang 
ashore from Gessler’s boat in the storm, 
when the rudder had been entrusted to 
his strength and skill. Seen from the 
lake it is impossible to trace the narrow 
path along the face of the Axenberg 
by which alone land communication 
was formerly kept up bet ween Brunnen 
a.id Altdorf. A very fine new road 
has been completed at the cost of the 
Federal Government along the E. side 
of the Bav of Uri, intended to connect 
the road of the St. Gothard with the 
N. of Switzerland. 

In less than an hour from Brunnen 
the steamer reaches Fluelen (Inns : 
Adler; Kreuz ; W. Tell; all close to 
the landing-place), a small village ren¬ 
dered unhealthy by the marshy ground 
formed about the head of the lake. 
Works have been undertaken to 
deepen the channel of the Reuss, 
and so drain the land on either bank. 
Here travellers for the St. Gothard 
take their places in the diligence, or 
engage carriages ; those who do not go 
farther may proceed at once in an 
omnibus to Altdorf (Inns: Goldener 
Schliissel. good civil people; Adler, 
also good ; Lowe, fair; Sonne), a 
small town almost completely de¬ 
stroyed by fire in 1799. It is best 
known as the scene of the most dra¬ 
matic incident in the story of William 
Tell. A fountain surmounted by his 
statue, in the middle of the town, 
marks the spot where he is believed to 
have stood, when forced to aim at the 
apple placed on his son’s head, as the 
only chance of saving the child’s life. 
Tradition has fixed on a tower orna¬ 
mented with rude frescoes as the site 
1 of the lime-tree to which the child was 




ROUTE B.— BASLE TO ZURICH. 


157 


bound; but the tower is certainly of 
earlier date than the event, and there 
is more reason to admit that a second 
fountain, about 200 ft. from the first, 
occupies the place of the lime-tree, said 
to have been cut down in 1567. The 
church contains some tolerable pic¬ 
tures, of which the most noticeable is a 
Nativity attributed to Vandyke (?). 

Altdorf is the capital of Uri, the 
poorest and least populous of the Swiss 
cantons, yet, perhaps from regard to 
the memory of Tell, it has been ad¬ 
mitted to rank first among the primi¬ 
tive cantons, or Urkantone. This is 
a place at which many alpine routes 
converge, most of which are noticed 
in this § ; the road of the St. Gothard 
is described in § 30, Rte. A. 

Travellers are sometimes dissuaded 
from engaging a boat to convey them 
from Fluelen to Bauen, Griitli, or Treib, 
by the reported dangers of the naviga¬ 
tion of the Bay of Uri. It is true that 
at times, when the stormy S. wind 
rushes down the valley of the Reuss, it 
is dangerous to venture in a boat upon 
this branch of the lake, but in settled 
weather there is no more reason for 
apprehension here than elsewhere. 


Route B. 

BASLE TO LUCERNE, BY ZURICH. THE 


RIGI. 

Eng. 

miles 

Olten (by railway) , . . 

23* 

Aarau. 

8i 

Zurich. 

31* 

Horgen (by steamer) 

9 

Zug (by road) . 

HI 

Immensee (by steamer) . 

6* 

Kiissnacht (by road) . . 

2 

Lucerne (by road or steamer) 

7* 

99f 


The best arrangement for a Swiss 
tour which is to include the chief lakes 
is to take Zurich on the way to Lu¬ 
cerne, as the Lake of Zurich appears 


tame to one who sees it after enjoying 
the higher beauties of the L. of the 
Forest Cantons. A traveller pressed 
for time may reach Zurich in one day 
from Mayence, Frankfort, or Mann¬ 
heim, by following the Baden Rail¬ 
way to Waldshut, on the rt. bank 
of the Rhine (§ 27 Rte. B), and 
entering Switzerland by the short 
branch rly. connecting Waldshut with 
the Turgi Station on the line from 
Aarau to Zurich. Should he wish, 
however, to see Basle, he will stop at 
the Klein Basel station, and cross the 
Rhine to enter the city ; in which case 
he will do well to take the Swiss Cen¬ 
tral Rly. to Olten and Aarau, and the 
Nordostbalm from thence to Zurich. 

At the Olten Station, 23| m. from 
Basle (§ 23, Rte. A), the line to Aarau 
turns sharply to the 1. or ENE , keep¬ 
ing along the rt. bank of the Aar, which 
here has a very sinuous course. Above 
the opposite bank is the ruined castle 
of Alt Gosgen, where Thomas von Fal- 
kenstein, a robber knight ot‘ infamous 
memory, is said to have first plundered, 
and then starved to death, the unfortu¬ 
nate people who fell into his hands. 

Aarau (Inns: Wilder Maun; Lowe, 
dear, not good ; Ochs; Storch), 8^ m. 
from Olten, a busy manufacturing town 
contains little of interest to a stranger 
except the public library, rich in printed 
books and MSS. connected with Swiss 
history. Zschokke, the historian and 
novelist, lived and died here in 1848. 
The Gislijluh (2,539'), 2 hrs. from the 
town, commands a view of the Alps 
extending in fine weather, as it is said, 
to Mont Blanc. As the rly. passes 
through a tunnel under part of the town, 
travellers who do not stop see very little 
of it. Here the carriages of the Swiss 
Centralbahn are exchanged for those 
of the North-east Rly. leading to Zu¬ 
rich, Romanshorn, &c. 

About 7 m. from Aarau the rly. passes 
the station of Wildegg, where a mineral 
spring of intensely saline and bitter 
taste, containing iodide and bromide 
of sodium, attracts some visitors. The 
waters are chiefly used in conjunction 





158 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 26. FOREST CANTONS. 


with those of the more famous springs 
of Schinznach, adjoining the rly. and 
9 m. from Aarau. The waters there 
supply baths which, after those of Ba¬ 
den. are the most frequented in Switzer¬ 
land, especially by French and Swiss 
visitors. There is a large establishment 
where patients board and take the pre¬ 
scribed course of baths in the adjoining 
building. Sulphur, and salts of soda 
and magnesia, are united in these waters, 
which are said to be very efficacious 
in the treatment of cutaneous diseases, 
gout, old wounds, &c. Their tempera¬ 
ture at the source is 96° Fahr. About 
1 m. distant is the Castle of Habsburg, 
the cradle of the imperial family of 
Austria. The room occupied by Ru¬ 
dolph, the first emperor of the race, is 
still pointed out. The neighbourhood 
is rich in sites of historical interest 
(see below). The Gislifluh may be 
reached from here as easily as from 
Aarau. There is a third mineral spring 
in the vicinity, near the village of 
Birmensdorf on the rt. bank of the 
Reuss. The waters are saline and 
purgative. Roman coins and other 
remains point to their early celebrity. 

The next station to Schinznach, only 
1^ m. distant, is that of 

Brugg or Bruck (Inns: Rossli; Rothes 
Haus), an ancient walled town which 
has produced several men of literary 
eminence. 

‘ The country around Brugg is in¬ 
teresting, both in a geographical and 
historical point of view. In the plain, 
a little below the town, three of the 
principal rivers of Switzerland which 
drain the N. slopes of the Alps from 
the Grisons to the Jura, the Limmat, 
the Reuss, and the Aar, form a junc¬ 
tion, and, united under the name of 
the Aar, throw themselves into the 
Rhine about 10 m. below Brugg, at a 
place called Coblenz. 

‘ Close upon this meeting of the 
waters, and on the triangular tongue 
of land between the Aar and Reuss, 
stood Vindonissa , the most important 
settlement of the Romans in Helvetia, 
as well as their strongest fortress on 


this frontier, on which they placed 
their chief dependence for maintain¬ 
ing this portion of their empire. Its 
works extended 12 m. from N. to S. 
Yet scarcely any portion of it now 
appears above ground; traces of an 
amphitheatre, a subterranean aque¬ 
duct which conveyed water from 
Brauneggberg, 3 m. off, foundations 
of walls, broken pottery, inscriptions, 
and coins, have been turned up by the 
spade from time to time, and its name 
is preserved in that of the miserable 
little village of Windisch.’ —[M.] 

It is to the Huns under Attila, fol¬ 
lowed by the Franks under Cliildebert, 
that the utter destruction of this great 
city and fortress has been attributed. 

About 1 m. from the town stood the 
famous Abbey of Konigsfelden, founded 
in 1310 on the spot where the Emperor 
Albert was murdered two years before. 
The present buildings contain little of 
interest, excepting the church, where 
lie the bodies of the knights who fell 
on the imperial side at Morgarten and 
Sempach, whose portraits are rudely 
pictured on the walls. The bones of 
several princes of the imperial house 
were removed in 1770. The stained 
glass windows, representing the murder 
of the emperor and other events of the 
same period, have survived the many 
vicissitudes which the building has 
undergone. The person who has charge 
of the building keeps for sale Romav 
antiquities found on the site of Vin- 
donissa. Little more than 2 m. beyond 
Brugg is the Turgi Station, where pas¬ 
sengers arriving by a short branch rly. 
connecting Waldshut in the Duchy of 
Baden with Zurich and the N. of 
Switzerland join the main line from 
Aarau. About 3 m. farther is 
Baden . a very ancient town, ad¬ 
joining the most frequented watering- 
place in Switzerland. There is an Hotel 
(Bahnhof) at the Rly. Station, and 
several Inns in the town ( Waage, Linde, 
Lowe), but most travellers go to the 
Baths. The towm-hall was once the 
place of meeting of the Swdss Confe¬ 
deration. The castle whose ruins crown 




ROUTE B.-ZURICH. 


159 


the adjoining hill -was in the middle 
ages an important stronghold belonging 
to the House of Austria, till in 1415 
it was taken and burnt by the Swiss. 

The Baths are about i m. from the 
town near the banks of the Limmat, 
and are divided into two establishments: 
Grosse Bader, frequented by the higher 
class of visitors; Kieine Bader, by those 
of inferior social position. At the first 
are several Hotels (Stadthof, best; 
Schiff; Freihof; Verenahof; Limmat- 
hof; Schweizerhof, &c.). The waters 
of Baden have been known and prized 
since the time of the Romans, to whom 
thev were known as Thermae Helvetieae. 

V 

They burst out from numerous sources 
at a very high temperature, varying 
from 104° to 122° Fahr., and are so 
abundant that each of the chief hotels 
is directly supplied with baths, without 
the necessity for leaving the house. 
They are chiefly valued for the treat¬ 
ment of gout, rheumatism, and scrofula, 
being taken internally as well as by 
baths, douches, etc. The number of 
visitors has amounted in some seasons 
to 15.000. The habits of the place are 
more quiet and involve less of social 
intercourse than at most of the German 
watering-places. Being little above 
the level of the Limmat, near its con¬ 
fluence with the Aar and the Rhine, 
there are few places in Switzerland 
that lie so low as these baths—only 
1,076 ft. above the sea level. In clear 
weather distant views of the Alps may 
be gained from the neighbouring hills, 
e.g. the Baldegg (1,87 7') and the Hoch 
wacht (2,808'). The latter is one of 
the summits of the Lagern, a range of 
hills on the rt. of the Limmat, forming 
the extreme E. termination of the 
Jura range, though this is usually 
supposed to be limited by the junction 
of the Aar, Reuss, and Limmat near 
Brugg. 

The rly. passes under the castle hill, 
anciently called Stein zu Baden, keep¬ 
ing to the 1. bank of the Limmat. On 
the opposite bank may be seen the 
modernized remains of the Cistercian 
Abbey of Wettingen. The church 


contains a sarcophagus where the body 
of the murdered Emperor Albert lay 
for some time. The painted glass and 
carved stalls are said to deserve in¬ 
spection. Roman remains abound in 
this part of Switzerland. A curious 
inscription is built into the wall of the 
parish church of Wettingen. About 
7 m. from Baden is Dietikon (Inn : 
Goldener Lowe). The valley of the 
Limmat was the theatre of war between 
the Austrians and French in-the bloody 
campaign of 1799. About i5m. from 
Baden, or nearly 40 m. from Olten, the 
rly. reaches 

Zurich (Inns; Hotel Baur, and 
Pension Baur au Lac, two first-rate 
establishments belonging to the same 
proprietor; the first, in the centre of 
the town, best suited for passing travel¬ 
lers ; the second, on the lake, is quieter, 
better for those remaining some days or 
weeks—both clean, charges not cheap, 
but not unreasonable—pension at 8 to 10 
fr., according to rooms occupied, except 
from 1 July to 15 Sept. ; H. Bellevue, 
on the rt. bank, fine view, very good, 
charges same as at II. Baur; Ziiricher- 
hof, formerly Couronne, much enlarged 
and improved, well managed and con- 
venientfortourists ; Schweizerhof,good 
and reasonable ; Schwerdt, near the 
central bridge, said to be rather dear; 
Falke or Faucon, good and cheap; 
Storch; Schwan ; Sonne; Rdssli; 
H. Scheller: the last five are chiefly 
commercial). This is the centre of 
the chief manufacturing district of 
Switzerland, and contains one of the 
most thriving and active communities 
in the country, but does not offer such 
attractions for strangers as many other 
Swiss towns. It is divided by the 
Limmat into two unequal portions— 
the Grosse Stadt on the 1., and the 
Kieine Stadt on the rt. bank—both of 
which partly front the lake at the point 
where the river issues from it. The 
lesser stream of the Si hi, which rises 
in the Alps of Schwyz, and flows 
parallel with the Lake of Zurich for 18 
or 20 m., often approaching within a mile 
of its shores, joins the uimmat at the 




1G0 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 2G. FOREST CANTONS. 


N. end of the town, so that the Grosse 
Stadt is built on a peninsula enclosed 
between the two streams. The only 
building of much interest is the chief 
church, or Gross Munster, a Roman¬ 
esque building of the 10th or 11th 
century, with a crypt, cloisters, and 
architectural details interesting to the 
antiquary. It was the scene of Zwin- 
glis preaching, and his house is still 
pointed out—No. 185 in the Grosse 
Stadt. The Town Library is consi¬ 
derable, and contains amongst its 
numerous MSS. autographs of Lady 
Jane Grey, Henry IV., J. J. Rousseau, 
Zwingli, and Frederick II. of Prussia. 
Among various curious objects pre¬ 
served in the same building is an in¬ 
teresting collection of fossils, amongst 
which is the famous reptilian skeleton— 
the homo diluvii testis of Scheuchzer. 
In the same building is the collection 
of the Antiquarian Society, especially 
rich in objects of interest from the 
Pfahlbauten, or Lake habitations, which 
have recently excited so much general 
attention. The illustrations of the ! 
implements, food, clothing, and arts 
of the earliest inhabitants of the 
country may almost vie in complete¬ 
ness with those furnished in the case 
of the Romans by the Museo Bor- 
bonico at Naples. The Eidgenossische 
Polytechnicum is a fine modern build¬ 
ing on the NE. side of the town. 
Many distinguished men, some of them 
political exiles, have been professors 
in the University here during the 
comparatively short period since the 
foundation of the institution. The 
New Botanical Garden on the site of 
one of the ancient bastions is prettily 
laid out, and is one of the best points 
for enjoying the view over the 
lake, which is especially beautiful at 
sunset. 

The position of Zurich is very 
pleasing, and the view of the lake 
(though more contracted) may be com¬ 
pared with that from Geneva. The 
banks rise in swelling hills covered 
with villages and villas, and in clear 
weather the distant ranges of the 


Glarus and Uri Alps form a beautiful 
background to the picture. TheGliir- 
nisch is conspicuous to the SE., and 
turning gradually to the rt. this is 
followed by the Biferten Stock, and 
the Tbdi, which is the last to catch 
the rays of the setting sun. Then 
comes the Scheerhorn, between which 
and the Windgelle are the bold but 
much nearer summits of the Mjthen; 
next is the Bristenstock. followed by 
the Blackenstock and the Urirothstock. 
'I'he view is closed, to the 1. by the 
green summit of the Utliberg. Of the 
many agreeable excursions from the 
town, the following may be mentioned: 

An Inn on a hill, called Auf der 
Waid, by the old road to Baden on 
the rt. bank of the Limmat, commands 
one of the best views over the lake. 
It is reached on foot in 1 hr. from the 
town : charge for a cab 3 fr., or if 
more than two passengers 4^ fr. The 
Utliberg , one of the summits of the 
Albis range, probably commands the 
finest panoramic view of the Swiss 
I Alps that is to be found at any point 
of such moderate elevation — only 
2,864 ft The very fair Inn at the 
summit, apt to be overcrowded on 
Saturday evenings, may be reached 
in 2 hrs. from Zurich Leaving the 
town by the Bleicherweg and pass¬ 
ing the hamlet of Enge, it is neces¬ 
sary to avoid a road that turns to the 
1. and leads along the W. side of the 
lake. After a slight ascent the travel¬ 
ler reaches a foot-bridge over the Sihl, 
and soon finds a foot-path up hill 
that takes him to the Inn called Albis- 
giitli, where horses (charge. 4 fr.) are 
let for the ascent. The track is well 
marked; on the way is a monument 
to F. Diirler, an active mountaineer, 
and one of the earliest climbers of the 
Todi, who lost his life from a careless 
slip in descending this hill. To the 
rt., near the top, is a short cut up the 
rocks fit only for practised climbers. 
The panorama includes, in addition to 
that seen from lower stations near the 
town, the Sentis Alps in Appenzell, the 
Piz Linard and other peaks of the 






ROUTE B.—ZUG. 


1G1 


Lower Engadme, the Titlis and Susten- 
liorn, and all the principal summits of 
the Oberland Alps. 

A railway is now open between 
Zurich and Zug, and thence to Lucerne, 
convenient for those who do not care to 
see the country. Most travellers choose 
the way by Horgen noticed below; but 
there is a third very agreeable road, 
practicable in a light carriage but plea¬ 
sant for the pedestrian. This lies over 
the range of the Albis hills, which run 
parallel to the lake for 10 or 12 m. 
The road leaves the W. shore of the 
lake at Wollishofen, crosses the Sihl 
about 5 m. from Zurich, and mounting 
in zigzags for 3^ m. more, attains the 
summit, where a fine view is gained 
at a country inn (Ober-Albis). The 
Hochwacht (2,887')* commanding a 
wider panorama, is ^ hr. distant. De¬ 
scending by wooded slopes, the road 
passes Hausen, a thriving village, near 
to which is the frequented hydropathic 
establishment called Albishrunn, prettily 
situated about 2,000 ft. above the sea. 
By this road Zug is about 18 m. from 
Zurich. 

The Lake of Zurich , owing to its uni¬ 
form and moderate breadth, presents 
the appearance of a great river, as, 
while it is fully 26 m. long, it is rarely 
more than 2 m. broad. Its mean height 
above the sea is 1,341 ft., and its greatest 
depth about 640 ft. The shores every¬ 
where bear traces of cultivation and 
industry, not contrasted with the 
wilder features that appear in most of 
the alpine lakes. Steamers start seven 
teen times a day for Horgen and 
Richterschwyl, touching at many in¬ 
termediate points, and nine times daily 
for Rapperschwyl. (See §27,Rte. A.) 

Passengers for the Rigi usually leave 
Zurich by the earliest steamer, which 
reaches Horgen (Inns: Meyerhof; 
Lowe ; Schwan) in less than f hr. Car¬ 
riages for Zug cost—with one horse, 10 
fr.; with two horses,! 6fr.; besides trink- 
geld. Places by diligence may be taken 
on board the steamer. [The Hochwacht 
(see above) may be reached from 
Horgen in less time than from Zurich.] 

PART II. 


The old road mounted by a short hut 
steep ascent to the ridge, called Horger- 
eck, which divides the lake from the 
valley of the Sihl, while the new road 
makes a circuit, rejoining the other 
before reaching the Sihlbrucke, a roofed 
bridge, by which the Canton Zug is 
entered. A hilly road carried through 
pretty scenery, and giving occasional 
glimpses of the higher mountains, 
passes Baar, a village with a curious 
ossuary, where the Albis road is joined, 
and finally descends towards the Lake 
of Zug. The diligence takes 2^ hrs. 
from Horgen to reach 

Zug (Inns: Hirsch, good; Lowe, 
smaller and cheaper, on the lake; 
Bellevue ; Hecht; Krone). Refresh¬ 
ments at the rly. station. Trains to 
Zurich and Lucerne 6 times a day. 
This ancient little town is the capital of 
the smallest of the Swiss Cantons. In 
this district there prevails a very cu¬ 
rious custom by which the surviving 
members of a family show their re¬ 
spect for the dead. The skulls are 
extracted from the graves after a cer¬ 
tain number of years, and placed in an 
ossuary or bone-house, attached to a 
church, each having a label with the 
name and date of birth and death. It 
is said that in some families the skulls 
are kept in glass cases in the house. 
A large ossuary may be seen at the 
Church of St. Michael outside the 
town. A landslip occurred at Zug in 
1435 which carried a whole street, with 
a part of the town walls, into the lake. 
The chief magistrate of the Canton 
and 44 others (some say 59) were 
drowned. Another less fatal accident 
of the same kind is recorded in 1549. 

The landlord of the Bellevue has 
opened a pension at a pretty place called 
Felsenegg, on the hill above the town : 
charge, 4 to 6 fr. daily. Rather farther 
isSchonbrunn. an establishment directed 
by Dr. Hegglin for the treatment of 
invalids by hydropathy, whey, or goats’ 
milk. It stands at 2,515 fr. above the 
sea, and is reached in 1^ hr. from the 
town. 

The best points of view are the 








1G2 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 26. FOREST CANTONS. 


tower of the Capuchin Convent in the 
town, the little castle of Cham at the 
N. end of the lake, or the Zugerberg, 
(3,222') E. of the town. 

The Lake of Zug is a sheet of water 
nearly 9 m long by 3 m. broad, 
1.369 ft. above the sea, and about 
1,280 ft. deep. Its main characteristic 
is an aspect of stillness that contrasts 
in a marked way with the busy air of 
t**e banks of the neighbouring L. of 
Zurich. The Rigi, which here shows 
a much bolder front than towards the 
L. of Lucerne, rears a vast precipi¬ 
tous slope along the S. end of the lake, 
and seems to brood over its quiet 
shores. Travellers who do not intend 
to halt between Zurich and the Rigi or 
Lucerne should engage their places in 
Zurich, or on board the steamer, direct 
to Arth or Immensee, or else to Lu¬ 
cerne by Kiissnacht, and so avoid pay¬ 
ing porters for the carriage of their 
luggage at each intermediate station. 
Rigi tourists will usually send their 
heavy luggage to Lucerne or Schwyz. 
They already find at Zug persons who 
offer their services as guides, and under¬ 
take to procure horses, &c., and are 
destined to undergo a renewal of these 
attentions throughout the whole route. 
There is a good road traversed by 
omnibuses from Zug to Arth (about 
9 m.) along the E. shore of the lake 
(see Rte. C), but most travellers prefer 
the steamer which starts three times a 
day, touching first at Immensee, and 
then at Arth. By far the larger num¬ 
ber of travellers who reach the Lake of 
Zug from Zurich make the view from 
the Rigi the first object of their jour¬ 
ney ; but others content themselves with 
the view of that mountain, and pro¬ 
ceed at once to Lucerne. In that case 
they Lmd from the steamer at Immensee 
(Inn: H. du Kigi, fairly good and rea¬ 
sonable). An omnibus takes passen¬ 
gers across the neck of land that 
separates the Lakes of Zug and Lu¬ 
cerne. The distance is scarcely 2 m. 
About half-way the road is carried 
through the Hoh 7 e Gasse, or ‘ hollow 
way,’ memorable as the spot where 


Tell, after escaping from Gessler’s 
boat on the Bay of Uri, hastened to 
lie in wait for the oppressor, and slew 
him by a holt from his unerring cross 
how. The spot is scarcely to be re¬ 
cognised since the trees and banks 
were cleared away in the construction 
of the new carnage road. A little 
farther, on the 1., is the remaining 
tower of Gessler’s Castle, and a slight 
descent then leads to 

Kiissnacht (Inns: Seehof; Schwar- 
zer Adler), a large village at the end 
of that branch of the L. of Lucerne tc< 
which it gives its name. Steamers 
start twice a day for Lucerne, reaching 
the town in 50 min. There is a road 
along the lake traversed by the dili¬ 
gence from Schwyz, and passing near 
the castle of New Habsburg, noticed 
in Rte. A. 

The Rigi is an extensive mass of 
mountain occupying the greater part 
of the space lying between the lakes of 
Lucerne, Zug, and Lowerz. It owes 
the advantage of its position, not only 
to having no higher mountains in its 
immediate neighbourhood, but to the 
fact that in almost every direction a 
sheet of water at its base rests between 
the spectator and the distant panorama. 

The mountain is in great part com¬ 
posed of nagelflue, a conglomerate be 
longing to the miocene period, which 
has undergone violent disturbance since 
its original deposition. The geolo¬ 
gist will not fail to examine the 
neighbourhood of the Rigi Scheidegg, 
where he will see the order of the 
strata actually reversed—the creta¬ 
ceous and eocene rocks overlying the 
miocene conglomerate ! The flora is 
not particularly rich. Epipogium Gme- 
lini, Lathrea sqnamaria, and some 
other uncommon plants, are found on 
the slopes towards the L. of Lucerne, 
and the beautiful Dianthus snperhus is 
plentiful on the steep slopes N. of the 
Rigi Staffel. 

The most interesting points on 
the Rigi are the highest summit, or 
Rigi Kulm (5,905'), Rigi Roth stuck 
(5,545'), Rigi Staff el (5,210'), and the 



ROUTE B. 


KTJSSNACIIT TO TIIE RIGI. 


163 


Pigi Scheidegg (5,406'). Nearly the 
whole of the upper part of the moun¬ 
tain serves as pasturage for cattle. 

No other mountain in Europe is so 
much visited by strangers, it being 
said that from 20,000 to 25,000 make 
the ascent annually, and nowhere else 
is there such abundant provision for 
their reception. It must be owned, even 
by those who prefer spots where they 
encounter less of crowd and bustle, 
that in this instance the general choice 
is justified by the extreme beauty of 
the position, and by the comparative 
ease with which the excursion may be 
made. From the eight principal vil¬ 
lages near the base of the mountain 
safe paths lead to the top, all but one 
passable for horses; and two large 
hotels close to the summit, besides 
several lower down, offer accommoda¬ 
tion for the night. The concourse of 
visitors has been further increased by 
the opening of a railway from Vitznau, 
on the Lake of Lucerne, to the Rigi 
Staffel, further noticed below. It is 
wise to order rooms by electric tele¬ 
graph, and even to desire an answer 
stating the number of each room so 
secured. It is in every way advisable 
to arrive at the summit some time 
before sunset, to secure the evening 
view, which is more often clear than 
at sunrise, and is in itself equally beau¬ 
tiful. The lover of quiet may do well 
to view the sunset from the Rigi Roth- 
stock, reached in little more than \ hr. 
from the Kulm, but the sunrise should 
always be viewed from the actual sum¬ 
mit. 

The tariff for horses, porters, See., 
has been frequently altered, and some¬ 
times altogether suspended, in conse¬ 
quence of disputes between the local 
and cantonal authorities. It is believed 
that the rates named below are now in 
force, but the latest information must be 
sought in the inns near at hand. Every 
boy in the country can show the way to 
the top, and is glad to do so for 1 or 2 fr. 

Horses. From Kiissnacht, Immensee, 

Goldau. or Waggis, to the Kulm, 

tor each horse . . . .10 fr. | 

jyi 


For returning next mor. ing to the 
place of starting ... 6 i r 

For descending to any oth»-r of the 
above places. . . . 10 ,, 

From Gersau to the Kuim . . 12 ,, 

For leturmng thither next morn¬ 
ing .10 „ 

Chaises - a-porteu r, or Tragsessel. For 
each bearer— 

From Kiissnacht, Immensee, Arth, 

Goldau or Waggis to the Kulm . 6 „ 

For returning next morning to the 
place of starting . . . 5 fr. 30 c. 

From Arth or Goldau to the Staffel 5 fr 

For returning.4§ „ 

From Waggis or Kiissnacht to the 

Staffel. 4$ „ 

For returning . . . . 3 fr. sO c. 

From Gersau to the Kulm . . 8 fr. 

For returning . . . . 7 fr- 30 c. 

From Gersau to the Scheidegg . 44 fr. 

For returning .... 3 fr. 80 C. 

N.B. For tho ascent three or four bearers 
must be taken, . ccording to the weight of the 
traveller. In descending, two beaiers suffice. 

Porters. For a weight not exceeding 
20 lbs. — 

From Kiissnacht or Immensee to 

the K' lm.2 fr. 

From Kiissnacht or Immensee to 

the Staffel . . . . i| ,, 

From Arth, Goldau, Gersau, or 

Waggis to ihe Kulm . . . 3 „ 

From Arth. Goldau, or Waggis to 

the Staffel.2 „ 

From Gersau to the St. ffel . . 24 ,, 

To a person in the least used to find 
his own way, a guide is unnecessary; 
but unpractised mountaineers should 
keep to the beaten track. Some extra 
covering should be taken, as the nights 
and mornings are often cold. 

With a view to assist travellers in 
choosing the most suitable course, a 
short notice of each of the paths lead¬ 
ing to the summit is here given, with 
the preliminary remark that the paths 
by Kiissnacht or Waggis are the most 
direct for the ascent from Lucerne, 
those by Immensee or Arth for that 
from Zug, those hv Goldau or Lowerz 
for that from Schwyz, while that from 
Gersau is best suited for passengers 
from Altdorf. 

1. By Kiissnacht. This way is some¬ 
times preferred by travellers coming 
from Lucerne who mean to descend by 
Waggis, but. is rather hot in the after¬ 
noon. and not very interesting. It is 
best suited for those who descend the 
m untain in had weather, and whose 
2 




164 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 26. FOREST CANTONS. 


main object is to reach Lucerne as 
soon as possible. The ascent by this 
and the next path is rather shorter and 
steeper tlian by the others; 3£ hrs. 
suffice for the ascent, and about for 
the descent The track turns to the 
rt from the road to Immensee as it 
leaves the village of Kiissnacht, and, 
passing near the ruins of Gessler’s 
Castle, mounts gently for about ^ hr. 
when a sign-post with the words ‘ Auf 
die Rigi ’ points to the path that 
begins to mount more rapidly. In 1 
hr more it reaches the Seeboden Alp, 
where refreshments tempt the passing 
traveller. A little farther this path 
joins that from Immensee. On ap¬ 
proaching the upper part of the moun¬ 
tain it bends somewhat to the rt, and 
ascends diagonally across steep grassy 
slopes, above which are seen the rocky 
ledges that extend along the N. face of 
the mountain. These are higher and 
steeper to the 1. where they face the 
Lake of Zug, while towards the rt. 
they come to an end at a point close to 
the Rigi Stajf'el (5,209'), where the 
upper plateau of the mountain is reached 
in less than 3 hrs. from Kiissnacht. All 
the regular tracks leading to the summit 
unite opposite to a large inn called 
Staffelhaus, where very lair accommo¬ 
dation is found at prices rather lower 
than at the Knlm. It is, however, de¬ 
cidedly inferior in position, and except! 
when the other houses are full few 
travellers will be tempted to halt 
here. An easy ascent of \ hr. in a 
NE. direction, at rt. angles to that 
hitherto followed, leads from hence to 
the Kulm. 

In ascending from Kiissnacht or 
Immensee the mountaineer may take a 
rough, steep, and slippery path, turning 
to the 1. from the bridle-path about 
20 min. below the Staffelhaus; this 
leads direct to the very top of the 
mountain, saving ^ hr. in the ascent. 
It is, however, little used, and not 
easily found without a guide, being 
intermixed with sheep or goat tracks 
that are likely to lead a traveller into I 
difficulties. 


2. By Immensee. This is the shortest 
course for travellers reaching the 
mountain from the side of Zug, and is 
especially suited for those who ride, as 
the path from Arth is not fit for horses. 
It is longer by £ hr. than that from 
Kiissnacht, but as it lies in great part 
along a projecting ridge of the moun¬ 
tain it is much exposed to the after¬ 
noon sun. It joins the Kiissnacht 
path, near to the Seeboden Alp, as 
mentioned above. The traveller may 
lunch at a neat chalet, where he finds 
good bread, milk, butter, &c., just 
below the steeper part of the ascent. 

3. From Arth. This and the two 
paths next described have the advan¬ 
tage of lying on the shady side of the 
mountain, and being little exposed to 
the afternoon sun, a point of some con¬ 
sequence at the beginning of a Swiss 
tour. Many will think it a further 
advantage that the view of the L. of 
Lucerne and the chain of the Bernese 
Alps is not seen till near the top of the 
mountain, and is thus enhanced by the 
charm of surprise. The path from 
Arth is more shady and rather shorter 
than that from Goldau, but is also 

very rough and scarcely fit for horses. 
On leaving the village of Arth (Rte. C) 
the path crosses some meadows, pass¬ 
ing the chapel of St. George, and on 
reaching the foot of the mountain at 
i once commences a steep ascent by a 
very rough path through a forest, 
amidst rocks and the roots of trees. 
At a small waterfall there is a path to 
the rt. which must be avoided. The 
true course continues to mount nearly 
due S. till in little more than 1 hr. it 
reaches a rough inn called Unter 
Diichli, where the path joins the 
bridle-track from Goldau. This is a 
favourable point for viewing the Ross- 
berg. The effects of the great cata¬ 
strophe of 1806 (see Rte. C) are still 
distinctly traceable. The course of 
the regular path from hence to the 
summit is circuitous, but for the most 
part very easy. It follows a line of 
| pilgrimage chapels or oratories that 
I extend to the little church of S. Maria 





KOUTE B. — GERSAU TO THE RIGI. 


IG5 


sram Schnee, commonly called Klosterli. 
By the 8th oratory, called Malchus 
Kapelle, | hr. above Unter Dachli, 
the path from Lowerz joins the united 
path from Arth and Goldau. A little 
higher up, at the Heilige Kreuz 
Kapelle, where an iron cross is fixed 
in a block of stone, a path turns to the 
rt. and mounts by a nearly direct 
course to the Kulm. This may suit a 
mountaineer pressed for time, but is 
not fitted fbr ordinary tourists, being 
steep and fatiguing. In 1 hr. from 
Unter Dachli the bridle-path reaches 
the Klosterli, where three or four 
monks remain throughout the year, 
being sometimes confined within doors 
for many weeks in winter. The 
church is frequented by pilgrims, espe¬ 
cially on the 5th August. Here are 
several small Inns, the best of which 
are the Schwert and Sonne, affording 
rough but clean quarters, where some 
invalids come to drink goat’s whey, 
and live en pension at 3^ fr. a day. 
About j hr. above the Klosterli is the 
Bruderbahn , a cavern said to be worth 
a visit for its stalactites. The traveller 
is tempted to make a short cut to the 
rt. to reach the Kulm, but the rough 
ground and slippex*y slopes of grass 
pre vent him from gaining time by so 
doing. It is better to follow the beaten 
track, which in about f hr. from the 
Klosterli reaches the Staffelhaus, where 
the traveller gains the first view of 
the L. of Lucerne, and joins the other 
routes leading to the Kulm. From 3^ 
to 3£ hrs. are required for the ascent 
from Arth. 

4. From Goldau. The ascent to 
Unter Dachli is a little longer and 
much easier than from Arth. This is 
one of the best routes for those who 
ride, as the path is well kept. From 
3^ to 3f hrs. are required. 

5. From Lowerz. This is even easier 
than that last mentioned, and is said 
to offer the gentlest ascent of any of 
the Rigi paths. The road from 
Lowerz to Goldau (Rte. C) is followed j 
for about 1 m. The ascent then begins, j 
and after passing a place called Fallen- j 


boden, mounts gradually, in part 
through forest, till as above mentioned 
it joins the Goldau path at the Malchus 
Kapelle. 

6. From Gersau. This is the longest 
but the most beautiful of all the paths 
leading to the Rigi. It offers the 
most direct way for those coming from 
the road of the St. Gothard by the 
lake steamers, but may well be taken 
from Lucerne by travellers who do 
not object to a detour. The ascent 
commences through fields and mea¬ 
dows behind the village of Gersau 
(Rte. A). At the pastures of Brand 
there is a fine view into the ravine of 
the Tiefentobel. On the rt. is a 
pretty cascade of the Rohrlibach, and 
a steeper ascent amidst fallen rocks 
leads first to the Giebelgiiter, and then, 
in hr. from Gersau, to a rough but 
clean country Inn at Unter Gescliwand, 
commanding a very fine view to the 
S. and SE. The path continues to 
mount by a chapel dedicated to St. 
Joseph to the Ober Geschwand. 
Here, a path to the rt leads to Lowerz, 
while the true course lies a little W. of 
N. traversing a succession of alpine 
pastures, and in 2^ hrs. reaches the 
Rigi Scheidegg. Here, near the sum¬ 
mit of the E. plateau of the mountain, 
stands a large Hotel commanding 
a very fine view. The accommoda¬ 
tion and attendance are said to be 
very satisfactory, and the charges 
moderate. Many Swiss families re¬ 
main here en pension, paying from 5 
to 6 fr. daily, without wine. This 
would be the best head-quarters for a 
naturalist wishing to remain some 
days on the mountain. An undu¬ 
lating path leads WNW. over moun¬ 
tain pastures in 1 hr. to the Klosterli, 
or S Maria zum Schnee (see No. 3— 
Path from Arth), whence the Kulm is 
reached in l| hr. more, or fully 5 hrs.’ 
average walking, exclusive of halts, 
from Gersau. The distances by this 
route are erroneously given in most 

j guide-books. 

7. Descent to Wdggis. By which - 
j ever of the paths hitherto described a 



106 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 26. FOREST CANTONS. 


traveller may reach the summit of the 
Rigi, there can be no doubt that he 
ought in fine weather to prefer the 
descent by the S. side of the mountain 
either to Wiiggis or Vitznau The 
exquisite views over the L. of Lucerne 
leave on many minds quite as deep an 
impression as the panorama from the 
summit. The ascent by this way is 
not equally to be recommended. The 
traveller has his back turned to the 
lake, and his face towards the glowing 
rocks and steep slopes that have felt 
the heat of the sun through the warm 
hours of the day. 

From the Staffelhaus, where, as 
already mentioned, all the bridle- 
tracks leading to the Kulm converge, 
the pedestrian ’about to descend to 
Wiiggis may make a slight detour of 
f hr. to the summit of the Riyi 
Rothstock , which commands a large 
part of the L. of Lucerne not seen 
from the Kulm, and is perhaps a 
preferable point for enjoying the 
sunset. A gentle descent over bright 
green pastures leads in 1 hr. from 
the Kulm to the Kaltbad; but before 
reaching that establishment the pedes¬ 
trian should not omit to turn aside in 
order to reach a point called the 
Kanzeli, marked by a wooden cross 
and one or two benches, commanding 
a view which, in the writer’s opinion, 
surpasses that from the Rothstock, 
and, in some respects, even that from 
the Kulm. This is the extreme W. 
angle of the mountain, and overlooks 
the four arms of the L. of Lucerne that 
meet in the central basin lying 
between the spectator and the Pilatus. 
This spot, whence, as from an advanced 
bastion, the beautiful shores of the 
lake are seen stretched out at the 
traveller’s feet, while the opposite 
mountains are backed by the peaks of 
the snowy chain, is but 10 minutes’ 
walk from th aRigi Kaltbad (4,728'). The 
Hotel and hydropathic establishment has 
been rebuilt of late years on the same 
plan as the hotel at the Rigi Scheidegg 
mentioned above, which stands higher 
by 600 or 700 ft. This commands the 


finer view, and is more expensive— 
pension 6 fr. daily, exclusive of charges 
for room, whey, wine, attendance, 
and baths. A spring of very pure water, 
apparently free from mineral salts, issues 
from the rock at a constant tempera¬ 
ture of 41° Fahr. The effects of pure 
mountain air and water, with regular 
living, in some cases combined with 
baths, or with goat's milk or goat’s 
whey, are found to be very beneficial 
to a certain class of invalids, especially 
those suffering from the effects of 
intermittent fever, disordered nerves, 
and requiring tonic treatment. The 
house is better fitted up than most oi 
the others on the mountain, and is 
often quite full. The descent lies 
for some way SSE., and after leav¬ 
ing to the 1. the track to Vitznau, 
reaches the Hochstein, where the 
path passes under a natural arch 
formed by a huge block of nagelflue 
resting on two others, and bears to 
the rt. or WSW. along steep ledges 
of rock, attaining in less than 1 hr. 
from the Kaltbad the Heiligenkreuz 
Kapelle, an oratory where a bench 
near at hand invites travellers to rest 
and enjoy the view, while beer and 
other refreshments are offered at an 
adjoining shed. The descent becomes 
less steep as the track reaches the 
meadows and pastures planted with 
fine walnut and chestnut trees that 
cover the lower slopes of the mountain. 
Little traces remain of a singular 
event which, according to Ebel, 
occurred in *795. The strata of the 
nagelflue, as is plain to every ob¬ 
server, alternate between harder beds 
formed of well-cemented conglomerate, 
and softer layers wherein reddish 
earth and sand predominate. It 
appears that at the date in question 
some of these softer layers, whose 
exposed section is seen about the 
middle height of the mountain, had 
become thoroughly impregnated with 
w ater either from rain or landsprings, 
and yielded to the enormous pressure of 
the superincumbent rocks. The ma¬ 
terials were squeezed out in the form 






ROUTE B.-RIC.I KULM. 


167 


of a slowly-moving stream of reddish 
mud, that occupied a whole fortnight 
in descending to the bank of the lake. 
Waggis (Rte. A) is less than 1 hr. 
distant from the Heiligenkreuz Ka- 
pelle, or about g| hrs. from the Kulm. 
3^ to 3| are required for the ascent. 

8. Railway from Vitznau. The least 
frequented of all the paths leading to the 
Rigi Kulm was that from Vitznau 
until a Swiss engineer started the bold 
project of carrying a railway up the 
steep slope of the mountain, and se¬ 
lected that village as the terminus. It 
has for some time been open as far as 
the Staffelhaus, mentioned above, and 
may probably be extended to ihe Kulm 
during the present season. The length 
is somewhat under 4 miles, and the 
difference of height nearly 4,000 ft., so 
that the average slope is about 1 in 5, 
but in parts as much as 1 in 4. There 
is little masonry, the rails being in 
most places sustained on iron columns. 
A central driving wheel with deep cogs 
works in a massive central rail, and a 
single large passenger carriage is pro¬ 
pelled before the engine. The pace is 
slow, and it is said that in case of need 
the carriages can be instantly stopped. 
Four trains start daily—ascent lj hr., 
descent 1 hr.—and additional trains are 
despatched whenever a sufficient num¬ 
ber of travellers present themselves at the 
terminus. On the slope of the moun¬ 
tain above Vitznau are two very exten¬ 
sive caverns—the Waldisbalm,from 300 
to 400 yards deep, and another still more 
considerable called Stigelfattbalm. 

Vitznau is a small village with a 
good country Inn, now touched by all 
the lake steamers. The pedestrian may 
reach it by a rough but very pictu¬ 
resque patti leading along the lake by 
the promontory of the Obere Nase 
from Gersau, or a much easier path in 
the opposite direction from Waggis. 

Rigi Kulm. Whichever of the 
paths above described may have been 
preferred by the traveller, he will, if 
he keep to the beaten track, reach the 
highest grassy ridge of the mountain, 
or Rigi Kulm, by the track that 


mounts NE. from the Staffelhaus. In 
3 hr. he reaches two large buildings 
that stand some 60 or 70 ft. below the 
actual summit. The lower of the 
two is the old Hotel; the other, un¬ 
fortunately so lofty as to interfere 
somewhat with the view, is a new 
Hotel opened in 1856, and belongs to 
the same proprietor. Although they 
accommodate more than 200 visitors, 
they are often full. Making every 
allowance for the incessant pressure of 
a crowd of hungry tourists, the esta¬ 
blishment cannot be said to be well 
kept. Complaints on the score of 
want of cleanliness and foul smells are 
often heard, and it has been hinted 
that the sheets are not always dry. 
The food is tolerable ; the prices those 
of a first rate hotel. There is a taMe- 
d’hote supper about f of an hour 
after sunset, and most persons go 
to bed early with a view to early 
rising in the morning, the main object 
of the expedition being to see the 
sunrise from the summit. Like many 
other matters depending on the 
weather, this is a lottery in which 
there are a good many absolute 
blanks—days when the top of the 
mountain is enveloped in cloud or 
drizzling rain ; a good many prizes — 
when the view is seen to perfection : 
but a number larger than either when 
the spectacle is more or less imperfect. 
A little previous study of the map 
along with the engraved panoramas 
will much assist the traveller in re¬ 
cognising the almost countless peaks 
that are included within the range of 
view. Most persons make themselves 
tolerably familiar with the principal 
summits on the preceding evening. 
It would serve no purpose to enu¬ 
merate these here, and it may suffice 
to say that the view extends WSW. 
as far as the Dole, near Geneva, 120 
English miles distant, and in the 
opposite direction to some of the 
mountains above Bregenz on the Lake 
of Constance, fully 75 m. from the 
spectator. Of no less interest than 
the panoramic view are the singular 




168 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 26. FOREST CANTONS. 


phenomena occasionally visible at, or 
very soon after, sunrise. One. which 
is not very uncommon, occurs when 
the plain of Switzerland is covered 
with a sheet of vapour, while the 
chain of the Alps remains clear. The 
appearance of the sun sets the vast 
sea of cloud in motion. The masses 
gradually rise ; a current in the di¬ 
rection of the Alps sometimes sets 
in, and the clouds seem to break 
against the E. face of the moun¬ 
tain like billows on a rocky shore. 
The effect is more striking from the 
higher and steeper crags of the Pi- 
latus, provided it be viewed from some 
point that commands a clear view 
to the W. and NW. It is well known 
to mountain travellers that when 
shadows are thrown upon a neigh¬ 
bouring mass of cloud, each spectator 
sees his own shadow surrounded by a 
halo of coloured rings. This may 
often be seen on the Kigi. A rarer 
phenomenon occurs when, owing to 
some peculiar condition of the atmo¬ 
sphere, at the instant of sunrise a blue 
image of the summit of the mountain, 
with the outlines of the persons who 
stand on the ridge, is seen suspended 
in the air without the formation of any 
visible haze or cloud. It is sometimes 
said that the image in this case is 
magnified, but this, as the writer has 
assui'ed himself, is an illusion arising 
from the impression that the image is 
more distant than it really is. 

A wooden stage at the very top of 
the mountain enables those who ascend 
it to overlook the roof of the new 
Hotel. A horn is sounded in both 
hotels half an hour before sunrise, and 
no time is to be lost by those who 
would not miss the prize of their 
excursion. If not provided with 
ample covering, visitors are tempted to 
break through the printed regulation 
which forbids them to use the blankets 
as extra wraps. An early breakfast 
succeeds the sunrise spectacle, and in 
two or three hours the 200 or 300 
people who are generally congregated 


at the summit are scattered in various 
directions, often not to meet again. 

Route C. 

LUCERNE TO SCHWYZ AND BRUNNEN. 

Eng. 

mile* 

Kiissnacht (by road or steamer) 7£ 

Artli (by road) . . . . 5j 

Schwyz.9 

Brunnen.3* 

25 

The excursion from Lucerne to 
Schwyz is often taken in connexion 
with the tour of the lake, and it is easy 
to go by the route here described and 
return to Lucerne by the lake steamer, 
or vice versa. It may also be easily 
combined with the ascent of the Rig) 
described in the last Rte. 

A diligence conveys in 4 hrs. passen 
gers to Schwyz who prefer to travel ah 
the way by land. 

The road between Lucerne and Im 
mensee is briefly described in the last 
Rte. When the steamer on the L. of 
Zug happens to be available, most tra¬ 
vellers use that conveyance to Arth, 
unless they should have engaged a car¬ 
riage from Kiissnacht to Schwyz or 
Brunnen, in which case they follow the 
road by the lake-shore along the N. 
base of the Rigi. 

Arth (Inns : Adler, best, but foul 
smells ; H. du Rigi), 3^ m. from Irn- 
mensee, lies on the shore of the L. 
of Zug at the W. end of the valley 
of Goldau, formed by erosion from 
the conglomerate that constitutes the 
ridge of the Rigi to the S. and that 
of the Rossberg to the N. An om¬ 
nibus is in waiting to take passen¬ 
gers to 

Goldau (Inn: Rbssli, good), a dis¬ 
tance of H m. [Travellers going on 
foot from Immensee to Goldau may 
take a path which leaves Arth to the 
1., and rejoin the high road at the ham¬ 
let of Ober Arth, thus saving a few 
minutes.] 




ROUTE C. - FALL OF TITE ROSSBERG. 


169 


Goldau is chief!} 7 known for its con¬ 
nection with one of the most memorable 
geological catastrophes whose history 
has been accurately recorded. The 
German term berg fall has been applied 
in this work to cases, of which a few 
have been handed down in cotemporary 
records, and several others rest on tradi¬ 
tional evidence, where a considerable 
mass of mountain has fallen in a sudden 
and violent manner, as contradistin¬ 
guished from the more limited opera¬ 
tions to which the English term land¬ 
slip seems more appropriate. The 
name Rossberg or Rutiberg is applied, 
in the same way as that of Rigi, to a 
mountain tract rather than a single 
defined mountain. It includes the 
whole tract of high land lying between 
the Lakes of Zug and Egeri, whose 
highest summit is the Wildspitz (5,190'), 
and is bounded on the S. by the valley 
of Goldau. Its geological structure 
resembles that of the Rigi, the upper 
part being mainly formed of thick 
beds of miocene conglomerate, called 
nagelflue, overlying strata of softer 
and less coherent materials. In the 
part bordering on the Goldauerthal 
the strata dip to the S. at an angle of 
25° with the horizon. Local records 
speak of several slighter landslips which 
had occurred on the slopes to the N. of 
Goldau, but the catastrophe that has 
acquired a melancholy celebrity oc¬ 
curred on Sept. 2, 1806, and a de¬ 
scription by an intelligent eyewitness, 
Dr. Zay of Arth, was published soon 
after the event. 

An extraordinary fall of snow in 
winter, followed bv a wet summer, 
seems to have softened the inferior 
strata, whereupon fissures formed in 
the overlying nagelflue, and the con¬ 
ditions being thus prepared, the symp¬ 
toms of the approaching event soon 
became evident. During several hours 
the warnings were continued by the 
falling or sliding down of blocks of 
stone, the utterance of mysterious 
sounds that seemed to issue from the 
interior of the mountain, a manifest 
disturbance of the trees that clothed its 


slopes, and finally by the flight of birds 
that sought a refuge on the opposite 
ridge of the Rigi. A number of the 
inhabitants of the valley sought safety 
in flight, but a larger number remained 
until a crash, like the voice of doom, 
announced the moment at which a huge 
mass of the mountain was loosened 
from its foundations, and fell, shattered 
into fragments, over the devoted valley. 
Huge blocks of stone were hurled 
through the air, reaching across the 
wide valley to the lower slopes of the 
Rigi, and in a few minutes a large tract 
of populous and fruitful country was 
covered with a mass of ruin. The 
village of Goldau and three neighbour¬ 
ing hamlets were covered with con¬ 
fused piles of rock and earth from 100 
to 200 ft. in thickness, under which 
they still remain buried. Of the inha¬ 
bitants 433 lost their lives, as well as 
24 strangers, and those who survived 
the day were left utterly destitute. Ac¬ 
cording to a rough estimate, the portion 
of the mountain that fell measured a 
league in length, 1,000 ft. in breadth, 
and 100 ft. in thickness. The west end 
of the L. of Lowerz was filled up by 
the bergfall, and several smaller pools 
have been formed amidst the irregular 
masses of debris that cover the valley. 
For a long time the aspect of the site 
remained barren and ruinous, but in 
the course of half a century verdure 
gradually spread over the bare surface, 
trees sprung up in the crevices, and it 
is interesting to the geologist to re¬ 
mark how nearly the present appearance 
approaches to that of many spots in the 
Alps where we have reason to believe 
that similar events occurred at some 
more or less remote period. The road 
to Schwyz lies for some distance amidst 
and across the remains of the bergfall, 
and the present village of Goldau stands 
on the site of, and immediately over, 
the destroyed village. In about 3 hrs. 
from Goldau a pedestrian may reach 
the part of the mountain which was 
left exposed by the fall of the over- 
lying mass. 

Lowerz (Inn: Adler), at the W. end 



ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 26. FOREST CANTONS. 


170 

of a small lake bearing the same name, 
was partly desti’oyed by the fall of the 
Rossberg, and the waves raised by the 
masses of rock that fell into the water 
broke over the island of Schwanau, and 
swept away several houses at the oppo¬ 
site end of the lake, 3 m. distant. The 
castle of Schwanau, standing on the 
larger of the two islands in the lake, was 
destroyed in the first rising of the Swiss 
confederates in 1308. 

About 3 m. beyond Lowerz is the 
village of Seewen (Inns: Kreuz; 
Rossli; Stern), lying in a depression 
between the Urmiberg, which forms 
the E. extremity of the Rigi range, and 
the base of the Mythen. The village 
gives its name to the Seewen limestone, 
which is geologically an equivalent 
of the English flint-chalk. The chaly¬ 
beate springs attract hither a certain 
number of invalids, who usually lodge 
en pension at either of the two last- 
named inns, paying 4^ fr. a day. By 
the road the distance is 2 m., or rather 
less^by foot-jgath, to 

Schwyz (H. Hediger; Rossli; both 
good and reasonable, but old-fashioned; 
Hirsch), the chief town of that little 
canton which, owing to the leading 
part taken by its people in the first 
struggle for independence, had the 
honour of giving its name to Switzer¬ 
land. Though tourists generally pass 
through it without a halt, it is an in¬ 
teresting place, and preserves in its 
general aspect, and in the style of its 
buildings, an air of old-world simpli¬ 
city that is scarcely to be seen else¬ 
where in Switzerland. The town lies 
1,686 ft. above the sea at the base of 
the Mythen. The parish church is 
Italian in character from the quantity 
of marble with which it is decorated, 
and the numerous pictures and statues, 
due to artists from the Canton Tessin. 
In the adjoining cemetery is a monu¬ 
ment to Aloys Reding, who headed his 
countrymen in their desperate resist¬ 
ance to the French invasion in 1798. 
The Council Hall in the Rathhaus, 
with the portraits of forty-three chiefs 
of the republic (landammanner), and a 


tower containing the archives, which 
date from the origin of the Swiss Con¬ 
federation, deserve notice. 

The mountaineer should not fail to 
make the ascent of the Mythen. The 
mountain so called consists of two 
sharp rocky peaks divided by a deep 
cleft, whence the appropriate name 
Mitre. The higher, or Grosse My¬ 
then, is 6,244 ft, the lower, or Kleine 
Mythen, 5,955 ft. in height. The 
Grosse Mythen may be ascended in 
3 hrs. From Holzeggto the top, where 
there is a little inn, a good new path 
makes a guide needless. The mountain 
is a prolongation of the range of the Vitz- 
nauerstock, Hochfluh, and Urmiberg, 
being composed mainly of newer se¬ 
condary rocks, especially Seewen lime¬ 
stone. Towards the summit this en¬ 
closes in its folds a mass of nummulitic 
limestone, whose limits are sharply 
defined. 

The road to Brunnen (Rte. A), tra¬ 
versed by omnibuses in connection 
with the steamers on the L. of Lu¬ 
cerne, lies through a rich tract con¬ 
taining many scattered hamlets and 
solitary farm-houses. If history did 
not serve as a lesson and a warning to 
posterity, it would be well to draw a 
veil over the events of 1798—when 
the armies of France, entering the 
territory of their unoffending neigh¬ 
bours with the name of liberty on their 
banners, stifled in blood the ancient 
independence of Switzerland—and the 
still more tragical vicissitudes of the 
following year, when the soldiers of 
France, Austria, and Russia devas¬ 
tated in turn with fire and sword the 
valleys where for 500 years the native 
herdsman had not seen the presence of 
an enemy. It is asserted that at the 
end of the century one fourth of the 
surviving inhabitants of the Canton 
Schwyz were reduced to beggary. 

[Pedestrians going from Arth to 
Schwyz, who wish without much delay 
to see more of the remains of the fall 
of the Rossberg than is visible from 
the carriage-road, may take a path 
from Ober Arth to the hamlet of 




ROUTE D. 


MORGARTEN. 


171 


Steinerberg , which traverses the lower 
slopes of the mountain right across the 
track of the bergfall ; they may then 
descend to Steinen on the road from 
Rothenthurm to Schwyz (Rte. D). 
Travellers from Arth to Brunnen who 
are pressed for time, or do not care to 
see Schwyz, may save more than a 
mile by following a cross-road from 
Seewen to the hamlet of Ibach, lying 
on the main road from Schwyz to 
Brunnen.] 


Route D. 

SCHWYZ TO RICHTERSCHWYL, BY 
ROTHENTHURM. 


Steinen 

Post 

stunden 

• H 

Eng. 

miles 

H 

Rothenthurm . 

• H 

4A 

Biberbruck 

. H 

4| 

Richterschwyl. 

‘ 1? 

41 





This route between Schwyz and the 
L. of Zurich is not in itself interest¬ 
ing, but is often taken by those who 
wish to visit in the same day Mor- 
garten and Einsiedlen, both of which 
lie near to the post-road. A diligence 
plies twice daily between Richter- 
schwyl and Schwyz, and also between 
Richterschwyl and Einsiedlen. 

Leaving Seewen on the 1. the road 
is carried along the base of the hills 
from Schwyz to Steinen (Inn : Rossli), 
the birthplace of Werner Stauffacher: 
A chapel with rude frescoes marks the 
site of his house. [Here a pedestrian 
may turn to the W. and reach Arth, 
as mentioned in the last Rte., by a 
path that crosses the lower slopes of 
the Rossberg, a walk of about 2 hrs.] 
The high road, commanding fine views 
over the valley of Goldau, mounts 
along the stream called Steiner A a to 
the chapel of Ecce Homo, and thence 
to the village of Sattel. Here a road, 
passable for chars, turns to 1. and 
leads along the NE. side of the Lake 
of Egeri to Zug, a distance of about 


11 m. This passes over the battle¬ 
field of Morgarten, the earliest of the 
struggles in which the Swiss moun¬ 
taineers overcame the best troops of 
Europe. When Leopold of Austria 
advanced in 1315 with a powerful 
army, said to number 20,000 men be¬ 
tween knights and men-at-arms, to 
punish the Swiss for having destroyed 
the Austrian strongholds, and driven 
out the bailiffs whose oppression had 
become intolerable, the Swiss leaders, 
warned, as tradition asserts, by a mes¬ 
sage fixed to an arrow shot out from 
the Austrian lines, occupied with their 
small force of 1,300 men the heights of 
Morgarten at the S. end of the L. of 
Egeri. The enemy advanced along 
the flat ground between the hills and 
the shore, when the Swiss, after throw¬ 
ing the enemy’s army into confusion 
by a discharge of rocks from above, 
completed the disorder by a furious 
charge, and drove them in disgrace 
from the field with prodigious slaugh¬ 
ter. A chapel dedicated to St. James, 
and another at the village of Hasel- 
matt, commemorate this Marathon of 
Swiss history. The road to Zug by 
the villages of Ober Egeri and Unter 
Egeri is not very interesting. Instead 
of returning to the post-road at Sattel, 
a pedestrian may take a path across 
the hills from the village of Haselmatt 
and rejoin the road to Richterschwyl 
at Altmatt, nearly as soon as if he had 
kept to the main road from Schwyz. 

From Sattel the post-road mounts 
along the SE. side of the hill of Mor¬ 
garten. Here, under their landamman 
Aloys Reding, the descendants of the 
victors of Morgarten encountered in 
1798 the invading French army under 
General Schauenbourg nearly on the 
same ground where their fathers fought 
the Austrians. Swiss valour again 
prevailed, and the enemy was twice 
driven back ; but the loss of the small 
band of patriots was so heavy that 
they were unable to renew the fight 
against the overwhelming forces 
brought against them. 

Rothenthurm (Inn : Lowe, ‘ dirty and 



172 


ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. 


§26. FOREST CANTONS. 


extortionate,’ [M.]) stands on high 
ground near the head of an affluent of 
the Sihl called the Biber. The road 
keeps to the rt. bank across a marshy 
tract passing Altmatt, where the foot¬ 
path from the banks of the L. of Egeri 
rejoins the post-road. About 1^ m. 
farther, at Biberbruck, the road crosses 
to the 1. bank and joins the car¬ 
riage-road from Einsiedlen (Rte. E), 
3^ m. distant. About 1^ m. from 
Biberbruck is Schiudellegi (2,4S4'), 
where the road crosses the Sihl. Here 
the men and women of Schwyz suc¬ 
cessfully resisted the fh’st advance of 
the French army in May 1798. The 
way frorp. hence to the L. of Zurich 
lies almost altogether down hill: the 
road commands some pleasing views 
over the lake, but is not so interesting 
as that by the Etzel descr bed in the 
next Rte. 

Richterschwyl (Inns : Drei Konige, 
was the best; Engel) is a large village 
on the Lake of Zurich visited many 
times daily by the lake steamers. At 
a place called Iliitten, 1| hr. above the 
village, is a frequented establishment 
for the goat’s-whey cure, or Molkenkur. 


Route E. 

SCHWYZ TO RAPPERSCHWYL, BY 
EINSIEDLEN. 

Si hrs.’ walk. 

As remarked in the last Rte., those 
who wish to reach Einsiedlen in a 
carriage from Schwyz should follow 
the road there described as far as 
Biberbruck (12f m.), and then turn to 
the rt. by a road that mounts the valley 
of the Alpbach to Einsiedlen, distant 
3^- m. A pedestrian approaching Ein¬ 
siedlen from that side may save about 
2 m. by following a rough path over 
the Katzenstrick leading due E from 
Altmatt to the monastery in 1 hr. 

The most direct and agreeable way 
from Schwyz to Einsiedlen is by the 
Hacken Pass, a walk of 4£ hrs., or 


4 hrs. when taken in the opposite direc¬ 
tion. A rather steep track passing 
the hamlet of Oberdorf leads in about 
2j hrs. from Schwyz to the summit of 
the Hacken (4,570'). The view is fine, 
but it is worth whjle to ascend an 
eminence N. of the pass called Hoch- 
stiiekli (5,105'), easily reached in 25 
min., for the sake of the wider pano¬ 
rama which it commands. The de¬ 
scent on the N. side of the pass, where 
there is a rough Inn, is pretty rapid, 
until in 1 hr. the path reaches the 
village of Alpthal , on the 1. bank of the 
Alpbach. About f hr. lower down is 
an ancient Benedictine convent called 
In der Au, and ^ hr. further the cele¬ 
brated monastery of 

Einsiedlen, long one of the wealthiest, 
as it still continues to be the most 
frequented place of pilgrimage in cen¬ 
tral Europe. The pile of building 
forming the monastery, with the church 
in the centre, stands upon high ground 
about 3,000 ft above the sea. It is 
said that the average annual number 
of pilgrims to this famous sanctuary 
approaches to or exceeds 150,000. 
The greatest concourse is on and 
about the 14th September, when it 
becomes difficult to obtain lodging. 
The church was plundered of its trea¬ 
sures by the French in 1798; it con¬ 
tains several pictures, statues, and 
bronzes, but none of much artistic 
value. The monastery now contain' 
60 Benedictine monks. The library 
contains 32,000 volumes, with some 
valuable specimens of early printing, 
and many MSS., one of which, a 
unique copy, is a description of Rome 
in the tenth century by a monk of the 
monastery. There is a museum of 
natural history, a printing press, a free 
school, and various other buildings 
appertaining to the institution. 

The village immediately adjoining 
the monastery is chiefly composed of 
houses of entertainment for visitors of 
all classes; of these there are nearly 
80, the two best being the Pfau and 
Einsiedlen Hof, the latter new. 

A rough char-road, more interesting 




ROUTE F. 


VALLEY OF ENGELBERG. 


173 


than that by Schindellegi, leads nearly I 
due N. from Einsiedlen to the L. of 
Zurich. At a distance of 1 hr. is the 
so-called Teufelsbriicke over the Sihl, 
where a house still standing is pointed 
out as the birthplace of Theophrastus 
Paracelsus. A steep road now mounts 
the ridge of the Etzel, to an Inn lying 
on the nearly level space forming the 
summit. This is 3,150 ft. above the 
sea,and commands a considerable view, 
which may be much improved by a 
detour to the point called Schoneboden 
(3,523'), ^ hr. E. of the Inn. The road 
lown to the lake is steep and rough; 
several hamlets are passed; but Pjaf- 
Jikoti remains to the 1. Crossing the 
high road that is carried along the W. 
shore, the traveller may at once reach 
the long bridge across the narrow and 
shallow part of the lake that conducts 
him in 4 hrs. from Einsiedlen to 

Rapperschwyl (Inns : Schwar, good 
and reasonable; Poste, facing the 
lake, not recommended; H. du Lac, 
not clean ; Freihof, in the town), a 
small town more fully noticed in § 27, 
Rte. A. The road over the Etzel is 
inconveniently steep and rough, and 
the passage of the bridge of Kapper- 
schwyl (being unguarded even by a 
hand-rail) is trying to nervous persons, 
so that this route is better fitted fur 
pedestrians than for those who require 
a vehicle. 

[There is a circuitous way from 
Schwyz to Einsiedlen by a path lead¬ 
ing E. from the town across a marshy 
plateau on the E. side of the Mythen 
to the head of one of the sources of 
the Sihl, called the Thalbach. The 
flvsch deposit is here developed on a 
large scale. The highest village is 
Ibery, and a path leads thence to 
Einsiedlen chiefly by the 1. bank of 
the Sihl.] 


Route F. 

STANZSTAD TO ALTBORF, BY EV- 

GELBERG AND THE SURENEN PASS. 

4| hrs.* walk to Engelberg; 7| hrs.’ thence to 
Altdorf. 

This is an easy and interesting expe¬ 
dition, practicable for ladies who can 
ride, as there is a carriage-road as far 
as Engelberg, and a safe bridle-track 
between that place and Altdorf: for 
practised mountaineers a guide is 
unnecessary in fine weather. The 
excursion is often made from Lucerne 
by those who intend returning thither 
by the lake steamer, or vice versa. 
When the Surenen Pass is taken 
from Altdorf, which lies much lower 
than Engelberg, 8 hrs. exclusive of 
halts should be allowed between those 
places. The charge for a one-horse 
carriage from Stanzstad to Engelberg 
is 12 fr.; with two horses, 20 fr. The 
road is ill kept, and the fault is attri¬ 
buted to the monks of Engelberg, who 
are said to be the chief proprietors in 
the valley. 

The Engelberger Aa is the copious 
torrent that drains the N. side of the 
Titlis range, and the S. side of the 
nearly equally lofty range extending 
from the Blackenstock to the Wallen- 
stocke. After flowing to the W. 
parallel to those ranges as far as 
Engelberg, it turns abruptly to the rt. 
and descends due N. about 1,850 ft. to 
the L. of Lucerne. Its detritus has 
probably been the chief cause of the 
formation of the alluvial plain (whereon 
stands the town of Stanz) that stretches 
from Stanzstad to Buochs along the 
S. side of the Biirgenstein. 

The traveller arriving either by the 
lake steamer or by land may engage a 
vehicle for Engelberg at the Hotel 
zum Winkelried at Stanzstad, or may 
travel by omnibus the distance of two 
miles from that village to Stanz (Inns: 
Krone, good; Engel) (see § 25, Rte. 
B), where carriages are easily found. 
It is a good plan to take a light carriage 
(hire. 6 fr.) to Grafenort, 7| m., and 





174 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 26. FOREST CANTONS. 


walk the remainder of the way to 
Engelberg. 

On leaving Stanz the road at once 
enters the valley of Engelberg which 
is open and tolerably level as far as 

Wolfenschiessen , where the church 
porch contains paintings illustrating 
the life of the hermit Conrad 
Scheuber — son-in-law of Nicholas 
von der Flue—whose bones are here 
preserved. To the 1. mounts the path 
to Isentbal described in Rte. G. The 
main valley gradually narrows and 
assumes a more alpine character, and 
the road mounts along the 1. bank of 
the Aa, passing opposite to a pretry 
waterfall of the Fallenbach. At 3 m. 
from Wolfenschiessen, and 7% m. from 
Stanz, it reaches 

Grafenort, a hamlet with a chapel 
and a small Inn. Here the ascent 
becomes steeper, and the scenery 
grander. The torrent rushes through 
a deep ravine on the rt. and as the 
traveller advances the snowy summits 
of the Titlis and other neighbouring 
peaks come into view. Rough benches, 
partly roofed for shelter in bad weather, 
are placed at intervals by the road-side. 
After passing by a hamlet called 
Schwand, the road descends a little to 
Ei span , where the tracks leading from 
the Storegg and Juchli Passes (§ 25, 
Rte. C.) join the road which here 
turns eastward, and in 1 m. reaches 

Enyelbery (Inns: H. Titlis, good, rea¬ 
sonable ; Sonnenberg, new; H. Muller, 
smaller, also good ; H. Engelberg), a 
vdlage beautifully situated at 3,343 
ft. above the sea, at the N. base of the 
Titlis. Many persons resort to the 
Hotels here in summer, and remain en 
pension on very moderate terms The 
paths from the Storegg and Juchli 
Passes, and that from the Engelberger 
Joch (§ 25, Rtes. C and D), meet here. 
The ascent o the Titlis may be made 
from hence, but far more conveniently 
from the inn on the Eng-,tlen Alp on 
the S. side of the last-named pass. 
Among shorter excursions, that to the 
Ende der Welt at the head of the 
Horbis Thai, reached in 1^ hr. from ! 


the village, is especially recommended. 
It is a cirque, or amphitheatre, enclosed 
by snowy summits that average 9,000 ft. 
in height. The Rothstock Glacier 
descends into the head of the valley 
between the Engelberger Rothstock 
and the Weissberg (see next Rte.). 
Those who do not cross the Surenen 
Pass should walk or ride as far as the 
Tiitschbach waterfall, f hr. from En¬ 
gelberg, and may well extend the ex¬ 
cursion \ hr. farther to the chalets of 
Herrenriiti (see below). With a good 
guide, a mountaineer may ascend the 
Uri Rothstock from this side, and 
descend to Isenthal (Rte. G). 

The famous Abbey of Engelberg 
was founded in 1121 on a spot which, 
according to the legend, was pointed 
out by angelic voices; whence the 
name Mons Angelorum. The abbots 
were lords of the valley, and the 
monks are still the chief proprietors, 
carrying on a large business in cheese 
and cattle. The monastery has been 
three times destroyed by fire, and the 
present building dates from the last 
century. The library was despoiled 
of its chief treasures by the French, 
but still contains some curious early 
books, &c. The church contains some 
tolerably good paintings. There is a 
school or college taught by the monks, 
and a vast magazine for cheeses which 
deserves a visit. 

The bridle-track leading to Altdorf 
mounts somewhat S. of E. from the 
village by the rt. bank of the torrent, 
and in J hr passes below the fine 
cascade of the Tiitschbach, which lies 
a short way to the 1. and deserves a 
slight detour. In less than ^ hr. the 
track reaches the considerable chalets 
of Herrenriiti belonging to the monks 
of Engelberg, where travellers provided 
with fresh bread may breakfast on ex¬ 
cellent butter, cheese, and milk. Here 
the Grassen Glacier is seen to SE., 
and on the rt. hand is left the track 
leading to the Grassen Pass (§ 25, Rte. 
E), lying between the Titlis and the 
Spannorter. [Two passes from Her- 
i renriiti to the Valley of the Reuss 



KOUTE G. 


STANZ TO ISENTHAL. 


<D 


through the Erstfelderthal are now 
known. ' 1 'he easier, which may be 
called the Erstfeldjoch (8,635' ?), be¬ 
tween the Schlosske/g (10,280') and the 
double peak of the Spannorter, was 
traversed by Mr. Sowerby with A. 
Zgraggen, who with the same guide 
climbed the Gross Spanndrtin 1867. The 
Si^a/mo? ter Joch (9,823' F.W.T.), lying 
between the Gross Spannort (10,515'), 
and Klein Spannort (10,332'), was first 
achieved by Mr. Jacomb in 1864.] A 
short way above Herrenriiti, the tra¬ 
veller passes the boundary between the 
Cantons Unterwaldeu and Uri; the 
scenes continues to improve through¬ 
out the ascent of 1 ^ hr. to the chalets 
of the Blacken Alp (5,833') Here the 
Blackenstock (9,685') becomes the most 
prominent object in view. Although 
higher by 65 ft. than the Uri Rothstock, 
it is apparently less well placed for a 
panoramic view. 

The track now crosses one branch 
of the Aar torrent, and mounts along 
the S. side of the Blackenstock to the 
Surenen Pass, also called Surenen Egg, 
7,562 ft. above the sea, reached in 4 hrs. 
from Engelberg The top is a narrow 
ridge, tolerably steep on either side. 
The view of the Titlis, and that in* 
the opposite direction, extending to 
the Gliirnisch, are both remarkable, 
and will reward those who, without 
intending to descend to Altdorf, make 
the excursion from Engelberg to the 
pass. The descent on the E. side 
is much steeper than the ascent; 
there are usually some considerable 
patches of snow, and when this is soft 
and deep it adds considerably to the 
time required in ascending from 
Altdorf, and may make the passage 
difficult for mules. Below the snow- 
slopes the track descends in 1 hr. by 
zigzags amidst rocks and debris to 
the Waldnacht Alp. The torrent 
called Waldnachtbach precipitates 
itself a little lower down into a fear¬ 
fully steep and narrow gorge called 
Bockischlund , along which the track is 
carried till after crossing a wooden 
bridge it descends across meadows to 


Riibshausen , a place interesting to 
geologists on account of the junction 
of the oolite limestone with the 
gneiss, reached in 2 ^ hrs. from the 
pass. Here a traveller bound for the 
St. Gothard may turn to the rt. to 
Erstfelden and reach Amsteg in 
2 hrs. The way to Altdorf is by 
Attinghausen, the birthplace of Walter 
Fiirst. His house is still pointed out, 
standing between the ruins of two 
feudal castles. Crossing the bridge 
over the Reuss, the traveller reaches 
Altdorf (Rte. A) in £ hr. There is a 
rather shorter, but rougher and steeper 
path, practicable for pedestrians only 
from the Waldnacht Alp to Atting¬ 
hausen. It is that indicated by a red 
line in the map annexed to Berlepsch's 
Schweizer Fiihrer , but it is not re¬ 
commended to travellers, as they gain 
little time, and lose the views of the 
remarkable gorge of the Bockischlund 
In 1799 a division of the French 
army under Lecourbe crossed this 
pass from Stanz to attack the Austrians 
in the valley of the Reuss, but en¬ 
countering the superior forces of Su- 
warof, they were forced to return b# 
the same difficult route. 


Route G. 

STANZ TO ALTDORF BY ISENTHAL. 

About hrs., exclusive of halts. 

This is a very interesting way, and 
fit for a moderate walker. The Inn at 
Isenthal offers good head-quarters for 
excursions to the neighbouring peaks. 
The path from Wolfenschiessen to 
Isenthal being very little used, it is 
prudent to take a guide. 

Quitting the road to Engelberg at 
Wolfenschiessen, 1.5 hr. from Stanz, 
the traveller follows a track that 
mounts along the NE. side of a glen 
descending from SE. to join the valley 
or Engelberg. An ascent of 3^ hrs., 
passing on the way the hamlet of 




176 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 26. FOREST CANTONS. 


Ober Rikenbach, leads to the Schonegg 
Pass (6,652'), a depression between the 
Ifoch Brisen (7.895') to tbe N. and 
the Kaiserstuhl (7,674'). On the E 
side of the pass the track follows the 
longer and more important of the two 
glens that unite at the village of 
Isenthal( about 2,700'),commonly called 
Gross Isenthal, which is reached in 2 
hrs. The chief inn (Adler) is clean 
and not bad, but the landlord has been 
accused of tricks and extortion ; other 
travellers give more favourable reports. 
A second small inn is called Rebstock. 
Crispin Innfanger is recommended as 
guide. The most interesting excursion 
from Isenthal is the ascent of the Uri 
Rothstock (9,620'). 

The easiest way is by the Gross 
Thai, the S. branch of which leads by j 
the Hangbaum Alp to the Blumlisalp- 
firn, a field of neve lying W. of the 
summit, which is easily accessible from 
that side. The other and more diffi¬ 
cult way lies through the Klein 
Isenthal. Mr. R. W. E. Forster has 
given an account of the ascent of the 
mountain by that way, with the 
descent to Engelberg, in the Second 
Series of‘ Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers.’ 
Above the highest chalets in the Klein 
Thai it is necessary to climb a steep 
slope of shaly limestone; this leads up 
to the extensive fields of neve that lie 
to the E. of the Uri Rothstock ex¬ 
tending to the Blackenstock, Geis- 
hornli, and the Giitsch. The snow is 
reached in about 3^ hrs. from Isenthal. 
It is necessary to make a wide circuit 
to the E., approaching near to the 
Geishornli, and gradually bending to 
the rt. till the peak of the Rothstock 
is finally approached from the S. 
where it presents no difficulty, while 
the N. and E. side are impracticably 
steep. Starting at 2.10 a.m., Mr. 
Forster reached the summit at 8 a.m. 
The panorama is very fine but not 
equal to that from the Titlis. The 
great field of neve between the Uri 
Rothstock and the lower peak to the 
westward, called Engelberger Roth¬ 
stock (3,251'), is called Blumlisfirn ; it 


feeds the Rothstock Glacier (also called 
Griessen Gl.), which descends into 
the head of the Horbis Thai, and by 
that way Engelberg is reached in 5 hrs. 
from the summit. It may also be reached 
in 8 hrs. from Isenthal by the Roth- 
griitli, a pass lying W. of the Engelberger 
Rothstock. On the S. side the traveller 
keeps the Rothstock Gl. on his 1. hand 
and descends to the Blacken Alp. 

To reach Altdorf from Isenthal is 
a walk of 2^ hrs. The course is to 
descend to a small group of houses 
near the shore of the L. of Lucerne, 
called Isclten, and then to follow a 
narrow and rough path along the 
declivity of the Schartiberg , which 
leads to the village of Seedorf, close to 
tbe head of the lake and opposite 
Flueleu. A char-road leads thence 
to a bridge over the Reuss, and then 
to Altdorf (Rte. A), which is 2 m 
from Seedorf. 


Route H. 

STANZ TO ALTDORF, BY BECK.ENBIED 
AND I HE SONNENBERG. 

6 miles by carriage-road to Beckenried; hrs. 
walk thence to Altdorf. 

There is a good and frequented road 
from Stanz to Beckenried. As the 
steamers that ply between Lucerne 
and Stanzstad do not communicate 
directly with those plying between 
the same city and Fiuelen, many 
passengers approaching the lake by 
the road of the Briinig, and wishing to 
reach any of the ports of call between 
Lucerne and Fiuelen, find it a better 
plan to go from Stanz to Beckenried 
rather than to Stanzstad. See § 25, 
Rte. B. 

The road from Stanz crosses the 
Engelberger A a, and reaches the 
shore of the lake at Enochs (Inns: 
llossli; Schliissel), a pretty village, 
rebuilt since 1798, when it was burnt 
to the ground by the French. Imme* 






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.rasse 


S*>W 

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fcoctiber’j 


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Tie fin Gl 
G alerLstock 


THE ALPS 

from tlie Grimse 

TO THE BAY OF URI 


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177 


ROUTE I.-SCHACHENTHAL. 


ftiately to the S. rises the Buoc/iser/iorn 
(5,936'), the summit of which may be 
gained in 3 to 3^ hrs. from hence or 
from Stanz. The view from the 
Stanzerhorn is said to be preferable. 
A delightful road along the lake-shore 
leads from Buochs to 

Beckenried (Inns: Sonne; Mond; 
both good). The beautiful path from 
Beckenried to the Sonnenberg is 
passable for horses as well as foot- 
travellers, and may be recommended 
as one of the most charming in this 
picturesque region. At l hr. from 
Beckenried is Kmmatten , whose houses 
are scattered amidst the park-like 
grassy slopes that overlook the lake. 
At Schbnegg, a little below the village, 
is a comfortable and well-kept pension, 
commanding a beautiful view. The 
path beyond Emmatten winds round 
the N. base of the Nieder Bauen, or 
Seelisberger Kuhn. Passing near the 
uttle lake or pool called Seelisberger 
S-e, the traveller in 2^ his. from Beck¬ 
enried reaches the Sonnenberg , so called 
from an ancient chapel (Maria Sonnen¬ 
berg). Here two large houses in a beau¬ 
tiful position receive travellers, either 
at hotel prices or en pension , and are 
deservedly reckoned among the most 
agreeable stopping-places in Switzer¬ 
land. The accommodation and food 
are good, but in summer it is not easy 
to find room. The site is about 1,300 
ft. above the lake, and immediately over¬ 
looks the Bay of Uri. 

The Sonnenberg lies immediately 
above the village of Sedisberg, with a 
clean pension kept by Hauser. It is 
most commonly approached from 
Treib, a hamlet near the point of the 
promontory opposite Brunnen, and 
usually reached by boat from that 
place. The ascent from Treib to the 
Hotel is made in 1 hr. The charge 
for a horse is 6 fr. (too high), and the 
same for a chaise-a-porteur. Porters 
carrying luggage ask from 2 to 3 
fr , according to the weight. Sonnen¬ 
berg may be reached from the Griitli 
(Rte. A) in about £ hr. by a very 
steep path, not recommended to ladies. 

PART II. 


A very beautiful path overlooking the 
Bay of Uri leads from Sonnenberg in 
rather more than 1 hr. to Bauen, the 
solitary village on the W. shore of 
that branch of the lake. From thence 
to Altdorf, nearly 3 hrs.’ walk, the way 
lies by Iselten and Seedorf, noticed in 
the last Rte. 

Route I. 

ALTDORF TO STACHELBERG, BY THE 
KLAU8EN PASS. 



Hrs.’ 

Eds’. 


walking 

miles 

Unterschachen 

OS. 

• *4 

s 

Klau«en Pass 

• 2f 

64 

Stachelberg 

. H 

104 


10 

25 


This is rather a long walk for ave¬ 
rage tourists, especially if taken from 
Altdorf, when it involves an ascent of 
about 5,000 ft. The scenery is in 
places very interesting, and the way 
easily found in fine weather. Guides 
expect 10 fr., and the charge for a 
horse is 30 fr., besides a small trinkgeld 
to the boy who takes charge of it. 

About 1 m. from Altdorf, at the open¬ 
ing of the Schdchenthal, and on the 1. 
bank of the Schachen torrent, is 

Biirglen, the birthplace and home of 
William Tell. A neat country inn 
(zum Wilhelm Tell) stands on the 
supposed site of his house, and close at 
hand is a chapel erected in commemo¬ 
ration of the popular hero. About a 
mile beyond the village the patli 
crosses to the rt. bank, and ascends 
gradually along the stream to Spirin- 
gen (nearly 5 m. from Altdorf), where 
there is a rough but tolerable country 
inn. Before reaching the village, the 
path to the Kinzig Kulm (Rte. L) 
turns off to the 1. The stature and 
powerful frames of the men of this 
and the neighbouring valleys of Un 
seem to show that, at least as to phy¬ 
sical qualities, the race has not degene¬ 
rated since the days of Tell and Fiirsr. 
Rather more than 3 m. above Spiringen 
is the highest village of the Scbachen- 
thal, called Unter Shachen (3,347'). 


N 






178 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 26. FOREST CANTONS. 


with a new, clean-looking inn. From 
a slight eminence crossed before reach¬ 
ing the village, there is a fine view of 
the head of the valley, and of the 
Olariden Alps, whose highest summits 
are the Scheerhorn (11,142'), and the 
Claridenstock (10,709'). Through the 
Brunnithal. opening close to the village, 
a copious torrent flows from the Grosse 
Windgelle. and the Gross Ruchi. Am- 
fiteg may be reached by the Seweli 
Joch (7,421'), and the Maderanerthal 
by the Kriikeli (8,760'). See § 27, 
Rte. B. 

For about 2 m. beyond the village 
the path keeps to the rt. bank, beginning 
to ascend more steeply through a pine 
forest. Near the Chapel of St. Anna 
a bergfall occurred in 1833 which 
barred the valley and formed a little 
lake; the traces have now almost dis¬ 
appeared. About 1 hr. 20 min. are 
required to ascend from Unter Schii- 
chen to the JEsch Alp, where there is a 
little chalet Inn. Near at hand to the 
rt. the pretty waterfall of the Staiibi- 
bach is fed by a torrent descending 
from the Gries Glacier, lying on the 
N. side of the Scheerhorn. The path 
which had hitherto kept a direction 
rather S. of E. now turns NE. for a 
short distance, and the general direc¬ 
tion is henceforward N. of E. It 
mounts by zigzags towards the barrier 
of rock called Balmwand, that seems 1 
to close the head of the valley. To the 
rt. is a gorge through which avalanches 
descend in the spring, and a little 
farther on a large cave. Hereabouts 
the botanist may find several rare 
plants, and amongst them Delphinium 
montanum. 

The ascent of the Balmwand is free 
from difficulty, but ladies do well to 
descend on foot. There is a shorter 
and steeper path bv the N. side of the 
Schiichen torrent; it is but little used. 
At the summit the traveller attains to 
the gentle slopes that lead to the Klau- 
scn Pass (6,437'), reached in 1^- hr. 
from the A£sch Alp, or rather more 
than 6 hrs. from Altdorf. There is 
little to be seen from the path, as the 


summit forms a nearly level plateau *, 
but a slight eminence N. of the little 
oratory that marks the actual summit 
commands a fine view of the Scheer¬ 
horn, Gross Ruchi, and other summits 
of the Clariden Alps. A rather rapid 
descent leads from the summit to the 
very extensive pastures and chalets of 
Urnerboden, which extend nearly at a 
level for a distance of 4 or 5 m. along 
the head of the valley of the Fatsch- 
hach. Near the chapel, at a spot called 
Spitelriiti, is a small inn, reached in 
rather more than 1 hr. from the pass. 
From hence the Scheer Joch, between 
the Kammlistock and Scheerhorn 
(§ 27, Rte. B), is reached in 5 hrs. 
The Urnerboden, as its name denotes, 
belongs to the Ganton Uri, and the 
boundary of Glarus is where the 
steeper descent towards the Linth Thai 
marks the limit of the Alp. The path 
passes near a fine fall of the Fatsch- 
bach, often visited as an excursion 
from Stachelberg, and reaches the 
valley ^ hr. above the good hotel at 
Stachelberg in about 4 hrs. from the 
summit. The Linth Thai is described 
in § 27, Rte. A. 

Route K. 

SCHWYZ TO GLARUS, BY THE PRAGE1 
PASS—ASCENT OF THE GLaUNISCH. 



Hrs.’ 

Eng. 


walking 

miles 

Muotta 

• 2 t 

H 

Pragel Pass . 

. 3 

s 

Vorauen . 

• 2| 

7 

Glarus . 

• 2f 

H 


11 

31i 


There is a char-road from Schwyz to 
Muotta, and from Yorauen to Glarus; 
the remainder of the way is traversed 
by a somewhat frequented bridle- 
track. The scenery is in general much 
inferior to that of the Klausen Pass, 
described in the last Rte., but the views 
of the Glarnisch from the neighbour¬ 
hood of the Klon See are finer than 
any on the rival pass. In fine weather 
a guide is not required, but a porter 
may be hired at Huotta or Yorauen. 



ROUTE K. — VORAUEN. 


179 


The char-road from Schwyz to 
Muotta turns aside from the road be¬ 
tween Schwyz and Brunnen at the 
hamlet of Ibach, about f m from the 
former, and 2^ m. from the latter 
place. Ibach stands at the opening of 
the Muottathal , which here forms a 
defile, leaving no space for cultivation. 
The road ascends along the 1. bank of 
the Muotta for about 1 m. to Ober- 
schonenbuch. Here the traveller may 
ascend the Frohnalpstock (Rte. A), 
and find quarters for the night at the 
Inn on the Stossberg. About h m. 
farther is a bridge by which the road 
passes to the rt. bank of the Muotta. 
This spot in 1799 was the scene of 
desperate fighting between the Rus¬ 
sians and the French. The former 
drove their opponents as far as Ober- 
schbnenbuch, but were unable to pene¬ 
trate farther, and after two days of 
mortal struggle, during which hundreds 
of bodies were carried by the torrent 
down to the L. of Lucerne, Suwarof 
was forced to retreat. A brief notice 
of that extraordinary campaign will be 
found in § 30, Rte. A. There is a 
foot-path from Schwyz, rather shorter 
and more agreeable than the road, by 
which the pedestrian may reach this 
part of the valley by the rt. bank. 

The scenery of the Muottathal is 
here very picturesque. The torrent 
forces its way amid rocks and fine 
trees, and receives tributary streams, 
several of which form pretty cascades. 
Beyond Ried the road again crosses 
the Muotta, and returns to the rt. bank 
before reaching 

Muotta (Inn: Hirsch, clean and rea¬ 
sonable), the chief village of the valley, 
nearly 3,000 ft. above the sea. When 
the Inn is full, respectable travellers 
are received in a convent of Francis¬ 
can nuns on application to the Supe¬ 
rior, or Frau Mutter. As the convent 
is poor, they should before departing 
give about the same amount as would 
be charged at the village Inn. Here 
the paths from Sissingen, and from the 
Kinzig Kulm (Rte. L), and that from 
Stacheiberg by the Bisithal (Rte. M), 


join that from the Pragel. The pas¬ 
senger bound for Glarus follows the 
horse-track in a direction somew T hat 
N. of E., and leaves on thert. the head 
of the valley of the Muotta, which is 
called Bisithal. 

The ascent is long and uninteresting, 
and the path stony, except in some 
spots where it is carried over marshy 
ground, where in wet weather the pas¬ 
sage is difficult for horses and unplea¬ 
sant for ladies. Nearly 3yhrs. must oe 
allowed for the ascent, but 2^hrs. suffice 
for the descent when the pass is taken 
in the opposite direction. Rather more 
than 1 m from Muotta the path crosses 
the stream descending from the pass, 
and the* mounts along the 1. bank till 
it reaches the gently-sloping boggy 
plateau that leads to the summit of the 

Pragel Pass. Though only 5,062 ft. 
above the sea, snow often lies here in 
patches throughout the greater part 
of the summer. Rough planks and 
large stones afford an uneasy footing 
across the marshy tract that lies on 
either side of the summit, and the 
treeless stony slopes offer no object to 
interest the stranger. After descend¬ 
ing gently for about 1 m. the scenery 
rapidly improves as the beautiful Klbn- 
thal opens out. The path becomes 
steeper, but offers better footing, and 
in little more than 1 hr., descending 
from the pass, the traveller reaches 
Richisau, a pretty hamlet, with a 
clean country inn, and about 1 br. 
farther arrives at 

Vorauen (Inns : bei Weber, good, 
attentive landlord ; bei Ebele, clean ; 
a large new hotel is well spoken of). 
This lies near the W. end of a beautiful 
little lake called Klon See, about 2 m. 
long, f m. broad, 420 ft. deep, and 2,640 
ft. above the sea, at the N. base of the 
Glarnisch, whose ice-capped crags are 
mirrored in its quiet waters. Vorauen 
affords the pleasantest head-quarters for 
a mountaineer and a lover of nature in 
this neighbourhood, and a boat on the 
lake facilitates many short excursions. 
The most interesting expedition is the 
accent of the Gliimisch. This great 




180 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. 


§2G. FOREST CANTONS. 


mountain, perhaps the most remarkable 
in Switzerland of those not immedi¬ 
ately connected with either of the 
main ranges of the Alps, forms the 
NE. extremity of the secondary range 
that divides the valiev of the Linth 
and the Klausen Pass from the depres¬ 
sion connecting Sehwyz with Glarus 
by the Pragel Pass. What distin¬ 
guishes the Gliirnisch from other moun¬ 
tains of about the same height in the 
Alps is the considerable mass of glacier 
that caps the higher summits, and de¬ 
scends in several directions, especially 
to WSW., in definite ice-streams. This 
offers a marked contrast to its highest 
neighbour to the W. — the Reiselstock 
(9,2U0') — which shows in summer 
merely scattered patches of snow that 
sometimes entirely disappear. The 
exceptional condition of the Gliirnisch 
arises from the fact that the summit 
affords a resting-place for snow of con¬ 
siderable extent, and slightly above 
the limit where the summer heat suf¬ 
fices to melt the annual downfall. The 
main mass, forming an island of rock 
that rises very steeply on all sides, 
presents three peaks arranged in de¬ 
scending order from WSW. to NNE. 
—the Hinter Glarnisch, locally called 
Biichistock (9,584'), Mittel Glarnisch , 
or Ruche (9,557'), and a singular 
tower-like summit called Vrenelisyartli 
(9,534'). Detached from the main 
mass is the promontory called Vorder 
Glarnisch (7,648'), immediately over¬ 
looking the town of Glarus. On the 
N. and NW. sides, facing the Klon- 
thal, the above-named peaks, rising to 
a height of about 7,000 ft. above the 
lake, are so formidably steep that the 
ascent must be practically impossible. 
The two higher summits are, however, 
reached without much difficulty from 
Yoi'auen. Following the path to the 
Pragel for about 1^ in. a deep glen is 
seen to open towards the S. A rough 
path mounts the slopes, winding to 
the 1. along the NE. side of the glen. 
About 4 hrs. from Vorauen suffices to 
reach the head of this glen, wdiich 
is closed by the glacier descending 


WSW. from the highest plateau of the 
mountain. The rocks on the N. side 
of the glacier are tempting, but should 
be avoided, and it is necessary to cross 
to the opposite side below the end of 
the glacier and just above a waterfall. 
The ascent then lies straight up the 
giacier over ice and neve, till in 7 or 
8 hrs. from Vorauen the ridge at the 
head of the glacier is reached, and the 
two summits of the Hinter and Mittel 
Glarnisch are seen separated by a deep 
gap. Either is accessible without much 
trouble, but the western and higher 
peak is usually selected. 14 hrs., ex¬ 
clusive of the halt at the top, should 
be allow ed for the expedition. 

The Vreneiisgiirtli, w r hich is lower 
by 53 ft. than the highest of the three 
summits, is far more difficult of access. 
It may probably be reached from the 
middle peak by travelling a trough¬ 
like depression (called the Furkeli) 
which separates them ; but the experi¬ 
ment does not seem to have been made, 
and it would involve a very long day’s 
work. The only successful attempts 
recorded have been from the S. side, 
where quarters for the night may be 
found at the Ober Guppen Alp, about 
3 hrs. above Scliwanden (§ 27, Rte. A). 
The ascent is not free from risk, as it 
involves a climb up and down a wall 
of limestone rock, where the project¬ 
ing points to which the cragsman must 
cling are easily detached, threatening 
peril to the climber himself or to those 
who are below him. 

The views from the Gliirnisch are 
extremely fine, combining a distant 
alpine panorama with a very striking 
foreground, especially on the side of 
the Klonthal. The Swfiss Alpine Club 
have decided to erect a hut on the pla¬ 
teau (about 7,800') affording shelter for 
the night. The researches of M. Bach- 
mann show that the mountain exhibits 
a nearly complete series of secondary 
deposits from the lias to the neocomian. 
Fossils abound at some points. 

Opposite to the Gliirnisch, on the 
NW. side of the Klonthal, is the much 
low'er range of the W iygis. The high- 




ROUTE L. -KINZIG KULM. 


181 


est point at the NE. end, immediately 
over Nettstal, is the Rautispitz (7,494'). 
This may be taken in the way from 
Vorauen to Wesen, descending from the 
summit to Obersee, and thence to 
Nafels (§ 27, Rte. A). The view 
from the Vorder Glarnisch (7,648') is, 
however, to be preferred. The top 
may be reached, with a guide, in 
4 hrs. 

There is a good road from Vorauen 
to Glarus, passing along the N. side of 
the Klon See. The pedestrian may 
avoid about m. of road by taking a 
boat along the lake. The valley de¬ 
scending from the lake towards the 
valley of the Linth is very picturesque, 
and enlivened by frequent cascades of 
the Lontsch torrent. At the manufac¬ 
turing village of Riedern , on rising 
ground above the junction of the 
Lontsch with the Linth, one road 
»eads to the rt. to Glarus, and another 
to the L to Nettstal, either place being 
about 1 m. distant. For an account of 
Glarus and the valley of the Linth, 
see § 27, Rte. A, The charge for a 
one-horse carriage from Glarus to 
Vorauen is 12 fr. 


Route L. 

MUOTTA TO ALTDORF. 

There are two ways from Muotta, 
described in the last Rte., to Altdorf. 
The first, interesting rather for its 
historical recollections than for its 
natural attractions, traverses the Kin- 
zig Kulm; the other and more beautiful 
way is by Sissingen, the only village 
on the E. shore of the Ray of Uri 
(Rte. A). 

L Bp the Kinzig Kulm. 7| to 8 hrs. 
.— About 15 min. E. of the village of 
Muotta is the junction of a lateral 
glen descending from the S. with the 
main stream of the Muotta which here 
issues from the Bisithal. A path 
mounts by the rt. bank of this glen. 
‘ The ascent is continued obliquely up 
a steep broken slope, till the path 
arrives eventually upon the wooded 


edge of a chasm, in which the invisi¬ 
ble stream, which issues from the high 
valley leading up to the pass, is heard 
descending iu cataracts into the Muotta 
Thai. A track up the mountain side, 
on the rt. bank of this stream, is now 
pursued; and, after 1 hr.’s walking 
from Muotta, the abrupt ascent ceases, 
and the valley above is entered. Having 
passed through a wood, the path crosses 
the river for the first time by some 
chalets (1| hr. from Muotta). The 
river is recrossed after another ^ of an 
hr.; a second forest is traversed, and a 
third bridge crossed (2^ hrs. from 
Muotta). The part of the valley below 
this bridge is narrow and picturesque, 
shut in on both sides by high white 
precipices. The rich green slopes N. 
of Muotta, speckled with chalets, and 
surmounted by vast cliffs, may be seen 
from favourable positions, whenever 
the eye is thrown back, through the 
opening of the valley. After the third 
bridge is crossed, a wild open basin is 
found, out of which the track is seen 
ascending from the SW. corner. At 
this corner the river is again crossed. 

hr. more are requisite before the 
summit of the pass is attained. As 
far as some chalets, about half-way 
up, the path may be traced without 
much difficulty, as it takes for its 
guide the falling stream, now reduced 
to a mere rill. Towards the summit, 
however, it is faintly marked, and 
liable to be confounded with other 
tracks. The stream is left behind, 
the direction of ascent being towards 
the south, among little hillocks and 
hollows filled with snow, over open 
ground, where many directions might 
be taken, and the proper route lost. 
A short pole marks the crest of the 
pass (6,791 ft.), which is gained in 
about 4 hrs. from Muotta.’ 

There is a fine view from an emi¬ 
nence about 10 min. E. of the col. 

‘ The descent into the Schiichen 
Thai is long and steep, but the path is 
well traced, and the pole on the Kinzig 
Kulm , being seen for a long time, 
would help to guide the ascending 



ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 26. FOREST CANTONS. 


182 

pedestrian on this side, though it is 
useless for that purpose on the other. 
The path lies throughout down the 
pastures on the rt. bank of the stream, 
but generally at a considerable distance 
from it. The Schiichen Thai is reached 
at a point a little below Spiringen, 
after a descent of 2^ hrs. From thence 
to Biirglen it is a walk of f of an hr., 
and another | hr brings the traveller 
to Altdorf.’—[M]. 

This pass is memorable for the pas¬ 
sage of the Russian army under Su- 
warof in 1799, of which, as well as the 
other events of the same campaign, 
a brief notice will be found in § 30, 
Rte. A. 

2. Bu the Riemenstaldenthal. About 
7 hrs. 

A streamlet descending from the 
SW. through a lateral glen close to the 
village of Muotta marks the line that 
is taken to a pass lying between a 
mountain called Drei Engeln (6,260') 
and the Kaiserstuhl (8,258'). From 
the depression between these summits 
a glen descends to the shore of the 
Bay of Uri. The path passes the 
village of Riemenstalden, which gives 
its name to the narrow valley, and 
finally reaches the margin of the lake 
at Sissingen in about 5 his. from 
Muotta. Th< path from Sissingen to 
Altdorf along the steep slopes of the 
Axenberg was formerly rather diffi¬ 
cult, and involved several ascents and 
descents. The new road along that 
side of the lake makes it an easy walk 
from Sissingen (also called Sisikon) to 
Altdorf or to Schwyz. Further in¬ 
formation is desired as to this walk, 
which is doubtless interesting. 


Route M. 

MUOTTA TO STACHELBERG, BY THE 
BISITHAL. 

This is a rather laborious walk of 
about 10 hrs, and should not be 
undertaken without a guide, who may, 


however, be taken from Eigen as well 
as from Muotta. 

As mentioned in Rte. K, the upper 
part of the valley of Muotta is called 
Bisithal. The torrent formed by the 
confluence of several mountain streams 
flows through this upland glen, keep¬ 
ing a NW. direction till it enters 
the wider part of the valley, or 
Muottathal proper, just above the 
village of Muotta, and there joins the 
stream from the Pragel. The range 
of mountains dividing the track of the 
Pragel from that of the Klausen 
(Rte. I) extends from the Axenberg, 
overlooking the L. of Lucerne, to the 
Scheyenstock, close to Stachelberg. 
This range is crossed by the path of 
the Kinzig Kulm, described in the 
last Rte. There is no doubt that 
it might be traversed at many other 
points, but the most direct way from 
Muotta to Stachelberg lies by the 
N. side of the Scheyenstock, crossing 
the ridge that connects the last-men¬ 
tioned range with that of the Glarniseh. 
A horse-track leads in 2^ hrs. trom 
Muotta to Eigen , the only village of 
the Bisithal. Beyond that place the 
path is practicable only on foot, and 
towards the head of the valley it is so 
little marked that it is very difficult to 
keep the true direction without a 
guide. This observation especially 
applies to the summit of the pass, 
which is a rocky plateau of consi¬ 
derable extent and broken surface, 
where the drainage is carried off 
through crevices in the rock, instead 
of descending to the valleys on either 
side through channels having a defi¬ 
nite direction. The scenery of the 
Bisithal is highly picturesque, and 
that of the upper plateau wild and 
impressive; and the pass, now rarely 
traversed, deserves to be more fre¬ 
quented. The plateau conies to an 
abrupt termination on the side of the 
Linththal, and the descent is long 
: and steep, giving very fine views 
of the surrounding mountains. 






ROUTE N. — KARRENEGG PASS. 


183 


Route N. 

LACHEN TO SCHWYZ OR GLARUS, BY 
THE WAGGI THAL. 

Lachen to the Karrenegg Pass hrs., thence to 
Schwvz 7 hrs., or to Glarus 4$ hrs. 

The Waggi Thai is a pastoral 
valley, rarely visited by strangers, 
which descends about due N. to the 
Lake of Zurich from the mountains 
lying N. of the Pragel Pass. By an 
easy pass at the head of the valley, it 
enables those who follow this Rte. 
from the L. of Zurich to reach Glarus 
or Muotta in a long day’s walk. 

At Galgenen, £ hr. E. of Lachen on 
the road to Glarus (§ 27, Rte. A), a 
path turns to the 1. and mounts a hill 
called Stalden, commanding fine views 
of the L. of Zurich, and in little more 
than 1 hr. from Lachen leads the 
traveller to the opening of the Waggi 
Thai, where the torrent tails through 
a ravine in a succession of cascades. 
The path mounts gently through the 
valley till in 2^ hrs. from Lachen it 
reaches the village of Vorder Wdggi- 
thal( 2,428'), lying at the E. foot of the 
Gross Auberg (5,584'). This moun¬ 
tain, which separates the Waggi Thai 
from the valley of the Sihl, presents a 
very bold aspect, and the summit com¬ 
mands a fine view. A path over the 
ridge on the N. side of the Gr. Auberg 
leads in 3 hrs.to Ensiedlen (Rte. E). 
[The traveller bound for Glarus who 
does not care to pass through the Klon- 
thal (Rte. K), may take a much more 
direct course from Vorder Waggithal, 
by the Trebsen Alp to the pass, called 
Schwandi Scheidegg (4,695'), across the 
ridge which here forms the boundary 
between Schwyz and Glarus. Thence 
he descends by the hamlet of Niedersee 
to Nafels, on the high road from Wesen 
to Glarus, which is thus reached in 
about hrs. from Lachen.] 

Two paths lead up the valley from 
Vorder Waggithal. That called the 
summer track by the rt. bank of the 
stream is rather easier, but less in¬ 
teresting. The winter track keeps to 
the 1. bank amidst huge blocks of stone, 


the remains of a bergfall from the 
Gross Auberg which, according to 
tradition, overwhelmed a village that 
once lay here. A pretty waterfall is 
passed on the 1., and farther on is 
a cavern called Schuhmacherloeh. 
After passing the defile that separates 
the two villages, the mountains on 
either side recede, giving a ph asing 
view of the head of the vallev. and 
the path, in 1 hr. from Vorder Waggi¬ 
thal, reaches 

If in ter Waggithal , the highest vil¬ 
lage in the valley. There is here a 
country inn, and the neighbourhood 
offers attractions to the botanist, and 
also to the geologist, who may find 
in the neighbourhood nummulitic and 
cretaceous fossils. The neighbouring 
mountains offer scope for many ex¬ 
cursions. The Radertenstock (7,530'), 
which is the highest, is said to be 
somewhat difficult of access and to re¬ 
quire a guide. The Sehdnberg (6,837') 
is easier, but commands a less wide 
panorama. 

If the weather be uncertain, or the 
clouds lie low, it is prudent to take a 
guide from Hinter Wiiggithal. The 
ascent of the head of the valley is in 
places rather steep, but quite free 
from difficulty. After passing the 
Kleinalmend Alp and the Ober Alp, 
the summit of the Karrenegg Pass 
(5,151) is reached in 2f hrs. from 
Hinter Waggithal. The summit com¬ 
mands a fine view of the Glarniscb. 
Descending on the S. side, the chalets 
of the Saas Alp are reached in ^ hr. 
The traveller bound for Glarus de¬ 
scends thence in if hr. by Richisau to 
Vorauen (Rte. K). If his object be to 
reach Muotta and Schwyz, it is neces¬ 
sary to bear to the rt. keeping nearly 
at a level, until in If hr. the summit 
of the Pragel is attained (see Rte. K). 

[An interesting but circuitous wav 
from Hinter Waggithal to Vorauen 
lies by the pass called Bockmdtteli , 
descending to Ober See in the Canton 
Glarus. and thence crossing the 
Wiggis range by a path referred to iu 
Rte. K.] 




184 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 27. THE TODI DISTRICT. 


SECTION 27. 

THE TODI DISTRICT. 

i 

In several preceding portions of this 
work the attention of the reader has 
been directed to the significance of 
that main line of valley which traverses 
Switzerland from Martigny to Coire, 
and marks the division between the 
Pennine and Lepontine Alps on the 
one hand, and the central chain of 
Switzerland on the other. The latter 
extends with great regularity from 
WSW. to ENE. parallel to the main 
valley with but a single break, where 
it is completely cut through by the 
defile of Schollinen, giving a passage 
to the Reuss between Andermatt and 
Amsteg. Although this line of dis¬ 
ruption has much geographical im¬ 
portance, it has no corresponding 
geological significance. It serves to 
fix the limit between the Bernese 
Alps, described in Chap. VII., and the 
eastern prolongation of the same range, 
which may conveniently be described 
as the Todi Chain from the name of 
its highest summit. It is this chain, 
with its northern outlyers extending 
to the Lake of Wallenstadt, that is in¬ 
cluded in the present section under the 
name Todi district. Its limits, from 
Andermatt to Sargans, are fixed by 
the Oberalp Pass and the valley of 
the Vorder Rhein—by the deep val¬ 
ley, in great part filled by the Lake 
of Wallenstadt, extending from Sar¬ 
gans to Wesen—by the Linth Thai 
and the Klausen Pass, connecting Sta- 
chelberg with Altdorf—and, finally, 
by the valley of the Reuss, between 
Altdorf and Andermatt. 

The Todi Chain is naturally divided 
into six minor groups, separated from 
each other by passes, the lowest of 
which exceeds 7,500 ft. 

1 . The westernmost of these is the 
Crispalt, a rugged range including 
many peaks of nearly equal height. 
The highest of these are the Piz Giuf 


(10,164') and Viz Ner (10,036'). On 
the Swiss Federal Map the name Cris¬ 
palt is given to a southern, but second¬ 
ary, peak of Piz Giuf, measuring 10,099 
ft. W. of the main group is the Rienzer- 
stock (9,777'), while a northern outlyer 
culminates in the Bristenstock (10,089'). 

2 . E. of the Crispalt, the Kreuzli or 
Hrixli Pass (7,710') separates this from 
the rather higher mass of the Ober- 
alpstock, whose highest summit is the 
Piz Cotschen , or Tgietschen (10,925'). 

Here occurs a partial break in the 
continuity of the chain. The crest of 
the snowy range connecting the Ober- 
alpstock with the Todi nowhere sinks 
to 9,000 feet, but makes a sweep con¬ 
vex to the N., forming a semicircular 
recess, whose numerous glacier tor¬ 
rents are all poured into the Rhine 
through the Val Russein below Dis- 
sentis. Two glacier passes lead over 
this part of the chain—one to W., over 
the Brunnigletscher to the Maderaner 
Thai; the other to the NE., over the 
Sand Glacier, to the Linth Thai. 

3. The Todi , the monarch of this 
region (11,887'), is attended by nume¬ 
rous secondary peaks that arise from 
the extensive snow-fields surrounding 
the central mountain. A very con¬ 
siderable outlyer, whose chief sum¬ 
mits are the Scheerhorn (11.142') and 
Windgelle (10.463'), belonging to the 
Cantons Uri and Glarus, is connected 
with the Todi by the range of the 
Clariden Grat. A less important 
branch encloses the Biferten Glacier, 
and terminates in the Selbsanft, S. of 
Stachelberg. Towards the valley of 
the Vorderrhoin a high promontory 
stretches nearly due S. from the 
central peaks of the Todi, and is 
crowned by the lofty summit of the 
Stockgron, or Piz Russein of Dufour’s 
Map (11,211'). Another considerable 
ramification of the same mass termi¬ 
nates farther to the E. in the remark¬ 
able peak of the Brtgelser Horn, or 
Piz Tnmbif (10,663'). 

4. The Kisten Pass (8 281') separates 
the Todi group from the Hansstoek, 
whose summit attains 10,355 feet; 




ROUTE A.-ZURICH TO STACHELBERG. 


185 


a branch of this latter group forms the 
range of the Freiberge in Glarus. 

5. The Hausstock is cut off from the 
rather lower but more extended mass 
of the Vorub by the Panixer Pass 
(7,907'). Numerous summits, of which 
the Vorub proper, Ofen , Zwolfihof n, 
and Piz Griisch are the most impor¬ 
tant, approach very near, but do not 
quite attain to 10,000 feet. 

6 . The eastern limit of the latter 
group is marked by the Segnes Pass 
(8,616')—the most frequented of those 
connecting the Canton Glarus with 
the Vorderrhein—beyond which arises 
a wide-stretching mass of rock and 
glacier, to which Theobald has given 
the collective name Sardonagebirg. 

This mass is cleft by a deep valley 
—the Kalfeuserthal: one branch, 
culminating in the Scheibe (9,587'), 
extends ENE. to the Srfdbssli Kopf 
(7,313') over Pfiifers, while another, 
including the fine peak of the Ringcl- 
spitz (10,660'), runs due E. to the low 
Kunkels Pass, separating this range 
from the Calanda. The latter re¬ 
markable mountain must, owing to the 
similarity of its geological structure, be 
considered an outlyer from the Todi 
chain, though the direction of the 
ridge seems to show the action of the 
same forces that have operated.in the 
Adula group (§31) on the S. side of 
the Vorderrhein. 

Besides the three outlying masses 
already mentioned on the N. side of the 
chain—the Bristenstock connected with 
the Crispalt, the Clariden Alps with 
the Todi, and the Freiberge with the 
Hausstock—a more extensive though 
less lofty mountain district extends N. 
and NW. from the Scheibe to the neigh¬ 
bourhood of the E. of Wallen stadt,. 
The irregularity of the disposition of 
the valleys and ridges in this tract 
seems to show that they owe their 
present form to denudation and erosion 
acting on the calcareous strata of which 
they are mainly composed, rather than 
to more general mechanical causes 
acting in definite directions. 

The N. side of the Todi chain, with 


Stachelberg as head-quarters, is now 
frequented by mountaineers. Elm in 
the Sernfthal (Rte. K) is also a con¬ 
venient stopping-place. On the S. 
side of the chain, Ilanz (2,356') and 
Dissentis (3,773') afford good quarters. 
Brigels (Rte. G) is an interesting spot, 
but the accommodation is inferior, A 
tolerable Inn at the head of the Kal¬ 
feuserthal is still a desideratum. 

Much valuable information respect¬ 
ing the Todi chain may be found in a 
small volume by the late Pr. Theobald 
of Coire, entitled Das Biindner Ober- 
land, Chur, Flitz, 1861. The same 
active mountaineer and geologist has 
published a panorama taken from the 
Piz Mundaun, near Ilanz. The reader 
may also consult various papers by 
Prof. Ulrich, and the Jahrbuch of the 
Swiss Alpine Club. The whole dis¬ 
trict is included in sheet 14 of the 
Swiss Federal Map. which is indispen¬ 
sable to the mountaineer who would 
explore this p rtion of the Alps. The 
map given in this volume has no pre¬ 
tension to accuracy of detail. 


Route A. 

ZURICH TO STACHELBERG, BY GLARUS. 
ASCENT OF THE TODI. 

Eng. 

miles 

Rapperschwvl (by steamer) . 19$ 

Wesen (t>y road or rly.) . . l(ji 

Glarus (by road or rly.) . . 8 

Stachelberg (by road) . . 10$ 



The traveller going from Zurich to 
Glarus has a choice between various 
modes of conveyance, but most persons 
prefer to avail themselves of the 
steamer on the lake as far as Rapper- 
schwyl. Those who prefer to make 
the entire journey by rly. join the line 
leading from Winterthur to Wesen 
(described in Rte. C) at Wallisellen, 





1S8 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. 

about 5^ in. from Zurich ; by that way 
the distance is 8 m. more than by water, 
but by time considerably less. 

There are good roads along both 
shores of the lake, but the scenery is not 
so interesting as to induce many travel¬ 
lers to select them in preference to the 
steamer. A brief notice is here given 
of the chief places on either shore of 
the lake seen by a passenger from the 
steamer. The form of the lake is that 
of a bow concave to the NE. We shall 
call the shore which remains on the 1. 
of a passenger going from Zurich the 
N. shore, and that on the rt. hand the 
S. shore. 

On leaving Zurich the traveller is 
struck by the large number of villas 
seen near the lake on either side, not 
as on other Swiss lakes inhabited by 
strangers, but nearly all belonging to 
townspeople, and giving evidence of 
the prosperity of the city. 

On a height above the S. shore is 
Thalwyl, whose church commands a 
distant view. This is the nearest point 
to the Hochwacht, the summit of the 
Albis hills. See § 26, Rte. B, where 
Hot gen, the starting-point of the car¬ 
riages plying to Zug, is also noticed. 
On the N. shore opposite Horgen is 

Meilen (Inns: Lowe; Sonne),a large 
village with a Gothic church of the 15th 
century, near the base of the Pfannen- 
stiel( 2,418'), a hill commanding one of 
the finest views over the lake. This 
place has become famous for the disco¬ 
very of extensive remains of lacustrine 
habitations belonging to a race far 
anterior in date to the oldest historical 
records. These remains were first 
brought to light at the neighbouring 
hamlet of Obermeilen during the winter 
of 1853—1854, when the waters of the 
lake were lower than they had been 
seen at any time within human memory. 
They were first described by Dr. F. 
Keller, of Zurich. Very interesting 
details will be found in M. Troy on’s 
work, ‘ Habitations lacustresdes Temps 
unciens et modemes,’ and in a more 
abridged form in Sir Charles Lyell’s | 
‘ Antiquity of Man.’ 


. § 27. THE TOD1 DISTRICT. 

On the S. shore is the peninsula of 
Au, whose form is not easily reconciled 
with some recent theories as to the 
excavation of the alpine lake-basins 
by glaciers. A little farther from 
Zurich, on the same side of the lake, is 

Wddenschwyl (Inns: Seehof; Engel; 
Hirsch), a busy town, one of the centres 
of silk-weaving, which is extensively 
carried on in the Canton Zurich. A 
short excursion may be made to the 
ruined castle on an adjoining height, 
and to a neighbouring eminence called 
Burghalden, commanding a fine view. 
On the N. shore, nearly opposite, is 

Stafa (Inns : Rossli; Sonne), a large 
and thriving village, where a stranger, 
wishing to see something of modern 
Swiss life and manners, may well halt 
for a day or two. There are many 
pretty walks in the neighbourhood. 
Goethe twice resided here for some 
time. 

Richterschwyl (Inn: Engel, where 
visitors often remain en pension ) is the 
starting-point for carriages plying to 
Schwyz and to Einsiedeln (§ 26, Rtes. 
D and E). So far both shores of the 
lake belong to the Canton Zurich; 
henceforward the S. shore belongs to 
Schwyz, and the opposite side to St. 
Gall. About 2 m. E. of Richterschwyl 
the steamer passes near two small 
islands, the larger of which, called 
Ufen.au , afforded a retreat to Ulrich 
von Hiitten, who died there in 1523. 
The island belongs to the monks of 
Einsiedeln, and contains a small church 
said to date from the 10th century. 

Here a stranger may easily suppose 
that he has reached the end of the lake. 
A tongue of land advances from the S. 
shore more than half-way across it, and 
is united to the opposite bank by a 
bridge, just 1 m. in length, supported 
on rather slender oak piles. The lake 
extends, however, fully 6 m. E. of this 
imperfect barrier, but does not attain 
nearly so great a depth. The con¬ 
sequence is, that the E. end is not 
rarely frozen over in winter, whereas 
| that very seldom occurs throughout the 
* remaining portion of its surface. 



ROUTE A.-LINTH CANAL. 


187 


Rappersc.hwyl (Inns: Schwan, good 
and reasonable ; Poste, facing the lake, 
not recommended ; H. du Lac, not 
clean; Freihof, in the town; with 
several others), lying at the N. end of 
the bridge, is the principal station 
(after Zurich) for the lake steamers, 
and the point at which the rly. from 
Zurich and from Winterthur reaches 
the shore. It is a very curious old 
town, which, with a small adjoining 
district, maintained a separate existence 
as an independent republic until the 
French entered Switzerland in 1798. 
The ancient Rathhaus is worth a visit, 
containing much ancient wood-carving 
and other relics of a past age. The 
old Grafenburg, or castle of the Counts 
of Rapperschwyl, stands in a very 
picturesque position on the hill above 
the town. Near at hand is an Inn— 
zum Schiitzenhaus — where visitors 
resort for refreshment. Tht, bridge 
(§ 26, Rte. E) dates from 1350, but 
was reconstructed during the present 
century. 

When the depth of water permits, the 
steamer passes the bridge of Rapper¬ 
schwyl, and crosses to the N. shore, 
where are seen the two towers of the 
church of Lachen (Inn : Bar), whence 
a pedestrian may reach Giarus through 
the Waggi Thal(§ 26, Rte. N). [Those 
who prefer the road to the railway may 
land at Lachen (5 steamers daily from 
Zurich) and go on by country road to 
Giarus, a distance of 18^ m. After 
passing Reichenburg the road quits 
the Canton Schwyz, and enters 
that of Giarus. Traversing in suc¬ 
cession Nieder and Ober lirnen, this 
road reaches Nafels on tne main 
road from Wesen to Giarus (see be¬ 
low).] 

The E. end of the lake of Zurich is 
reached at Schmerikon (Inns : Rbssli ; 
Adler), a station on the rly. leading to 
Giarus or to Coire. The rly. thence to 
Wesen is described in Rte. C. The 
tract of country separating the lakes of 
Zurich and Wallenstadt is in great 
part an alluvial plain produced by the 
detritus carried down by the Linth. 


The difference between the level of the 
lakes is but 52 ft., and there is little 
room to doubt that they once formed a 
continuous sheet of water. The mass 
of mineral matter carried down by the 
Linth first filled up the narrow part of 
the ancient lake basin near Wesen, 
and then gradually extended to the 
westward and formed the low tract ex¬ 
tending between the bases of the hills 
from Uznach to Reichenburg. The 
valley of the Linth, forming with its 
tributaries the Canton Giarus, opens to 
the S. opposite Wesen at the W. end of 
the L of Wal enstadt. The inunda¬ 
tions of the Linth, and the masses of 
debris brought down from the high 
mountains that enclose it, were a 
source of constant danger, damage, and 
disease to the inhabitants of Wesen, 
and the low country stretching from 
thence to the westward. The Linth 
constantly changed its direction, and 
threw gravel and debris across the 
course of the stx*eam that drained the 
L. of Wallenstadt. About the begin¬ 
ning of this century Conrad Escher, of 
Zurich, devised a plan for restraining 
the mischief, and restoring to cultiva¬ 
tion a vast tract that had been rendered 
barren and unhealthy. Instead of being 
left to find its way to the Lake of 
Zurich through the valley between 
Wesen and Schmerikon, the Linth was 
made to flow through an artificial 
channel, since called Escher Canal, 
into the L. of Wallenstadt, and to de¬ 
posit its burden of detritus in the depths 
of the lake ; while the Linth Canal, cut 
through the alluvial plain to the W., 
leads the drainage of the lake (in¬ 
cluding the waters of the Linth) from 
Wesen to the L. of Zurich, and serves 
at the same time to drain the country 
on either bank. Few public works 
have been more successful, and his 
fellow-citizens justly conferred on its 
author and his descendants the ho¬ 
norary title ‘ von der Linth.’ In the 
course of ages the W. end of the L. of 
Wallenstadt will be filled up by the 
detritus of the Linth, and some future 
engineer will have to devise a new 




188 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND, 

plan for disposing of the materials 
which it is incessantly hearing down 
from the mountain tops to the plain. 

Wesen, standing at the junction of 
the railway to Sargans and Coire with 
the branch to Glarus, and close to the 
Linth Canal, is described in Rte. C. 
There are six trains daily to Glarus, 
employing half an hour to travel 7^m. 
The distance by road is 8 m. 

On leaving the Wesen Station, the 
rly. traverses a long lattice bridge 
thrown over the Linth Canal. To the 
rt. is seen the village of Nieder Urnen 
on the road from Lachen to Niifels 
(see above), backed by the Hirzli 
(5,387'), sometimes mounted for the 
sake of the fine view over the Lakes 
of Zurich and Wallenstadt. About 3 m. 
from Wesen is Niifels (Inns: Hirsch; 
Schwert), a large village with a fine 
church and Capuchin convent, memo¬ 
rable for the extraordinary victory 
achieved in 1388 by a handful of 
Swiss mountaineers over 6,000 (some 
accounts say 12,000) Austrian troops. 
Having been forced to retire before the 
superior numbers of the enemy, and to 
yield possession of Nafels, 500 men of 
Glarus took up a position on the 
slopes W. of the village. With the 
help of blocks of stone rolled down 
from above, they withstood the enemy 
and made some disorder in his ranks, 
when the timely arrival of 30 con¬ 
federates from Schwyz spread the be¬ 
lief that further reinforcements were 
at hand. With desperate valour, the 
Swiss charged the dense masses of 
their opponents* threw them into utter 
confusion, and drove them back to 
Wesen with the loss of 2,500 men. 
Eleven upright stones mark the site of 
the fiercest struggle, and a festival held 
on the first Thursday of April annually 
recalls to the memory of posterity the 
deeds of their ancestors. On the 
opposite side of the valley, close to the 
Escher Canal,through which the Linth 
is led to the L. of Wallenstadt, is 
Mollis , a large manufacturing village, 
in whose church rest the bones of the 
Swiss heroes who fell at Nafels. 


. § 27. THE TODI DISTRICT. 

[A short ascent to the W. leads from 
Niifels to two small lakes called Nieder 
See (reached in 1 hr.), and Ober See 
(2 hrs. from Nafels), by which lies a 
very picturesque walk to Vorauen 
across the range of the Wiggis (§26, 
Rte. K), or else to the Waggi Thai 
(§ 26, Rte. N). The two lakes well 
deserve a visit from persons remaining 
at Glarus or Wesen.] 

Netstall is a large manufacturing 
village close to the opening of the 
Kionthal, and lying at the E. base of 
the Wiggis range. It is exposed to 
avalanches from the adjoining heights. 

The scenery of the Linth Thai is 
throughout so fine, that the traveller 
who traverses it in the railway or a 
covered carriage suffers a great loss ; 
but this remark holds especially as to 
the approach to Glarus, backed by the 
noble mass of the Glarniseh, while a 
little to the 1., in the background, is 
seen the range of the Freiberge cul¬ 
minating in the Klirpfstock (9,180'). 

Glarus (Inns: Glarner Hof, new, 
good, and reasonable; Rabe, also new; 
Schweizerhof; and several other new 
houses) is the chief town of the Can¬ 
ton, 1,490 ft. above the sea, no longer 
to be recognised, since it was almost 
totally destroyed by fire on May 10, 
1861. The large subscriptions raised 
in Switzerland, aided by contributions 
from England and other countries, 
and the industry and energy of the 
inhabitants, have already replaced 
their ancient homes by more solid 
and stately buildings, in which, how¬ 
ever, there is little to interest a 
stranger. The town and territory 
forming the present canton were long 
subject to the convent of Sackingen, 
founded by an Irish Saint, named 
Fridolin, who first preached the gos¬ 
pel in this region. After successfully 
resisting in arms the forces of Austria, 
the people purchased their emancipa¬ 
tion from the seignorial rights of the 
abbesses of Sackingen. After intes¬ 
tine struggles between the Catholics 
and Protestants,peace was established; 
! and this is one of the few districts in 



o 



























ROUTE A. 


THE LINTH TIIAL. 


189 


Switzerland where by mutual agree¬ 
ment the same church serves alter¬ 
nately for the public worship of the 
rival creeds. The people are indus¬ 
trious and given to manufacturing pur¬ 
suits, but distinguished even in Swit¬ 
zerland by their love of gain. In the 
neighbourhood of Stachelberg tourists 
are sometimes called upon to pay toll 
for using a path that is claimed by the 
peasant landholder as private property, 
and the guides and herdsmen with 
whom a mountaineer comes into con¬ 
tact display a grasping spirit that is not 
agreeable. Few districts in Switzer¬ 
land can display finer scenery, or offer 
more agreeable quarters to a moun¬ 
taineer, than Vorauen, Stachelberg, and 
Elm. 

Glarus may serve as a starting-point 
for several interesting excursions. 1 he 
easiest and the most interesting of 
these is that to Vorauen (§ 26, Rte. K), 
easily reached by a good carriage- 
road. The Vorder Glarnisch (7,648') 
may be ascended from the town by a 
rather circuitous course, winding round 
the N. and W. sides of the mountain. 
The JRautispitz (7.494'') over Nets tall 
is more easily attained from the N. 
and W. sides than from Glarus. 

On the opposite side of the main 
valley the nearest summit is that of 
the Schilt (7,503';, but the Frohtialp- 
stock (6,982')—not to be confounded 
with the mountain of the same name 
near Brunnen on the L. of Lucerne 
(§ 26, Rte. A)—is said to offer a finer 
view. It may be ciimbed in 4^ hrs. 
either from Glarus or from Mollis. 

[More interesting than either of the 
last-mentioned are the mountain paths 
from Glarus to the L. of Wallenstadt, 
for which a guide should be taken. 
Ascending to the Miirtschen Alp, the 
traveller may descend by the E. side of 
the Miirtschen stock to Obstalden or 
Miihlehorn on the lake shore. One of 
the peaks of the last-named mountain 
may be ascended on the way, but it is 
doubtful whether the highest summit, 
8,012 ft. in height, has been attained. 
By bearing to the rt. before reaching 


the Miirtschen Alp, the traveller may 
pass the ridge to the E., and descend 
upon a group of small lakes lying at 
the head of the Murgthal, through 
which he may descend to Murg 
(Rte. C) on the Lake of Wallenstadt. 
A third way to the lake, easier than 
either of those above pointed out, is by 
the Platten Alp, on the W. side of the 
Miirtschenstock, descending to Ob- 
stalden by K/euzerbery. These passes 
all command very beautiful views. 

An omnibus runs twice a day be¬ 
tween Glarus and Stachelberg or Linth- 
thal. A one-horse carriage costs 12 fr. 
— with two horses, 17 fr. 

The pedestrian, ascending the Linth 
Thai from Glarus, may take a very 
agreeable path to Mitlodi by thf 
Uescherieter. With a little sacrifice of 
time, he gains very picturesque views 
of the valley and the neighbouring 
mountains. 

Following the carriage - road, the 
traveller on leaving the town passes on 
the 1. a bridge leading to the large and 
thriving village of Enmda, on the op¬ 
posite side of the valley. A very 
gentle ascent leads to Mitlodi (Inn: 
Rossii), immediately at the E. base of 
the Glarnisch. The ascent of the 
third and most difficult peak, called 
Vrenelis Garth (§ 26, Rte. K), is best 
made from hence. At the junction of 
the Sernfthal (Rte. K) with the main 
valley, only 1.700 ft. above the sea, is 
Schwanden (Inn: Adler, plain but 
good country Inn), about 4 m. from 
Glarus, and H m. from Mitlodi. Here 
the ascent of the main valley, which 
had hitherto lain due S., bends some¬ 
what to W. Keeping to the road on 
the 1. bank which has been followed 
since the traveller left Glarus, he 
passes a pretty waterfall of the Leukel- 
bach fed by the glaciers of the Glar¬ 
nisch, and in 3 m. from Schwanden 
reaches Luchsinyen (Inn: Freihof), at 
the opening of a wild ravine issuing 
due E. from the S. base of the Glar¬ 
nisch. In the background is seen the 
Reiselstoch (9,200'), the nearest rival 
of the Glarnisch. The higher of 



190 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND 

its two peaks is said to be inacces¬ 
sible (?). 

At Luchsingen the road crosses a 
bridge over the Linth to Hatzingen, a 
thriving village on the rt. bank, and 
just beyond it leaves to the 1. a fine 
waterfall of the Diesbach. After tra¬ 
versing several hamlets the traveller 
reaches Riiti, about 9 m. from Glarus, 
where, if on foot, he may cross the 
river, and reach Stachelberg by a 
shorter and more agreeable way than 
the road. 

On the rt. bank of the Linth, l^m. 
beyond Riiti, is the village of Linththal 
(Inns; Bar; Rabe). For a mountaineer 
either of the above very fair country 
Inns offers some advantages over the 
larger and handsomer ebtablishment 
at Stachelberg, which is apt to be 
overcrowded, and where a pedestrian 
arriving with knapsack and alpen¬ 
stock does not always receive much 
attention. A few hundred yards 
lower down the valley, and on the 
opposite or W. bank of the river, is 
Stachelberg, a large establishment pri¬ 
marily intended for patients who use 
the mineral waters, but which, owing 
to the beauty of its position and its 
good accommodation, has become a 
frequented resort of tourists in this 
part of Switzerland. The establish¬ 
ment consists of two large buildings 
connected by a covered gallery The 
mineral spring, which rises in a cleft 
nearly 1,000 ft. above the Baths, is 
strongly impregnated with sulphur and 
alkaline salts, and is considered effica¬ 
cious in some cases of rheumatism and 
diseases of the bones and skin. The 
supply is so small that but a limited 
number of baths can be supplied daily. 
The number of visitors is often more 
than sufficient to fill the establishment, 
and in that case passing travellers 
are sent to a succursale of the hotel on 
the opposite bank of the river, or may 
resort to the rustic, but not bad. Inns 
at the adjoining village of Linththal. 
As a hotel the house at Stachelberg is 
seen to better advantage in autumn 
when the bathing visitors have de- 


§ 27. TIIE TODl DISTRICT. 

!parted. On Sundays pleasure-parries 
I resort hither from Glarus, and make 
the house rather noisy. The charges 
are reasonable, especially for those who 
remain some time and make an agree¬ 
ment with the landlord. 

The position of Stachelberg is ex¬ 
tremely picturesque, and at the same 
time convenient for mountain excur¬ 
sions ; but it is rather a drawback that, 
as compared with similar places in the 
Alps, this lies low, only 2,178 ft. above 
the sea. The Baths stand at the L. 
foot of the Braunwaldberg, which is a 
portion of the mass of the Scheyen- 
stock. Immediately opposite, on the 
E. side of the Linth Thai, is the opening 
of the Durnachthal, through which lies 
the path to Elm by the Richetli Pass 
(Rte. M). The grandest objects in 
view are, however, the peaks that en¬ 
close the head of the Linth Thai. To the 
left rises the Selbsanft, a colossal tower 
of rock capped with glacier, and in the 
background the still higher peaks of the 
Bifertenstock, Piz Frisal, and Tbdi. 

Of the many excursions that may 
be made from Stachelberg or Linththal, 
the most interesting are those lying 
towards the head of the valley. The 
fall of the Schrevenbach, the 1’anten- 
briicke, the Unter Sand Alp, the fall 
of the Oberstaffelbach, the Ober Sand 
Alp, and the Biferten Gratli, are 
successive stage’s in the way taken on 
the ascent of the Tbdi described below, 
and each of them offers sufficient in¬ 
ducements to the travtdler to make it 
the object of an excursion from the 
Baths. Of other points deserving a 
visit, the following may be specified : 

The Fall of the Fdtschbach, reached 
in ^ hr. by the path leading to the 
Klausen Pass (§ 26, Rte. I). 

The Sassberg (6,555') rising on the 
N. side of the Durnachthal in the 
angle between it and the Linth Thai. 
A tine view is gained from a point 
that may be reached on horseback ; 
but the summit, which gives a pano¬ 
rama of the Freiberge and most of the 
Glarus ranges, is attainable only on foot. 

• Tha fiuest walk in the neighbour- 





ROUTE A. — EXCURSIONS FROM STACHELBERG. 


191 


bood consists in taking the shorter 
path to the Kistengrat (Rte. G), by 
the Tritt Alp, till it meets the ordinary 
route by the Pantenbriicke, and then 
returning home that way. It takes 
about 5 hrs. and requires a steady 
head, as there is one not very easy bit 
of rock ascent.’—[J. R. K.] 

Professor Ulrich has given an ac¬ 
count of an excursion from Stachel- 
berg, in which he made the ascent of 
the Kammersiock (6,975') and the 
Gemschfayrstock (9,734'). The first is 
perfectly easy of access ; the second 
comparatively difficult, but with a 
competent guide the ascent may be 
accomplished in one long day from 
Stachelberg. 

Crossing the Fatschbachby the lower 
fall, a path mounts steeply through the 
forest, and leads in 3 hrs. from the 
Baths to the highest chalet of the 
Rammer Alp. Another hour suffices 
to reach the top of the Kammerstock, 
which is the extreme E. summit of 
the range of the Olariden Alps (see 
next Rte.) It is a ridge v ith three 
summits, of which that overlooking 
the Linth Thai is the lowest. 

The view, of which a drawing was 
made by Mr. G. Studer that is pre¬ 
served in a frame at the Baths of 
Stachelberg, appears to be remarkably 
extensive for a point of such moderate 
height. It overlooks on the S. side 
a wild upland valley partly filled with 
huge blocks fallen from the mountains 
on either side. The upper end, be¬ 
longing to the Canton Uri, is the 
Fisiten Alp; the lower portion, partly 
divided from the Fisiten Alp by a 
fence that marks the division of the 
two cantons, is the Biirenboden Alp. 
The stream that traverses the Biireu- 
boden forms the fine fall of the 
Schreyenbach, admired by travellers 
ascending the Linth Thai above 
Stachelberg. The traveller may de¬ 
scend direct from the summit of the 
Kammerstock to the Biirenboden, and 
return to Stachelberg by a path 
through the forest above the Schreyen¬ 
bach. Another way is to follow the 


ridge of the mountain to the W. from 
the Kammerstock to a point marked 
by a cross which forms the Fisiten 
Fuss (6,728'), connecting the pastoral 
settlement of the Urnerboden (§ 26. 
Rte. I) with the Fisiten Alp. He may 
descend to the latter chMets, and 
thence to the Biirenboden, or else 
return by the easier but less interest¬ 
ing way of the Urnerboden. 

Sleeping at the ch&lets of Baren- 
boden, Prof. Ulrich returned on the 
following morning to the Fisiten Pass, 
and then keeping along the N. slopes 
overlooking the Urnerboden, ascended 
the Gemschfayrstock, partly by climb¬ 
ing steep rocks, partly by glacier. 
The ascent employed 5 hrs., and 8 
hrs. would be required from Stachel¬ 
berg. This peak gives one of the 
finest near views of the Todi, besides 
an extensive alpine panorama. The 
descent was effected on the S. side to 
the Claridenfirn (Rte. B), and then 
leaving the glacier near the foot of 
the Zutreibstock, and passing over a 
depression between the Altenorenstock 
and the Gemsistock, the party reached 
the Altenorenalp, and returned to 
Stachelberg by a path leading past the 
Schreyenbach. 

The charges for horses, guides, and 
porters are rather higher in the Linth 
Thai than in most parts of Switzer¬ 
land. The best guides for glacier 
expeditions are Heinrich Elmer of Elm 
in the Sernfthal; and his son, Rudolf. 
Joachim Zweifel of Linththal, Al¬ 
brecht Zweifel and Jacob Logler (same 
place) have less experience; Peter Hefri 
of Luchsingen has been also recom¬ 
mended. For the Gliirnisch, Andreas 
Vordermann and Abraham Steussi, 
both of Glarus. are well spoken of. It 
may be doubted whether any of these 
can rank with the good Oberland guides, 
and the reports of English travellers 
have not been very favourable. The 
rates formerly asked were extravagant, 
but the Swiss Alpine Club has used its 
influence to establish a reasonable tariff - . 
For the Todi, the Hausstock, or the 
Ciariden Pass to the Maderanerthal, 





1'J2 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND 

30 fr.—for the Bachistock, Vrenelis- 
giirth, Sand Pass, or Kisten Pass, 
25 fr.—easier expeditions in propor¬ 
tion, but 10 fr. a day for ordinary 
excursions is too high. A guide is 
not required to the Ober Sand Alp, 
but is indispensable for the glacier 
passes. 

The way from Stachelberg to the 
Ober Sand Alp, at the N. base of the 
Tbdi, lies throughout amidst very 
grand scenery, and is deservedly fre¬ 
quented by tourists. A new carriage- 
road is now open from the village of 
Linththal along the E. side of the 
Galley through green meadows en¬ 
closed between the wooded slopes of 
the mountains at either side. At the 
pretty hamlet of Auengiiter it passes 
opposite to the waterfall of the Fatsch- 
bach, which is not well seen from a 
distance, as it lies in a wooded ravine. 
Rather more than 1 hr. from Stachel¬ 
berg the traveller arrives opposite to 
the still finer fall of the Schreyen- 
bach. Seen under favourable circum¬ 
stances, this is a very striking object. 
It is well worth while to turn aside 
from the path and reach the bank of 
the Linth just opposite the waterfall, 
where the torrent, springing over the 
precipice, is seen ‘ coming down in 
a shower of water-rockets.’ Above 
the Schreyenbacli the valley of the 
Linth rapidly contracts, and the 
stream issues from a ravine between 
the bases of the opposing mountains; 
the path crosses to the 1. bank, and 
mounts the slope, keeping at some 
distance from the Linth. A comfort¬ 
able little Inn—Tbdi Wirthschaft— 
was opened in 1863 on the rt. bank, 
just where the new road comes to an 
end about 5 m. from Stachelberg. It 
offers convenient head-quarters to 
mountaineers, but the prices were at 
first of the most extortionate character. 
It is said that the remonstrances of 
'travellers have led to considerable 
reform in this respect. 

The ordinary turning point of ladies 
who follow this track from the Baths 
of Stachelberg is the Pantenb/iiche, 


§ 27. THE TODI DISTRICT. 

reached by a track on the 1. bank in 20 
min. from the inn. It is a stone bridge 
spanning the Linth at a vast height 
above the channel, cut by the stream 
through the rock. The ravine is not 
in itself so striking as that of the 
Via Mala, or some others in the Alps ; 
but the mountains that here rise above 
the spectator as he looks southward 
are far grander than those of the 
Rhaetian Bass. After passing the 
Panteubriicke, the path is carried along 
the steep slopes of the Ueli Alp, and 
before long reaches the opening of 
the Limmern tobel, a ravine far more 
striking than that traversed below. 
Here the Limmern issues from a dark 
cleft, some 2,000 ft. deep, cut through 
the rocks that once united the Selbsanft 
and the Vorsteckstock. Instead of 
looking down into the gulf, the tra¬ 
veller looks into it from the level of 
the stream. It is said that when this 
is frozen hard in winter, it is possible 
to traverse this extraordinary cleft, 
utterly inaccessible at other seasons. 
The track leading to the Sand Alp 
traverses the Limmern near the point 
where by its union wffth the Sandbach 
(descending from the Tbdi) it forms 
the Linth. Few scenes in the Alps 
are grander than the defile through 
which the traveller now passes. On 
the W. side rise the rocks of the 
Alturenstock and the Zutreibstock. The 
steep declivity at their base is here 
covered with pine-forest, but farther on 
they show bare slopes of debris, where 
the track is often carried away. On the 
opposite side the tremendous precipices 
of the Sclbsanft(9, 921') stretch upwards 
with scarcely a break, more than a 
mile in vertical height above the tra¬ 
veller’s head. The path returns to the 
1. bank just at a point where a torrent 
called Walenbach, fed by a small glacier 
at the base of the Gemschfayrstock, 
descends from the Ahenorenalp to join 
tiie Sandbach. After following the 
track for some distance along slopes of 
debris, the traveller once more crosses 
to the rt. bank opposite to the chhlets 
oi the Uuicr Sand Alp, also known as 








ROUTE A. — ODER SAND ALP. 


193 


Unterstaffel. These are reached in 3 
hrs. from Stachelberg. They stand 
4,101 ft. above the sea, at the very 
head of the Linth valley, and at the 
N. foot of the Todi. Ti'avellers have 
sometimes found shelter here for the 
night, but have not reported favour¬ 
ably of the treatment received. This is 
not, however, a favourable point for a 
view ofthe great mountain,asavastpro- 
montorv, whose summit is the Ochsen- 
stock, closes the head of the valley, 
and partly conceals the higher peaks 
from the spectator. A little above 
the chalets is the confluence of the 
three glacier streams that form the 
Sandbach, which lower down receives 
the better-known name of Linth. The 
Bifertenbach and JRothebach, issuing 
from the Biferten and Rothe Glaciers, 
flow from the E. side of Ochsenstock; 
while the Oberstaffelbach, fed by the 
Sand Glacier and other minor ice- 
streams, descends from the S\V. in an 
extremely fine waterfall. To see the 
waterfall to the best advantage, it would 
be better to keep along the 1. bank of 
the Sandbach instead of crossing to 
the Lower Sand Alp; but it might be 
somewhat difficult to climb the steep 
slopes N. of the fall in order to reach 
the Ober Sand Alp. The path from 
the Lower Sand Alp crosses the Bifer¬ 
tenbach, and mounts the rather steep 
slope of the Ochsenblanke on the 8. 
side of the waterfall, crossing the 
stream by a wooden bridge as soon as 
the level of the upper pastures has 
been gained. Here the scene is com¬ 
pletely changed. An undulating plain 
covered with rich pasture is enclosed 
between rocky slopes that are sur¬ 
mounted by glaciers and snow-fields. 
In a few minutes the lower valley is 
completely lost to view; the peaks of 
the Todi rise steeply on the 1. more 
than 5,000 ft. above the plain, while 
on the other side extends the range of 
the Claridengrat. Vast masses of 
glacier w hose shattered outline is seen 
against the sky cover the ridge, and 
small ice-streams descend at intervals 
towards the upland valley. The head 
PART II. 


of the valley turns towards the S., and 
the space between the Todi and the 
Claridengrat is filled by the Sand 
Glacier, descending from the ridge that 
forms the watershed between the Can¬ 
tons Glarus and Grisons. The green 
oasis in the midst of this stern wilder¬ 
ness is the Ober Sand Alp ; and the 
tw T o chalets or sennhutten, 6,358 ft. 
above the sea, occupied by herdsmen 
during the summer, are locally known 
as the Oberstaffel, and may be reached 
in 4^ hrs.’ steady walking from Stachel¬ 
berg. Travellers have frequently re¬ 
sorted to these chalets for night quar¬ 
ters when about to attempt the ascent 
of the Todi, or other glacier expedi¬ 
tions ; and the herdsmen, who have not 
shown themselves either obliging or 
courteous, seem to have concluded that 
the liberal payment that they have 
sometimes received entitles them to 
exact an equal sum from ail future 
comers. Contrary to what usually 
occurs in such places in the Alps, 
they have frequently attempted to 
enforce quite unreasonable demands. 

Although nearly all the ascents 
of the Todi (except the earliest) were 
made from the Ober Staffel, there is no 
longer any necessity for resorting 
hither for night quarters. The Swiss 
Alpine Club has conferred a great 
benefit on travellers by constructing a 
hut on the Griinhorn, a promontory 
from the E. base of the Todi, 3 hrs. 
higher up than the Ober Sand Alp. 
Nor is there any occasion for those who 
pass the Sand Grat (Rte. F) to sleep at 
these chalets. The only expedition for 
which their shelter, such as it is, is 
really advantageous, is the passage of 
!the Claridengrat (Rte. B), when made 
from this side. The Swiss Alpine 
Club hut (7,814', F.VV.J.) may be ap¬ 
proached directly from the Lower Sand 
Alp; but those who intend to make the 
ascent of the Todi, and have time to 
spare on the preceding day, will do 
well to make the detour of about 1^ 
hr. by the Oberstaffel, and so enjoy 
the striking scenery of this side of the 
mountain before taking up their quar- 







104 ALPS OF NORTH SAVITZERLAND. 

ters for the night. Though built on a 
projecting rock the hut is not easily 
found. It contains an iron stove, but 
the traveller will do well to carry fire¬ 
wood from the Lower Sand Alp, as 
well as extra covering. In 1865 a 
party without a local guide missed the 
hut, and were forced to bivouac. 

It is an easy and pleasant detour 
from the ordinary path to mount from 
the Unter Sand Alp along the 1. bank 
of the Bifertenbach to the Biferten 
Glacier, which both for the beauty of 
its ice-fall, and the grandeur of the 
precipices that overhang it to the E. 
and S., may bear comparison with the 
most famous in the Alps. The travel¬ 
ler may then ascend the Ochsenstock, 
and descend to the Ober Sand Alp by 
the slopes of the Rothe in about 4^ 
hrs. from the Lower Sand Alp. 

Mr. A. W. Moore recommends a 
course from Stachelberg to the Ober 
Sand Alp well suited to tolerably ac¬ 
tive mountaineers. Mounting by the 
path that crosses the Fisitenbach above 
the Schreyenbach waterfall, the highest 
huts (Ober Staffel^ of the Altenoren 
Alp are reached in 3^ hrs. Thence it 
is 1 hr. 10 min. to the foot of the Cla- 
riden Firn (7,307') and after mounting 
for ^ hr. by moraine and debris on the 
1. bank, the glacier is crossed in 40 min. 
to the opening between the Zutreib- 
stock and Geissbiitzistock, whence the 
Ober Sand Alp is reached in 40 min. 
more, or in all 6^ hrs. from Stachel¬ 
berg. View of the Todi magnificent. 

Ascent of the Todi. It may be well 
to premise that the Todi is a decidedly 
difficult mountain, as is proved by the 
fact that a large proportion of the 
attempts to reach the top have been 
unsuccessful. By the route commonly 
followed, some positive risk from ava¬ 
lanches is necessarily incurred, and in 
some seasons the vast crevasses towards 
the upper part of the ascent may make 
success impossible. In the early sum¬ 
mer the crevasses are more easily 
crossed, but the risk from avalanches 
is then greater. It must be observed 
that all the more serious difficulties are 


§ 27. THE TODI DISTRICT. 

avoided when the ascent is made from 
the S. side, and, except after fresh 
snow, that course seems to be quite 
free from danger when ordinary pre¬ 
cautions are observed. 

The Todi is a vast mountain mass 
projecting as a promontory to the N. 
from the range that divides the basin 
of the Linth from that of the Rhine. 
There are three principal peaks. The 
lowest, and northernmost, which is 
that seen from the Ober Sand Alp, is 
called Sandgipfel (11,214'). That lo¬ 
cally known as Glarner Todi , long 
supposed to be the highest, and most 
conspicuous from Stachelberg and other 
points of view to the N., is now known 
to be the second in height. The 
highest summit lies SVV. of the Todi- 
gipfel, and is distinguished by the 
Grisons name Piz Russein. This is 
the summit seen from Zurich and 
other stations to the W. The second 
summit measures 11,732 ft. above the 
sea, while the measurement given 
in the Federal map—3,623 metres = 
11,886 ft.—is meant to apply to the 
Piz Russein. It must be borne in 
mind that the latter name is er¬ 
roneously applied on that map to the 
Stockgron, a much lower summit lying 
considerably farther S. A detached 
peak standing W. of the main mass is 
the Klein Todi. The central mass of 
the mountain is enclosed between two 
glaciers, of which the most consider¬ 
able is the Biferten Glacier. This 
originates in a vast snow-basin SE. of 
the Todi, bounded to the S. by the 
peaks of the Stockgron, Piz Urlaun, 
Frisalstock, and Bifertenstock, forming 
the boundary of the two cantons. The 
last-named peak is connected with the 
Selbsanft by a massive wall of pre¬ 
cipitous rocks enclosing the glacier on 
the E. side, and forcing it, after de¬ 
scending at first nearly due E., to bend 
round first to NE., and then due N. 
On the opposite side a ridge of rocks 
called Bifertengratli, descending NE. 
from the Todi, forms the boundary of 
the Biferten Glacier. The end of this 
nearest the Todi is the Griinhorn, 



ROUTE A.—ASCENT OF THE T(5d1. 


195 


whereon stands the Swiss Club hut. 
The scenery of the Biferten Glacier is 
of the highest order, but owing to its 
steepness it is difficult of access. It in¬ 
cludes three great ice falls, with inter¬ 
mediate steps, called by Prof. Ulrich 
plateaux, yet very far from level, and 
much crevassed. The lower part of 
the glacier, including the so-called first 
plateau, is so much torn by crevasses 
as to be practically impassable, though 
perhaps it may be found less difficult 
in the early summer. The second pla¬ 
teau is comparatively easy to traverse, 
as is the upper plateau of neve, but 
they arc divided by a quite imprac¬ 
ticable ice-fall. 

On the W. side of the Todi lies the 
Scuid Glacier or Sandfirn, which de¬ 
scends towards the Sand Alp from the 
dividing ridge forming the pass to 
Dissentis (Rte. F). This does not ex¬ 
tend so far S. as the head of the Bifer¬ 
ten Glacier. The ridge running due N. 
from the Stockgron to the Piz Russein 
overlooks the head of the Val Russein 
on the Grisons side of the chain, but 
it appears that the main mass of the 
Todi lies altogether on the N. side of 
the watershed. 

Professor Ulrich has given, in the 
first series of ‘ Berg-und Gletscher- 
Fahrten,’ a detailed history of the suc¬ 
cessive attempts to reach the summit 
of the Todi, including that made in 
1853 by himself with MM. Studer and 
Siegfried, with Thomas Thut, Gabriel 
Vogeli, and Johann Madutz as guides, 
when the second peak (Gliirner Tbdi^) 
was attained for the first time from the 
Sand Alp side. Further information is 
given in the second series of the same 
work, and in the first Jahrbuch of the 
Swiss Alpine Club. Since that volume 
appeared, Dr. Picard has effected the 
very steep descent from the summit of 
the Todi to the Sandgrat. When 
better known, this may become a fa¬ 
vourite route. The following brief 
notes may, however, suffice for a party 
accompanied by good guides. 

The two highest summits of the Todi 
are connected by a gently sloping snow- 


ridge, lying about ENE. and WSW. 
■whence the Gliirner Todi is reached 
with ease, and the Piz Russein without 
serious difficulty, by following a rather 
sharp snow arete. This ridge is best 
accessible from the SSE. side by the 
head of the Biferten Glacier. It was 
attained for the first time in 1824 
by two chamois-hunters, who crossed 
the ridge N. of the Stockgron, at the 
point now known as the Porta da 
Spescha, further mentioned below. 

After crossing the Oberstaffelbach 
opposite the chalets, the ascent is com¬ 
menced by mounting to the S. the 
slopes of the llothe, as the northern 
buttress of the Todi, whose highest 
summit is the Ochsenstock, is locally 
called. The summit of the ridge may 
be reached in 2| hrs. from the chalets. 
This overlooks the lower and impas¬ 
sable portion of the Biferten Glacier. 
To attain the so-called second plateau 
of that glacier, it is necessary to cross 
the deep hollow separating the Ochsen¬ 
stock from the Bifertengriitli, at the 
head of which lies the Hinter Rbtbe 
Glacier. A rapid descent over debris 
and snow-slopes, passing below the end 
to the last-named glacier, leads in 1^- hr. 
to the moraine of the Biferten Gl. 
A steep climb of 1 hr. over loose stones, 
ice and snow, leads past the hut, which 
will serve as the starting-point in 
future ascents, to the ridge of the 
Griinhorn, rather more than 8,000 ft. 
above the sea. This immediately 
overlooks the more easily traversed 
part of the Biferten Glacier, but the 
passage from the rocks to the ice is 
sometimes rather troublesome. Some 
travellers have found snow-bridges, 
others have had to cut steps up a wall 
of ice 40 or 50 feet in height. On at¬ 
taining the comparatively level and 
less crevassed part of the glacier, the 
main difficulty of the ascent becomes 
apparent. The upper plateau of neve, 
by which alone the final ridge of the 
mountain can be attained, is separated 
from the second plateau by an ice-fall 
which has been pronounced utterly 
impassable by all who have approached 
0 2 





19G ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. 


§ 27. THE TODI DISTRICT. 


it. There is some reason to think ] 
that the obstacle might be surmounted 
by a snow couloir on the rt. bank of 
the ice-fall under the rocks of the 
Bifertenstock. As the glacier at this 
point is easily passable, it may turn 
out that this, though involving a con¬ 
siderable detour, is the most advisable 
course, but it has not as yet been at¬ 
tempted. The way hitherto followed 
lies through a remarkable ravine or 
hollow, called Sc/tneerose, the base of 
which is reached in about 1^ hr. from 
the Grunhorn hut. The name, which 
is a corruption of Schneerunse, and 
has much the same meaning as the 
term couloir, used by English moun¬ 
taineers for want of a vernacular ex¬ 
pression, has misled many writers, 
who suppose it derived from the red 
colour of the snow occasionally caused 
by the growth of minute organic 
germs. The Schneerose is a chan¬ 
nel enclosed between precipices of 
rock, of which that on the W. side is 
estimated by Prof. Ulrich at 2,000 ft. 
in height, and serves as the habitual 
track for avalanches descending from 
the upper peak of the mountain. The 
same explorer is satisfied that there is 
little or no danger from this cause 
until about 3 p.m., when the sun begins 
to tell upon the overhanging masses of 
snow and ice. But the state of the 
weather and other variable conditions 
have as much influence on the loosening 
of avalanches as the direct rays of the 
sun; and in two subsequent ascents 
avalanches fell early in the morning, 
the travellers escaping only by a few 
minutes from being caught in their 
track. Hegetschweiler, who made four 
unsuccessful attempts at the ascent, 
was with his companions actually 
struck by an avalanche on one occasion; 
but being of small dimensions, and 
formed of fine snow, it did no serious 
mischief. The point where alone it 
seems possible to clamber up the rocks 
to the 1. is known to the guides by a 
streamlet, fed by the glacier above, 
that trickles down the precipice. When 
the wall has been climbed, it is usually 


] a matter of some difficulty to gain the 
level of the upper plateau. The Bifer¬ 
tenstock, Frisalstock (or Bundner 
Tbdi), Piz Urlaun, and Stockgron are 
all in view, the first alone rising much 
above the level of the spectator, but 
the peaks of the Tbdi are concealed 
by the rocks on his rt. The neve 
mounts pretty steeply, and is cut 
through by crevasses of great breadth, 
amidst which it is not difficult to 
continue the ascent, at first h little 
S. of W., but gradually bearing to the 
rt. as the traveller reaches the S. side 
of the final ridge. 

The steep final slope is usually 
barred by a number of wide crevasses. 
On one occasion the late G. Hoff¬ 
mann was forced to return by the 
impossibility of traversing a crevasse 
which he estimated at 60 ft. in width. 
Others have been more fortunate, but 
have not reached the ridge without 
some difficulty and considerable delay. 
Let future travellers look well to their 
rope, and take a sufficient supply. The 
summit level may perhaps more pro¬ 
perly be called a plateau than a ridge, 
as it subsides with a gentle slope to 
the Sand Gipfel, which forms with the 
two higher summits a triangle mea¬ 
suring about ^ m. on each side. The 
Gliirner Tbdi, overlooking the entire 
Linththal, is reached in a few minutes' 1 
easy climb from the ridge. The Piz 
Hussein is less easy of access, being 
connected with the saddle by a sharp 
snow arete, and a Ioav but steep wall of 
ice just below the top. This was first 
attained in 1861 by MM. Simler and 
Sand, with II. Elmer of Matt and Ga¬ 
briel Zweifel of Linththal as guides. 

The highest plateau of the Biferten 
Glacier is bounded on the W. side by 
the ridge in which the Piz Russein, 
Bleisasverdas (11,234'), Piz Mellen 
(11,0S6'), and Stockgron (11,211'), fel¬ 
low each other from N. to S. In one 
of the expeditions of Placidus a 
Spescha (see Rte. C), his guides 
reached the opening between the 
Stockgron and Piz Mellen from the 
head of Val Russein, and thence at- 






197 


KOUTE B. — CLARIDEN ALPS. 


tained for the first time the summit of 
the Todi. Many years before, in 1788, 
P. a Spescha appears to have attained 
the edge of the same plateau from the 
S. side, when, in ascending the Stock- 
gron, he reached the col dividing that 
peak from the nameless summit E. of 
it marked in the Federal Map 3,330 m. 
= 10,925 ft. As the summit of the 
Todi must be reached from the plateau, 
it is evident that both these openings, 
or cols, afford a practicable line of as¬ 
cent. The first, now called Porta da 
Spescha, is about 10,850 ft. in height; 
and the second— Porta da GItems — 
may be 50 or 100 ft. lower. The first 
recent ascent by the Porta da Spescha 
was effected in 1863 by a party of the 
Swiss Alpine Club, headed by Dr. 
Simler, with H. Elmer and his son as 
guides. In spite of several halts the 
col was reached in 5^ hrs. from the 
Russein Alp (Rte. F), and the summit 
of Piz Russein in l| hrs more, taking 
on the way the summit of Piz Melien. 
In June 1865, Messrs. Moore and 
Walker, with Jacob Anderegg, after 
ascending the Todi by the usual route, 
crossed the plateau to the Porta da 
Gliems, descended to the head of the 
Gliems Glacier by a short ice-slope, and 
in 25 min. from the col passed through 
a tempting gap on the rt., whence they 
went down to the Russein Alp in 3 hrs. 
from the top of Piz Russein. 

On the S. side the mass of the Todi 
is mainly composed of gneiss, which, 
according to Escher von der Linth, 
overlies a dioritic granite with large 
felspar crystals. The summit and the 
N. flanks are mainly composed of me- 
tamorphic slate, in which talc pre¬ 
dominates, but is sometimes replaced 
by felspar, so that the rock sometimes 
approaches the condition of gneiss and 
sometimes that of mica slate. There 
are manifest traces of anthracite, espe¬ 
cially at the Bifertengratli, where the 
rock in some places assumes the ap¬ 
pearance of a quartzite mixed with 
fragments of talc, which has elsewhere 
in this region been referred to the ver- 
rucano. To these strata succeed dolo¬ 


mite and Jurassic limestone, similar in 
character to those developed on a large 
scale in the Canton Glaurus. 

Among other rarities the botanist 
may find Malaxis monopliyllos in the 
neighbourhood of the Pantenbriicke, 
and Rumex nivalis in the Alpine region 
about 7,000 ft. above the sea. 

For the ascent of the Selbsanft an 
Bifertenstock, see Rte. G. 

Route B. 

STACHELBERG TO A3ISTEG BY THE 
CLARIDEN GRAT. 

15 to 18 hrs. exclusive of halts. 

This is an extremely interesting ex¬ 
pedition, fit only for practised moun¬ 
taineers who can count upon their 
strength and endurance, as the passage 
of the Htifi Glacier and the Clariden 
firn is long, and may be very fatiguing 
when the snow is soft and deep. 

Before giving an account of the pass, 
it is necessary to premise some obser¬ 
vations on the topography of the Clari¬ 
den Alps, comprising in that term the 
entire range described below. This 
has been rendered obscure by the dis¬ 
cordance of maps, and by the variety 
of names that are applied to the various 
summits by the herdsmen and hunters 
of the adjoining valleys. 

The Clariden Alps form a continuous 
range extending from WSW. to ENE. 
exactly parallel to the Todi Chain, 
between the neighbourhood of Amsteg, 
in the Canton Uri, and the head of the 
valley of the Linth. The W. end of 
this range is separated from the Crisp- 
alt and the Oberalpstock by the Ma- 
deranerthal, while the E. extremity is 
cut off from the Todi by the valley 
of the Oberstaflfelbach, or Ober Sand 
Alp. The two ranges are, however, 
linked together by a lofty and broad 
transverse ridge extending from N. to 
S. between the Claridenstock and the 
Catscharauls. This ridge, known as 
the Clariden Grat, is covered, save 
here and there where some rocky point 
protrudes through its surface, with a 




198 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND 

massive coating of glacier called Clari- 
den firn. 

The following are the chief summits 
of the Clariden Alps, reckoning from 
W. to E., and premising that the 
names of the first four, as used in the 
Schachenthal and adopted on the Swiss 
Federal Map, are different from those 
used in the Maderaner Thai, which are 
given in brackets. 

1. Kleine Windgelle (9,847')) or See- 
welistock— (Mad. Th., Grosse Wind- 
gelle). The Maderaner people give 
the name Kleine 'Windgelle to a de¬ 
tached peak W. of the summit, and 
unnamed on the map, called Fenster- 
stock by Hoffmann. 

2. Grosse Windgelle (10,463') — 
(Mad. Th., Kalkstock). The ascent of 
this and that of the Kleine Windgelle 
are noticed in § 30, Rte. B, among 
excursions from Amsteg. 

3. Gross JRuchi (10,295') — Mad. 
Th., Alpgnoferstock). This is sepa¬ 
rated by a hunter’s pass called Kriikeli 
from 

4. Klein Buchi (9,637'), or Zingel- 
stock—(Mad. Th., Kalkschye). 

5. Scheerliom (11,142'), a double- 
pointed peak, the highest of this range, 
and known by the same name on both 
sides. 

6. Kammlistock (10,609'). 

7. Claridenstock (10,709'). 

8. Idocktschingel (10,086'). 

9. Gemsckfayrstock ( 9,733'). Asmen- 
tioned in the last Rte., a ridge little 
exceeding 7.000 ft. in height extends 
ENE. from this peak to the Kammer- 
stock, near Stachelberg. 

The summit of the ridge connecting 
the Claridenstock with the Catscharauls 
(10,049), a peak in the main chain 
of the Todi, W. of the Sand Pass 
(Rte. F), is a vast irregular plateau 
from 9,000 to 9.700 ft. in height, many 
square miles in extent, and sustaining 
the great accumulation of snow and ice 
called Clariden firn. This plateau sinks 
gradually to the W. until it forms a 
defined ice-stream, and assumes the 
name Hiifi Glacier. Between the 
Scheerhorn and theDussistock (10,701') 


§ 27. THE TODI DISTRICT. 

this glacier forms a magnificent ice- 
fall, and then stretches with a gentle 
slope into the head of the Maderaner 
Thai. It may here be mentioned that 
the Dussistock, the highest peak on the 
S. side of the glacier, is sometimes called 
Hiifistock, but that name properly 
belongs to one of its secondary peaks. 
The name Maderanerthal, again, is 
little used by the people of that valley. 
The lower part is on the spot commonly 
called Kdrstelenthal, while the head of 
the valley is known as Ruppleten. 

The range of the Clariden Grat pre¬ 
sents no summits that stand much 
above the general level. The peaks 
that appear to project boldly when 
viewed from the Ober Sand Alp are 
merely promontories of gneiss rising 
very little, or not at all, above the 
fields of neve that lie behind them. 
Viewed from the above-mentioned 
station, the most prominent points 
seen in succession from SW. to NE. 
are the Hinter Spitzalpeli (9,842), Vor* 
der Spitzalpeli (9,596'), Geissbiitz istock, 
and Zutreibstock (8,688'). 

At the S. end, between the Catscha¬ 
rauls and Hinter Spitzalpeli, the Cla¬ 
riden firn unites with the Sand firn, 
where the latter closes the head of the 
valley of the Oberstaffelbach. N. of 
the Hinter Spitzalpeli, and between it 
and the Claridenstock, is the snow- 
shed between the neve feeding the Hufi 
Glacier, and that which is drained into 
the valley of the Linth. On the E. 
side of the snow-shed, the Clariden 
firn stretches for several miles along 
the flanks of the Bocktschingel and 
Gemschfayrstock, sending down short 
tongues of glacier towards the Ober 
Sand Alp, and a rather more consider¬ 
able ice-stream to ENE., on the N. 
side of the Gemsistock, whence issues 
the Walenbach that waters the Alteno- 
renalp. In a deep hollow on the N. 
side of the Clariden Stock lies the Cla¬ 
riden Gletscher. The upper plateau is 
connected with this by a snow col on 
the E. side of the peak, but it is doubt¬ 
ful whether a passage can be effected 
at that point. Farther W. is the Gries 





ROUTE B.-MADERANER THAL. 


199 


Gletscher , lying N. of the Scheerhorn | 
and Kammlistock. Between them is 
the Scheer Joch (9,269'), also called 
Scheerliicke, affording access to the 
upper plateau of the Clariden firn from 
Unter Schiichen or the Klausen Pass. 
From thence the Kammlistock (10,609'), 
was climbed, in 1864, by M. Hauser. 
It seems certain that the Scheerhorn 
(11,142'), is more easily reached from 
this side than from the S., by which it 
was first attained, in 1842, by the late 
G. Hoffmann, and again, in 1863, by 
Herr Finiger. 

The Claridenstock (10,709'), is ac¬ 
cessible by the steep rocks of its SW. 
face. See the account of the first ascent 
by Professor Rambert, in 1863, in the 
Swiss Club Jahrbuch. 

The first published account of the pass 
to Amsteg is that by Prof. Ulrich in the 
second series of ‘ Berg-und Gletscher- 
Fahrten.’ Ip the year 1863 it was 
effected by Mr. Moore and friends (see 
below); and a few weeks later by an¬ 
other English party going in the oppo¬ 
site direction, with two Stachelberg 
guides named Albrecht Steussi and 
Johann Zweifel. Taking the more 
southern course, recommended below, 
the second party were involved in seri¬ 
ous difficulties, owing to the incapacity 
of their guides, and were rescued by 
some chamois hunters who descried 
their position. Amsteg was reached 
in 15£ hrs. from the Ober Sand Alp. 

The pass may best be taken from the 
W. side, starting from the new inn (zum 
Schweizer Alpenklub) at Waldibalm, 
1 hr. below the Hiifi Glacier. The scen¬ 
ery going that way is more striking, and 
the Maderanerthal men better guides. 
If approached from the Glarus side it is 
necessary to sleep at the Ober Sand Alp. 
The following account is from the pen of 
Mr. Moore, who was accompanied by 
Messrs. Morshead and Short,with Chris¬ 
tian Aimer, Peter Perm, and Moritz 
Andermatten, all first-rate guides, be¬ 
sides Jos. Maria Trosch,who demanded 
30 fr. and a bonnemain for the expe¬ 
dition—rather too high a charge. 

‘ The distance from Amsteg to the 


Baths of Stachelberg is very great. 
It took us 13^ hours’ actual walking 
to reach the Lower Sand Alp from 
Amsteg: 9^ hours to the Grat, and 
4;j hours’ descent. A better plan for 
any one starting from Amsteg would 
be to pass the first night in the chalets 
of Waldibalm, and so get over a large 
portion of the glacier before the sun 
had softened the snow, and probably 
reach Stachelberg before dark, thus 
avoiding the Sand Alp chalets, which 
are most filthy, and tenanted by a set 
of extortioners who consider stray 
travellers fair game. The actual diffi¬ 
culties of the route are not great, but, 
owing to the immense extent of snow- 
fields to be traversed, there are few 
passes more laborious, and for the 
same reason it should be attempted 
only in the clearest weather. In a fog, 
a party might wander for hours over 
the plains of snow on either side of the 
Grat, and be unable to hit off the cor¬ 
rect line of march. The scenery, 
especially on the side of the Linth 
Thai, is of the grandest character, 
while the Maderaner Thai is one of 
the most chaiming valleys of the Alps.’ 

‘ The Maderaner Thai opens out 
immediately behind Amsteg. The 
entrance is very narrow, and the 
ascent for the first 20 min. exceed¬ 
ingly steep ; but, at the end of that 
time, the path runs along the 1. bank 
of the stream, over gently-undulating 
ground, rising very gradually. The 
vegetation is unusually luxuriant, and 
the general scenery very picturesque, 
the ranges rt. and 1., though not of 
the first order, being sufficiently ele¬ 
vated to be striking and attractive 
objects. The rocks on the N. side 
are very precipitous, and are said to 
be the favourite resort of chamois. 
The population are a fine-looking set, 
especially the women, who wear a very 
becoming head-dress, in which a red 
handkerchief is a prominent feature. 
Up the first lateral valley on the S., 
a path leads over the Kreuzli Pass to 
Dissentis in the Voider Rhein Thai.’ 

The path crosses to the rt. bank of 





200 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 27, THE TODI DISTRICT. 


the Karstelenbach above the village of 
Bristen, returns to the 1. bank about 
1 hr. farther on, and after passing the 
chalets of Stossi reaches in 3 hrs. from 
Amsteg a bridge which leads to the 
comfortable new inn at Waldibalm. If 
it is not desired to make a halt at the inn, 
the path on the 1. bank must still be 
followed, and very shortly the foot of 
the great Hitfi Glacier appears in sight. 

‘ In 50 min. rapid ascent from Waldi¬ 
balm, the lower end of the glacier is 
reached, after passing beneath a series 
of line waterfalls, derived from the 
Brunni Glacier (over which lies a pass 
to Dissentis), tumbling over the pre¬ 
cipitous rocks on the S. side of the 
valley. The Hiifi Glacier, although 
that portion of it which alone is visible 
from the valley is not very attractive, 
is one of the grandest in the Alps. It 
takes its origin in an enormous field 
of neve, which is also the common 
source of the Clariden firn and Sand 
firn, at the head of the Linth Thai. 
After running for some distance in a 
westerly direction, it is compelled to 
take a sharp turn to the SW., in order 
to round a long spur of the Diissi- 
stock on the 1. bank. At the same 
point it is compressed into a compara¬ 
tively narrow space by a similar spur 
coming down from the Scheerhorn on 
the rt. bank In the contracted chan¬ 
nel between the opposing rocks, it 
forms a superb ice-fall, comparable to 
any in the better-known portion of the 
Alps. The existence of this fall would 
not be suspected from the point where 
the glacier is first reached : the appa¬ 
rent absence of any difficulty ahead 
is so complete, that the traveller is 
tempted to get on to the ice at once, 
and push straight up its centre. We 
should certainly have done so, but for 
Trosch’s energetic opposition. He was 
undoubtedly right; for although it 
would be tolerably plain sailing as far 
as the foot of the ice-fall, that obstacle 
would be found quite impassable, at 
any rate without a great expenditure 
of time. A faint track must be fol¬ 
lowed, rising very steeply at fii'st, along 


1 the lower slopes of the Diissistock, 
high up above the 1. bank of the gla¬ 
cier. This track is rough and narrow, 
and in the dark would be difficult to 
* traverse, but by daylight presents no 
difficulty, merely requiring the exer¬ 
cise of ordinary caution. After cross¬ 
ing a desolate waste of stones, appa¬ 
rently fallen from the side of the Diis- 
sistock, where it is advisable to take 
advantage of the last water which will 
be found for many hours, the last hut 
is reached in l^-hr., a wretched den, 
in a half-ruined state, where shelter 
would be sought only in the last extre¬ 
mity. Here all path ceases, and a 
rough scramble ensues for 20 min. up 
the shoulder of the Diissistock imme¬ 
diately behind the hut. On cresting 
the ridge, the traveller finds himself 
on a level with the glacier, at a point 
above the great ice-fall, which has thus 
been turned with ease. Here, 5|- hrs. 
from Amsteg, he may take to the ice. 
The rope should be at once put on. 
For an hour it is necessary to thread a 
perfect labyrinth of crevasses, the gla¬ 
cier, though nearly level, being fear- 
fullv dislocated. The direction which 
it is best to follow must, of course, 
vary with the circumstances of the sea¬ 
son. We found it best to hug the 1. 
bank, but were exposed to some risk 
from the small hanging glaciers on the 
side of the Diissistock, fallen ice-blocks 
from which were lying in all direc¬ 
tions. This is, indeed, the most criti¬ 
cal part of the whole route. The 
crevasses are exceedingly intricate, 
mostly covered with snow, and ar¬ 
ranged apparently according to no 
particular order or system. In a fog, 
and with guides not well acquainted 
with the locality, a party might be 
involved in considerable danger and 
difficulty, and find the task of extrica¬ 
tion no light one. On emerging from 
this treacherous bit of glacier, the 
traveller stands at the edge of a vast 
field of neve, bounded rt. and 1. by 
rocky ridges of very trifling elevation, 
and stretching away in front, in a suc¬ 
cession of gentle snow-slopes, to the 



ROUTE B.-CLARIDEN GRAT. 


201 


Grat between the Claridenstock and j 
Catscharauls. The length of time ne- j 
cessary to traverse this depends largely 
upon the state of the snow. Early in 
the season, and rather late in the day, 
it took us 2^ hrs. of most laborious 
walking to reach the northern end of 
the Grat, under the Claridenstock, at 
which point all former passages have 
also been made. The apparent dis¬ 
tance is not great, but the slopes are 
even more than usually deceptive. 
The height of the pass we estimated 
at about 9,800 feet (9,842?), but had 
no means of determining it with accu¬ 
racy.’ 

‘ The distant view is net very exten¬ 
sive, comprising to the S. the peaks 
above the Medels Glacier, and the 
Adula group, and to the N. the who«e 
length of the Linth Thai. But this 
deficiency is more than compensated 
for by the view of the majestic Todi, 
which is seen in close proximity, rising 
from a bed of broken glacier, a mighty 
fortress of rock, so precipitous that, 
except here and there, no snow can 
lie on its nigged buttresses. This 
mountain, in its isolation and boldness 
of form, is worthy to be compared to 
the Matterhorn, to which indeed, as 
seen from Breuil, it bears considerable 
resemblance. The ranges of the 
Selbsanft and Bifertenstoclc on the 
opposite side of the Linth Thai are 
also very fine, presenting superb faces 
of rock, and altogether the whole 
scene may rival any other of the same 
character in the High Alps. The 
descent towards the Linth Thai has 
hitherto been effected by the Clariden 
firn, which, after flowing in a NE. 
direction, comes to an end near the 
Altenoren Alp, above the Panten- 
briicke. It does not appear possible to 
gain this Alp directly from the 
glacier, the foot of which is hemmed 
in by the cliffs of the Gemschfayr- 
stock and Altenorenstock. By quit¬ 
ting the glacier near the Zutreibstock 
on its rt. bank, and climbing a ridge 
between the Altenorenstock and the 
Gemsistock, it is possible to get down 


into the gorge of the Walenbaeh, and, 
crossing the torrent, reach the Alp, 
whence a path leads to Stachelberg. 
But this way is both difficult and 
circuitous ; that adopted by us, fol¬ 
lowing the steps of our predecessors, 
is in all respects preferable. We kept 
on the upper slopes of the glacier, 
with the Claridenstock close upon 
our 1. for some time ; then, beginning 
to descend, traversed a series of steep 
snow-slopes, until we had passed the 
Spitzalpeli, a rocky peak, or rather 
ridge, rising on the rt. bank to the 
height of only a few feet above the 
snow. Between this peak and that 
called on the Federal Map Geissbutzi- 
stock, the Clariden firn sends down 
a small branch in a south-easterly di¬ 
rection, towards the Upper Sand Alp. 
Crossing the bead of this tributary to 
its 1. bank, we quitted the ice in about 
3 hrs. from the Grat, having been 
somewhat detained by a fog, and de¬ 
scended to the upper chalets by the 
steep rock and grass slopes at the side 
of and below the glacier, without en¬ 
countering the slightest difficulty. We 
went on in the dark to the Lower Sand 
Alp, which was reached in hr. 
from the time we got off the ice. 
Thence to Stachelberg next morning 
3 hrs. During the latter part of the 
descent, we had a perfect view of the 
Sand firn, and discovered, what we 
had before suspected, that by making 
for the S. end of the Grat under 
the Catscharauls, and descending to 
the Sand Alp by the Sand firn, much 
time would be saved on both sides. 
[A.W.M.] The last suggestion has 
been adopted with much advantage by 
several recent travellers. By that 
way Messrs. Girdlestone and Trueman 
reached the hut by the Hufi Glacier from 
the Todi Wirthschaft above Stachelberg 
in 85- hrs.’ actual walking. 

The course described by Professor 
Ulrich differed from that followed by 
Mr. Moore and his companions. Fie 
crossed the Hufi Glacier immediately 
below the ice-fall, and continued the 
ascent on the rt. bank of the glacier by 







202 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 27. THE TODI DISTRICT. 


very steep rocks forming a S. buttress 
of the Scheerhorn. This involves a 
laborious and difficult climb, but has 
the advantage of avoiding the risk of 
ice-avalanches from the Diissistock. 
Those who take the course above sug¬ 
gested, of crossing the Clariden Grat 
at the point where it joins the Sand 
firn, must necessarily keep to the left 
bank of the Hufi Glacier. [In 1867 
Mr. Sowerby ascended the Diissistock, 
and returned to the inn at Waldibalm 
in 10 hrs. He describes the view as 
first-rate.] 

Route C. 

BASLE TODISSENTIS, BY SCHAFFHAUSEN 
AND COIRE. 



Swiss 

post leagues 

Eng. 

miles 

Waldshut (by railway) 


11* 

7# 

34 * 

Schaffhausen 


22i 

Winterthur 


6f 

20 

Wallisellen 


3f 

Hi 

Wesen 


13* 

40A 

Sargans . 


6f 

20 

Coire . 


6| 

m 

lteichenau (by road) 


2 

6 

Uanz 


4* 

14| 

Trons 


4 

12 

Dissentis 


n 

7 * 



69 

206f 


The railway recently opened from 
Waldshut to Schaffhausen, and the 
line connecting that town with Win¬ 
terthur, enable travellers from Basle 
bound for the E. of Switzerland to 
visit the Falls of the Rhine with little 
delay, and the line here described is 
but little more circuitous than that by 
Olten and Zurich. A traveller anxious 
to reach Coire in one day from Basle, 
may start at 6 a.m., and, after a delay 
of 5^ hrs. for breakfast and seeing the 
Falls,may take the Winterthur train at 
the Dachsen station. From Winterthur 
he may continue his journey by the 
Wallenstadt line, after a delay of if hr. 
at Wallisellen, or else take the more 
circuitous route by Rorschach, which 
rejoins the other train at Sargans. A 
far more satisfactory way to see the 
Falls is to halt on the first day at one 
of the hotels mentioned below, and to 


start about 7 a.m. on the following 
morning, arriving at Coire at 2 P.M. 

If bound for Schaffhausen, or other 
places in the NE. of Switzerland, tra¬ 
vellers at Basle should take their ticket? 
at the German station at Klein Basel, 
not at the Central Swiss station. A 
diligence now runs daily from Coire to 
Dissentis, and thence by the Oberalp 
Pass to Andermatt (Rte. D) in 13 hrs. 
Carriages may be hired at Coire. 

After quitting Klein Basel —the 
suburb of Basle lying on the rt. bank 
of the Rhine —the rly. to Schaffhausen 
enters the Duchy of Baden. About 
20 m. from Basle is Sdckingen (Inn : 
Lowe). The ancient convent, whose 
two towers are conspicuous from the 
village, was once of great importance, 
and held seignorial rights over the en¬ 
tire Canton of Clarus. Lanffenburg 
(Inn: Post) is a small Swiss town 
connected by a roofed bridge with the 
rly. station on the rt. bank. The po¬ 
sition is very picturesque, and the 
river here forms dangerous rapids, 
wherein Lord Montague, the last male 
heir of his family, was drowned. The 
next place of any note is Waldshut 
(Inns : Rebstock, good and reasonable; 
Biidischer Hof), where a branch of the 
Swiss Nordostbahn—or North- eastern 
Railway—crosses the Rhine, and con¬ 
nects the Duchy of Baden Rly. with 
the Baden station on the way from 
Olten to Zurich (§ 26. Rte. B). Be¬ 
tween Waldshut and Schaffhausen the 
Rhine makes a considerable bend to the 
S.; and the rly. quitting its banks, is 
carried ENE. to Erzingen, where it 
leaves German territory, and enters 
the Canton Schaffhausen, one of the 
smallest in Switzerland, and the only 
one lying on the N. side of the Rhine. 
The traveller intending to visit the 
Falls may best leave the rly. at the Neu- 
hausen station, the last before reaching 
Schaffhausen, and considerably nearer 
to the object of his journey. 

The Falls of the Rhine (Germ., 
Pvheinfall) are often called Falls of 
Schaffhausen, but are more than 2 m. 
from the town. Several Hotels are 






ROUTE C. — SCHAFFHAUSEN. 


203 


open to receive visitors, of -whom 
many are induced to halt here for 
days or weeks. On the rt. bank, and 
near to the Neuliausen station, is the 
Schweizer Hof, with a pretty garden 
and excellent view of the Falls, large, 
well kept, clean, and reasonable— 
charge en pension 50 fr. weekly. The 
landlord has acquired the exclusive 
right of fishing here for himself and 
his guests. On the same side, nearer 
the station, but less well situated, is 
the Bellevue. On the opposite, or 1. 
bank, the old Castle of Laufen, f m. 
from the Dachsen station on the line 
from Schaffhausen to Winterthur, has 
been converted into an hotel. There is 
a good and cheap inn (Hotel Witzig) 
in the village of Dachsen, about f m. 
from the Falls. 

The waterfall is unique in Europe 
for the mass of the stream, yet 
visitors who have been prepared by 
reading poetical descriptions of the 
scene are apt to experience a feeling 
approaching to disappointment. The 
height is not great—varying from 50 
to 60 ft.; nor does the river spring 
over the ledge at a single bound, as in 
most of the more famous alpine Falls. 
Yet a near approach to the rushing 
cataract, especially on the S. side, 
where the mighty mass and resistless 
force of the waters is best appreciated, 
cannot fail to make a deep impression. 
The best point for enjoying a near 
view is a strong wooden pavilion, 
called Fischetz, reached through the 
grounds of the castle of Laufen. This 
projects into the spray of the waterfall, 
which rushes down from above, and 
seems momentarily to threaten the 
spectator. The wide circular basin 
below the Falls may be safely crossed 
in a boat, though the water is in places 
much disturbed. The boatmen land 
visitors from the right bank a little 
below the Fischetz, and also take them 
to the central rock which rises in the 
middle of the stream, and divides the 
cataract into two portions ; there is 
no difficulty in climbing up to the top 
of the rock. Those who dislike to 


| undergo some tossing in a boat, may 
cross the river by the bridge a short 
distance above the Falls, near which is 
a large new hotel (H. Rhemfall). The 
visit to the Fischetz should on no 
account be omitted. The Falls are 
sometimes illuminated after nightfall 
by electric light, and the effect is said to 
be marvellous. Immediately opposite 
the Falls, on a point of land projecting 
into the stream, is the small castle of 
Woert, now converted into a restau¬ 
rant, where a tower, fitted with a 
camera obscura, affords one of the best 
general views. 

Among the excursions available for 
those who remain some days here, one 
of the most interesting is that to the 
monastery of Rheinau, built on an 
island in the Rhine. It was founded 
in 778, and was long a place of im¬ 
portance, the abbot having enjoyed 
princely rank. The library is said to 
contain valuable MSS. Those who 
intend to follow the rly. from Schaff¬ 
hausen to Winterthur, and do not care 
to visit the former town, may take the 
train at the Dachsen station, near 
Lauffen (see below). 

Schaffhausen (Inns: Krone; Schiff; 
Falke ; Schwan ; all in the town: on 
the S. side of the Rhine, near the land¬ 
ing-place of the steamers, is the Hirsch, 
comfortable and reasonable) is a cu¬ 
rious old town on the rt. bank of the 
Rhine, well deserving a visit from the 
lovers of mediaeval architecture. The 
walls and gateways, and the halls 
of the Ziinlte or guilds, are in the 
style of the old Suabian towns. On 
rising ground is the castle called 
Munoth, with walls 18 ft. thick, and 
curious bomb-proof casements. 

A hill, called Huh Randen (3,008'), 
about 10 m. N. of the town, near the 
road leading through the Black Forest 
to Carlsruhe, commands a view of the 
L. of Constance, and the northern 
cantons of Switzerland, extending to 
the chain of the Alps, and, in very 
clear weather, to Mont Blanc. 

The railway from Schaffhausen to 
Winterthur is carried for about 1 j m. 





204 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. 

along the N. hank of the Rhine, crosses 
the river above the Falls, and then 
plunges into a tnnnel under the hill on 
which stands the castle of Laufen. 
After issuing from the tunnel, pas¬ 
sengers have a glimpse of the Falls, and 
presently stop at the Dachsen station, 
whence omnibuses ply to the Hotel 
at the castle. The rly. then traverses 
a rich well-cultivated tract lying in 
the Canton Zurich, but there is no 
object of much interest on the way 
to Winterthur (Inns : Adler, nearest 
the rly. station, good; Lowe; Krone; 
Wilde Mann, good), a thriving mo¬ 
dern town, with nothing to interest 
strangers. FTere the rly. from Ro- 
manshorn on the L. of Constance joins 
the branch from Schaffhausen. 

The rly. to Zurich follows the banks 
of the Toss, passing within sight of the 
castle of Kyburg , the ancient strong¬ 
hold of a race that held dominion over 
a great portion of the N. of Switzer¬ 
land. Their domains passed to the 
house of Habsburg, and the Emperor 
of Austria still retains among his 
many titles that of Count of Kyburg. 
Leaving the valley of the Toss, the 
rly. bends to S.W. amidst green hills, 
and before long enters the valley of 
the Glatt. At Wallisellen , 6 m. from 
Zurich, the traveller reaches the junc¬ 
tion of this line with the rly. leading 
to Wesen and Coire. As mentioned 
in Rte. A, travellers going from Zu¬ 
rich to Rapperschwvl or Wesen may 
avail themselves of this rly., instead of 
taking the lake steamer. 

About 5 m. SE. of Wallisellen is the 
little lake of Greifensee, with a village 
and an old castle bearing the same 
name. The latter is famous for the 
gallant resistance made by a* handful 
of men forming the garrison to the 
Swiss confederates under Itel Reding, 
in 1444. The execution of the com¬ 
mander and the sixty or seventy men 
under him who survived the taking of 
the castle, was one of the few acts of 
cruelty that disgraced the Swiss lead¬ 
ers in the heroic ages of their struggle 
for independence. 


§ 27. THE TODI DISTRICT. 

Uster (Inn: Kreuz) is a pretty town 
with a fine castle, commanding views of 
the Alps, beyond which the rly. is car¬ 
ried through a marshy tract, first to SE., 
then turning nearly due S. From the 
Bubikon station the pedestrian may, in 
1 ^ hr., ascend the Bachtel (3,671'), and 
gain from the summit one of the finest 
views in this part of the Canton 
Zurich. There is an Inn on the top. 
At several points the rly. commands 
distant views of the Glarus Alps. 
Entering the Canton St. Gall, the 
traveller soon reaches the Lake Oj 
Z urich at 

Rapperschicyl, described in Rte. A. 
The rly. is carried along the shore for 
about5^m.to Schmerikon (Inn: Rossli), 
at the E. end of the lake (Rte. A), and 
2 m. farther arrives at Uznac.h (Inn: 
Linthhof, not bad), a small but busy 
town, with a large cotton-mill driven 
by water power, and with some consi¬ 
derable beds of lignite (whose age is 
questioned by geologists) in the neigh¬ 
bourhood. The rly. now avoids the 
marshy plain that has been partly 
drained by the Linth canal (Rte. A), 
and is carried SE. along the base of 
the hills, commanding at intervals fine 
views of the mountains that enclose 
the Linth Thai, The Wesen station 
is some way from the village. The 
refreshment-room is ill spoken of; but 
there is a good little Inn (Hotel Speer) 
close at hand, and commanding a fine 
view. 

Wesen (Inns : Schwert; zum Speer; 
both fairly comfortable and very reason¬ 
able, pension 4 fr. daily, without wine) 
is a small village, beautifully situated 
at the W. end of the Lake of Wallen- 
sferr/t(Germ.,Wallensee). This, which 
is 1,393 ft. above the sea, and from 
400 to GOO ft. in depth, ranks high 
among alpine lakes for the grandeur 
of its scenery. It affords one of the 
best instances of the type called by M. 
Desor Lacs de Combe. Excepting the 
Bay of Uri, at the E. end of the Lake of 
Lucerne, there is none in Switzerland 
that is enclosed by such high and 
steep mountains. It is, however, defi- 






ROUTE C. — LAKE OF WALLENSTADT. 


205 


cient in variety, "being simply a deep 
and straight trench, about 10 m. long 
and If m. wide, lying due E. and W., 
between two parallel ranges of moun¬ 
tains, wherein the same views are re¬ 
peated with little variation at what¬ 
ever point the spectator takes his 
stand. This remark holds especially 
as to the range of the Churfirsten, on 
the N. side of the lake. Seven peaks 
are commonly reckoned; hut there are 
nine or ten with distinct names, and 
equally deserving of notice. The aver¬ 
age height of these summits is above 
7,000 ft., and the Scheibcnstol reaches 
7,554 ft. This range is best visited 
from Wallenstadt, at the E. end of the 
lake (§ 28, Rte. M). The mountains on 
the S. side are more varied in form. 
The lower slopes are gentler, and are 
broken by several narrow glens and 
deep ravines. Behind these rise se¬ 
veral rugged peaks, of which the most 
conspicuous is the Murtschenstock 
( 8 , 012 '). 

The neighbourhood of Wesen abounds 
in interesting excursions for pedes¬ 
trians, of which the following may be 
specified : 

The Biberlikopf, about 1 hr. W. of 
"Wesen, commands views of the L. of 
Wallenstadt to the E., and that of 
Zurich to the W. 

The village of Amden , or Ammon, is 
reached in about hrs., passing a 
place called Fly, where there is a 
country Inn. The ascent by a path 
carried up steep cliffs gives beautiful 
views over the lake, and the position 
of the village is very fine. In return¬ 
ing, the traveller may take a steep 
downward path, passing through a 
ravine with a fine waterfall of the 
Beyerbach, and reach the lake shore at 
Baths, whence a boat will take him 
back to Wesen. 

The paths to Glarus from Miihle- 
horn and Murg (mentioned in Rte. A) 
abound in fine scenery. 

The Niedersee and Obersee above 
Niifels (Rte. A) are both well worth a 
visit. 

There is a curious cavern called f 


Geisterstube, with the ruins of a small 
fort, immediately above the village of 
Wesen. 

The ascent of the Speer, the most 
interesting of all the excursions from 
Wesen, is described in § 28, Rte. K. 

Since the opening of the rly. from 
Wesen to Coire, the steamers on the 
lake have been discontinued, and a 
traveller wishing to enjoy the fine 
scenery must engage a boat to take 
him to Wallenstadt. The railway, 
after traversing the Linth Canal and 
then the Escher Canal, is carried along 
the S. shore, passing through a succes¬ 
sion of tunnels with brief intervals in 
which the traveller gains glimpses of 
the lake, and of the grand precipices 
of the Murtschenstock. About 5 m. 
from Wesen is Miihlehorn, with a good 
country Inn (zum Seegarten), very 
finely placed at the opening of a savage 
ravine descending from the Murtschen¬ 
stock. This offers a tempting halting- 
place for a mountaineer. On the oppo¬ 
site shore of the lake is the fine water¬ 
fall of the Beyerbach, and above it to 
the 1. the church of Amden. 

Murg (Inn : Ivrenz) lies in the Can¬ 
ton St. Gall, 2j m. beyond Miihlehorn, 
at the opening of the Murgthal, a very 
fine glen lying E. of the Murtschen¬ 
stock. At its head, extending to the 
S. of that peak, are several small lakes 
one above the other, the highest of 
which is 5,981 ft. above the sea. A 
path leads that way to Engi, in the 
Sernfthal (Rte. K). Beyond Murg the 
train passes below the village of Quar- 
ten, and then calls at the Unterterzen 
station. These names, with that of 
Promsch (prima), Gunz (secunda), and 
Quinten (quinta), recall the period when 
these were Roman stations. The last- 
named, sometimes erroneously called 
St. Quinten, is the solitary village 
on the N. shore of the lake, and is 
difficult of access save by water. 
Between 4 and 5 m. from Murg is the 
rlv. station for 

Wallenstadt (Inns : Goldenen Adler, 
by the lake, good and cheap ; Chur- 
fursten, by the station, good ; Hirsch), a 




20G ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 27. THE TOD1 DISTRICT. 


small town in an unhealthy situation on 
the N. side of the Seez stream, which 
has been embanked with a view to drain 
the marshy tract on either hank. This 
is the best place for excursions among 
the Churfirsten range (§ 28, Rte. M). 

The valley connecting Wallenstadt 
with Sargans is interesting to the geo¬ 
logist and the physical geographer. 
It affords one of the few instances 
where the course taken by a great 
river through a mountain country 
seems to depend on accident rather 
than on orographic conditions. After 
uniting in a single bed all its principal 
sources, the Rhine flows from Reich- 
enau, past Coire, till, arriving near 
Sargans, it has to choose a course 
between two valleys of about equal 
depth. The course actually taken by 
the stream lies NNE. to Vaduz (§ 28, 
Rte. C), while the other valley is that 
traversed by the rly. between Wallen¬ 
stadt and Sargans. The barrier is so 
low, that a dam 25 ft. in height thrown 
across the present course of the river 
would suffice to divert it into the lake 
of Wallenstadt; and as the bed of the 
valley seems to be formed altogether 
of alluvial deposits, it is likely that the 
river would soou scoop out for itself as 
deep a channel as that through which 
it now flows. 

The distance from Wallenstadt to 
Sargans is about 9 m. Near to 
the former town the ruined castle of 
Graplang is seen on the rt. hand. 
It dates from the ninth century, and 
was long the seat of the ancient 
family of Tschudi, which boasts a 
genealogical tree showing an unbroken 
descent from the year 870. Many of 
their monuments are preserved in the 
church of Flums, a station 2 m. from 
Wallenstadt at the opening of the 
Fliimserthal. The summits of the 
Mageren (8,294') and the Spitzmeilen 
(8,218') are seen at the head of the 
glen, and a track passing E. of the 
latter peak leads to Matt in the 
Sernfthal (Rte. L). Opposite Flums, 
the chapel of St. George, perched on a 
rock on the N. side of the valley, is a 


prominent object. The next rly. 
station, nearly 5 m, beyond Flums, is 
Mels, at the opening of the Weiss- 
tannen Thai (Rte. L). Near at hand 
is Plons, where the iron ore extracted 
from the Gonzen mine (§ 28, Rte. C) 
is smelted. About 2 m. from Mels is 
the Sargans Junction station, where 
the line from Wesen to Coire meets 
that from St. Gall and Rorschach. 
The station is about a third of a mile 
from the small town of Sargans (de¬ 
scribed in § 28, Rte. C). The scenery 
of the Rhine valley is here very fine. 

The rly. is carried ESE. parallel 
to the Rhine about 3|m. from Sargans 
to the station, which is j m. distant 
from the Baths, of 

'Ragatz (Inns: Quellenhof, large new 
house, and Hof Ragatz, kept by the 
same proprietor, fairly good, often 
crowded, prices en pension reasonable, 
not cheap to passing travellers; Hotel 
Tamina, new, pretty good; Schiifle; 
Krone ; H. Calanda; and several 
others ; besides pensions for those who 
use the waters, of which P. Anderes 
is recommended). Those who come 
here for the sake of the mineral waters 
usually prefer to lodge at the Hof—baths 
supplied directly from the hot springs 
at Pfafers. The situation of Ragatz, 
close to the opening of the gorge of 
the Tamina, and in a part of the valley 
of the Rhine where the stream is en¬ 
closed by many fine mountains, is ex¬ 
tremely picturesque, but too hot to be 
agreeable to those who take active ex¬ 
ercise, being only 1,628 ft. above the 
sea. It is chiefly frequented by per¬ 
sons who prefer it as a residence to 
Pfiifers while using the waters. These 
reach the Hof Ragatz in pipes, pre¬ 
serving a temperature of nearly 97° 
Fahr., and are supposed to be as effi¬ 
cacious as when used on the spot. 

In the cemetery here is a marble 
monument to the philosopher Schelling, 
erected by the late King of Bavaria. 

Of the many excursions that may 
be made from hence, the most remark¬ 
able in every way is that to the hot 
springs of Pfafers , which burst out in 




207 


ROUTE C. - 

the gorge of the Tamina, about 2i m. 
above Ragatz. The Baths are now 
accessible by a good char - road. 
Small vehicles mount in f hr. and 
return in less than £ hr.—charge 5 fr. 
From its opening close to Ragatz the 
valley of the Tamina is a mere ravine, 
with high and steep mountains rising 
on either hand, and the walk or drive 
to the Baths by the road along the 
1. bank is in itself sufficiently interest¬ 
ing. The establishment is a large 
monastic-looking building, capable of 
accommodating 200 patients. Lying 
in the depths of a ravine between walls 
of dripping rock, the position of these 
baths is far from attractive. Save for 
those who are able to climb the steep 
paths that lead to the upper valley, 
there is no exit except by the single 
road leading to Ragatz ; and it is not 
surprising that most patients prefer 
the finer position and greater sense of 
freedom that they find there. Im¬ 
mediately above the large stone hall 
where patients drink the waters, the 
nummulitic limestone rocks on either 
side of the Tamina rise in vertical 
walls, leaving a mere strip of sky 
overhead. A pathway is partly cut 
in the rock, partly carried along 
planks supported on iron hold-fasts, 
30 or 40 ft. above the torrent. After 
passing a doorway, where 1 fr. is 
charged for admission to each vi¬ 
sitor, the cleft becomes still narrower, 
the rocks close overhead, and only 
here and there some gleams of daylight 
reach the bottom of the abyss. Amidst 
the gloom, which is nearly pitch dark¬ 
ness except in the middle of the day, 
the traveller advances along the frail 
pathway. This has of late years 
been made more secure by a hand¬ 
rail. About jf m. from the Baths the 
actual sources are reached. The water 
issues from several clefts in the rock 
at a temperature of about 100° Fahr., 
and is received in a reservoir whence 
it is led in pipes to the neighbouring 
Baths, and in part to Ragatz. The 
effect of returning to daylight from 
this extraordinary chasm is scarcely 


- PFAFERS. 

less striking than the entrance to it, 
and the excursion should on no 
account be omitted by travellers visit¬ 
ing this part of Switzerland. 

The waters are used both internally 
and for bathing, and are said to pro¬ 
duce a marked effect in cases of dis¬ 
ordered nerves, in diseases of the 
bowels, in hemorrhoids, and some forms 
of rheumatism. They are almost 
tasteless, and chemical analysis fails 
to detect any active principle save a 
slight proportion of alkaline and 
earthy salts. Said to have been dis¬ 
covered in the eleventh century, the 
spot was long nearly inaccessible. 
Patients were let down by a rope from 
the rocks above with a supply of food, 
and were hauled up again when the 
period of their probation had expired. 
At a later date the steep path leading 
from the village of Pflifers to the pre¬ 
sent Baths was constructed. The first 
building was erected in the seventeenth 
century. A further progress was 
effected when a mule-path was carried 
along the W. slope of the valley from 
Ragatz to the hamlet of Valens , and 
thence down to the Baths. That 
circuitous and inconvenient mode of 
access was finally replaced by the 
present char-road, which has done 
much for the convenience of patients, 
but has also lessened the singular effect 
of the place to visitors who merely 
come to enjoy a striking scene. 

In returning to Ragatz, most pedes¬ 
trians make a circuit by the village 
and convent of Pfiifers. These lie on 
the E. side of the Tamina, about 600 
ft. above the Baths, or 2,800 ft. above 
the sea. The rocks on the side of the 
gorge opposite to the Baths being quite 
inaccessible, the ascent is by a steep 
path above the 1. bank. After awhile 
the path descends to the 1., and crosses 
the torrent (here invisible) immedi¬ 
ately over the pathway which had been 
traversed in visiting the hot springs. 
A passenger not aware of the fact 
would not suppose that from 100 to 
200 ft. below him a considerable stream 
rushes down through its concealed 




208 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 27. THE TODI DISTRICT. 


channel. In some states of the wea¬ 
ther the vapour from the hot springs 
is seen rising through the very narrow 
cleft which must once have given 
passage to the Tamina. A steep 
staircase formed of logs or the roots 
of trees leads up to the meadows above 
the rt. bank. Here a path to the rt. 
leads to Viittis (Rte. K), while that to 
the 1. is the way to the village of 
Pfeifers (Inns: Taube ; Krone). Close 
at hand is a large building now a 
lunatic asylum, but once one of the 
richest and most powerful monastic 
institutions in Switzerland—the Bene¬ 
dictine Abbey of Pfiifers. Founded 
in 713, the community held sove¬ 
reign authority over the neighbouring 
country, and the abbots long had 
princely rank. Pillaged and partly 
ruined by the French, it was finally 
suppressed in 1838 by the Cantonal 
Government of St. Gall. The building 
commands a noble view, extending on 
the one hand to the L. of Wallenstadt 
and the Churfirsten, and on the ether 
to the fine peak of the Falkniss (8,338') 
on the E. side of the Rhine, the most 
conspicuous object in all the views 
from the neighbourhood of Ragatz. A 
rough char-road descends rather steeply 
from Pfiifers to Ragatz, the distance 
being a little over 2 m. On the rt., 
descending, is the ruined castle of 
Wartenstein. The pedestrian may 
prolong his walk by following a track 
that leads E. from the village along 
the slope of the Piz Lun (4,165'), and 
descend to the high road leading to 
Coire near the village of Mastrils. 
He may then return to Ragatz, or else 
ci’oss the bridge over the Rhine that 
leads to the rly. station at Landquart 
(see below). 

Among the shorter excursions from 
Ragatz, may be mentioned the mined 
castle of Freudenberg. lying W. of the 
village, and that of Wartenstein (al¬ 
ready mentioned) by the road to the 
village of Pfiifers. Both of these, 
especially the latter, command fine 
views. 

Another pleasant excursion is that 


to the fortress of Luziensteig (§ 34, 
Rte. C), reached by carriage-road in 
about 4 m. from Ragatz. 

The mountaineer mav make the as- 
cent of the Calanda from Ragatz, but 
this is more conveniently undertaken 
from Coire (see below). Another 
considerable expedition is the ascent 
of the Piz Sol (9,340')—the highest of 
the Graue Horner. A long day is 
required, and it is well to start rather 
before daylight. 

The rly. from Ragatz to Coire 
crosses the Rhine, and at the same time 
enters the Canton Grisons by a long 
wooden bridge leading to Maienfeld, 
a small walled town of antique aspect, 
with a tower attributed to the Emperor 
Valentinian. This part of the valley 
of the Rhine abounds in remains of 
the feudal period. Flvery projecting 
rock is crowned by the mins of 
some stronghold, and the surrounding 
scenery is very grand ; but the effect 
is somewhat marred by the unsightly 
tract of bare gravel that covers the 
level floor of the valley. The Rhine, 
bearing down vast masses of detritus, 
constantly changes its course, and 
reduces the plain to a barren waste. 
The slopes of the hills between the 
Maienfeid and Malans produce excel¬ 
lent wine. The two finest qualities, called 
Completer and Herrschiiftler, are said 
to rival the juice of Burgundy, but are 
seldom to be had pure at inns. About 
3 m. beyond Maienfeld the rly. crosses 
the Landquart torrent, issuing from 
the Priittigau (§ 34, Rte. D) near the 
village of Malans. S. of the bridge 
is the Landquart station. To the NE. 
is seen the peak of the Augstenbery 
(7,801'), and to SE. the four towers of 
the Castle of Marsel dins , one of the 
numerous seats of the ancient family 
of Salis. which has given many eminent 
men to the Grisons. 

S. of the junction of the Landquart 
with the Rhine, both banks of the river 
lie in the Grisons; from that limit to 
the L. of Constance the 1. bank belongs 
to the Canton St. Gall. The moun¬ 
tains on the rt. bank in this part of the 



ROUTE C. — COIEE. 


209 


Rhine valley all assume a peculiar 
conical form. They are composed of 
the same problematical rock, called 
by Swiss geologists Graue Biindner 
Schiefer, and are separated by deep 
ravines out of which destructive tor¬ 
rents rush into the main valley. 

The next station is Zizers, situated, 
like most villages in the valley, on a 
cone of dejection formed of detritus 
from a lateral valley, such being for¬ 
merly the only spots secure from 
inundations of the Rhine. At Trim- 
mis, half-way thence to Coire, a fine 
waterfall issues from the gorge of 
the Maschanzer Tobel ; and a little 
farther is the opening of another wild 
ravine called Scaliira Tobel. On the 
opposite bank of the Rhine are the 
ruins of the Castle of Lichtenstein , the 
cradle of the princely house of that 
name, and that of Halclenstein , one of 
the numerous Salis castles. Here the 
Vorderrhein valley begins to open to 
WSW., and the peaks Tumbif, Urlaun, 
and Russein come into view before 
reaching 

Coire (Germ., Chur; Ital., Coira), 
the chief town of the Grisons and of 
E. Switzerland, 2,208 ft. above the 
sea. The chief Inns are Weisses 
Kreuz and Freieck, now united, in the 
middle of the town ; zum Lulunanier, 
near the Rly. Station ; zum Steinbock, 
at S. end of the town, with a fine view. 
These are about equal in accommoda¬ 
tion ; all are comlortable and clean. 
Next in rank is the Stern, good and 
reasonable ; and after this the Lowe 
and Sonne. 

Though containing but 7,000 in¬ 
habitants, Coire is a town of consider¬ 
able importance, being the central 
point towards w T hich converge most of 
the valleys of the east of Switzerland, 
as well as the alpine roads of the 
Splugen and Bernardino, leading into 
Italy, and on the line of the future 
Lukmanier Rly., which seems destined 
to be the main channel of communi¬ 
cation between Central Europe and 
the Mediterranean. It is one of the 
most ancient episcopal sees N. of the 

PART 11. p 


Alps. The Cathedral, dedicated to St. 
Lucius, a British king(?) and martyr, 
who preached the gospel here in the 
third century, is mainly in the pointed 
style, with portions of muc.h earlier 
buildings standing on Roman founda¬ 
tions. In the sacristy is an extremely 
interesting collection of ancient vest¬ 
ments, with fragments of silk of the 
7th or 8th century, and early metal w'ork. 

The Bishop's palace is very pic¬ 
turesquely placed on a rock ; within 
its walls arc included two Roman 
towers, known by the names Marsol 
and Spinol. This and the Cathedral 
stand in the upper town, chiefly in¬ 
habited by R. Catholics ; in the lower 
town the Protestant population pre¬ 
dominates. In the Ivantonschule near 
the Cathedral is a good collection of 
Natural History, chiefly formed by the 
late Prof. Theobald, who has done 
much to illustrate the geology and 
topography of his adopted canton. It 
includes the mineral collections of 
D. Placidus a Spescha, and the Swiss 
Herbarium of Moritzi. The Cantonal 
Library is remarkable as containing 
the fullest collection of the existing 
specimens of the Romansch language 
and literature. The Episcopal Ar¬ 
chives contain documents that go back 
to the Carlovingian period. 

It is foreign to the plan of this work 
to notice the history of the region 
which now forms the Canton Grisons 
(Germ., Graubiinden ; Ital., Grigioni): 
suffice it to say that, notwithstanding 
the valuable researches of the late 
M. von Moor and other local writers, 
there is still scope for investigation by 
a competent historical student among 
the extant documents preserved at 
Coire and elsewhere in this part of 
Switzerland. Since the period when 
this formed a portion of the Roman 
province of Rhtetia, and was traversed 
by the important military roads of the 
Julier and the Septimer, leading to 
Curia Rhmtorum (the present Coire), 
the history of this region abounds with 
dramatic incident, and presents a 
curious parallel to that of Switzerland, 




210 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. 

from which this was held distinct until 
quite modern times. The formation 
of the three leagues which secured the 
independence of the people—the Got- 
teshaus Bund including the centre and 
S. of the present canton—the Grauer 
Bund in the Vorder Rhein and its tri¬ 
butary valleys — the Zehngerichte 
Bund in the E. of the canton—may 
have been indirectly promoted by the 
example of the Forest Cantons of 
Switzerland, but seems to have arisen 
directly from the fact that the heads 
of the Church and a few of the feudal 
chiefs here sided with the people 
in their struggle against intolerable 
oppression. 

One of the causes that doubtless 
helped to maintain the separation be¬ 
tween the Grisons people and their 
Swiss neighbours was the prevalence 
of the Romansch language, an off¬ 
shoot from the Latin, of which some 
traces exist elsewhere in the alpine 
chain, but which is only here found in 
a comparatively pure condition. It is 
still the common language through 
two-thirds of the Grisons, and is sub¬ 
divided into three dialects, so different 
as to be sometimes mutually unintelli¬ 
gible. Several newspapers, in one 
or other of these dialects, circulate 
in the canton; and a grammar and 
dictionary, by O. de Carisch, is to be 
purchased in Coire. In several of the 
main valleys there are communes in¬ 
habited by a German-speaking popu¬ 
lation, and that language is on the 
increase. In two or three valleys be¬ 
longing to the canton, but lying on the 
S. side of the main chain, the people 
speak an Italian dialect resembling the 
Milanese. 

The position of Coire is extremely 
fine, close to the junction of the Plessur 
torrent, issuing from the Schanfigg 
valley (§ 35, Rte. E) to the E., with the 
Rabiosa descending from the S., and 
near the point where their united 
streams flow into the Rhine at the foot 
of the Calanda. Of the shorter walks 
in the neighbourhood of the town, 
those to the llosenhiigel, the Felsen- 


§ 27. THE TODI DISTRICT. 

keller, the Liirlibad and Chapel of 
St. Lucius, and the Scalara Tobel 
(mentioned above), are especially re¬ 
commended to strangers. 

From the slopes outside the town, 
the entire length of the Yorderrhein 
valley is visible in clear weather. In 
the extreme distance is seen the Badus, 
or Sixmaduna, which feeds the prin¬ 
cipal source of the stream. To the 
rt. is the range of the Crispalt, then a 
part of the Oberalpstoclc, and then a 
snowy pyramid, often pointed out as 
the Tddi, in reality theBrigelser Horn, 
orPizTumbif. Lower ranges conceal 
the other intermediate peaks of the 
Tddi chain, whose eastern extre¬ 
mity, the massive promontory of the 
Calanda (9,213)'), rises immediately 
opposite, on the 1. bank of the Rhine. 

The ascent of this peak is for the 
mountaineer the most interesting ex¬ 
cursion to be made from Coire; but 
whichever route be taken, it is a labo¬ 
rious expedition, involving a climb of 
nearly 7,500 ft. A guide should be taken. 

The view is admirable, and the 
mountain very interesting to the natu¬ 
ralist and the geologist, presenting, as 
it does, a nearly complete section of 
the sedimentary formations which con¬ 
stitute the greater part of the Tddi 
chain, in the following ascending 
series : — 1. Verrucano ; 2. Rauh- 

wacke (Trias); 3. Rothikalk (Lower 
Lias); 4. Calcareous slates of various 
colours, containing magnetic iron and 
gold (Upper Lias and Lower Juras¬ 
sic) ; 5. Calcareous slates with Belem- 
nites hastatus (Lower Oxfordian and 
Kelloway rock ?) ; 6. Dolomite (Mid¬ 
dle Jurassic); 7. Crystalline lime¬ 
stone, worked as marble (Upper Ju¬ 
rassic); 8. Neocomian, with Ostrea 
macroptera, may be seen in the Fels- 
bergerhorn, at the Weiber Sattel. and 
in the rocks by Haldenstein ; 9. Creta¬ 
ceous limestones (equivalents of Gault 
and Upper Chalk), little developed, 
but traceable between Untervatz and 
Mastrils; 10. Nummulitic limestone and 
Flysch—well seen in ascending from 
Ragatz to the convent of Pfafers. 



ROUTE C. 


VALLEY OF THE VORDERRHEIN. 


21 1 


Among other rare plants, Ranunculus 
Traunfcllneri,Gentiana tenella, and An- 
drosace Helvetica are found near the 
summit. Lower down are Viola pin- 
nata, Saxifrcuja mutata , Daplme al- 
pina, Limodorum abortivum, and Lilium 
bulbiferum. 

The ascent from Coire is commonly 
made from Haldenstein, and it is usual 
to pass the night at some chalets about 
2 hrs. below the summit. 

‘ In ascending from Ragatz, rough 
accommodation for the night may be 
had at the chalets called Obern Maien- 
siiss.’—[M.] 

A much less laborious excursion, 
said to offer a still finer panoramic 
view than that from the Calanda, is 
the ascent of the Stdtzer/iom (8,458'). 
This summit lies nearly du# S. of 
Coire, W. of the road leading by Tief- 
enkasten to the Julier and Albula 
Passes, and is equidistant from the four 
principal groups of the Grisons Alps 
—the Todi, Adula, Silvretta, and Ber¬ 
nina. The way lies by the carriage- 
road as far as Parpan (§ 35, Rte. A), 
about 8j m. from Coire. Thence the 
ascent is continued on foot or on 
horseback as far as the chalets of Sporz. 
The summit is reached in 3 hrs. from 
Parpan, and is quite within the powers 
of many ladies, to whom this may be 
recommended as one of the finest 
points of view in this part of the Alps. 

There is a diligence daily from Coire 
to Dissentis, in about 9 hrs. 

The pedestrian bound for the Vor- 
der Rhein, after leaving Coire, may best 
cross the ricketty wooden bridge over 
the Rhine to Felsberg, avoiding Reich- 
enau and the high road. He may pro¬ 
bably have ocular or audible evidence 
of the manner in which this portion 
of the Calanda is fast crumbling away. 
Owing to the rapid disintegration of a 
slaty limestone which underlies the 
dolomite that forms a large portion of 
the mountain, the latter breaks away 
in huge masses, which have over and 
over again threatened with destruction 
the village of Felsberg. Twenty years 
ago large sums were collected to en- | 


I able the inhabitants to remove from 
the jaws of danger. New houses were 
built, but most of the natives continue 
to live where they did before. After 
passing opposite to the village of Ems, 
on the rt. bank, the regular track 
mounts through an oak wood, and then 
descends to Tamins. A shorter foot- 
track to Reichenau keeps near to the 
river, passing in one place along a 
steep face of slippery debris. At Ta¬ 
mins is a fine view from the church, 
perched on a mass of fallen blocks of 
dolomite. Hence mounts the track to 
the Kunkels Pass (Rte. N.) The as¬ 
cent of the Piz Tsckep (La Morra ), 
(9,656'), an outlyer of the Ringelspitz, 
may be made in one long day from 
here. About Tamins many interesting 
ing plants have been found—e. g., 
Anemone montana. Ononis rotundifolia, 
Oxytropis pilosa , Astragalus monspes- 
sulanus, Tomasinia verticillaris, Leon- 
todon incanus, and Echinospermmn 
dejlexum. 

At the junction of the two Rhine 
streams, the Vorder and Hinter Rhein, 
half a mile from Tamins, stands Reich¬ 
enau, more fully noticed in § 31, Rte. A. 
(Inn : Adler, good and moderate.) 
Here the traveller enters the valley of 
the Vorder Rhein, called by the Swiss 
Biindner Oberland, and in Romansch 
Surselva. This branch of the famous 
Rhine stream flows in a nearly direct 
course for about 45 m. from the Ober- 
alp Pass to the Castle of Haldenstein, 
below Coire. A straight line between 
these points is scarcely anywhere a 
mile distant from the bed of the 
stream. The scenery is, however, by 
no means of the monotonous com¬ 
plexion that usually characterises a 
valley of this form. Narrow rocky 
defiles, alternating with open basins 
enlivened by villages and farmhouses, 
with numerous lateral valleys and al¬ 
pine glens opening on either hand 
views of the snowy peaks that enclose 
the main valley, combine all the ele¬ 
ments of picturesque scenery. The 
valley offers much interesting occupa¬ 
tion to the naturalist, but especially to 




212 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 27 . THE TODI DISTRICT. 


the geologist and mineralogist. The 
mountains surrounding the head of 
the valley are composed of crystalline 
rocks presenting great variety of struc¬ 
ture. To these, as we travel eastward, 
succeed verrucano, and secondary for¬ 
mations of lias and Jura limestones, 
capped at many points by cretaceous 
and eocene strata. 

As in other parts of the Grisons, 
the Romansch language prevails in 
the Vorderrhein valley, and in some 
of the remoter villages it is difficult to 
find anyone knowing German. This 
scarcely applies to Inns, where German 
is generally spoken. The names of 
places are often different, and on this 
account both the German and Ro¬ 
mansch names are in many cases 
given below. 

The valleys on the S. side of the 
Vorder Rhein are described in § 31. 
Two roads lead from Reichenau to 
Ilanz. The old road on the rt. 
bank, by Bonaduz, Vermin, Carrera, 
Valendas , and Kastris, is rougher, but 
pedestrians approaching from Thusis 
should take that side, reaching Bona- 
duz by foot-path from Rhiizuns. The 
frequented new road by the 1. bank 
mounts from Reichenau to Tamins, and 
then, turning to the 1., is carried at a 
considerable height above the river to 
Trins , 1 hr. from Reichenau. The 
lower part of the Vorderrhein valley is 
crowded with castles, once inhabited by 
the predatory nobles of Rhcetia, now for 
the most part gone to ruin. One of 
the most ancient was Hohentrins, said 
to have been founded a.d. 680. In 
mounting the hill on which stands the 
castle, the road passes the traces of a 
far more remote antiquity in the re¬ 
mains of terraces whose origin is 
questioned by geologists. Beyond 
Trins two deep lateral glens open 
out on the N. side of the main valley. 
The first of these is the Bargis, or 
Bargias Thai ; the next, the Segues 
Thai, through which lies the track to 
the Segnes Pass (Rte. I). The tor- 
rents descending from these unite be¬ 
fore joining the Rhine, and have each 


of them excavated a deep and wide 
ravine, to avoid which the road makes 
a considerable sweep to the rt., pass¬ 
ing through the picturesque woodland 
scenery of the Flimserwald, here and 
there opening views of the snowy 
range to the N., and varied by small 
lakes well stocked with fish. [The 
Bargis and Segues glens are separated 
by a massive mountain promontory, 
steep on every side, called the Flimser- 
stein. The summit, formed of num- 
mulitic limestone, is a long sloping 
plateau, rising from about 6,500 ft. at 
its southern extremity to over 8,000ft. 
Many rare plants grow here, of which 
Diant has glacialis, Saxifraga biflora. 
Campanula cenisia , Rumex nivalis, and 
Orchis Traunsteineri, deserve special 
menti(fn. The Flimserstem may be as¬ 
cended without difficulty by a path 
carried up its eastern face from the 
Bargis Thai, and from its summit the 
track to the Segnes Pass (Rte. I) may 
be joined near the top. A guide is 
requisite. ] 

The village of Flims (3,616'), at the 
SW. base of the Flimserstein, about 
hr. from Trins, has two country inns 
(Adler, pretty good; Post). Rather 
better quarters are found at the Wald- 
hiiuser, a roadside inn, about a mile 
beyond the village, often visited in 
summer by pleasure-seekers from 
Coire. Near at hand is the Cauma 
See, a pretty lake in the midst of 
the pine-forest on the 1. of the road. 
Pedestrians may take a path from 
Trins that keeps near the Rhine, avoid¬ 
ing Flims and Laax ; but little, if any, 
time is saved by it. At Laax the 
road crosses a ravine excavated by a 
glacier torrent issuing from the snow, 
fields of the Vorab, through the Pleun 
Thai. From hence the road descends 
towards the Rhine. The valley opens 
out, and the little town of Ilanz is seen 
at the junction of the main stream 
with the Glenner issuing from the 
Lugnetz Thai (§ 31). On the oppo¬ 
site, or rt. bank, stands ICastris, and 
above it, on a terrace of the Signina 
Stock, the hamlet of Seewis (2,838'), 





ROUTE C. 


ILANZ. 


213 


commanding one of the finest views in 
the valley. In 2^ hrs. from Flims, the 
traveller reaches 

Jlanz (Rom., Glion ) (Inns: Oberalp, 
good; Lukmanier,pretty good), ancient, 
poor, and dilapidated, but claiming to 
rank as the first city on the Rhine, 
2,356 ft. above the sea, and offering 
good head-quarters for excursions into 
the Lugnetz Thai and its tributaries ; 
the old Rathliaus is worth seeing—fine 
view from the church of St. Martin 
above the town. For those who wash, 
in a single excursion, to gain a general 
acquaintance with the Alps that en¬ 
close the Yorder Rhein, there is none so 
much to be recommended as the ascent 
of the Piz Mundaun (6,775'), imme¬ 
diately over Ilanz, on the rt. batik 
of the stream. This is the NE. extre¬ 
mity of the range separating the Val 
Tenji from the Yrin Thai, or western 
branch of the Lugnetz Thai. The 
summit, about 4,500 ft. above Ilanz, 
being nearly isolated, commands a 
complete view of the entire chain of 
the Todi, the Vorderrhcinthal and 
a great portion of the Adula range 
(§ 31), with more distant peaks, 
including the Galenstock to the W., 
and in the opposite direction the 
Rhaetikon and Silvretta Alps, form¬ 
ing the eastern boundary of Switzer¬ 
land. Having passed the church of 
St. Martin, it is possible to ascend 
nearly in a direct line to the top ; but 
there is a much easier way, practicable 
for a horse accustomed to mountain 
work, bearing to the left by the hamlet 
of Luwis, and thence over gently-slop¬ 
ing pastures to the chapel of St. Carlo. 
There is a tolerable mountain inn 
about f hr. below the summit which is 
easily reached in hrs. from Ilanz. 
The view may be compared with 
that from the Piz Languard, in the 
Engadine. The Bernina is, indeed, 
a far more imposing mass than the 
Adula; but, on the other hand, the 
chain of the Tbdi is higher, bolder, 
and more varied than the ranges of 
the Albula and Selvretta on the N. side 
of the Engadine. The valleys over¬ 


looked from the Piz Mundaun, lying 
some 3,000 ft. lower than the upper 
valley of the Inn, are richly wooded 
with deciduous trees as well as pines ; 
whereas bare, treeless slopes of alpine 
pasture give a somewhat monotonous 
character to the near view from the Piz 
Languard. From the chapel of St. Carlo 
the traveller may descend direct to the 
Baths of Peiden (§31), or he may vary 
his route by striking down the N. side 
of the mountain from the top to Ober- 
saxen on the rt. bank of the Rhine, 
from whence there is a track leading 
either up the valley to Trons, or back 
to Ilanz. 

From Ilanz, the pedestrian may 
choose between the high road and the 
track just mentioned by Obersaxen. 
The latter involves many ascents and 
descents, but the scenery is much more 
interesting,and it is more shaded from 
the sun. Obersaxen is a collection of 
scattered hamlets, on a terrace of lime¬ 
stone in the midst of the grey slates, on 
the mountain side, more than 1,000 ft. 
above the river. At Meyerhof ’ the 
largest of these hamlets, is a very 
decent country Inn, from whence an 
excursion may be made up the Val 
Gronda , through which the Piz Miezd't 
(9,258'), one of the peaks of the Terri 
range, riiay be ascended. The high 
road is rejoined at Tavanasa. 

Following the high road from Ilanz 
by the 1. bank of the Rhine, a powerful 
torrent, formed by the confluence of 
three streams — Flum, Ladral, and 
Schmue—is traversed after passing the 
village of Ruis, 1 hr. from Ilanz. The 
latter of these streams descends from 
the Panixer Pass (Rte. H), while the 
Flum leads by Brigels to the Kisten 
Pass (Rte. G). After passing through 
a narrow defile which the Rhine has 
excavated at a great depth below the 
original bed of the valley, the road 
crosses to the rt. bank at Tavanasa 
(2,707'), near which the Ulatschbach, 
issuing from Val Gronda, forms a pretty 
waterfall. The valley again closes, and 
for 3 m. the road passes through a 
defile, at the end of which a bridge 

o 




214 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND 

leads back to the 1. bank, and in 4 hrs. 
from Ilanz reaches 

Trons (Inns: Krone, not recom¬ 
mended; H. z. Tbdi). Just before en¬ 
tering the village is the chapel of St. 
Anne, and by its side the shattered 
trunk of an old sycamore-tree. They 
mark a spot which should be venerated 
by every lover of liberty; for history 
records no political event achieved by 
purer means, or for nobler ends, than 
the formation of the first Grisons 
League. Incited by Peter von Pon- 
taningen, abbot of Dissentis, several 
of the Rhaetian nobility resolved to 
cast their lot with the people, in the 
effort to curb the excesses of feudal 
tyranny and the license of armed 
freebooters. Under the sycamore tree, 
which is a surviving witness to the 
transaction, they met the deputies of 
the peasants from each district, in 
March 1424, and there swore the oath 
administered by Abbot Peter, pledging 
themselves to ‘hold together as good 
friends and true confederates, ready to 
risk life and goods, in order to guard 
the right, the public peace, free roads, 
and free commerce ; to protect every 
member of the bund, lay or cleric, 
p.oble or simple, rich or poor, in his 
rights and possessions ; to maintain 
each man his rights by law, and not 
by the strong hand; to withstand all 
lawless violence, and to punish the 
unruly, who will not obey the sentence 
of the law.’ Thus was formed the 
Grey League (Grauer-Bund), to which 
were afterwards united the Gottes- 
liaus Bund and the Zehngerichte 
Bund, making up nearly the territory 
of the present Canton of Graubiinden. 

Trons (2,820') lies close to the junc¬ 
tion with the Rhine of the Ferrera 
torrent, which descends through a wild 
ravine from the Puntaiglas Glacier — 
well worth a visit. 

[Following up the course of the 
stream, you reach some abandoned 
mines of magnetic iron, formerly 
worked in a green chloritic slate ; 
then mounting through the ravine, 
the ] ath disappears amidst a huge 


§ 27. THE TODI DISTRICT. 

mass of debris, beneath which the 
torrent forces its way. Above are 
seen some projecting ice-blocks, and 
in the background the massive Piz 
Urlaun. It is a stiff climb to mount 
from the ravine to the Puntaiglas Alp 
above it, which may be reached by a 
much easier but less interesting path 
from Trons. The Alp is a green pas¬ 
ture enclosed by precipices, the highest 
and steepest of the entire chain, belong¬ 
ing to the Piz Ner (10,072'), a grand 
inaccessible-looking peak. The geo¬ 
logy of this glen is very interesting. 
In the bottom of the ravine is a granite 
with very large felspar crystals, which 
may be traced in erratic blocks all the 
way to the Lake of Constance. With 
this is associated a syenite, which 
passes into diorite. Next appears a 
talcose quartz rock ( verrucano ), over 
which lies the usual series of Jurassic, 
cretaceous and nummulitic strata, while 
over the last a quartz rock, similar to 
that below, is superposed. Copper, 
antimony, and gold have been found 
in this glen, which is the resort of 
chamois, marmots, eagles, and occa¬ 
sionally of the Lammer-geyer. The 
ascent of the Piz Urlaun (11,OSS'), the 
third in height of the peaks of the 
Tbdi chain, was made from hence in 
1793 by Placidus a Spescha. 

He started from Trons with three 
companions and a porter. Having 
reached the head of the Ferrera Thai 
in 2 hrs., they ascended without diffi¬ 
culty the main stream of the Pun¬ 
taiglas glacier to its head, where it 
receives several secondary glaciers that 
descend through as many lateral chan¬ 
nels. Avoiding the first of these, on 
the left hand, which leads up to inac¬ 
cessible rocks, they mounted on the 
1 . by a much-crevassed branch of the 
upper glacier to a snow-covered slope 
leading to limestone rocks, which were 
climbed through an accessible cleft, 
and the first step in the ascent gained. 
A long slope of debris led from 
thence in 14 or 2 hrs. to the second 
stage. AIL Speseha’s companions 
stopped short in a cleft at the summit 



ROUTE C. — EXCURSIONS FROM DISSENTIS. 


215 


of this slope, and he ascended alone to the 
rounded snow-capped summit, reached 
in 1^ hr. Nearly the same course was ta¬ 
ken in 1865 bv Mr. Tuckett, with three 
friends and two guides. They de¬ 
scended in a SW. direction to the E. 
branch of the Gliens Gl., crossed this 
and the W. branch to the moraine on 
the rt. bank, and reached the lower 
Hussein Alp in 3^ hrs. from the top. 

About one league on the high road 
beyond Trons is Somvix, a large village; 
and opposite to it, on the rt. bank, Sur- 
rhein , at the opening of the Somvixer 
Thai, or Val Tenji (§ 31). The dis¬ 
tance from hence to Dissentis is about a 
league and a half, but midway a formi¬ 
dable obstacle has to be overcome. The 
torrent issuing from the Yal Russein, in 
which are united the glacier streams 
from all the highest peaks of the Tbdi 
group, has cut a deep ravine, through 
which it makes its way to join the 
Rhine. Formerly the road made a wide 
detour to avoid the difficulty, but the 
new road is carried at a level across 
a skilfully-constructed wooden bridge, 
and about 2 m. further on reaches 

Dissentis (Inns: H. Oondrau, or 
Krone, clean and comfortable ; H. Oon¬ 
drau, or Post, opposite the last; Adler). 
The famous Benedictine Abbey which 
gave its name to the village is now 
converted into a cantonal school. It 
was founded in 614 by St. Placidus, 
an early Christian convert and mar¬ 
tyr, on the spot where his master, St. 
Sigisbert, an Irish (or Scotch ?) monk, 
who first preached the gospel in this 
region, had buiit himself a hermitage. 
For historical details, see Theobald’s 
work, already cited. The present 
building is modern, with no remains 
of earlier times. The original mo¬ 
nastery, with its invaluable library, 
was destroyed by the French in 1799 ; 
and that which rose in its place, 
burned by an accidental fire in 1846. 
It stands at a height of 3,835 ft., 
upon a plateau overlooking the main 
valley, and just opposite to the con¬ 
fluence of the Medelser Thai (or Mid¬ 
dle Rhine) with the Vorder Rhine. 


Immediately below the abbey is the 
small village, surrounded by corn-fields 
and fruit-trees. The mildness of the 
climate—for the snow often disappears 
here in spring, while it still lies deep at 
Coire—is attributed to the influence of 
the S. wind (fohn) passing over the 
comparatively low barrier of the Luk- 
manier Pass, at the head of the Medel¬ 
ser Thai. This is an excellent place 
for head-quarters, and several weeks 
may be well spent by a mountaineer in 
exploring the neighbouring peaks and 
glaciers. Here meet the new road over 
the Oberalp Pass (next Rte.), the paths 
from the Lukmanier, the Uomo Pass 
(§ 30), the Kreutzli Pass (Rte. E), 
and that of the Sand Grat (Rte. F); 
besides others less frequented, here¬ 
after noted. The chief explorer of 
this district was a monk of the neigh¬ 
bouring abbey, named Placidus a 
Spescha, born 1752, of whose life and 
doings Theobald has given an inter¬ 
esting sketch. With the single excep¬ 
tion of the Tbdi, where his repeated 
attempts—the last at 72 years of age— 
were foiled by various accidents, he 
seems to have reached all the highest 
peaks of the neighbouring Alps. The 
following excursions are partly ex¬ 
tracted from his manuscripts, published 
by Theobald :— 

PizMuraun. —This peak rises on the 
S. side, of the Rhine, opposite the open¬ 
ing of the Yal llusscin. The summit 
(9,511') may be reached from the N. 
side, but more easily from the SW., 
passing by the Soliva Alp. The view 
is very similar to that from the Piz 
Mundaun over Ilanz; but the Tbdi and 
Oberalp groups, and the peaks at the 
head of the Medelser Thai, being nearer, 
are seen to greater advantage. 

Medelser Glacier .—A very consider- 

•/ 

able glacier, whose existence would not 
be suspected by a traveller passing 
through the Medelser Thai (§ 30, 
Rte. F), rests between the peaks that 
enclose the valley on the E. side. It is 
easily reached from the hamlet of 
Fuorns, where a torrent from the gla¬ 
cier descends to join the Middle Rhine; 



216 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. 

or from CuragUct , lower down in the 
valley, from whence a path mounts to 
the Plattas Alp , close to the glacier. 
This is an easy and interesting day’s 
walk. 

Val Cristcillina — Piz Puzata. — A 
more laborious excursion through fine 
scenery of the wild and savage cha¬ 
racter may be made from Dissentis to 
the Yal Cristnllina, either penetrating 
to the end of its E. branch, called Yal 
Ufiern, and mounting to the lakes that 
rest on the pass leading to Campo; or 
else attempting the ascent of the Piz 
Cristallina (10,344'), or the Piz Puzata 
(10,262'). The latter was climbed by 
Spescha without encountering any se¬ 
rious obstacle. It is possible to de¬ 
scend from the summit to Platla, and 
so shorten considerably the return to 
Dissentis (see § 30, Rte. F). 

Stockgron. — Reached from Yal 
Hussein (see Rte. F). 

Piz Urlaun. —Seems to be accessible 
from the Gliems Thai more easily than 
from Trons (see above). 

Piz Cotschen, or Tgietschen. — As¬ 
cended by Spescha; he passed the night 
with his servant at the Runs Alp (6,883') 
N. of Dissentis. Next morning they 
ascended through the Laiserein Thai to 
the crest of the ridge dividing Grisons 
from Uri. They here overlooked the 
great snow-plateau of the Brunni glet- 
scher, which they traversed, and from 
thence reached the summit (10,925') 
by a steep ascent along its eastern 
ridge. They had much difficulty in 
crossing a wide crevasse (bergschrund), 
and were nearly carried away by an 
avalanche of fresh snow on the steepest 
part of the peak. In two subsequent 
ascents from the SVY. side, Spescha 
was forced to take the same course 
for ascending the highest peak. The 
view extends from Mont Blanc to the 
Tyrol. 

A subsequent ascent by the late G. 
Hoffmann is recounted in ‘ Berg- und 
Gletscher-Fahrten.’ With his guide, 
Maria Trbsch of Silenen, near Amsteg, 
he reached the Kreuzli Pass at 6.15 am. 
From thence, keeping nearly at a level 


§ 27 . THE TODI DISTRICT. 

along the slopes of the Weitenalpstock, 
and then crossing the head of the Strim 
Glacier, he attained in 2f hrs. the foot 
of the peak. The climb up a steep 
couloir of snow took 4 hrs. There are 
two peaks nearly of the same height, 
but separated by a deep chasm; and a 
third lies to the S. Upon the middle 
and highest they erected a stone man. 
In 1864 Mr. Sowerby reached the top 
in hrs. from Sedrun by an easier 
way than either of those above de¬ 
scribed. From the foot of the Strim 
Glacier he mounted to the rt. up rocky 
slopes, and then over neve till he 
reached the ridge dividing that gla¬ 
cier from the Brunni Gl. From thence 
the peak is easily gained. Descending 
by the eastern ridge to the Brunni Gl. 
the traveller may reach the inn at Wal- 
derbalm in the Maderanerthal in 5 hrs. 

The name Oberalpstock given to 
this peak by some writers is by others 
applied to the entire group of which it 
is the highest point. 

Piz Ault. —A southern outlyer of the 
Cotschen, with two peaks — the Piz 
Ault proper (9,951'), and the Crap 
Alv (9,784'). Either may be reached 
in one day from Dissentis, ascending 
through the Acletta valley, which opens 
near the village. From thence the way 
is up a ravine called Magriel. To at¬ 
tain the higher peak, you bear to the 
rt. ; while by keeping to the 1. you 
may gain the summit of the Crap 
Alv. Monte Rosa is visible from the 
latter ; Mont Blanc, in addition, is in¬ 
cluded in the panorama from the Piz 
Ault. Both are composed of gneiss. 

Even those who do not attempt the 
ascent of the Todi or the Stockgron, 
nor the glacier passes leading from the 
Yal Russein across the main chain, 
should not fail to make at least one 
excursion to the head of that valley, 
which is described in Rte. F. 

A very fine view of the main valley, 
extending to Coire, and of the glaciers 
of the Medelsergebirg, is obtained from 
the chapel of Acletta, ^ hr.’s walk N. 
of Dissentis. 

J. M. Schnoler and Placidus Durgin 




ROUTE D.—TAVETSCHER THAR. 


217 


are recommended as guides. The 
charge for horses is high—‘ 11 fr. a 
day for each horse, with l fr. a day for 
the guide. If required for several days, 
a less price will be taken.’—[M.] 


Route D. 

DISSENTIS TO ANDERMATT BY THE 


OBERALP PASS— 

-SOURCES 

OF THE 

VORDERRHEIN. 

Hours’ 

Eng. 


walking 

miles 

Sedrun 

2 

6 

Oberalp Pass . 

• n 

6 

Andermatt . 




n 


The new road, completed in 

1865, be- 


tween Dissentis and Andermatt, taken 
in connection with the new Furca road 
between Andermatt and Brieg, for the 
first time opened direct communica¬ 
tion byroad between the east and west of 
Switzerland. Diligences now ply daily 
in summer between Coire and Ander¬ 
matt, taking rather more than 13 hrs. 
and halting for the mid-day meal at 
Trons. A carriage with two horses, 
costing from 100 to 120 fr., may be 
hired at Coire or Andermatt to make 
the journey in two days. Pedestrians, 
who usually prefer what is called the 
summer path, take 7 hrs. from Dissentis 
to Andermatt, but 6 hrs. suffice for an 
active walker. The so-called winter 
path has been superseded by the new 
road. 

Above Dissentis the Vorderrhein 
valley assumes a more alpine charac¬ 
ter, and is called Tavetscher Thai, 
renowned for its honey, cheese, and for 
rare minerals. Among other rare 
planls found here, Linncea borealis and 
Oxytropis uralensis may be noted. The 
char-road ascends rather steeply, and, 
after crossing at Segnas a torrent that 
issues from a ravine between the Culm 
da Vi and the Crap Alv, reaches Momp'e 
Tavetsch (4,583'), about 4 m. from Dis¬ 
sentis. Here opens, on the S. side of 
thevaFey the Val Pazzola, or V. Terms, 


through which the Terma torrent is 
poured into the Rhine from the Poras 
Glacier, backed by the Piz Ganneretsch 
(9,984'), called also Catscharauls, but 
this latter name has been given to other 
neighbouring peaks. Amid very pic¬ 
turesque scenery the road, after passing 
Bugney, terminates at 

Sedrun (a good country Inn : Krone 
—clean, and reasonable charges), the 
chief place in the Tavetscher Thai 
(4,587') at the outlet of the Dnm, a 
destructive torrent which carries down 
a vast amount of debris. The chloritic 
slate through which its channel is cut 
is rich in rare minerals and fine quartz 
crystals. On the rt. bank of the 
Rhine, a little below Sedrun, is the 
opening of the Naipser Thai, a fine 
wild glen, well deserving a visit. The 
path to it crosses the Rhine at Sedrun, 
and mounts by the hamlet of Surrhein 
to the angle of the mountain lying be¬ 
tween the Rhine and the Nalpsa; then 
entering the glen, passes Nacla, the 
chalets of Perdatsch, and reaches those 
of Nalps (5,990'). At the head of the 
glen is a pass rarely used, called the 
Bolkata de Nalps, leading to Sta. Maria, 
in the Medelser Thai. 

Pursuing the road from Sedrum to 
the Oberalp Pass, the traveller soon 
reaches the Strima torrent, descending 
from the Strim Thai, up which lies the 
way to the Kreuzli Pass (Rte. E). 
The upper part of the Tavetscher Thai, 
lying amidst crystalline rocks which 
show many traces of ancient glaciers, 
is, in winter peculiarly exposed to ava¬ 
lanches. Ruaras, the next village (Inn: 
Oberalp, good), has been twice in great 
part destroyed, and on one occasion 237 
head of cattle and 108 human beings 
were buried in the snow. Of the latter 
44 were ultimately saved. Two glens, 
descending from the Crispalt range, 
join their waters here. Through one 
of them, the Val Giuf, is the way to 
the Piz Giuf (10,164'), the highest 
summit of that range, which may be 
ascended without any serious difficulty. 

From Ruaras two different paths 
lead to the pass, or rather to the Ober- 




218 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 27 . THE TODI DISTRICT. 


alp See, as they do not cross the ridge 
at the same point. The rt.-hand way, 
or summer path, is shorter, but steeper 
and higher. The new road, following 
pretty nearly the old winter track, half 
an hour longer, but rather less steep, 
keeps near the Vorder Ilhein, here re¬ 
duced to a mountain torrent, and crosses 
the ridge at its lowest point. 

To follow the summer path, you as¬ 
cend from Ruaras over wooded slopes, 
passing round a buttress of the Crispalt 
above the hamlet of Crispciusa ; having 
rounded this, you traverse the pastures 
of Milez and Scharina, descending a 
little towards the upland glen, called 
Val Tiarms (Germ., Gdmmerthal ) (not 
to be confounded with the Val Terms 
near Dissentis), along whose torrent 
you ascend for a short distance only, 
and then bear away to the 1 ., over the 
alpine pasture which leads up to a 
depression in the ridge between the 
lofty Piz da Tiai-ms (9,564') on the 
rt. hand, and the much lower point 
of Calmot to the 1. From the sum¬ 
mit—a grassy ridge, 7,067 ft. in height 
•—locally called Passo da Tiarms —you 
descend by a gentle slope, and soon 
perceive the waters of the Oberalp See, 
a narrow sheet of water nearly a mile 
long, enclosed by rocky heights, and, 
although 6,663 ft. above the sea, well 
stocked with trout. To the W., on a 
higher shelf of the mountain, is a wild 
tarn, called the Lauter See, 1,014 ft. 
higher than the Oberalp See. 

At the E. end of the lake the path 
rejoins the new road. This follows the 
1. bank of the Vorder Rhein from Rua¬ 
ras to Selva, about 2 m. The forest 
which gave its name to this hamlet has 
been in great part cut down, and the 
natives have since been frightfully ex¬ 
posed to avalanches. I m. farther is 
Ciamut( new inn at the Post station), or 
Tschiamut, the last hamlet (5,3S0'), 
where rye, barley, flax, and beans 
are still grown at an unusual eleva¬ 
tion. The Rhine is here joined by two 
torrents : that from the Val Tiarms, 
sometimes called Gammerrliein, comes 
from the N, while in the opposite 


direction the more powerful Cornara- 
bach, or Corn'drarhein, descends from 
the glacier at the head of the wild and 
picturesque Val Cornara. The pastures 
of this glen belong to the people of Val 
Leventina, and they are accustomed to 
drive their cattle in summer by a diffi¬ 
cult pass partly over glacier, across the 
lofty ridge which separates the Corna- 
rathal from the Val Canaria (§ 30). 

To reach the Oberalp Pass from 
Ciamut, the road crosses the Gammer- 
rhein, and follows the 1. bank of the 
main stream, till some chalets are 
reached, where this divides into three 
branches. Leaving on the 1. hand the 
others, which lead to the proper sources 
of the Rhine, the road follows for awhile 
the northern branch, through the little 
alpine glen of Surpalix, and then 
mounts by long easy zigzags to the 
crest of the Oberalp Pass (6,732'), only 
a few ft. above the level of the lake 
where the foot-path joins it. Owing to 
the boggy nature of the ground, pedes¬ 
trians do well to keep to the road, 
which is carried along the N. side of 
the lake. This wild place was the 
scene of a bloody engagement between 
the French and the Austrians in 1799, 
which resulted in the retreat of the 
latter, and the occupation by the French 
of the basin of Andermatt. From the 
W. end of the lake it is an easy descent 
of 45 m. to the Oberalp chalets, where 
the valley widens: immediately below 
Andermatt is seen, and beyond it the 
dreary Urseren Thai, backed by the 
Furca Pass, on which the new inn is 
distinctly visible. The new road winds 
to the rt. ; the old rough track goes 
direct to Andermatt (§ 30) in 1 hr. The 
pedestrian may avoid it, and find his 
way through the meadows on either side. 

In fine weather there is not the 
slightest difficulty in keeping to the 
path here described; but when clouds 
hang over the pass, a lone traveller is 
liable to be misled by the numerous cat¬ 
tle tracks that cross each other in every 
direction. In descending by the sum¬ 
mer track from the pass towards Dis¬ 
sentis, beware of attempting to follow the 



ROUTE E.-KEEUZLI PASS. 


219 


stream of V. Tiarms down to its junc¬ 
tion with the Rhine. The true path 
keeps at a high level till it approaches 
Ruaras. 

[We have left by the way the sources 
of the Vorder Rhein, which may be 
visited on the way to Andermatt, or 
furnish an interesting excursion from 
Sedrun. Although properly belonging 
to the group of the St. Gothard Alps 
(§ 30), they are more conveniently 
described here. Returning to the 
above-mentioned chalets, about 1 m. 
above Ciamut, we there find three 
streams unite their waters to form this 
branch of the Rhine. The N. or Sur- 
palix branch leads to the Oberalp Pass; 
the middle stream comes from the Piz 
Nurschallas; the S. and principal 
branch is considered the true origin of 
the river. It is formed by the union of 
the streams from two lakes, the Puli 
JJulca to the S., and the Toma See to 
the W. The latter is a small oval lake 
or tarn, about 400 paces long, 7,690 ft, 
above the sea, lying on a shelf on the 
E. face of the Badus or Six Maduna. 
The steep rocks overhanging the lake 
are inaccessible, but the peak (9,616') 
is easily reached from the N. side, 
where the ridge connecting it with 
the Piz Toma sinks into a snow-filled 
hollow, which may be reached from the 
lake. Although not the highest point of 
that eastern portion of the St. Gothard 
range which is interposed between the 
valleys of the Vorder and Mittel Rhein 
(see § 30), the Badus, because of its 
central position, probably commands 
the finest view. To the E. the eye 
stretches along the valley to the town 
of Coire, where, at a distance of 45 m., 
several of the public buildings may be 
distinguished, while the background is 
filled by the still more distant range of 
the Rhcetikon (§ 34). SE. are the im¬ 
posing masses of the Medelsergebirge, 
and behind these some of the peaks of 
the Adula (§31). To the S. is the 
head of the Cornara Thai with the 
glaciers surrounding the Piz Bavescha 
(9,875'), and beyond these the moun¬ 
tains of Tessin. AY. are the central 


peaks of the St. Gothard, with Monte 
Rosa, and even Mont Blanc (more than 
100 m. distant), in the background; 
then the Bernese Alps, and near at 
hand the Unteralp Thai, leading to 
Andermatt. It is easv to descend to 

V 

that place by the AY. side of the moun¬ 
tain. A rather more difficult (?) and 
much more interesting route is to de¬ 
scend by the SW. side of the peak into 
the head of the Cornara Thai, amidst 
very grand scenery. From thence 
Ciamut is reached in 2 hrs., and Sedrun 
lA hr. farther.] 


Route E. 

DISSENTIS TO AMSTEG — KREUZLI 



PASS. 

Stunden 

Eng. 

miles 

Sedrun 


2 

6 

Kreuzli Pass 

• 

• 

Cl 

Etzliboden 

• 

3 

7* 

Amsteg 

• 

O 

• — 

9 1 

5 

25 


The Kreuzli (called in Grisons 
Hrixli ) Pass is rough and rather 
fatiguing, but nowhere difficult. In 
mounting from Amsteg there is some 
risk of losing the way, and a guide 
may be necessary, especially in cloudy 
weather. 

The char-road from Dissentis to 
Sedrun is described in the last Route. 
A short distance beyond Sedrun is the 
opening of the Strim Thai —a wild 
narrow glen, of dreary ruinous aspect, 
from the masses of rock that have 
fallen into it from the mountains on 
either hand, especially the Culm da 
Vi on the E. side. To reach the uppei 
end, where it divides into several ra¬ 
vines that run up to the glaciers of the 
Oberalpstock, is a long hour’s walk by 
a rough path. From thence the way 
to the pass is up the rocks on the 1. 
hand, or AY. side. The ascent is steep 
but not difficult, over rocks which, in 
places, show evidence of the former 
passage of a glacier. AYhen these arc 




220 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. 

surmounted, the pass (7,710') is soon 
attained in about 3 hrs.’ steady walking 
from Sedrun. From the summit there 
is a fine view of the Piz Cotschen, the 
highest of the Oberalpstock group, ac¬ 
cessible, though with difficulty, from 
this side (see Rte. C); the track leading 
to Amsteg, which is not well marked, 
descends in a westerly direction, at 
first gently, through a sort of hollow 
strewn with scattered rocks and patches 
of snow, between the Weitenalpstock 
(9,875'), an outlyerof Piz Cotschen on 
the N. side, and the Kreuzlistock on 
the S., and then more rapidly till it 
reaches some chalets standing in a 
little marshy plain near to the main 
stream of the Etzli Thai. This flows 
from an irregular amphitheatre formed 
by the rocks of the Bristenstock, the 
Piz Giuf (called on the Uri side Mut- 
tenalpstock ?), the Mutsch, and the 
Kreuzlistock. In the centre is a small 
lake, the Spillauer See, well worth a 
visit to a lover of grand scenery. It 
may be reached in about 2 hrs. from 
the above-mentioned chalets. In 3^ 
hrs. more, Mr. Sowerby ascended Piz 
Ner (10,036'), the nearest rival of Piz 
Giuf, and descended in 3 hrs. to Se¬ 
drun. From the same chalets the ascent 
of the Kreuzlistock may be easily made 
in 3 hrs. Being little over 9,000 ft. in 
height, the view is limited by the sur¬ 
rounding peaks. The N. base of this 
peak is a well-known locality for rare 
minerals. In 1866, Mr. Sowerby with 
several companions, effected a variation 
on the ordinary route by crossing the 
ridge between Piz Cotschen and the 
Weitenalpstock, and descending to the 
Etzlithal through the Sellenen Tobel. 

The path to Amsteg follows the tor¬ 
rent of the Etzli Thai nearly due N., 
along the 1. bank, till it reaches a place 
called Etzliboden, where a few chalets 
stand on either side of the stream. 
Trees now begin to appear ; the path 
keeps near to the stream, 'which is 
crossed three times, and a rather steep 
descent leads down into the Maderaner 
Thai, running from E. to W. at right 
angles to the Etzli Thai. From the 


§ 27 . THE TODI DISTRICT. 

junction of the two valleys the track 
descends to Amsteg (§ 30, Rte. A), 
(about half an hour’s steady walking), 
passing on the way the village of 
Bristen. 


Route F. 

DISSENTIS TO STACIIELBERG, BY THE 
SAND GRAT — ASCENT OP THE 
STOCKGRON. 

From lli to 12 hrs., exclusive of halts. 

To a moderately-practised moun¬ 
taineer this pass does not deserve the 
epithets ‘ difficult and dangerous ’ that 
have been sometimes applied to it, but 
it is long and somewhat fatiguing. 
Many travellers who have crossed it 
from the N. side have passed the night 
at the Upper Sand Alp, and have thus 
reduced the expedition to a very mo¬ 
derate day’s work. Subject to the 
remarks in Rte. A, future travellers 
will probably avail themselves of the 
new Inn, called Todi Wirthschaft, below 
the Pantenbriicke, and thus shorten the 
day’s walk by at least 5 m. 

It is not advisable to undertake the 
pass without a guide, but a mountaineer 
coming from Dissentis may send back 
his guide after crossing the pass and 
reaching the lower end of the Sand 
Glacier. 

As mentioned in Rte. C, the high 
road from Trons crosses the torrent 
issuing from Vpl Hussein, about fwo 
miles below Dissentis. This powerful 
torrent is the joint produce of the 
glaciers lying on the southern flank of 
the peaks of the Todi group, which 
pour down their separate streams 
through several converging glens, call¬ 
ed by the collective name Hussein 
Thiiler. The lower part of the Russein 
Thai, also called Val Barcuns , opens 
near the bridge through a deep ravine 
cut by the torrent through grey horn¬ 
blende rock. The track mounts steeply 
by the 1. bank of the stream amid 
rocks and pine-forest, then through 
i meadows, and past scattered chalets, 







ROUTE F.—SAND GRAT PASS. 


221 


where the valley begins to open out. 
Amidst very fine views of the neigh¬ 
bouring peaks, it reaches a point at 
which it divides. The W. branch is 
called Val Cavrein, and this again forks 
at the chalets of Cavrein into two 
branches — the Val Cavrein proper, 
running NW. up to the Tschiugel 
Glacier and Piz Cambrial —and Val 
Cavardiras , leading SW. over a glacier 
pass, to the Brunnigletscher , and so to 
the inn at Waldibalm in the Maderaner 
Thai, reached in 9 hrs. from the lower 
chalets in Val Russein. The Val Ca¬ 
vardiras is separated from the main 
valley of the Rhine by a steep rocky 
lidge, extending E. from the Piz Ca¬ 
vardiras (9,728'). The glen may be 
reached from Dissentis by going over 
the Acletta Pass to the Brunni Glacier, 
and crossing to the Cavardiras Gl. by 
the pass mentioned above. This is a 
pleasant variation on the common track 
from Dissentis to the Russein Alp. 

A massive snow-capped range di¬ 
vides the Val Cavrein fr.om the Russein 
Thai. The latter receives a consider¬ 
able tributary on the E. side through 
the Val Gliems, from the Gliems Glacier, 
lying on the SW. tlank of the Piz Ur- 
laun. Through a gap in the ridge 
which bounds it to the eastward, the 
Gliems Glacier is connected with the 
Puntaiglas Glacier (see Rte. C.) The 
chalets and pastures at the junction of 
the Gliems Thai are the Lower Rus¬ 
sein Alp (5,895'?). Following from 
that point the 1. bank of the main tor¬ 
rent, the track ascends rather steeply, 
nearly due N , to the last solitary hut. 
A short glen, called Val Pintga, de¬ 
scends from the W. side of the Culm 
Tyietschen (not to be confounded with 
the higher Piz Tgietschen, NW. of Dis¬ 
sentis), while the main glen, keeping 
to the E. side of that peak, is closed by 
the ice-covered ridge extending from 
it to the NE. A steep but not difficult 
track mounts over rock and slopes of 
debris to the Sand Grat Pass, 9138 ft. 
in height, about 6 hrs. from Dissentis, 
midway between the Klein Todi 
(10,072') and the Catscharauls. 


The view from the summit is very 
fine. To the W. is seen a part of the 
Clariden firn, the greatest snow-field in 
this part of the Alps. On the N. side 
is the Sand Glacier, over which lies the 
way to the valley of the Linth. E. is 
the Klein Todi, and beyond it the 
double peak of the Todi. To a prac¬ 
tised eye, all the formations which make 
up this huge mountain mass are dis¬ 
tinctly traceable from the pass, com¬ 
mencing with the gneiss, which occupies 
the bottom of the Russein Thai, up to 
the Jurassic rocks which constitute the 
peak. Looking from the Sand Grat it 
appears not altogether impossible to 
reach the summit of the Todi by a 
nearly direct course—of course a long 
and stiff climb. The Porta da Spescha 
is not seen, but Piz Mellen, the Stock- 
gron, and the long jagged spur dividing 
the Gliems Thai from the Russein Thai. 

The descent over the Sand Glacier 
is easy; but as there are some covered 
crevasses, the usual precautions should 
not be omitted so long as the way lies 
over the neve. The best course is to 
bear somewhat to the 1. till the moraine 
is reached. Thenceforward the way 
is free from difficulty. Ahout 2 hrs. are 
needed to reach the chalet of the Upper 
Sand Alp, and from thence, descending, 
Stachelberg is easily reached by a good 
path, through scenery of great beauty 
and grandeur, in 4 hrs. (see Rte. A). 

In taking the pass from the Stachel¬ 
berg side, 4^- hrs.’ good walking are 
required to reach the Upper Sand Alp; 
about 2^ hrs. thence to the summit; 
and 4j hrs. more for the descent to 
Dissentis. It is advisable to start 
rather before the day, as some of the 
finest scenery will be lost if night 
should come on during the descent to 
Stachelberg or Dissentis. 

As mentioned in Rte. A, the easiest 
course for ascending the Todi is from 
the head of Val Russein, either by the 
Porta da Spescha or the Porta da 
Gliems. Those who take the former 
course, probably the shortest, will sleep 
at the Upper Russein Alp (6,913'). 
The ascent is partly by the W. slopes 




222 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 27 . THE TODI DISTRICT. 


of the Stockgron, but finally by a steep 
and narrow glacier which forks below 
the top. Keep to the S. branch, on the 
rt. side of the principal tooth of rock 
rising between the Stockgron and Piz 
Mellen. The Stockgron (11,211') is 
easily reached from the plateau. 

There is no difficulty in going from 
Dissentis direct to the Maderaner Thai 
by the Brunni Gletscher. Its head is 
accessible from the head of Val Ca- 
vardiras by a snow col called Brunni 
Bass (8,875'), but much more directly 
by the Acletta Pass (8,977'), a little 
way SW. of the first, communicating 
with the head of Val Acletta due N. of 
Dissentis. By the latter course, taken 
by Mr. Sowerby in 1864, the new inn at 
Waldibalm is reached in 8^ hrs. The 
rope is requisite on the glacier. 

Route G. 

ILANZ, OR DISSENTIS, TO STACHEL- 
BERG, BY THE KISTEN PASS. 

This is a wild pass, presenting some 
very striking scenery, not to be at¬ 
tempted in bad weather, nor without 
a guide. It may be made in one day 
from Ilanz, but better from Brigels , 
where there is a tolerable Inn, and 
guides may be found for the pass. 

As mentioned in Rte. C, nearly one 
league from Ilanz, by Ruis, the road 
to Dissentis crosses a considerable 
stream, formed by the union of the tor¬ 
rents issuing from three alpine valleys. 
The most westerly and the largest of 
these torrents is the Flam. It has cut 
for itself a deep channel, much below 
the level of an irregular plateau cn its 
right bank, on which are numerous 
villages and hamlets. The chief of 
these is Brigels (4,272'), commanding 
fine views of the surrounding peaks 
and glaciers. From the side of Dis¬ 
sentis, Brigels is approached by a rough 
road, which mounts from near Trons, 
and passes by the village of Schlans. 

WNW. of Brigels rises the finely 
formed peak of the Brigelserhorn, or 
Piz Tumbif (10,555'), connected to the 
N. by a snowy ridge with the Piz 


Frisal (10,909') called in Glarus Biind- 
ncr Todi, which lies a little S. of the 
Biferten Stock (11,237'). Between a 
ridge running eastward from the Bri¬ 
gelserhorn towards the village of Bri¬ 
gels and the main chain is a very beauti¬ 
ful alpine glen, the Frisal Thai, closed at 
its upper end by the Frisal Glacier. 
The track to the Kisten Pass (8,281') 
goes at first NW. towards the Frisal 
Thai, then mounts nearly due N. by the 
liubi Alp, and finally, after passing on 
the 1. the Kistenstockli (9,020'), turns 
westward for the final ascent. The 
pass, commanded on the E. side by a 
massive projecting buttress of the Haus- 
stock, is a singularly wild spot. On 
the N. side, the Limmernbach torrent 
has cut a ravine of extraordinary depth 
through the limestones and slates of the 
Jurassic formation. It is mere cleft, 
utterly inaccessible to human foot. 
The Selbsanft, on the W. side (9,931'), 
and the ridge on the E. side, connecting 
the Hausstock with the Ruchi (10,226'), 
slope with extreme rapidity towards 
the abyss; and to avoid this perilous 
slope, the track, which is scarcely 
traceable, ascends on the right side 
(probably to near 9,000 ft.), and tra¬ 
verses for a considerable distance the 
neve of the Kisten Firn. The dreary 
Mutten See (7,786'), often frozen over 
even in summer, lying in a hollow be¬ 
tween the Ruchi and the Muttenalp- 
stock, is passed, and the usual way then 
descends to the chalets of the Limmern 
Alp. Very steep zigzags, at an ex¬ 
traordinary height above the chasm of 
the Limmernbach, lead down to the 
valley of the Linth, close to the Pan- 
tenbriicke, li hr. from Stachelberg 
(Rte. A). From 9 to 10 hrs. (?)are 
required to reach Stachelberg from 
Brigels, and an early start is advisable. 
A shorter way for descending to Sta¬ 
chelberg by the Trift Alp, avoiding the 
Pantenbriicke, is little used as it is con¬ 
sidered somewhat dangerous. 

The only known ascent of the Bifer¬ 
ten Stock, or Piz Bur gin (11,237'), was 
effected in 1863, by MM. A. Roth, G. 
Sand, and Raillard, guided by H, Elmer. 





ROUTE II. r—PANIXER TASS. 


223 


Keeping at first on the N. side of the 
ridge connecting the peak with the 
Kisten Pass, and then along narrow 
ledges on the face of the precipices 
overlooking the Frisal Thai, they 
reached the snowy arete in 3| hi s., and 
passing a projecting summit (11,037'), 
gained the peak in 50 min. more. The ex¬ 
pedition is of great interest, but requires 
minute local knowledge in the guide. 

The Selbsavft is reached without 
serious difficulty by descending from 
the Nuschenalp to the Limmernboden. 
There is a cave here, near the point 
where the Limmernbach issues from the 
Limmcrn Glacier , offering good shelter 
for the night. The Hinter Selbsavft , or 
Platxdva (9,921'), is more easily reached, 
and commands a much finer view than 
the Vorder Selbsanft (9,020'), conspi¬ 
cuous from Stachelberg. Herr Scheuch- 
zer, with the guide Leuzinger, effected 
the descent from a point N. of the sum¬ 
mit to the Tentiwang, near the Lower 
Sand Alp, through an extremely steep 
gully in the rocks. 


Route H. 


ILANZ TO ELM, IN THE SERNFT THAL, 
BY THE PANIXER PASS. 


P.inix 

Panixer Pass 
Elm . 


Stunden 
• 2 | 

. n 

. 


Eng. miles 

7 




8 21 $ 

This pass is sometimes traversed by 
mules; but in cloudy weather, or after 
fresh snow, a guide is required. It is 
inferior in scenery to the Segnes Pass 
(Rte. 1), but derives some interest from 
the passage of the Russian army under 
Suwarof in 1799. Like the rte. last 
described, the path to the Panixer Pass 
diverges from the high road close to 
Ruis, about one league above llanz; 
but instead of following the Flum, 
which drains the SW. flanks of the 
Hausstock, it mounts by the 1. bank of 
the Schmue torrent, which descends 
from the E. side of that group, to the 
hamlet of Pa nix (Inn: small, tolerable), 
passing through very beautiful wood¬ 


land and rock scenery. Panix stands 
4,265 ft. above the sea at the opening 
of a narrow glen, deeply cut into 
massive verrucano rocks. Numerous 
streams descend into it in picturesque 
waterfalls, through clefts which they 
have excavated for themselves. The 
path leading to the pass winds steeply 
up, keeping to the 1. bank of the tor¬ 
rent at some distance from the dark 
chasm through which this works its 
way, till the Panixer Alp is attained, 
which lies on a middle shelf of the val¬ 
ley. The torrent is crossed by large 
flags laid across its deep channel, here 
scarcely a yard wide, though formed 
by the union of three glacier streams. 
Leaving the Wichlen Glacier on the 1. 
hand, and crossing the stream from it, 
the way is for a while about due N., up 
a steep declivity of Jurassic limestone. 
Turning at last nearly due E., the path, 
in some places marked by poles, reaches 
the actual pass (7,907'), sometimes 
called Hexeneck (Witches’ Nook), in 
about 5^ hrs. from llanz. This is a 
savage, dreary spot, lying between a 
massive outlyer of the Hausstock on 
the W., and the Jdtzstock, one of the 
peaks of the Vorab group, on the op¬ 
posite side. The descent, after passing 
a small tarn, lies through a narrow 
ravine, in which the snow often rests 
throughout the summer, and then down 
a succession of huge steps, forming 
successive terraces of nummulitic lime¬ 
stone. The way is marked out by 
poles. The highest chalets are at the 
Jdtz Alp. Below these the path is 
rather better, until in 2 hrs. from the 
summit it enters the W. branch of 
the Sernft Thai, about hr. above 
Elm (Rte. K), From that point, instead 
of descending the valley to Elm, the 
traveller may reach the Baths of Sta¬ 
chelberg, by the Richetli Pass (Rte. M), 
in about 5 hrs. The day’s journey 
from llanz to Stachelberg, is, however, 
long and fatiguing—as much so, per¬ 
haps, as that over the Kisten Pass. The 
scenery of the Panixer is finer when the 
pass is taken from the Glarus side, as 
the views in the descent towards the 





224 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND, 

Vorder Rhein are much superior to [ 
those on the N. side. The most striking 
thing about this pass is the recollection 
of Suwarof’s extraordinary retreat in 
October 1799. Having advanced vic¬ 
toriously across the St. Gothard to 
Altorf, then forced to make the seem¬ 
ingly desperate passage of the Kinzig 
Culm to Glarus, the old warrior found 
himself, in a wintry season, with deep 
snow already fallen, before the alterna¬ 
tive of surrender to the greatly superior 
force of the French, or a retreat into 
the Grisons, across an alpine chain, 
then scarcely known except to some 
native hunter. He chose the Panixer 
as the least hopeless of the passes, and, 
in five days of mortal struggle and 
horrible suffering, led the remains of 
his army to Ilanz, on the 10th October. 
It was reckoned that one-third of the 
whole force perished in this memorable 
retreat. They fled, pierced by the 
bullets of the pursuing French, frozen 
to death on the snow, but most of all 
dashed to pieces in the chasms on either 
side of the pass, where their bones lay, 
for many a day, monuments of a period 
dear to some lovers of military glory. 


Route I. 

REICHENAU TO ELM, BY THE SEGNES 
PASS. 

This is a very interesting pass, and 
offers no difficulty in fine weather to a 
moderately-trained mountaineer. The 
way is in places not easy to find, and it 
is advisable to take a guide. The road 
from Reichenau to Flims (2^- hrs.) is 
described in Rte. A; and from thence 
to Elm is hrs’. good walking, but 
7 hrs. are commonly employed, the as¬ 
cent to the pass being 5,000 ft., or a 
little more, when the pass is made from 
Elm. 

For some distance above Flims the 
ascent lies through alpine pastures. 
From the highest of these, called Gas- 
sons, two different ways may be taken 


. § 27 . THE TODI DISTRICT. 

| to reach the pass. The easier of thd 
two lies to the 1., and traverses au 
ancient lake bed; the other, rougher, 
more difficult to find without a guide, 
but more interesting, keeps to the rt. 
along the foot of the Flimserstein, 
and ascends over rocks to the junction 
of two alpine torrents. That called 
Segnes Sura descends a little W. of S. 
from the Segnes Glacier. The other 
stream, called Segnes Sut, is fed by a 
small glacier bearing the name Flimser 
Firn, lying in a hollow between the 
Segneshorn and the Ofen. There is here 
a fine view of the singular range of shat¬ 
tered rocks that form the crest of the 
ridge connecting the Segneshorner 
with the Ofen. In one part this ridge, 
which is narrowed to a mere wall, is 
cut into strangely-shaped pinnacles 
and columns, called the Jungfrauen. 
Near to the Segneshorn the wall is 
cleft through, so as to leave a wide 
opening, which forms the pass ; while 
a little to the 1. it is actually perforated 
by the singular hole, or natural tunnel, 
well known to the people of Glarus as 
the Murtinsloch. On four days in the 
year the sun shines through it upon the 
village church of Elm. The ascent to 
the Martinsloch from the S. side is 
difficult, and the descent on the N. side 
still more so: it scarcely rewards the 
trouble and risk. 

In ascending to the Segnes Pass, the 
traveller follows the W. branch of the 
valley, or Segnes Sut, after jumping 
over the torrent of Segnes Sura, at a 
spot where it has worked for itself a 
deep narrow channel, and then con¬ 
tinues the ascent by rocks with snow- 
slopes intervening, until he reaches the 
breach, through which a wide view of 
the Glarus Alps is suddenly obtained. 
It is equally easy to cross the Flimser 
Firn, which, seen from above, looks 
flat as a frozen lake, and make the as¬ 
cent from thence to the Segnes Pass 
(8,612'). 

The Segneshorn, or Piz Segnes 
(10,870'), which overhangs the pass, is 
also known as the Tschingel, and the 
pass thence called the Tschingel Pass. 



ROUTE K. 


SERNFTHAL. 


225 


To the E. and 1\E. are the peaks en¬ 
closing the head of the Sardona Glacier, 
that descends into the head* of the 
Kalfeuserthal (Rte. K). 

A little below the Martinsloch, on the 
N. side, the botanist may gather Andro- 
sace Heerii, which has been found only 
in a few spots in this district. 

The descent towards Elm, following 
a direction but little N. of W., is steep 
but not difficult ; at first over debris 
with no marked path, so that in cloudy 
weather it would be easy to go astray. 
At length a stream is reached; this is 
followed till it falls into a more con¬ 
siderable torrent—the main branch of 
the Sernf, fed by the snows of the Ofen 
—and following this on its 1. bank, in 
less than an hour from the junction, a 
bridge is attained just above the village 
of Elm, on the rt. bank of the Sernf. 

The road from Glarus to Elm (new 
Inn, clean and comfortable, kept by 
Jacob Elmer), is described in Rte. K. 
Heinrich Elmer and Johann Elmer, 
hoth of Elm, are excellent guides for 
the entire range between this and the 
Todi. 

The geologist will find this pass very 
interesting. The rock forming the 
shattered ridge at the summit, whose 
singular forms attract the attention of 
every traveller, is exactly similar in 
appearance and mineral structure to 
the verrucano which underlies all the 
secondary stratified rocks in the valley 
of the Yorderrhein ; but it here rests 
upon the nummulitic (eocene) lime¬ 
stone. This post-eocene verrucano has 
been found in several other portions of 
the Todi chain, especially in the ridge 
of the Ringelspitz, at the head of the 
Bargiasthal. See Theobald’s work 
already cited. 


Route Iv. 

GLARUS TO RAGATZ, BY THE SERNF' 
TilAL AND SARDONA GLACIER. 


Schwanden 

Hours’ 

walking 

1? 

Eng. 

miles 

4 

Engi . 

• If 

Si 

Enn 

li 


Sardona Pass 

4 

8 

Vattis . 

6 

15 

Ragatz 

• 2i 



17 

4H 


This is one of the most interesting 
routes in this part of the Alps ; but, 
whichever pass be taken, it is by no 
means easy, and is fit only for practised 
mountaineers. As far as Elm there is 
a good char-road, and that place, which 
is the point of meeting of the paths 
from five passes here described, is one 
of the best head-quarters for a traveller 
in this part of Switzerland. 

The Sernfthal, sometimes called 
Ivleinthal to distinguish it from the 
main valley of the Linth, or Grossthal, 
joins the latter at Schwanden, about 
4 m. above Glarus (Rte. A). The road 
to Elm crosses the Linth above the 
junction of the two streams, and then 
passes the Sernf to its rt. bank. To 
the S. opens the tributary glen of the 
Niederbach, leading directly up to the 
K'drpfstock (9,180'), the highest summit 
of the Freiberge. It may probably be 
most easily accessible from this side. 

The lower part of the Sernfthal is 
contracted, but at Wart , where a torrent 
from the N. forms a pretty waterfall, it 
opens out. Goitre and cretinism are 
too common here, while the people of 
the head of the valley seem to be a 
healthy and vigorous race. 

Engi (2,540') stands at the junction 
of the Miihlethal with the Sernf. By 
that way a path leads due N. to the 
WiddersteinerFarke (6,608'?), a pass in 
the range dividing the Sernfthal from 
the L. of Wallenstadt. The pass over¬ 
looks the lakes at the head of the 
Murgthal, through which the village of 
Murg (Rte. C) is reached in 7 hrs. from 
Engi. Following the main branch of 
<4 


PART II. 






226 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 27 . THE TODI DISTRICT. 


the Miihlethal to the NE. is the track 
to Wallenstadt (Rte. L). 

On the 1. side of the Sernf about 
1 m. from Engi are the quarries of 
the Plattenberg , long known for the 
superior quality of slate there ex¬ 
tracted, and especially interesting to 
palaeontologists for its fine specimens 
of fossil fish, of which 41 species have 
been figured by Prof. Agassiz. More 
recently the same quarries have 
afforded a Chelonian reptile, and the 
skeleton of a bird. 

About 1^ m. beyond the Engi is 
Matt , at the opening of the Krauch- 
thal leading to the Rieseten Pass (Rte. 

L) . Here dwells, if still alive, Johann 
Maduz, a well-known guide, who ac¬ 
companied Prof. Ulrich in many of his 
expeditions in the Alps, and was the 
first man to reach the second pinnacle 
of Monte Rosa. The same obscure I 
village was the birthplace of Prof. 
Oswald Heer, the eminent naturalist. 
The road crosses to the 1. bank of the 
Sernf before reaching 

Elm (3,215'), the last village in the 
valley, with a good and reasonable Inn 
kept by Jacob Elmer—good beer. 
This is close to the meeting of the 
three main branches of the Sernf. The 
S\V. branch leads to the Panixer Pass 
(Rte. H), and the Richetli Pass (Rte. 

M) . The SE. branch is that leading 
to the Segnes and Sardona Passes ; 
while the third branch flows from the 
Unterthal, which mounts ENE. to the 
Ramin Pass (Rte. L). Until recently 
the only way known for reaching the 
Kalfeuserthal from Elm was by a very 
circuitous track, first crossing the 
Ramin Pass to the Weisstannenthal, 
and then traversing the mountain 
range separating that valley from the 
Kalfeuserthal. Two passes from Elm 
are now known, of which the first may 
bear the name Sardona Pass, the 
second that of Scheibe Pass. The 
Editor has been favoured with the 
following account of the way from 
Elm by the Sardona Pass from Mr. 
A. W. Moore, one of several travellers 
who traversed it in 1862. Another I 


party who subsequently passed this 
way without the assistance of a com¬ 
petent local guide were involved in 
considerable difficulties. 

‘ It is a walk of 10 hrs., exclusive of 
halts, from Elm to Vattis by this rte. 
Heinrich Elmer, of Elm, is the only 
man at that place who knows the way, 
and is a good guide, but demands a 
rather excessive sum for the expedi¬ 
tion. We gave him 17 fr. for going 
as far as the foot of the Sardona 
Glacier, beyond which a guide is 
under no circumstances required. The 
scenery of the Ivalfeuser Thai is seen 
to greater advantage in crossing from 
Elm to Vattis, than vice versa . 

‘ The usual rte. of the Segnes Pass 
is followed as far as the summit, 3^ 
hrs.’ sharp walking. 

‘Erom the Piz Segnes (10,870 ft.) 
run two spurs, one in a SW. direction, 
the other due S. The Segnes Pass 
crosses the former; in the angle 
between the two, is a curious patch of 
level glacier, locally known as the 
Elimser Eirn; and over the second 
ridge, which forms the 1. bank of the 
glacier, lies the rte. to the Sardona 
Glacier. Crossing the Flimser Eirn 
and scaling the rockv barrier on its 
opposite side by a rather steep snow- 
couloir close under the Piz Segnes, 
the col, a well-marked gap in the 
ridge, is reached in 50 min. from the 
Segnes Pass, which it overtops by 
about 500 ft. The traveller now sees, 
at a considerable depth below him, 
the level ice-stream of the Segnes 
Glacier, on to which it is necessary to 
descend by a snow-slope of formidable 
steepness, especially in its upper por¬ 
tion. Neither here nor on the glacier 
below should any of the recognised 
precautions be dispensed with, con¬ 
cealed crevasses being numerous. 
The Segnes and Sardona Glaciers are 
branches of the same field of neve; but 
the former flows S., the latter E., the 
angle between the two being occupied 
by the Triaserhorn (10,573'). To get 
from the Segnes on to the Sardona 
Glacier, it is necessary to traverse the 







ROUTE K.-SARDONA PASS. 


227 


former to its origin, a broad snow- 
grat, which is reached in 50 min, 
from the col. Here, the customary 
plan is to make for the centre of the 
Sardona Glacier, which is gently in¬ 
clined, and keep down it for 20 min., 
when the top of a ridge of rocks is 
gained which separates two of its 
branches. The arm of glacier on the 
rt. ends abruptly in the most extraor¬ 
dinary manner, in a perpendicular 
wall of blue ice, on the brink of a pre¬ 
cipice; but that on the left stretches 
farther down into the valley. On to 
this latter it is easy to descend, after 
keeping for 20 min. along the rocks, 
which are fearfully rotten and require 
great caution in passing. The glacier 
presents no difficulty, and in 10 min. 
the terminal moraine is reached. A 
steep and stony descent leads in half 
an hour to the level of the Kalfeuser 
Thai, where a track is soon found on 
the 1. bank of the stream, which con¬ 
ducts in 1 hr. more to the Sardona 
Alp. Looking from here towards the 
glacier it appears as if a still shorter 
and easier descent might be found, by 
turning sharp to the rt. from the snow- 
grat, and following the most southerly 
arm of the glacier under the Trinser- 
horn. It is a hot but lovely walk of 
2£ hrs. descending about due E. from 
the Sardona Alp to Viittis, along a 
good but ill-contrived path which rises 
and falls perpetually. The scenery 
improves as the valley is descended, 
and in the neighbourhood of, and 
below, the wretched little hamlet of St. 
Martin, attains its greatest perfection. 
At this place the path crosses to the 
rt. bank of the stream, which it follows 
to Viittis, passing for some distance 
through a magnificent forest, where the 
pines attain a height and symmetry 
rarely seen in the Alps. At Viittis, 
where the valley turns NNE., nearly 
at right angles to its former course, is 
a rough little Inn, where an omelette 
and some fair red wine can be had, 
and anyone wishing to cross the pass 
from this side could pass the night. 
It is a drive of 3 hrs. through pleasing 

Q 


scenery to Ragatz, but the distance 
might be walked in at least half an 
hour less time, as the char-road is ex¬ 
ecrable, and, though down the valley, 
rises the whole way until it reaches 
Pfiifers, only a short distance from 
Ragatz.’—[A. W. M.] 

For the way from Viittis to Ragatz, 
see Rte. N. 

The course above described involves 
the passage of three ridges diverging 
from the Segneshorn, of which the 
highest pass is not the gap in the 
southern ridge, mentioned by Mr. 
Moore, but the snow-saddle connect¬ 
ing the Segnes and Sardona Glaciers. 
This may best be named Sardona Pass, 
and pending more accurate measure¬ 
ment may be loosely estimated at 
9,500 ft. in height. This pass may be 
made from. Elims as well as from Elm. 
The Editor has received from Mr. 
J. G. Humphry notes of the passage 
from Viittis to Efims by a party of 
English travellers without a guide. 
They mounted by the S. bank of the 
Sardona Glacier, which seems not to 
have been touched till near the top. 
Owing to deep fresh snow, they em¬ 
ployed more than 13 hrs. exclusive of 
short halts. 

The second pass was first traversed 
by Mr. Stephen Winkworth, with J. B. 
Croz of Chamouni, and Heinrich Elmer 
of Elm. It lies on the N. side of the 
Segneshorn, at the origin of the range 
which extends through the Scheibe to 
the Grauehbrner. This course is much 
more direct than that above described; 
but the pass is higher, probably near 
10,000 ft. Being immediately S. of 
the Saurenstock (10,026'), it may best 
bear the name Sauren Joch. 

‘Leaving Elm at 2.50a.m. we fol¬ 
lowed the path to the Segnes Pass for 
about ^ hr., then turned to 1., climbing 
steeply through wood to the Ealziiber 
Alp. Above this is steep shale; then 
30 min. up a snow-couloir brought us 
to the top of the ridge between the 
Piz Segnes and the Scheibe (Sauren¬ 
stock ? Ed.) at 7.45. We descended 
to the Sardona Glacier by a rather 
2 





228 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 27 . THE TODI DISTRICT. 


steep ice-wall of perhaps 500 ft., then 
by a climb of 30 min. down rocks 
ending with a snow-couloir. The de¬ 
scent of the Sardona Glacier is quite 
easy. Heinrich Elmer guided us, and 
asked 20 fr. for the day’s work. He is 
a good guide, except on the ice, where 
he does not seem quite at home.’— 
[S.W.] 

From a brief note in the ‘ Alpine 
Journal,’ vol. i., p. 135, it appears 
that, some days before Mr. Wink- 
worth’s visit, a party consisting of 
Messrs. Awdry, Morshead, W. F. and 
A. Short, with two Valais guides, 
reached the ridge between the Piz 
Segnes and the Saurenstock, but did 
not descend on the E. side. 


Route L. 

GLARUS TO SARGANS EY THE 
SERNFTHAL. 

There are several passes by which a 
traveller may reach Sargans from the 
Sernfthal; whichever of them may be 
taken, he must be prepared for a rather 
long day’s walk. 

1. By the Ramin Pass. About 10 hrs., 
exclusive of halts, from Elm. From 
Elm (Rte. Iv), 4| hrs. from Glarus, a 
very rough path mounts through the 
so-called Unterthal to a pass on the 
NW. side of the Scheibe, called in¬ 
differently Ramin Pass, Ramin Furklc, 
or Ramin Grat, and also Foo Pass. It is 
but 6,772 ft. in height, and therefore the 
lowest of those leading to Elm. Nearly 
4 hrs. are required for the ascent from 
that place. The descent lies at first 
E. to the Ober Foo Alp. Hence there 
is a way scarcely traced, and not to be 
found without a guide, leading to the 
upper part of the Kalfeuser Thai. The 
patli to Sargans descends towards the 
NE. along the main stream by the 
Enter Siez Alp to the village of 
Weisstannen (3,642'), about 3^ hrs. 
from the pass. Here opens a narrow 
glen descending northwards from the 
range of the Grauehorner, whose highest 


summit, the Piz Sol (9,340'), lies SSEL 
of the village. The Seez torrent, formed 
by the union of the streams descending 
from the adjoining high mountains, 
flows through the Weisstannenthal, a 
silent, thickly-wooded valley, rarely 
trodden by strangers, through which a 
path leads in 2 hrs. down to Mels 
(Rte. C), near Sargans. If the tra¬ 
veller has arrived in time for the 
evening train, he may proceed from 
the Mels station on the one side to 
Wesen, or in the opposite direction to 
Ragatz or Coire. 

2. By Matt and the Rieseten Pass. 
3^ hrs. to Matt ; 9 hrs. (?) thence to 
Sargans.—The way from Elm just 
described is too long for a traveller 
starting from Glarus, and wishing to 
reach Sargans by the Weisstannen¬ 
thal. Nearly 2 hrs. may be saved by 
stopping at Matt in the Sernfthal 
(Rte. Iv), which may be reached by 
char, starting very early from Glarus, 
and then mounting through theK/auch- 
thal, opening due E. at that village. A 
path ascends by the rt. bank of the 
torrent for some distance, but crosses 
to the opposite side where that narrow 
valley bends abruptly to the N. A 
not very long ascent leads up to the 
Rieseten Pass (6,644'). The view is 
not equal to that from the Ramin Pass, 
being limited by the nearer mountains. 
The descent lies E. from the summit to 
the Ober Siez Alp, and so down to 
Weisstannen, reached in little more 
than 6 hrs., exclusive of halts from 
Matt. Through the upper end of the 
Ivrauchthal it is possible to traverse the 
ridge S. of the Spitzmeilen (8,218'), and 
join the track (next noticed) from Engi 
to Flums. 

3. By Engi and the Fliimserthal. 
3 hrs. to Engi; 7 hrs. (?) thence to 
Flums; hrs. from Flums to Sargans. 
—A steep ascent leads from Engi 
(Rte. Iv) to the first plateau of the 
Muhlethal. In about l£hr. the tra¬ 
veller reaches the junction of two 
torrents. The Widdersteinerbach de¬ 
scends about due S. from the col 
leading to the Murgthal, mentioned in 




ROUTE N.—KUNKELS PASS. 


229 


Rte. K. The other and more import¬ 
ant stream is the Miihlebach, and by 
following this to its head he gains the 
‘col between the Magern (8,294') and 
the Weissmeilen (?)’ leading to the 
Flumserthal; 4 hrs. are required (?) 
to reach the summit of the pass from 
Engi, and 3 hrs. suffice for the descent 
to Flums , one of the stations on the 
rly. from Wcsen to Coire, mentioned 
in Rte. C, about m. from Sargans. 

The Flumserthal, through which lies 
the path descending from this pass, is 
drained by the destructive torrent of 
the Schilzback, which, in the last cen¬ 
tury, almost completely destroyed the 
village of Flums. 

Further information respecting the 
passes mentioned in this Rte. is much 
desired. 


Route M. 

ELM TO STACHELBERG, BY THE 
RICHETLI PASS. 

hrs. exclusive of halts. 

This is an agreeable walk, which 
seems to connect the two places that 
afford the best head-quarters for moun¬ 
taineers in the Canton Glarus. A good 
walker may make the distance from 
Elm in 6 hrs.; but when the pass is 
taken from Stachelberg, which is more 
than 1,000 ft. lower, nearly 1 hr. more 
should be allowed. The char-road ex¬ 
tends up to the Sernfthal about 2 m. 
beyond Elm, and the path to the 
Richetli Pass is the same as that to 
Trons by the Panixer Pass (Rte. H) 
for 2 m. farther. Leaving that track 
which mounts to the S., the 1. bank of 
the Sernf is followed for 25 min. more, 
and the stream then crossed to the 
Wichlen Alp. Here the way lies due E. 
through a ravine between the Leiter- 
ierg to the S. and the Erbserstock on 
the N. ‘ At the top of this it enters on 
a level valley, apparently at some time 
the bed of" a lake, where stand the 
highest chalets, and from which the col 
is visible, to the S. ot the Ivalkstockli, a 


point at the extremity of a ridge run¬ 
ning down from the Karpfstock. In 
3 hrs. 25 m. from Elm we reached the 
col (7,52b ft.), which is very sharp, as 
the last 200 ft. on the E. side are very 
steep, and the ground falls away very 
rapidly for 1,500 or 2,000 ft. on the W. 
side into the Durnachthal. On entering 
the Durnachthal the path lies along 
the rt. bank of the stream till the 
second chalets on that side are reached, 

when it is better to cross the stream bv 

•> 

a path which zigzags to it through the 
wood just below the chalets, and which 
leads down the 1 bank into the Linth 
Thai just at the N. end of the village. 
We got to Stachelberg in 2jhrs. from 
the col.’ — [J. R. Iv.j In ascending 
from Stachelberg the usual course is to 
keep to the path on the rt. side of the 
Durnachthal. The ascent of the Kcirpf- 
stoch (9,180') might doubtless be com¬ 
bined with this pass. It is the high¬ 
est of the group of mountains lying 
between the Linth Thai and Sernfthal, 
and N. of the Richetli Pass, called 
Freiberge, because, with a view to the 
preservation of chamois and other game, 
shooting was strictly forbidden within 
certain fixed limits. Whether the law 
be repealed, or merely disregarded, it 
seems certain that the chamois enjoy 
no security of the kind anywhere in 
this canton, and they have become very 
scarce. 


Route N. 

reichenau to ragatz, by the 

KUNKELS PASS. 

As mentioned in the introduction to 
this section, the Ivunkels Pass sepa¬ 
rates the Calanda from the range of 
the Ringelspitz, with which it is oro- 
graphieallv as well as geologically con¬ 
nected. ft is not very interesting, and 
though but 4,432 ft. in height, the steep 
and stony path on the S. side is fatigti- 
ing and troublesome to ascend, and still 
more so if descended towards Reiche¬ 
nau. To the pedestrian who has seen 






ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 28 . SEXTIS DISTRICT. 


230 

Coirc it offers, however, a pleasant 
variation from the high road along the 
valley of the Rhine, and it may be 
taken in connection with a visit to the 
Baths of Pfiifers, or to the Kalfeuser 
Thai. Distance from Reichenau to the 
col 2 hrs., thence to Vattis 2 hrs., to 
Bad-Pfafers 2 hrs., Ragatz f hr. — in 
all, 6| hrs. 

Having followed the road from 
Reichenau to Tamins (Rte. A), the way 
lies nearly due N.; at first entering a 
gorge between precipitous rocks, and 
then winding up steep stony slopes that 
lead to the pass : 5 min. E. ot it is a 
point commanding a fine view of the 
Rhine valley. The descent on the N. 
side is easy ; at first through a beech 
Avood, then over meadows to Ivunkcls, 
and passing through pleasing scenery 
reaches Vattis, in the Kalfeuser T hal, in 
4 hrs. from Reichenau. From Yattis 
the traveller may either folloAv the 
char-road to the convent of Pfiifers, 
and thence descend by the Steige to 
the Baths, or he may follow a rather 
troublesome path along the 1. or W. 
bank of the Tamina (see Rte. C). 


SECTION 28 . 

SENTIS DISTRICT. 

The traveller Avho from any com¬ 
manding eminence gains a panoramic 
view of the N. and E. of SAvitzerland 
cannot fail to remark a detached group 
of mountains, having no apparent con¬ 
nection Avith any of the principal masses 
of the Alps, lying in the NE. angle of 
SAvitzerland, between the Lake of Con¬ 
stance, the Rhine, and the L. of Wal- 
lenstadt. When he is told that the 
highest snoAvy summit of this group is 
the Sentis, he learns about as much as 
most strangers know respecting an 
outlying portion of the Alps filling a 
triangular space, each side of which 
measures about 25 English miles. 

It is the district defined by the above 


limits that is described in the present 
section under the name Sentis District, 
derived from its highest and best 
known summit. The E. side of the 
triangle is formed by the mountains 
that overlook the 1. bank of the Rhine 
betAveen Sargans and the L. of Con¬ 
stance ; the S. side is marked by the 
bold range, including the Churfirsten, 
that is on the rt. of the traveller going 
by the L. of Wallenstadt from Sargans 
to Wesen and Uznach. To the NW. 
the mountains subside gradually into 
the Ioav hills that form the northern 
part of the Canton St. Gall. The 
greater part of the district belongs to 
that canton, but the upland valleys of 
the Sentis, and the highland tract 
OA'erlooking the L. of Constance, con¬ 
stitute the little Canton of Appenzell, 
completely enclosed within the territory 
of its Avealthier neighbour. 

The mountains belonging to this 
district are divided into two groups by 
the valley of the Thur, or Toggenburg, 
dividing the Sentis range to the N. 
from the southern range, Avhose best 
knoAvn summits are the Churfirsten. 
The highest peak of the Sentis attains 
8,215 ft., a height sufficient in this part 
of Switzerland to retain a considerable 
mass of permanent snorv. The highest 
points of the southern range do not lie 
in the Churfirsten, but in the range 
farther E., to the N. of Sargans, in¬ 
cluding the FauJfirst (7,916') and the 
Aimer (7,754'h 

This district is interesting to the geo¬ 
logist from its offering on a smaller 
scale the main features that characterise 
the greater groups of the Alps. 

The mountains here described, and 
especially the upland valleys of Ap¬ 
penzell, include a great (leal of charm¬ 
ing scenery. The scale is altogether 
smaller than that of the Pennine or 
Bernese Alps, and the objects of inter¬ 
est lie closer together, making this very 
eligible exercise-ground for moderate 
walkers Avho do not aim at laborious 
or difficult excursions. 

The people are yet to a great extent 
unspoilt by the influx of strangers. 




ROUTE A.—WINTERTHUR TO RORSCHACH. 


231 


The German visitors, who are nume¬ 
rous, content themselves with the 
rather rough, but clean, quarters 
found in the cheap country Inns, and 
to use the significant expression of a 
recent writer, ‘ das Land ist noch nicht 
verenglandert.’ Appenzell is the head¬ 
quarters of the Molkenkur, or goat’s 
whey cure, practised elsewhere in 
Switzerland, but nowhere on so large 
a scale as here. Many hundreds of 
Swiss and German visitors pass some 
weeks in the summer at one or other 
of the mountain villages hereafter 
named, in order to go through the 
prescribed course. The whey is con¬ 
veyed warm from the neighbouring 
chdlets, or Sennhiitten, and taken in 
the morning before breakfast, with a 
walk of 10 min. or £ hr. between each 
glass. The cure is believed to be very 
beneficial to persons with delicate chests, 
disordered digestion, &c. It may be 
supposed that pure air, regular living, 
and moderate exex*cise have a large 
share in the salutary results. 

For the mountaineer the best head¬ 
quarters are found at Appenzell and 
Weissbad, and at Wildhaus in Tog- 
genburg. 

English travellers approaching this 
and the adjoining parts of Switzerland 
commonly avail themselves of the 
Wurtemberg railway, mentioned in the 
Introduction, Art. n., passing by 
Heidelberg, Bruchsal, Stuttgart, and 
Ulm, and reaching the Lake of Con¬ 
stance at Friedrichshafen (Inns: Hotel 
Nestle, zum Schwan, by the Lake, good 
and reasonable ; Deutsches Haus, near 
the rly. station ; Kdnig von Wiirtem- 
berg ; Krone). Numerous steamers ply 
between that place and the other towns 
and villages on the lake. 

Those who approach the L. of Con¬ 
stance from Basle and Schaffhausen 
usually take the railway from the latter 
town to Constance (Inns : Heelit ; 
Adler — both highly recommended ; 
Badischer Hof ; Krone). This ancient 
imperial city, belonging to the Duchy 
of Baden, though standing on the S. 
side of the Rhine, where the river con¬ 


nects the main body of the Lake of 
Constance with its western extension— 
the Unter See, preserves many traces 
of its former importance. The cathe¬ 
dral, commenced in the eleventh cen¬ 
tury, is interesting to lovers of archi¬ 
tecture, and various memorials of the 
meeting of the famous council, and the 
execution of John Huss and Jerome of 
Prague, afford occupation to the sight¬ 
seer. Steamers start four or five times 
daily for Rorschach and other ports on 
the Lake. 


Route A. 


WINTERTHUR TO RORSCHACH, BY 
RAILWAY. 


Wyl . 

Eng. 

miles 

. . . 17* 

Flawyl 

91 

St. Gall . . 

8| 

Rorschach. 

10* 


~45* 


As those who wish to enter Appen¬ 
zell by a carriage-road usually approach 
from St. Gall, it seems most convenient 
to describe in the first place the rly. 
by which they ordinarily reach that 
town from Zurich or Schaffhausen, or 
else from Rorschach on the Lake of 
Constance. 

Winterthur (§ 27, Rte. C) is con¬ 
nected by rly. with Zurich and Schaff¬ 
hausen, and also with the branch to 
Romanshorn on the L. of Constance, a 
line of much commercial importance, 
but little frequented by tourists. From 
the same station diverges the line now 
described leading to Rorschach, and 
thence (Rte. C.) to Coire. 

On leaving Winterthur the rly. is 
carried about due E. through a fruitful 
but not very interesting country, gra¬ 
dually rising above the valley of the 
Toss. At Elyg (Inn : Ochs), 1,778 ft. 
above the sea, the rly. quits the Canton 
Zurich and enters that of Thurgau 
(Fr., Thurgovie), a fertile district ex¬ 
tending hence to the S shores of the 




232 


ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 28 . SENTIS DISTRICT. 


L. of Constance. About 9 m. farther 
it enters the Canton St. Gall at 

Wyl (Inns : zum Schonthal; Lowe), 
a thriving town above the 1. bank of the 
Thur. The road through the Toggen- 
burg (Rte. G) here diverges to the S. 
From the rly. station the higher sum¬ 
mits of the Sends are seen flanked to 
the rt. by those of the Churfirsten, and 
to the 1. by the distant mountains of 
the Vorarlberg. The rly. now bends 
somewhat to the S., and crosses the 
Thur by a long lattice bridge. The 
Canton St. Gall, now traversed, is a 
seat of much industrial activity. There 
are many cotton-mills, chiefly worked 
by water-power, and an extensive trade 
in embroidered and worked muslin. 
Beyond Flawyl (2.015') the rly. is 
carried over the Glattbach—not to be 
confounded with the stream so named 
near Zurich—by another lattice bridge 
nearly 100 ft. above the stream. A 
still finer bridge of the same kind tra¬ 
verses the Sitter about 8 m. from St. 
Gall, before reaching the Bruggcn sta¬ 
tion. It is 550 ft. long, and is sup¬ 
ported at a height of 222 ft. above the 
stream by three open-work columns of 
cast-iron. Through a deep cutting 
and a tunnel the rly. reaches the sta¬ 
tion for 

St. Gall (Inns: Ilecht, excellent, 
good cuisine, but not cheap, in the 
town ; Lowe, very good, near the rly. 
station ; Hirsch : second-rate houses 
are, Schwarze Bar ; Mohrli; Schiff, 
Linde), the chief town of the canton, 
standing 2,201 ft. above the sea. This 
is now a flourishing manufacturing 
town, the chief seat of the Swiss worked 
muslin trade ; but the ancient walls, 
though partly levelled, and some of the 
buildings, recall the very different con¬ 
dition of society under which it first 
acquired celebrity. The town grew up 
under the shadow of a famous abbey, 
founded in the 7th century on the spot 
where St. Gall, an Irish monk, who 
first preached the gospel and taught 
useful arts in this region, had built for 
himself a hermitage. During the dark 
ages the light of learning and civilisa¬ 


tion was kept alive here, and no small 
portion of the literature of Greece and 
Rome now known to us was preserved 
in the MSS. of the Abbey Library. 
With the increase of wealth and renown 
the spirit of the monks was turned 
to a less noble ambition. The ab¬ 
bots became secular princes, rising to 
importance under the favour of suc¬ 
ceeding emperors, and ultimately forced 
to yield their pretensions before the 
modern spirit of lay independence, 
until the abbey was finally suppressed 
in 1S05. 

The buildings now in existence are 
not of much interest. The Abbey 
church was modernised in the last cen¬ 
tury, and contains little to interest a 
stranger except a very fine organ, an 
ancient crypt, and some curious objects 
preserved in the Sacristy, or Custodie. 
The Abbey Library (Stiftsbibliothek), 
open from 9 to 12 on Mondays, 'Wed¬ 
nesdays, and Saturdays, still contains 
many very important MSS., including 
some of the earliest examples of the 
High German dialect, with copies of 
classical writers, one of which, a Virgil, 
is said to date from the 4th century. 

The Town Library contains many 
MSS. connected with the early history 
of the Reformation; and in the same 
building are collections of natural his¬ 
tory, coins, and pictures. 

The theatre, opened in 1855, is said 
to be the finest in Switzerland. There 
are many cafes, and rooms where beer 
and wine are served to customers. The 
best beer is said to be had at a build¬ 
ing called Walhalla, close to the rly. 
station. 

There are many pretty walks in the 
neighbourhood. The most frequented 
is that to the Freudenberg (2,871'), 
reached on foot in ^ hr. from the town, 
or | hr. by road, with an Inn on the 
top. The L. of Constance and the 
Appenzell mountains are well seen. 
A more extensive view of the Sentis 
range is gained from the Frohlichsegg, 
fully 1 hr. S. of the town. The best 
view of the lake is from a hill called 
Peter und Paul, 1 hr. N. of the town. 






ROUTE B. — UZNACn TO ST. GALL. 


233 


The longer excursions are noticed in 
the following Rtes. 

The hilly ground over which the rly. 
is carried from St. Gall to Rorschach 
must have caused a heavy expenditure 
for cuttings, tunnels, and embankments, 
which are traversed in rapid succes¬ 
sion. After 3 or 4. m. the L. of Con¬ 
stance, with the hills of Suabia in the 
distance, comes into view, and the trains 
descend nearly 900 ft. before reach¬ 
ing the station at Rorschach (Inns: 
Krone ; Hirsch—both good and reason¬ 
able ; Seehof; Schiff; Griiner Baum; 
Schweizerhof; Helvetia, &c.). This is 
the principal Swiss port on the lake, a 
place of considerable trade, and is fre¬ 
quented for the sake of lake-bathing in 
summer. There is a new hotel bathing 
establishment—Kur- und Bad-Anstalt 
Horn—well spoken of, very near the 
town. Omnibuses to tbe rlv. station. 
The chief walks for visitors are to the 
Mariaherg, now a school, once an ap¬ 
purtenance of the Abbey of St. Gall. 
20 min. higher up, on a projecting rock, 
is the Castle of St. Anne, nearly a com¬ 
plete ruin. Still higher, and § hr. farther, 
is the Rossbiihel, a hill commanding a 
view of the entire lake. Nearer to 
Rorschach is the vineyard producing 
the Markgriifler wine, much esteemed 
in this part of Switzerland. 

The Lake of Constance (Germ. Bo¬ 
densee) is, next to the L. of Geneva, the 
largest of the alpine lakes. It is 41 m. 
long from Ludwigshafen to Bregenz, 
and throughout a great part of its 
length varies from 4^- to m. in 
breadth. The NW. end from Meers- 
burg to Ludwigshafen is comparatively 
narrow. At Constance the lake is con¬ 
tracted to the dimensions of a river, 
with a manifest current, but opens out 
again to the W. in the CJnter See, which 
is in truth a separate lake. Its mean 
height above the sea is 1,306 ft., but in 
spring the waters stand several ft. above 
the ordinary level. The greatest depth 
hitherto measured is 1,027 ft. The E. 
end between Rorschach and Lindau is 
said to be fast filling up, owing to the 
deposit of sediment from the Rhine. 


Route B. 


UZNACH TO ST. GALL. 



Post 

Stumien 

Eng. 

miles 

Lichtensteig. 

. 3f 

n* 

Peterzell 


r.f 

Herisau 

. 4 

9f 

St. Gall 

if 

ii 

H 

33 


The Rte. here described is a very 
agreeable way for persons approaching 
the Canton of Appenzell from Zurich 
or Glarus who prefer a carriage-road 
through pleasing scenery to the circuit 
by railway. 

From Uznach (§ 27, Rte. C), one of 
the principal stations on the rly. from 
Zurich to Coire, a road crosses the 
hilly tract that divides the valley 
of the Thur (Toggenburg) from the 
Lakes of Zurich and Wallenstadt. 
Fine views recur at many points where 
the road attains the crest of a ridge. 
The first of these is at Bildhaus, where 
there is a roadside Inn, about 4 m. 
from Uznach. Still more extensive is 
that from a second and higher ridge 
called Hiimmelwald. After passing the 
village of that name, the road descends 
to Wattwyl (Inns: Lowe, Rossli), a 
large straggling village on the Thur 
(Rte. G ). The post station is here, 
and not at the adjoining town of 

Lichtensteig (Inn: Krone), whose 
ancient battlements have a very pic¬ 
turesque aspect. It is connected with 
Wattwyl by an almost continuous line 
of houses along the road on the rt. bank 
of the Thur, . The road here quits the 
Thur, and mounts in zigzags the hill to 
the E., near the summit of which are 
some remains, not seen from the road, 
of the ancient Castle of Neu Toggen¬ 
burg. A solitary inn stands at the 
top, called Wasserfluh. Owing to the 
windings of the road, a foot-passenger 
following the short cuts may reach 
Peterzell (2,313') in less time than a 
carriage. The position of this village 
in the valley of the Neckar is very 
pleasing. The road now mounts 
through green meadows along the ru 





234 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 28 . SENTIS DISTRICT. 


bank of a tributary of the Neckar, 
passing Schonengrund (2,772'), with an 
Inn (Krone), where it enters Appenzell. 
After traversing a pass amidst the hills, 
the traveller descends to Waldstatt , 
where there are baths of no great re¬ 
pute, and thence to the extremely 
picturesque manufacturing village of 
Herisau (Inns: Lowe, Hecht), the most 
populous and thriving place in Appen¬ 
zell. Less than 1 m. distant is Hein- 
richsbad , one of the most frequented 
watering-places in Switzerland. Be¬ 
sides the mineral waters, goats’ whey 
and asses’ milk are supplied to patients, 
and a cow-house is fitted up for persons 
with delicate lungs. The establishment 
is said to be well kept, and there are 
many pretty walks near at hand. The 
road from Herisau to St. Gall (Rte. A) 
passes close to the fine railway bridge 
over the Sitter, which well deserves 
examination. 


Route C. 

RORSCHACH TO SARGANS AND COIRE, 
BY RAILWAY. 


Rheineck . 




Eng. 

miles 

Altstadten 




. I0i 

Haag. 




. 13* 

Sevelen 





Sargans 





Coire . 




* Jfi 





58| 


The same causes that in the middle 
ages made the shores of the L. of Con¬ 
stance, then called the Suabian Sea, the 
main channel for trade between Ger¬ 
many and the shores of the Mediter¬ 
ranean, seem likely to recall commercial 
intercourse to the same direction, from 
which it had for a time been diverted 
by political events. The force of facts 
will doubtless overcome local opposi¬ 
tion and rivalry, and there can be little 
doubt but that the main line of railway 
between Italy and the north will be 


carried to the shores of the L. of Con¬ 
stance through the valley of the Rhine, 
most probably reaching Coire through 

the vallev of the Vorder Rhein. The 
%/ 

N. and E. shores of the lake are di¬ 
vided between the four principal states 
of S- Germany — Austria, Bavaria, 
Wurtemburg, and Baden; and this has 
doubtless delayed the construction of a 
railway connecting Rorschach and the 
valley of the Rhine with the ports be¬ 
longing to those states, which would 
enable passengers and merchandise to 
pass directly from Coire to Munich, 
or Stuttgart, by the railways now 
open fromLindau and Friedriehshafen. 
Meanwhile the chief stream of traffic 
passes by Rorschach and the rly., now 
to be described, leading thence to 
Coire. 

For about 3 m. from Rorschach the 
rly. runs along the shore of the lake, 
passing on the rt. the Castle of AVart- 
egg, belonging to the ex-Duchess of 
Parma. On reaching the delta of the 
Rhine, a wide tract producing much 
maize and intermittent fever, the rly 
bears to the rt. away from the lake to 
like meek (Inns : Hecht, dear ; Ochs), 
on the 1. bank of the Rhine, and about 
3 m. from the projecting point of gravel 
where it flows into the lake. Not far off 
is the Castle of Weinburg, belonging 
to Prince Kohenzollern Sigmaringen, 
commanding, from the adjoining park, 
fine views of the lake and the moun¬ 
tains above Bregenz. A still finer view, 
said to include ninety-two villages, is 
gained from Walzenhausen,\ hr. distant, 
whence the traveller may descend in 
the same time to the St. Margarethen 
station, lying 2-^ m. beyond Rheineck, 
and close to a ferry over the Rhine, 
leading to the opposite, Austrian, bank 
of the river, and to Bregenz (§ 34, Rte. 
A). This is the true opening of the 
valley of the Rhine, which is now seen 
to the SSW., with the peaks of the 
Rhaetikon Alps in the background; 
from some points in the valley the Ca- 
landa and the Grauehorner—more than 
50 m. from the spectator—close the 
view. 







ROUTE D.—RORSCHACH TO WEISSBAD. 235 


The rlv. bears to SW. along the base 
of the hills to Altstiidten (Inns : Drei 
Ivonige, with an omnibus to rly. station, 
and carriages and horses to Trogen, 
Gais, and Appenzell; Freihof; Lowe ; 
Rossli), prettily situated in a fine part 
of the Rhine valley, at the junction of 
the roads leading to Trogen and Ap¬ 
penzell (Rte. E). The rly. now turns 
due S. In front is seen the opening of 
the valley of the Ill, through which the 
road of the Arlberg (§ 34, Rte. A) 
leads from Feldkirch to the Tyrol. The 
fine peaks of the Sulzfluh (9,324'), 
Drusen/tuh (9,298'), and Scesa Plana 
(9,73S') are conspicuous in the ridge 
dividing the Praettigau from the Ill. 

At the Oberried station those who 
are bound for the Kamor Pass (Rte. F) 
leave the train, which now proceeds 
nearly in a straight line SSW., passing 
the stations of Riiti and Salez. On the 
E. side of the river is the Austrian 
town of Feldkirch. The Haag station 
is opposite to a depression in the range 
on the rt., marking the division between 
the Sentis and Churfirsten ranges. 
Here the road from Wildhaus to Tog- 
genburg (Rte. G) descends into the 
Rhine valley. This portion of the 
valley is flat and marshy, being exposed 
to frequent inundations from the rise of 
the river. The Bucks station is near to 
the Castle of Werdenberg, the scat of a 
famous family, now extinct, who bore 
that name. The present owners allow 
it to be seen by strangers. Bearing 
somewhat E. of S., the rly. passes op¬ 
posite Vaduz (§ 34, Rte. *C), the chief 
place of the little principality of Lich¬ 
tenstein on the E. side of the Rhine, 
and soon reaches Sevelen, at the foot of 
the Alvier (7,754'), the summit of which 
may be reached in 4 hrs. About 2 m. 
farther the valley bends to SW., and 
before long reaches Triibbach (Inn: 
Krone, good), the most convenient point 
for the ascent of the Gonzen, which 
may, however, be also reached from 

Sargans (Inns : Lowe; Rossli.) The 
village is a few minutes' walk from the 
rly. junction station, where the line from 
Zurich or Winterthur by Wesen (§ 27, 


Rte. C) joins that from Rorschach tc 
Co ire. 

The Gonzen (6,014'), immediately 
N. of Sargans, is a promontory from 
the range whose highest summits are 
the Faulfirst and the Alvier. The 
mountain is chiefly known for the mine 
of rich iron ore, worked for many cen¬ 
turies, some say by the Romans, and 
still very productive. A bridle-path, 
passing by the old Castle of Sargans, 
and mounting through a beech wood, 
leads to the mine, to which admission 
is given by tickets issued at the smelt¬ 
ing works near Plons, 2 m. from Sar¬ 
gans. It is well worth while to ascend 
to the summit of the mountain, com¬ 
manding a very interesting view. The 
most prominent object is the fine peak 
of the Falknis (8,338') on the opposite 
side of the Rhine, backed by the higher 
peaks of the Scesa Plana, and the Sil- 
vretta Alps, at the head of the Praetti¬ 
gau. The ascent from the mines to the 
summit of the mountain is not easy for 
unpractised climbers, as it is in part 
effected by ladders fixed to the face of 
a rocky precipice. There is a much 
easier way from Triibbach, mentioned 
above. 

The rly. from Sargans to Ragatz and 
Coire is described in § 27, Rte. C. 


Route D. 

RORSCHACH TO TROGEN, GAIS, ArfEN- 


ZELL, AND 

WEISSBAD. 



Hours’ 

Eng. 


walking 

miles 

Heiden . 

If 

5 

Trogen . 

If 

b 

Gais . . 

2 

6 

Appenzell 

If 

js 

Weissbad 

Of 


1 

r 

22 


Omnibus daily from Rorschach to Heiden, 
and diligence between Heiden and St. Gall. 

The way here described is the best 
for a traveller arriving from the N., and 
wishing in a short excursion to see the 
chief places of interest in Appenzell. 





236 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. 


§ 28 . SENTIS DISTRICT. 


The main roads traversing the canton 
from W. to E., at rt. angles to the 
direction here indicated, are noticed in 
the following Rtes. 

The small Canton of Appenzell is 
divided into two nearly independent 
sections ; the Northern, called Ausser 
Rhoden, chiefly inhabited by Protes¬ 
tants ; the Southern—Inner Rhoden— 
exclusively Roman Catholic. This 
naturally produces some marked con¬ 
trasts ; but in both divisions the 
stranger finds more simplicity of man¬ 
ners, and less thirst for gain, than is 
common in other parts of Switzerland. 
The hills—for they scarcely exceed 
4,000 ft. in height—of the northern 
part of the canton are so easy of access 
that the stranger has a choice of many 
different paths; and the excellent cus¬ 
tom prevails of placing finger-posts at 
the meeting of paths, so that, even with¬ 
out a guide, there is rarely any difficulty 
in finding the right Avay. The road 
from Rorschach to Heiden mounts a 
long hill to Wienachter-eck, Avhere 
flags are quarried on a large scale, and 
sent to Germany and Holland. The 
village of Grid) is divided into two dis¬ 
tinct hamlets—the one Catholic, the 
other Protestant. At the latter a road 
turns to the E. and leads to 

Heiden (Inns. Freyhof, a large esta¬ 
blishment, Avith reading-room, good 
and cheap, rooms from 7 fr. to 12 fr. 
a week ; Lowe, stnaller and cheaper ; 
Schweizerhof ; KAone ; Linde), one of 
the places most frequented for the 
Molkenkur. Standing about 2,600 ft. 
above the sea, it enjoys good air and 
some pretty Avalks in the neighbourhood, 
but it is not comparable for the beauty 
of the adjoining scenery to other places 
mentioned below. The village is ucav, 
having been rebuilt since a destructive 
fire in 1838. The Chapel of St. An¬ 
thony, 1 5 - hr. from Heiden, on the sum¬ 
mit of the ridge o\ r erlooking the valley 
of the Rhine, commands a very exten¬ 
sive view. It may be taken in the Avay 
from Heiden to Altstiidten. The pedes¬ 
trian who does not care to visit Heiden 
may take a direct course from Rcformirt 


Grub to Trogen by the ridge of the 
Kaien (3,668'). The summit commands 
a noble panoramic view. It may also 
be reached from Heiden in 1 ^ hr. The 
char-road from Heiden passes along the 
S. side of the Kaien for about 3 m. to 
Wald, and then becomes more pictur¬ 
esque as it traverses a deep ravine and 
some fine Avood before reaching 

Troyen ( Inns : Schafli; Krone ; 
Lowe), a clean and pretty village, the 
chief place of Appenzell Ausser Rho¬ 
den. Though worth seeing as a fa¬ 
vourable specimen of a thriving Swiss 
village, it does not contain much that 
need detain a stranger. The char-road 
hence to Gais is rough and circuitous, 
but passes through picturesque scenery, 
Avith here and there some fine distant 
vieivs. After mounting a ridge called 
Weisseck, it descends rather steeply to 
SW. through a glen to Bidder, on one 
road from St. Gall to Altstiitten (Rte. 
E). That road is noAv followed to SE. 
It mounts along the mountain stream 
called Rolhbach, and after leaving to rt. 
the road to Appenzell, in ^ m. farther 
reaches 

Gais (Inns: Ochs ; Krone ; Lamm— 
all clean and reasonable), an extremely 
pretty village, with Avooden houses 
scattered amidst the fields, in many of 
Avhich lodgings are let in the summer 
season. This is the most frequented 
of the Appenzell Avatering, or rather 
milk-drinking, places. Pedestrians 
usually take the mountain called Gdbris 
(4,119') on the Avay between this place 
and Trogen. The inn (zum Gemslc) 
first built on the ridge Avas not suffi¬ 
ciently clear of forest to command a 
remarkable vieAV ; another more com¬ 
fortable establishment has been lately 
opened on a point unencumbered by 
trees, Avhence is gained a Avide pano¬ 
rama of the Alps of NE. Switzerland. 
The Avay from Trogen over the moun¬ 
tain takes no more time than the detour 
by char-road. 

The road from Gais to Appenzell 
returns tOAvards Biihler for about ^ m., 
and then turns to the 1 . and descends 
about 3 m. along an affluent of the 



ROUTE D.—EXCURSIONS FROM WEISSBAD. 


237 


Sitter, which latter stream is crossed on 
reaching the village of 

Appenzell (Inns: Hecht; Adler; 
Lowe), the chief place of the Inner 
Rhoden division of the canton, and 
one of the favourite places for the Molk • 
enkur. Lying in a rather deep valley, 
2,553 ft. above the sea, the higher 
mountains to the S. present themselves 
in more striking aspect than from the 
neighbourhood of Gais or Hciden. In 
a building called the Archiv are the 
banners wrested by the Appenzellers in 
the 15th and 16th centuries from the 
Austrians, Tyrolese, Genoese, and Ve¬ 
netians. The mountaineer will prefer 
to fix his head-quarters at 

Weissbad (2,690'), f hr. SE. from 
Appenzell. The only inn and Mol- 
kenkurhaus here is rougher and less 
comfortable than those at Appenzell 
and Gais, but the traveller will find 
cleanliness, attention, and tolerable 
food. When the house is full, as 
sometimes happens, he may go ^ hr. 
farther, to the village of Scltwendi, 
where there is a rough country Inn. 

The baths at Weissbad are supplied 
with water that seems to contain no 
mineral ingredients, but its free use 
externally as well as internally may not 
on that account be less salutary to 
those unaccustomed to the application. 

The position of Weissbad is admi¬ 
rably suited for excursions, most of 
them within the reach of very moderate 
walkers. Three mountain torrents— 
Weissbach, Schwendibach , and Briihl- 
bach —flowing from three parallel glens 
lying between the ridges of the Sends, 
unite at Weissbad, and each of them 
may form the object of a pleasant walk 
from the Baths. 

The favourite expedition is to the 
Wildhirchli , on the slopes above the 
1. bank of the Schwendibach. The 
way lies by Tribern and the Bodmen 
Alp; in lg- hr. the traveller reaches 
the base of some vertical rocks, where 
a little Inn (zum Aescher) clings to 
the face of the rock-wall. A narrow 
but safe path leads to the first cave, 
which, some 200 years ago, was fitted 


upas a chapel dedicated to St.Michael. 
It stands 4,924 ft. above the sea. A few 
steps farther is a second cavern, which 
long served as the dwelling of a hermit. 
The last of these perished a few years 
ago by accidentally falling over the 
precipice near at hand. Refreshments 
are now offered for sale here by a 
native speculator. The cave is con¬ 
nected with a long subterranean pas¬ 
sage through the rock, which opens 
abruptly by a door at the upper end 
upon the beautiful mountain pasture 
called Ebenalp, lying about 5,400 ft. 
above the sea, on a shelf of the moun¬ 
tain above the precipitous rocks of the 
Wildkirchli, and commanding a beau¬ 
tiful view of the surrounding country. 
Among other rare plants found here is 
Willemetia apargioidcs. Instead of re¬ 
turning the same way, the pedestrian 
may now ascend the Schiifler (6,227'), 
then descend to the Alten Alp, and 
return to Weissbad along the Schwen¬ 
dibach. For the latter part of the 
excursion it is expedient to take a 
guide, but this is quite unnecessary if 
the walk be limited to the Wildkirchli. 
It is also possible to cross the ridge 
NW. of the Ebenalp, and descend to a 
pretty waterfall called Leucnfall, re¬ 
turning thence in hr. to Weissbad. 
The latter is one of the sights frequented 
by visitors. The Kronberg (5,381') is 
a fine point, which may be reached 
in about 2 hrs. E. of Weissbad, but 
more easily from Gonten (Rte. H). 
The Kamor and Hohcn Kasten, as well 
as several other interesting excursions 
mentioned in the following Rtes., may 
be easily reached in a day’s walk from 
Weissbad. 

The main object of attraction in this 
neighbourhood to a mountaineer is the 
Sentis, and the surrounding peaks. 
The name of the mountain is often 
written Santis, but the common ortho¬ 
graphy, which corresponds to the 
pronunciation, is here followed. The 
name is sometimes given to the entire 
group of high peaks lying between the 
sources of the Sitter and the Toggen- 
burg valley, to which the collective 



238 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 28 . SEN'lIS DISTRICT. 


name Alpstein is also applied. The 
highest peak, sometimes called for 
distinction Hoh Sentis, and sometimes 
Gross Messmer, is reached in 6 or 7 
hrs. from Weissbad; the charge for a 
guide is only 5 fr. The easiest way is 
by the glen of the Schwendibach, rising 
above the rt. bank to the Hiitten Alp, 
and then by a path along the precipitous 
rocks of the Marwies and the Gloggeren, 
overlooking a small lake on the rt., 
till in 3 hrs. from Weissbad the Meglis 
Alp (4,855') is reached. Here are 
chalets where very fair quarters are 
found for the night by those who 
would reach the summit early. A 
botanist or geologist will find abun¬ 
dant occupation here for a stay of 
several hrs. The nummulitic lime¬ 
stone abounds in marine fossils, and fine 
specimens may be easily extracted. 
The track is now scarcely traced. 
After climbing over aefiris to a hollow 
called Milchgrube, where snow lies 
during the summer, the way, which had 
hitherto lain to SW., bears nearly due 
W. On reaching a depression in the 
ridge of the mountain, called Iiinter 
Wagenliicke, a fine view to the N. 
rewards the traveller. Here begins the 
extensive field of neve that stretches 
up to the last rocks ; when these are 
reached, a stifF scramble of a few min. 
suffices to attain the highest peak, 8,215 
ft. above the sea. As may be supposed 
from the isolated position of this 
summit, the alpine panorama is vast, 
and especially interesting to those who 
would study the topography of E. 
Switzerland. 

Another way from Weissbad, said 
to be rather more difficult, keeps along 
the stream of the Schwendibach to the 
little lake called Seealpsee,then mounts 
by the 1. bank of the torrent to the 
Oehrli, and thence reaches the E. base 
of the great snow-slope near the 
Wagenliicke. It is possible to descend 
from the Wagenliicke to Wildhaus or 
to Alt St. Johann (Rte. G) in the 
Toggenburg: for this expedition a 
guide is indispensable. The northern \ 
and lower peak of the Sentis is called 


Gyrenspitz , from the belief that the 
great vulture of the Alps—liimmergeyer 
—builds there. There have been some 
accidents on this mountain. A servant 
accompanying a Swiss engineer was 
struck dead by lightning in 1832, and 
his master severely injured. In 1801, 
Prof. Jetzeler of Sehaffhausen was 
killed by falling from the rocks. 

The Alte Mann (7,987'), the second 
in height of the Sentis group, may be 
reached from the pass leading by the 
Kray Alp to Wildhaus (Rte. L). 


Route E. 

ST. GALL TO ALTSTADTEN. 

Two carriage-roads lead from St. Gall 
to Aitstadten, traversing the Canton 
Appenzell: the first is the shorter, but 
the second is on the whole more 
interesting. 

1. By Trogen. 6 m. to Trogen—6 
m. thence to Aitstadten. 

The road to Trogen mounts due E. 
from St. Gall along the S. base of the 
Freudenberg (Rte. A), passing the 
Convent of Notkersegg and the Inn of 
Kursegg, and in about 3^- m. reaches 
the ridge of the Vogelisegy, a hill com¬ 
manding a beautiful view of the Alps 
and the L. of Constance. There is a 
good country Inn (zur Taube) at the 
top, near the high road. The ground 
is memorable for one of the early 
victories of the Appenzell mountaineers 
over the regular forces sent against 
them by the Abbot of St. Gall. A 
short descent from the summit leads 
to Speicher (Inn: Lowe), a thriving 
prettily-situated village; thence is but 
1^ m. to Trogen (Rte. D). A good 
road leads from Trogen to Altstkdten 
(Rte. C), passing the ridge called 
Ruppen , whence there is a fine Hew of 
the Rhine valley. Omnibuses ply 
between Speicher and Trogen and the 
rly. station at Aitstadten. 

2 . By Gais. 8{ m. to Gais—5} m. 
thence to Aitstadten. A good new 






KOUTE F.—SAXEP. LUCRE. 


239 


road mounts about due S. from St. 
Gall by the W. side of the Bernegg, 
passing all the way amidst charming 
scenery. The old road over the Teu- 
feregg is 1 m. shorter, but fit only 
for pedestrians. In 4 m. by the new 
road the traveller reaches Teufen 
(Inn: Hecht), one of the most at¬ 
tractive of the Appenzell industrial 
villages (2,742'). Just outside the 
village is an Inn (zum Linde) fre¬ 
quented for the Molkenkur. 

A short descent leads from Teufen 
to the rt. bank of the Rothbach. Here 
a path bearing a little E. of S. leads 
in hr. to Appenzell. The road 
asceuds the valley to Biihler (Inns: 
Bar, Hirsch), another prosperous 
village. A pretty fall of the Rothbach 
is passed on the rt. before reaching 
the point where the road to Appenzell 
(Ilte. D) turns to the rt., ^ m. from 
Gais. 

The road from Gais to Altstadten 
mounts gently to the ridge of the 
Stoss, and from the summit gains a 
very fine view over the Rhine and the 
Vorarlberg mountains. The chapel 
that marks the summit of the ridge 
(3,117') commemorates the surprising 
victory gained in 1405 by 400 Appen- 
zellers, under Rudolph of Werdenberg, 
over an Austrian force more than ten 
times their number. The appearance 
of the women cf Gais, dressed and 
armed as men, is said to have decided 
the conflict wherein the victors lost 
20, and the defeated army 900 men. 
Altstadten i3 reached in about 4 m. 
from the summit of the ridge. 


Route E. 

WEISSBAD TO THE VALLEY OF THE 
RHINE. 

There are several ways by which a 
traveller can reach the Valley of the 
Rhine from Weissbad or Appenzell. 
The shortest and easiest, but the least 
interesting, of these is by Egyerstanden. 


By that way the Oberried station is 
reached in less than 3 hrs. from Appen¬ 
zell or Weissbad. Ear more interesting 
are either of the two ways here de¬ 
scribed. 

1. To Riiti, by the Kamor. 3j hrs.; or 
4 hrs. to Oberried. 

Passing the village of Briillisau, a 
path mounts from Weissbad somewhat 
S. of E. to a depression in the ridge 
connecting the Kamorspitze (5,748') 
with the Hohe Kasten (5,902'). The 
Kamor Pass, reached in 2 hrs., is about 
5,300 ft. in height. It commands an 
extensive view, but this is much im¬ 
proved by ascending either of the 
above-named summits, both of which 
are easy of access even to ladies. The 
Hohe Kasten has been called the Rigi 
of Appenzell, and though it has no pre¬ 
tensions to rival the view from that 
famous mountain, is yet well deserving 
of a visit. There h a tolerable moun¬ 
tain Inn near the top, which may be 
reached in 2^ hrs. from Weissbad. 

The descent from the pass into the 
Valiev of the Rhine may be made in 
1^- hr. nearly direct to Riiti. The short 
way lies over slippery grass slopes 
requiring caution. The more fre¬ 
quented track makes a long detour to 
the NE. before descending to Oberried, 
reached in about 4 hrs. from Weissbad. 
At Weissbad the name Kasten is some¬ 
times given to this pass, and another, 
rather lower, pass on the N. side of the 
Kamorspitz is called Kamor. 

2. To Haag, by the Saxer Liicke, 
7 hrs., exclusive of halts. A guide is 
needed as the path is scarcely traced. 
As far as the Fahlensee the way is that 
followed in going from Weissbad to 
Wildhaus in Toggenburg, described in 
Rte. L. Leaving the track that mounts 
SW. to the Kray Alp, the way to the 
Rhcinthal bears to the 1., at first S-, 
and then SE. to the Saxer Liicke, or 
Krinne (5,630'), a gap in the ridge 
overlooking the Rhine. About 4 hrs, 
are required to reach this point from 
Weissbad. The descent into the Rhine 
valley lies over alpine pastures, which 
give place to cultivation as the tra- 



240 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 28 . SENTIS DISTRICT. 


veller in 2 hrs. from the pass reaches 
Sax , a village about 3 m. from the 
Haag Station on the rlv. between Rors¬ 
chach and Coire (Rte. C). 


Route G. 

WTL TO SARGANS, BY THE TOGGENBURG. 


Wattwyl . 

Post 
Stunden 
. 4 

Eng. 
miles 
l o 

Nesslau . . 

. 3 

*9 

Alt St. Johana 

. 2 | 

n 

Wildhaus 

. 1 

3 

Haag 

. 3 

9 

Sargans (by rail) 

• 

13 


171 

53| 


The upper valley of the Thur, known 
in this part of Switzerland as the 
Toggenburg, is a wide trough between 
the Sentis and Churfirsten mountains. 
In its downward course the stream 
bears gradually to NE., and finally 
flows nearly due N. from Wattwyl to 
Wyl, a small town just half-waf be¬ 
tween Winterthur and St. Gall, noticed 
in Rte. A. The Toggenburg, lying 
altogether in the Canton St. Gall, is 
a populous and flourishing district, 
combining agriculture and pasturage 
with manufacturing industry. There 
are many spinning-mills, and works 
for printing and dyeing cotton. 

For some miles from Wyl, the road, 
passing at some distance from the 1. 
bank of-the Thur, is not very interest¬ 
ing. Near Biitschwyl the stream forms 
a fine fall in a gorge called Im schonen 
Guekel. At Dietfurt (1,968') the road 
crosses to the rr. bank, and traverses 
Lichtensteig and Wattwyl (Rte. B). 
Henceforward the scenery is richer and 
more picturesque. Kappel and Ebnat 
(Inn: Krone) are large and prosperous- 
looking places. Near Krummenau the 
road keeping to the rt. bank passes 
close to a spot where the Thur passes 
under a natural rock bridge, known 
as the Sprung. At Neu St. Johann, 
a former dependance of the Abbey of 
St. Gall, suppressed in 1798, is now 


a cotton-mill. Less than a mile farther 
is— 

Nesslau (2,468'), with a good country 
Inn (Krone), a large village at the junc¬ 
tion of the Lauternbaeh with the Thur. 
This is a good centre for several ex¬ 
cursions described in Rtes. H, I, and K. 
Above Nesslau the valley assumes a 
more alpine character; the mountains 
on either hand are higher, and approach 
nearer to the Thur. Beyond the con¬ 
fluence of the Weisse Thur with the 
main stream is the village of Stein, 
where the road crosses to the 1. bank, 
and soon after passes below the ruined 
Castle of Starkenstein. Henceforward 
the direction followed is nearly due E. 

Alt St. Johann (Inn: Rossli) is pic¬ 
turesquely situated (2,920') amidst 
green meadows surrounded by forests, 
and in sight of the higher summits of 
the Sentis and Churfirsten. Soon after 
quitting the village, the principal tor¬ 
rent of the Thur descends from the 
NE. into the main valley from a glen 
that originates in a hollow between the 
Sentis and the Alte Mann. At 31^ m. 
from Wyl the traveller reaches 

Wililhaus (3,613'), the last village in 
Toggenburg. It is one of the most 
attractive places to a mountaineer in 
this district, but the accommodation at 
the two Inns (Sonne; Hirsch) is de¬ 
cidedly inferior to that at Weissbad 
(Rte. D). ‘ The supply of provisions 

is scanty and indifferent in quality’ 
[J. E. M.]. The position of Wildhaus 
between the Schafberg (7,824') to the 
N., and the highest peaks of the Chur- 
firstcn to the S., is very picturesque. 
A small wooden house, black with age, 
said to have given birth to Zwingli, is 
shown to strangers in the adjoining 
hamlet of Lisiyhaus. From the Wild- 
enburg, a ruined castle \ hr. from the 
village, there is a fine view extending 
to the Vorarlberg mountains to the E. 

A better view of the Rhine valley is 
gained from the Sommerikopf (4,517'), 
about lj hr. E. of the village. The 
ascent of the Sentis from this side is 
shorter than from Weissbad (Rte. D), 
but should not be undertaken without 






ROUTE H.-NESSLAU TO ST. GALL. 


241 


a guide. The paths to Weissbad and 
Wallenstadt, described in Rtes. L and 
M, are interesting to the mountaineer. 

A short way from Wildhaus is the 
watershed between the Thur and the 
Rhine. A long descent leads down to 
Gams, and then, by a straight line of 
road planted with trees, to the rly. sta¬ 
tion at Haag. The rly. to Sargans is 
described in Rte. C. The pedestrian 
may follow a char-road to the rt. from 
Gams, and, passing Grabs, join the 
high road to Sargans at Werdenbery, 
close to Buchs, the next station on the 
rly. S. of Haag. 


Route H. 


ESSLAU TO ST. 

GALL, BY 

URNASCH. 


Mrs’ 

Eng. 


walking 

miles 

Kratzernwald . 

. 2 

H 

Urnasch . , 

. 2 

H 

Hundwyl . 

• H 


St. Gall . • 

. 2 i 

65 


7! 

22 


This Rte. is practicable only on foot, 
though here and there portions of the 
wav are passable for chars. Those who 
prefer a carriage may go from Urnasch 
by a hilly road to Waldstatt and Ileri- 
sau (Rte. B), 2f stunden — and thence 
to St. Gall, if stund., by road or rly. 

A char-road mounts from Nesslau 
(Rte. G) through the lower part of the 
glen of the Lauternbach as far as Beit- 
bad, where the mineral waters are fre¬ 
quented by the country people of the 
Toggenburg. By following up the glen 
to its head, the traveller would reach 
the W. base of the Sent is. The track 
leading to Urnasch bends gradually to 
N. , mounting the ridge called Kratzern- 
tcald, forming the division between the 
Cantons St. Gall and Appenzell. The 
descent lies through the pretty glen of 
the Urnasch torrent, which towards its 
head is sometimes called Rossbach. 
Half-way in the descent is the Boss/all, 
a waterfall that attracts many visitors. 
There is a small Inn close at hand. On 

PART II. 


the mountain to the W. is a small 
entrance to a cavern called Fliischer- 
hohle,of no great dimensions, but some¬ 
times made the object of an excursion. 

Urniiscli (Inns: Krone, Rossli, Ochs) 
is often cited as the best specimen of a 
Swiss village in a prosperous pastoral 
district. The houses are widelyscattered 
over green meadows, about 2,750 ft. 
above the sea, and the pastures, which 
nourish remarkably fine cattle, cover 
the slopes of the neighbouring moun¬ 
tains. An annual festival celebrated 
here (in August?) is famous in this 
part of Switzerland. The most inter¬ 
esting way to St. Gall, by Hundwyl, 
leaves the carriage-road leading to 
Waldstatt and Herisau a short distance 
from the village, crosses to the rt. bank 
of the Urnasch, and follows a rough 
char-road to 

Hunduyl (Inns: Krone; Ochs; Bar; 
rough but clean country inns). The 
streams in this neighbourhood have 
excavated very deep channels in the 
rocks; many of them afford very pic¬ 
turesque points of view, but cause some 
trouble to the pedestrian. [From Hund¬ 
wyl to Gonten (Rte. I) is an agree¬ 
able walk of If hr., passing over a hill 
called Hundwyler Hohe (4,359'), with a 
small Inn at the top.] The way to St. 
Gall is by the village of Stein, where a 
cavern called Fuchsloch, opening on 
the ravine of the Urnasch, deserves a 
passing visit. The way now lies across 
one of the deepest of the ravines above 
spoken of, called Zweibriieker Tobel, 
from two bridges that cross the Sitter. 
A rough wooden staircase enables foot - 
passengers to mount the steep sides of 
the ravine, and in 1 hr. more to reach 
St. Gall. 


R 



242 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 28 . SENTIS DISTRICT. 


Route I. 

NESSLAU TO WEISSBAD. 

The traveller has a choice of two 
ways between Ncsslau and Weissbad. 
The first and most direct is a walk of 
5 hrs.; by the second he reaches Ur¬ 
nasch in 4 hrs. on foot, and then takes 
the road by Gonten and Appenzell, a 
distance rather exceeding 9 m. 

1. By the Schway Alp. At the sum¬ 
mit of the ridge of the Kriitzernwald 
(Rte. H), the traveller, instead of de¬ 
scending the glen of the Urna3ch, bears 
to the rt., a little N. of E., to the Schwiig 
Alp, an alpine pasture at the NW. 
foot of the Sentis. A very agreeable 
path above the rt. bank of the Weiss- 
bach leads to the Boters Alp, and 
thence by the Leuerfall (Rte. D) to 
Weissbad, easily reached in 3 hrs. 
from the summit of the ridge. 

From the Leuerfall the traveller 
may mount the ridge on his rt. to the 
Ebenalp, and descend to Weissbad by 
the Wildkirchli (Rte. D); but a guide 
would be necessary, and the detour 
would lengthen the way bv 1 £ hr. 

2. By Urnasch and Gonten. At 
Urniisch, which is reached from Ness- 
lau by the path described in the last 
Rte., a carriage-road turns to the E. 
and mounts gently to Gonten. Before 
reaching the village it passes by a 
bathing establishment called Jacobsbad 
(2,900'), opened within the last few 
years. [From hence the pedestrian may 
in 1^ hr. ascend the Kronbery (5,382'), 
commanding a very fine view, and 
descend in about the same time along 
the E. ridge of the mountain to Weiss¬ 
bad.] About 1 m. beyond Jacobsbad 
is the village of Gonten (Inn : Biir), 
and m. farther Bad Gonten, said to 
be well kept and tolerably comfortable, 
where a strong chalybeate spring at¬ 
tracts visitors. The waters are taken 
internally, and also used for baths. 
Nearly 2 m. farther, about 7 m. from 
Urnasch, the traveller reaches Appen¬ 
zell, where the road, turning S.E., soon 
reaches Weissbad (Rte. D). 


Route K. 

NESSLAU TO WESEN. ASCENT OP THB 
SPEER. 

The Speer is deservedly visited by 
many travellers from Wesen on the L. 
of Wallenstadt, as it offers one of the 
finest alpine panoramas to be found in 
NE. Switzerland. Immediately over¬ 
looking the Lake of Wallenstadt, the 
spectator enjoys a sufficiently near 
view of the Todi chain in the back¬ 
ground, with the Glarnisch and other 
fine mountains in the middle distance. 
When practicable, it is a better plan to 
ascend the mountain from the N. side, 
and to descend thence to Wesen. The 
ascent may be made from Ebnat 
(Rte. G), mounting due S. by a lateral 
glen called Steinthal to the ridge E. of 
the summit in the same time as from 
Nesslau. The latter place lies more 
directly in the way of those approach¬ 
ing the L. of Wallenstadt from Appen¬ 
zell, and has a better Inn. A second 
way to Wesen, here described, is very 
beautiful, and the views not much in¬ 
ferior to those from the Speer, while it 
is decidedly less fatiguing. For all 
but experienced mountaineers it is 
advisable to take a guide on these ex¬ 
peditions. The geological structure of 
the Speer is remarkably similar to that 
of the Rigi (§ 26, Rte. B). 

1. By the Speer. 5^ to 6 hrs.—When 
the route is taken from Wesen, which 
lies 1,000 ft. lower than Nesslau, fully 
4 hr. more time must be allowed. The 
easiest and most frequented way from 
Nesslau is by the glen of the Weisse 
Thur, which, as mentioned in Rte. G, 
joins the Thur about 2 m. above the 
village. The way lies to the 1. bank 
of the stream, winding round the base 
of the Blaskopf (4,743') to the pastures 
called Im Laad. Thence mounting 
by the 1. bank of the Weisse Thur, the 
traveller, after passing the Herren Alp, 
reaches the ridge E. of the Speer in 
about 3 hrs. An inn is being built 
near the summit at the Ober Kaseren 
Alp , where it is well to take a boy to 



ROUTE L.-KRAY ALP. 


243 


show the way to the top (6,417'). This 
lies along a rather sharp ridge, with steep 
and somewhat slippery slopes of grass 
requiring caution. Nearly 1 hr. is re¬ 
quired for the ascent from the chalets. 
A shorter way from Nesslau, said to be 
more fatiguing, mounts SW. in a 
nearly direct line by the N. side of the 
Blaskopf. It is necessary to return 
from the summit to the Ober Kiiseren 
Alp. The way from thence to Wesen 
is so well traced that a guide is quite 
unnecessary. * The descent to SSW., 
rather rapid but nowhere difficult, 
passes the chalets of the Matt Alp. If 
pressed for time, the traveller may reach 
Wesen in little more than H hr., but 
the beautiful views constantly before 
him during the descent should induce 
him to linger somewhat on the way. 
It is said that an Inn is to be opened 
somewdiere on the mountain, probably 
at the Ober Kiiseren Alp, but the 
Editor has not learned that this has 
actually occurred. * 

2. By Amden. About 5 hrs.—The 
chief summits in the range connecting 
the Speer with the Churfirsten, reckon¬ 
ing from W. to E., are the Matts tack 
(6,400’), the Gulmen (5,873'), and the 
Fliegenspitze (5,610'). Two ways may 
be taken from the valley of the Thur 
to Amden : the first, which is the 
most direct from Nesslau, is by the 
depression between the first and the 
second of the above-named summits, 
and is reached from the Alp Im Laad 
by crossing the stream of the Weisse 
Thur, and mounting at first due S., 
then about SSW., to the pass. The 
descent to the village of Amden (§27, 
llte. C), and the path along the cliffs 
from thence to Wesen, present a suc¬ 
cession of exquisite pictures. The 
pass called Auf der Huhe (5,056'), 
lying* between the Gulmen and the 
Eliegenspitze, is the most direct for 
those approaching Wesen from Wild- 
haus or Alt St. Johann. It may be 
reached by a path turning off a little 
E. of the Castle of Starkenstein, or 
from the village of Stein, a little lower 
down the valley of the Thur. 

R 


Route L. 

WILDHAUS TO WEISSBAD, BY THE KRAY 
ALP. 

About 7 hrs., exclusive of halts. 

This is an interesting walk, in parts 
very steep, but it cannot be called 
difficult. An active mountaineer may 
easily combine with the day’s walk the 
ascent of the Alte Mann. A steep and 
continuous ascent leads NNE. from 
Wildhaus in about 2| hrs. to the 
chalets of the Kray Alp, passing on the 
way the Tesel Alp. In some places 
the ascent is made by steps hewn in 
the live rock. The Kray Alp is more 
than 6,000 ft. above the sea, and is 
said to offer many rare plants to the 
botanist. In 4 hr. the traveller may 
mount to the Scheidegg Pass (about 
7,000') between the Schaffberg (7,824') 
and the Alte Mann (7,987'). The 
ascent of the latter peak may be made 
from this point, but is said to be de¬ 
cidedly difficult—more so than that of 
the Sentis. Snow usually lies on the 
N. side of the Scheidegg. The descent 
is made to the NE, into a wild alpine 
hollow, Avith a small lake— Fahlensee 
(4,764')—lying in the bottom. The 
popular fancy has peopled this solitary 
wilderness with goblins and troubled 
spirits. From this upper shelf of the 
glen of the Briihlbach the traveller 
scrambles down by a mere goat-track 
to the lower level of the Siimtiseralp, 
where a larger lake, the Siimtisersee 
(3,980'), furnishes good trout for the 
visitors to Weissbad. It has no visi¬ 
ble outlet, but feeds by a subterranean 
channel the Briihlbach , which comes to 
light in a deep ravine some way lower 
down. After a steep descent into the 
ravine amidst rocks abounding in fos¬ 
sils, the path following the stream 
turns abruptly to NE., at rt. angles to 
its previous direction, and soon reaches 
the village of Briillisau , l£ m. from 
Weissbad. 

In fine weather most mountaineers 
going from Wildhaus to Weissbad, or 
•2 




244 ALPS OF NORTH SWITZERLAND. § 28 . SENTIS DISTRICT. 


vice versa, will be tempted to take the 
summit of the Sentis on their way be¬ 
tween those places. A notice of the 
ascent is given in Rte. D. In going 
from Wildhaus it is necessary to take 
a guide to the summit; but after re¬ 
turning from thence to the Wagenliicke, 
a practised mountaineer will not have 
much difficulty in finding his way down 
to the Meglis Alp, and may send his 
guide back to Wildhaus. 

Route M. 

WILDHAUS TO WALLENSTADT, BY THE 
CHURFIRSTEN. 

6 hrs.’ walk. 

The ridge of the Churfirsten is at¬ 
tractive to the mountaineer from the 
steep and rugged forms of its summits, 
connected together by narrow crests of 
rock that are in most places very dif¬ 
ficult of access. As there is no well- 
traced path leading from Wildhaus to 
Wallenstadt, and the descent on the S. 
side is in many places impossible, a 
traveller going without a guide is 
liable to get into serious difficulties. 
The course here indicated, and others 
that might be suggested, in the range 
lying S. of the Toggenburg, are interest¬ 
ing to the sportsman and the naturalist 
from the fact that he may here approach 
more nearly to many wild animals 
than is usually possible elsewhere in 
the Alps. The whole range, extending 
from the Gonzen over Sargans to the 
Speer, is declared by a cantonal law to 


be Freiberge, i. e., a district wherein 
all persons are prohibited under heavy 
penalties from killing wild animals. 
The animals are preserved, not for 
the amusement of a privileged class, 
but for the purpose of protecting the 
species commonly sought as game 
from the gradual destruction that seems 
to await them in other parts of the 
Alps. The effect has been not only 
to make chamois, ptarmigan, and other 
game common, and far less shy than 
usual, but to favour the increase of 
other wild animals, amongst which the 
ornithologist may observe many rare 
birds. 

The way from Wildhaus mounts 
steeply about due S. to the Kaserruck , 
a point in the ridge of the Churfirsten 
a little E. of the Scheibenstoll (7,556'), 
the highest of the range. Instead of 
descending directly to Wallenstadt, 
the traveller who wishes to see more of 
these mountains may follow a cattle- 
track that is carried about the mid 
height of the range, passing from the 
chalets ( hiitten ) of Losis over Wal¬ 
lenstadt to those of Riils, Tschingel, 
Schrienen, and Sels, whence he may 
descend to Quinten, the solitary village 
on the N. side of the lake, and reach 
Wesen or Wallenstadt by boat. This 
tour is sometimes made from Wallen¬ 
stadt. See § 27, Rte. C. 

The Editor has not seen any notice 
of the ascent of the Faulfirst (7,916') 
E. of Wallenstadt. But little lower 
than the Sentis, it is in some respects 
more favourably situated for a view of 
the Grisons Alps. 




245 


CHAPTER IX. 

LEPONTINE ALPS. 


Section 29. 

FORMAZZA DISTRICT. 

Route A — Obergestelen to Dnmo d’Os¬ 
sola, by the Gries Pass . 247 
Route B — Formazza (Andermatten) to 
Airolo, by the Passo di San 
Giacomo .... 250 
Route C— Viesch to Formazza (Ander¬ 
matten), by the Albrun Pass 
and Lebendu . . .251 

Route D— Viesch to Premia, by the Bin- 

nenthal . ... . 253 

Route E —Viesch to Isella, by the Ritter 

Pass.254 

Route F — Isella to Premia, by the Val 

Cherasca .... 256 

Section 30. 

ST. GOTHARD DISTRICT. 

Route A—Fluelen to Bellinzona, by the 

St. Gothard Pass . . . 259 

Route B — Excursions from Amsteg— 
Ascents of the Great and 
Little Windgelle and the 
Bristenstock . . . 269 

Route C—Hospenthal to Obergestelen, 

by the Furka Pass . .271 

Route D — Obergestelen to Airolo, by the 

Nufenen Pass . . . 273 

Route E — Airolo to Andermatt, by the 

Val Canaria .... 274 
Route F — Dissentis to Bellinzona, by the 

Lukmanier Pass . . . 274 

Route G — Dissentis to Airolo, by the 

Passodell’ Uomo . . . 278 

Section 31. 

ADULA DISTRICT. 

Route A — Coire to Bellinzona. by the 

Bernardino Pass—Via Mala 280 
Route B — Hinterrhein to Val Blegno— 

Ascent of Piz Valrheio . 287 
Route C — San Bernardino to Roveredo, 

by Val Calanca . . .292 

Route D—Trons to Olivone, by the 

Greina Pass . . . . 292 

Route E — Ilanz to Olivone, by the Vrin- 

thal.294 


Route F — Ilanz to Olivone, by the Za- 

vreila Thai .... 298 
Route G — Ilanz to Hinterrhein, by the 

Valserberg . . . . 30 0 

Route H — Reichenau to Spliigen, by Sa- 
vien and the Ldchliberg 
Pass ..... 301 

Section 32. 

LOCARNO DISTRICT. 

Route A—Bellinzona to Arona, or Sesto 
Calende, by the Lago Mag- 

giore.304 

Route B — Locarno to faido, by Val Ver- 

zasca.308 

Route C — Locarno to Airolo, by Val 

Lavizzara .... 309 
Route D — Locarno to Airolo, by Val Ba- 

vona.31] 

Route E — Locarno to Andermatten in 

Val Formazza . . . 314 

Route F—Locarno to Premia, by Val 

Rovana . . . *315 

Route G — Locarno to Domo d’Ossola 

by Val Onsernone . . 315 

Route H—. Locarno to Domo d’Ossola, 

by Val Vigezzo . . . 3 m 

Route I — Cauobbio to Domo d’Ossola, 

by Val Canobbina . . 317 

Route K—P.illanza, or Intra, to Domo 

d’Ossola, by Val Intrasca . 3 J; 

Section 33. 

COMO DISTRICT. 

Route A — Coire to Como, by the Spliigen 

Pass.319 

Route B — Colico to Milan, by Lecco . 330 
Route C — Bellinzona to Comb, by Lugano 333 
Route D — Campo Dolcino to Mesocco . 336 
Route K—Chiavenna to Roveredo . . 336 

Route F — Gravedona to Bellinzona . 337 
Route G — Luino to Menaggio, by Lugano 337 
Route H—Argegno to Osteno, by Val 
intelvi — Ascent of the 
Monte Gt-neroso . . . 339 

Route T — Laveno to Como, bv Varese . 343 
Route K — B -Ilagio to Krba, by Val As- 

sina . . •• . . 344 

Route L_ Como to Lecco, by lirba . 345 


Between the eastern extremity of the 
chain of the Pennine Alps and the 
principal range of the Rhsetian Alps, 
dividing the valley of the Inn from the 
Val Tellina, the main chain of the Alps 
is far from showing that regularity of 


direction which characterises the cen¬ 
tral chain described in the two preced¬ 
ing chapters of this work, that, with a 
single break, traverses Switzerland 
from the Lake of Geneva to the Val¬ 
ley of the Rhine near Coire. 








246 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 29. FORMAZZA DISTRICT. 


If we follow the line marking the 
division of the waters that flow into the 
Po from those that feed the Rhone or 
the Rhine, we find that it describes a 
somewhat irregular curve, convex to the 
N., from the Simplon Pass to the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Chiavenna. With the 
single exception of the Monte Leone, 
overlooking the pass of the Simplon, 
the summits of this portion of the chain 
are much inferior in height to those of 
the Swiss chain; but two peaks of the 
Adula group exceed 11,000 ft. in 
height. 

The extensive region lying between 
the chain that forms the natural frontier 
of Italy and the plains is occupied by 
mountain ranges whose summits some¬ 
times rival in height those of the divid¬ 
ing ridge, and which are cut through 
by deep valleys, three of which con¬ 
verge in the basin of the LagoMaggiore, 
the longest and deepest of all the lakes 
of the Alps. The most important of 
these valleys is the Yal Leventina, or 
Upper Valley of the Ticino. This has 
been known from a remote antiquity, 
owing to the fact that it leads to the 
Pass of St Gothard, one of the easiest 
lines of communication between Italy 
and the N. of Europe. The designation 
Lepontine Alps, derived from the Latin 
name of the valley, has long been some¬ 
what vaguely applied to the Alpine 
ranges that enclose it. Since geogra¬ 
phers have felt the need of fixing more 
accurate limits for the subdivisions of 
the Alpine chain, the term has been 
usually applied to the portion of the 
main chain extending from the Simplon 
to the Bernardino Pass, with the various 
ramifications extending from it to the 
southward. The writer would have 
willingly adhered to the limits thus 
established if he did not feel it to be 
impossible to separate from the re¬ 
mainder of the Canton Tessin the 
portion lying between the Lakes Mag- 
giore and Como, while it is at the 
same time apparent that the line 
followed by the road of the Splugen, 
nearly due S. from Reichenau to the L. 
of Como, affords a more natural division 


between the Lepontine and the Rhsc- 
tian Alps than that of the Bernardino. 
Whichever line be adopted as the limit 
is open to the objection that by throw¬ 
ing the mountain ranges W. of the 
Valley of the Rhine into the Lepontine 
Alps, it separates from the Rhaetian 
Alps valleys once inhabited by the 
Rhoeti. This is but a form of a diffi¬ 
culty constantly encountered by the 
geographer. When he regards the 
form of mountain ranges, he is forced 
to take for his boundaries the valleys 
and depressions by which one group is 
separated from another; when he attends 
to political divisions, he finds that these 
usually follow the crests of the moun¬ 
tain ranges, inasmuch as the human 
race, as well as most species of wild 
animals and plants, has spread without 
difficulty through the valleys, while the 
ridges have often opposed an insuper¬ 
able barrier to further extension. 

Adopting as the limits of the Lepon¬ 
tine Alps the breaks in the main chain 
corresponding to the passes of the 
Simplon and the Splugen, we shall in 
this work divide the region so limited 
into five districts, whose boundaries are 
hereinafter defined. 

While several portions of the region 
included in this chapter are the fre¬ 
quented haunts of tourists, others, 
scarcely, if at all, inferior in natural 
attractions, are amongst the most neg¬ 
lected districts in the Alps. The writer 
has personally visited several little- 
known valleys, but there are others with 
which he is not acquainted, and as to 
which he has failed to procure any re¬ 
liable information. 


SECTION 29. 

FORMAZZA DISTRICT. 

The high range, unmarked by any pro¬ 
minent peaks, lying on the 1. hand of 
the traveller descending from the Rhone 
Glacier to Brieg (§ 24, Rte. C), divides 
the Upper Valais from the head -waters 



ROUTE A.-EGINENTIIAL. 


247 


of the Tosa, Toccia, or Toce, that flow 
into the Lago Maggiore near Baveno. 
The valley of the Tosa is called towards 
its head Val Formazza ; in its middle 
portion, Val Antigorio ; and at its lower 
end—after receiving the Diveria from 
the Simplon Pass— Val d'Ossola. It is 
this valley with its tributaries, and the 
range dividing it from the valley of the 
Rhone, that is described in the present 
section. The part of the chain of the 
Lepontine Alps here included lies be¬ 
tween the Simplon (§ 21, Rte. A) and 
the Gries Passes. 

The neighbourhood of the Oberland 
Alps, and of the great glaciers that 
they send down towards the Rhone, 
has doubtless contributed to divert the 
attention of travellers from the less 
remarkable range on the opposite side 
of the Rhone valley. Within the limits 
here fixed this extends parallel to the 
axis of the Bernese Alps, and exhibits 
very distinctly the tendency to parallel 
longitudinal ridges which was remarked 
in the introduction to § 24 as charac¬ 
teristic of a part of the Oberland Alps. 
The recurrence of alpine streams flow¬ 
ing parallel to the axis of the range 
indicates on the map this disposition of 
the mountain masses. The fact that a 
line drawn from Niederwald in the 
Valais to the Val Antigorio above Pre¬ 
mia traverses in succession five parallel 
ridges, separated by corresponding 
glens, can scarcely be attributed to the 
action of mechanical causes indepen¬ 
dent of the original upheaval of the 
range. 

There is no place in this district that 
offers much inducement to the moun¬ 
taineer to select it as head-quarters. 
The lateral valleys on the Swiss side 
may be visited from Viesch or Munster, 
and there is a new inn close to the Falls 
of the Tosa which is well spoken of, 
and well placed. A mountain Inn 
at the head of the Val Cherasca could 
not fail to attract travellers, but this 
is a desideratum not yet likely to be 
supplied. 

Excluding the outlying peak of the 
Monte Leone, which has been noticed 


in connection with the Simplon Pass, 
the range from the Wasenhorn to the 
Gries Pass presents no prominent 
peaks, and no deep depressions. 

The higher points all lie between 
10,000 and 11,000 English feet, and the 
lowest pass—that of the Albrun—does 
not fall below 8,000 ft. The highest 
summit is the Blinnenhorn (10,932'), 
at the head of the lateral valley of the 
same name. 


Route A. 

OBERGESTELEN TO DOMO O’ OSSOLA, BT 
THE GRIES PASS. 


Gries Fass . 

Hr?.’ 
walking 
. 3 

Eng. 

miles 

Fails of the Tosa 

. 3 

t 

Andermatten 

: 4 

41 

Premia 

10 

Grodo . . 


41 

Domo d’Ossola . 

. 3 

9 


"uq 

4-2| 


This pass is practicable for mules or 
horses. Fully 11 hrs., exclusive of 
halts, should be allowed from Oberge- 
stelen to Premia; and when the pass is 
taken from the Italian side 12 hrs. must 
be reckoned, as the ascent is greater by 
1,800 ft. There is a good carriage- 
road from Premia to Domo d’ Ossola. 
Ladies should not count on finding 
suitable horses or mules, but there is 
nothing else to prevent them from 
taking this line, which affords a very 
interesting route into Italy, with a first- 
rate waterfall, and some noble scenery 
on the way. 

Obergestelen ( Inn : Cheval Blanc, 
good), noticed in § 24, Rte. C, is the 
chief village at the upper end of the 
valley of the Rhone, about equidistant 
from the sources of the Aar, Reuss, 
Ticino, and Tosa, and the place where 
the paths leading from the valleys of 
those streams converge. The Gries 
Pass is reached through the Eginenthal , 
drained by a torrent that joins the 
Rhone at Ulrichen, nearly l£ m. below 
Obergestelen. The pass may be taken 
from Munster, nearly 3 m. lower down 




248 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 29. FORMAZZA DISTRICT. 


the main valley, allowing 4 hr. more 
time for the ascent to the pass from 
that village. A traveller starting from 
Viesch some time before daylight, and 
taking a char to Ulrichen, would have 
time to reach the Yal Formazza, if not 
Premia, on the same day. Except in 
very settled weather, it is unadvisable 
to attempt this pass without a guide. 
Three tourists, surprised by a snow¬ 
storm, were lost on the glacier in 1849. 

The hamlet called Im Loch, at the 
opening of the Eginenthal, is reached 
from Obergestelen by a track along 
the 1. bank of the Ehone, and is con¬ 
nected with Ulrichen on the opposite 
bank by a wooden bridge. A short 
way above the hamlet the track crosses 
to the 1. bank of the Eginenbach by a 
bridge 4,600 ft. above the sea, near to 
a pretty waterfall. A steep ascent 
through a larch forest leads to the upper 
level of the valley. The torrent forms 
another fall above the forest, and 
several others farther on. The Eginen¬ 
thal is a wild stony valley, not inter¬ 
esting in its scenery, but it is not 
tedious, for in less than 2 hrs.’ steady 
walking from Obergestelen the tra¬ 
veller reaches a stone bridge where 
the torrent is crossed for the last 
time. A little higher up are the last 
chalets at this side of the pass, called 
Altstaffel (6,585'), to distinguish them 
from several others scattered over the 
stony slope. These lie in a rugged 
basin, surrounded by mountains be¬ 
tween 9,000 and 10,000 ft. in height, 
and the extremitv of the Gries Glacier 
is seen at the head of a depression in 
the range to the S. 

A little above these chalets the main 
branch of the Eginenbach is seen to 
descend from a glen that opens to SW. 
at rt. angles to the lower course of the 
stream, and parallel to the Ehone 
valley. 

[Near the head of this glen are the 
chalets of the Fischthal Alp at the un¬ 
usual height of 7,700 ft., and higher 
still is a small lake (8,530'). There 
would apparently be no difficulty in 
traversing the ridge W. of- this lake and 


descending to the Ehone near Munster 
through the Merzenthal, *a short glen 
(closed at its head by a small glacier), 
respecting which the Editor has no 
information. The circuit might be 
made in an easy day’s walk from 
Munster, and if favoured by weather 
the traveller might doubtless gain a 
very fine view of the Oberland Alp9 
from the Brodelhorn (9,187'),rising W. 
of the above-mentioned lake.] 

The ascent to the Gries Pass lies up 
the steep slopes S. of the Altstaffel, 
while the way to the Nufenen (§ 30, 
Ete. D) is about due E. A full hour 
is required for the ascent to the highest 
point of the pass—about 8,050 ft. Here 
the traveller sees the Gries Glacier , a 
considerable ice-field, about 4 m. long 
and l m. broad, stretching before him to 
SW. with a gentle upward slope to 
the foot of the Blinnenhorn (10,932'). 
This glacier is in many respects re¬ 
markable, and deserves more attention 
than it has yet received. It is formed 
in a trough between two parallel ridges 
of about equal height, of which the 
NW. ridge culminating in the Merzen - 
bachschien (10,532') belongs to the 
Valais, while the SE. ridge, extending 
from the Blinnenhorn to the summit 
immediately N. of Bettelmatt, forms 
the boundary between Switzerland and 
Italy. The Gries Glacier deserves to 
be called an ice-lake rather than an 
ice-stream ; the annual outflow is very 
trifling, but it seems to feed three, if 
not four, different streams—the Eginen¬ 
bach and Blinnenbaeh, tributaries of 
the Ehone : the Griesbach, one of the 
sources of the Tosa ; and it appears 
besides to send a short branch into the 
head of the Yal Corno, supplying a 
feeder to the Ticino. If it be possible 
to ascend from the head of the Blinnen- 
thal, which opens into the Ehone vallev 
at Eeckingen below Munster, to the 
snow col between the Blinnenhorn and 
the Merzen bachschien, the height of 
which is marked 9,898 ft. on the Fe¬ 
deral Map, there will be no difficulty in 
descending along the Gries Glacier and 
joining the beaten track at the top of 



ROUTE A.-YAL FORMAZZA. 


249 


the pass. The excursion must lead 
through new and interesting scenery. 

From the rocks whence the traveller 
has viewed the Gries Glacier, and which 
afford a very fine view of the Oberland 
Alps, it is necessary to descend a few 
feet in order to traverse the ice, here 
usually quite free from crevasses. The 
way lies about due S, and is marked 
by stakes planted here and there in the 
ice. The S. bank of the glacier is 
gained in 20 min., and the traveller 
sees below him the head of the Val 
Formazza , backed by the range that 
separates it from the Val Maggia, 
whose most conspicuous summit is the 
Basodine (10,748'). The descent to¬ 
ward Italy is longer and steeper than 
on the Swiss side. The head of the 
Val Formazza has a bare aspect, from 
the absence of timber and the uni¬ 
formity of the slopes. As very com¬ 
monly happens in valleys where the 
rock is crystalline slate of various 
degrees of hardness, the upper por¬ 
tion forms p. series of steps, or small 
plateaux , divided by steep and rough 
slopes. All the projecting surfaces of 
rock bear traces of the passage of ice. 
Four of these steps are traversed in 
descending from the pass. The highest 
is occupied by the chalets of Bettel- 
matt ; the next chalets, reached by a 
path on the 1. bank, which returns to 
the rt. bank lower down, are called 
Morast. The third plateau, reached 
by the track which here keeps to the 
rt. bank, is more extensive, and has 
several scattered groups of chalets. 
Here the Tosa, also called Toccia and 
Toce, is formed by the union of the 
torrents that fall into the head of the 
valley. In descending from the third 
to the fourth and lowest plateau, the 
path, which has returned to the 1. bank, 
lies close to a remarkably fine waterfall, 
where the traveller willingly halts awhile 
to enjoy the varied effects produced by 
a group of cascades which are here 
brought together into a single picture. 
If prepared by some over-coloured de¬ 
scriptions to expect a very large body 
of water, he will infallibly be disap¬ 


pointed, as in this respect the Tosa Fall 
is surpassed by the Handeck, and by 
several others that might be named in 
the Alps. The group of chalets above 
the fall is called Auf der Fruth, and 
those below it—about 800 ft. lower— 
Unter Fruth. A new inn opened here 
in 1864 is the best place to stop at in 
the upper valley, and deserves encou¬ 
ragement. The first hamlet is Fruth - 
wald, often written Frutval; to this 
succeed in rapid succession Gurflen 
(Ital., Grovello), Zum Steg (Ital., A1 
Ponte), and Pornmat. The latter is 
the largest hamlet, and has a rough 
country Inn ; but rather better quar¬ 
ters are found nearly £ hr. lower down 
the valley, at 

Andermatten (4,078'). The Inn 
(Rbssli) is improved, and has been well 
spoken of by several recent travellers, 
but there have been some complaints of 
imposition and extortionate charges. 
This, along with the other hamlets 
above mentioned, forms the commune 
of Formazza. Those who enquire for 
a village of that name are sometimes 
sent here, where there is the principal 
church; sometimes to Pommat. The 
population is mixed ; the German ele¬ 
ment, said to be derived from Bernese 
immigrants, predominates towards the 
head of the valley. Nearly all proper 
names have a German as well as an 
Italian form, and the Italian dialect 
spoken in the valley, even down to the 
neighbourhood of Domo d’ Ossola, in¬ 
cludes many words of German origin 
not easily recognised by a stranger. 

If the accommodation here were 
satisfactory, this place might afford in¬ 
teresting quarters fur a mountaineer 
and a naturalist. Besides the Rte. here 
described, this is the place of meeting 
of the paths from the Albrun (Rte. C) 
and St. Giacomo (Rte. B) Passes. 
More interesting than either of these 
are the Bocchetta di Val Maggia and 
the Forcolaccio, two passes leading to 
the Val Bavona, in the Canton Tessin, 
noticed in § 32. The summit being 
covered with clouds when the writer 
passed this way, he is unable to form 



250 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § S 

an opinion whether the fine peak of the 
Basodine (§ 32, Rte. D) may be acces¬ 
sible from this side. 

The Yal Formazza terminates at 
Foppiano, or Unterwald, about 3 m. 
below Andermatten, where a path to 
the E. leads over the Criner Furke to 
Cevio and Locarno (§ 32, Rte. E). The 
rough paved track that henceforth keeps 
to the rt. bank of the Tosa is tiresome 
to the feet after a long walk, but the 
lover of nature is rewarded for his 
labour by scenery of extreme beauty 
and grandeur throughout the descent 
from Foppiano to Premia. For the 
greater part of the way the Val Anti- 
yorio is hemmed in between walls of 
gneiss many hundred ft. in height, 
above which the larches that cling to 
the very edge of the precipice are seen 
against the sky. Those who have not 
time to arrive at Premia by dayl ight 
should sleep at Pommat or Andermat¬ 
ten if they would not lose the chief 
object of their visit to this valley. The 
vegetation assumes a more southern 
character, and the buildings and the 
people announce to the stranger his 
entrance into Italy before he reaches 

Premia (2,621'), a rather large vil¬ 
lage with a country Inn (Agnello) that 
has been favourably reported on by 
recent visitors. On the E. side of the 
valley are several passes leading to the 
Alpe di Cravairola, at the head of the 
Yal di Campo, one of the branches of 
Val Maggia. In the opposite direction, 
a little below Premia, the Devera tor¬ 
rent (Rte. D) descends to join the Tosa. 

Below Premia the Val Antigorio 
widens out and exhibits an aspect of 
richness and animation that affords a 
marked contrast to the Val Formazza, 
where everything around announces 
that the life of man is one of constant 
struggle and privation. 

After passing Cravegna, the next 
considerable village is Crodo, where 
there is or was a decent Inn. ‘ 2 m. 
below Crodo, 2^ hrs.’ walk below Pre¬ 
mia, are the Baths of Crodo , a large and 
well-furnished house, opened 1848: 
charge en pension 5 frs. a day, baths 


J. FORMAZZA DISTRICT. 

extra. The establishment is not very 
well managed, and passing travellers 
are charged unreasonably. The waters 
contain iron. A spring rises in the 
gardens. Carriages and horses may be 
hired here.’ 

‘ Below Crodo the carriage - road 
crosses the river twice before it reaches 
San Marco, and then enters the Simplon 
road , at the lofty and beautiful bridge 
of Crevola, near the new cemetery, at 
the junction of the Vedro with the 
Tosa.’ [M.] 

About m. below the bridge of 
Crevola the traveller, in 4^ hrs. from 
Premia (2 hrs. in a light carriage), 
reaches JDomo d ’ Ossola (Inns: H. de la 
Ville, tolerably good ; H. d’ Espagne ; 
PI. Albasini, just outside the town, best 
for those remaining more than a single 
night), described in § 21, Rte. A. 


Route B. 

♦ 

FORMAZZA (ANDERMATTEN ) TO AIROLO, 
HY THE PASSO DI SAN GIACOMO. 

hrs.’walking—A tolerably good horse-track. 

This pass is convenient for those who 
would approach the valley of the Tessin 
from the SW. by a less beaten track 
than by the Furca and the St. Gothard 
Pass. A traveller coming from Domo 
d’ Ossola or the Lago Maggiore may 
reach Andermatten on the first day, 
and on the next arrive early at Airolo. 
If he should be coming from Yiesch, he 
may either go direct to the Val For- 
mazza by the course indicated in Rte. 
C, or else reach Premia by either of 
the passes mentioned in Rte. D, and 
arrive at Airolo after a second day’s 
long, but not very laborious walk. A 
far more attractive route may be taken 
by a mountaineer who would traverse 
some fine but little known scenerv. 
Turning to the rt. from the ascent to 
the Passo di San Giacomo, he may gain 
the upper end of the Val Bavona by 
the Bocchctta di Valmaggia, and reach 





KOUTE C. — BIKNENTHAL. 


251 


Airolo in one day from Andermatten 
by crossing the ridge that divides the 
Val Bavona from the Yal Bedretto. 
See § 32, Rte. D. 

Peter Sillig, of Fruthwald, has been 
recommended as a guide, but none is 
required for the pass here described by 
any one used to mountain walking. 
Immediately above the Tosa Fall the 
path leading to Yal Bedretto begins to 
mount to NNE. over grassy slopes. It 
keeps above the 1. bank of one of the 
principal tributaries of the Tosa. through 
a gently-sloping glen called Val Toggia. 
After a while the path crosses to the rt. 
bank of the stream, but keeps the same 
general direction. On the rt. is a little 
lake, where the track to the Yal Bavona 
ascends to the E. The path now reaches 
a nearly level plateau, lying between 
the Helgiohorn (9,302') to N\V., and the 
Marchhorn (9,722') to the E. If clouds 
come on, the traveller will require to 
consult his compass, as the path be¬ 
comes indistinct amidst the numerous 
cattle - tracks. On approaching the 
summit of the pass (7,572') he should 
lean a little to the rt. or about due NE. 
The descent is very gentle until, in 
about hr. from the pass, or 3£ hrs. 
from Andermatten, he reaches a small 
oratory dedicated to St. James, which 
has given its name to the pass. Here 
there is a fine view of the peaks of the 
St. Gothard range on the opposite side 
of the Yal Bedretto, and 1 hr., or even 
less, suffices for the descent by a path 
that winds down the slope of the moun¬ 
tain to the little inn at Hospital all' 
Acqua (beds fairly good, but food poor 
and scanty), on the way from the Nu- 
fenen Pass (§ 30, Rte. D) to Airolo. 
In descending into the Val Bedretto, a 
very slight detour enables the traveller 
to visit a pretty waterfall in a pine- 
forest on the rt. of the path. 


Route C. 

VIESCII TO FORMAZZA (ANDERMATTEN), 
BY THE ALBRLN PASS AND LEBENDU. 


Binn . . . 

Hrs.’ 
walking 
• 2* 

Eng. 

miles 

7 

Albrun Pass 

. 3* 

9 

Pom mat 

. 5 

12* 

Andermatten . 

h 

H 


H* 

30 


The distances given in this and the 
following Rte. are merely approximate. 
The ground is in part very rough and 
almost trackless, and the Editor has 
received little information derived from 
personal experience. The way from 
Viesch is practicable for horses as far 
as the summit of the Albrun Pass, and 
a guide is there unnecessary ; but it 
would be very difficult to find the 
remainder of the way without one. 

The Biwe torrent, the most con¬ 
siderable stream that joins the Rhone 
on the 1. bank between its source and 
the junction of the Yispach, is formed 
by the union of a number of streams 
originating in upland glens running 
parallel to the chain dividing the valley 
of the Rhone from that of the Tosa. 
Having united their waters near the 
village of Binn, they flow towards the 
Rhone in a NE. direction through a 
cleft cut through the mountain ridge 
at rt. angles to their former course. 
On approaching the Rhone the Binne 
is forced aside by a projecting ridge of 
no great height, and is turned some¬ 
what S- of E. until it finally pours its 
waters into the Rhone just where the 
new road makes a rapid descent be¬ 
tween Lax and Moril (§ 24, Rte. C). 

The Binnenthal is extremely inter¬ 
esting to geologists. Its upper por¬ 
tions form a narrow trough between 
two parallel granitic ranges, and the 
secondary calcareous rocks are meta¬ 
morphosed into a saccharoid dolomite, 
containing rare minerals, such as tre- 
molite, idocrase, red and blue corun¬ 
dum, tourmaline, realgar, &c. 



252 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 29. FORMAZZA DISTRICT. 


The way fromViesch to the Binnen- 
thal descends to a bridge over the 
Rhone, just below the junction of the 
Viesch torrent and due S. of the vil¬ 
lage, and then, leaving on the slopes to 
the 1. the village of Aernen, mounts 
through a pine-forest to the ridge lying 
in the angle between the Rhone and 
the Binne. On gaining the summit, 
whence it overlooks the lower part of 
the Binnenthal, the path turns to the E. 
along the slope of the mountain, and in 
about 1^ hr. from Viesch reaches the 
hamlet of Ausser Binn (4,304 ), stand¬ 
ing at a considerable height above the 
Binne. After crossing a torrent that 
descends from the NE., the traveller 
enters the defile cut through a ridge 
that, with this single break, extends 
from the Holzihorn to the gorge of the 
Saltine above Brieg. The path be¬ 
comes so narrow that laden mules have 
barely space to pass, and in some 
places is cut into the rock. At the 
upper end of the defile is the junction 
of the two branches of the valley. The 
opening of the Lang Thai is passed on 
the rt., while the path, keeping to the 
rt. bank of the stream, follows the main 
branch of the Binnenthal, and in 2f 
hrs. (ascending the valley) reaches 
Binn (4,784'), the principal village, 
where there is a poor Inn. Here the 
path to the Albrun Pass crosses to the 
1. bank and ascends along the stream 
towards ENE. to Imfeld, the highest 
hamlet, about 1 hr. above Binn. The 
larches in this part of the valley are 
said to be remarkably fine. Imfeld is 
close to the junction of the main 
stream, here flowing from the E., with 
the Feldbach. The latter is divided 
by the range called Schweifen Grat, 
culminating in the Holzihorn (9,810'), 
from the glen of the Bappenthal, which 
joins the Rhone a little above Viesch, 
after describing a course almost exactly 
parallel to that of the Binnenthal. 
There seems to be an extensive field of 
neve, visible from the iEggischhorn, on 
the E. side of the Holzihorn, between that 
summit and the Mittaghorn (10,44 1'), 
which is partly drained by the Happen 


Glacier, a small ice-stream flowing into 
the head of the Rappenthal. It would 
be an interesting day’s walk from 
Viesch to make the circuit by the 
Feldbach to the snow-col between the 
above-named summits, returning by 
the Rappenthal, and doubtless gaining 
from the summit a verv fine view of 
the Oberland Alps. 

The path to the Albrun Pass returns 
to the rt. bank of the torrent at Imfeld, 
and mounts somewhat N. of E., passing 
in succession several groups of chalets. 
The head of the valley is closed by the 
Ofenhorn, or Punta d’Arbola (10,728'), 
a snow-pyramid, one of the highest 
summits in this part of the main rang- 
After passing the last chalets (7,267'), 
where the Binne originates in the junc¬ 
tion of several streams issuing from the 
surrounding snow-fields, the path turns 
to the SE., and in about f hr. mounts a 
moderately steep slope that leads to the 
Albrun Pass , or Passo d’Arbola (8,005'), 
the lowest in the main chain between 
the Simplon and the St. Gothard. It 
lies between the Ofenhorn and the 
Albrunhorn (9,515'). The view is said 
by some travellers to be uninteresting ; 
by others, to be wild and very striking. 
Here the horse-track bends to the rt. 
(see next Rte.), while the course to the 
upper end of the Val Formazza lies to 
the E. over an extremely wild and 
rugged granitic plateau, where local 
knowledge is needed by those who 
would not run the risk of being 
benighted. It is necessary to tra¬ 
verse two ridges, each as high as, 
or higher than, the Albrun, before 
attaining the pastures surrounding 
a lake called Lcbendu , larger than 
is commonly found at so great a 
height. Here are some chalets; a 
path leads along the N. side of the 
lake, and then descends by the 1. 
bank of the torrent through a narrow 
gorge, where it forms a fine waterfall, 
and in 2 hrs. from the lake reaches 
Pommat (Rte. A), ^ hr. above Ander- 
matten. 

In taking this pass from the Val For¬ 
mazza, the guide may be sent back as 





ROUTE D. 


ALBRUN PASS. 


253 


soon as tlie traveller has reached the 
summit of the Albrun Pass. It is pru¬ 
dent to start very early, as the way is 
long and fatiguing. 

There is another way from the Albrun 
Pass to the Yal Formazza, as to which 
the Editor desires further information. 
It lies about due E. from that pass, by 
the N. side of the Businhorn, and by a 
pass called Col di Bunin , between that 
summit and the Cima 1lossa (9,866'), 
descending by a small lake, called Lago 
di Busin, whose torrent falls into the 
Tosa about 1 m. below Eoppiano. 

[From the Lake of Lebendu a track 
leads N. to a pass called Nucfelyiu, be¬ 
tween the Ilohsandhorn (10,515') and 
the Nuefelgiuhorn, and then descends 
to the chalets of Morast, near the foot 
of the Gries Pass (Rte. A). By bear¬ 
ing to the rt.orNW. from the Nuefelgiu 
Pass, it may be possible to reach the 
extensive snow-fields between the Hoh¬ 
sandhorn and the Blinnenhorn, from 
whence the Hohsand Glacier, by far the 
largest of those falling into the Val 
Formazza, descends to the E., and 
sends down a glacier torrent that joins 
the Gries Bach below the chalets of 
Bettelmatt.] 


Route D. 

/IESCH TO PREMIA, BY THE 
BINNENTHAL. 

The easiest, but most circuitous, track 
leading from the Binnenthal to the Val 
Antigorio is by the Albrun Pass ; the 
best route for pedestrians is by the Col 
della Rossa: but in addition to these 
there are several others known to the 
chamois-hunters of Binn, of which the 
most interesting is probably that by the 
Kriegalp Pass. The traveller who 
undertakes any of these passes from 
Viesch must count on a walk of 12 hrs.; 
and if taken from Premia he should 
allow £ hr. more for the difference of 
level between that place and Viesch. 


1. By the Albrun Pass. The way 
from Viesch to the summit of the Al- 
brun Pass is described in the last Rte. 
The distance from Viesch is counted as 
6 hrs., but in ascending nearly 7 hrs. 
must be allowed. From the Pass the 
horse-track leading to theVal Antigorio, 
which is but faintly traced, descends at 
first SE., but bends gradually to the rt.; 
and on reaching the upland valley that 
is seen from near the pass the course 
lies SW., or nearly in the opposite di¬ 
rection to that followed in the ascent 
from Binn. The valley is rich in alpine 
pasture, and descends very gently. The 
track, which keeps to the 1. bank of the 
stream, and lies over swampy ground 
near a small lake called Codelago, 
reaches in rather more than 2 hrs. from 
the pass the pastures of the DeveroAlp. 
This is a level grassy plain, probably a 
filled-up lake basin, beautifully situated 
at the junction of the Arbola torrent, by 
which the traveller has descended from 
the NE., with a stream from the Lago 
di Buscagna to SW., and many minor 
streamlets from the surrounding peaks. 
At the point where the main streams 
meet to form the Devera is a large 
group of chalets, called Al Ponte (6,273'). 
There was formerly a small mountain 
Inn here, but it has been closed for some 
years. Rough accommodation for the 
night may be found at the chalets. 

A paved bridle-track, fatiguing to the 
feet, descends by the rt. hank of the 
Devera, crossing and recrossing the 
stream before reaching the poor village 
of Osso, near the junction of a torrent 
descending from an upland valley to 
the N. This is inhabited by a German 
population whose village, called Ayer 
(Ital., Agaro), has long kept itself as a 
separate community, maintaining un¬ 
changed its local usages and original 
language. The scenery of the Devera 
valley is extremely rich and picturesque, 
especially at a point near Osso where 
the path crosses a bridge, and passes 
under a ruined gateway. A little lower 
down it is carried under the village of 
Croveo, perched on the slope to the 1., 
and finally joins the road from Crodo 




254 


LEPONTISTE ALPS. § 29. FORMAZZA DISTRICT. 


to Premia , | hr. below the latter vil¬ 
lage. 

The tired or benighted traveller may 
save ^ hr. in his day’s walk by halting 
at Baceno , a village on the rt. bank of 
the Devera, standing near its junction 
with the main valley, and reached by 
a bridge near the hamlet of Graglia. 

2. By the Col della Rossa. This pass 
leads by a tolerably direct course from 
Imfeld in the Binnenthal (Rte. C) to 
the Devero Alp. It is but little higher 
than the Aibrun, but the way is so 
rough that little time is saved by it. 
Nearly 4 hrs. must be allowed for reach¬ 
ing Imfeld from Viesch. The track to 
the Col della Rossa thence keeps to the 
1. bank of the Binne, and in less than 
1 m. turns to the rt. into the opening of 
a lateral glen that descends from the S. 

Two torrents unite close to the open¬ 
ing of the glen: the path follows the 
western branch, mounting along the rt. 
bank of the stream. After a while the 
glen bends to the eastward, and the 
faintly-marked track no longer follows 
the stream, but mounts along the slopes 
about due E. to attain the level of the 
Geisspfad See, a mountain lake about 
7,800 ft. above the sea. The track 
passes round the N. and E. sides of the 
lake, and then ascends the ridge to the 
S., only 300 ft. above its level. This 
forms the Col della Rossa or Geisspfad 
Pass , 8,120 ft. above the sea. ‘ The top 
forms a barren rocky plain, bare of snow 
when we passed, covered with great 
boulders and pools of water. The way 
across it is marked by stone cairns.’ 
[L.S.] A mass of serpentine several 
hundred feet thick lies at the top of 
the pass, seemingly overlying the 
gneiss. When seen from the S. side 
the ridge presents a steep face of rock, 
with two horns rising like obelisks, 
between which lies the pass. The 
descent of the rocks will cause no diffi¬ 
culty to the practised mountaineer; and 
having reached their base, he follows 
the 1. bank of a little stream that 
traverses the Devero Alp and joins the 
route from the Aibrun at the chalets of 
A1 Ponte. 


3. By the Kriegalp Pass. This is said 
to be the most interesting of the passes 
rom Viesch to Premia. It is reached 
through the SW. branch of the Binnen¬ 
thal, more fully noticed in next Rte. 
From the hamlet of Heiligenkreuz, 
reached in 3£ hrs. from Viesch, the way 
ies through a glen opening to SSE., 
which leads up to the Kriegalpstock, a 
remarkable peak well seen from the 
ASggischhorn. The pass, which lies on 
the N. side of that peak, is attained in 
about 7 hrs. from Viesch. * The path 
on the N. side is not difficult, but is ill 
marked, and might easily be missed 
without a guide. From the summit 
there is a steep descent, with rocks on 
either side, until the head of a gully or 
ravine is reached, on the rt. side of which 
the descent is not difficult. There is 
no passage to the 1.’ [M.] From the 
base of the gully the way lies some¬ 
what N. of E. Within ^ hr. the travel¬ 
ler reaches the chalets of Buscagna, 
and about £ hr. farther, at A1 Ponte, he 
joins the two Rtes. above described. 
The Swiss Federal Map does not indi¬ 
cate this pass, nor the faintly-marked 
track leading to it from Heiligenkreuz. 


Route E. 

VIESCH TO 1SELLA, BY THE RITTER 
PASS. 

12| hrs.’ walk, exclusive of halts. 

^ The Ritter Pass , or Passo di Boc- 
careccio , 8,858 ft. in height, is probably 
the most interesting route across the 
portion of the main chain described in 
this section. To reach lsella in one 
day from Viesch involves a laborious 
day’s walk; but, incase of need, very 
fair quarters for the night may be 
had at the chalets of the Diveglia Alp 
on the S. side of the pass. 

This pass is described by M. Desor, 
in his ‘ Excursions et Sejours dans les 
Alpes,’ and is briefly noticed by Mr. 
Jacomb in the 4th number of the 
‘Alpine Journal,’ but it seems to have 



ROUTE E. 


RITTER PASS. 


255 


boons very rarely visited by strangers. 
The rockwork on either side of the 
pass is somewhat difficult, and the 
assistance of an experienced guide is 
indispensable. 

As mentioned in Rte. C, the two 
main branches of the Binnenthal unite 
a short way below the village of Binn. 
The way to the Ritter Pass lies through 
the Lang Thai , which at its lower end 
descends due N. to the junction. The 
path ascends along the rt. bank amidst 
blocks fallen from the mountain above. 
The hamlet of Heiligenkreuz, also called 
Langthal (4,938'), is reached in J hr. 
from the fork of the valley, or nearly 
3^ hrs. from Viesch. There is here a 
chapel which at certain times attracts 
pilgrims ; at other seasons there is 
nothing to be had to eat here, or lower 
down in the valley, save black bread 
and milk. Travellers should attend to 
the commissariat before leaving Viesch. 

At Heiligenkreuz the Lang Thai is 
divided into three minor branches 
meeting exactly at the same point. 
That opening to SSW. is the Kriegalp 
Thai , mentioned in the last Rte. The 
W. branch of the valley is the Jaffisch- 
thal. A short wav farther up the latter 
valley turns to SW., and mounts to a 
col on the S. side of the Tunnetschhorn. 
By this way a traveller may reach the 
Simplon road, descending along the 
torrent that is crossed by the bridge of 
Berisal. The middle branch of the val¬ 
ley, intermediate between those above ‘ 
named, is called Mattithal. This is 
again divided into two branches, of 
which one mounts SW. to the Steinen 
Glacier on the N. side of the Hiille- 
horn. On the SW. this glacier over¬ 
looks the Steinenthal, that descends 
close to Berisal. It is probable that a 
fine pass may be made this way from 
Heiligenkreuz to Brieg, care being 
taken to keep well to the rt. in de¬ 
scending from the glacier to the 
Steinenthal. 

The 1. branch of the Mattithal, in 
ascending the valley, is that by which 
the traveller approaches the Ritter Pass. 
In 1 hr. from Heiligenkreuz he will 


reach the chalets of Gimmen (6,851'), 
the highest in this branch of the valley, 
occupied but for a few Aveeks in the 
summer. The little plain forming the 
basin of the upland valley is enclosed 
by an amphitheatre of steep rocks, no¬ 
where less than 2,000 ft. in height, with 
the Hiillehorn (about 10,000') to the 
rt, and the Ilclsenhorn (10,443') on 
the 1. The ascent of the rocks leading 
to the pass between these summits is 
far from easy. It. appears to be best 
effected on theE. side; but Mr. Jacomb’s 
party, not aided by a local guide, con¬ 
sumed 4 hrs. in reaching the summit. 
He considers that of this time 1 hr. was 
lost in seeking the way, and owing to 
various accidents. On advancing a 
few steps from the summit of the pass 
the traveller finds himself at the verge 
of another amphitheatre, far grander 
in its proportions than that which ho 
has just left behind him. On the op¬ 
posite side of a circular basin, about 
3 m. in diameter, the Monte Leone 
(11,696') rises 6,000 ft. aboA r e its base, 
and is connected with the adjoining 
peak of the Hiillehorn by a range 
whose prominent summits are the 
Bortelhorn (10,482'), the F urggenbaum- 
horn, and the Wasenhorn (10,628'). 
On the SW. of the amphitheatre the 
mountains leave a comparatively nar¬ 
row opening by which the Cherasca 
torrent, fed by the glaciers that descend 
between the above-named peaks, issues 
to join the Diveria in the Val Vedro 
The scene is one of unexpected gran¬ 
deur. From the accounts of M. Lesor 
and Mr. Jacomb it appears that the 
descent on the S. side of the pass was 
much facilitated by snow, which lies in 
couloirs and steep slopes near the 
summit through the greater part of the 
year. In the month of September the 
writer saw the pass completely bare of 
snow on this side, and at that time the 
descent would probably have been 
found difficult. If no such obstacle 
should intervene, 1 ^ hr. suffices to reach 
the extensive pastures of the Diveglia 
Alp , here called Divei, about 5,600 ft. 
above the sea. This is the general 





256 


LEPONTJNE ALPS. § 29. FORMAZZA DISTRICT. 


name for the basin at the head of Val 
Cherasca, also called Val di Nembro; 
but each of several groups of chalets 
has a separate local name. At those of 
Cornu, Air. Jacomb found better quar¬ 
ters than usual in such places. The 
alp is abandoned on the 8th or 9th 
September, and after that date the tra¬ 
veller cannot count on finding shelter 
here. Fully 9 hrs., exclusive of halts, 
should be allowed for the walk from 
Viesch to the DivegliaAlp, and 3§hrs. 
more are required to reach Isella. The 
scenery is throughout so beautiful that, 
even with the help of a local guide, it 
is unadvisablc to p&ss through it after 
dark. A well-traced path follows the 
rt. bank of the Cherasca, and before 
long begins to descend steeply, till in 
1 hr. the traveller reaches the Alp of 
Nembro, where a torrent descends from 
the S. to join the Cherasca. The 
shortest way in distance to Isella is by 
a path that mounts along the torrent 
to the chalets of Valle, and crossing 
the ridge between the Cherasca and the 
Val Vedro, descends into the latter 
valley close to Isella ; but few tra¬ 
vellers will feel disposed to undertake 
another steep ascent after the previous 
long walk, and most will prefer the far 
easier and very beautiful way by the 
valley. The traveller must avoid a 
tempting bridge, and keep all the way 
to the rt. bank of the Cherasca. For a 
short distance the paths leading from 
one chalet to another may confuse him, 
but he will soon find a tolerably well- 
traced path that at first lies very near 
to the bank of the torrent. As he 
advances, he will keep nearly at a level 
while the stream works its way down, 
so that after an hr.’s walk he finds 
himself at a considerable height above 
the bottom of the valley, enjoying 
beautiful views, and following an easy 
and well-made path. As he draws 
near the lower end of the valley, where 
numerous groups of houses appear on 
either bank, he will do well to take a 
boy to show the shortest way to Tras- 
quera, a village standing fully 1,500 ft. 
above the junction of the Cherasca 


with the Diveria, enjoying a beautiful 
view of the Val Vedro. He must not 
attempt to descend the precipitous face 
of the mountain below the village. 
The true way lies for some distance 
about due W., and then descends by a 
rough and steep path, which may be 
easily missed without local guidance. 
This will lead him down to the high 
road within a few yards of the com¬ 
fortable Hotel de la Poste at Isella. 

At Trasquera lives a chamois-hunter 
named Franz, who is the best guide 
for the passes at the head of the Val 
Cherasca. These are more fully no¬ 
ticed in § 21, Rte. B. 


Route F. 

ISELLA TO PREMIA, BY THE VAL 
CHERASCA. 

The shortest way from Isella to the 
ValAntigorio is to descend by the Sim¬ 
plon i*oad to the bridge of Crevola, and 
then, turning sharply to N., to ascend 
by the carriage-road to Premia. The 
mountaineer not pressed for time has a 
choice of several very interesting but 
rarely-used mountain paths, all passing 
through very fine scenery, which con¬ 
nect the Val Cherasca with the vallev 

y 

of the Devera. 

1. By Ghebbo and Ciamporhw. This 
course was taken by Mr. A. Milman, 
who has communicated the following 
brief notes to the Editor : ‘ Take a path 
that leads up the mountain and through 
the woods immediately behind the 
Hotel at Isella to the village of Tras¬ 
quera; then over and round the shoulder 
of the hill above that village, descend¬ 
ing and crossing the Cherasca to a 
hamlet called Ghebbo ,—put in Leu- 
thold’s map on the wrong side of the 
stream. Follow the path up the valley 
beyond Ghebbo till you come to a 
ruined chapel and cross, where the path 
bifurcates. Take the rt. hand path 
which mounts N. to the pastures of 
Ciamporino, and then turns E. to cross 




ROUTE F. 


COL DI VALTENDRA. 


257 


a col connecting those chalets with the 
head of the Val Bondoler. You descend 
into the valley of the Devera, which 
tails into Yal Antigorio, just below 
Premia. In this route the path is 
rather difficult to find, but the scenery 
is very lovely ; first, the woods behind 
Isella, looking down upon the Simplon 
route and Yal Vedro ; then in ascend¬ 
ing the Alps beyond Ghebbo, and from 
the col, whence there is a fine view 
back to the Monte Leone and other 
high mountains over the Simplon. 
Nothing can be more rich and beauti¬ 
ful than the valley by which you 
descend into the Yal Antigorio. From 
Isella to Premia, time 11 hrs.’ 

Mr. Milman has not given particulars 
as to the course taken by him in de¬ 
scending from the head of the Yal 
Bondoler to the Devera. To judge 
from the Piedmontese Government 
Map, as well as that of General Du- 
four, there is no well-traced path, and 
it would be prudent to take a guide 
from the chalets of Bondoler to show 
the way. 

The above-mentioned pass, connect¬ 
ing the chalets of Ciamporino with 
those of Bondoler, lies between the 
Pizzo di Ciamporino on the W., and 
Monte Cistella to the E. The latter is 
a very bold range with two summits, of 
which the higher or W. peak (9,439') 
appears to be very difficult of access. 
Franz of Trasquera, mentioned in the 
last Kte., will guide a stranger to the 
summit. The position is very favour¬ 
able for a view of this part of the alpine 
chain. 

2. By the Col di Valtendra —The 
traveller who follows the course indi¬ 
cated by Mr. Milman will miss seeing 
the cirque , or amphitheatre, at the head 
of the Cherasca valley, described in 
Rte. D, as Avell as the striking scenery 
at the head of the valley of the Devera. 
To include both of these in a single 
day’s walk from Isella would be a 
laborious undertaking, fit only for 
well-trained mountaineers in the height 
of the summer. By sleeping at the 
chalets of the Diveglia Alp, or at those 

PART II. 8 


of Ponte, the route here pointed out 
may be followed by moderate walkers, 
and the way from Diveglia to Premia 
may be combined with the passage of 
the Ivaltwasser Joch, between the 
Simplon Hospice and Diveglia (§21, 
Rte. B). 

The beautiful walk from Isella 'to 
Diveglia is noticed in the last Rte. 
The distance is reckoned hrs. from 
Isella, but an active walker will ac¬ 
complish it in 4 hrs. ascending, or 
3j hrs. descending, the valley. 

The course here described from Di¬ 
veglia to A1 Ponte was taken, many 
years ago, by MM. Desor, Escher, and 
Studer, and is described by the first- 
named gentleman. Near the foot of 
the long ascent to the Basso di Bocca- 
reccio (Rte. E), a stream descends from 
the E. into the cirque of Diveglia, 
through a stony glen that leads up to 
the Col di Valtendra, a wild rocky 
plateau, which, on the E. side, slopes 
towards the head of the Yal Bondoler. 
The direct way to Premia descends first 
to the chalets of Bondoler (1 hr.), then, 
at first steeply, afterwards more gently, 
and at last steeply by the rt. bank ot the 
torrent, till it enters Val Devera 2 hrs. 
from Bondoler. 2 hrs. more suffices to 
reach Premia. The above-named Swiss 
geologists turned to the 1. or about due 
N., at the chalets of Bondoler, and 
ascended through a steep gully in the 
face of the dolomite rocks. From the 
summit a faintly-marked track leads 
across a second col, still more barren 
and dreary than that of Valtendra, to the 
chalets of Buscagna. Here the way 
from the Kriegalp Pass (Rte. D) joins 
the present Rte. The Buscagna Alp 
lies near the head of one of the branches 
of the Devera that meet at A1 Ponte. 
Huge blocks of serpentine, fallen from 
the mountains on the N. side of the 
valley, are mingled with the chalets 
scattered over the pastures. In less 
than hr. the traveller may reach A1 
Ponte by a path along the 1. bank of 
the stream. The way to Premia is 
described in Rte. D. 




258 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § SO. 


SECTION 30. 

ST. GOTHARD DISTRICT. 

In the preceding portions of this 

work frequent reference has been made 

to the principal chain of the Swiss Alps 

extending from the E. end of the Lake 

of Geneva to the neighbourhood of 

Coire, and to the line of valley lying 

between that chain and the so-called 

main chain, forming the N. limit of the 

basin of the Po. Asa general rule, the 

traveller who would reach Italv from 

•/ 

the N. of Switzerland by a direct 
course must traverse both of those 
great alpine ranges. At a single point, 
however, the Swiss chain is completely 
cut through by a deep cleft which 
presents the means for entering Italy 
from the N. by traversing one instead 
of two alpine passes. It so happens 
that this pass, lying in the same line 
as the cleft of the Reuss valley, is one 
of the lowest in the main chain—6,936 
ft. above the sea. 

It is a noticeable fact that a little to 
the E. and W. of the great cleft through 
the chain of the Swiss Alps the main 
valley is barred by ridges parallel to 
that cleft, having the effect of separating 
from each other the head waters of the 
Rhone and the Rhine, which would 
otherwise have parted in the centre in 
the same manner as we see, in the E. 
Alps, one branch of the Adige flowing 
from the same plateau that sends down 
a feeder to the Inn, and the other 
branch of the same stream divided by 
no apparent barrier from the head 
waters of the Drave. 

It is no less worthy of remark that 
besides the Vorder Rhein and the 
Rhone, which but for the above-men¬ 
tioned barrier would meet somewhere 
near Andermatt, and the Reuss, which 
flows from thence to the N., the head 
valley of the Aar lies close to the 
ridge dividing the Rhone from the 
Reuss, while the three principal valleys 


ST. GOTHARD DISTRICT. 

on the S. side of the Lepontine Alps 
—those of the Ticino, the Maggia, and 
the Tosa—converge towards the same 
centre. The ridges of the Oberalp 
and Furca Passes are not more than 
13 m. apart, and a circle with a dia¬ 
meter but little greater will include 
some portion of the basin drained by 
each of the seven most copious streams 
of the central Alps. It is a further pecu¬ 
liarity that in most cases the passes 
connecting the heads of these valleys 
with each other are amongst the lowest 
and most easily traversed in this part 
of the Alps. Several of these have 
been already described—the Grimsel 
Pass, between the sources of the Aar 
and those of the Rhone, in § 24 ; the 
Oberalp Pass, between the Vorder 
Rhein and the Reuss, in § 27 ; the 
Gries Pass, connecting the upper valley 
of the Tosa with the Rhone, and the 
San Giacomo Pass between the same 
valley and the Ticino, in § 29. In the 
present section it will be convenient to 
include the road of the St. Gothard 
from Altdorf to Bellinzona, the pass 
of the Furka between the Rhone and 
the Reuss, and that of the Nufenen 
between the former and the Ticino. 
These passes with the Oberalp Pass 
limit on three sides the portion of the 
main chain that seems to have been the 
seat of those operations whence the 
peculiar conditions above noted have 
arisen. On the E. side it is not so easy 
to determine the natural limit between 
this group and that of the Adula, 
described in the next §. On the whole 
it seems to be best defined by the line 
of the Lukmanier Pass, extending from 
Dissentis to the head of the Medelser 
Thai, thence to Olivone, and through 
the Val Blegno to Biasca. 

Though cut through by one of the 
greatest of alpine highways, and limited 
by passes much frequented by strangers, 
this small district includes some of the 
least known valleys of the Alps. Of 
these the Gerentlial, enclosed by a 
range of snowy peaks, the highest in 
this part of the chain, such as the Pizzo 
Rotondo (10,489'), Pizzo Pesciora 




ROUTE A.—ST. GOTHARD ROAD. 


259 


(10,246'), Kuhbodenhorn (10,082'), anti 
Galmihorner (10,063'), deserves the 
especial notice of travellers. 

That valley may be visited from 
Oberwald in the Valais, and the Mut- 
tenthal is equally accessible from 
Realp. The natural head-quarters for 
a mountaineer would be at the Hospice 
of the St. Gotharcl; but that place does 
not offer him tempting accommoda¬ 
tion, and it is doubtful whether lodging 
would be given for more than one 
night. The Val Canaria may form the 
object of an excursion from Airolo. 


Route A. 


FLUELEN TO BELLINZONA, BY 

THE 

GOTHARD 

BASS. 



Swiss 

Eng. 

leagues 

miles 

Amsteg . . . 

H 

ioi 

Wasen 

2$ 

?! 

Andermatt. . , 

2s 

6f 

Hospenthal . . 

i 

1! 

St. Gothard Hospice . 

n 

7! 

Airolo . 

2* 

7! 

Faido .... 

H 

9f 

Giornico . . . 

2* 

7 

Bodio .... 

5 

z 

2 I 

Biasca . . 


3* 

Bellinzona. . . 

4 

13! 


26| 

78 


Diligence twice daily each way in 
14^ to 15^- hrs. The same carriages go 
on to the rly. station at Camerlata near 
Como, and passengers reach Milan in 
24 to 26 hrs. Fares to Bellinzona : 
coupe, 27 fr. 20 c.; interior, 23 fr. 20 c. ; 
—to Milan: coupe , 44 fr. 5 c.; interior, 
36 fr. 45 c. Coupe secured in Lucerne. 
In summer a diligence runs by day be¬ 
tween Fluelen and Airolo, performing 
the journey in about 9 hrs. 

Voituriers (see Introduction, Art. 
IV.) abound on this line of road. The 
usual charges for a pair of horses with 
a tolerably good carriage are : Fluelen 
to Andermatt, 24 to 30 fr.—Andermatt 
to Airolo, 24 to 30 fr.— Airolo to Bel¬ 
linzona, 40 fr.—Bellinzona to Como 
via Lugano, 40 to 50 fr. 

The landlords of the chief hotels on 
the road have combined to supply car¬ 
riages and horses, at the higher rates 

s 


above mentioned, changing horses at 
the chief places on the way. Fluelen 
to Bellinzona, 100 fr.—to Como, 150 
fr.— paid at the. end of the journey. 
Carriages may be ordered from Lucerne 
or Como. The above charges do not 
include trinkgeld or buonamano to the 
driver: he expects from 2 to 3 fr. for 
each stage. There have been many 
complaints of the voituriers on this 
line. There is an understanding be¬ 
tween them and many of the innkeepers, 
who agree to pay a gratuity according 
to the number of the travellers, and of 
course add the amount to the bill. In 
making an agreement the traveller 
should take care to specify that the 
same carriage is to be taken throughout 
the journey. It should be stipulated 
that the price includes all charges for 
tolls, and if extra cattle be required in 
the ascent, owing to the weight of the 
luggage or the number of the party, 
the charge should be included in the 
price agreed upon. It should be dis¬ 
tinctly stated that the driver is to go 
to whatever inns the traveller mav 
select; and it is better not to announce 
beforehand the inns that may' be 
chosen, but to give orders to the driver 
when approaching the place at which 
he is to stop. When the agreement is 
not made with a man recommended by 
a respectable innkeeper, and in his 
presence, it is well to have it reduced 
to writing and signed by the person 
letting the carriage. 

Persons travelling with their own 
carriages may engage voiturier horses, 
for which they pay the same price as 
if they also engaged the carriage; or 
else may post, changing horses at 
Intschi, Andermatt, the Hospice, Airolo, 
Faido, and Bodio. The Swiss post 

1 should contain three leagues, but on 
this road the tariff distances exceed the 
true measurement given above, the 
distance to Bellinzona being reckoned 
9f posts or 29| stunden. 

The coupe in a Swiss diligence is 
comfortable, the country is better seen 
than from an ordinary caleche when 
covered, so that persons travelling in 

2 






2G0 LEPONTINE ALPS. § 30. 

haste may well avail themselves of that 
conveyance ; but a part of the journey 
is made by night. Those who wish 
fully to enjoy the scenery will take a 
vehicle from Fluelen to Amsteg, walk 
thence to Faido or Giornico, and then 
hire a carriage to Bellinzona. 

Those who make an excursion from 
the Lake of Lucerne to see the gorge 
of Schollinen and the Devil’s Bridge 
may hire a char to take them to Ander- 
matt and return to Fluelen for 24 fr., 
or a carriage and pair of horses for 
40 fr. 

The Pass of the St. Gothard does 
not seem to have been known to the 
Romans. The steepness of the shores 
of the Lake of Lucerne has even to the 
present time prevented the construction 
of a road between Fluelen and Lucerne. 
In the middle ages, when boat com¬ 
munication on the lake became fre¬ 
quent, the pass was adopted as a 
common route from Lombardy to the 
middle and north of Europe. Before 
the end of the thirteenth century a 
house of refuge, or hospice, was esta¬ 
blished at the place which still keeps 
the name Hospenthal. During the 
next century a hospice was erected at 
the summit, with a chapel dedicated to 
fit. Gothard, which has given to the 
pass its present name. Up to the year 
1820 the road was a broad track paved 
with slabs of granite, suitable for beasts 
of burden, but seemingly impassable 
for wheeled vehicles. To the great 
surprise of the inhabitants, an English 
traveller crossed it in his carriage in 
1775, and another of the same nation 
repeated the expb.it in 1793. 

The opening of the new carriage- 
roads over the Simplon and the Mont 
Cenis in the early part of this century, 
followed by the construction of those 
over the Splugen and Bernardino, made 
it necessary for the population on either 
side of the St. Gothard to follow the 
example, if they would not lose the 
advantages of the traffic. The present 
road was completed after some con¬ 
siderable delay between the years 1820 
and 1830. It is easy and safe, cx- 


ST. GOTHARD DISTRICT. 

cept in spring, ■when the avalanches 
are frequent in the gorge of Schollinen, 
and on the S. side of the pass. In 
winter passengers are taken in car¬ 
riages laid upon sledges as far as Hos¬ 
penthal, and from thence to Airolo in 
little open sledges about 2 ft. wide, 
each drawn by a single horse. In that 
season the passage is sometimes inter¬ 
rupted for several days by snow¬ 
storms. 

At the close of the last century the 
road of the St. Gothard was the chiet 
seat of some of the most remarkable 
military events recorded in history. 
They are so intimately connected with 
the scenes through which the traveller 
passes, that it seems impossible not to 
give in this place a brief sketch of the 
campaign. At the close of 1798 the 
French troops had crushed the des¬ 
perate resistance of the population of 
the Forest Cantons, and had established 
themselves on the shores of the Lake 
of Lucerne. In the spring of the fol¬ 
lowing year they advanced through 
the Canton Uri against an Austrian 
corps that occupied the valley of the 
Reuss and the St. Gothard Pass, drove 
their opponents down the Yal Leven- 
tina, atid detached a corps across the 
Oberalp Pass into the valley of the 
Vorder Rhine, where they sacked and 
burned the Abbey of Dissentis with the 
treasures of its famous library. A few 
days later the Austrians assumed the 
offensive, aided by the Swiss peasantry 
driven to desperation by hatred of the 
invader. Suchet was driven back 
across the Oberalp, and the main body 
under Lecourbe had to recross the St. 
Gothard. The defile of the Reuss was 
the scene of desperate fighting; the 
French had to yield, and by the 6th 
June the last man had embarked at 
Fluelen, and the vallev was clear of 
the enemy. Satisfied with this success, 
the Austrians remained for two months 
inactive. Their enterprising opponents 
made use of the interval to prepare a 
combined attack. Early in August 
two separate French corps advanced by 



ROUTE A.-VALLEY OF THE REUSS. 


201 


the Surcnen and Susten Passes, while 
the main body under Massena reached 
the lower end of the valley of the Reuss 
in a flotilla of boats. Once more the 
tide of war surged up the valley, as 
the Austrians, attacked on all sides, 
retired to the Devil’s Bridge, where, in 
the midst of a desperate encounter, the 
blowing up of an arch leading to the 
bridge sent the soldiers of both nations 
to find a common fate in the torrent 
below. The news of the approach of 
another body of French troops under 
Gudin, who had forced the passes of 
the Grimsel and the Furka, decided the 
Austrian retreat. They crossed the 
Oberalp, and left the French masters 
of Uri. 

Before a month "was out new actors 
appeared on the scene. An army of 
uncouth aspect, speaking a language 
unknown to the previous combatants, ad¬ 
vanced through the Val Leventina. This 
consisted of 18,000 Russian infantry 
with 5,000 Cossack cavalry, advancing 
under the old Suwarof to effect a junc¬ 
tion with the larger Russian force then 
operating in the North of Switzerland 
under Korsakof. Despite the skill 
and valour of the French resistance, 
the dogged courage and sheer weight 
of the Russians prevailed. Having 
twice advanced as victors, the French 
retired a second time across the 
St. Gothard. and after another deadly 
conflict yielded the defile of the Devil’s 
Bridge, which surely in that year de¬ 
served its name. In his retreat, Le- 
courbe, the French general, carried off 
or burned every boat upon the lake, 
and left the Russian general without 
apparent means for exit from a valley 
completely exhausted of food and 
necessaries. Suwarof lost no time. 
Knowing the impossibility of leading 
an army along the precipitous shores 
of the Bay of Uri, he entered the 
Schachenthal, E. of Altdorf, crossed the 
Kinzig Kuhn (§ 26, Rte. L), and de¬ 
scended upon Muotta, whence he ex¬ 
pected to force his way to Schwyz, and 
so reach the L. of Zurich, there to 
join the Russian forces. After some 


days’ sanguinary skirmishing in the 
valley below Muotta, he learned the 
defeat of Korsakof, and saw clearly 
that he was no longer fighting for 
victory, but to save his army from de¬ 
struction or captivity. Pursued by 
the French under Massena, he led his 
weary and half-starved troops over the 
Pragel Pass (§ 26, Rte. K) to Glarus, 
but there found that the outlet of the 
valley of the Linth towards Wesen was 
barred by a strong French force com¬ 
manded by Molitor. The only hope of 
escape from the toils of his pursuers 
was to find a passage for his men 
across some part of the chain dividing 
the Canton Glarus from the Grisons. 
The season was far advanced, and snow 
had already fallen on the mountains; 
but there was no hope of safety else¬ 
where, and accordingly the Russians 
left Glarus on the 5th of October, 
marched up the Sernfthal, and finally 
reached the Valley of the Rhine by the 
Panixer Pass, after a series of move¬ 
ments such as probably never before 
were accomplished by a regular army. 

Fluelen and Altdorf have been de¬ 
scribed in § 26. Rte. A. The valley of 
the Reuss opens due S. from Altdorf as 
far as the foot of the Bristenstock, 
where it bears somewhat to W. That 
fine peak is often in view from the 
high road, which is carried along the 
base of the mountains on the E. side of 
the valley. Near Schaddorf is held 
annually in May, with many curious 
antique usages, the general assembly 
(Landesgemeinde) of the Canton Uri. 
Every male citizen above 20 years 
of age, not being a priest, has a vote. 
In these assemblies questions of public 
importance are decided, and the officers 
of government elected for the ensuing- 
year. About 1| hr. from Altdorf is 
the opening of the Erstfeldertluil, a 
glen running deeply into the snowy 
range W. of the Titlis. Its head is 
closed by a glacier that descends be¬ 
tween the Schlossbery ( 10,263') and the 
Spanorter (10,492'); by it Mr. Sow- 
erby, one of the chief explorers of 





262 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 30. ST. GOTHARD DISTRICT. 


this district, made a pass to Engel- 
berg. 

Above the juncture of that glen 
the valley of the Reuss is contracted 
between the base of the Kleine 
Windgelle to the E. and a ridge di- 
verging from the Spanorter to the W. 
Near Silencn are the remains of several 
ruined castles that once guarded the 
passage, and a chapel dedicated to the 
‘Fourteen Helpers in Need,’ said to 
date from 1081. At the neighbouring 
hamlet of Evibach is the house of 
Joseph Maria Trbsch, formerly the 
best guide for the Maderanerthal. 
He is no longer able to undertake 
difficult expeditions. Another good 
guide, named Ambrose Zgraggen, of 
Silenen, is mentioned in Rte. B. To 
the 1. in approaching Amsteg is seen 
a green hillock with some remains of a 
ruined castle, believed to be that of 
Zwiiig Uri, built by Gessler, and de¬ 
stroyed in 1308 after the expulsion of 
the Austrian bailiffs. 

Amsteg (Inns : Weisses Kreuz, very 
good and reasonable country inn, but 
not in favour with the voituriers •. 
Hotel des Alpes, new, well spoken 
of; Hirsch, also good; Ochs; Stern; 
Lowe) lies at the junction of the Ma¬ 
deranerthal with the main valley of the 
Reuss. Though inconveniently low— 
1,713 ft. above the sea—it is well situa¬ 
ted for several interesting excursions, 
most of which are described in the next 
Rte. In the angle between the Reuss 
and the Karstelenbach, issuing from 
the Maderanerthal, rises the Bristen- 
stock, which is the most remarkable 
object in this part of the valley. Here 
the road crosses the Reuss and begins 
to ascend. An active walker may reach 
Andermatt as soon as a carriage. After 
gaining a fine view of the Great and 
Little Windgelle and the Scheerhorn, 
the traveller in b hr. reaches the post 
station at Intschi (2,190'), and a little 
farther passes a fall of the Intschibach, 
issuing from a wild ravine on the rt. 
called Zgraggenthal. At a second 
bridge 1 m. above Intschi the road re¬ 
turns to the rt. bank. The precipices ( 


of the Bristenstock, rising tier over tier 
to a height of nearly 8,000 ft. above the 
valley, are here very grand. On the 
opposite side the mountain is less steep, 
and the village of Gurtnellen is seen. 
The main valley ascends to the SSW., 
and due S. opens the Fellithal, famous 
for rare minerals. Dissentis may be 
reached that way by a pass ( Felligrat ?) 
leading direct to the Oberalp See. 

Here the road enters among the cry¬ 
stalline rocks, wherein gneiss and mica 
slate predominate, and it becomes clear 
to tbe eye of the geologist that the val¬ 
ley of the Reuss is a mere cleft, cut 
through the crystalline axis which ex¬ 
tends continuously from the chain of 
the Bernese Alps to that of the Todi. 
(See Introduction, art. Geology.) Saxi- 
fraga cotyledon is here not uncommon. 
The road lies for some miles through 
the Wasener Wald, formed of old 
weather-beaten pines rooted amid huge 
blocks fallen from the adjoining heights. 
The forest comes to an end at Wyler, 
and the road crosses a third bridge at 
the Pfaffensprung, a spot where the 
rocks are separated merely by a deep 
and narrow chasm cut by the Reuss. 
The name is derived from a popular 
tale of a monk with a girl in his arms 
■who cleared tbe abyss by a bold leap 
to save himself from his pursuers. The 
road traverses the Maienbach, issuing 
from the wild valley that leads to the 
Susten Pass (§ 25, Rte. E), and in 2 hrs. 
from Intschi reaches 

Wasen (Inns : H. des Alpes, new, 
well spoken of ; Ochs, rustic, not bad), 
a large village 3,068 ft. above the sea, 
much exposed to avalanches. On leaving 
the village, a waterfall of the Rohrbach 
is left on thert. This torrent descends 
from the Vorulpstock (lo,57S'), the SE. 
outlyer of the Spitzliberg, while on the 
opposite side of the valley rises the 
bolder peak of the Rienzerstock (9,777'), 
the western summit of the Crispalt range. 
The Reuss is traversed by a fourth 
bridge, and a mile farther the road re¬ 
turns to the 1. bank at the Schone 
Briieke. Here are seen the last patches 
of rye. A huge block of gneiss lying 





ROUTE A.-DEVIL’S BRIDGE. 


263 


by the roadside is called Teufelstein, 
having been dropped there by the devil 
when, on an errand of mischief, he hap¬ 
pened to meet an old woman who 
greeted him with ‘ God save you ! ’ 
Little mure than 2 m. above Wasen 
is Geschenen (Inn: Rossli, clean and 
reasonable ; Hotel des Alpes. This 
little village, 3,619 ft. above the sea, 
stands at the opening of the Geschenen- 
thaly one of the neglected valleys of the 
high Alps that has only lately begun to 
attract the attention and activity of 
mountaineers. [The main branch of 
the stream, called Geschenen Reuss, is 
fed by the Glaciers of the range ex¬ 
tending from the Winterberg to the 
Sustenhorn. The passes leading to it 
are briefly noticed in § 25. Rte. H ; but 
even those who do not undertake diffi¬ 
cult excursions will be well rewarded 
by following the track up the valley to 
the foot of the Kehle Glacier. The 
chief hamlet of the valley, a group of 
20 or 30 houses, is reached in 3 hrs. 
from Geschenen ; a pass leads thence to 
Realp. Another branch of the same 
torrent leads to the ridge connecting the 
Sustenhorn with the Spitzliberg, and 
by it the traveller may reach the head 
of the Maienthal, on the E. side of the 
Susten Pass. A cave called Sandbalm 
at the upper end of the valley has been 
very productive of fine quartz crystals.] 
On leaving Geschenen the hign road 
crosses the Reuss by the Haderli 
Briicke, and enters the famous gorge 
of Schollinen, whose savage grandeur 
can scarcely be fully appreciated ex¬ 
cept by those who traverse it on foot. 
Between rugged walls of rock, almost 
completely bare of verdure, the Reuss 
rages in an almost uninterrupted ca¬ 
taract, while the road, sometimes creep¬ 
ing along the face of the precipice, 
sometimes mounting by zigzags, once 
and again spanning the breadth of the 
valley by a single arch, triumphs over 
the obstacles that nature has set to 
man’s progress. For the seventh time 
since Amstag the Reuss is crossed by 
the Sprengi Briicke, at a point where 
it makes a fine cascade. This part of 


the route is dangerous in spring, 
owing to the frequent avalanches. 
Recesses are cut into the rock at 
some points to give shelter to foot- 
passengers, and in one place the road 
is completely covered with a massive 
stone gallery, 80 yards long. Wooden 
crosses by the wayside commemorate 
fatal accidents. At length, on turning 
the corner of a rock, the traveller 
reaches the point where the stern 
sublimity of the scene attains its 
climax, and the stream is crossed for 
the last time at the Devil's Bridge 
(Germ. Teufelsbriicke). Issuing from a 
gorge enclosed between vertical walls of 
gneiss, the Reuss is hurried onward from 
cataract to cataract till it is reduced to 
a roaring mass of foam. Here the 
ancient road, partly hollowed out of 
the rock, partly supported by solid 
masonry or upon arches, was carried 
across the chasm, barely out of reach of 
the spray, by a slight-looking circular 
arch without parapets, and but 5 or 
6 ft. wide. Unduly ascribed to that 
great popular architect, the devil, the 
old bridge appears to have been built in 
1118 ‘by Abbot Gerald of Einsiedlen.’ 
—[M.] Amidst the conflict of the 
elements, and the no less furious strife 
of hostile armies, the ancient, seem¬ 
ingly fragile structure has survived, 
offering a striking contrast to the new- 
massive bridge over which the present 
road is carried. However prepared 
the traveller may be by the many 
attempts of writers and artists to de¬ 
pict the scene, it is one of those that 
can scarcely disappoint expectation. 
As he stands on the modern bridge, he 
can scarcely avoid recalling the des¬ 
perate encounters between the troops 
of three nations that connect the name 
of this spot with the campaign of 1799; 
and he will soon persuade himself that 
even in regard to such recent events, 
popular history is largely compounded 
of the mythical element. The time¬ 
worn aspect of the old bridge shows 
that it was not then blown up, as is 
commonly asserted, but only an arch 
leading to it—the reason being clearly 



264 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 30. ST. GOTHARD DISTRICT. 


that neither general would lose the 
necessary means for advancing or re¬ 
treating through the valley. Neither 
is it true that the passage was forced, 
either by the French against the Aus¬ 
trians, or by the Russians against the 
French. On each occasion the retreat 
of the retiring army was decided by 
the appearance of hostile troops on 
dank or rear. 

There is a scene, sometimes wit¬ 
nessed by travellers who pass this way 
in winter, that exceeds all that the 
imagination can picture to itself of the 
fury of human warfare. A winter 
storm in the gorge of Schollinen is an 
event never to be forgotten by one 
who has beheld it. The howling and 
shrieking of the blast only at intervals 
allow the hoarser roar of the torrent 
to reach the ear, and the surrounding 
crags are but dimly seen amid the 
drifting snow that is swept along 
through the cleft of the valley. At 
such times the country people who 
have need to ascend or descend 
through the valley take refuge in the 
galleries above and below the Devil’s 
Bridge, and when it becomes neces¬ 
sary to risk the passage, creep over on 
hands and knees in order to avoid as 
far as may be the incredible fury of the 
wind at that point. 

Above the Devil’s Bridge the Reuss 
is enclosed between precipices so steep 
that there is no room for a goat to 
pass. Up to the beginning of the 
18th century the only mode of access 
to the upper valley was by a wooden 
platform, partly supported on props, 
partly hung by iron chains rivetted to 
the rocks above. In 1707 a tunnel or 
gallery, 210 ft. long, called Urner Loch, 
was pierced through the rocks on the rt. 
bank. This was afterwards enlarged 
to allow the passage of carriages. 
There are few more extraordinary 
contrasts than that which awaits the 
traveller as he issues from the S. end 
of the Urner Loch. He has left behind 
him a scene unsurpassed for stern rug¬ 
gedness; he emerges upon a peaceful 
upland basin, where green level mea¬ 


dows stretch for 3 or 4 m. amidst 
mountains of comparatively moderate 
height and gentle slope. The first 
impression of the upper valley of the 
Reuss, or Urserenthal, is pleasing, but 
the absence of bold features in the 
scene, and the scarcity of timber, make 
it somewhat monotonous. Cut ofif by 
an impassable defile from the lower 
part of the Canton Uri, it was ori¬ 
ginally peopled from the valley of the 
Yorder Rhein, and was long a depend¬ 
ency of the abbots of Dissentis. The 
construction of the Devil’s Bridge, and 
of a practicable path, brought the 
inhabitants into connexion with their 
neighbours of Uri, and they joined that 
canton in the 14th century. Scarcely 
1 m. beyond the Urner Loch is 
Andermntt (Inns: H. Helvetia, new, 
handsome house ; Hotel Gotthard, good 
and reasonable, pension 7 Ir. a day ; 
H. Oberalp, new and good; Bellevue; 
Drei Kouige). This little village (ltal 
Orsera) stands 4,730 ft. above the sea, 
near the site of a former village de¬ 
stroyed by avalanches. This is threat¬ 
ened with the same fate. In 1799 it 
was pillaged by the French ; gutted 
jy the famishing liussians, who de¬ 
voured everything, even to candles, 
soap, and skins; but, worse than all, 
both armies felled a great part of the 
forest on the slope of the Giirschen- 
stock, S. of the village, which is its 
only protection against the spring 
avalanches. In that horrible year 
three-fourths of the inhabitants were 
slaughtered, and the remainder re¬ 
duced to beggary. This has long 
been a halting-place for travellers 
passing the St. Got hard, but of late 
years it has, as well as Hospenthal, 
become frequented by persons who 
find here mountain air, good accom¬ 
modation, and some interesting moun¬ 
tain excursions. There is a good 
collection of alpine birds made by 
M. Nager. Fine minerals are kept for 
sale by two or three persons in tho 
village. Of mountain excursions the 
most frequently made are those to the 
Oberalp Pass and Oberalp See, and 



KOUTE A.—ST. GOTHARD PASS. 


265 


that to the summit of the Badus, both 
described in § 27, Rte. C. A guide is 
necessary for the latter expedition. 
The Fibbia and the Lucendro lake, 
near the summit of the St. Gothard 
Pass, may be visited from hence, but 
better still, from Hospenthal. The 
Bannwald, or protected forest, where 
it is forbidden under heavy penalties to 
cut or injure the trees, is now much 
reduced in dimensions. The botanist 
will find there MuJgedium alpinum , 
Hieracium picroides, and some orher 
interesting plants. Mountaineers in¬ 
tent on alpine expeditions may here 
engage as porter a man named Russi, 
no longer young, but still strong, 
active, and cheerful. 

Rather more than 1^ m. of level 
road leads the traveller from Ander- 
matt to Hospenthal (Inns: Meyerhof, a 
large handsome house, first-class ac¬ 
commodation and prices ; Goldener 
Lowe, or Lion d’Or, good, kept by the 
same proprietor, who has a large stock 
of horses and carriages to let). Mi¬ 
nerals, for which the neighbourhood is 
famous, may be bought here. There 
are no remains of the ancient hospice 
that gave its name to the village, but a 
remarkable tower that overlooks the 
place is of the Lombard period. This 
is the point where the track from the 
Furka Pass (Rte. C) meets the high 
road, just at the commencement of the 
ascent to the St. Gothard Pass. 

The traveller, whose expectations are 
heightened by the grand scenery that 
he has traversed in approaching from 
either side the ridge forming the actual 
Pass of St. Gothard, is apt to feel some 
disappointment as he reaches the part 
of the road where he naturally hopes to 
find scenes of the most striking charac¬ 
ter. It must be owned that as compared 
with most other passes over the main 
chain this is deficient in objects of in¬ 
terest. The neighbouring peaks are of 
very moderate height, and those seen 
from the road scarcely rise more than 
2,000 ft. above the summit level. The 
road mounts by zigzags from Hospen- 
thal on the 1. bank of the branch of the 


Rcuss that descends from the Lucendro 
lake near the pass. The other branch 
flows past Hospenthal from Realp (Rte. 
C). Passengers taking the short cuts 
may not only make the ascent, but reach 
Airolo on the other side some time 
before the diligence. This can be re¬ 
commended only to active walkers used 
to the mountains. A mistake in the way 
might lead a stranger into difficulties, 
and expose him to the inconvenience of 
losing his place. In 1 hr. from Hospen¬ 
thal the road passes by a house of refuge, 
where refreshments are said to be sold 
at exorbitant rates. The boundary of 
the Canton Tessin is passed at some dis¬ 
tance below the Roduntbriicke, which is 
2 hrs. above Hospenthal. Here the Reuss 
is crossed for the last time about 1 m. 
from the \\it\c Lago diLucendro { 6,834'). 
A mountaineer would probably find no 
difficulty in attaining from thence the 
summit of the Pizzo di Vinei (or Lucen¬ 
dro), 9,708 ft. in height, lying SSW. of 
the lake, but not seen from the road. 

At the Roduntbriicke commences the 
nearly level, dreary plateau that, forms 
the summit of the pass. It is feared in 
winter, on account of the tourmente 
that surprises travellers, and not seldom 
bewilders and overpowers them before 
they are able to attain a place of refuge. 
About 1 m. beyond the bridge is the 
summit, 6,936 ft. above the sea. Many 
pools lie in the depressions of the granite 
on either side of the top. Nearly £ m. 
farther, and but 69 fit. lower, is the 

Hospice , or refuge for poor travellers, 
maintained by voluntary contributions, 
aided by a small grant from the Canton 
Tessin. This is said to be well con¬ 
ducted, under two lay managers, besides 
a chaplain, who keeps a meteorological 
register. As many as 20,000 rations 
of bread, soup, and coffee are given here 
gratuitously every year. A small con¬ 
tribution from the passing traveller will 
not be misplaced. Close at hand is the 
post station, and in the same building 
an Inn of uninviting appearance. Op¬ 
posite to this is a small new Inn, well 
spoken of. The buildings here are 
on the most massive scale, intended 






2G6 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 30. 

to resist the furious storms that not 
rarely assail them, and to keep out 
the severitv of the winter cold. The 
Hospice lies midway between two 
summits of about equal height—the 
Sasso di San Gottardo (8,983'), and 
La Fibbia (8,996'). The latter is now 
often ascended, even by ladies, and is 
said to command a fine alpine panorama. 
The ascent and return to the Hospice 
are made in 4 hrs., exclusive of halts, 
and may be easily taken in a day’s walk 
from Andermattor Hospenthalto Airolo. 
A longer excursion is the ascent of the 
Tritthorn (about 10,000'), NE. of the 
Sasso di San Gottardo ; about 4 hrs. 
from the Hospice to the summit, which 
commands a very extensive panorama. 
The view has been published, and will 
be found, along with photographs of 
the neighbourhood, at the new Inn. 
Within \ m. from the Hospice the road 
reaches the S. verge of the plateau, and 
at once commences to descend by nu¬ 
merous zigzags into a ravine called Val 
Tremola, ill famed for the many fatal 
accidents that have happened there from 
spring avalanches. Large numbers of 
men and horses have ere no\v been 
swept away at once by a single ava¬ 
lanche. This locality has given its name 
to a mineral—called Tremolite—which 
is here abundant. The present road 
appears to follow a much safer course 
than the ancient track. Foot-passengers 
follow a very steep course by which 
they may descend to Airolo in little 
more than 1 hr. from the Hospice. The 
dangerous part of the Yal Tremola is 
passed when the road, ceasing to zigzag, 
reaches a sort of shelf in the slope of 
the mountain, and passes a new Refuge 
(5,584'), built by the Cantonal authori¬ 
ties. Here the old track crosses the 
torrent, leading by a shorter way to 
Airolo, while the high road continues 
for some way along the rt. bank of the 
stream, and after passing it lower down, 
finallv reaches the level of the valley, 
^ m. from 

Airolo —Germ. Eriels—(Inns: Posta; 
Tre Re; belonging to same proprietor, 
very fair accommodation). This is the 


ST. GOTHARD DISTRICT. 

chief place in the upper valley of the 
Ticino—called Val Bedretto —extend¬ 
ing about 11 m. westward to the Nufenen 
Pass (Rte. D). Although there is a 
sensible change of climate as compared 
with valleys of equal elevation on the 
N. side of the main chain, this lies too 
high (Airolo being 3,868 ft. above the 
sea), and is too completely surrounded 
by mountains, to exhibit the character¬ 
istic vegetation of the Italian valleys. 
The language and appearance of the 
people, and the aspect of the buildings, 
tell of Italy; but there is not that abrupt 
transition from the north to the south 
that awaits the traveller who crosses the 
Cenis, the Simplon, or some other passes 
of the Alps. Close to Airolo is the open¬ 
ing of the Yal Canaria, noticed in Rte. E. 

Below Airolo the valley of the Ticino 
bears the name Val Leventina. The 
upper portion, as far as Giornico, 
abounds in beautiful scenery, and the 
gradual change in the vegetation is 
especially interesting to those who enter 
Italy for the first time. Few valleys 
abound more in waterfalls, of which but 
a few are here mentioned. The road 
keeps at first to the 1. bank, and about 
1 m. from Airolo traverses a tunnel 
close to the remains of a tower attri¬ 
buted to the Lombard king Desiderius. 
On high ground to the 1. stands the 
village of Madrano, "whence a path 
leads to the Medelserthal by the Uomo 
Pass (Rte.G). A little farther the road 
passes opposite to the waterfall of 
Calcaccia, on the S. side of the valley. 
Here the traveller enters the defile of 
Stalvedro, obstinately defended by the 
French, in 1799, against a greatly su¬ 
perior force of Russian troops. The 
road crosses to the rt. bank, traverses 
the hamlets of Piotta and Ambri, where 
the valley widens, and corn-fields give 
evidence of a milder climate. On the 
opposite bank is the large village of 
Quinto. At Dazio Grande (3,059'). 
where the road passes a toll-house and 
country Inn, it enters a second defile oi 
grander proportions than the first—one 
of the most striking scenes in the en¬ 
tire route. The Tessin here forces its 




ROUTE A.—YAL LEVENTINA. 


267 


way through a cleft in the Monte Piot- 
tino, or Platifer. This offers at once a 
likeness and a contrast to the gorge of 
Schollinen by which the traveller ap¬ 
proached the pass on the N. side. Less 
savage and awful, this is certainly not 
less beautiful. Instead of a few stunted 
and shattered pines, deciduous trees 
and shrubs here cling to the crevices of 
the rocks and crown the heights, soften¬ 
ing the sternness of the scene. In the 
early summer the beautiful Saxifraga 
cotyledon decks the rocks. Until the 
carriage-road was carried through the 
defile, it was necessary to make a long 
ascent, and still longer descent, in order 
to reach Faido. The first course adopted 
for the road was close to the river, and 
partly sustained on arches along its 
bed; but this was carried away by the 
great storms of 1834 and 1839, and 
the present line is conducted at a con¬ 
siderable height above the stream. It 
traverses three short tunnels, and before 
issuing from the detile passes a pretty 
waterfall. The vine has made its ap¬ 
pearance, and the chestnut has become 
the prevailing tree, before reaching 
Faido— Germ. Plaid—(Inns : An¬ 
gelo, good ; Prince of Wales, new), the 
chief place of the Middle Val Leventina, 
2,366 ft. above the sea. In 1755 the 
people of Tessin, who had long been 
oppressed by their masters, the Cantons 
Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden, made 
an unsuccessful effort to throw off the 
yoke. The heads of their leaders were 
here taken off in the presence of the 
assembled people. Two waterfalls, of 
which the finest is that of Piumegna, 
may be visited by any one halting here. 
Below Faido the Val Leventina as¬ 
sumes a more completely Italian cha¬ 
racter than it had done above the defile 
of Lazio Grande. The course of the 
stream, which was a little S. of E. on 
leaving Airolo, bends first to SE., finally 
nearly due S., and the road with short 
exceptions keeps to the 1. bank. The 
climate becomes warmer, and popula¬ 
tion more numerous, as the traveller 
descends the valley. At Cltiyyiogna is 
a very ancient church, and a tower of 


uncertain origin. Amidst beautiful 
scenery enriched by many new objects 
of interest, amongst which is the water¬ 
fall of Gribiasca, and traversing another 
defile, he reaches 

Giornico —Germ. Irnis — (Inns: ‘H. 
dn Cerf, clean; Corona, dirty’ [M. J.], 
one of the most interesting places on 
this route. The passing traveller 
should make a point of halting here. 
The position is extremely fine. 

On the rt. bank opposite the village 
a bold mountain mass — Cima delle 
Pecore — rises abruptly to a great 
height, while the valley below is clothed 
with the rich foliage of the chestnut, 
and the fig-tree begins to make its 
appearance. There are here two an¬ 
cient churches, very curious in their 
architecture and ornamentation. These 
are ‘ the Ch. of Santa Maria di Castello , 
whose substructure is said to exhibit 
traces of a fort, attributed to the 
Gauls (?) ; and the Ch. of San Nicola 
da Mira , regarded by the vulgar as 
originally a heathen temple. Both 
these churches are certainly examples 
of the earliest form of Christian build¬ 
ings, and highly deserve the attention 
of the architect and antiquary. Ser¬ 
vice is not performed in San Nicola, 
though it is kept in repair. The archi¬ 
tecture is of the rudest Romanesque 
style, and the E. end offers, perhaps, 
the most unaltered specimen of the 
choir raised upon substructions that 
can hardly be called a crvpt, found in 
the ancient Lombard churches of Italy, 
distinguished by staircases, whereas it 
here subsists in its primitive form.’— 
[M.] Half-way between Giornico and 
Bodio are the Sassi Grossi, huge blocks 
of stone, that serve as monuments of an 
extraordinary victory gained in Decem¬ 
ber, 1478, by a small force of Swiss 
over the army of the Duke of Milan. 

Bodio (with two Inns) is the post 
station, | hr. from Giornico, nearly 
opposite the opening of the Val d’Am- 
bra, by which a path leads to the Val 
Verzasca(§32). Lessthan 4m.fartheris 

Bianca (Inn : Unione. not good nor 
clean), a large village at the junction of 





268 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 30. ST. GOTHARD DISTRICT. 


the Yal Blegno (Rte. F) with the main 
valley. One of the snowy peaks of the 
Adula Alps is seen through the open¬ 
ing. Cretins abound here. For a 
notice of the bergfall of 1512, see 
Rte. F. 

The lower part of the Yal Leventina 
extending to the Lago Maggiore is 
called Riviera. Here the vallev of the 
Ticino expands, the mountains leaving 
between their bases a broad level 
space, which is often defaced by the 
overflow of the river. Though the 
scenery is not uninteresting, it is apt 
to lose by comparison with the beauty of 
the upper valley from Airolo to this point. 

The villages of Osogna , Cresciano, 
and Claro are passed in succession. 
Near the latter are some ruins of a 
castle, once held by the Dukes of Milan; 
and a short distance farther, fully 11 m. 
from Biasea, the road reaches the 
junction of the Yal Misocco with the 
valley of the Tessin. The road of the 
Bernardino (§31, Rte. A) meets that 
of the St. Gothard at the N. side of a 
massive bridge over the Moesa, where 
this enters the main valley close to the 
battle-field of Albedo. That village, 
lying to the 1. of the road, has given its 
name to one of the few fights where, in 
the heroic age of their history, the 
valour of the Swiss failed to compen¬ 
sate inferiority of numbers. Used to 
encounter fearful odds, 3,000 Swiss 
here withstood, in 1422, a Milanese 
armv of 24,000 men under Count Car- 
magnola, one of the first generals of 
the time. From early morning till 
nightfall the children of the Alps 
held firm, rooted to the ground, and 
dealing slaughter around on their as¬ 
sailants. Most of their leaders and 
more than half their force had fallen, 
when darkness enabled the survivors 
to retreat. The banner of Zug, carried 
safely out of the fearful fray, when 
man after man who held it had been 
struck to death, is still shown in the 
arsenal of the Canton. 

More than 2 m. of hot and dusty 
road lead from the bridge over the 
Moesa to 


Bellinzona (Inns : Angelo, best) 
Hotel de la Yille, formerly Aquila 
d’Oro, many complaints of late), the 
chief town of the valley of the Ticino, 
dividing with Lugano and Locarno the 
rank of capital of the Canton Tessin. 
The aspect of the town from without is 
extremely picturesque. Its position 
near the junction of the valleys lead- 
ins: to the St. Gothard and the Bcr- 
nardino Passes to the N.,and the roads 
to the Lago Maggiore and Lake of 
Lugano to the S., makes it the key to 
this entrance into Italy. It appears to 
have been held as a fortified station 
by the Gauls and the Romans, as it 
undoubtedly has been since the 13ti, 
century, and is still maintained as a 
fortress by the Swiss Confederation. 
When the greater part of the present 
Canton Tessin w'as finally reduced to 
the condition of obedience to the three 
Urkantone, Schwyz, Uri, and Unter- 
walden, the latter ruled the land jointly 
by governors who inhabited the three 
castles that still overlook the town, 
and used as absolute a sway over the 
subject people as that of the Austrian 
bailiffs against whom they had them¬ 
selves revolted two centuries before. 
The Castello Grande, once occupied by 
the Uri governor, is now an arsenal 
and cantonal prison. Admission is 
given to strangers (charge 1 fr.) who 
go to admire the fine view. The Cas¬ 
tello di Mezzo, seat of the Unterwalden 
governor, and Castello Corbario be¬ 
longing to Schwyz, now form part of 
the fortifications of the town. From 
many places in the neighbourhood, 
especially the church of Sta. Maria 
della Salute, the Castello Grande above 
mentioned, and the Augustinian mo¬ 
nastery, there are fine views over the 
valley extending to the Lago Mag¬ 
giore. A longer walk is that to the 
gorge of the Sementina, a picturesque 
ravine opening on the rt. from the 
road to Locarno, about 2 m. from the 
town. 

The interior of the town has nothing 
that need detain a traveller coming 
from Italy, but one who is crossing the 





ROUTE B.—KLEIN : WINDGELLE. 


269 


Alps for the first time will be inter¬ 
ested by the general aspect of the 
buildings and the people, by the prin¬ 
cipal church enriched with marbles 
and bas-reliefs, and bv the very ancient 
church of San Biagio near the Lugano 
gate. 

The roads to Locarno and Magadino 
are described in § 32, Rte. A, and that 
to Lugano in § 33, Rte. C. 

The botanist arriving from the Alps 
will here find several southern species 
not often seen in Central Europe, 
such as Anchusa angustifolia , Centaurea 
splendens, Andropogon Uryllus, &c. To 
the naturalist, as well as the lover of 
scenery, Locarno is a far more tempting 
stopping-place. 


Route B. 

EXCURSIONS FROM AM3TEG — ASCENTS 
OF THE GREAT AS[D LITTLE WIND¬ 
GELLE AND THE BRISTENSTOCK. 

The Maderanerthal, which joins the 
valley of the Reuss at Amsteg on the 
road of the St. Gothard, is described in 
§ 27, Rte. B, in connection with the 
passage of the Clariden Grat, separat¬ 
ing it from the head of the valley of 
the Linth. It is the point whence the 
two fine peaks of the Windgelle, lying 
N. of that valley, and that of the Bris- 
tenstock on the opposite side, may best 
be ascended. It seems convenient to 
describe these, and a few other, excur¬ 
sions under a separate heading. 

Referring to the description of the 
Maderanerthal for some remarks on 
the topography and nomenclature ol 
the adjoining ranges, it will be seen 
that the Kleine Windgelle is the cor¬ 
rect name for the westernmost peak of 
the Clariden Alps, but that the same 
peak is called Grosse Windgelle in the 
Maderanerthal, while the people of the 
same valley apply the name Kalkstock 
to the peak properly entitled to the 
name Grosse Windgelle. Ambrose 


Zgraggen and Franz Zurfluh are the 
best guides in the valley; Jos. Maria 
Trosch is out of health, but Melchior 
Trosch, a younger man, is well spoken 
of. It must be remembered that Am¬ 
steg lies low—at 1,713 ft.—and that the 
ascent of any of the higher peaks from 
thence is long and fatiguing. It is there¬ 
fore desirable either to start very early, 
some time before daylight, or else to 
sleep at some of the chalets on the way. 

Ascent of the Kleine Windgelle 
(9,848'). An account of this expedi¬ 
tion, made in 18'44, was given by the 
late George Hoffmann, in the first se- 
series of Berg- und Gletscher-Falrten. 
He was followed in 1862 by the Rev. 
John Sowerby. 

Hoffmann ascended directly from 
Amsteg in hr. to the chalets of 
Waldiberg, then in 1 hr. more to those 
of Niederstaffeli, and in f hr. more to 
those of Oberstaffeli, the highest on the 
SW. side of the mountain. A cattle- 
track leads thence in 1 hr. up a steep 
slope to the base of a belt of rock called 
Stuck Wand, that forms the upper 
limit of the alpine pastures. A stiff 
scramble follows, difficult enough to 
make progress rather slow. In ap¬ 
proaching the highest peak Hoffmann 
found large blocks of green and red 
porphyry, but has given no particulars 
as to the relation between this rock 
and the limestone strata of which the 
mountain is mainly composed. On 
the last peak, and only 200 or 300 ft. 
below the top, an abundant spring of 
pure water bursts out from the rock, 
and disappears again immediately in 
some of the clefts. The last rocks 
appear quite inaccessible, but the 
summit is attained, without much 
further trouble, in 8 hrs., exclusive of 
halts, from Amsteg, by passing round 
to the E. side of the peak. In its main 
particulars the view is much the same 
though less extensive than that from 
the higher peaks next noiiced; but the 
rocks of the Grosse Windgelle present 
a very grand appearance from this 
point, rising more than 600 ft. above 
the spectator. Mr. Sowerby. with A 




270 LEPONTINE ALPS. § 30 , ST. GOTHARD DISTRICT. 


Zgraggen, took a longer but easier | 
course. ‘ Following the path of the 
Maderanerthal for a short distance be¬ 
yond Bristen, we took a path on the 1. 
up to Golzern. Keeping above this, 
and rather to the rt., we gained the 
hollow between the Great and Little 
Windgelle, not far from the glacier 
called the Aelpli-Firn. We were now 
level with the shaly terrace which 
separates the upper and lower precipices 
of the mountain. This w T e followed, 
till we reached a gap in the fortress 
above us, through which we easily 
gained the summit in 6^- hrs. from 
Amsteg. ’—[J.S.] 

The hollow between the Great and 
Little Windgelle, which is easily reached 
in 4 hrs. from Amstiig, is composed 
of Schrattenkalk (see Introduction, art. 
Geology), which is here split up in 
a wonderful way. ‘ Some of the rents 
are several ft. in width, and 40 or 50 
ft. deep. — [J.S.] 

Ascent of the Grosse Windgelle 
(10,403'). The extreme steepness of 
this peak, and the fact that it is com¬ 
posed of limestone, always less safe 
than crystalline rocks, had procured 
for it a reputation for inaccessibility 
when George Hoffmann undertook the 
expedition in 1848. His two guides, 
J. M. and Melchior Trosch, being sent 
in advance to reconnoitre, reached the 
summit for the first time, and after 
some delays, owing to bad weather, 
they led that traveller to the top some 
15 days later. The best starting-point 
is the Alp of Bernertsmatt, reached in 
4^ hrs. from Amsteg. The peak is 
formed of limestone rock, bare alike 
of snow and of vegetation, presenting 
a nearly vertical face to the W., but 
less steep to the SW., where a small 
glacier, called Staff’d Glacier, abuts 
against the base of the rocks. After 
encountering some difficulty in passing 
from the glacier to the rock, they 
found the greater part of the ascent (as 
often happens) much less difficult than 
it appears when seen from a distance. 
In one place it was necessary to pass 
along the top of a connecting wall of 


1 rock only about 1 ft. broad, with a pre- 
! cioice on either hand. Hoffmann re¬ 
marks that the ascent cannot be under¬ 
taken when the rocks are wet after rain 
or fresh snow, as they then become dan¬ 
gerously slippery. In less than 5 % hrs. 
from the alp the summit was gained. 
A second and equally high point, less 
than 100 yards distant, is separated by 
a deep impassable chasm, and seems in¬ 
accessible. The second ascent in 1864, 
by MM. Raillard and Finiger, and the 
third, in 1866, by Mr. Sowerby, were 
accomplished in much less time. 

Ascent of the Bristenstock (10,089'). 
This excursion has been rather fre¬ 
quently made of late years, and its 
popularity is doubtless owing in great 
measure to the account given by Mr. E. 
S. Kennedy in the first series of ‘ Peaks , 
Passes, and Glaciers That interesting 
narrative went to show that even very 
experienced mountaineers may be in¬ 
volved in serious difficulties by inat¬ 
tention to the rules of their art. There 
is one way up from Amsteg, now well 
known to several of the guides at that 
place, by which the summit is reached 
without serious difficulty, but not with¬ 
out labour, as an ascent of more than 
8,000 ft. is always a considerable day’s 
work. Excluding halts, 7 hrs. should 
be allowed for the ascent, aud from 4 
to 5 hrs. for the descent. It is said 
that the easiest way to the top is from 
the side of the Fellithal. By sleeping 
at some of the chalets in that wild 
glen, a traveller, with a competent 
guide, may reach Amsteg over the top 
of the Bristenstock. It is better placed 
for a view than any of its neighbours, as 
its position commands a great part of 
the valley of the Reuss and the bay of 
Uri, in addition to an alpine panorama 
of great extent. 

The Gross Ruchi (10,295') was 
climbed for the first time in 1864 by 
Mr. Sowerby, and 9 days later by *a 
party of the Swiss Alpine Club. Start¬ 
ing from the new inn at Waldibalm, a 
path ascends the slopes leading to the 
chalets of Alpgnover, standing on a ter¬ 
race that runs for miles along the N. 





ROUTE C.—TURK A PASS. 


271 


Bide of the valley. A very beautiful 
path leads thence to Bristen by Bernerts- 
matt. To climb the Ruchi it is neces¬ 
sary to reach the glacier on the E. side 
of the peak dividing it from the Klein 
Ruchi. The ascent is laborious. The 
summit looks sheer down into the 
northern Brunnithal leading to Enter 
Schachen. 

The Diissistock (10,702') appears to 
have been first attained in 1842 by M. 
Escher v. der Linth, and a few times 
since that date. It rises very boldly 
from the S. side of the Hiifi Gl., and on 
the opposite side overlooks the Tscfnngel 
Glacier, a considerable ice-field occu¬ 
pying a high plateau between Yal Cav- 
rein and the Brunnithal. The peak is 
reached with little difficulty by ascend¬ 
ing from this glacier by the ridge 
leading N. to the summit. 

Route C. 

HOSPENTHAL TO OBERGESTELEN, BY 
THE FURKA PASS. 



Hrs.’ 

Fng. 


walking 

miles 

Realp 


4 

Furka Pass 

n 

C 

Rhone Gletscher Tnn 

2 

H 

Ooergesteleu . 

2 

H 


8 

20 


Diligence from Andermatt to Bricg daily in 
12 hrs. 

The Furka Pass connects the head 
of the valley of the Rhone with that of 
the Urserenthal, which, as mentioned 
in Rte. A, contains the main source of 
the Reuss. This is the natural course 
for those who would pass from the 
Upper Valais to the road of the St. 
Gothard, and since the new carriage- 
road over the pass has been completed, 
it is more than ever frequented by tour¬ 
ists. In fine weather the view from the 
top compensates those who pass this way 
for the tedium of the ascent from Hos- 
penthal, which is monotonous and un¬ 
interesting ; but the Susten Pass (§ 25, 
Rte. E) affords a far more attractive 
route for those who wish to pass from 
the valley of Hasli to that of the Reuss. 

Leaving the !St. Gothard Road(Rte. A) 


at Hospenthal, the traveller follows the 
new road along the nearly level floor 
of the Urserenthal, by the rt. bank of 
the Reuss, till this is crossed about ^ hr. 
below 

(Inns : Hotel des Alpes, good; 
Zum Realp Hospiz, formerly used as a 
hospice, excellent wine. The hamlet 
is 5,034 ft. above the sea, only 246 ft. 
higher than Hospenthal. For the Loch- 
berg Pass, leading nearly due N. from 
hence to the chief hamlet in the Ges- 
chenentlial, see § 25, Rte. H. 

[A short distance above Realp, on 
the S. side of the valley, is the opening 
of the Muttenthal, an alpine glen, de¬ 
serving more attention than it has yet 
received from travellers. It is divided 
into two main branches, both leading to 
glaciers which are the most consider¬ 
able in the St. Gothard range. The 
SW. branch, retaining the name Mut¬ 
tenthal, leads to some chalets (6,949) 
close to the foot of the Mutten Glacier. 
The range enclosing the glacier sinks 
but little below 10,000 ft. but a pass 
might doubtless be effected to the Ge- 
renthal, through which the traveller 
could descend to Oberwald. The S. 
branch of the Muttenthal terminates on 
one side in the Wyttenwasser Glacier 
Farther to the E. it may probably be no 
difficult thing to traverse the main 
chain immediately W. of the Pizzo di 
Vinei, and to descend to the village of 
Bedretto. The ridge must be about 
9,000 ft. in height ] 

Above Realp the road to the Furka 
begins to mount, at first gently, then by 
steep zigzags up the treeless slopes on 
the N. side of the valley. When it has 
attained a height of about 6,800 ft., it 
winds along ascending very gently. 
There is little to attract attention, ex¬ 
cept in the early summer, before the cattle 
have been turned loose on t v he alp, when 
it is adorned by a profusion of flowers 
including most of the characteristic spe¬ 
cies of the Central Alps. Towards the 
summit there are almost always some 
patches of snow beside the road. In 
ascending from Realp nearly 3 hrs. 
must, be allowed, but in descending 




1 

272 LEPONTINE ALPS. § 30 . ST. GOTnARD DISTRICT. 


2 hrs. suffice for the distance between 
that place and the 

Furka Pass (7,992'). The ridge is 
very narrow, and the traveller is sud¬ 
denly presented with a view that makes 
him foruet the dullness of the ascent. 
The Oberland Alps arc here seen from 
an unaccustomed point of view, and the 
Finsteraarhorn especially presents an 
aspect of rare grandeur. Within the 
last few years an Inn has been opened 
at the summit, and supplies very fair 
accommodation at not unreasonable 
prices. The pass lies between two 
pointed peaks whose outline offers some 
likeness to a pitchfork; and the name 
is more appropriate than in many other 
cases in the Alps where it recurs under 
the forms Forcola, Forcletta, Forclaz, 
Furgge, &c. The peak lying S. of the 
pass is often ascended for the sake of 
the view by persons who halt at the Inn. 
It is there called Furkahorn, but is ap¬ 
parently the same that is named on the 
Federal Map Blauberg (9,091')—not to 
be confounded with the higher moun¬ 
tain so called, E. of the St. Gothard 
Pass. 

A more considerable expedition is 
he ascent of the Galenstock (11,956'). 
This has been made several times of 
late years, and well merits the exertion; 
but it is fit only for practised moun¬ 
taineers with a competent guide. Some 
travellers who have attacked the moun¬ 
tain from this side without proper pre¬ 
cautions have narrowly escaped very 
serious accidents. See also § 25, Rte. F. 

The peak of the Mutthorn (10,181'), 
lying due S. of the pass, in the ridge 
dividing the Gerenthal from theMutten- 
thal, was ascended in 1865 by Messrs. 
Sedley, Taylor, and Montgomery, in 
4^ hrs. from the Furka inn, returning 
thither in 3 hrs. 

The descent on the W. side of the 
pass is much steeper than the ascent. 
Pedestrians pressed for time may follow 
the old path ; but by keeping to the 
carriage-road, and merely cutting off 
the corners between one zigzag and the 
next, they gain a really magnificent 
view of the great ice-fall of the Rhone 


Glacier. This soon comes into view, but 
it is only after descending about \ hr. 
that the full extent of that grand ice- 
stream is disclosed. Towards the bot¬ 
tom of the descent it is better to follow 
the old path. For a fuller notice of the 
Rhone Glacier, see § 24, Rte. C, and 
§ 25, Rte. F. [A mountaineer bound 
for the Grimsel may traverse the 
steep face of the mountain NW. 
of the Furka Pass, cross the Gla¬ 
cier above the ice-fall, and reach the 
Hospice bv the course indicated in the 
last-mentioned Rte. For this expedi¬ 
tion a guide is indispensable.] Towards 
the foot of the descent travellers usually 
make a slight detour to visit the lower 
end of the glacier. They are shown 
some springs of clear -water that are 
considered to be the true ‘ Sources of 
the Rhone ’— Germ. Rhone-Quellen. 
In summer the stream issuing from the 
glacier pours down a far more abun¬ 
dant current; but in winter, when the 
latter dwindles to a rivulet, the springs 
continue to flow as copiously and with 
the same temperature as in summer. 

The new Inn (Zum Rhone Gletscher), 
opened by Seiler of Zermatt, at the 
junction of the path leading to the 
Grimsel with that leading down the 
valley of the Rhone, is very well kept. 
See § 24, Rte. C. The way to Ober- 
waid lies through a rocky defile, and 
the new road, if it robs the journey ot 
something of its wildness, spares the 
pedestrian a very rough path. Pine- 
trees, that have rarely been seen since 
the traveller left Andermatt, here reap¬ 
pear. At Oberwald, where there is a de¬ 
cent Inn, the traveller attains the level 
of the Rhone valley. Carriages may 
be procured for Obergestelen (2 m.) 
Munster (6 m.), or Yiesch (16^ m.). 

[Mountaineers may well devote a day 
or two from Oberwald to exploring the 
Gerenthal, a neglected valley whose 
head is enclosed by a semicircular range 
of peaks, most of them exceedingl 0,00ft 
ft. in height. It is divided into two 
parallel branches, of which the northern 
—Jying to the 1. in ascending from 
Oberwald—is the most considerable. 






ROUTE D.—NUFENEN PASS. 


273 


On reaching the head of the valley the 
Geren Glacier is seen on the 1., or NE., 
enclosed between the highest summits 
of the St. Gotliard Group—the Pizzo 
Rotondo (10,489'), Pizzo Pesciora 
(10,246'), and Kuhbodeiihorn ( 10,082') 
to S. and SE., and the Saashorn (9,977') 
to NW. Messrs. F. North and Rigby, 
keeping a course about due SE. from 
Oberw aid, and avoiding the Geren Gla¬ 
cier , found an easy pass on the SW. 
side of the Kuhbodevhorn , leading in 5 
or 6 hrs. to Hospital all ’ Acqua. Other 
passes between the peaks surrounding 
the Geren Glacier doubtless remain to 
be explored. The three first-named 
peaks lie in the maiif chain dividing 
this valley from the head of the Val 
Bedretto, and a pass may doubtless 
be found which would be more interest¬ 
ing for a mountaineer going from the 
Oberland into Italy than the Nufenen 
or the St. Gothard.] 


Route D. 

OBERGESTELEN TO AIROLO, BY THE 
NUFENEN PASS. 

9 hrs.’ walking. About 23 Eng. miles. 

This is the most direct way from the 
head of the valley of the Rhone to that 
of the Ticino, but cannot be called a 
very interesting path, being in every 
way inferior to the Gries Pass, which 
is approached by the same path. In 
fine weather a guide is scarcely needed. 

The way from Obergestelen (or 
Munster) to the head of the Eginenthal 
is described in § 29, Rte. A. At the 
chalets of Altstaffel, the highest in that 
valley, a path bears to the 1., mounting 
by zigzags about due E. to the 

Nufenen Pass (8,009'), called on the 
Italian side Passo di Novena. Unlike 
the neighbouring pass of the Gries, 
where the peculiar conformation of the 
ground has produced an extensive gla¬ 
cier at the top, this at an equal height 
is covered with grass, usually with a 
few patches of snow on the Tessin side. 
Nearly 4 hrs. are required for the ascent 
PART II. 


from Obergestelen, and rather more 
than 2 hrs. for the descent to Hospital 
all'Acqua; travelling in the opposite 
direction, 3^ hrs. suffice for the ascent, 
and 2^ hrs. for the descent to Oberge¬ 
stelen. The view of the Oberland Alps 
from the summit is fine. The path 
slopes at first very gently towards the 
Italian side, and then descends rather 
more rapidly across the wide pas¬ 
tures of the Alpe di Cruina, occupying 
the upper end of the Val Bedretto, 
which extends for about 13 m. hence 
to Airolo. Near the chalets of Cruina 
(6,647') the main branch of the Ticino 
is formed by the union of the streamlet 
from the pass with a more considerable 
torrent issuing from the Val Como , 
and apparently fed by a branch of the 
Gries Glacier, which also supplies a 
feeder to the Rhone and the Tosa. 
Here the main path crosses to the 1. 
bank, along which it runs for many 
miles. The track leading from the Val 
Formazzaby the Pass of San Giacomo 
(§ 29, Rte. B) is joined as the traveller 
reaches Hospital all'Acqua (5,266'), ori¬ 
ginally designed as a refuge for poor 
travellers. It is a poor, dirty, and 
not cheap inn, where travellers will 
pass the night only in case of need. 
Here commences the permanently in¬ 
habited portion of the Val Bedretto 
Few valleys in the Alps have suffered 
so severely from avalanches. Though 
the pine forests which clothe the slopes 
might seem to offer some protection, 
the inhabitants have not found any 
part of the valley where they can pro¬ 
mise themselves security against fresh 
disasters. About 1 hr. below all’Acqua 
is Bedretto (4,610'), the highest village 
in the valley to which it gives its 
name, with a poor Inn. A buttress of 
strong masonry is erected to protect 
the church from the fall of avalanches. 
To the NW. is seen the Glacier of 
Pesciora , lying on a high shelf beneath 
the peak of the Pizzo Pesciora (10,246'). 
Save the Pizzo Lunghino, at the head 
of the Engadine (§ 35), this is the only 
mountain in the Alps which sends 
down from its flanks streams that flow 



274 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 30 . ST. GOTHARD DISTRICT. 


into three seas. On this side the waters 
how into the Adriatic through the 
Ticino and the Po, on the W. side, to 
tiie Mediterranean, through the Rhone, 
and on the NE. side, to the North Sea, 
through the Reuss and the Rhine. 

The path to Airolo crosses the river 
before reaching Osasco (4,367'), about 
lj m. below Bedretto. This hamlet 
was destroyed by an avalanche in the 
last century. Here the paths from the 
Val Bavona and Val Lavizzara, men¬ 
tioned in § 32, Rtes. C and D, enter the 
Val Bedretto. The next hamlet is 
Fontana; the main path keeps to the 
rt. bank until close to Airolo, where it 
recrosses the Ticino and reaches that 
village (Rte. A) by a short ascent. 
Those who are bound for the Pass of 
St. Gothard, and do not care to go by 
Airolo, should* cross the river at Fon¬ 
tana, follow for some distance a track 
along the 1. bank, and then mount the 
slopes to the 1. till he joins the high 
road as it enters the ravine of Val Tre- 
mola near the new Refuge, about 1,700 
ft. above Airolo. 


Route E. 

AIROLO TO ANDERMATT, BY THE VAL 
CANARIA. 

About 8 hrs.’ walk. 


hollow enclosed between ridges that 
support small masses of glacier. Here 
there is a way to Dissentis, ascending 
due E. from the head of the Val Ca¬ 
naria, and descending through the Val 
Cadelim, which joins the Medelserthal 
(Rte. F) a little above Sta. Maria. 
This is very little used, because the 
course from Airolo to Sta. Maria, de¬ 
scribed in Rte. G, is more direct. 
There is another way to the valley of 
the Vorderrhein, apparently somewhat 
difficult, though Prof. Theobald informs 
us that cattle are driven that way every 
year. This is by a glacier or field of 
neve on the S. side of the Piz Ravescha 
(9,875'). By tfiis way it is possible to 
reach the Val Camara , an affluent of 
theVorder Rhein noticed in §27, Rte. C. 
The writer has no doubt as to the pos¬ 
sibility of passing the ridge in that 
direction, but, as seen from the head of 
the Val Canaria, it appeared to him 
steep, and without the slightest trace 
of path. 

The way to Andermatt lies due N. 
from the head of the \ alley to the Nera 
Pass (about 8,000' ?) lying between the 
Piz Alv and the Piz Ravescha. The 
descent lies NW. to Andermatt through 
the Unteralpthal, a glen now some¬ 
times visited by strangers, who take it 
in the way from that village to the top 
of the Badus. (See Rte. A.) 


The Val Canaria is a wild and unfre¬ 
quented glen descending from the NE. 
towards Airolo, and pouring its torrent 
into the Ticino about 1 m. below that 
village. This offers a way to the val¬ 
ley of the Reuss more interesting to the 
mountaineer than the St. Gothard road. 
The ground is rough, and the path 
scarcely, if at all, traceable, so that it 
is advisable to take a guide. After 
passing a hamlet called Valle, about 
1 m. from Airolo, the path fairly enters 
the valley and mounts for a consider¬ 
able distance by the rt. bank of the 
torrent. The scenery is of a bolder 
character than in most of the neigh¬ 
bouring valleys. After passing a few 
chalets, which are not occupied long, as 
the valley supplies but scanty pasturage, 
the traveller reaches its head, a wild 


Route F. 

DISSENTIS TO BELLINZONA, BY THE 
LUK.MANIER PASS. 

Hrs.’ Eng. 


Platta. 

. . 2 

Sta. Maria . 

. . 3 

Casaccia . 

• • 4 

Olivone . 

a 

. . 3 

Dotigio 


Biasca 

• • 2l 

Bellmzona . 

4-| 


‘lii 


The LuJcmanier Pass (Ital. Passo di 
Lucmagno) is the lowest in the main 
chain of the Alps between the Mont 
Genevre and the Maloya. Though 
known from the earliest times, and”to 
some extent frequented in the Roman 
period and during the middle ages; 









ROUTE F.—MEDELSER TIIAL. 


this, like the two above-named passes, 
has hitherto failed to become one of the 
main channels of communication be¬ 
tween the people at opposite sides of 
the Alps, and for the same reason— 
because each of them forces the traveller 
to take a very circuitous route between 
the point where he enters the Alps and 
that where he issues from them into 
the plain of N. Italy. The Genevre 
and Maloya correspond to points of 
dislocation in the main chain, where 
ranges formed about different axes of 
elevation meet each other. In the 
case of the ranges on either side of 
the Lukmanier, the direction in which 
they have been raised is not very 
evident, and the pass itself appears to 
be produced by denudation acting on 
incoherent materials rather than by 
forces that have determined the general 
configuration of the mountains. 

This pass, after having fallen into 
comparative disuse since the comple¬ 
tion of the high road by the Bernardino, 
is destined to assume new importance 
by the construction of a railway to 
connect Lombardy and the port of 
Genoa with the Lake of Constance and 
the German railways radiating from its 
shores. The details of the line to be 
selected have been much debated, and 
may be liable to further modification, 
but, in spite of local pretensions and 
jealousies, it seems certain that the 
natural conditions which make this the 
easiest and most direct line for railway 
communication between central and 
western Germany and the Meditei- 
ranean must ultimately prevail over 
other considerations. 

Immediately S. of Dissent is (§27, 
Rte. A), the Medelser Rhein, or Middle 
Rhine, issues from the Medelserthal , a 
deep valley which marks the limit 
between the alpine group of the Adula 
(8 31) and that of the St. Gothard. 
The mule-path from Dissentis, after 
crossing the Vorder lvhein above the 
junction of the Medelser Rhein, mounts 
past the old church of St. Agatha, and 
winds upwards through a wood to the 

village of Motnve Medels (3,9 G3 ), com- 

T 


manding a fine view over Dissentis, 
the main valley of the Vorder Rhein, 
and the mountains to the N., while in 
the opposite direction are seen the 
Medelser Glacier and some of the 
high peaks at the head of the Medel¬ 
serthal. Soon after passing the village 
the path turns a projecting angle of the 
mountain, and the traveller has laid 
before him the upland valley through 
which his route lies to the pass. It 
presents an agreeable picture of alpine 
pastoral life, being bright with green 
meadows and some patches of rye, po¬ 
tatoes, and flax. Several small villages, 
each with a slender steeple, contain the 
sparsepopulation, and pineforests clothe 
the middle slopes of the surreuuding 
mountains. Leaving Curaglia to the 

l. the pass crosses the main torrent, and 
in 2 hrs. from Dissentis reaches 

Platta (4.523'), the principal place 
in the valley. The cure receives 
strangers. The old path to this place is 
now almost impassable, through neglect, 
but it is the more interesting. This fol¬ 
lows the deep ravine, called Conflons, 
where the M. Rhine forms two fine 
waterfalls. Above the defile the old 
path soon reaches Curaglia, and then 
joins the beaten track to Platta. 

[The way to the Medelser Glacier by 
the Plattas Alp has been noticed in 
§ 27, Rte. C. By that way Messrs. 
Mooie and Walker effected a new pass 
to Olivone, an interesting variation on 
the Lukmanier. Following the track 
to the Lavaz Joch (§ 31, Rte. D) for 50 

m. , they then ascended in hrs. the E. 
branch of the Medelser Gl.,to a depres¬ 
sion E. of the Cima Camadra ( 10,509'), 
called by them Camadra Pass (about 
10,000'). An almost unchecked glis¬ 
sade of over 3,000 ft. took them down 
in 35 min. to Val Camadra, near the 
foot of the Greina Pass (§ 31, Rte. D). 
Ghirone was reached in l| hr., and 
Olivone in 1 hr. 20 min. more.] 

The path to the Lukmanier follows 
the rt. bank, passing the hamlets Fuorns 
and Acla to Perdatsch, a small hamlet 
at the junction of Val Crista Hina. 

[This alpine sden may well oceupv a 

2 




27G LEPONTINE ALPS. § 30. 

mountaineer for an excursion of one j 
or two days from Dissentis. It derives 
its name from the quartz crystals found 
in the granite, or gneiss, of the sur¬ 
rounding Medelser Gebirge. The en¬ 
trance to the glen is very picturesque. 
Huge moss-grown blocks of granite, 
amidst which may be detected the deli¬ 
cate bells of the Linncea borealis, lie in 
the open spaces between masses of pine 
forest. To the W. is the Scopi (10,499), 
a rugged pinnacle of slate, containing 
belemnites. The Val Cristallina divides 
into two branches. That running S., 
called Val Casaccia, is very short; the 
other, much longer and more interest- 
ing,is called Ufiern (the Romantschform 
of Inferno), from the dark and savage 
character of its scenery. On its N. 
side rise several high peaks, such as 
Piz Puzata (10,262'), Piz Cristallina 
(10,345'), and Cima Camadra (10,509'). 
The first of these was ascended by 
Placidus a Spescha in 1782. The de¬ 
scent may be made on the side of Platta 
to the Medelserthal. Olivone may be 
reached from a SE. branch of this wild 
glen by the Ufiern Pass (7,887'). The 
way is by a faintly marked track pass¬ 
ing near a small tarn, 7,572 ft. in 
height. On the opposite side the 
stream enters the Lago Retico, and runs 
down to the Val di Campo. This enters 
Val Blegno a short way above Oli¬ 
vone, which is 3| hrs. from the pass. 
Another variation on the ordinary 
route was struck out by Mr. Sowerby 
iu 1865. Having slept at the Plattas 
Alp, he crossed the ridge to the S. by 
a low col, and in l| hr. gained the 
neve of the W. arm of the Medelser 
Glacier. An ascent of 2 hrs. took him 
to the Foreellhia Cristallina (about 
9,800'), a snow col between the Piz 
Cristallina and a higher point marked 
3,175 on the Federal Map. Descend¬ 
ing over neve and rocks, and bearing 
always to the L, he reached in nearly 
2 hrs. more the summit of a nameless 
pass 8.727 ft. high, at the extreme E. 
end of the Ufiern glen. hrs. took 
him down to Val Camadra, and thence 
to Olivone.] 


. ST. G0TIIARD DISTRICT. 

j Close to Perdatsch the Middle Rhine 
forms another fine waterfall, and the 
path begins to ascend rather more 
steeply than heretofore. Passing two 
hospices, or refuges for travellers, for¬ 
merly erected by the abbots of Dis¬ 
sentis, the first called St. Gion, the 
second St. Gall, the traveller reaches 
the highest and principal hospice, 
called Sta. Maria, 5,925 ft. above the 
sea. Each of these is furnished with 
a bell, which is tolled during the snow¬ 
storms with a view to guide passing 
travellers. These refuges afford bread 
and wine, and, in case of need, beds for 
the night; but the quarters are not 
tempting. The ascent of the Scopi 
may be made from hence in 5 hrs. it 
is somewhat fatiguing, but rewards the 
traveller by a fine alpine panorama. 
At Sta. Maria the Medelser Rhein is 
formed by the confluence of four tor¬ 
rents. The chief of these, and that 
which is considered the true source of 
the stream, issues from the Val Cadelim , 
which opens about due W. between the 
Rondadura (9,902') and the Pizzo delC 
Uomo (9,022'). At the head of this 
glen are several small lakes, of which 
the largest is called Lago Scuro (8,048'). 
The way to Val Canaria referred to 
in Rte. E. passes a lower lake, called 
Lago Lisera (7,690'), but bears to the 
1. before reaching the Lago Scuro. 
A second torrent descends to Sta. 
Maria from the Passo dell’ Uomo, no¬ 
ticed in the next Rte, and a third 
from a ravine on the flanks of the Scopi; 
but the deepest depression in the ranges 
enclosing the head of the valley lies 
between the two last, about due S. from 
the Sta. Maria, and is that followed in 
the present Rte. 

The ascent to the Lu/ananier Pass 
from Sta. Maria is quite trifling, the 
height of the summit level being not 
more than 6,289 ft. (?)—some measure¬ 
ments make it even lower. It is reached 
in | hr. from Sta. Maria. The friable 
gypsaceous rock over which the pass 
is carried has a white lustre that causes 
it to be sometimes mistaken at a dis¬ 
tance for snow. Etymologists have 




ROUTE F.—VAL BLEGNO. 


Til 


endeavoured, from this circumstance, 
to frame a derivation for the name of 
the pass ; but it appears that the origin 
is from the name Sancta Maria de Luco 
Magno, once given to the oratory on 
the N. side. All the traces of the 
forest which must once have existed 
there have now disappeared. From 
the wooden cross that marks the sum¬ 
mit there is a view of the main mass 
of the Adula Alps, crowned by the peak 
of the Piz Valrhein. The granitic 
ridges that enclose the head of the Val 
Blegno exhibit on a smaller scale the 
pinnacled and serrated forms familiar 
to the Chamouni tourist. 

The rapidity of the descent on the 
S. side of the pass affords a contrast to 
the gentle northern slope. Though 
steep, the vertical height of the first 
stage is not great, and in J hr. or less 
the traveller reaches Casaccia, a poor 
hospice (5,9 7S'), at the head of the Val 
Zara, a tributary glen of the Val 
Blegno. This descends in successive 
steps that follow in rapid succession 
as the traveller approaches the junction 
with the main valley. The first of these 
leads to the chalets of Bronico (5,466'). 
Two more steps in the descent lead in 2 
hrs. from Casaccia to Camperio (3,929'), 
a hospice whose foundation, as well as 
that of Casaccia, is attributed to S. 
Carlo Borromeo. The first view of 
the Val Blegno from near this place is 
very beautiful. It forms a deep cleft 
between the main range of the Adula 
and the less lofty ridge that separates 
it from the Val Leventina. There are 
few alpine passes in which the traveller 
is brought by a more abrupt transition 
from a region so stern and wild as the 
head of Val Zura into a valley so rich 
and animated as that into which he here 
enters. The lower part of the Val 
Zura is commonly called Val Campra. 
The track is carried along the 1. bank 
by Somascona, where it becomes pass¬ 
able for country chars, and in 1 hr. 
from Camperio descends into Val Blegno 
exactly opposite. 

Olivone (2,927'). There are several 
poor Inns, the best of which is kept by 


Stefano Bolla. It is on the rt. bank of 
the stream, tolerable, but dear. Nearly 
6 hrs. must be allowed for reaching the 
Lukmanier from Dissentis, and 3^ hrs. 
for the descent. In consequence of the 
difference of level, nearly 5 hrs. will be 
taken in the ascent from Olivone, and 
about the same time for descending to 
Dissentis. 

A diligence plies daily between Oli¬ 
vone and Biasca. It leaves the latter 
places at 3.30, arriving at 8 a.m., and 
returns from Olivone at 3.30 p.m., de¬ 
scending the valley in 3 hrs. 

About Olivone the chestnut makes 
its appearance, soon becoming the pre¬ 
dominant tree of the valley. During 
the descent the vine and fig-tree ap¬ 
pear in succession, and announce to 
the traveller his arrival in a more 
genial climate. Close to Olivone 
the stream of the Brenno is formed 
by the junction of the torrent from 
the northern or main branch of the 
valley, called Val Camadra, with 
that issuing from the Lukmanier Pass 
through the Val Campra. A tolerably 
good road leads down the Val Blegno 
along the 1. bank of the Brenno, from 
Olivone to its junction with the Val 
Leventina at Biasca. It descends gently 
by Aquila to Dangio, a village lying 
at the W. base of the Piz Valrhein, 
seen through the Val Soja, a ravine 
opening 1. of the road. Farther on is 
a small establishment with mineral 
waters, called Acqua Rossa, offering 
tolerable accommodation. Dangio 
(1,513'), is 7? m. from Olivone, and 
3 m. farther is Malvaglia, one of the 
chief villages in the valley. Before 
reaching that place the road crosses 
the Larina torrent as it issues from the 
Val Malvaglia to join the Brenno. This 
wild glen originates on the S. side of 
principal peaks of the Adula. For the 
glacier passes practicable from its 
;ead to the sources of the Hinter- 
rhein, see § 31, Rte. B. About 1 m. 
below Malvaglia is the junction of an¬ 
other torrent from the Val Pentirone. 
A path leads through it by a village 
of the same name to a pass (6,955') in 




278 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 30 . 

the ridge dividing Yal Blegno from 
Val Calanca, and descends to the ham¬ 
let of Rossa in that valley. Below 
the junction of Val Pentirone the 
road traverses a tract marked by the 
presence of scattered blocks of stone 
and irregular hillocks that are the me¬ 
morials of one of the most destructive 
events recorded in alpine history. 

In Sept. 1512 a bergfall from the 
NW. end of the ridge of the Pizzo 
Magno (7,877') barred across the course 
of the Brenno. The barrier formed a 
lake that continued to increase until 
the spring of 1514, when it suddenly 
broke its bounds, spreading devastation 
through the lower part of the Yal Le- 
ventina, or Riviera, and even destroy¬ 
ing a part of the town of Bellinzona, 
15 miles distant. The bergfall has 
been attributed to an earthquake, but 
no such agent is needed to explain the 
phenomenon, and it is more likely that 
the fall should have occasioned any 
oscillation that may have been felt in 
the adjoining valleys. Less than 2 m. 
from the site of the bergfall is Biased, 
where this road joins that of the St. 
Gothard (Rte. A). 

Route G. 

D1SSENTIS TO AIROLO, BY THE PASSO 
DELL’ UOMO. 

5 lus. to Sta. Maria—6 hrs. thence to Airolo. 

Foot-path. 

This affords a pleasant way for the 
pedestrian going from the Vorderrhein 
valley to the S. side of the St. Gothard. 
As tar as Sta. Maria the way from Dis- 
sentis (see last Rte.) is easily found 
without a guide; thence to Altanca it 
is advisable to take one, as the track is 
faintly marked, and it would be very 
unpleasant to be benighted on the 
heights near the pass. The day’s walk 
is rather long, though free from diffi¬ 
culty. 

From Sta. Maria a path leads due 
SW. through a depression called Val 
Termine. The ascent is easy, but con¬ 
siderably longer than that to the Luk- 
rnanier, and 1^ hr. is required to reach 


. ST. GOTHARD DISTRICT. 

the summit of the Passo dell y Como 
(7,257'), lying S. of the Pizzo dell y 
Homo (9,022'). The St. Gothard Alps 
abound in small lakes, but in no part of 
the range are they so abundant as in 
this neighbourhood. Not only in the 
upland valley-basins, but on plateaux 
and shelves of the steep sides of moun¬ 
tains, are these lakelets or tarns to be 
seen. One very small one lies close to 
the summit of this pass, which declines 
very gently on the W. side to a boggy 
plateau known as Piano dei Porci 
(6,959'). This leads to a highland 
valley, called Val Piora, where the 
scenery soon becomes more interesting. 
After passing the chalets of Piora 
the path skirts the small Lagodi Ca- 
dagna (6,303'), into which a pretty 
waterfall tumbles from another lake 
lying on a higher shelf of the mountain. 
The stream descends abruptly to the 
level of another much larger lake — 
Lago di Ritom (5,971'). Surrounded 
with green pastures wherein stand 
several chalets, and enclosed between 
rugged granitic rocks, this presents a 
pleasing picture. The path now lies 
for some way along the rt. bank of the 
torrent, which descends towards the 
Yal Leventina in a succession of water¬ 
falls. At the third fall the path quits 
the stream and turns to the rt. along 
the slope of the mountain, at a great 
height above the Tessin and the road 
of the St. Gothard, which is seen at 
intervals. After passing the hamlets 
of Altanca (4,567') and Brngnasco, the 
traveller descends rather rapidly to 
Madrano (3,780'), a village standing 
above the confluence of the Yal Ca¬ 
naria with the main valley. There is 
a frequented path from thence to Airolo. 

The traveller wishing to see some¬ 
thing of Yal Canaria (Rte. E.) may 
reach Airolo nearly as soon as by the 
course above described, by bearing to 
the rt. from the Lago di Ritom and 
crossing a low pass (6,959') leading 
into that wild valley. 

A traveller bound from Olivone to 
Airolo may mount towards the E. from 
Casaccia, to a col— Passo di Zura ? 




ADULA DISTRICT. 


279 


(7,792')—at the head of Yal Zura 
t.Rte. F), and join the track over the 
Uomo Pass near the top, thus reaching 
his destination in from 9 to 10 hrs. 

There is also a path from Casaccia 
to Faido which would enable a traveller 
starting from Olivone or Dissentis to 
reach that place by a much shorter way 
than by the road. From 4£ to 5 hrs. 
should be allowed for this pass ; so that 
those who start from Dissentis must 
count upon a long day’s walk. 


SECTION 31. 

ADULA DISTRICT. 

The group of snowy peaks lying be¬ 
tween the two principal branches of 
the Rhine were known in the Middle 
Ages by the names Mons Aquila or 
Mons Avium. From the Romantsch 
form of the first comes the name Adula, 
by which this portion of the Lepontine 
Alps is most commonly known, while 
the second has originated the German 
designation Yogelberg. To judge from 
the meridional direction of the main 
ridge and the principal valleys, the 
predominant tendency of the forces 
that have formed this part of the Alps 
must have been transverse to that 
which determined the direction of the 
greater chains of the Pennine, Ber¬ 
nese, Todi, and Rhaetian Alps. The 
watershed between N. Switzerland and 
Italy has here no determinate direc¬ 
tion, and exhibits a dislocated appear¬ 
ance, as though its position depended 
on the accidental juxtaposition of se¬ 
parate masses of mountain. There is, 
however, one remarkable valley—that 
of the Rheinwald—whose parallelism 
to the Todi chain seems to show that 
the same forces which have acted so 
widely elsewhere have been present 
here, though obscured by other con¬ 
tending influences. 

The peaks of the Adula form an 
irregular group, all the highest lying 
in a cluster not more than 3 m. distant 
from the centre, which may be fixed 


at the foot of the Rheinwald Glacier. 
From the central group a considerable 
range extends due S. more than 10 m. 
between Val Blegno and Val Calanca, 
gradually diminishing in height from 
the Fil Rosso (10,066') to the Pizzo di 
Clara (8,917'). A parallel ridge con¬ 
nected with the main mass divides the 
Val Calanca from Val Mesocco; it 
surpasses but in few points the height 
of 9,000 ft. The northern ridge, 
longer but less regular than the first- 
mentioned, extends fully 15 m. from 
the central group to the Piz Niidils, 
over Somvix in the Valley of the Vor- 
derrhein. Three branches diverge to 
the ENE. from the main N. and S. 
ridge. The most important is that ex¬ 
tending from the Piz Valrhein, the 
central and highest summit, to the Piz 
Beverin over Thusis. With this are 
connected the secondary ridges of in¬ 
ferior height that enclose the Savien- 
thal. Parallel to this, a short ridge, 
including several summits over 10,000 
ft. in height, extends from the Terri 
(10,338') to the Piz Regina (9,427'). 
Rather longer is the ridge diverging 
from the Piz Cavel (9,689') N. of the 
Disrut Pass, and terminating in the 
Piz Mundaun (6,775') over Ilanz. In 
addition to the proper group of the 
Adula, it is necessary to include in 
this Section the less-important group 
of the Medelser Gebirge, an outlying 
mass, partially separated from the first 
by the Somvixerthal and the Greina 
Pass, and cut off from the St. Gothard 
group by the much deeper depression 
followed by the track of the Luk- 
manier. This accessory group includes 
four or five peaks that range from 
10,300 to 10,500 ft. Thus defined, 
the limits of the district included in 
the present Section are the road of the 
Bernardino from Reichenau to the Val 
Leventina, that of the Lukmanier from 
Dissentis to its junction with the last 
at the opening of the Val Mesocco, and 
the Valley of the Vorder Rhein from 
Reichenau to Dissentis. 

The fact that this portion of the 
Alps should have been so long neg- 





280 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 31 . ADULA DISTRICT. 


lected by travellers must be accounted 
for by the want of information, and 
the absence of any central point offer¬ 
ing such accommodation as tempted 
tourists to explore the country for 
themselves. Although but two of the 
summits of this group exceed 11,000 ft. 
in height, the glaciers are on a very 
considerable scale, and the many rami¬ 
fications of the valleys on the N. side 
offer scenes worthy of comparison with 
those which attract crowds of strangers 
elsewhere in the Alps. A mountaineer 
finds tolerable quarters at St. Peter in 
the Valserthal, 4,095 ft. above the sea, 
the most central point for excursions 
in that part of the range. In the Som- 
vixerthal the Tenniger Bad (4,077') 
also supplies sufficient accommodation, 
but the position is not so attractive. 
The village of Hinterrhein (5,328') is 
the best point for approaching the 
great glaciers that give birth to the 
chief branch of the Rhine, but it is 
inconveniently distant from the points 
most interesting to strangers. 

The district included in this Section 
is contained in Sheets 14 and 19 of the 
Swiss Federal Map. The far larger 
portion belongs to the Grisons, where 
Romantsch is the prevailing dialect. 
In the Val Mesocco and Yal Calanca, 
belonging to that canton, and in Val 
Blegno, forming part of Tessin, Italian 
is almost exclusively spoken. 


Route A. 

COIRE TO BEI.LINZONA, BY THE BER¬ 
NARDINO PASS — VIA MALA. 


Reichenau 
Thusis . 
Andeer 
Spliigen 
Hinterrhein 
San Bernardino 
Mesocco 
Cama . 
Bellinzona 


Swiss 

Eng. 

leagues 

miles 

2 

6 

H 

10* 

2* 

H 

3 

9 

2* 

®f 

1* 

1*>2 

1 * 4 

3 

9 


10* 

3f 

11* 

28 

84 


A post-road, traversed by diligence, 
sometimes changing carriage at Splii- 


gen, in 16 hrs. from Coire to Bellin¬ 
zona. Fare in coupe, 28 fr. ; in in¬ 
terior, 24 fr. 10 c. Carriages may be 
hired at Coire, Spliigen, or Bellinzona. 
Usual charge for a carriage and two 
horses from Coire to Spliigen, 60 to 
70 fr.—from Coire to Bellinzona, 140 
to 160 fr. See observations as to voi- 
turiers in § 30, lite. A. In posting, 
the same carriage may be taken from 
Coire to Spliigen ; but from that place 
to Bellinzona it is, or was, necessary 
to change carriage at each post station. 
There is some difficulty in giving the 
exact distances by this Rte. In post¬ 
ing, the distances charged are exces¬ 
sive, amounting in all to 33f Swis? 
leagues. Those given in some guide¬ 
books seem to have been partially 
reckoned by the time required for a 
foot-passenger availing himself of short 
cuts. In some parts of the road, espe¬ 
cially between Hinterrhein and Me¬ 
socco, these reduce the distance by 
nearly one-half. 

The defile of the Via Mala, which 
serves alike for the approach by the 
Bernardino Pass to the Lago Mag- 
giore, and by the Spliigen (§ 33) to 
the Lake of Como, is deservedly one 
of the most famous in the Alps, and 
the remainder of the road here de¬ 
scribed abounds in striking scenery 
that will reward those who traverse 
it in a leisurely manner. Pedestrians 
should walk from Thusis to Mesocco, 
if not to Roveredo. There are good 
inns at Thusis, Andeer, Spliigen, and 
San Bernardino, and tolerable accom¬ 
modation at several other places on 
the way. 

The path from Coire to Reichenau, 
lying for half the distance by the 1. 
bank of the Rhine, is noticed in § 27, 
Rte. A. The high road follows the 
rt. bank, passing the pretty village of 
Ems. Some conical masses of earth 
and gravel seen near here probably 
have the same origin as those of the 
Eringerthal (§ 19, Rte. A), but the 
popular legend has given them the 
name Tombels da Chiavals, derived 
from the belief that they cover the 






ROUTE A.—EXCURSIONS FROM THUSIS. 


remains of a prodigious number of 
horses that died of cold when the Em¬ 
peror Constantius led his army against 
the Alemanni across the Bernardino 
Pass, a.d. 354. The road crosses a 
very fine wooden bridge, of 254 ft. 
span and 80 ft. above the river, just 
below the junction of the Vorder- 
and Hinter-Rhein. On the 1. bank 
stands 

Heichenau (Inn: Adler, good and 
reasonable), a small place with some 
large buildings. The Castle, now be¬ 
longing to one of the Planta family, is 
visited by strangers for the sake of the 
memorials of King Louis Philippe, 
who acted here as schoolmaster during 
the Reign of Terror under the assumed 
name of Chabot. From the pleasure- 
grounds there is a good view of the 
meeting of the two branches of the 
Rhine. A roofed bridge across the 
Vorder Rhein (1,923') carries the road 
to the 1. bank of the Hinter Rhein. 
Rather more than 1 m. from Reichenau 
is Bonaduz (Inn: Krone). Many an¬ 
cient castles defended the entrance of 
the Domleschgerthal (Rom. Val Tomi- 
liasca), as the Valley of the Rhine 
from hence to Thusis is calied. The 
most considerable of these is that of 
Rhazuns, standing on an isolated rock 
to the rt. of the road about 2 m. from 
Reichenau. Its origin dates from a 
remote antiquity, and after belonging 
in succession to Austria, Bavaria, and 
France, it is now inhabited by a pri¬ 
vate proprietor. On the opposite bank 
of the Rhine the two castles of Juvalta 
and Ortenstein are especially pictu¬ 
resque objects. The rich cultivation 
of the valley, enlivened by numerous 
villages and the memorials of a past 
age, presents a striking contrast to 
the lofty and rugged ranges that en¬ 
close it on either side. About m. 
from Reichenau is Katzis (Inn: Kreuz), 
a village standing in one of the most 
picturesque positions in this beautiful 
valley. To the SE. opens the gorge 
of the Albula, or Oberhalbstein Rhine, 
with some of the snowy peaks of the 
Albula group (§ 35) in the back¬ 


281 

ground. Two miles farther the Dom¬ 
leschgerthal comes to an end at 

Thusis (Inns: Hotel Via Mala, very 
good; Goldener Adler, or Post, also 
good; H. and Pension Rhsetia, looks 
well; several pensions). The best 
wine to be found at hotels in this part 
of Switzerland is that of the Val Tel- 
lina (Germ. Veltlin). The finer quali¬ 
ties when pure are excellent. Having 
been burned down four times—the last 
in 1845—Thusis is a new and clean 
village, 2,448 ft. above the sea, and by 
the beauty of its position, and the many 
interesting excursions within reach, 
may well detain the traveller for a 
few days. It stands close to the con¬ 
fluence with the Rhine of the destruc¬ 
tive torrent Nulla , descending from 
the N. side of the Piz Beverin, whose 
unruly floods, laden with sand and 
shattered slate, have often done much 
damage in the neighbouring portions 
of the main valley. 

The first excursion for those who do 
not intend traversing the Spliigen or 
Bernardino, is that to the Via Mala. 
Charge for a char through the defile 
and back, 5 fr.; if taken as far as 
Andeer, 8^ fr. Of the shorter walks 
in the neighbourhood, the following 
may be mentioned:—- 

The Castle of Hohen-Rhatien , or 
Rhiialt, standing above the opposite 
bank of the Rhine, in the angle between 
that stream and the Albula. The 
foundation of this, as well as Rhazuns 
near Reichenau, is attributed to the 
mythical king Rhaetus, and accurate 
chronologists have fixed the date at 
587 b.c. This may be easily com¬ 
bined in a short walk with the ruins 
of Campi, even more finely situated, 
and reached by a pleasant walk through 
a wood. 

On the 1. bank, and still nearer Thusis, 
are the castles of Tagstein. Ober Tag- 
stein is a tower in a very commanding 
situation, and rather difficult of access. 
Nieder Tagstein is a larger building 
recently restored and made habitable. 
It is reached by a delightful walk, com¬ 
manding exquisite views. 





282 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 31 . APULA DISTRICT. 


The gorge of the Noll a offers a very 
striking scene. It is best seen from the 
pastures of Thalaus, a short distance 
above Thusis. 

Of longer expeditions, one of the 
most interesting is the ascent of the 
Statzerborn (see § 27, Rte. C), which 
may be reached from hence in about 
the same time as from Coire. 

The ascent of the Piz Beverin (see 
below) is more conveniently made from 
Andeer. 

An excursion is often made to Savien 
Platz (Rte. H) by the hamlets of 
Tschappina and Gins. This is a walk 
or ride of 4 hrs., passing immediately 
under the Piz Beverin. Charge for a 
horse going and returning, 15 fr. 

The path to Tiefenkasten, by the 
Schyn Pass, is described in § 35, Rte. B. 
The ruins of Hohen Rhiitien and Campi 
may be visited on the way. 

From many points near Thusis the 
main valley of the Rhine seems to be 
completely closed by the mountains 
that rise to the S., and it is only from 
some spots that the cleft is distinctly 
seen that opens the famous defile of the 
Via Mala. The Romans carried a 
paved track at a great height over the 
mountains on the 1. bank, and it was 
not until the fifteenth century that the 
first attempt w r as made to drive a path 
through the defile, which received its 
name from the many fatal accidents 
that occurred to passing travellers. In 
the last century the path was improved, 
and two stone bridges for the first time 
spanned the chasm. The present road, 
safely traversed by carriages at all 
seasons of the year, was constructed in 
1822, by the engineer Pocobelli, in 
connection with the road over the Ber¬ 
nardino Pass, made under his direction. 
A pedestrian starting a few minutes 
before a carriage, may easily reach 
Andeer, or, at all events, pass through 
the Via Mala, before he is overtaken. 

This extraordinary defile opens ^ m. 
above Thusis, and extends about 4 m. 
Some other alpine defiles described in 
this work are deeper than this, and 
there are a few equally narrow; but 


there is none in which the two condi¬ 
tions are combined so fully as here. 
This is literally a cleft, with walls at 
least 1,500 ft. in height, and so narrow 
that in some places it is not more than 
30 ft. wide at 200 or 300 ft. above the 
stream. 

The entrance to the Via Mala is 
abrupt, and in a few minutes the tra¬ 
veller passes from the open sunny valley 
to a rock-bound prison, where a mere 
strip of sky is visible, and the only 
tokens of life are a few weather-beaten 
pines clinging to the crags hundreds of 
feet above his head. Before long he 
reaches the most impassable part of the 
cleft—the so-called Verlorenes Loch. 
Even after a track had been opened 
through the upper part, it was necessary 
to avoid this passage by a long and 
steep ascent over the shoulder of the 
mountain to the rt. The present road 
for the first time penetrated the Ver¬ 
lorenes Loch by a tunnel 230 ft. long, 
which is approached by a ledge exca¬ 
vated by blasting the hard slaty rock. 
For nearly £ m. the road is carried 
along the face of a precipice all but 
absolutely vertical. In some places it 
is so narrow that it is not easy for two 
carriages to pass, but a strong parapet 
wall gives a sense of security to ner¬ 
vous travellers. After traversing this 
first stage of the defile, the rocks recede 
a little, and form a small circular basin 
wherein stands a solitary house, the 
post-office of a village called Iiongella , 
at a great height on the mountain to 
the W., which is accessible by a very 
steep path. That was the ordinary 
passage for travellers descending from 
the upper valley to Thusis, up to the 
early part of the present century. In 
a few minutes beyond the lonely house, 
the road again plunges into the chasm 
through which the Rhine pursues its 
furious course, and the scene becomes, 
if possible, more impressive than before. 
The first bridge crosses the stream at a 
point where the rocks are less nearly 
vertical than elsewhere, and some alpine 
fiow-ers enliven the sombre aspect of 
the scene; but the gigantic walls soon 




ROUTE A.— PIZ BEVERIN. 


283 


close together again, and at the Middle 
Bridge the climax of stern sublimity is 
attained. In approaching it, the road 
is for some distance covered by a 
wooden roof to afford protection from 
falling stones. The bridge stands 
about 230 ft. above the ordinary level 
ot the stream; yet in the fearful storm 
and inundation ot ] 834, whose disas¬ 
trous effects are still remembered 
throughout the E of Switzerland, the 
waters rose to within a few feet of the 
arch, and carried away a portion of 
the new road a little higher up in the 
defile. The workmen employed on 
the road earn a few sous from passing 
travellers by heaving masses of stone 
over the parapet, which fall with a 
crash into the raging torrent below. 
The chasm is here so narrow that pine- 
trees carried down by avalanches are 
often caught in their descent, and re¬ 
main jammed between the rocks at a 
great height above the stream. The 
space required for the road is again 
excavated by blasting in the face of 
the precipice. At one point passengers 
often climb a projecting rock, and, 
lying on their faces, peep over the edge, 
which absolutely overhangs the torrent. 
At the third bridge, about 130 ft. (?) 
above the Rhine, built to replace one 
that was carried away in the inundation 
of 1834, the traveller emerges from the 
Via Mala, and enters the Schamserthal, 
as the valley of the Rhine is called 
from hence to the defile of Rofla. The 
name is said to be derived from Sex- 
amnes — Rom., Sesame — referring to 
the six mountain torrents that here 
unite in the channel of the Rhine. 
Barley and green crops are still grown 
here, but it is mainly a pastoral dis¬ 
trict, presenting a marked contrast to 
the rich cultivation of the valley 
"between Thusis and Reichenau. On 
entering the comparatively open valley, 
the village of Lohn (5,191') is seen on 
the slope of the mountain to the W. 
This lay on the ancient Roman road 
through the valley, 2,000 ft. above the 
present passage. 

Zillis (3,06 T) is a very ancient vil¬ 


lage, with a fairly good and cheap 
country inn, and a church dating from 
a.d. 940, H m. above the opening of 
the Schamserthal. A house with rude 
fresco paintings retains a curious in¬ 
scription in Swiss German, bearing 
the date 1590. An inscription by the 
side -of the road, which keeps the rt. 
bank of the Rhine, records the com¬ 
pletion of the new road through this 
part of the Alps, and conveys in clas¬ 
sical Latin excellent advice not likely 
to be understood by those for whom it is 
intended. About 2 m. beyond Zillis is 

Andeer (Inn: Hotel Fravi, very good 
and reasonable ; some books and news¬ 
papers help to induce travellers to halt 
here for a few days). The neighbour¬ 
ing scenery is very pleasing; several 
excursions offer employment to the 
mountaineer; and the air at 3,212 ft 
above the sea is more bracing than at 
Thusis. The neighbouring castles ot 
Rinkenstein, Castellatsch, and Fardiin 
may be visited. The last is connected 
with a local tale of lordly oppression 
and insult, and of peasant vengeance, 
similar in character to those recorded 
in many other parts of the Alps. A 
very pleasant walk may be taken 
through the lower part of the Val 
Ferrera; visiting on the way the falls 
of the Averser Rhein (§ 35, Rte. K). 
The ascent of the Piz Carver (9,761') is 
occasionally made from hence, but a 
more interesting expedition is that 
to the 

Piz Beverin (9,843'), said to com¬ 
mand one of the finest views in this 
part of the Alps. Excepting the last 
peak, which is somewhat steep, the 
ascent is very easy, practicable for 
horses, and not unfrequently accom¬ 
plished by ladies. Zillis is closer to 
the foot of the mountain, but has no 
tolerable Inn. ‘ Charge for a guide, 

5 fr.; for horse and boy, 9 fr.; for a 
chaise-a- porteur, 6j fr. for each man. 
The way is by Fardiin, the village of 
Mathon, and the pastures of Nursin. 
On the W. side of the highest peak 
fine crystals of quartz are very 
abundant.’—[B. ] 





284 


LEPONTINE ALPS. 


§ 

About 2 m. above Andeer is the 
junction of the Aversthal with the 
main valley. The lower part, called 
Val Ferrera, is well worth a visit. The 
valley is described in § 35, Rte. K. A 
fine fall of the Avers torrent may be 
reached by a detour of £ hr. from the 
high road. This mounts in zigzags 
the defile of Rofla , which reminds the 
traveller, though on a much less grand 
scale, of the Via Mala. The Rofla is 
perhaps more picturesque, but far less 
extraordinary and impressive. There 
is a fall of the Rhine here which is 
not in itself very notable, but forms a 
pleasing picture. The name Rofla is 
applied in Romantsch to other similar 
defiles, having the character of clefts 
through strata once continuous. M. 
Desor has proposed to adopt the term 
in geology as expressive of this class 
of rock-clefts. Above the Rofla the 
valley makes a sharp turn, bending to 
the rt., and mounting WSW. to the 
glaciers of the Adula. On the 1. bank, 
connected with the high road by a 
wooden bridge, is Suflrs , at the mouth 
of a glen descending from the Grauhorn 
(9,849'). After passing a short tunnel 
at a point where the valley is for the 
last time narrowed between projecting 
rocks, the traveller enters the highest 
portion of the valley, called Rheinwald. 
The absence of tillage, the extensive 
meadows and pastures girt with pine 
forest, the nearness of the surrounding 
snowy summits, all announce to the 
traveller approaching the Alps for the 
first time new conditions of climate and 
of human existence. After crossing to 
the 1. bank of the Rhine, he soon reaches 
the chief village of the upper valley, 

Spliigen (Inn: Post, good, not cheap), 
at the junction of the two important 
roads of the Bernardino and the Splu- 
gen. The great size of the houses in the 
Grisons villages surprises strangers. 
They are built of wood, which is here 
very cheap, and serve not only for 
dwellings, but also as granaries and 
barns, where hay for the winter use of 
cattle is stored. It is not uncommon 
to turn part of the ground floor into 


31. ADULA DISTRICT. 

stabling. Spliigen stands 4,757 ft. above 
the sea, and is not clear of snow for 
more than five months in the year. 
Leaving the road to the Spliigen Pass 
to cross the Rhine and commence the 
ascent, the road of the Bernardino 
follows the nearly level floor of the 
Rheinwald valley along the 1. bank of 
the stream. In the gravelly soil left 
dry by the torrent many plants of the 
high Alps, such as Artemisia mutellina, 
&c., will be noticed by the botanist. 
The way lies amidst meadows, with a 
few scattered houses of dark pine wood, 
and the valley has a severe and silent 
aspect. About 4 m. from Spliigen the 
Areuethal opens to the S. between the 
Tambohorn (10,748') and Rizzo Terre 
(10,167') to the E., and the Einshorn 
(9,649')—locally known as Piz Gradol 
—and Pizzo della Lumbreda (9,768') to 
the E. [An easy pass, shorter and 
scarcely more laborious than the road, 
leads through that glen in 44 hrs. to San 
Bernardino. The path by the rt. bank is 
followed to the Reuen Alp. Crossing 
the torrent, an easy but pathless ascent 
leads to the Passo di Vignone, whence 
the descent lies through a short glen 
called Val Vignone.~\ Turning to the rt. 
from the road at the hamlet of Nufenen, 
the botanist will find along the course 
of the streamlet Hieracium flexuosum, 
Phaca frigida and P. alpina , with other 
interesting plants. 2^ m. farther is 

Hinterrhein . the last village in the 
valley, 5,328 ft. above the sea. There 
is a poor inn at the Post, where a 
mountaineer may rough it for a day or 
two. Like most of the village inns in 
high alpine valleys, this is very close, 
from the want of ventilation. The chief 
inducement to halt here is the expedi¬ 
tion to the source of the Hinter Rhein, 
described in Rte. B. The way to Ilanz 
by the Valserberg is described in Rte. G. 

The Bernardino Pass, separating 
the Rheinwald from the head of the 
Val Mesocco, was known to the Ro¬ 
mans, and it is believed that the ancient 
paved track, used as a bridle-path, 
especially in winter, when it is freer 
from snow than the road, follows the 




ROUTE A.—SAN BERNARDINO. 


285 


line of the ancient passage. The mo¬ 
dern name was derived from a chapel 
dedicated to St. Bernardino of Siena, 
erected near the summit in the fifteenth 
century. The present road, with the 
still more difficult portion between 
Splugen and Reichenau, was con¬ 
structed daring the five years ending 
in 1823, and was the first carriage-road 
carried across the Alps between Swit¬ 
zerland and Italy. The Piedmontese 
Government contributed a large sum 
towards the cost of the road, which, 
though lying altogether in Swiss terri¬ 
tory, served to connect Genoa with 
Switzerland and W. Germany. 

Within ^ m. of Hinterrhein the road 
crosses a stone bridge, the first thrown 
over this branch of the Rhine, and 
immediately commences the ascent on 
the S. side of the valley by a series of 
zigzags. From the bridge to the sum¬ 
mit of the pass the general direction is 
somewhat W. of S., while in descend¬ 
ing to San Bernardino the course leans 
towards the E., so that the latter village 
lies due S. of Hinterrhein. In the ascent 
there are fine views of the Piz Valrhein 
and the surrounding peaks and glaciers. 
To the rt., or W. of the pass, is the 
Marschollhorn (9,521'), called by some 
writers Moschelhorn, by others Mo- 
schelhorn ; while on the 1. the Einshorn 
(9,649') sends out a projecting ridge 
that terminates in the Pizzo <VUccello 
(8,911'), rising immediately E. of the 
pass. The pedestrian may save much 
time by short-cuts across the zigzags 
in the first part of the ascent, but to¬ 
wards the top he will do better to follow 
the road. He may indeed shorten the 
distance a little by keeping along the 
bare granitic rocks on the E. side of 
the lake lying at the top of the pass ; 
but the ground is rough, and he will 
6ave no time by that course. The 
actual summit, 6,769 ft. (?) above the 
sea, is marked by a massive stone build¬ 
ing which, though uninviting, serves 
as an Inn, and as a refuge in bad 
weather. Close at hand is a lake called 
Lago di Moesola , but a few feet below 
the summit level, forming the principal 


source of the Moesa. The road passes 
along the W. bank. With the excep¬ 
tion of the Sielvio and the Simplon, 
the scenery of this pass is finer than 
that of any of the alpine passes tra¬ 
versed by a carriage-road. On leaving 
the lake, the road traverses the torrent 
issuing from it, and the descent com¬ 
mences at once. The upper part is 
very steep, and it is necessary to keep 
to the road, which is carried diagonally 
down the rocky slope, commanding a 
fine view of the Pizzo di Muccia (9,721'), 
and the Muccia Glacier , lying between 
it and a ridge of the Marschollhorn. 
The zigzags soon commence on the S. 
side, and the pedestrian may shorten 
the way very much by a judicious choice 
of short-cuts. In one place the road is 
covered over with a strong wooden roof, 
supported on stone columns to protect 
it from avalanches. This is close tc 
a fine stone bridge over the Moesa, 
named after King Victor Emanuel I., 
who contributed largely to the con¬ 
struction of the road. Pines soon begin 
to make their appearance, and the 
scenery becomes softer, though the 
rugged peaks on either side have a stern 
aspect. Carriages take 3^- hrs. from 
Hinterrhein, but pedestrians following 
the short- cuts do not require more than 
21 hrs. to reach 

San Bernardino (5,334'), a small and 
poor village, where the stranger is sur¬ 
prised to find several large Inns (H. 
Brocco; H. Ravizza; H. Motto). The 
first of these is very good; the second 
has also very fair accommodation, but 
the company is less select. The exist¬ 
ence of a chalybeate spring, used 
internally and also for baths, is the 
main inducement that attracts many 
visitors, chiefly Italians, to this alpine 
village during the hot season ; but the 
fine scenery and pure mountain air suf¬ 
fice to make it a desirable stopping- 
place. Among other excursions Count 
Luchini Dal Verme recommends the as¬ 
cent of the Piz Crave (9,282')—wrong¬ 
ly named Pizzo Rotondo in the Federal 
map. The summit is gained in 3£ hrs. 
from S. Bernardino, being approached 





286 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 31 . ADULA DISTRICT. 


from the Col dei Tre Uornini leading to 
Val Calanca (Rte. C)and to the Yal di 
San Giacomo(§33, Rte. D). The bota¬ 
nist will find several interesting species, 
especially ferns. Poli/podium rhceticum is 
common in this district, and the rare 
Hotrt/chium matricarioides has been 
found in wet meadows not far from the 
village. S. of San Bernardino the head 
of the Val Mesoceo forms an undulating 
plateau of considerable width, whereon 
green meadows alternate with clumps 
of pine-forest, the whole being enclosed 
between rugged and picturesque moun¬ 
tains. The stream of the Moesa keeps 
to the W. side of the plateau, and the 
high road to the E., ascending very 
slightly over some of the undulations, 
until it reaches the verge of the first 
steep stage in the descent. A torrent 
falls from the mountains on the E. side 
of the valley to join the Moesa at the 
base of the somewhat precipitous slope 
that separates the upper plateau from 
the proper head of the Val Mesocco, 
which here opens before the traveller. 
This valley, also called Yal Mesolcina, 
and in German Misoxerthal, gave its 
name to a family who played a con¬ 
spicuous part in the early history of 
this part of Switzerland. It afterwards 
passed under the rule of the powerful 
Milanese family of Trivulzi. The 
natives, partly by purchase from their 
feudal lords, partly by the armed aid of 
their Swiss neighbours, made them¬ 
selves free, and then united themselves 
to the Grisons, to which canton also 
belongs the adjoining Val Calanca. 
With the exception of the purely 
Italian canton Tessin, this is the only 
one of the Swiss cantons that extends 
to the S. slopes of the Alps. 

The high road, after some long zig¬ 
zags, bears to the 1., and crosses the 
lateral torrent flowing from that side 
before reaching the lower level of the 
valley. The foot-passenger may save 
much time b.v short-cuts, if he has fol¬ 
lowed thg line of the road. But there 
is a far more interesting way for the 
pedestrian, and but little longer, which 
is found by keeping from San Ber¬ 


nardino along a track near the Moesa, 
and crossing to the rt. bank before the 
steep descent from the upper level of 
the valley. Here, about 1 hr. from San 
Bernardino, the stream makes an ex¬ 
tremely fine waterfall, deserving to be 
counted amongst the noblest in the Alps. 
A slight detour is needed to gain a 
favourable view of the fall. The track 
is well marked on the W. side of the 
valley from the waterfall, which is 
called Alla Spina, to a bridge over the 
Moesa, at the chapel of San Giacomo 
(3,700'). Here the stream is contracted 
between the opposing bases of the 
mountains, but the gorge opens again 
immediately; the road crosses to the rt. 
bank of the Moesa, and another step 
in the floor of the valley leads by a long 
descent to 

Mesocco , also called Cremeo, a large 
village with the post station, and two 
or three very unattractive Inns, fre¬ 
quented by the carters who lead long 
trains of narrow wagons by this road 
into Italy. The position of this village 
is extremely fine. Lying 2,547 ft. above 
the sea, between the Pizzo del Quadra 
(9,925') to the E., and the Cima di Gan- 
gella (9,229') to the W., the surrounding 
scenery is quite alpine in character; 
wdiile the rich foliage of the chestnut, 
which here becomes the prevailing tree, 
as well as the aspect of the people and 
the buildings, inform the traveller that 
he is here on the threshold of Italy. 
The ruined castle of Mesocco com¬ 
mands the village, and forms the central 
object in the beautiful pictures that are 
presented to the traveller on whichever 
side he views it. It is a massive pile, 
with four towers connected by lofty 
walls, crowning a rock in the middle of 
the valley. It long passed for the 
strongest, as it is one of the largest, ot 
the mediajval castles to be found in 
the valleys of the Alps. The fearful 
storm of 1834 has left ineffaceable 
traces of ruin in many places be¬ 
tween this and Roveredo; it not only 
swept away chalets, houses, and bridges, 
but rolled down huge masses of rock 
from the surrounding heights, and 



ROUTE B.— SOURCE OF THE RHINE. 


covered the once fertile fields with 
a thick stratum of barren sand and 
gravel. 

The last of the steep steps in the 
floor of the valley, that characterise 
this, as well as many others lying 
amidst crystalline rocks, leads in 2 m. 
from Mesocco to Soazza (2,067'). The 
scenery is charming throughout the 
whole road, and is adorned by numerous 
cascades formed by torrents from the 
high mountains on either side, that 
spring over the precipitous walls of 
rock enclosing the valley. The finest 
of these, about 4 m. from Mesocco, is 
that of Buffalora. When seen in the 
early summer, or soon after heavy rain, 
it may challenge comparison with any 
of the same class in the Alps. The 
torrent issuing from a deep cleft in the 
mountain above the fall is shot out in 
a liquid column, gradually spreading 
like a comet’s tail, and swayed to and 
fro by the breeze. It is worth while 
to turn aside to the rt. from the 
road, in order to approach as near 
the foot of the fall as the spray will 
permit. 

The path to the Val Calanca, by the 
Passo di Buffalora (Rte. C), follows the 
course of the torrent above the water¬ 
fall. It is best approached from Soazza. 
Between that village and the Fall of 
Buffalora the traveller may notice, on 
the opposite side of the valley, the 
opening of the ravine of the Forcola, 
through which lies a path to Chiavenna, 
noticed in § 33, Rte. E. A very gentle 
descent of 3 m. leads from the Buffa¬ 
lora fall to Lostallo, where there is 
a fair country Inn, without a sign, 
at the post-office, seemingly the best 
between Sau Bernardino and Roveredo. 
The vine, fig, and mulberry now an¬ 
nounce the climate of Italy. About 
3A m. farther is Cama, a very poor 
village, with the post station. Amidst 
scenery constantly increasing in rich¬ 
ness, the road reaches Grono, close to 
the junction of the Calancasca torrent 
with the Moesa. The latter stream,' 
which had hitherto flowed nearly due 
8 from the head of the valley, now 


287 

bends to the E., and in m. from 
Cam a reaches 

Roveredo (974'), a large, well-built, 
and thoroughly Italian-looking village, 
with a ruined castle of the Trivulzi. 
Here the traveller finds fair accommo¬ 
dation (Inns: Croce Bianca, very fair 
country inn, civil people ; Canone 
d’ Oro). A char may be hired here for 
Magadino, 10 fr.; or for Locarno, 11 
oi' 12 fr. On the opposite side of the 
Moesa the picturesque lateral glen 
called Val Traversagna opens to SW. 
There is a path that way to Gravedona, 
on the Lake of Como. Rather more 
than 1 m. from Roveredo the road 
passes S. Vittore, the last Grisons vil¬ 
lage, entering the Canton Tessin before 
it reaches Lumi.no , where there are 
extensive quarries. Here the beautiful 
valley of the Moesa opens out, and is 
united to the broad Riviera, or lower 
reach of the Ticino valley, rather more 
than 2 m. above Bellinzona. The road 
of the St. Gothard is reached close to 
the N. end of the fine bridge over the 
Moesa, mentioned in § 30, Rte. A. 


Route B. 

JHINTERRUEIN TO VAL ELEGNO- 

ASCENT OF PIZ VALRHEIN. 

Although the Vorder Rhein may 
rightly claim to rank as the main 
branch of the great river, and at the 
junction below Reichenau it somewhat 
exceeds in volume the rival stream 
that has reached that place through 
the cleft of the Via Mala, it owes its 
importance to the large number of tor¬ 
rents that have been poured into it 
from as many tributary valleys, and 
the parent stream, descending from the 
lakes of the Badus (§ 27, Rte. D), can 
bear no comparison with the ample 
flow of the main stream of the Hinter 
Rhein. This issues from the glaciers 
on the E. side of the main group of the 
Adula, lying at the head of the Rhein- 
wald valley, which was traced in the 
last Rte. as far as the point near the 










288 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 31 . ADULA DISTEICT. 


■village of Hinterrhein, where the high 
road leaves the stream to climb the 
slopes leading to the Bernardino Pass. 

In early times, religious feelings, no 
doubt heightened by the solemn gran¬ 
deur of the surrounding scenery, at¬ 
tached an especial importance to this, 
which was deemed the cradle of the 
great river of Western Europe. Tra¬ 
dition asserts that the Romans erected 
a temple to the Nymphs somewhere 
near the outflow of the stream from its 
parent glacier, and after the introduc¬ 
tion of Christianity a chapel stood at 
or near the same spot. Both temple 
and chapel have disappeared and left 
no trace behird; but a bell, said to have 
belonged to the latter, is shown in the 
church at Hinterrhein. In modern 
times this spot has fallen into undeserved 
neglect, but it will probably become 
soon a more frequent resort of moun¬ 
taineers, as the Swiss Alpine Club has 
opened a comfortable hut at the Zapport 
Alp, convenient for many expeditions 
hereafter noticed. The excursion to 
the source of the Rhine may be con¬ 
nected with an expedition of con¬ 
siderable interest to mountaineers, and 
of no great difficulty—the ascent of 
the highest of the Adula Alps. About 
6 hrs. going and returning, exclusive 
of halts, will suffice for a steady walker 
who is content to reach the so-called 
Paradies, the usual limit of the excur¬ 
sion ; but those who would attain the 
higher point, where the torrent first 
breaks out from the Rheinwald Glacier, 
must add at least 3 hrs. to the day’s 
excursion. The younger Lovetz and 
J. C. Muller of Hinterrhein have been 
recommended as guides. Practised 
mountaineers, with good guides, may 
traverse either of the new passes, de¬ 
scribed below, leading to Val Blegno. 

After crossing the bridge ^ m. above 
Hinterrhein, the path turns aside from 
the road to the Bernardino, and follows 
the rt. bank of the stream. Floods and 
avalanches make wild work in this 
valley, and the path is constantly car¬ 
ried away, so that it is usually neces¬ 
sary to go over much rough ground. 


As the traveller advances, the scenery 
becomes more and more wild; the pines 
dwindle to stunted stumps, and their 
place is taken by alpine willows and 
rhododendron, while the mountains on 
either hand close together, leaving 
barely space for the stream. The spring 
avalanches fall so thickly into the 
ravine, that they form snow-bridges, 
one or more of which usually remains 
throughout the year. Crossing the 
stream by one of these, but with due 
caution, the traveller continues the 
ascent along the opposite bank. In 
about 2 hrs. from the stone bridge near 
Hinterrhein the channel becomes con¬ 
tracted to a mere gorge, and the path 
turns away from the stream and begins 
to climb the steep slope on the 1. bank 
leading to the pastures of the Zapport 
Alp , the highest chalet of the Rhein¬ 
wald. The view from this point is 
already extremely fine, but it is far 
surpassed by that obtained from the 
spot called Paradies, reached in about 
| hr. Irom the Alp, or 3^ hrs.’ steady 
walking from Hinterrhein. This is a 
small patch of alpine flowery sward 
lying in the centre of a vast amphi¬ 
theatre which includes all the highest 
summits of the Adula group, whence 
stream down vast glaciers that seem 
to converge towards the spot where the 
spectator stands. There is some con¬ 
fusion as to the names both of the 
peaks and glaciers. The central and 
highest peak is Piz Valrhein (11,148') 
lying nearly due W. of the Paradies. 
On the N. side of the amphitheatre is 
the Guferhorn (11,132'), and opposite 
to it, on the S. side, the Vogelberg 
(10,564'). From above the Paradies, a 
steep ridge of rocks runs up nearly to 
the peak of the Vogelberg, almost com¬ 
pletely dividing the great glacier basin 
into two separate ice-streams. On the 
Swiss Federal Map, the name Zapport 
Glacier has been applied to the entire 
mass; but this is manifestly incon¬ 
venient, and the western glacier de¬ 
scending from Piz Valrhein is known 
as Rheinwald Glacier, while the name 
Zapport Glacier is reserved for the 




ROUTE B-ASCENT OF PIZ VALRHEIN. 


289 


equally extensive tract lying E. of the 
dividing ridge. The designation Zap- 
porthorn must be given up, as it has 
been applied alternately to one or other 
of the adjoining peaks. Immediately 
below the Paradies is a savage rift in 
the rock, forming a deep chasm called 
Holle (Hell). Beyond this the stream 
of the Rhine is seen to emerge from 
the base of the Rheinwald Gl., and this 
is usually pointed out as the source of 
the Rhine, or Rheinquelle. Some of 
the native hunters maintain that the 
true source is much higher up, at rocks 
where the stream first breaks out from 
under the ice of the Rheinwald Glacier, 
which may be reached in 1^ or 2 hrs. 
from the Paradies. This is in truth an 
object of secondary interest. It is 
clear that the drainage of both the 
great glaciers that descend this way 
must ultimately reach the Rhine stream. 
The main object of the excursion is to 
enjoy the very grand scenery. One 
Pass to Zavreila and the Valserthal is 
noticed in Rte. F. From the expedi¬ 
tions made by Mr. Freshfield, and more 
lately by Mr. Tuckett, it is clear that a 
pass from that side to the Rheinwald 
Gl. is practicable, though rather diffi¬ 
cult. See Rte. F. 

Ascent of Piz Valrhein (11,148'). 
This peak, the highest of the Lepontine 
Alps, was attained in 1789 by Placidus 
a Spcscha. For seventy years no at¬ 
tempt seems to have been made to 
repeat the ascent. In 1859, that in¬ 
trepid but somewhat rash moun¬ 
taineer, M. Weilenmann, reached the 
summit alone. The next ascent was 
made in 1861 by M. Coaz, with three 
companions, and a chamois-hunter 
named Peter Anton Jellier, of \ als, 
who is probably a competent guide in 
this district. The last-named traveller 
has given an account of the expedi¬ 
tion in the Jaliresbericht der Naturfor- 
schenden Geselhchaft Graubiindens for 
the same year. Sleeping at the Zap- 
port Alp, they mounted to the spot 
above described as Paradies, which is 
called by M. Coaz Purgatorium. A 
faint sheep-tract was followed for some 

PART II. 


distance: they then took to the gla¬ 
cier, but after some time returned to its 
S. bank. The first stage of the ascent 
was completed when they gained the 
col (Lenta Pass) in the ridge between 
the Piz Valrhein and the Guferhorn. 
From thence the way lies along the 
arete. This is very narrow, an<k in 
some places difficult, where steep rocks 
project through the neve. After ov< r- 
coming the rocks, the traveller finds 
the ridge wider, but also much steeper 
than below, and to reach the highest 
point it is necessary to wind round the 
N. side of the peak, so that the final 
climb is made from the NW. The 
summit is a ridge about 200 ft. long, 
running from N. to S , and in one part 
bare of snow. Here in the two recent 
ascents were found some remains of 
the stone man erected there seventy 
years before by Placidus a Spescha. 
Including a halt for breakfast, the as¬ 
cent from the Zapport Alp took 5f hrs, 
and the descent thither from the sum¬ 
mit 3 hrs. The panorama is neces¬ 
sarily very extensive, as no peaks of 
equal height are to be found nearer 
than the Monte della Disgrazia, the 
Tddi, and the Galenstock ; but the view 
is especially interesting for the insight 
which it gives into the orography of 
the neighbouring Alps. Four valleys 
appear to radiate from this peak as a 
centre. To the E. the Rheinwald ex¬ 
tends in a straight line to the defile of 
Rofia. On the N. the Lenta Glacier 
falls into the head of one of the 
branches of the Valserthal. To the 
NW. is the Val Carassina, further no¬ 
ticed below. Finally, on the S. side 
the peak overlooks the head of Val 
Malvaglia. On the S. side the moun¬ 
tain is much steeper than elsewhere, 
and but one small glacier (that of 
Stabbio) finds a resting-place on that 
declivity. 

The peaks of this group had been 
neglected by English travellers until 
1863, when Mr. Morshead made the 
first ascent of the Vogelberg. In the 
following year Mr. Freshfield, with 
two friends, reached the summit of Pia 
U 



290 


LEPONTINE ALPS. 


§ 

Valrhein from the side of the Lenta 
Glacier (Rte. F), striking the shoulder 
of the peak high above the lowest 
point in the ridge connecting it with 
theGuferhorn. In 1865, Messrs. Moore 
and II. Walker made a very interest¬ 
ing expedition, in the course of which 
the^ effected two new passes, either of 
which may serve as a communication 
between the head of the Bheinwald 
and Val Blegno. 

In this woik the term ‘ Pass ’ is ap¬ 
plied only to passages over Alpine 
ridges that practically serve to connect 
one inhabited place with another, and 
not merely to points where it has been 
touad practicable to traverse the crest 
of a ridge. The so-called ‘ Bre-ciana 
Pass ’ does not fall within the former 
definition, and, if used at all, it should 
rather be approached through Val 
Soja than by the circuitous way taken 
through Val Carassina. 

The following account is given in 
the words of Mr Moore. It must be 
recollected that both travelers are very 
active mountaineers, and were accom¬ 
panied by Jacob Anderegg, a first-rate 
guide. 

‘ We pa-sed the night of June 23rd 
at the Bolla Alp in Val Carassina , 
2^- hrs. from Olivone. Anyone having 
an idle afternoon at Olivone, is recom¬ 
mended to make an excursion as far as 
this point, as the scenery is very pic¬ 
turesque, but the path is cruelly steep. 
The formation of the Val Carassina is 
very curious. After following a direc¬ 
tion from S. to N. for four-fifths of its 
length, the torrent takes an abrupt 
turn to the SW., and finds its way to 
join the Brenno at Olivone, through a 
ravine which is scarcely visible from 
below. At the angle, a low grass col 
communicates to the N. with Val Luz- 
zone and Ghirone, while the extreme 
head of the valley is only separated by 
a tract of broken ground from the Val 
Soja, which joins the Val Blegno at 
Dangio below Olivone. The valley, 
in fact, is like a trough open at either 
end, but with its drainage escaping 
laterally. From Olivone to the first 


31 . ADULA DISTRICT. 

Alp, of Compieto, is a continuous as¬ 
cent of more than 3,000 ft., thence to 
Bolla is a further rise of about 500 ft., 
above which the valley is almost level. 
From Bolla we looked over the Col to 
the N., to the glaciers at the heart of 
Val Camadra, the real outlet of the 
valley towards Olivone being invi¬ 
sible. Starting at 4.10, a.m., we 
reached the Bresciana Alp (6,175'), in 
an hour, and at 5.50 were close to the 
head of the valley. We then steered 
for a patch of moraine which was 
visible high up on the hill side to the 
E., reached it in 1 hr., and found, as 
we had expected, that we were on the 
right lateral moraine of the southern 
or principal branch of the Bresciana 
Glacier, iroin which we got on to the 
ice in 5 min. without difficulty, some 
way abo'e its termination. The Bres¬ 
ciana Glacier, which is a very fine one, 
flows in a westerly direction from the 
very summit of the Rheinwaldhorn. 
We might have gone straight to the 
top of that peak, but the snow was in 
bad order, and therefore, to save labour, 
we bore away to the left, and struck 
the ridge above the Lenta Glacier in 
2 hrs. from where we took to the ice. 
Several small difficulties were encoun¬ 
tered en route, and some step-cuiting 
was occasionally required. The views 
throughout of the Monte Rosa and 
Oberland groups were very fine. Turn¬ 
ing to the right, we followed the ridge 
until it merged in the snow-slope form¬ 
ing the northern face of the peak, which 
feeds both the Lenta and Bresciana 
Glaciers, passed along the face of this 
slope to the ridge above the Rheinwald 
Glacier, and so reached the summit by 
the old route, at 10.30, in 45 min. from 
the point where we had struck the ridge 
above the Lenta Glacier, and 5f hrs. 
from the chalets. The pass, whicn we 
had thus effected, gives access to either 
the Lenta Thai, or Hinterrhein, and 
may conveniently be called ‘ Bresciana 
Pass.’ Its height is about 10,500'. In¬ 
stead of descending by the usual route, 
we went straight down the steep eastern 
face of the peak, in 45 min., to the 





ROUTE B.—ZAPPORT PASS. 


291 


Hheinwald Glacier. This requires cau¬ 
tion. Thence, in 30 min., we reached 
a wide opening in the ridge overlooking 
the Val Malvaglia, at the point marked 
on the map 2,938' or 9,639', which we 
propose to call Vogel Juch , for want of 
a better name. It commands a grand 
view of Monte Rosa and the Oberland. 
The descent into Val Malvaglia, though 
presenting no difficulty, is of the most 
tedious and wearisome character, lying 
over steep slopes of shale, stones, and 
debris, varied by smooth bits of rock 
here and there, which have to be 
avoided. It took us nearly 2^ hrs. to 
reach the level of the valley, which 
we struck opposite to the Bolla Alp on 
the rt. bank of the stream. We crossed 
to this Alp (not to be confounded with 
that of the same name in Val Caras- 
sina), but found no one there, alt hough 
many cows were grazing around. We 
therefore descended the valley for a 
short distance, then we crossed the 
stream, and skirted the slopes on the 1. 
bank, until we fell into a path leading up 
a large glen, which opens out to ENE. 
below Bolla. Followingthis path, which 
is extremely steep, we reached, in l^hr. 
from Bolla, the unoccupied chalets of 
Pena, where we passed the night. 

‘ The extreme head of Val Malvaglia 
presents a scene of the greatest desola¬ 
tion. but its central and lower regions 
appeared to be picturesque. 

‘ Looking up from Pena, it is diffi¬ 
cult to see how the head of the glen, in 
which it is situated, is to be reached, 
as an amphitheatre of black, shaly 
precipices, over which stream number¬ 
less waterfalls, appears to bar all pt'o- 
gress. There is, however, a steep and 
narrow, but well-marked track, on the 
N. side of the glen, which leads to an 
extensive tract of level ground above 
the cliffs, and on the E. side of this 
is situated the Giumello Alp (6,772'). 
Starting from Pena at 3 55 a.m , and 
following this track, which, but for the 
opportune appearance of a goatherd, 
we should probably not have dis¬ 
covered, we reached a point opposite 
the Giumello Alp in 1 hr. From here, 

u 


a passage might probably be effected 
at many points over the ridge to the 
E. into Val Calanca. One such pas¬ 
sage is certainly known to the natives, 
who strongly urged us to take it, in 
preference to trying to find a route to 
Hinterrhein, which they maintained to 
be impracticable. Steering a little E. 
of N., we ascended the steep grass 
slopes forming the base of the Vogel- 
berg, which, on this side, is a fine coni¬ 
cal rock peak, bare of snow. In 1^ 
hr. of perfectly easy walking, we took 
to a small, nearly level glacier, not 
marked in the map, over which, in 50 
min. we reached a Col, which may be 
called Zapport Pass, SE. of the Vogel- 
berg, lying exactly at the head of the 
Zapport Glacier. The height of the 
pass must be about 9,600'. The ascent 
from Pena only occupied 3^ hrs., and 
nothing could be easier or more agree¬ 
able than the route. In descending, 
we kept to the 1. side of the Zapport 
Glacier, and in 45 min. got on to the 
promontory which separates it from 
the Rheinwald Glacier. Below this 
we lost much time for want of local 
knowledge, and spent 1^- hr. in getting 
clear of the glacier to the Zapport 
Alp. the way being very puzzling. We 
reached Hinterrhein at 1.25 in 7| hrs. 
actual walking from Pena, but the dis¬ 
tance might be accomplished in 6^ hrs. 
Persons taking this pass from Hinterr¬ 
hein, should bear in mind that in de¬ 
scending it is scarcely possible to keep 
too much to the right. The track com¬ 
municating with the lower valley starts 
from the N. side of the plain on which 
is the Giumello Alp. The chalets lie 
out of the direct way, and should be 
avoided.’ [ A. W. M.] 

Of the two passes leading to Val 
Malvaglia, the Vogel Joch will be pre¬ 
ferred by th se wishing to ascend Piz 
Valrhein, but it is injured by the un¬ 
pleasant nature of the descent into 
Val Malvaglia. The Zapport Fass is 
strongly recommended to mountaineers, 
being very direct, and inten sting on 
both sides. It may be combined with 
the ascent of the Vogelberg. 

2 






292 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 


Route C. 

SAN BERNARDINO TO ROYEREDO, BY 
VAL CALANCA. 

9 to 10 hrs. walking. 

The Val Calanca is an unfrequented 
valley, intermediate between the Val 
Blegno and Yal Mesocco, running due 
S. from the glaciers of the Marscholl- 
horn to its junction with the last-named 
valley near Roveredo. Unlike the 
neighbouring valleys, this leads to no 
practicable pass across the main chain, 
and if any exist it must be long and 
difficult. The consequence is, that very 
few travellers have turned aside from 
their route to pay it a visit. It is 
mainly known through the migratory 
character of its inhabitants, who appa¬ 
rently fail to find a subsistence in this 
narrow glen, shut in between high and 
rugged mountains, and are found scat¬ 
tered over the N. of Italy, where they 
find employment as glaziers, stone¬ 
masons, chimney-sweeps, &c. 

The head of the valley, called Alpe 
di Stabbio, lies between the Pizzo di 
Muccia (9,721') and Piz Crave (9,282') 
to the E., and a glacier-covered ridge 
culminating in the Fil Rosso (10,066') 
to the W. From San Bernardino (Rte. 
A) a path, imperfectly traced, leads over 
the ridge immediately N. of the Piz 
Crave by the Col dei Tre Uomini to the 
head of Val Calanca; and by another 
much easier pass, called Col dei Passetti 
(6,806'), S. of the same peak, the chalets 
of Alogna (4,656') are reached in 3^ hrs 
About 1 hr. below these chalets is Val 
bella ( 4,383'), the highest hamlet in the 
valley, connected with the village of 
Mesocco (Rte. A) by a pass called 
Passo di Treseulmene (7,064'). Less 
than 1 hr. lower down is Rossa (3,606'), 
where a path turns off to the W., lead¬ 
ing in 4^ hrs. to Malvaglia in Yal 
Blegno, by the Passo di Giumella 
(6,955'). See § 30. Rte. F. 

Below Rossa the tra k. keeping to the 
rt. bank of the Calancasca, very soon 
reaches Auyio, and £ hr. farther, Santa 


31 . ADULA DISTRICT. 

Domenica (3,412'). [Here the track 
to the Baffalora Pass (6,686') mounts 
nearly due E. About 4 hrs. suffice to 
reach Soazza (Rte. A), some distance 
above the beautiful waterfall of Buf- 
falora. An active walker, starting 
early from S. Bernardino, might enter 
the head of Val Calanca at the chalets 
of Alogna, descend to Santa Domenica, 
and then return to Val Mesocco by the 
Baffalora Pass, finding fair quarters for 
the night at Lostallo.] The direct 
road down the Val Calanca descends 
in 3^ hrs. from Santa Domenica to Ro¬ 
veredo, passing Arvigo, and crossing to 
the 1. bank at Molina. The lower end 
of the valley, overlooked by a ruined 
castle standing near the hamlet of Santa 
Maria, is very picturesque. The 
junction with Val Mesocco is at a very 
beautiful point, less than 1 m. above 
Roveredo (Rte. A). 


Route D. 

TRONS TO OLIVONE, BY THE GREINA 
PASS. 

lj hr. to Surrhein—6 hrs thence to Greina 
Pass— 3$ hrs descending to Olivone. Path 

pass^bL for mules. 

Having (in Rte. A) described the 
main line of road that follows the line 
of valley forming the E. limit of the 
Adula group, we now proceed to notice 
the valleys through which the torrents 
from the N. side of the same range are 
poured into the northern branch of the 
Rhine, or Vorder Rhein. The eastern¬ 
most of these valleys in the Val Tenji, 
called by the German Swiss Somvixer- 
thul, because it joins the Vorderrhein 
valley at Somvix, 1 hr. above Trons 
(§ 27, Rte. C). Though it is a walk 
of 6 hrs. from the opening to the Greina 
Pass connecting the head of the valley 
with the Val Blegno, it contains no 
village, but only scattered groups of 
houses, unless we include Surrhein, 
standing at its mouth in the angle 
between the Somvixer Rheiu and the 
main stream of the Vorder Rhein. The 






ROUTE D. 


LAYAZ JOCII. 


lower part is \ery narrow, in many 
parts a mere ravine, lying between the 
high range of the Medelser Gebirge to 
the YV., and a nearly equally lofty range 
10 the E., which forms the N. extremity 
of the Adula range. In this range the 
Piz Miezdi (9,259') is one of the most 
conspicuous summits. 

This sparsely-peopled glen offers 
much wild scenery, and the traveller 
or naturalist who may halt a day or 
two at the rough but tolerable quarters 
found at the Tenniger Bad will find 
ample occupation in exploring its re¬ 
cesses. A general view of this and 
the Medelserihal may be gained by 
mounting this valley to the Lavaz 
Joch (see below), and descending to 
Dissentis through the Medelserthal— 
a walk of 9 or 10 hrs. The primaeval 
forest shelters the bear and lynx, and 
the flora is yet scarcely examined. 

The path mounts from Surrhein 
(reached in 1^ hr. from Trons), above 
the 1. bank of the torrent. The scat¬ 
tered houses on that side with a chapel 
at 3,076 ft. bear the collective name 
Vais, while those on the opposite side, 
connected by a bridge, are called 
Bubretsch. S. of the latter precipitous 
faces of grey slate rock fall towards 
the stream, and make impossible the 
ascent along tne E. side of the valley. 
Above these rocks are seen the alpine 
pastures of Niidils, and above them the 
t iz Niidils, a northern promontory from 
the ridge of the Piz Miezdi. At the 
junction of a torrent descending from 
the W. the valley widens out a little, 
two chapels and several groups of houses 
are passed, and the path reaches the 

Tenniger Bad ( 4,17 7'),lying in a very 
sheltered position in the hollow of the 
valley, little more than 1 hr. from 
Surrhein. The mineral waters contain 
iron and sulphur, and enjoy some local 
reputation. The arrangements are of 
the most primitive kind, and the baths 
are formed by hollowing out the trunks 
of large trees. Above the baths the 
valley is narrowed to a ravine, and 
the scenery is very M ild. In ^ hr. the | 
traveller reaches the ilhun Alp, and a j 


2<j3 

group of substantial houses, whence it is 
possible to cross the ridge on the E. side 
of the valley by the shoulder of the Piz 
Miezdi, and descends to Tavanassa on 
the Vorder Rhein (§27, Rte. G), by the 
ValGronda. Farther S. is th eCavelJoch, 
between the Piz Miezdi and the Piz 
Cavel (9,658'), leading to the Vrintlial 
(Rte. E) through the Val Cavel. These 
passes are rough, rarely used, and a 
guide should be taken. The path up the 
main valley crosses the stream below 
the chapel of St. Anthony—whence 
the Romantsch name Val Tenji is sup¬ 
posed to be derived—and returns by a 
second bridge (4,396') to the E. bank. 
A little higher up is the junction of a 
considerable torrent, descending from 
the VV. through the Val Lavaz , with 
the main stream. S. of the junction, in 
the angle between that and the main 
valley, rises the snowy peak of the Piz 
Vial —Ital. Gallinario —10,387 it. in 
height, one of the loftiest summits of 
the Medelser Gebirge, of which group 
it forms the E. extremity. 

[There is a pass to the Medelserthal 
by the Lavaz Joch, which is con¬ 
venient for those who would see some¬ 
thing of that valley and Val Tenji on 
their way between Ilanz and Disseutis. 
Before reaching the Rhun Alp, a sheep- 
track turns to the rt., and mounts 
steeply to an alpine pasture command¬ 
ing a view of the Tbdi range to the 
N., and overlooking the deep glen of 
Lavaz. Beyond this the way lies 
along the declivity over rough ground, 
with fine views of the snowy summits 
of the Medelser Gebirge on the oppo¬ 
site side of the glen. The Lavaz Gla¬ 
cier closes its liead, but there is an 
easy ascent, keeping to the rt., which 
leads to the Lavaz Joch ^8,232'), where 
the traveller gains an unexpectedly 
fine view of the Medelser Glacier, 
whose great extent is not so well ap¬ 
preciated from any other point. A 
steep track leads by the side of the 
moraine to the Plat;as Alp. The 
easiest way from that place is to de¬ 
scend to Curaglia on the mule-track 
I from t ie Lukmanier Pass to Lissentis, 



204 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 31. ADULA DISTRICT. 


which is reached in 7 hrs., exclusive 
of halts, from the Tenniger Bad.] 
Above the junction of the Yal 
Lavaz the main valley is often called 
Yal Greina, but this name properly 
belongs only to the upper valley 
leading to the Greina Pass. The 
way here makes a considerable circuit 
round the E. side of the Piz Vial. The 
upper end of the Yal Tenji lies amid 
crystalline rocks in which gneiss pre¬ 
dominates. Like most highland valleys 
similarly placed, this forms a succes¬ 
sion of plateaux, separated by steep 
steps of rock down which the torrent 
falls in foaming cataracts. To the 1. 
is seen the Disrut Pass, leading to the 
Yrinthal (Rte. E). The traveller who 
does not wish to cross the main chain 
may return that way to the Vorder- 
rhein valley. A rather steep ascent 
to the rt. leads to what appears from 
below to be the crest of the pass divid¬ 
ing this from the Val Blegno; but when 
the traveller has reached a height ex¬ 
ceeding 7,300 ft. he sees w ith surprise 
a nearly level upland glen of consider¬ 
able extent opening out nearly due W. 
between the Gallinario Glacier, sur¬ 
mounted by the Piz Vial, to the N., 
and some of the peaks of the Terri 
range to the S. Nearly 2 hrs. are 
required to traverse the wild and lonely 
Vai Greina , and a merely trifling ascent 
leads at length to the summit of the 
Greina Pass (7,743'). Being turned 
at rt. angles to the direction of the 
main valleys on either side, and shut 
in by high mountains, the chief of which 
is the Cinia Caniadia (10,509'), lying 
W. of the Gallinario, the path com¬ 
mands no distant view. On the W. 
side a rapid descent leads down to the 
head of the Val Camadra, the main 
branch of the Val Blegno. This opens 
out due S , and a tolerably well-marked 
path lies on the rt. bank of the stream. 
After a while the traveller may choose 
between a path on the 1. bank passing 
by Ghirone (4,091'), or that keeping 
by the rt. bank which traverses Campo 
(4,029'). Here two alpine glens descend 
into the Val Camadra. That which 


opens on the W. side—called Ya! di 
Campo—leads by a pass noticed in § So, 
Rte. F, to the Lago Retico, lying in the 
heart of the Medelser Gebirge. By 
that way the mountaineer may reach 
the Medelserthal through the Val Cris- 
tallina. On the E. side of the Val 
Camadra is the opening of the Val 
Luzzon, remarkable for wild scenery 
and fine waterfalls. The SE. branch 
leads to Zavreila (Rte. F) by the Sca- 
radra Pass. Instead of following the 
ordinary course over the Greina Pass 
above described, the mountaineer may 
turn to the S. from the Val Greina 
about 1 hr. before he reaches the pass, 
and traverse the low ridge on his 1., 
only 7,415 ft. in height. Descending 
thence by the Garsura Alp, which lies 
in the NE. branch of the Val Luzzon, 
he will reach Olivone in about the 
same time as by the common rte. For 
all these passes it is expedient to take 
a guide. The distances are consider¬ 
able, and the valleys very unfrequented. 
Even on the regular track of the Greina 
a traveller may often w alk for 4 hrs. 
without meeting a human being. 

At Campo the change of climate on 
the Italian side of the Alps is manifest; 
corn-fields and deciduous trees are 
found at a greater height than on the 
opposite side. The path crosses to the 
1. bank, and about 2 m. lower down 
reaches Olivone (§ 30, Rte. F). 


Route E. 

ILANZ TO OLIVONE, BY THE VRINTHAL. 

Hrs.’ Eng. 

walking miles 


‘2 6 

3£ 9 

I4j 3» 

As far as Vrin the way is passable 
for horses, and even for a light char. 


Villa . 
Lumbrein . 
Vrin 

Dn-rut Pass. 
(ireina Pass 
Olivone 










ROUTE E. -LUGNETZTHAL. 


Horses cannot go much farther, but a 
traveller starting from Olivone may 
ride nearly to the top of the Disrut 
Pass. There is a fair country Inn at 
Villa. Those who wish to shorten still 
more the next day’s journey should 
apply for lodging to the cure at Vrin. 

The most considerable of the many 
tributary streams poured into the Vor- 
der Rhein between its source and its 
junction with the Hinter Rhein at 
Reichenau is the Glenner , which de¬ 
scends into the main valley close to 
Ilanz from the Lugnetzthal, erroneously 
written Lungnetzthal in the Swiss 
Federal Map. This considerable valley 
is formed by the union, about 5 m. 
from Ilanz, of two main branches, of 
which the SW. branch, or Vrinthal, 
leads to the Val Blegno by the way 
here described, while the southern 
branch, or Valserthal, mounts due S. 
towards the higher peaks of the Adula. 
Each of the two branches above named 
is again subdivided into alpine glens 
that are noticed in the present and the 
two following Rtes. A traveller arriving 
from Reichenau may enter the Lug¬ 
netzthal by Seewis on its rt. bank (see 
Rte. F) without passing through Ilanz; 
but unless he desires to reach without 
delay the Baths of Peiden,he will gain 
no time by that course, and will find 
the path more laborious and less inter¬ 
esting. Ilanz offers good accommo¬ 
dation, and is the best starting-point 
for the ascent of the Piz Mundaun (§ 27, 
Rte. C), strongly recommended to tra¬ 
vellers in this valley. The course here 
described is the most direct way from 
that place to the S. side of the main 
chain; and though the scenery is not 
equal to that of the next Rte., it has 
the recommendation of being much 
easier of access. 

It will make the description of the 
main portion of the Lugnetzthal more 
intelligible to state that it appears, 
during some very long period, to have 
formed the bed of a lake, in which 
vast masses of ice-borne materials 
were deposited, until the basin was 
nearly or altogether filled up. The 


main stream of the Glenner and many 
lateral torrents have cut deeply into 
the thick alluvial deposit, clearing out 
wide spaces, but leaving on either side 
of the valley portions of the plateau 
which once extended across it at a 
great height above the present bed of 
the stream. The Glenner, not content 
with excavating the softer deposit, has 
in many places cut a deep trench in 
the underlying slate rocks, so that the 
actual course of the stream is seldom 
visible from the surrounding heights. 
Besides the way on the rt. bank noticed 
in the following Rte. and the frequented 
road passable for light chars described 
here, the botanist or geologist may 
follow the 1. bank of the stream from 
Ilanz for some distance ; but as this 
finally enters an impassable gorge, he 
must be prepared to gain the road above 
by a rather long and steep scramble. 

The regular way into the Lugnetz¬ 
thal follows tor a while the same course 
that is taken in the ascent of the Piz 
Mundaun. At the church of St. Mar¬ 
tin, instead of continuing to ascend, a 
rough road is carried nearly at a level 
along the wooded slope of the moun¬ 
tain. Not long after passing the ruins 
of Castelberg, the traveller reaches an 
ancient gateway (3,337'), at a point 
where the mountain below is almost 
precipitous, and the rocks above are so 
steep as to afford no easy passage. This 
portal is famous in the local annals by 
the name Fruuenthor, from the success¬ 
ful stand here made by the women of 
the valley against an armed body 
headed by the Count of Montfort, while 
the men were victoriously engaged 
against his main force on the heights 
above. In memory of the day, when 
the Count and many of his knights 
became the prisoners of a few armed 
peasants, the women have preserved, 
in the village of Pleif, the privilege of 
sitting on the rt. side of the church, 
which elsewhere in Switzerland is re¬ 
served for the stronger sex. A short 
way beyond the Frauenthor of Porclas 
the path passes St. Moritz, and in hr. 
more, or about 2 hrs. from Ilanz, reaches 




2P6 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 

Cumbels, rather a large village, 3,837 
ft. above the sea, or 1,480 ft. above 
Ilanz. This stands on the level of the 
ancient lake terrace, at a great height 
above the Glenner, commanding an 
extensive view over the valley and the 
range of the Signina Stock, dividing 
this from the Savien valley. 

Here those who are bound for the 
Baths of Beiden leave the main track 
up the valley, and descend by a rough 
and steep road, just passable for light 
chars. There is a mineral spring on 
the W. side of the Glenner, but the 
sources used for baths and for drinking 
are on the opposite bank, reached by a 
wooden bridge. Here in a warm and 
sheltered position, only 2,690 ft. above 
the sea, stands the new substantial 
building, which affords very fair ac¬ 
commodation for 50 or 60 persons. 
The waters are saline and chalybeate, 
somewhat similar to those of San Ber¬ 
nardino, but the climate is here far 
milder. They are considered to be 
efficacious in cases of disordered di¬ 
gestion, nervous debility, and in some 
affections of the respiratory organs. 
The Baths are in an old wooden build¬ 
ing, close by the new establishment. 
Another spring supplies the water used 
for drinking. A third, much stronger, 
is little used. The springs were tem¬ 
porarily obstructed, and the house se¬ 
riously damaged by the inundations of 
Oct 1868, which did frightful damage, 
''hev were not reopened in June 1869. 

Returning to the main road at Cum¬ 
bels, the traveller in ^ hr. farther 
reaches Villa (4,081'), the principal 
place in the main valley, with a fair 
country Inn. Near at hand is the 
church of Pleif, which ranks for im¬ 
portance and antiquity above all those 
of the neighbourhood. Nearly opposite 
Villa, but at a much lower level, is 
Forth (Rom., Uorts), close to the junc¬ 
tion of the two main branches of the 
Glenner, of which that issuing from 
the Vrinthal is followed in the present 
Rte. It is remarkable for the dark 
colour of its water, derived from the 
friable biack slate rocks amidst which I 


31 . ADULA DISTRICT. 

it passes. The road from Villa tra¬ 
verses the hamlet of Igels, with some 
remains of two ancient castles; but 
there is a shorter path passing Rumein, 
and meeting the road again at Vigens. 
On the opposite side of the valley are 
the considerable remains of Surkasti 
or Oberkastels, a castle with local his¬ 
torical associations, and an adjoining 
village of the same name. It deserves 
a visit from those who halt at the 
Baths of Peiden. After passing Vigens 
(4,071'), the road reaches Lumbrein 
(4,626'), a large village, near the open¬ 
ing of the Val Cuvet , through which 
lies a way to the Val Tenji. noticed in 
the last Rte. From this place, or from 
Vrin, several of the adjoining peaks 
maybe easily ascended. The Biz Cavel 
(9,659') is best approached from the 
pass (8.320') leading to Val Tenji by 
the NW, side, or else from the feE. 
mounting from Buzatsch. Like all the 
higher summits of these valleys, it is 
known by several different names. 
The Biz Regina (9,436'), lying in the 
angle betw een the two branches of the 
Glenner, is also easily accessible from 
Lumbrein ; the view is restricted to 
the S. by the much higher mass of the 
Piz Aul. Above Lumbrein the valley 
is contracted to a gorge, but soon widens 
out again, and in 1^ hr. the traveller 
reaches 

Vrin (4,770'), the central point of a 
number of scattered houses and hamlets 
belonging to the same commune. Here 
the cure gives lodgiug to strangers. 
The neighbouring peaks offer many 
interesting ascents and excursions to 
those who would remain here some 
days. The village stands close to the 
point where the Vrin divides into two 
branches: the western branch leading 
to the Disrut Pass is the Val Buzatsch; 
the longer E. branch is called Val 
Vanescha. The latter wild glen runs 
up into the heart of a small group of 
high mountains, often called the Terri 
Gebirge, and it is a ramification of this 
range that forms the mountain mass 
which culminates in the Piz Aul. SE. 
of Vrin. Among several other names 





ROUTE E.—DISRUT PASS. 


297 


for the same peak, it is called Piz Eeis 
in the Valserthal. On that side it rises 
so precipitously as to be quite inacces¬ 
sible; but the summit, 10,250 ft. in 
height, may be reached from Vrin or 
Lumbrein, through the Val Serenasgia. 
The shepherd’s hut at the head of that 
glen lies at no great distance from the 
glacier which leads to the highest point, 
formed of gneiss. This is a rather con¬ 
siderable expedition, involving a long 
day’s work, and none of the recognised 
precautions should be omitted in the 
ascent of the glacier. Equalling or 
surpassing in height all the neighbour¬ 
ing peaks, the summit commands a 
very extensive panorama. It immedi¬ 
ately overlooks a small lake, lying so 
high that the ice on it very rarely melts. 

[The Val Vanescha well deserves a 
visit. It opens due S. from Vrin, and 
its head is encompassed by several fine 
glacier-clad peaks. The highest, Piz 
Terri (10,338'), sometimes called for 
distinction Terri di Canal, lies SW.; 
in the centre is the Piz Scherboda 
(10,250'), also called Terri di Derlun; 
and the SE. peak is called Frunthorn 
(9,954'). On the N. side of the latter 
peak is a remarkable depression in the 
range connecting it with Piz Aul, over 
which the easy pass of the Pettnauer 
Joch leads to the Valserthal between 
Vais and Zavreila (see next Rte). The 
Frunthorn and Scherboda are both ac¬ 
cessible from the N. or NW.; but the 
remarkable pyramidal peak of the Terri 
is far more difficult of access. The 
only ascent hitherto recorded was made 
in the last century by Placidus a Spes- 
cha. He started from the hamlet of 
Vanescha (5,873'), ascended westward 
to the Blengias Alp, and then mounted 
by the glacier lying on the NW. side 
of the peak. This was at last attacked 
from the E. side. Having gained the 
ridge, he found that he was cut off 
from the highest point by a deep rift 
in the rock. The passage of this seems 
to have been so perilous that the ex¬ 
ploit has not since been repeated. It 
would appear that a fine pass across 
the main chain might be made from 


the head of the Val Vanescha, between 
the Scherboda and the Terri, descend¬ 
ing westward towards Val Blegno by 
the Garsura Alp at the head of the 
Val Luzzon (Rte. D). This is recom¬ 
mended to mountaineers who may visit 
this valley.] 

The usual object of those who reach 
Vrin from Ilanz is to pass into Italy 
by the Val Blegno. The way lies 
through the branch of the Vrinthal 
called Val Buzatsch. This does not 
lead directly to the Val Blegno, but 
only to that high plateau at the head 
of Val Tenji described in Rte. D under 
the name Val Greina. After crossing 
a torrent that descends from the W. to 
join the Glenner, the path from Vrin 
ascends gently, due SW., to Buzatsch 
(5,456'), the last hamlet in this branch 
of the valley, reached in 1 hr. from 
Vrin. It is expedient to take a guide 
for the remainder of the way, until 
reaching the descent into Val Blegno, 
as if clouds should come it is almost 
impossible to preserve the true direction. 
Above Buzatsch the ascent becomes 
rather steep, and towards the top it lies 
over patches of snow and loose slopes 
of debris, without any trace of path. 
In 2 hrs. ascending, the summit of the 
JJisrnt Pass (7 ,953' ) is attained. Though 
restricted, the view is wild and striking. 
The traveller must take care not to 
descend towards the rt., as this would 
lead him down the Val Tenji, but to 
keep well to the 1. until, after a short 
but sharp descent, he reaches the 
plateau leading to the Greina Pass, 
described in the last Rte. 

Fully 8 hrs. should be allowed by a 
moderate walker for the distance from 
Vrin to Olivone. In the Swiss Federal 
Map the name of the pass is written 
Diesrut, contrary to the usage and pro¬ 
nunciation of the natives of this part of 
Switzerland. 




298 


LEPONTINE ALPS. 


§ 

Route F. 

ILANZ TO OLIVONE, BY THE ZAVREILA 
THAL. 

The few strangers who ascend the 
S. branch of the Lugnetzthal from 
Ilanz usually follow the way to Hin- 
terrhein described in the next Rte. 
Very few have explored the more in¬ 
teresting but far more difficult passes 
leading from Zavreila, either into Val 
Blegno, or to the glaciers at the head 
of the Rheinwald valley. As to these, 
the Editor has obtained but scanty in¬ 
formation, and he can give no reliable 
estimate of distances. 

As mentioned in the last Rte., the 
village of Furth, or Uorts, lies at the 
junction of the two branches of the 
Glenner, that descend thence through 
fhe Lugnetzthal to the Vorder Rhein. 
Whichever way be taken to reach 
Furth is circuitous, and involves a con¬ 
siderable ascent and descent. The 
ordinary course is to mount from Ilanz 
to Cumbels, and descend thence to the 
Baths of Peiden, by the road described 
in the last Rte. A short and pleasant 
path over meadows then leads in 2f 
hrs. from Ilanz to Furth. The other 
way is by Seewis (2,838'), a village con¬ 
spicuous from the main road through 
the valley of the Vorder Rhein, stand¬ 
ing on the NW. slope of the Signina 
Stock, E. of the junction of the Glenner 
with the Rhine, and commanding a 
fine view of both valleys. This may 
be reached from Kiistris, by a traveller 
arriving from Reichenau by the old 
road on the rt. bank of the Rhine, or 
directly from Ilanz. A rather steep 
ascent leads from Seewis to Iiiein, where 
are seen some remains of two ancient 
castles. A deep ravine divides this 
from the next village, and a long detour 
is needed to accomplish the very short 
distance that separates it from Pitasch 
(3,481'), a village almost isolated from 
its neighbours by the profound ravines 
cut by the torrents into the sides and 
bottom of the valley. A steep path 
here descends to the Glenner, crosses it 


31 . ADULA DISTRICT. 

by a wooden bridge, and reaches the 
Frauenthor (Rte. E) by a no less steep 
ascent. The circuit would form a 
pleasant walk from Ilanz. The way 
to Furth crosses another ravine less 
difficult than the preceding one, and 
soon reaches Duvin (3,835'), a clean and 
thriving village,inhabited, like Pitasch, 
by Protestants. This stands near the 
verge of the Ditviner Tobel, the deepest 
and most precipitous of the ravines that 
scar the E. slopes of the Lugnetzthal. 
A long detour is necessary to reach the 
hamlet of Camuns (3,855'), whence the 
traveller descends to Furth (2,979'). 
There is another way from Duvin by 
what is described as ‘ a somewhat break¬ 
neck path,’ down the precipitous face 
of the mountain leading to the Baths of 
Peiden, and so to Furth. 

At that village the traveller enters 
the Valserthal, one of the most pic¬ 
turesque in this part of the Alps, too 
rarely visited by strangers. The bridle¬ 
path mounts along the rt. bank, the 
opposite slopes of the valley being 
covered with pine-forest, extending 
from hence nearly to Platz. Dark 
defiles where the track overhangs the 
roaring torrent, open places with green 
meadows, scattered hamlets, and pic¬ 
turesque chapels perched upon rocks, 
form a succession of charming pictures. 

The hamlets of Tersnaus and St. 
Martin, followed by Lungenei and the 
Chapel of Sta. Anna, are passed in 
succession. The sparse population 
speak German, and not, as usual in 
the neighbouring valleys, Romantsch. 
Above the chapel of Sta. Anna the 
grey slates that prevail throughout the 
valleys S. of the Vorder Rhein give place 
to green slate, and to white crystalline 
limestone, that predominate until we 
reach the gneiss of the central group 
of the Adula. At the chapel of St 
Nicholas a bridge leads the path to the 
1. bank ; another defile follows; and the 
traveller at last unexpectedly enters a 
level plain bright with hamlets and 
scattered chalets, while rye. potatoes, 
and flax cover the fields. This basin, 
evidently the filled-up bed of a lake, 




ROUTE F.-PLATTENSCHLUCHT. 


299 


bears the collective name Vais, often 
applied to the chief village at its S. end. 
It is much exposed to avalanches in 
winter and spring, but enjoys in sum¬ 
mer a comparatively mild and warm 
climate. Here, just beyond the hamlet 
of Camps, where the path returns to 
the rt. bank, is a warm mineral spring, 
issuing from the rock at a temperature 
of 79° Falir., which is in local repute 
for baths. The arrangements are rude, 
and the waters have not been studied 
by competent practitioners. The chief 
place in the valley is called 

St. Peter , also known as Vais am 
Platz, or simply Platz ; it stands at 
the S. end of the basin, 4,095 ft. above 
the sea, about 2| hrs. from Furth, or 
5^ hrs. from Ilanz. There is a tolerable 
country Inn, which may serve as head¬ 
quarters to a mountaineer who would 
explore the very fine scenery of the 
adjoining valleys. Peter Anton Jellier, 
who accompanied M. Coaz in the ascent 
of the Piz Valrhein, would probably be 
found a competent guide. Close to the 
village is the junction of the two main 
torrents that form the Valser-Rhein, as 
this branch of the Glenner is often 
called. The S. branch flows through 
the Peilerthal, by which lies the way 
to Hinterrhein, described in the next 
Rte. The longer valley, carrying down 
a still more considerable stream, is 
called Zavreilathal. At the village of 
St. Peter, paths from several alpine 
passes converge. On the slope of the 
mountain to SW. is the hamlet of Leiss 
or Fleiss. By that way the traveller 
may reach Vrin by the Pettnauer Jock, 
noticed in the last Rte., descending 
thence through the Val Vanescha. 
There is another more difficult pass 
from Leiss to Vrin, passing close under 
the Piz Aul, here called Piz Leiss. In 
the opposite direction is a pass to 
Thalkirch, in the Savierthal (Rte.H), 
the only moderately easy way across 
the rugged range that separates the 
two valleys. The way lies at first 
through the forest, then over pastures, 
and at last by a zigzag path up steep 
rocks to the Tomils Alp, whose chalets 


stand at 7,175 ft., on a sloping plateau 
commanding a fine view of the peaks 
of the Aduia. A much more extensive 
view is obtained from the Weissenstein 
(9,675'), lying to the N., or the Baren- 
liorn (9,619'), on the S. side of the pass. 
Both are easy of access. The pass, 
which may conveniently be called 
Tomils Pass, is 7,930 ft. in height, and 
is reached by a faintly-marked track 
which mounts at first js’E., then about 
due E. from the Tomils Alp. There 
is an easy descent on the E. side to the 
highest chalets in the Savierthal. See 
Rte. H. 

The lofty ridge dividing the head 
waters of the Valser-Rhein extends 
NW. from the Fanellaltorn (10,243'), 
one of the central peaks of the Aduia 
group. The Zavreilathal lies deep 
between this ridge and that connecting 
the Piz Scherboda with the Piz Aul. 
It is a pastoral valley, with many scat¬ 
tered chalets and some hamlets, the 
chief of which is 

Zavreila (5,840'), about hrs. from 
St. Peter, standing at the junction of 
the torrents from the two principal 
Glaciers on the N. side of the Aduia. 
The mountaineer may find rough but 
tolerable accommodation here at the 
house of Ph. Schmidt. 

[Immediately to S. opens tli eKanal- 
thal, a short glen enclosed between 
snowy peaks, leading to the Kanal 
Glacier. Waterfalls, formed by torrents 
from the upper snow-fields, fall down 
the steep walls of these wild glens. 
The huts of the Kanal Alp (6,470') 
stand in the centre of a grand alpine 
amphitheatre, and behind them the 
Kanal Glacier descends from near the 
summit of the Guferhorn (11,132') in 
an unbroken stream. That peak, the 
second in height of the Aduia Alps, 
may probably be ascended from this 
side. It is certain that the Zapport 
Alp (Rte. B) may be reached by the 
Plattenschlucht (9,314'), a pass over 
the ridge E. of the Guferhorn. Though 
looking extremely steep on the S. side, 
it is said not to be very difficult; but of 
course an experienced guide should be 




300 


LEPOXTINE ALPS. § 31 . ADULA DISTRICT. 


taken for this as well as the other high 
parses here noticed.] 

The passes from Zavreila to the Val 
Blegno lie through the W. branch of the 
Zavreilathal, the upper end of which is 
also called Lentathal. After ascending 
to W. for about 1 hi', from Zavreila, 
the valley turns sharply to S., and pre¬ 
sents a grand view of the highest peaks 
of the Adula. The Lenta Glacier 
descends in a very fine ice-fall from 
the N. side of the Piz Valrhein and 
the ridge connecting it with the Guf’er- 
horn. The lowest point in that ridge 
appears to be that marked in the Fede¬ 
ral map 2,954 m.=9,692 ft. Early in 
the summer, with plenty of snow, Mr. 
Tuckett had litile dillieulty in descend¬ 
ing thence by the centre of the Lenta 
Glacier, but laier in the season Mr. 
Freshfield thought it scarcely possible 
to reach the Lenta Puss, as it may be 
called, by the ice-fall. But a ridge of 
rocks leads to a point somewhat N. of 
the lowest depression, and with good 
guides the pass should be effected. 

After ascending a short way to the S., 
the traveller who w'ould follow the 
only certain way from Zavreila to Val 
Blegno turns aside to the W., and ascends 
tnrough a little lateral glen which 
passes on the N. side of a glacier on 
the slope of the Plattenbery (10,253'), 
and finally attains a depression in the 
ridge connecting that summit with the 
Terri range. Tnis is the 

Scaradra Pass (9,088'), very rarely 
traversed except by native chamois- 
hunters, though there are traces of a 
paved path. The descent on the W. 
side to Ghirone by the Val Luzzon is 
long and steep. The difference oflevel 
is just 5,000 ft. See Rte. D. 

The writer does not habitually call 
attention to the mistakes in other works 
that may be considered as rivals to his 
own. He is bound, however, to warn 
travellers against one that may lead 
them into serious difficulties, occurring 
in a book that contains a larger amount 
of information than most of those on 
the Swiss Alps, mingled with no small 
proportion of error. M. Joanne, in 


his Itineraire de la Suisse, has described 
under the name ‘ Col de Lenta ’ a pass 
from Zavreila to Ghirone, passing over 
the Lenta Glacier. A pass in that di¬ 
rection must nearly coincide with the 
‘ Bresciana Pass’ of Mr. Moore (Rte. B), 
and the descent would lie either through 
Val Carassina , which opens into \ ui 
Blegno at Olivone, or through Val 
Suja, opening at Dangio several miles 
below that village. The Plattenbciy 
Pass (9,088'), just equal in height to 
the Scaradra, is a passage known to 
the native hunters, leading to Olivone, 
by the S. side of the Plattenberg, and 
through Val Carassina. Further in¬ 
formation as to these passes is much 
desired. 


Route G. 

ILANZ TO HINTERRHEIN BY THE 
VALSERBERG. 

5| hrs. to St. Peter—5 hrs. thence to Hinter- 
rhein. Path passable for horses. 

The traveller who does not desire to 
attempt the laborious and somewhat 
| difficult route from the Valserthal to 
! the Rheinwald, by Zavreila and the 
Kanal Glacier, may follow another 
course through fine scenery, far easier, 
but less interesting and exciting. By 
this w ay a steady walker may easily 
reach Hinterrhein or Spliigen in one 
day from Ilanz, but an early start is 
advisable. A guide is not necessary 
in fine weather. 

Having reached St. Peter by the 
course described in last Rte., the tra¬ 
veller follows the S. branch of the 
valley, or Peilerthal. This lies between 
the range of the Fanellahorn (10,243') 
to the W. and the Bdrenhorn (9,619') 
to the E. The ordinary track soon 
leaves the main stream of the Peiler¬ 
thal, which descends from SSW. and 





ROUTE H.—SAVIERTHAL. 


301 


mounts about due S. through a lateral 
glen called Vallatsch. The highest 
pastures, deservedly named Schoumat- 
ten Alp, lead to the last ascent. The 
summit of the Valserberg is a broad 
trough-like passage between two low 
eminences in the range forming the N. 
barrier of the Rheinwald. The way 
is marked with poles, so that except in 
bad weather it is not easy to go astray. 
Fully Si hrs. are required for the as¬ 
cent from S. Peter to the summit, which 
is 8,225 ft. in height. Looking back¬ 
wards there is a fine view to the N. 
extending to the Todi chain, while the 
peaks on the S. side of the Rheinwald 
are also striking objects. The view 
on that side is better seen after de¬ 
scending the first and rather steep slope 
to the highest chalets of Pianetsch 
(7,120'). The direct way to Hinter- 
rhein is well traced, and that village 
is reached in 1^ hr. from the top. 
Another path to the 1., passing above 
a pine forest that clothes a projecting 
spur of the mountain, and then de¬ 
scending along the base of a line of 
cliffs, enables the traveller who prefers 
the good quarters at Spliigen to the 
poor Inn at Hinterrhein (Rte. A) to 
reach Nufenen on the high road to 
Spliigen, which is thus not more than 
2^ hrs. distant in descending from the 
summit of the pass. 

Instead of following the beaten track, 
there is a more interesting, and not 
longer, way by the main branch of the 
Peilerthal, mounting to the Fanella 
Alp, which lies immediately below the 
fine Fanella Glacier. At the head of 
the valley is a pass lying farther east, 
and a f ew ft. lower than the Valserberg 
—8,146 ft. There is no difficulty in 
descending from the summit to Hinter¬ 
rhein by the Kirchalp, but it would be 
prudent to engage a boy to show the 
way from the highest huts on the one 
6ide to those on the other. 


Route H. 

REICHENAU TO SFLtlGEN, BY SAVIEN 
AND THE LOCHLIBERG PASS. 

Hrs.’ Eng. 
walking miles 
2 6 

3 8 

1 3 

2 !i 

4 9 

12 31 

Between the valley of the Glenner, 
whose several branches have been de¬ 
scribed in the preceding Rtes., and the 
high road traversing the Via Mala de¬ 
scribed in Rte. A, descends from S. to 
N. an unfrequented valley, known in 
this district for the richness of its pas¬ 
tures and the fine timber of its forests. 
This is commonly called Savien, but 
also Savierthal. It is rarely traversed 
by strangers, but if it were more gene¬ 
rally known the scenery would certainly 
attract many visitors. The population 
is exclusively German and Protestant. 
To those who have already seen the 
Via Mala this offers a new way be¬ 
tween Reichenau and Spliigen abound¬ 
ing in objects of interest, or it may 
well be taken in a tour of two or three 
days from Ilanz to Reichenau, sleeping 
one night at St. Peter in the Valserthal 
(Rte. F), crossing the pass by the 
Tomils Alp noticed in that Rte., and 
then descending the Savierthal to Ver- 
sam and Reichenau. Versam, standing 
at the junction of this valley with the 
Vorderrheinthal, is but 2^ m. farther 
from Ilanz than from Reichenau, and 
may be reached from either place by 
char, so that there is nothing to pre¬ 
vent an active walker from reaching 
Spliigen in one day; but it is a better 
plan to sleep at Platz, and so gain time 
on the following day to combine the 
ascent of the Barenhorn with the pass 
of the Ldchliberg. A horse may be 
taken as far as the head of the valley, 
but it would not be advisable to attempt 
to take one over the Lochliberg. 

Whether starting from Reichenau 
or Ilanz, the traveller must follow the 


V ersam 
Neukirch 
Savien Platz 
Thalkirch . 
Spliigen 





302 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 31 . ADULA DISTRICT. 


old road between those places by the 
rt. bank of the Rhine, noticed in § 27, 
Rte C. After crossing the Rhine at 
Reichenau, the high road to Thusis 
(llte. A) is followed as far as Bonaduz. 
The wav there turns to the rt. and 
follows the base of the mountains at 
some distance from the Vorder Rhein. 
After traversing a low col (3,150') in 
the hills that extend from the base of 
the Heinzenberg, the road descends 
rapidly to a fine bridge thrown across 
the Rabiusa as it issues from the Savier- 
thal into the main valley. This tor¬ 
rent, also called Savier-Rhein, which 
derives its name from the violence of 
its current, has cut for itself a remark¬ 
able cleft through the slate rocks. 
Under the name Versamer Tobel this 
deft extends a considerable distance 
into the Savierthal. At the point 
where it is traversed by the road it is 
more than 200 ft. deep, and the bridge 
has nearly the same span. It is worth 
while to turn aside in order to get a 
better view' of the chasm. On the W. 
side the road winds up a rather steep 
ascent in order to reach Versam, the 
village standing at the mouth of the 
valley, whence diverges the only path 
by which it can be entered. Refresh¬ 
ment may be had here at a rough 
country Inn. 

Unlike the Lugnetzthal, which, 
besides dividing into several main 
branches, receives many smaller tor¬ 
rents through lateral glens, the Savier¬ 
thal is, especially in its lower part, 
little but a deep trench between the 
high mountains on either side. The 
E. slope is so steep and rocky, that for 
many miles there is no house nor trace 
of path on that side. Near the open¬ 
ing of the valley, a torrent issuing from 
a short lateral glen descending from 
the Signina Stock joins the Rabiusa 
some way beyond the hamlet of Acla. 
It is probable that the forked summit 
of the Signina Stock (9,428'), bearing 
a small glacier between its two peaks, 
may be reached that way. At a con¬ 
siderable height above the main path 
on the rt. is the hamlet of Tenna 


(5,427’). The traveller who does not 
intend attempting the ascent from that 
place must be careful not to follow the 
path which mounts thither from Acla, 
or he will have to make a long descent 
to rejoin the main route farther up the 
valley. The track from Acla (4,101') 
lies along a rocky wooded slope. On 
the opposite side of the Rabiusa rises 
a very rugged and steep range, averag¬ 
ing about 7,000 ft. in height. This 
is the Heinzenberg, which on the oppo¬ 
site side inclines very gently towards 
the Domleschgerthal, feeding on its 
fertile slopes many herds, and .support¬ 
ing a comparatively large population. 
After ascending for nearly 3 hrs. 
through the wild and almost uninha¬ 
bited ravine of the Versamer Tobel, 
the traveller reaches a point where 
the valley opens out, and is enlivened 
by numerous scattered houses, with 
fields, and gardens, and bright green 
pastures. The beauty of the scene is 
enhanced by the charm of contrast. 

The first village is called fienkirch, 
made up of scattered clusters of houses. 
A steep path here crosses the ridge ol 
the Heinzenberg to Flerden and Thusis. 
The main track keeps along the 1. bank 
of the Rabiusa, and in 1 hr. more 
reaches 

Snvien Platz , the principal village 
of the valley, 4,255 ft. above the sea. 
Rough but tolerable quarters are found 
here at the Post-office. The name 
Platz is very commonly given in the 
Grisons valleys to the chief village. 
In the same valley no other designation 
is requisite; but inasmuch as there are 
very many places called by the same 
name, it is necessary elsewhere to add 
a second distinctive name. Close to 
the Church is the junction of the Car- 
nnsa torrent descending from the W. 
side of the Piz Beverin. By the steep 
slope on the rt. bank of the Carnusa, a 
zigzag path mounts about due E. from 
Platz to the Stege Pass (6,057') By this 
very agreeable way Thusis is reached 
in 4 hrs. The path lies on the N. side 
and above the gorge of the Nolla (Rte. 
A). It is worth while for a traveller 




303 


§ 32 . LOCARNO DISTRICT. 


visiting the Savien valley to mount 
high enough on the way to the Stege 
to get a good view of the Piz Beverin, 
and of a very fine waterfall near the 
path. It is a very agreeable walk of 
2 hrs. from Platz to 
Thalkirch (5,545'), the highest village 
of Savien, possessing a very ancient 
church. Here trees become scarce, and 
alpine pastures cover the slopes. The 
geologist will notice blocks of a green 
quartzose schist, mingled with others 
containing diorite, the origin of which 
has not yet been ascertained. At 1 hr. 
above Thalkirch are the chalets of Cost- 
ndtsch (5,909'). The scenery of the 
head of the valley, encircled by high 
peaks, is bold and striking. To the E. 
are the Bruschyhorn (10,020'), Gelbhorn 
(9,958'), and Grauhorn (9,849'); to the 
S. is a high ridge culminating in the 
Lochtibery (9,990'), rising E. of the pass 
to Spliigen; while to the W. are the 
Barenhorn and Weissenstein, with the 
pass between them leading to St. Peter 
referred to in Rte. F. Above the last 
chalets the amphitheatre of rocks clos¬ 
ing the head of the valley rises with 
forbidding steepness, and the appear¬ 
ance of the pass from this side has 
given rise to an unfounded impression 
that it is difficult and even dangerous. 
A small glacier rests on the upper 
ledges of the dark grey slate that forms 
the base of the mountain range, and 
the torrent escaping from it falls over 
the verge of the precipice in a remark¬ 
able waterfall. In early summer, when 
the torrent is fed by the melting snows, 
the height of the fall is said to be over 
900 feet, and the scene recalls, though 
on a smaller scale, the famous cirque 
de Gavarnie. Above the little glacier 
are seen some singular shattered pin¬ 
nacles of dolomite. The upper part of 
the Lochliberg and some of the neigh¬ 
bouring summits are formed of pure 
.imestone and dolomite. The latter is 
weathered into those singular forms 
that always attract the attention of 
travellers. The ascent to the Ldchbberg 
Pa^s, though steep, is not difficult. 
The track lies just below the rocks 


whence the waterfall descends, and 
1^- hr. suffices to reach the summit 
(8,169') from the last chalets. The 
pass is oftener called Savierberg on 
the N. side, but is known at Spliigen 
by the name here adopted. There is no 
difficulty in reaching the E. summit of 
the Barenhorn ^9,232'), and the detour 
is recommended to those who leave 
themselves time for the purpose. It is 
necessary to return thence to the sum¬ 
mit of the pass. The way to Spliigen 
(Rte. A) lies at first a little S. of E., 
finally about SE.. through a pretty glen 
by which the traveller in 1 ^ hr. reaches 
that village. In ascending from Splii¬ 
gen, nearly 2j hrs. may be allowed to 
reach the summit, and little more than 
1 j hr. for the descent to Thalkirch. 


SECTION 32. 

LOCARNO DISTRICT. 

In the three preceding Sections the 
main chain of the Lepontine Alps 
between the Simplon and Bernardino 
Passes has been described. Within 
those limits the watershed between the 
Po and the Rhone or Rhine describes 
a curve convex to the N. A moun¬ 
tain region of considerable extent lies 
within the space partially enclosed by 
this part of the main chain. These 
southern ranges are divided into two 
masses by a profound depression, the 
greater part of which is occupied by 
the Lake Maggiore. To the W. and 
NW. of the lake is the remarkable 
group of mountains which are to be 
described in the present Section. Their 
limits are clearly defined by the Yal 
Leventina and Yal Bedretto to NE., 
by the valley of the Tessin and Lago 
Maggiore to SE., by the course of the 
Tosa between the lake and Domo 
d'Ossola to SW.. and to NW. by the 






304 


LEPONTINE ALPS. 


§ 32. LOCARNO DISTRICT. 


valley of the same river from Domo 
nearly to its source in the Val For- 
mazza. The head of that valley is 
connected with the Val Bedretto by 
the low Pass of S. Giacomo, described 
in § 29, Rte. B, which may be held to 
complete the limitation of the group of 
mountains here described. These are 
often called Tessin Alps; but as that 
term should include the ranges E. of 
the Val Leventina, while it does not 
include the southern portion of the 
group, lying altogether on Italian terri¬ 
tory, it has not been adopted here. 

Nearly the whole of this district lies 
within the area marked as crystalline 
rocks in the geological map, and to the 
composition of the rocks it owes the 
peculiar character of its scenery. One 
singularity in these mountains that 
must in the first instance strike the 
physical geographer, is the fact that 
very nearly the entire drainage of a 
district, measuring from 1,000 to 1,200 
square miles, is poured down through 
a number of different valleys so as to 
converge very nearly in a single point 
close to the town of Locarno, which is 
at once the most important in the dis¬ 
trict, and that which offers the best 
head-quarters to a stranger visiting it. 
On these grounds it seems convenient 
to distinguish the region described in 
the present Section as the Locarno 
District. 

Few portions of the Alps have been 
treated by travellers with such complete 
and undeserved neglect as that here to 
be described, and the traveller who 
consults books will find none but the 
scantiest information. The writer can 
add somewhat, though not very much, 
from his personal knowledge; but he 
will have conferred a benefit on those 
who love to explore the neglected dis¬ 
tricts of the Alps by calling their 
attention to valleys which include much 
that is beautiful, and some scenes rising 
to grandeur ; although the heights of 
the mountains do not, with two or three 
exceptions, exceed 10,000 ft. 

It will be convenient to commence 
the present Section with the description 


of the remarkable lake that forms its 
SE. boundary. 


Route A. 

BELLINZONA TO ARONA, OR SESTO 
CALENDE, BY THE LAGO MAGGIORE. 

Carriage-road to Locarno—12 m_or to Maga- 

dino—9J m. Steamer on the lake 2 or 3 timet 
each way daily. 

Fuom the form of the mountains on 
either side, and the appearance of the 
marshy plain extending about 9 m. 
from the Lago Maggiore to Bellinzona, 
it is apparent that the lake, at no very 
distant date, must have approached 
very near to that town, and that the 
upper end of the lake-basin has been 
filled up by the detritus borne dow r n by 
the Ticino, aided by the Verzasca and 
some other smaller streams. 

Travellers proceeding directly from 
Bellinzona to the lower part of the 
lake usually take the post-road by the 
1. bank of the Ticino to Magadino; 
but the way by Locarno is more in¬ 
teresting, and that town may well 
detain the stranger for a day or two. 
There are post carriages twice a day 
between Bellinzona and each of those 
plac -s. The road to Magadino is for 
about 5 m. the same that leads over the 
Monte Cenere to Lugano and Como 
(§ 33, Rte. Cl. When that road begins 
to ascend the slope of the Monte Cenere, 
the way to Magadino keeps to the rt., 
traversing the swampy and lever- 
stricken plain along which the Ticino 
rolls its turbid waters. 

Magadino (Inn: Belvedere,improved, 
very fair accommodation) seems to be 
tolerably clear of malarious influence, 
as it lies on a narrow strip of ground 
between the foot of the mountains and 
the lake, and is separated by the broad 
bed of the Ticino from the marshes 
that extend beyond the opposite bank. 
This is the terminus of the lake- 
steamers which call at Locarno, here 
full in sight and 3 m. distant, both in 
coming and going. The passage takes 




ROUTE A.-LOCARNO. 


305 


20 min. Like every other village on 
the lake, Magadino commands fine 
views, but it is not a place offering 
many inducements to strangers. 

The road from Bellinzona to Locarno 
crosses the Ticino by a fine stone 
bridge, and is then carried along the 
foot of the Monte Carasso (5,649'), that 
being the name of the mountain rising 
on the N. side of the valley, and also of 
a village at its foot traversed by the 
road. On passing the gorge of the 
Sementina, there is a view of a pretty 
waterfall. That narrow gorge, the 
scene of many popular superstitious 
tales, is sometimes visited by strangers 
for its wild scenery. Amidst luxuriant 
vegetation, fine views of the surround¬ 
ing mountains, and glimpses of the lake, 
the very beautiful road, after crossing 
the Verzasca, issuing from a valley of 
the same name (Rte. B), reaches 

Locarno (Inns : Corona, very fair 
accommodation; Albergo Svizzero, 
not bad, and very reasonable; Gallo; 
Aquila). The town lies close to the 
influx of the Melezzu, bearing down the 
united torrents from Val Maggia, Val 
Osernone, and Val Centovalli. This 
ample stream, little if at all inferior in 
volume to the Ticino, has formed an 
extensive delta, which projects far into 
the lake, and threatens at some future 
time to make Locarno inaccessible to 
the lake-sreamers. This low tract of 
land, adding its influence to that of the 
not distant marshes of the Ticino, is 
said to make the neighbourhood un¬ 
healthy, but the writer has not heard 
any instance of strangers being un¬ 
favourably affected by the climate. 

Locarno divides with Lugano and 
Bellinzona the rank of Capital of 
Tessin, but it is a place of much less 
traffic than those towns. The roof of 
the principal church, overcharged by 
the extraordinary quantity of snow that 
fell here in January, 1863, suddenly 
gave way at a time when some religious 
ceremony was proceeding. More than 
forty lives were lost, and a much larger 
number seriously injured. The position 
of the town is extremely beautiful, the 

PART II. : 


neighbourhood affords many agreeable 
excursions, and is especially interest¬ 
ing to the naturalist. The point most 
frequently visited is the convent and 
sanctuary of La Madonna del Sasso, 
standing on a steep rock immediately 
over the town. The picturesqueness 
of the site, and the exquisite views 
which it commands, have made this a 
favourite resort of artists. On the walls 
of rock along which the path is carried 
the botanist may find many rare mosses 
and hepaticce. Besides these, he will 
notice Cistus salvifolius and other 
southern species of flowering plants. 
The view over the lake and the valley 
of the Melezza is even finer from 
an old church about ^ m. beyond the 
convent. 

A still more delightful walk, which 
cannot be too much recommended to 
the botanist and the lover of scenery, 
is that to JRonco d'Ascona. Rather more 
than a mile from Locarno is a long stone 
bridge over the Melezza, partially 
destroyed some years ago by an inun¬ 
dation of that river, and imperfectly 
repaired. Following the road towards 
Ascona for a short distance, the travel¬ 
ler should take a path to the rt. through 
fields, and then mount the hill-side till 
he reaches a little dell, traversed by a 
rivulet that descends from a small 
boggy plain overgrow n by marsh plants. 
Amongst these are found Rhynchospora 
fusca and R. alba , Car ex punctata, and 
other rare species. At the farther end 
of this hollow the path traverses a sort 
of col between the hills where, beneath 
some pinnacles of rock, stands a mill 
called Mulino dei Siseri, and a few 
steps farther he suddenly gains a most 
beautiful view over the lake, which lies 
650 ft. below. An excellent path is 
now carried nearly at a level along the 
steep slope of the mountain, and after 
a trifling descent leads to the charm¬ 
ingly-situated hamlet of Ronco. On 
the way, the botanist will observe 
Asplertiurn Halleri growing in the clefts 
of rocks formed of quartzose grit. The 
presence on siliceous rocks of plants 
usually confined to limestone is a fact 




306 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 

of frequent occurrence in this district. 
From Ronco the traveller may descend 
by a steep path to the shore of the lake, 
and return to Locarno by a new road 
to Ascona, a large village on the S. side 
of the delta of the Melezza. This 
road is to be extended beyond the 
Swiss frontier to Canobbio. 

Those who do not intend to visit the 
Val Maggia should at least go as far as 
the Ponte Brolla, at the opening of that 
valley. This is reached in a carriage 
by a good road passing through charm¬ 
ing scenery : 2 hrs. suffice to go and 
return. See Rte. C. 

The traveller bound for the lower 
end of the Lago Maggiore will take the 
steamer either at Locarno or Magadino. 
He will take care to obtain the latest 
information as to the hours of starting, 
as changes occur rather frequently. 
From 5 to 6 hrs. are employed in the 
voyage to Arona. Some, but not all, 
of the steamers go on to Sesto Calende, 
reached in about | hr. from Arona. 

The Lago Maggiore is about 42 m. 
long, with a breadth which varies from 
2 to 3 m., except at the bay opening 
westward between Pallanza and Stresa, 
where this exceeds 6 m. It exceeds 
all the other Italian lakes in length, 
but in the extent of surface it falls con¬ 
siderably below the Lake of Garda. 
Its mean height above the sea level is 
646 ft. ; but as its depth greatly exceeds 
that measurement, the bed is almost 
everywhere considerably below the 
sea-level, and in one part soundings 
have reached 2,615 ft. or no less than 
1,969 ft. below the sea. Its form is very 
sinuous, so that there are few points 
from which any considerable part of 
its surface can be seen at a single 
glance. If this lessens the effect of the 
apparent size, it increases the variety 
of its scenery, and produces those con¬ 
trasts for which it is renowned. While 
the upper end is completely alpine in 
character, the middle region lies be¬ 
tween hills of gentler form, and the 
lower end advances to the verge of the 
plain of Lombardy. Opinions are di¬ 
vided as to the rival attractions of this 


2. LOCARNO DISTRICT. 

and the Lakes of Como and Garda. 
The decision must depend on indivi¬ 
dual taste ; but apart from useless com¬ 
parisons, the charms of this lake will 
afford abundant enjoyment to the lover 
of nature. After rounding the flat 
promontory formed by the detritus of 
the Melezza, the steamer keeps a SW. 
course, leaving at some distance to the 
rt. Ascona and Ronco, both mentioned 
above. On the steep slopes of the 
opposite shore some small hamlets are 
seen, but there is no considerable 
village. Brissago, where the steamers 
touch, is the last Swiss village on the 
rt. or NW. shore. It lies at the foot 
of the highest mountain that rises 
above the lake. This is the Mte. 
Ghiridone (7,165'), also called Mte. 
Limidario , because it forms the fron¬ 
tier between the Swiss Canton Tessin 
and the Italian province of Novara. 
The boundary runs down to the lake, 
which it touches a little S. of Bris¬ 
sago, and is then carried over the 
mountains on the opposite or SE. 
shore. Here the channel of the lake 
turns due S., and at the same time is 
narrowed to less than half its previous 
width. About 4 m. S. of Brissago on 
the W. shore is 

Canobbio (Inn: Bissone, a fair coun¬ 
try inn), one of the largest and most 
thriving villages on the lake, with a 
church designed by Bramante, and 
containing frescoes by Gaudenzio Fer¬ 
rari. It stands at the opening of the 
Val Canobbina(Rte. I). Nearathandis 
a large new hydropathic establishment. 
A gorge called Orrido di Canobbio, not 
far from the opening of the valley, is 
said to deserve a visit. Marked differ¬ 
ences of climate along the shores of the 
lake depend upon aspect and the ex¬ 
posure to certain winds. Near Canob¬ 
bio, with an easterly aspect, and no pro¬ 
tection aeainst the N. wind, Alpine 
plants, such as Primula viscosa , Sa.n- 
fraga cotyledon and S. aizoon , Maian- 
themum bifolium, &c., come down nearly 
to the water’s edge; while at the next 
village of Cannero , lying on the S. 
tide of a rocky promontory, the olive, 




ROUTE A. 


LAGO MAGGIORE. 


307 


pomegranate, and lemon trees ripen 
their fruit. In the neighbourhood of 
this last named village are several 
villas, one of which was the retreat of 
Massimo d’Azeglio, the statesman, 
writer, and artist, whose name is so in¬ 
timately connected with the recent 
history of Italy. Close at hand are 
two rocky islets which served in the fif¬ 
teenth century as strongholds of afamily 
of lake pirates and brigands named 
Mazzarda. Before reaching Cannero 
the steamer has traversed the narrowest 
part of the lake, where it little exceeds 
1 m. in width. On the E. shore are 
two villages—Maccagno Superioreand 
Maccagno Inferiore—lying at the open¬ 
ing of a short gien called Val Vedusca. 
On the same side, about 3 m. farther 
S., is 

Luitto (Inns : a large new Hotel— 
H. Simplon ?—Aib. della Beccaccia, 
tolerable, bears marks of bullets dis¬ 
charged during a skirmish when it was 
occupied by Garibaldi), a large village 
with a palazzo of the Crivelli family. 
One of the most frequented roads from 
Lugano (§ 33. lite. Glhere reaches the 
lake, and many passengers usually 
land and embark at this station. The 
lake attains its greatest ’w idth between 
Luino and Oyyebbio on the W. bank. 
For several miles the course is SW., 
till, after rounding the base of a coni¬ 
cal mountain called Susso del Ferro 
(3,556'), which must command a noble 
view, the steamer turns into a little 
bay in which lies 

Laveno (Inns: Posta, good ; Alb. del 
Moro), lying exactly opposite to the 
large bay between Pallanza and Stresa, 
wherein lie the Borromean Islands. 
The views gained from hence over the 
finest part of the lake are very beauti¬ 
ful, and from many points the peaks of 
Monte Rosa are seen behind the nearer 
ranges. There are here some strong 
forts erected by the Austrians. The 
neighbourhood is extremelypicturesque, 
and deserves more notice than it com¬ 
monly receives. There is a road to 
Lugano through the Yal Cuvio, and 
another equally beautiful to Varese by 


Gavirate (§ 33, Rte. I). On leaving 
Laveno the steamer is steered WNW., 
seemingly quite out of her course, to 
call at 

Intra (Inns: Vitello d’Oro ; Leone 
d’Oro, indifferent and dear), a large 
manufacturing village, supplied with 
water-power by the stream issuing from 
the Yal Intragna (Rte. K). It is con¬ 
nected with the high road of the Sim¬ 
plon, by a new line of road passing 
through 

Pallanza (Inns : Grand H. de Pal¬ 
lanza, with a large garden, first-rate ; 
Universo, good, and reasonable ; with 
several others). This ancient town is 
scarcely a mile from Intra by land, but 
double that distance by water, being on 
the opposite side of a rocky promon¬ 
tory that marks the entrance of the bay 
extending westward to Fariolo. There 
are several remains here of the Roman 
period, including some sculpture with 
an inscription built into the wall of the 
church of San Stefano. A large new 
model prison is the most conspicuous 
building. Close to the town is a 
large nursery garden, said to be one 
of the best in Italy. Pallanza is in 
many ways one of the most agreeable 
stopping-places on the lake. The 
Borromean Islands may be visited 
as well as from Baveno ; a boat with 
two men costs 4 fr. to go and re¬ 
turn. To the mountaineer it offers 
interesting excursions through the Yal 
Intrasca (Rte.K), whose rugged peaks 
are the boldest in form of those rising 
near to the lake. There is a good new 
road traversed by omnibus that passes 
along the lake shore, and joins the high 
road from Arona to Domo d’Ossoia 
between Fariolo and Gravellona. 

The Borromean Islands, and the 
places on the W. shore of the lake 
between Fariolo and Arona, lie with¬ 
out the limits of the present section. 
They are described in § 21, Rte. A. 

The steamers call at Baveno, the 
Isola Bella, Stresa, Belgirate, and Lesa 
- sometimes also at Fariolo and at 
Meina, before reaching 

Arona (Inns: Italia; Posta; both 





308 LEPONTINE ALPS. § 32 . 

pretty good but not cheap), the chief 
station for the lake-steamers. The land¬ 
ing-place is close to the railway station. 
Four trains run daily in little more 
than 1 hour between Arona and 
Novara, whence, changing carriages, 
they may proceed to Alessandria, 
Genoa, or Turin. The line of railway 
connecting Arona directly with Milan 
is now open, and three trains run daily 
in 2^- hrs. Since the opening of the 
rly. the steamers no longer proceed to 
Sesto Calende (Inn : Posta, good and 
reasonable) at the extreme southern 
end of the lake. At Gallarat.e, where 
a branch rly. leads to Varese (§ 33, 
Rte. I), the traveller enters the great 
plain of Lombardy that extends un¬ 
broken to the Apennine and the 
Adriatic. 


Route B. 

LOCARNO TO FAIDO, BY VAL VERZASCA. 

The Val Verzasca is a narrow glen 
lying between mountains formed of 
crystalline rock, whose course is pretty 
nearly parallel to the Valley of the 
Ticino, with which river its torrent is 
united at the upper end of the Lago 
Maggiore, where they enter the lake 
nearly at the same point. The people 
of this valley have long borne a bad 
reputation, probably in some degree 
exaggerated; but it seems that even at 
the present day the use of the knife is 
the too common mode of settling dis¬ 
putes, and cases of homicide, not to 
say assassination, are far from uncom¬ 
mon. It does not appear, however, that 
such crimes arise from mean motives; 
no instances have been cited in which 
strangers have suffered violence, and 
there is no reason why the valley 
should not receive some share of the 
notice of travellers, by whom it is 
scarcely ever visited. The opening of 
the valley is at Gordula, about 3 m. from 
Locarno on the road to Belliuzona. A 


LOCARNO DISTRICT. 

very steep path, partly cut into the 
rock, leads along the 1. bank through 
the gorge by which the Verzasca tor¬ 
rent descends towards the Lago Mag¬ 
giore. Fully 4 hrs. from Locarno are 
required to reach Lavertezzo, the chief 
village, about 1,800 ft. above the sea. 
Here the valley is divided into two 
branches. The N. branch, containing 
no village, but merely mountain pas¬ 
tures, is formed by the union of three 
glens, each leading to the ridge divid¬ 
ing Val Verzasca iroin Val Leventina. 
By each of these it is practicable to 
reach that valley; but the ridges to be 
traversed are high and rough, and there 
is no well-traced path. 

About if hr. above Lavertezzo, in 
the main or NVV. branch of the valley, 
is the junction of the Val d'Osola w r ith 
the Upper Val Verzasca. In the fork 
betwi en the two streams stands Brione 
(2,497'). From that village a path 
mounts through the Val d’Osola to a 
pass (nearly 8,000 1't. in height) lying 
on the S. side of the Mte. Zucche.ro 
(8,980'), and leading to the Val Laviz- 
zara (Rte. C), into which the track 
descends nearly 1 hr. above Bignasco. 
The traveller keeping through the main 
valley of the Verzasca need not cross 
that torrent to Brione, but must pass to 
the rt. bank, h hr. higher up. In about 
2 hrs. he reaches Sonogno , the highest 
village, 2,982 ft. above the sea. Here 
the Verzasca is formed by the union of 
the torrents issuing from two wild and 
rugged glens. That opening due W. 
is the Val Redorda, leading by the 
Passu di Redorda (7,014') to Prato, in 
Val Lavizzara. The pass lies between 
the Mte. Zucchero and the Corona di 
Redorda (9,214'). 

The way from Sonogno to Faido lies 
through the northernmost of the two 
glens meeting at that place, called Val 
C hione. After follow'ing the torrent 
for more than 1 hr., the track mounts 
by zigzags towards the N., to a pass 
lying between the Cima Bianca (8,56b') 
to the E., and a nameless summit 
(8,704') to the W. After passing a 
small lake (5,853'), the track turns to 



ROUTE C. —VAL MAGGIA. 


the rt. and descends about due E. to 
Chironico, on the rt. bank of the Ticino, 
about 2 hrs. below Faido. 

The head of the Yal Cabione lies 
amid some very, very wild mountain 
scenery. There is a lake, Lago Barone, 
at the unusual height of 8,813 ft. 

Information as to this valley and the 
passes leading to it is much desired. 


Route C. 


LOCARNO TO AIROLO, BY THE VAL 
LAVIZZARA. 


Maggia 

Hrs.’ 

walking 

2- 

• “4 

Eng. 

miles 

9 

Cevio . 

• 2* 

7k 

Bignasco 

3 

• 4 


Peccia . . 

• H 

7 

Fusio . 

2 

5 

Airolo (by Narret) 

7 

17 


17 

47* 


The greatest of the vnlleys that con¬ 
verge near to Locarno is the Val Alag- 
gia. This is one of the deepest valleys 
of the Southern Alps, and is drained by 
a stream that, after uniting the torrents 
from many tributary valleys, soon ac¬ 
quires the proportions of a river. Each 
of the four branches of the main valley 
is connected by one or more passes 
with either of the valleys that enclose 
the entire group of mountains described 
in this section—the Yal Leventina to 
the N. and E,,or the valley ot the losa 
to the W. All the passes noticed in 
the present and the following Rtes. 
lead through very fine scenery, and 
deserve to be drawn from the neglect 
in which they have been left by alpine 
tourists. As there is a good road to 


309 

Bignasco, which has been continued 
nearly to Peccia, the passes here de¬ 
scribed to Airolo or Faido might pos¬ 
sibly be accomplished in one day from 
Locarno, by starting very early in a 
light carriage; but as there are fail 
Inns at Cevio and Bignasco, it is a 
much better plan to sleep at either of 
those places. There is a post-carriage 
daily from Locarno to Bignasco, starting 
(in 1863) at 6.30 a. m., and returning 
from Bignasco at 3 p. m. 

The river flowing into the Lago 
Maggiore near Locarno, formed by the 
union of the Maggia, the Isorno, and 
the Melezza, takes its name from the 
last-named stream, though far less con¬ 
siderable than the Maggia. A good 
road is carried along the N. side of 
the valley, at some distance from the 
Melezza, for about 2^ m., till it reaches 
the point where the Maggia issues from 
its parent valley by a strait where it 
has cut its way through huge whitish 
masses of gneiss rock. The bridge 
over which the road to the Val Onser- 
none crosses the Maggia is called Ponte 
Brolla ; it stands only 820 ft. above the 
sea, or 174 ft. above the Lago Maggiore. 
This well deserves a visit, and the tra¬ 
veller who comes hither from Locarno 
should mount for ^ m. along the 1. bank 
of the stream, which rages furiously in 
the narrow channel that it has worked 
for itself in the rock. 

The road to Cevio does not cross the 
Ponte Brolla, but mounts along the E. 
bank. After about 1 m. the lower 
reach of the Val Maggia opens out to 
the NW. The slopes above the 1. bank 
are populous and fertile, while those 
on the opposite bank are steep and 
rocky. Between them is a flat space, 
varying from i m. to more than 1 m. 
in breadth, reduced to a condition of 
utter barrenness by the inundations of 
the Maggia, which constantly changes 
its course, and has covered the bed of 
the valley with vast masses of gravel 
brought down from the surrounding 
mountain ranges. The chief village in 
this part of the valley is Maggia (1,038'), 
about 9 m. from Locarno. Fine water- 








310 


LEPONTINE ALPS. 


§ 32 . LOCARNO DISTRICT. 


falls abound in all the valleys of this 
district, and but few can receive special 
notice. Among the latter must be 
counted the beautiful fall of Soladino, 
on the rt. side of the valley, opposite 
Sotneo (1,211'), about half-way between 
Maggia and Cevio. This produces so 
fine an effect when seen from the road, 
at more than | m. distance, that it must 
deserve a nearer visit. This may be 
effected by crossing the bridge at Cevio. 
Throughout this valley the traveller 
will be struck with the many uses to 
which stone is applied. The gneiss, 
which is the prevailing rock, is very 
easily split, and is thus rendered avail¬ 
able in many ways. The vines, which 
are trained in the Italian fashion on 
trellises, are supported by stone posts 
from 1 0 to 12 ft in length. 

Close to the junction of the Havana 
(Rte. E) with the Maggia is Cevio, the 
principal place in Val Maggia, with a 
lair country Inn. The position is very 
picturesque. The lower slopes are 
planted with chestnut, above which are 
seen larches and pines; while the 
rugged summits of the surrounding 
mountains rise in opposite directions, 
enclosing the rich basin of the valley. 
The opening of the Yal di Campo to 
the W. is very narrow. On the S. side 
of the Rovana, near the junction, in a 
shady spot under steep walls of rock, 
are a range of wine cellars, with stone 
seats and tables opposite to them. Such 
places are commonly resorted to in this 
canton for drinking-parties, whose too 
abundant potations usually end in 
quarrels, not rarely in bloodshed. 

A pretty road leads along the rt. 
bank of the Maggia from Cevio to Bi- 
ynasco. This is a charmingly-situated 
village, 1,424 ft. above the sea, in the 
fork of the valley between the main 
torrent of the Maggia, issuing from 
Yal Lavizzara, and the iBavaria torrent 
draining the valley that bears its name 
(Rte D). There is a large Inn in the 
middle of the village, tolerably good 
and dear; but tourists going into Val 
Bavona (see Rte. D) may find it ex¬ 
pedient to stop at a smaller house with¬ 


out a sign, kept by Da Ponte, close to 
the bridge over the Bavona at the 
entrance to the village. Here the writer 
found a tolerable supper, a clean bed, 
much civility, and extremely moderate 
charges. The Maggia descends SSW, 
from Peccia to Bignasco through a very 
picturesque valley, in some parts nar¬ 
rowed to a defile. There is a good road 
mounting from Bignasco by the rt 
bank, but it was much injured by 
storms in Sept. 1863, which brought 
down huge blocks of stone and masses 
of debris. In one place it was impos¬ 
sible to say whether a bridge had been 
carried away, or merely buried under 
a pile of rocks that lay across the road. 
The ascent is moderately steep, so that 
little time would be gained by taking 
a vehicle, and the beautiful scenery is 
better enjoyed on foot. A fine glen 
opens on the rt., about 1 hr. above Bi¬ 
gnasco, through which lies a path to 
Val Verzasca (Rte. B). The opening 
of the Vul di Prato is on the same side, 
opposite the hamlet of Broglio (2,388'). 
This is one of the most considerable of 
the lateral glens bearing down tri¬ 
butaries to the Maggia. Its head is 
enclosed by high mountains that sup¬ 
port small patches of glacier. The 
highest of these is called Pizzo di 
Campo Tenca, with three summits, of 
which the highest attains 10,096 ft. 
A short way above the opening of V. 
di Prato is the village of Prato , where 
the road passes to the 1. bank of the 
Maggia. It appears to be a poor place. 
About 1 m. farther is Sornico, where 
wine, bread, and cheese may be had at 
a shop near the road. This is carried 
on to Peccia, but pending the comple¬ 
tion of the new road is little used. 

Peccia (2,746') is an extremely poor 
village, with a wretched Inn, close to 
the junction of the Val di Peccia (Rte. 
D) with the Val Lavizzara. A good 
new road, made at a larpe outlay by 
the communes in the valley, will soon 
be open to Fusio. In many places the 
way is opened by blasting. As road 
makers the Italian peasants far surpass 
their Swiss neighbours. The way lies 




EOUTE D. 


■VAL BA VON A. 


311 


by the 1. bank of the main torrent, 
which falls in rapids and cascades 
through a ravine far below the path. 
After 1 hr. the path crosses the torrent, 
but soon returns to the 1. bank, recross¬ 
ing the stream farther on, in order to 
reach Fusio (4,203'), the picturesque 
capital of Val Lavizzara, with a very 
fair inn. [The traveller bound for 
Val Leventina may here turn out of 
the valley, and rscend somewhat 
N. of E. to a nameless pass, 7,625 ft. in 
height. From thence the easiest course 
is to keep NE. by the Lago di Tre- 
ruorgio (5,998'), and descend into Val 
Leventina, near Dazio Grande (§ 30, 
Rte. A). The shortest way to Faido 
is, however, nearly due E. to the summit 
of a second and lower pass (7,041'), 
whence there is a practicable descent 
direct to Faido.] 

The Val Lavizzara above Fusio is 
bent first to NW., then about due W. ; 
and this part is sometimes called Val 
Sanibuco, from the name of the highest 
village (4,547'), about 1-j hr. above 
Fusio. The shortest way to Airolo is 
by a path that leaves the valley about 
£ hr. above Sambuco, and mounts 
rather steeply, somewhat E. of N., to a 
pass 7,697 ft. in height, and then de¬ 
scends to the Val Leventina, along the 
Caleaccia torrent. On approaching the 
steep face of the mountain down which 
that str- ani rushes towards the fine 
waterfall that is seen from the high 
road of the St. Gothard, the path 
turns to the 1. along the slope, passes 
Nante (4,679'), and descends directly 
to Airolo (§ 30, Rte. A), which is 
reached in this way in 5^ hrs. from 
Fusio. There is another pass, much 
less difficult to find, on the whole 
more interesting, but considerably 
longer, which is reached by a well- 
marked track earned along the 1. bank 
of the Maggia to the head of Val La¬ 
vizzara. It mounts gradually to the 
Lago di Narret (7,349'), the largest of 
several small lakes lying at the head of 
the valley. After passing the lake, the 
track mounts to the Fasso di Narret 
(8,013'), lying due W. of the lake. 


From hence the way lies to the rt. or 
nearly due N. through an upland glen, 
containing extensive alpine pastures, 
called Alpe di Cristallina, by which 
the traveller descends to Ossasco in Val 
Bedretto (§ 30, Rte. C), about 1^ hr. 
above Airolo. 

Whichever of the passes here men¬ 
tioned be chosen, it will be prudent to 
take a guide from Fusio. In fine 
weather a mountaineer may find his 
way alone by the Passo di Narret, but 
the other passes are scarcely traced, and 
the mountains of this district frequently 
present steep faces of gneiss where 
nothing but minute local knowledge 
enables a traveller to pass without diffi¬ 
culty and delay. In point of absolute 
distance, the Val Peccia, noticed in the 
next Rte., offers a rather shorter course 
for reaching the Narret Pass from Bi- 
gnasco than the way by V. Lavizzara; 
but the head of that wild valley is so 
rough and trackless, that the time re¬ 
quired would probably be much greater 


Route D. 

LOCARNO TO AIROLO, BY VAL BAVONA. 

Of the numerous tributary valleys 
that unite to form the Val Maggia, the 
most interesting to the lover of nature 
is that called Val Bavona, from the 
torrent of the same name that joins the 
Maggia at Bignasco. This valley may 
be taken in the way from Locarno to 
Airolo, or to the head of the valley of 
the Tosa (next Rte.). The Val Peccia 
offers another way to Airolo, but not 
one much to be recommended. It may. 
however, be visited by those who desire 
to return to Bignasco by a new course 
from the head of Val Bavona, as sug¬ 
gested below. 




312 LEPONTINE ALPS. § 32. LOCARNO DISTRICT. 


As mentioned in the last Rte., the 
Tillage of Bignasco is reached by a good 
road from Locarno, whence it is distant 
nearly 19 m. The owner of the small 
Inn near the bridge has a house at San 
Carlo, in Val Bavona, containing at 
least one good bed ; and a traveller 
desiring to explore the upper part of 
the valley, or to ascend the Baso- 
dine, will do well to apply for permis¬ 
sion to lodge there. Provisions should 
be taken from Locarno or from Bi¬ 
gnasco. Soon after leaving Bignasco 
(1,424'), the Val B ivona contracts to a 
defile between high and rugged gra¬ 
nitic mountains, whose lower slopes are 
clothed with chestnut woods. As the 
traveller advances by the path, keeping 
to 1. bank, the rocks on either hand 
approach each other more closely, and 
the narrow space is filled by masses of 
fallen rock, amidst whose crevices the 
chestnut still contrives to findthe means 
of growth. At a point where the blocks 
fallen from the mountain on the rt. are 
piled together in the wildest confusion, 
the following simple inscription on a 
mass that overhangs the path, records a 
catastrophe of which no other memorial 
is preserved: GESU MARIA + 1594 
QUT FU BELA OAMPAGNA 
M.S.F. The way up the valley lies 
throughout amidst grand and striking 
scenery. The mountains on either 
side, formed of crystalline rock, little 
exceed 8,000 It. in height; but as the 
valley is an extremely deep and narrow 
trench, it may vie in grandeur with 
many better known and more frequented 
scenes. The space available for culti¬ 
vation, or even for pasture, is so limited, 
that a very small population finds a 
subsistence here, and nearly all descend 
in winter to Bignasco, or the adjoining 
village of Cavergno. After passing a 
few houses at a place called Ritorto, the 
traveller comes in view of a very fine 
waterfall, formed by the torrent issuing 
from Val Calneggia, a glen descending 
from the range dividing the Val An- 
tigorio from Val Bavona. Just beyond 
the fall is the hamlet of Foroglio , or 
Furoi, 2,211 ft. above the sea. Here 


the track crosses to the rt. bank of the 
Bavona, and the ascent becomes rather 
more rapid. 

At 2^ hrs. from Bignasco is the 
opening of Val Antabbia, a wild glen 
penetrating the range of the Basodine, 
immediately S. of that peak, which rises 
above it in fine terraces of rock. On 
the opposite or E. side of the main 
valley, is the highest hamlet, called 
San Carlo (3,150'). This stands about 
the upper limit of the walnut, the 
chestnut having disappeared some way 
lower down. Excepting the use of the 
house above spoken of, the traveller 
must not count on the resources of this 
secluded place, where years pass with¬ 
out a stranger being seen. 

Gaudenzio Padovani, who accom¬ 
panied the writer in an excursion to 
Val Peccia, would probably be found 
the best guide to the neighbouring 
passes, with which he seems to have 
some practical acquaintance. He has 
made the ascent ot'the Basodine ( 10,748'), 
the highest of the summits enclosing 
the head of the Val Bavona. This peak 
has been attained but twice. The 
second ascent was made in 1863 by an 
Italian engineer, whose object was to 
plant a signal available for the survey 
of the neighbouring valleys. To the 
S. the mountain rises in tiers of steep 
precipices; but to the NE. it subsides 
rather gently in a long slope, covered 
by a considerable glacier. The ascent 
does not appear to be difficult for ex¬ 
perienced mountaineers. The view is 
very extensive, reaching to the cathe¬ 
dral of Milan, and to many of the towns 
in the plain. As the ascent from San 
Carlo is about 7,600 ft., and would be 
very laborious with fresh snow, it would 
be advisable to start very early from 
that village. 

The path leading from San Carlo to 
the head of Val Bavona crosses to 
the rt. bank of the torrent a short way 
above the village, but about £ hr. higher 
up returns to the 1. bank at a point 
where the torrent is contracted between 
high rocks that almost close the valley. 
Then commences a rather steep and 






ROUTE D.—VAL PECCIA. 


313 


long ascent, commanding occasional 
views of the Basodine. The larches 
gradually dwindle as the traveller gains 
the upper level of the valley, where 
three torrents join to form the Bavona. 
Keeping to NE. along the 1. bank, the 
traveller in ^ hrs. from S. Carlo reaches 
a solitary chalet. It may be well for 
the reader to know that the local name 
for a herdsman's or shepherd’s hut here, 
and in several of the Tessin valleys, is 
corte, or baita. The way to the Val Be- 
dretto now lies about due N. above the 1. 
bank of a slender stream issuing from 
the Lago Bianco (6,749'), a small lake 
lying in a deep holiow. A rather rapid 
ascent leads to an upper plateau, where 
lies another larger lake, called Lago 
Sciundrau (7,720'), otherwise Lago 
Sfondrato. This is said to have no 
visible outlet—a common occurrence in 
limestone districts, but very unusual 
amidst crystalline rocks, and the fact 
should be verified by examination on 
the spot. The ascent continues to¬ 
wards the N., till in about 5 hrs. from 
S. Carlo the traveller reaches a pass 
(8,475') in the ridge dividing the basin 
of the Maggia from that of the Tes¬ 
sin. The descent lies at first to NE., 
but before long meets the track from 
the Passo di Narret (Rte. C). The 
course then lies due N. by the Cristal- 
lina Alp to Ossasco in Val Bedretto. 
Airolo is reached from thence in H hr., 
or in about 11 hrs. from Bignasco. 

[The traveller who, having seen the 
head of the'Val Bavona, would return 
by a different way to Bignasco, may 
traverse some scenes of the wildest 
character by taking a course through 
the Val Peccia. On reaching the 
chalet or corte mentioned above that 
lies 2^ hrs. above San Carlo, he 
may ascend towards the NAY. by the 
rocky slope of the mountain. There 
is at first some trace of path, but this 
is soon lost. The way does not at first 
appear difficult, but it soon becomes so, 
and the rocks are so smooth, and give 
so little hold, that some caution is re- 
quisi e. After a rather long ascent, 
which becomes easier as he approaches 


the top of the ridge, the traveller 
finds himself at some height above the 
Lago Nero ( 7,841), a tarn whose gloomy 
colour deserves its name. Winding 
along the rough slope above the AY. 
shore, and then ascending a rather 
steep ridge to the N., he reaches 
a pass (about 8,700') connecting the 
Val Bavona with the extreme head 
of the Val Peccia. This is a wild, 
rocky amphitheatre, often in great part 
filled with snow. To the N. is a 
peak called Cristallina (9,547'), and op¬ 
posite, on his rt. hand, a lower summit 
(9,364'), with a small glacier on its N. 
flank. This savage hollow opens to¬ 
wards the E. Amidst rocks and patches 
of snow the traveller advances and 
accomplishes the first step of his descent 
by an abrupt climb on the rt. bank of 
the torrent down steep rocks that sepa¬ 
rate the upper hollow from the filled* 
up bed of a lake, forming a small plain 
producing some alpine plants. The 
best course is to continue the descent 
by the rt. bank as far as the highest 
chalet or corte, reached in about 2 hrs. 
from t ie pass. Thenceforward there 
is a pretty good cattle-track, keep¬ 
ing to the ri. bank; but the moun¬ 
taineer who does not object to rough 
ground will do better to cross to the 1. 
hank. After a considerable descent, 
it is necessary to return to the rt. 
bank by a wooden bridge near a chalet. 
Here the regular cattle-track begins to 
mount, and makes a considerable circuit 
to avoid a ravine through which the 
torrent rushes down a rapid incline 
along a channel between smooth rocks. 
This ravine is passable by a singular 
track, easily overlooked, and not suited 
to all travellers. The smooth rock on the 
rt. bank slopes towards the bed of the 
torrent at a moderate angle. Sufficient 
hold for the feet has been provided by 
chipping notches, two or three inches 
wide, on the slippery declivity, and here 
and there by inserting branches of trees 
into crevices to support stone flags. 
On these the footing seems rather pre 
carious. At the lower end of the ravine 
the path rejoins the cattle-truck. A 





314 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 32 . LOCARNO DISTRICT. 


short way farther, another path turns 
to the 1. from the beaten track. This 
leads down an extraordinarily high 
and steep step in the valley. There 
are not many places where a barrier 
so formidable in appearance is traversed 
with such ease, in several places by 
6teps cut in the rock. The scenery 
of the middle and lower part of Val 
Peccia is very fine, and the way is 
throughout interesting. In 4 hr. from 
the base of the great descent, the tra¬ 
veller reaches the hamlet of San Carlo 
(3,304'), not to be confounded with 
that in Val Bavona. Here he crosses 
to the 1. bank, and follows a very pic¬ 
turesque path along the slope of the 
mountain. After crossing the Maggia 
a little way above its junction with 
the Peccia torrent, the village of Pec¬ 
cia (Rte. C) is reached in 4f to 5 hrs. 
from the Pass of Lago Nero, descend¬ 
ing the valley. More than 6 hrs. should 
be allowed for the ascent. Two hours’ 
steady walking suffice for the descent 
from Peccia to Bignasco.] 


Route E. 

LOCARNO TO ANDERMATTEN IN VAL 
FORMAZZA. 

The mountain range dividing the 
tributaries of the Maggia from the 
Tosa, and forming the boundary be¬ 
tween Switzerland and Italy, extends 
from the Passo di S. Giacomo (§29, 
Rte. B) about due S. to the Pizzo 
Pioda, near Premia. Its chief summits, 
reckoning from N. to S., are the Kas- 
telhorn (10,246'), Basodine (10,748'), 
Fiorera (9,584'), Sonnenhorn (9,147'), 
and Pizzo Pioda (8.727). S. of the 
latter the range is less regular in its 
direction, and subsides into the mass 
of mountains lying between Domo 
d'Ossola and the Lago Maggiore. Al¬ 
though the summits attain no great 
height, the mean elevation is great, 
there being but one pass below 8,000 ft. 

Four or five passes lead from the Val 


Maggia to Val Formazza. Three of 
these must be reached through Val Ba¬ 
vona. The northernmost is the Boc- 
chetta di Val Maggia, over 9,000 ft. in 
height, lying on the N. side of the Kas- 
telhorn. From Mr. Freshfield’s account 
it would seem to be a fine and not diffi¬ 
cult pass. Time would be lost by at¬ 
tempting it without a local guide as far 
as the top. The descent is easy, and 
joins the path of the Pass of S. Gia¬ 
como, near the lower lake. Another 
pass, not indicated on the Swiss Federal 
Map, leads from San Carlo (Rte. D.) to 
Fruthwald in Val Formazza through 
the Val Antabbia, by the S. side of the 
Basodine : 7 hrs. are said to be required 
for this rte., which must lead through 
very fine scenery. Fruthwald is 1 hr. 
above Andermatten (§ 29, Rte. A). 

A third way from Val Bavona to 
Andermatten is by the Val Calneggia. 
The path mounts from Foroglio, at first 
SW., then due W., to the Forcolaccio, 
a pass less difficult than the last two, 
but counted only as a hunter’s pass. 

5 hrs. from Foroglio—6^ hrs. from 
Bignasco—are said to be sufficient to 
reach Andermatten. 

The other passes here noticed are 
reached through the Val Rovana, which 
joins the Val Maggia close to Cevio 
(Rte. A). After about 1 hr. of rather 
rapid ascent from Cevio the traveller 
reaches Collognasco (2,641'), where the 
Val di Banco, opening to NW., joins 
the main branch of the Val Rovana, 
called Val di Campo above this point. 
The path to Val di Bosco traverses 
Cerentino (3,474'), on the slope of the 
hill E. of the junction, and then de¬ 
scends a little in order to cross to the 
N. bank of the torrent. A gradual 
ascent, at last rather steep, leads to 
Bosco, a poor village inhabited by a 
German population, with an Inn said 
to be uninviting. There are two ways 
from Bosco to the Val Formazza, the 
one lying N., the other S. of the Mar- 
chenspitze (8,816'). The more fre¬ 
quented is the Cririer Furke( 7,631'), the 
southernmost of the two, lying about 
due W. from Bosco. This was traversed 





ROUTE G.-VAL ONSERNONE. 


315 


by Saussure, but by few strangers since 
his time. The path descends on the 
W. side to the Tosa, at a point about 
half-way between Foppiano and Ander- 
matten. From 7 to 8 hrs. are required 
to reach the latter place from Cevio. 


Route F. 

LOCARNO TO PREMIA, BY VAL ROVANA. 

16^ m. to Cevio—8 hrs. thence to Premia. 

As mentioned in the last Rte., the 
hamlet of Collognasco (2,641') stands 
at the meeting of Yal di Bosco with 
Val di Campo. The way to Premia 
lies through the latter valley. A path 
mounts fromCollognasco, rather steeply, 
and through fine scenery, along and 
above the 1. bank of the Rovana tor¬ 
rent, to the principal hamlet of Campo, 
4,429 ft. above the sea. For the next 
hour the course is comparatively level, 
as the path gradually approaches the 
torrent. The head of Yal di Campo 
is occupied by very extensive mountain 
pastures, called Alpe di Cravairola. 
There are numerous passes, all rather 
high, though not difficult, by which a 
traveller may reach the Val Antigorio. 
The most direct way to Premia is by 
that called Scatta del Forno (8,29 P). 
There is a much lower pass lying to 
SE.; but this leads to Crodo instead of 
to Premia. Further information is 
desired. 


Route G. 

LOCARNO TO DOMO D’OSSOLA, BY VAL 
ONSERNONE. 

The Val Onsernane is perhaps less 
visited by strangers even than the Val 
Maggia. It is said to be remarkable 
for the fine timber that clothes its 
slopes, but the scenery is less alpine in 
character. It is drained by the fsorno, 
a considerable stream that joins the 
Melezza about If hr. W. of Locarno. 
The road to Cevio (Rte. C) is followed 
as far as Ponte Brolla, and instead of 
turning to NW. along the Maggia, 
crosses that bridge, and is carried along 
the N. side of the broad valley of the 
Melezza. The village of Intragna 
stands in the angle between the Melezza 
and Isorno, above their junction; but 
the road into Val Onsernone keeps to 
the 1. bank of the latter stream, and is 
practicable for chars as far as Berzona 
(2,638'), about 11 m. from Locarno. 
This village lies a little below the 
point where the two upper branches of 
the valley unite. Both are known by 
the name Val Onsernone. The NW. 
branch, lying altogether in Swiss ter¬ 
ritory, contains but the single small 
village of Vergeletto (2,989'). There is 
a path from thence to Cevio, probably 
interesting, passing by the E. side of 
the Cramalina (7,520'), and the Pizza 
d'Alzasca (7,418'). The head of the 
valley, extending 6 m. W. of Vergeletto, 
has extensive pastures on its N. slopes. 
It is closed to the W. by the steep 
ridge of the Pizza di Madaro (8,366'). 
A pass, 6,444 ft. in height, leads from 
the last chalets to the upper part of the 
Val di Campo (Rte. F). 

The S. branch of Val Onsernone, 
far more populous than the other, opens 
due W. from the hamlet of Russo, 
lying in the fork between the two 
branches of the main valley. The 
bridle-track is carried along the l.bank, 
and after passing Comologno (3,504'), 
in about H hr. from Russo reaches the 
Baths of Craveggia , where there is a 
mineral spring somewhat frequented 
by the natives of this district. The 



31G 


LEPONTINE ALPS. 


§ 32. LOCARNO DISTRICT. 


establishment is said to be on a hum¬ 
ble scale. It lies low (3,320') on the 
rt. bank of the torrent, between steep 
wooded slopes. S. of the Pizzo di Ma- 
daro the frontier between Switzerland 
and Italy does not follow the watershed, 
but cuts across the valleys drained by 
the tributaries of the Melezza. The 
Baths of Craveggia are close to the 
boundary line, but lie on the Italian 
side. There are several practicable 
passes leading westward from the head 
of Val Onsernone, the best known 
of which is the Passo della Furcola. 
They all lead into a valley drained by 
a stream (having the same name— 
Isorno—as that of the Val Onsernone) 
which joins the Tosa nearly at the 
same point as the Diveria, just below 
the bridge of Crevola. Fully 6 hrs. 
should be allowed for this way from 
the Baths to Domo d’Ossola. 

A rather easier way, though involv¬ 
ing a slight detour, is to cross the ridge 
S. of the Baths of Craveggia. A well- 
marked path leads that way to the 
village of Craveggia in Val Vigezzo 
(see next Rte), and there is a good 
road thence to Domo. 


Route H. 

LOCARNO TO DOMO D’OSSOLA, BY VAL 
VIGEZZO. 



Hrs.’ 

Eng. 


walking 

miles 

Intragna 

1- 

H 

Olgia . 

2 

6 

Sta. Maria Maggiore 

• 2J 

74 

Domo d’Ossola . 

. 31 

104 


9f 

294 


This road is practicable for chars, and 
may be recommended to those going 
from Domo d’Ossola to Locarno who 
have already seen the Lago Maggiore. 
The scenery, especially for those ap¬ 
proaching Locarno by the Val Cento- 
valli, is very rich and beautiful. The 
road being very hilly, a char will take 


from 6 to 7 hrs., exclusive of halts. 
In the last Rte. several instances were 
noticed in which confusion is created 
by the unsystematic nomenclature of 
places in this district, either by the 
same name being applied to two differ¬ 
ent places, streams or valleys, or from 
two names being given where a single 
one only is required. Several other 
instances must here be pointed out, in 
order that the traveller may avoid in¬ 
convenient mistakes. 

The valley of the Tosa near Domo 
d’Ossola is connected with Locarno 
and the head of the Lago Maggiore 
by two valleys which, instead of being 
divided by a mountain ridge, diverge 
from a nearly level plateau. The same 
name, Melezza , is given to the stream, 
mentioned in the preceding Rtes., that 
joins the Isorno and the Maggia near 
Locarno, and to that which descends 
in the opposite direction to the Tosa 
near Domo. The lower part of the 
valley of the eastern Melezza, extend¬ 
ing about 11 m. from Locarno, belongs 
to the Canton Tessin, and this is named 
Val Centovalli ; while the upper, or 
Italian, portion of the same valley is 
called Val Vigezzo, which name is also 
given to the entire valley of the west¬ 
ern Melezza descending to Domo. 

The village of Intragna, beautifully 
situated above the junction of the 
Isorno with the Melezza, is reached in 
about 1 j hr. from Locarno, by the road 
along the N. bank and the Ponte 
Brolla, or by a rather longer road on 
the S. bank of the Melezza. The char- 
road is carried from Intragna along 
the N. slopes of the Val Centovalli by 
Verdasio (2,316') to Camedo, the last 
Swiss village. The pedestrian may 
take a rather longer but more shady 
path along the S. side of the valley. 
The scenery is very picturesque. Many 
rugged buttresses of rock project on 
either side, and the scenery offers a 
succession of new and beautiful pic¬ 
tures. From this peculiarity the name 
Centovalli is supposed to be derived. 
The first Italian village is Olgia, about 
5 hr. beyond the frontier. At Fohogno, 



ROUTE I.-YAL CANOBBINA,. 


317 


£ ra. farther, the traveller may choose 
between the road on the 1. hank by the 
village of Craveggia (not to be con¬ 
founded with the Baths of Craveggia 
in Yal Onsernone, see last Rte.), or one 
on the rt. bank by Malesco. Either 
way leads, in about 2^- hrs., from 
Olgia to 

Sta. Maria Muggiore (2,710'), the 
chief place of the united valleys bear¬ 
ing the common name Yal Vigezzo, at 
the E. end of the plateau whence they 
both diverge. Here the chief branch 
of the eastern Melezza descends from 
the Piodadi Crana (7,959'). A moun¬ 
tain track passing E. of that summit 
leads to the head of Val Onsernone. 
There are several country Inns (best is 
Leone d’Or) at Sta. Maria Maggiore, 
and the valley descending to Domo 
contains many large and comfortable 
houses belonging to natives, who re¬ 
turn hither after making fortunes 
elsewhere. This is a good station for 
a botanist, who may find the rare Po- 
ientilla grammopetala, and many other 
interesting plants, on the rugged ridge 
dividing the affluents of the Melezza 
from the head of Val Intrasca (Rte. K). 

At the W. end of the plateau, about 
2 m. from Sta. Maria, is Druogno. Here 
the road begins to descend along the 
western Melezza, first by the rt. bank, 
afterwards on the opposite side. The 
scenery is very pleasing, and the whole 
drive full of interest. 


Route I. 

CANOBBIO TO DOMO D’OSSOLA, BY VAL 
CANOBBIN A. 


fine scenery. As mentioned in Rte. 
A, a considerable valley opens west¬ 
ward, close to Canobbio, on the W. 
shore of the Lago Maggiore. A cart- 
track has been carried along the Val 
Canobbinu for some miles from Ca¬ 
nobbio. At first it lies along the rt. 
bank, but soon crosses the torrent to 
Traffiume , returning before long to the 
S. bank, but recrossing to the 1. bank, 
and coming to an end at a point nearly 
2 hrs. from Canobbio. Probably the 
best course for a pedestrian is to follow 
the old track on the 1. bank from Traf¬ 
fiume to Cavaylio, and thence to Or a* so 
and Cursolo (2,910'). Between the 
point where the road comes to an end 
and Cursolo, the valley makes a great 
bend, and it is about equally short to 
follow a path by Falmenta and Gurro 
that returns to the rt. bank, and then 
crossing the Canobbina, rejoins the 
main track at Cursolo. Another bend 
of the valley leads thence to Finero, 
the highest village in the valley. Here 
the principal branch of the Canobbina 
torrent descends from the SSW., where 
it rises on the W. side of the Cima di 
Laurasca (Rte. K), the highest of the 
summits enclosing the head of Val 
Intrasca. The path traverses a very 
low pass leading from Finero to Ma¬ 
lesco, on the S. bank of the Melezza, 
about 1 hr. from Sta. Maria Maggiore 
See last Rte. 


Route K. 

PALLANZA, OR INTRA, TO DOMO d’oS- 
SOLA, BY VAL INTRASCA. 


Bridle-track to Sta. Maria Maggiore, 6 hrs— A considerable Stream, called Rio 
thence by road to Domo, 3* hrs. di San Bernardino, is poured into 

The course here suggested offers a j the Maggiore between Pallanza and 
variation on that pointed out in the last | Intra (Rte. A). This issues from Val 
Rte., and is said to pass through equally 1 Intrasca, a long valley penetrating 




318 


L FRONTING ALPS. § 

deeply into the rugged mass of moun¬ 
tains so conspicuous in most of the 
views near Stresa or Baveno. It has 
been visited by botanists, who have 
been rewarded by many rare plants, 
but remains utterly neglected by other 
travellers. It offers to the mountaineer 
a way from Domo d’Ossola to the shores 
of the Lago Maggiore. which must offer 
some fine scenery, and from some points 
a view of the peaks of Monte Rosa. 
About 7 m. from Pallanza, or Intra, 
tlm valley forks. The shorter E. branch 
originates in a very fine ridge of granite 
or gneiss between the Cima di Laurasca 
(7,264') and the Monte Zeda (7,064'), 
t e two highest summits of the range 
S. of Val Vigezzo. The longer 
branch of Val Intrasca, called Val 
Grande, descends on the W. side of 
the Cima di Laurasca. From the N. 
end two paths lead to Val Vigezzo. 
The one mounting NE. leads to Sta. 
Maria Maggiore; the other traverses 
the Col della Colonna, between the 
Testa di Menta and Monte Tofano, 
and descends to Trontano. near Domo 
d’Ossola, just at the opening of Val 
Vigezzo. 

[A stream, called Rio di San Gio¬ 
vanni, flows into the Lago Maggiore 
at Intra, parallel to that issuing from 
Val Intrasca. The former drains the 
Val Intragna , a short valley origi¬ 
nating on the E. side of Monte Zeda. 
Between that summit and the Monte 
Spalavera (6.822') a path crosses the 
ridge dividing this from the Val Canob- 
bina, and descends to Finero (Rte. I) ; 
and by that way a traveller may reach 
Sta. Maria Maggiore. Another path 
turns to the E. from the head of the 
valley, passes along the S. slopes of the 
Monte Spalavera. and descends to Can- 
nero (Rte. A). This would be a short 
and probably a very agreeable walk 
from Intra. The hamlet of Intragna 
(2,443'), not to be confounded with the 
larger village of that name W. of Lo¬ 
carno, is the principal place in this' 
valley. It is readied in 2^ hrs. from 
Intra, and has a rough but tolerable 
osteria kept by Minesi. From hence 


33. COHO DISTRICT. 

the Pizzo Marrone (nearly 7,000') may 
be reached in 3^ hrs. It is the conical 
peak, conspicuous irom Baveno and the 
S. part of the Lago Maggiore, crowning 
a ridge projecting S. from Monte Zeda, 
which slightly surpasses it in height. 
The view from the Pizzo Marrone is 
fine and interesting. A small oratory 
stands about 30 ft. below the summit. 

Further information as to these val¬ 
leys is desired. 


SECTION 33. 

COMO DISTRICT. 

In Sections 29, 30, and 31 of this work, 
the portion of the main chain of the Alps, 
usually included under the designation 
Lepontine Alps, has been described. 
It was seen that this common name 
comprehends mountain masses whose 
orographic relations are very indistinct, 
and that the term main chain does not 
imply the existence of a definite axis 
of elevation, throwing the streams on 
the one hand to the basin of the Rhine, 
on the other to that of the Po, but merely 
the fact, that amidst the contiguous 
mountain groups the line of demarca¬ 
tion, or watershed, actually exists. To 
the E. of the Bernardino Pass, which 
marks the limit of the Adula group 
described in § 31, a ridge whose pre¬ 
dominant direction is from N. to S. 
extends from the Rheinwald valley, 
and by its southern ramifications fills 
the space between the Lago Maggiore 
and the Lake of Como. Besides the 
fact that the direction of this range has 
an evident relation to that of the Adula, 
while it has little in common with 
that of the principal masses of the 
Rhaetian Alps described in the next 
chapter, the pass of the Spliigen and the 
valley of San Giacomo form the natural 
prolongation of the cleft through which 
the Rhine descends from the village of 






ROUTE A.—SPLUGEN PASS. 


819 


Spliigen to Coire. For these reasons 
it seems clear that the range now in 
question may most properly be united 
to the Lepontine Alps. 

The portion of this range included 
in the so-called main chain is scarcely 
8 m. in length, extending from the 
Bernardino to the Spliigen Pass, but it 
includes the considerable peak of the 
Tambohorn (10,748'). From that sum¬ 
mit a lofty ridge extends due S. for 
more than 20 m. to the Pizzo d’Agnone 
(8,513'). Beyond that limit the range 
throws out numerous branches, and the 
direction of the lateral valleys becomes 
irregular, as may be seen in a marked 
manner in the strange form of the deep 
depression occupied by the Lake of 
Lugano. The eastern limit of this 
group is marked by the valley of San 
Giacomo, by the course of the Mera, and 
by the Lake of Como. It will he most 
convenient to include in this Section 
the isolated group of mountains lying 
between the two branches of the lake, 
as well as the description of the road 
along the E. shore from Colico to 
Lecco. 

The attractions of the southern por¬ 
tions of this district are widely known. 
As additional facilities have made it 
more and more easy to reach the S. 
side of the Alps, the number of tourists 
whose main object is to see the Lakes 
of Como and Lugano has constantly 
increased. It may be surmised that 
the large number whose acquaintance 
with these lakes is nearly confined to 
what they can see from the deck of a 
steamer, can but form a very inadequate 
idea of a region whose attractions are 
not exhausted to those who have de¬ 
voted months, and even years, to its 
exploration. The hotels on the Lake 
of Como are not quite equal to the 
best in Switzerland, but they now offer 
excellent accommodation. There is 
also at least one good hotel at Lugano, 
which is often resorted to as head¬ 
quarters. Fair country Inns are 
found at many other places in this 
district occasionally resorted to by 
strangers and the new hotel orr the 


Monte Generoso supplies the want 
much felt by English travellers, of cool 
mountain air during the hot season. 


Route A. 

COIRE TO COMO, BY THE SPLUGEN PASS 


Leagues 

Eng. 

miles 

Thusis . . . 


16 * 

Spliigen 



Campo Dolcino . 

H 

16 * 

Cliiavenna . 

21 

7 * 

17 * 

Colico 

5f 

Bollaggio (by steamer) 


13* 

Como .... 

H 

16 * 


35 

105 


In posting, 10^ posts (equal to 92 
m ) are charged from Coire to Coiico. 
The course actually taken by the lake- 
steamer in calling at the villages on 
either shore greatly exceeds the dis¬ 
tances above given. 

The road of the Spliigen was con¬ 
structed at the cost of the Austrian 
Government by the engineer Carlo Do- 
negani, nearly at the same time that 
the Swiss opened the first carriage- 
road between Italy and Switzerland 
over the Bernardino Pass. The N. 
side of the pass, involving an ascent of 
little more than 2,000 ft. from the vil¬ 
lage of Spliigen, presented no unusual 
difficulty; but the descent on the Italian 
side cost a vast amount of labour and 
money, and is, with the exception of 
the Stelvio, the most difficult road that 
has yet been constructed in the Alps. 
It was not so much the difference of 
height to be surmounted, though this 
is nearly 6,000 ft. in a distance of 13 m., 
as the difficulty of protecting the road 
from destructive avalanches, that taxed 
the skill of the engineer, and ultimately 
led to the construction of a new line to 
replace the original road in the most 
difficult part of the Rte. 

The road from Coire to Spliigen 
(4.757') is described in § 31, Rte. A. 
Here the road to the Lake of Como 
j separates from that of the Bernardino 
i leading to theLagoMaggiore, crosses the 







LEPONTINE ALPS. § 33. COMO DISTRICT. 


320 

Hinter Rhein, and at once commences 
the ascent. The original read was 
almost completely destroyed by the 
terrific storm of 1834, and the present 
line is carried at a somewhat higher 
level, seemingly out of the reach of 
floods and avalanches. The view of 
the Rheinwald valley is lost after the 
road passes through a short tunnel, and 
the road enters an alpine glen leading 
towards the pass. Long lines of light 
waggons are commonly met on the 
way, as this road, being the shortest 
from Lombardy to the Lake of Con¬ 
stance, is an important channel for 
commercial intercourse. The last part 
of the ascent, which lies above the limit 
of the pine, is accomplished by sixteen 
long zigzags. Near the summit on the 
Swiss side, Primula longijlora, Sealeria 
disticha , and other uncommon plants, 
may be found. 

The crest of the pass, 2 hrs. from 
Spliigen by the road, but less to a 
pedestrian, is marked by a cross with 
a notice of its height above the sea- 
level—6,945 ft. It marks the frontier 
between Switzerland and Italy. Look¬ 
ing back, the traveller sees the Piz 
Beverin, and some of the other peaks 
W. of the Rhine valley. In the oppo¬ 
site direction the highest summit visible 
is the Piz d'Emet (10,502 '). The Tam- 
bohorn (10,748') lies about 2 m. W. of 
the pass, but is not in sight. It is said 
that the summit may be reached from 
hence, but the only ascents of which 
the Editor has heard have been made 
from the Areuethal (§31, Rte. A). 

The road winds a little to the rfc., 
and in a few minutes reaches the highest 
Cantoniera. This is a large stone house 
intended to serve as a lodging for the 
men employed on the road, and in bad 
-weather as a refuge for travellers. At 
such times, a bell is rung to point out 
the way amidst the deep snow that 
covers the pass for many months in 
the year. About 1 m. from the summit 
the traveller reaches a group of build¬ 
ings, the largest of which is the Italian 
Custom-house, with an uninviting Inn 
beside it. These lie in a nearly level j 


dreary hollow, where snow sometimes 
lies 10 ft. deep in the winter and spring. 
To the west is seen a portion of the 
Curciusa Glacier , lying on the ridge 
connecting the Tambohorn with the 
Pizzo Terre (10,165'). Beyond the 
Custom-house the road crosses the head 
waters of the Lira, which gives its 
name to the stream that accompanies 
the road to Chiaveuna. The original 
path across this pass descended along 
the torrent into the deep gorge of Car¬ 
dinel. as the head of the Val di San 
Giacomo is called. 

4 The French army of Marshal Mac¬ 
donald, who crossed the Spliigen 
between the 27th November and 4th 
December, 1800, long before the new 
road was begun, in the face of snow 
and storm, and other almost insur¬ 
mountable obstacles, lost nearly 100 
men, and as many horses, chiefly in 
the passage of the Cardinel. His 
columns were literally cut through by 
the falling avalanches, and man and 
beast swept over to certain annihilation 
in the abyss below. The carriage- 
road very properly avoids the gorge ot 
the Cardinel altogether, but the way to 
it turns off from the second wooden 
bridge crossed on quitting the Custom¬ 
house.’— [M.] 

After passing the third Cantoniera, 
and some scattered houses, the difficult 
part of the descent commences on the 
1., or E. slope of the valley, at a very 
great height above the torrent of the 
Lira, which is not yet visible. The 
slope being very much exposed to 
avalanches, it has been necessary to 
protect the road by massive galleries, 
of masonry, strong enough to allow 
the avalanches to pass over them with¬ 
out doing injury. Three such galleries 
of unusual length, 755, 699, and 
1,673 ft., are passed in succession. 
Near the small village of Pianazzo 
there is a striking view over the valley 
of the Lira, lying far below the spec¬ 
tator, and of the village of Isola, whence 
there is a path to San Bernardino, 
noticed in Rte. D. The road originally 
I descended from hence to Isola b) a 



ROUTE A.-LAGO DI MEZZOLA. 


321 


very long series of zigzags *, but the 
damage done by avalanches and the 
storm of 1834 led to the abandonment 
of that line, and the construction of a 
new road. This, after passing Pia- 
nazzo, crosses the torrent descending 
from the Madesimo Pass a few paces 
from the point where it springs over 
the edge of the precipice into the val¬ 
ley of San Giacomo. A solid stage 
with a balustrade has been constructed 
at the very edge of the rock beside the 
waterfall. This is not in itself remark¬ 
able, the volume of water being small, 
but the view is very striking, and no 
one should pass without turning aside 
to enjoy it. Immediately beyond the 
waterfall, the road enters a tunnel, and 
on emerging from it commences a 
descent which is probably the steepest 
which has ever been made passable for 
wheeled vehicles. On reaching the 
level of the valley, there is about 1|- m. 
of moderate slope leading to 

Campo Dolcino (3,553'), a small and 
poor village, with a pretty good Inn 
at the post station. The village is 
close to the junction with the Lira of 
the Rubbiusu, torrent, descending from 
the Pizzo Groppera (9,625'). The Val 
di SanGiacomo is, throughout its length, 
wild and rugged, and this effect is- 
heightened by the masses of debris and 
larger blocks that cover the slopes and 
the narrow space in the floor of the 
valley. A little below Campo Dolcino 
the chestnut begins to appear, and as 
the traveller descends to Chiavenna 
this beautiful tree partially covers and 
corrects the sternness of the rock 
scenery. The numerous campanili 
that come into view as the traveller 
descends the valley, give an Italian 
aspect to scenes that are highly pic¬ 
turesque, but have not much else that 
is characteristic of the South. The road 
descends constantly, but not very 
steeply, throughout the way to 

Chiavenna (Inns: H. Couradi, at the 
post station, best; Chiave d’Oro, 
cheaper; at both the people are tricky). 
This ancient town stands 1,040 ft. above 
the sea. near the junction of the Lira, de- 
PART II. ■ 


spending from tbe Yal di S. Giacomo, 
with the Mera, issuing from Val Bre- 
gaglia (§ 36). The position is very 
picturesque. Rugged peaks of crystal¬ 
line rock rise in every direction above 
the nearer slopes, which are clothed 
with chestnut woods ; and fine masses 
of rock project here and there from 
the lower level of the adjacent valleys. 
It lies too low, however, and the near 
mountains are too steep and high, to 
make it a desirable stopping-place for 
a mountaineer. There is an ancient 
castle, once belonging to the Salis 
family, which is visited by strangers 
for the sake of its garden, and for the 
fine view gained from the top of the 
rock. The church of San Lorenzo 
contains some curious fragments or 
antiquity. Being the place at which 
one of the main roads to the Engadine 
joins the Spliigen road, there is con¬ 
siderable traffic here, and frequent 
passage of tourists during the summer 
and autumn. 

The road from Chiavenna to the 
Lake of Como commands some fine 
views of the adjoining mountains, but 
the valley is often defaced by tbe 
masses of gravel brought down by the 
Mera. Above the rt. bank of that 
stream there is a waterfall near the 
village of Gordona, sometimes visited 
from Chiavenna. The road keeps to 
the 1. bank, passing under the steep 
spurs of the Pizzo di Prata (8,663'), 
which is visible from some points on 
the road. About half-way to Colico is 
the post station of Riva, standing at 
the N. end of the Jaujo di Mezzola, 
This originally formed the N. end ot 
the Lake of Como ; but the prodigious 
mass of detritus brought down by the 
Adda has filled up and barred across 
the portion of the original lake-basin 
lying opposite the opening of the Val 
Tellina. After passing the opening of 
the Val Codera, a very wild glen en¬ 
closed between pinnacles of crystalline 
rock, the road is carried along the E. 
shore of the L. di Mezzola, then crosses 
the Adda by a new stone bridge, and 
traverses the low marshy tract that 





'o2 ( 2 LEPONTINE ALPS. § 

covers the space gained by the Adda 
tom the lake: see § 36, Rte. E. Pass¬ 
ing near the Fort of Fuentes, erected 
by the Spaniards to command the 
entrance to the Val Tellina, the travel¬ 
ler reaches the shore of the L. of 
Como at 

Calico (Inns : Albergo del Lago ; 
Isola Pella; both indifferent, dirty, and 
dear). This village, as well as all those 
on the borders of the marshy delta of 
the Adda, long held a reputation for 
unhealthiness, and pernicious fevers 
were said to be common amongst the 
native population. Drainage-works 
recently executed are said to have re¬ 
moved or diminished the evil; but a 
traveller will do well to avoid sleeping 
here—and, in truth, there is little 
temptation to do so. 

This is the terminus for the lake- 
steamers. Of the three departures, 
two only take place by day, as one 
steamer starts, or did recently start, at 
2.30 a.m., for the convenience of travel¬ 
lers arriving from Coire by diligence. 

The traveller bound for Como, who 
would not make a long detour by 
Lecco, or follow a still more laborious 
route on foot or on horseback along 
the W. shore of the lake, must avail 
himself of the steamer. The chief 
places on the way from Colico to Lecco 
are noticed in Rte. B; those on the 
W. shore are mentioned below. 

The Lake of Como fills a remark¬ 
able depression or cleft which has not 
only cut through the limestone moun¬ 
tains that enclose the greater part of 
its course, but also the zone of crystal¬ 
line rocks that extends from the N. end 
of the Lago Maggiore to the Legnone 
immediately S. of Colico. The form 
of the lake is very peculiar, being that 
of a Y reversed. Of the two southern 
arms or legs, the E. branch extending 
to Lecco is the true outlet, while the 
W. branch leading to Como is an en¬ 
closed bay. During the glacial period, 
when a great glacier filled each arm of 
the lake, the ice rose high enough to 
overflow the comparatively low barrier 
S. of the town of Como, and the flanks 


33. COMO DISTRICT. 

of the hill near Camerlata still bear 
evidence of the passage of some portion 
of the glacier in that direction. Mea¬ 
sured along the mid-channel, the length 
of the lake from Gera, N. of Colico, is 
about 37 m.; and this is about the same 
whether it be measured by the W. arm 
to Como, or by the E. arm to Lecco. 
In most places the breadth varies from 
1 to 2 m.; but in the broadest part, 
between Menaggio and Varenna, it 
reaches 2^ m. The height of the lake 
above the sea-level is 699 ft., and the 
depth, which is everywhere consider¬ 
able, in some places reaches 1,926 ft. 

A writer well acquainted with the 
charms of this far-famed lake risks fall 
ing into hyperbole, while it must be 
owned that those who see it for the first 
time sometimes experience a sensation 
akin to disappointment. The great 
height of the adjoining mountains is 
not at first fully apprehended; and their 
effect is to dwarf its apparent dimen¬ 
sions, and give to it something of the 
character of a river. But if it be true 
that the sheet of water lying between 
the opposing heights is in some degree 
intermediate between a great river and 
a narrow lake, it may challenge com¬ 
parison, for the beauty and grandeur of 
its scenery, with any other river or 
lake. The lesser mountains along the 
lake-shore seldom rise to less than 5.000 
ft. above the level of the water, while 
the greater peaks, such as the Legnone, 
Grigna, and Campione, attain a rela¬ 
tive height of from 7,000 to 8,000 ft. 
These proportions, which are matched 
by but two or three of the smaller 
alpine lakes, are here combined with 
wondrous variety of form, presenting 
contrasts that can scarcely be equalled 
elsewhere, and with a luxuriance of 
Southern vegetation that has no rival, 
except on the other two great lakes of 
the Italian Alps. This holds on the 
S. side of the Alps the same place that 
belongs to the Lake of Lucerne among 
those of Switzerland, and according 
to the taste of each traveller he may 
prefer the one or the other, unless, like 
the present writer, he should divide the 



ROUTE A. 


LAKE OF COMO. 


323 


palm between them. Here the stranger 
finds not only the richer vegetation of 
the South, but also the outward form of 
Italian life. Massive houses of sub¬ 
stantial masonry replace the wooden 
galleries and spreading roofs of the 
Swiss rural dwellings,while villas, some 
of them approaching the scale of pa¬ 
laces, are crowded together on many 
parts of the lake-shore. The bright 
green meadows, so characteristic of the 
mountain slopes surrounding most of 
the Swiss lakes, here give place to the 
varied shades of grey and brown that 
are blended with the green in the moun¬ 
tain pictures of the South. The climate 
is very perceptibly hotter than on the 
lakes of N. Switzerland, and the air 
less bracing. This is especially felt by 
the mountaineer, who often forgets that 
his starting-point is at least 1,000 ft. 
lower than it generally is on the N. side 
of the Alps, and who finds the ascent 
of a mountain 6,000 ft. in absolute 
height a far more laborious undertaking 
than he is used to count it. No part of 
the lake exhibits those softer features 
that mark the southern end of the Lago 
Maggiore, where low rounded hills, 
cultivated to the top, contrast with 
the steeper shores of the northern ex¬ 
tremity. Como is throughout a moun¬ 
tain lake, but it presents three distinct 
regions that have few common charac¬ 
teristics. The broader northern arm 
is the most alpine in character. The 
Monte Spluga (9,351'), backed by the 
Punta Trubinesca (11,106'), and other 
snowy peaks at the head of the Val 
Masino (§ 36. Rte. F), forms a back¬ 
ground rivalling in height, though not 
in grandeur of form, that presented at 
the head of the Lake of Geneva; but 
the Legnone (8,560') far surpasses any 
of the mountains rising from the shores 
of the Swiss lake. Although there are 
many large villages on either shore, 
this part of the lake is little visited by 
strangers; and though it abounds in 
sites that can scarcely be surpassed 
elsewhere, there are but few villas. 
These are crowded together iu the Como 
■branch of the lake. This is the favour- 1 


ite resort of the wealthy nobility of 
Lombardy, and of very many strangers 
who have sought a retreat on these en¬ 
chanted shores. The Lecco branch of 
the lake exhibits the extreme of wild¬ 
ness and ruggedness. The narrow 
space along the edge of the water affords 
room for a few small villages, but behind 
them the mountains rise so boldly as,, 
to leave no space for cultivation. On 
the eastern shore the rocks are ranged 
tier over tier, backed by the bare grey 
precipices of the Grigna ; while on the 
opposite side the declivity is more un¬ 
broken, but the mountains do not 
attain an equal height. 

The navigation of the Lake of Como 
is a matter of interest to the stranger 
who visits its shores ; for nowhere else 
in the Alps is boating so universal an 
occupation and amusement. In the 
neighbourhood of Como, and that of 
Tremezzina, it is not unusual, on a fine 
summer’s evening, to see forty or fifty 
row-boats plying in various directions. 
Those of the residents all carry a flag, 
usually some fancy device, so that they 
are recognised at a distance by acquaint¬ 
ances. In settled weather the S. wind, 
called breva. sets in an hour or two 
before noon, and subsides in the even¬ 
ing. During the hotter hours it is often 
so strong, that it is difficult to make 
way against it in a small boat. The 
N. wind, or tivano, blows gently during 
the night and early morning. Storms, 
accompanied by thunder and lightning, 
are not uncommon, and come and de¬ 
part very quickly. At such times 
squalls are often violent, and even dan¬ 
gerous. 

Of the many varieties of fish, the 
most esteemed are trout (Trota), pike 
(Luceio), and the Agonc, Cyprinus la- 
riensis, a delicate fish, which may be 
called a fresh-water pilchard, peculiar 
to the lakes of Lombardy. 

The botanist approaching the lake 
of Como from the north or west, finds 
that he has entered on a new region, 
marked by the presence of a number 
of species that extend throughout the 
1 space lying between this lake and that 




824 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 33. COMO DISTRICT. 


of Garda. Some of these are found, 
though less abundantly, beyond the 
limits here indicated, but most of them 
are not known to grow elsewhere. The 
many rare plants found on the Grigna 
and Campione are specially enumerated 
in § 38, where the vegetation of the 
Legnone is also noticed. The follow¬ 
ing may be considered as characteristic 
of the limestone mountains surround¬ 
ing the lake, and in favourable sites 
most of them descend nearly to the 
water’s edge:— Clematis recta,Aquilegia 
Bertolonii , Viola heterophylla, Laserpi- 
tiumpeucedanoides, Telekia speciosissima , 
Centaurea Austriaca, Leontodon tenui- 
florus, Hieracium porri folium, Phyteuma 
comosum, Carex baldensis, and C. mu- 
cronata. 

The neighbourhood of the lake will 
afford ample occupation for the geolo¬ 
gist. The stratified rocks are in some 
places rich in fossils, and the recent 
investigations of M. Stoppani have 
given a special interest to the triassic 
deposits near Varenna, and to those 
immediately following the trias, largely 
developed near Lecco, which that able 
geologist distinguishes as a separate 
member of the series of secondary rocks 
by the name Infra-Lias. In few parts 
of the Alps are erratic blocks so widely 
spread or carried to so great a height 
as on the mountains surrounding the 
lake, and especially on the ridge di- 
vidingits two southern branches. They 
are chiefly of a granitoid rock, mainly 
composed of feldspar and quartz, locally ! 
known as Serizzo Ghiandone. 

To the antiquary and the student of 
early Christian art, there is ample room 
for investigation, not only in such places 
as Como and Gravedona, where he will 
find monuments already well known ; 
but in many of the small villages stand¬ 
ing near the lake, or in the surround¬ 
ing valleys, the churches exhibit more 
or less well preserved examples of 
characteristic Lombard architecture, 
whose history may in most cases be 
traced back by authentic documents 
to the original foundation of the build- 1 
ings. I 


The best account of the lake and 
its immediate neighbourhood is con¬ 
tained in a small work by M. Leon- 
hardi, pastor of Brusio in Yal Tellina, 
entitled ‘ Der Comersee und seine 
Umgebungen.’ 

On leaving Colico, the steamer, leav¬ 
ing on the rt. the village of Gera, 
with a population of fishermen, who 
take large numbers of trout at the 
mouth of the Adda, crosses the lake 
to Dumaso, a beautifully-situated vil¬ 
lage with a remarkable elm-tree of 
great age in its piazza. This place 
is reached on foot or in a char by a 
road that turns to the W. from the 
high road N. of the Adda bridge, 
crosses the Mera just below the L. di 
Mezzola, and then follows the base 
of the mountains. Of many exquisite 
views none surpass that from La 
Madonna di Livo, on the slope of 
the Como di Burin (7,156')- The 
hunters here say that in winter, when 
pressed for food or by close pursuit, 
chamois, and even bears, have been 
known to swim across the lake, and 
seek refuge in the recesses of the Le¬ 
gnone. The char-road is carried rather 
more than 1 m. beyond Domaso to 
Gravedona , the largest village on the 
lake. The good Inn ( Albergo del Sasso) 
formerly open here was closed in 1865. 
This place, standing at the mouth of 
the Liro (not to be confounded with 
the Lira in Yal di San Giacomo), may 
vie in natural attractions with the most 
i frequented on the lake. The wine 
disease and failure of the silk crop have 
caused great distress here and in the 
neighbouring villages, and many hun¬ 
dreds have migrated within the last 
few years. The remains of the ancient 
castle are scarcely traceable; there is 
now a beautiful garden on the site, 
which commands an exquisite view. A 
palatial residence built in the sixteenth 
century, by Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio, 
is now called Palazzo del Pero. It 
does not contain any remarkable work 
■ of art. The parish church of San Vin- 
! cenzo is very ancient, and contains 
[ inscriptions taken from a still earlier 




ROUTE A.—BELLAGGIO. 


325 


fifth-century church. The crypt is 
supposed to occupy the site of a heathen 
temple. The church of San Giovanni 
Battista, with its porch surmounted by 
an octagonal tower and some early 
stone carving, is also very curious. 
The neighbouring village of Brenzio is 
worth a visit for the paintings by Fia- 
menghino and Isidoro Bianchi that 
adorn its church. 

A mountain path up the S. bank of 
the Liro leads from Gravedona to Bel- 
linzona, by the Passo di San Jorio, or 
to Roveredo by the Passo di Oamedo 
(Rte. F). 

There is no road passable for car¬ 
riages between Gravedona and Laglio 
near Como. The ancient track, called 
Strada Regina, whose formation is 
attributed to the Lombard Queen 
Theodolinda, is here and there made 
available for country carts. A fter pass¬ 
ing the summer palace of the Bishop 
of Como, near a bridge over the Albano 
torrent, the track reaches Dongo, a 
village with large iron-works and many 
stately houses, which would be thought 
worthy of a capital city on the N. side 
of the Alps. The steamer calls for 
passengers here as well as at Grave¬ 
dona, and then crosses the lake dia¬ 
gonally to Dervio (Rte. B). The 
Strada Regina passes under the Castle 
of Musso , the stronghold of Giovanni 
Medici, the famous Milanese adven¬ 
turer, half-hero, half-bandit, whose 
story is one of the most singular epi¬ 
sodes of Italian life in the sixteenth 
century. Keeping along the side of 
the mountain, at some height above 
the lake, the track passes the villages 
of Musso, Pianello, and Cremia, and 
then returns to the shore at Bezzonico , 
nearly opposite Dervio, where the lake 
is contracted to little more than 1 m. 
in width. The steamer takes pas¬ 
sengers here, and then keeps along the 
E. shore, to call at Bellano and Varenna 
(Rte. B). Rezzonico was the birth¬ 
place of Pope Clement XIII. The 
village is overlooked by a fine castle, 
purchased some years ago by the Duca 
Litta, who designed to convert it in;o J 


a villa. Between this place and Me¬ 
naggio the Strada Regina climbs the 
steep slope of the Sass<> Rancio (5,478), 
a bold summit conspicuous in all the 
views of the middle part of the lake. 
The track, in some places excavated on 
the face of the precipitous rocks, was 
long considered dangerous, and the 
Russian troops passing this way in 
1799 lost many men and horses, who 
fell over the precipice into the lake. 
It has been improved of late years. 
The lake-shore is reached again at 
Nobiallo, a little solitary village almost 
cut off from the rest of the world. 
About 1 m. farther is the large vil¬ 
lage of 

Menaggio (Inns: Vittoria, large new 
house ; Corona, not had), a place of 
considerable traffic, being that where 
travellers from Lugano (Rte. G.) reach 
the Lake of Como. A Roman inscrip¬ 
tion, which has given rise to some 
discussion, is built into the wall of the 
church of Sta. Marta. Dr. Rezia pos¬ 
sesses here an ornithological collection, 
including all the birds of this district, 
which is obligingly shown to strangers. 
On a shelf of the mountain, nearly 
1,000 ft. above Menaggio, is Loveno, 
a village with several villas, the most 
remarkable of which is the Villa Vi- 
goni, built by the late Milanese banker, 
M. Mylius. It contains many good 
specimens of modern Italian sculp¬ 
ture. 

To reach Menaggio the steam ex- 
crosses the lake from Varenna just at 
its widest point, and then turns S. to 
touch at Bellaggio, on the W. side of 
the promontory separating the Como 
and Lecco branches of the lake, and 
deservedly one of the chief resorts of 
strangers on the lake. In the village 
are the Gran Bretagna and Albergo 
Genazzini, large and well-conducted 
Hotels, the former rather dearer, be¬ 
sides more modest inns, Pension 
Suisse and H. de Florence. Near at 
hand is the Villa Giulia, once the 
property of the late King of the 
Belgians, facing the Lake of Lecco, 
now a good Hotel and Pension, and the 




326 LEPONTINE ALPS. < 

less convenient Villa Serbelloni, now a 

pension. 

This place and Cadenabbia partake 
in an equal degree of the advantages 
of a central situation close to the 
meeting of the three branches of the 
lake. The writer recommends those 
who remain but one or two days to 
prefer Bellaggio, so as conveniently to 
enjoy the morning and evening view 
from the grounds of the Villa Ser¬ 
belloni ; while those who spend a 
longer time here should choose the 
shore between Tremezzina and La 
Majolica. The latter, having an east¬ 
ern aspect, enjoys shade during the 
afternoon from 2 p.m. to sunset, while 
Bellaggio, if cooler in the morning, lies 
exposed to the sun at the time when 
most persons are disposed to be out of 
doors. Further than this, the views 
from Cadenabbia and La Majolica in¬ 
clude all the three branches of the lake, 
the lofty range of the Grigna rising to 
a great height above the comparatively 
low promontory of Bellaggio, while it 
is not visible from that village. 

The main interest of a visit to Bel¬ 
laggio is in the grounds of the Villa 
Srrbelloni , so called although the male 
line of that family is extinct. The 
grounds belonging to the villa (an ugly 
building, now a pension ) occupy the 
greater part of a rocky peninsula form¬ 
ing the centre towards which con¬ 
verge the three branches of the lake, 
and overlooking the low isthmus con¬ 
necting it with the higher mountains 
to the S. Walks have been carried 
round the promontory at various levels, 
in some places cut into the face of the 
nearly vertical cliffs, or carried by- 
arches from one point of rock to 
another. The views in every direction 
are matchless for beauty and variety. 
One of the most striking effects is pro¬ 
duced where a short tunnel, cut through 
the rock, shows at either end a picture 
such as is scarcely to be found out of 
dream-land. Some of the finest villas 
on the lake are close to Bellaggio. Ex¬ 
ternally the most striking is the new 
Villa Fn'zzoni, in whose architecture 


§ 33 . COMO DISTRICT. 

and internal fitting-up large expendi- 
ture has been combined with good taste. 
It contains a few good pictures by old 
masters. The Villa Melzi was built 
by the great-uncle of the present owner, 
once vice-president of Napoleon’s Cis¬ 
alpine Republic. With a somewhat 
plain and heavy outside, this affords 
in its interior one of the best specimens 
of an Italian villa. The works of art 
are chiefiy modem, and include a re¬ 
markable portrait of Napoleon executed 
in 1802, and said to be the best extant 
likeness of his earlier period. The 
garden contains fine specimens of 
many trees and shrubs that grow with 
difficulty in England, but here find a 
congenial climate, along with several 
well-executed marble busts and groups 
of sculpture. The Villa Giulia, now 
a hotel, mentioned above, is about ^ m. 
from Bellaggio, on the side of the pro¬ 
montory looking towards the Lecco 
branch of the lake The beautiful 
road from Bellaggio to Asso and Erba 
is described in Rte. K. 

Immediately opposite to Bellaggio, 
on the W. shore, is Cadenabbia , a 
group of houses opposite the landing- 
place, with the Bellevue Hotel, a well- 
kept house, recently much enlarged 
and embellished, crowded during the 
summer months. The adjoining houses 
are let by the month to visitors. Facing 
the gravel-walk leading along the shore 
to Menaggio are several small villas; 
next, the Hotel de la Belle lie, with 
smaller rooms and less handsomely 
fitted up than the Bellevue, but quieter 
and cheaper. About 5 min. beyond 
this is another hotel, larger than the 
last, called Hotel de la Ville de Milan, 
or La Majolica. This, as well as the 
Belle lie, are chiefly frequented by 
Italian visitors > the Bellevue being pre¬ 
ferred by English tourists. Those who 
remain for some time at any of these 
hotels should make an agreement with 
the innkeeper. The usual daily rate 
varies from 6 to 8 fr. per head, accord¬ 
ing to the rooms occupied, with 3 or 4fr. 
each for servants. A private sitting- 
room is charged extra. Families 





ROUTE A.— 

arriving in August or September should 
write beforehand to secure rooms. 

Close to Cadenabbia, in the direction 
opposite to La Majolica, is the Villa 
Carlotta, formerly Villa Sommariva. 
This is the largest and most stately of 
all the villas on the lake, and the most 
famous for its works of modern art. 
The Cupid and Psyche, the Magdalen 
and the Palamedes, are counted amongst 
the best works of Canova; and there 
are several good statues by other 
modern artists. But the chief object 
of interest is Thorwaldsen’s famous 
bas-relief—the Triumph of Alexander 
-—the greatest, and probably the best, 
work of that great sculptor. Executed 
for Napoleon, who was to have paid 
the artist a million of francs, it was 
purchased after his fall by Count Som¬ 
mariva for half that sum. The terraces 
and gardens will appear somewhat 
contracted to those used to the Crystal 
Palace of Sydenham, but the climate 
supplies the place of art. 

Visitors to Cadenabbia usually prefer 
expeditions that can be made by water, 
but those who do not give way to 
indolence may find various excursions 
by land, and the naturalist is sure to 
be rewarded by many objects of in¬ 
terest. There is a delightful walk 
along the lake-shore to Menaggio, 
following the ancient Strada Regina, 
which hits been in part reconstructed 
in consequence of the encroachments 
of the lake. It passes along the base 
of a very steep round-topped promon¬ 
tory of rock, rising about 2,000 ft. 
above the lake, and called Sassodi San 
Martino. In returning from Menaggio, 
the mountaineer, especially if he be a 
botanist, may with advantage clamber 
up a rather steep ravine on the N. side 
of the rock and so reach its summit, 
and then descend by a slightly-marked 
track to Griante, a village on a ter¬ 
race above La Majolica. Those who 
satisfy themselves with a less extensive 
view may be content to reach the 
church of La Madonna di San Martino, 
standing on a ledge about one-third 
of the height of the mountain, and 


TREMEZZO. 327 

reached by a paved path from Gri¬ 
ante. 

A longer excursion from Cadenabbia 
is that to the summit of the Monte 
Crocione, rising immediately to the W., 
and commanding a very extensive 
view. The top, which on this side 
presents the appearance of a steep 
grass-covered cone, is separated from 
the lower slopes by a belt of nearly 
vertical limestone rocks seemingly im¬ 
passable, but a practised eye will detect 
a cleft by which the barrier is climbed 
with little difficulty. The summit is 
about 4,800 ft. above the lake, and as 
the ascent is steep and hot, from 3^ to 
4 hrs., exclusive of halts, should be 
allowed. The cathedral of Milan, 
many villages in the plain, and a large 
portion of the lake, are seen from this 
commanding point; but the view to the 
W. is partly cut off by the slightly 
higher summit of the Monte Galbiya 
(5,600'), which overlooks the head of 
the Lake of Lugano. There is an 
extensive cavern in the face of the 
Monte Crocione which has never been 
thoroughly explored. 

The Villa Carlotta stands at the E. 
side of a rounded promontory on whose 
S. face stands Tremezzo, a scattered 
village chiefly composed of houses let 
for the season to visitors, intermixed 
with pretty villas. There is here a 
rather rough Inn, Albergo Bazzoni, 
fairly well kept, where strangers, 
chiefly Italian, lodge and board on 
very reasonable terms. The lake is 
here seemingly closed to the S. by the 
promontory of Balbianello, forming a 
rounded basin about 2^ m. in diameter, 
screened from all winds, and enjoying 
the warmest winter position anywhere 
found on its shores. Delicate persons 
who cannot support the cold season 
in the plain of Lombardy sometimes 
find advantage in remaining here, and 
many plants that cannot survive else¬ 
where bear testimony to the mildness of 
the winter climate. The E. shore here 
shows a very steep slope with scarcely 
a house, and is traversed by a mere 
goat-track, while the bay, extending 





328 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 

from Tremezzo to Balbianello, is 
covered with scattered houses and 
villas. One of the largest of these is 
La Quiete, belonging to the Marchese 
Busca. The village of Lenno, about 
2 m. from Tremezzo, has excited the 
curiosity of antiquaries by some Homan 
remains, and by a singular crypt be¬ 
neath the parish church, which is said 
to have formed part of a temple. Close 
at hand is an Early Christian church 
or oratorv. 

The promontory of Balbianello 
stands out boldly from the W. side of 
the lake, stretching nearly half-way 
across to the opposite shore, with rocks 
that on both sides run down steeply to 
a great depth under the water. The 
finely-situated villa on the extreme 
point belongs to the Marchese Arco- 
nati. On rounding the point of Balbi¬ 
anello the traveller passes to the rt. 
the little Isola Comacina, famous in 
the early history of Lombardy, and 
enters upon a new region of the lake, 
which is here turned towards WSW. 
After passing along the N. base of 
the Monte S. Primo (5236'), which 
slopes very steeply to the water’s edge, 
the steamer touches Argegno , where 
the road from Val Intelvi (Rte. H) 
reaches the shore. There are two small 
country Inns (best is Vapore), offering 
indifferent accommodation. In 1848 
the people of Val Intelvi, under the 
guidance of an innkeeper of San Fedele, 
successfully resisted an attempt of the 
Austrian troops to land at this point. 
A few days later the latter effected their 
entrance to the valley from the S. side, 
and the obscure village hero was taken 
prisoner and shot at Como. 

From Argegno the lake extends due 
S. about 5 m. between steep and high 
mountains that give a somewhat stern 
character to this portion of its shores. 
On the E. bank is Nesso, where a pretty 
waterfall is seen in a deep cleft or ra¬ 
vine, called Orrido di Nesso. A path 
mounts steeply from Nesso to a high 
plateau on the N. side of the Monte 
S. Primo, and thence descends into Val 
Assina (Rte. K). Opposite to Nesso i 


; 33. COMO DISTRICT. 

the village of Brienno lies close to the 
W. shore at the base of a steep slope. 
Oil made here from the fruit of the bay 
(Laurus nobilis ) commands a high price 
in the market. S. of Brienno is Tor- 
rigia. a hamlet belonging to Laglio, 
chiefly remarkable for a cavern, named 
Baca dell' Or so, reached by a rough and 
steep path in about f hr. This cavern 
excited much interest amongst the 
geologists of Lombardy by a large 
number of bones extracted from it some 
years ago, for the most part belonging 
to the cave bear, Ursus spelceus, so com¬ 
monly found in similar situations in 
France and England. There is a nearly 
complete skeleton in the museum at 
Milan, and a large collection at Laglio 
belonging to M. Casella, who has been 
one of the most diligent explorers. The 
cave contains two, if not more, small 
pools or underground lakes, whose 
water keeps a constant temperature of 
about 49° Fabr. A naturalist wishing 
to explore the cave may apply for ad¬ 
vice and assistance to Don Baldassare 
Bernasconi, a well-informed priest at 
Torrigia,to whom the writer is indebted 
for much information as to the adjoining 
Val Intelvi. This gentleman, in 1863, 
descended a vertical chimney-like shaft 
68 ft. deep, lately discovered in the 
cavern, but merely found some rolled 
fragments of bones of ruminants, proba¬ 
bly washed into it by a rise of the water 
in the cave. No traces of flint weapons, 
or other tokens of man’s presence, have 
been discovered here. On the E. side of 
the lake opposite Torrigia there is a 
cave above Carena, called Grotta della 
Maseda, somewhat similar to the Buca 
dell’Orso, but of larger dimensions, and 
deserving careful examination. S. of 
Torrigia on the W. shore is Laglio , 
where the traveller remarks a colossal 
monument to a Dr. Franck, who left 
25,000 fr by will to immortalise his own 
memory in this manner. On the oppo¬ 
site shore some way farther S., in an 
angle shaded from the morning and 
midday sun, lies the Villa Pluiiuna, 
standing in the coolest position on the 
: lake. The name of Pliny is connected 



ROUTE A.-COMO. 


329 


with the spot by a remarkable ebbing 
and flowiug spring rising close to the 
villa, and accurately described by the 
younger Pliny. The cause of its regular 
daily oscillation has not been satisfac¬ 
torily explained. It is apparent that the 
calcareous mountains in this neighbour¬ 
hood must be penetrated by extensive 
cavities that are partly filled with water. 
Near the village of Molina, a short way 
E. of the Pliniana, an engineer em¬ 
ployed to construct a mill early in this 
century removed a mass of rock, and, 
in so doing, opened the way for a sub¬ 
terranean current which burst out from 
the side of the mountain, and forms in 
succession two pretty waterfalls—one 
of 75, the other 130 ft. Though not 
comparable to the greater waterfalls of 
the Alps, they deserve a visit for the 
sake of the singularity of their origin. 
The Villa Pliniana contains no import¬ 
ant works of art. The first Napoleon 
resided here for a short time after com¬ 
pleting the betrayal of the Venetian 
Republic by signing the treaty of 
Campo Formio. 

On the W. shore, nearer to Como, 
is Moltrasio, with many villas about it, 
of which the largest is that of Count 
Passalacqua, who has made an interest¬ 
ing collection of antiquities found at 
various places on the shores of the lake. 
On the opposite side, on a projecting 
point of land, is 

Torno, once a place of great wealth 
and importance, the rival of Como, but 
reduced to insignificance in the 16th 
century, when it was taken and sacked 
by the Spaniards. From hence to Como 
both shores of the lake present a suc¬ 
cession of villas of very varied archi¬ 
tecture. The inhabitants on the E. 
side have been lately disquieted as to 
the security of their dwellings. Early 
in 1864, one richly-furnished villa at 
Blevio, with the adjacent ground, 
slipped bodily into the lake, and fissures 
have been seen that seem to portend 
further disaster. On this side the shore 
is steep, and the villas are accessible 
only by water or by a rough mountain- 
path. *On the W. side of the lake 


approaching Como the slope of the 
mountain is more gentle, and the car¬ 
riage-road, long open as far as Cernob- 
bio, has been carried on to Laglio. At 
Cernobbio , about 3 m. from Como, the 
large building formerly known as Villa 
d’Este, inhabited for some time by 
Queen Caroline of England, and much 
discussed during her trial, has been 
lately converted into an hotel (Regina 
d'lnghilterra), said to be the best con¬ 
ducted on the lake, and deservedly much 
frequented. It cannot, however, be 
compared for the beauty and variety of 
the surrounding scenery to the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Bellaggio and Tremezzo, 
A pedestrian may reach in about 2^hrs. 
from the hotel the summit of the Slonte 
^Bisbino (4,416'), a conical mountain 
with a chapel on the top, commanding a 
beautiful view extending to Monte Rosa. 

At the head of the long bay extend¬ 
ing hither from Bellaggiois the ancient 
city of 

Como (Inns: H. Volta, formerly 
Angelo, rebuilt and admirably fitted up, 
and well conducted; Italia, on the 
opposite side of the port, tolerable; 
Corona, and other second-rate houses). 
The stranger arriving for the first time 
in Italy will be surprised at the scaleof 
the public and private buildings in a 
town of second-rate importance. The 
cathedral is a very interesting building, 
though injured in architectural effect 
by the confusion of various styles, 
having been begun in the 14th, and not 
finished till the 18th century. The 
Broletto, or town-hall, is a purer speci¬ 
men of Italian mediaeval art, dating 
from the 13th century. There is a 
modern theatre deserving notice as one 
of the finest in Italy. 

Three ancient churches, all of them 
believed to occupy the sites of heathen 
temples, well deserve the attention of 
the antiquary. The oldest is that of 
S. Carpoforo, built, as it is said, in the 
4th century by the first Bishop of Como. 
The church of S. Fedele, on a larger 
scale, dates from the 6th century. 
Several fragments of Roman sculpture, 
and amongst them a colossal head of 







830 


lepontine alps. 


§ 33. COMO DISTRICT. 


Julius Caesar, were found in excavating 
near it. More interesting than either 
of these is the church of Sant’Abbon- 
dio, one of the best extant specimens 
of early Lombard architecture, with 
extremely curious stone carving. This 
stands a little out of the town, about a 
mile from the cathedral. 

The station for the railway to Milan 
is at Camerlata, 1| m. distant from 
the port, and at a considerable height 
above the lake. Omnibuses ply to 
and fro to meet the trains. There 
are five trains daily each way, per¬ 
forming the distance—about 28 m.—in 
little less than hr. 


Route B. 

COLICO TO MILAN, BY LECCO. 


Varenna . 

Eng. 

miles 

. 11 

Lecco . . . 

. . . 14 

Monza 

. . . 20 

Milan (by rail) 

... 85 




The road along the E. shore of the 
Lake of Como, between Colico and 
Lecco, forms part of the great military 
road of the Stelvio, constructed at a 
vast expense by the Austrian Govern¬ 
ment to connect Milan with the Tyrol, 
but which was not found to be of any 
practical utility in the two campaigns 
in which Austria has contended for the 
possession of Lombardy. Most tra¬ 
vellers prefer to travel between Colico 
and Milan by the lake-steamer to Como, 
and then by rly. ; but those who have 
already enjoyed that Rte. may well take 
the road to Lecco, and join the Como 
rly. at Monza. Since the opening of 


the rly. from Lecco to Bergamo, this 
is the shortest way for travellers bound 
for the latter city, and other places on 
the line leading to Verona and Venice. 
Colico (noticed in the last Rte.) is 
one of the places from whence the as¬ 
cent of the Legnone is sometimes 
made, but it is a better plan to start 
from Premana or Pagnona, in the val¬ 
ley of the Varrone. See § 38, Rte. H. 

The first village passed after leaving 
Colico is Olgiusca. From hence a pro¬ 
montory stretches into the lake, and all 
but completely encloses a small sheet of 
water called Logo di Piona. This is a fa¬ 
vourite resort of waterfowl and of some 
sorts of fish, and large numbers of both 
are taken here in winter. The names 
of the villages of Dorio, Corenno, and 
Dervio, passed in succession by the 
high road, are supposed to be of Greek 
origin, and local antiquaries assert that 
these, as well as several other places 
on the lake, were peopled by Greek 
colonists, settled here in the time of 
Julius Caesar—a belief that seems to 
rest upon slight foundations. Corenno 
has amodernised castle belonging to the 
Andreani family, who have held it for 
nearly 500 years. The Castle of Der¬ 
vio was of much importance in the 
Middle Ages, and being deemed im¬ 
pregnable, gave its possessors great 
local influence. The village of Dervio 
lies at the mouth of the Varrone, a 
little to the rt. of the road. About 2 
m. farther is 

Bellano (Inn: Albergo della Torre, 
very fair country inn), a large village 
with a considerable manufacturing 
population. There are extensive iron¬ 
works, a large factory for spinning 
and weaving silk, and several paper- 
mills. The village stands at the open¬ 
ing of Val Sassina (§ 38, Rte. E), at no 
great distance from a fine waterfall of 
the Pioverna, which drains that beau- 
ti*il valley. This is the finest of the 
many waterfalls near the shores of the 
lake, but it was much injured by the 
fall of some large masses of rock. The 
parish church is large, and has some 
good pictures by early Lombard mas- 



POUTE B.—LAGO DI LECCO. 


331 


ters. The W. front exhibits side hy 
side the arms of the Torriaui and Vis¬ 
conti, whose mortal enmity fills so 
large a space in the contemporary his¬ 
tory of Milan. Being much exposed 
to cold winds, Bellano passes for the 
coldest, as the neighbouring village of 
Varenna counts as the hottest place on 
the lake. Hence the distich— 

‘ Chi vuol provar pene d’inferno, 

Vada d’ esta a Varenna, ed a Bellan d' inverno. 

The portion of the shore between 
Bellano and Varenna presented great 
difficulties to the construction of the 
military road. The rocks in many 
places sink in a sheer declivity to the 
water’s edge, and plunge at a high 
angle under the lake. Five tunnels 
pierced through the crystalline mile¬ 
stone give a passage to the road. On 
a terrace from 500 to 600 ft. above the 
lake, stands the Hydrotherapic Esta¬ 
blishment of Regoledo, said to be very 
well kept, and much frequented by 
Milanese visitors. The beauty of the 
site and the purity of the air probably 
contribute much to the salutary effects 
attributed to the water-cure. 

Varenna (Albergo Marcionni, good, 
beautifully situated on the lake, prices 
rather high), on a headland of the E. 
shore, a little above the promontory of 
Bellaggio, and exactly opposite to the 
fine peak of the Sasso Rancio. It 
affords excellent head-quarters to the 
geologist and the botanist, who find 
ample employment in the glen of Esino, 
described in § 38, Rte. F. This cannot, 
however, be recommended as a stop¬ 
ping-place to ordinary visitors. The 
popular verse quoted above truly de¬ 
clares it to be intolerably hot in summer: 
from an early hour in the morning until 
late in the evening there is no shade 
to be found, and bathing in the lake 
seems to be the only resource of those 
who fear to expose themselves to the 
sun’s heat, doubled in intensity by re¬ 
flection from the surrounding rocks. 
Rooms are (or were lately) let during 
the summer in the large building 
which was formerly known as Albergo 
della Posta. The cypresses in the j 


garden here are amongst the finest in 
Europe. Some orange and lemon trees 
that grow in the open air have perished 
either from cold or disease during the 
last few years. The ruined castle, 
reached by a steep, but partly shaded 
path, affords a noble view, but scarcely 
superior to that gained from the hotel. 
Less than 1 m. from Varenna is the 
Fiume Latte, a rather remarkable cata¬ 
ract, fed by a torrent that bursts out 
from the side of the mountain about 
1.000 ft. above the lake. It is sup¬ 
plied by subterraneous drainage from 
the upper ridge of the Grigna, and 
being mainly fed by the winter snow, 
dwindles away in autumn, and bursts 
out again in the following spring. The 
high road is carried along the base of 
a high and steep terrace of the Grigna, 
concealing from view the upper part of 
that mountain. Near Olcio the rocks 
approach so near the lake-shore, that 
some tunnelling w as requisite for the 
construction of the road. On a point 
of land formed by the detritus of the 
Neria torrent, a little to the rt. of the 
road, stands 

Mandello, a thriving village, with a 
tolerable country Inn. Following the 
course of the Neria, a path leads NW. 
to Val Sassina, joining the path from 
Varenna near the summit of the Cai- 
nallo Pass (§ 38, Rte. F). A practised 
climber may reach the highest peak of 
the Grigna from this side, but the way 
is long and very steep. 

Since leaving Varenna, the road has 
been carried along the E. shore of the 
Lecco branch of the lake, sometimes 
cafled Lago di Lrcco. This presents a 
striking contrast to the branch leading 
to Como, which is described in the last 
Rte. In place of the abundant tokens 
of human activity, we here encounter 
a sterner aspect of nature, and scanty 
traces of man’s presence. Save the 
two small hamlets of Limonta and 
Onno, the W. shore of the Lecco Lake 
is almost completely uninhabited. A 
steamer now plies daily (twice on 
Sundays) between Lecco and Colico, 
j calling at Bellaggio and Cadenabbia; 



332 LEPONTINE ALPS. $ 

hut only a few barges are seen, each with 
a large square sail urged bv the brcva 
to the N. during the warmer hours of the 
day, or taking advantage of the tivano at 
night, to carry their cargoes to Lecco. 
More than once the writer has enjoyed 
a peculiar and very striking scene in 
travelling by water at night from Tre- 
mezzina or Yarenna to Lecco. In 
approaching Lecco, where the lake is 
scarcely 1 m. in width, the boat passes 
near the base of the Como di Canzo. 
Numerous lime-kilns are established 
along the water’s edge, and, probably 
to avoid the great heat of the day, the 
fires are lighted in the evening, and 
fed during the night with huge faggots 
of brushwood cut on the slopes of the 
mountain. Then a fierce blaze sends 
a beam of red lurid light across the 
lake, and in passing opposite to each 
kiln, the dark outlines of the men en¬ 
gaged in feeding the fire form groups 
such as the old painters vainly endea¬ 
voured to depict in their representa¬ 
tions of the infernal regions. 

On the way from Mandello the road 
passes but the single small village of 
Abbadia, and passing along the base of 
very steep rocks, buttresses of the Cam- 
pione or Southern Grigna, in about 
4 m. more reaches 

Lecco (Croce di Malta ; Alb. d’ltalia; 
Leone d'Oro; all fair, first is best), 
a populous town, with large factories for 
spinning silk, and several iron-works. 
The position is very picturesque. To 
the N. rise the bare rocks of the Cam- 
pione, to the E. the no less rugged 
range of the Resogone, w r hile on Jhe 
opposite shore of the lake is the Como 
di Canzo, noticed in Rte. K. 

Opposite Lecco the lake is con¬ 
tracted into a strait with a sensible 
current, but it is soon enlarged into a 
large sheet of water, called Logo di 
Garlate, fully 4 m. long and nearly 1 m. 
in width. The road to Ballabio and 
Introbbio is described in § 38, Rte. E, 
where the botanical reader will find 
notes as to the flora of this district. 

A long bridge of ten arches crosses 
the narrow neck of the lake close to 


33. COMO DISTRICT. 

Lecco, and the road to Milan is carried 
along the W. shore of the Lake of 
Garlate. At Olginate this is contracted 
to the dimensions of a river, but ex¬ 
pands again into a smaller basin called 
Logo d ’ Olginate. Near the S. end of 
this last extension of the L. of Como 
are huge erratic blocks, and the re¬ 
mains of great moraines deposited here 
by the ancient glacier of the Adda, 
The road traverses a fine country, rich 
in silk and wine, on the outskirts of 
the Brianza (Rte. L), before reaching 

Monza (Inns: Falcone; Angelo). 
The cathedral is a building of the 
highest interest. Commenced by the 
Lombard Queen Theodolinda. it was 
rebuilt in the 14th and completed in 
the 15th century, and contains some 
curious fragments of early stone 
carving. The sacristy, though partly 
destroyed by the French, still contains 
some of the most curious remains of 
the art of the 6th and 7th centuries. 
They include many objects said to 
have belonged to Queen Theodolinda, 
including a copy of the Gospels, a cross 
presented to her by Pope Gregory the 
Great, and a MS. list of relics sent to 
the queen by the same pope, and be¬ 
lieved to be his autograph. No less 
noteworthy is the missal of Beren- 
garius, who became king of Italy 7 on 
the death of Charles le Gros in 888. 
The carving of the ivory covers is 
extremely curious. Three carved ivory 
diptychs preserved here have afforded 
occasion for discussion amongst anti¬ 
quaries. They appear to be Roman 
work. More famous than any of 
the above-mentioned objects were the 
pectoral cross and iron crown used in 
the coronation of the kings of Italy. 
In modern times the latter has served 
alternately for the coronation of the 
first Napoleon and the three last em¬ 
perors of Austria. It was removed by 
the Austrians in their retreat from 
Lombardy in 1859. 

The royal palace at Monza is a large 
building of plain architecture, with an 
extensive enclosed park and well-laid- 
out gardens. 






ROUTE C.-MONTE CAMOGHE. 


333 


Milan (Inns : II. Cavour. facing the 
public gardens, the best for families 
who engage a sitting room; Albergo 
di Milano, opened 1863, large house; 
Alb. della Villa, not so well managed 
as formerly, dear; Alb. Reale, very 
well conducted; Hotel Reichmann, 
chiefly frequented by Germans, good, 
prices rather less than those above 
mentioned ; Gran Bretagna, said to 
be good, but rather dear; Marino, 
not so well managed as formerly. 
The following are cheaper: Europa; 
H. de France—both conveniently situ¬ 
ated, the first especially reasonable; 
t?an Marco; Bella Venezia, fallen off; 
Pensione Svizzera; Alb. del Pozzo; 
Alb. degli Angeli—the last frequented 
by lovers of Milanese cookery). 

Even a brief notice of this great city 
would exceed the limits of this work. 


Route C. 


BELLINZONA TO COMO, BY LUGANO. 



Post 

Eng. 


leagues 

miles 

Bironico 

H 


Lugano . 

. . 2* 

. . 3f 


Mendrisio . 

ii* 

Como . . 

Ol 

• • *4 

Gf 


12 

3G 


In posting travellers pay for 4| posts, or about 
3 m. 

In the mountain district lying be¬ 
tween the two greater lakes of Lombardy 
is a deep sinuous depression occupied 
by the Lake of Lugano, by many 
thought to be no unworthy rival of its 
more famous neighbours. This lies on 
the high road leading from the Pass of 
St. Gothard to Milan. It was seen in 
§ 32, Rte. A, that the only direct way 
to descend from the St. Gothard to the 


plains of Piedmont is by water, along 
the Lago Maggiore. A road traversed 
twice a day by diligences passes the 
ridge dividing the lower valley of the 
Ticino from the basin of the Lake of 
Lugano by the low pass of Monte 
Cenere, a serious but not insuperable 
obstacle to the projected railway from 
Milan to the Lake of Constance by the 
Lukmanier Pass. 

Carriages with two horses from Bel- 
linzona to Lugano cost 25 fr.; to Como, 
or Camerlata, 50 fr. The price of a 
place in the diligence to Camerlata is, 
in the coupe, 10 fr. 60 cent.; in the 
interior, 8 fr. 70 cent. 

About 5 m. from Bellinzona the road 
to Magadino bears to the rt. along the 
level valley of the Ticino, at the point 
where the high road to Lugano begins 
to mount the slope of the Monte Cenere. 
The ascent is not steep, but rather 
tedious, the view's not being of much 
interest. The pedestrian may shorten 
the way by a short cut, but must be¬ 
ware of losing his way in the thicket. 
The apprehensions of danger from rob¬ 
bers, once well founded, have long 
since disappeared, ow r ing to improve¬ 
ments in the cantonal police. The 
summit level, 1,903 ft. above the sea, 
is reached after an ascent of 1 hr., and 
the road at once commences the gradual 
descent to Bironico (1,482'), near the 
banks of the Agno —one of the chief 
feeders of the Lake of Lugano—which 
here descends from the S. side of the 
Monte Camoghe (7,304'), one of the 
highest summits in this neighbourhood, 
sometimes ascended for the sake of the 
view, sometimes by botanists, w ho find 
several very rare plants on its upper 
ridge. [The way to the Camoghe lies 
from Bironico to Jsone, 1^ hr. distant, 
where rough quarters may be found 
for the night, but it is well to take 
provisions. An easy ascent of about 
3^ hrs., which would be practicable on 
horseback, leads from Isone to the 
summit, but the stranger starting before 
daylight to secure a good chance of the 
view should take a guide from the 
village. The panorama extends from 






334 LEPONTINE ALPS. § 

Monte Rosa to the Orteler Spitze, but 
it is somewhat broken to ESE. by the 
slightly higher summits of the Pizzo 
Menone and Pizzo di Gino. The 
botanist who seeks to gather the -very 
rare Androsctce Charpentieri in flower 
should visit the mountain before the 
end of June. There appears to be no 
difficulty in descending along the ridge 
to the E. into the Val Cavargna, and 
so to Porlezza or Menaggio. ] The 
high road follows the rt. bank of the 
Agno from Bironico to Taverne, where 
there is a decent country Inn, and 
thence to Ostarietta. One road follows 
the Agno to the lake-shore at the vil¬ 
lage of that name (Rte. G), but to reach 
Lugano it is necessary to traverse the 
low ridge connecting the peninsula 
crowned by the Monte Salvatore with 
the higher mountains to the N. The 
summit level is reached near the village 
of Vezia, and the descent to Lugano 
presents charming views of the lake 
and the surrounding mountains. The 
diligence from Bellinzona takes 4 hrs. 
to reach 

Lugano (Inns: Hotel du Parc, large, 
hannsome and well-kept house, for¬ 
merly a convent, just outside the town; 
Pension Belvedere, kept by the same 
master for families making some stay— 
charge 9 fr. daily in summer, 6 fr. in 
winter—there is an English chapel 
connected with the hotel; H. Wash¬ 
ington, new, and Alb. Svizzero. kept 
by the same proprietor, fairly good; 
Corona, poor). This is the largest 
of the three towns that divide the 
first rank in the Canton Tessin. It 
is beautifully situated along the shore 
of the lake, but does not contain many 
objects of interest, except some very 
fine frescoes by Bernardino Luini in 
the church of Sta. Maria degli Angeli, 
where there is also a remarkable 
Madonna by the same master. The 
facade of the church of San Lorenzo is 
adorned with some curious stone carv¬ 
ing. There are many fine gardens 
here, of which the Giardino Ciani 
especially deserves a visit. It contains 
a statue — La Desolazione — by the 


33 . COMO DISTRICT. 

eminent sculptor Vela, a native of this 
canton : he has a studio in the town. 

The chief object of interest to a 
stranger at Lugano is the Monte Salva¬ 
tore. It is impossible to speak of it 
without some reference to the lake on 
whose shores it is so conspicuous. The 
form of the Lake of Lugano, also called 
Lago Ceresio, is strange and irregular; 
it has been compared to a fish-hook, a 
sickle, and various other objects, but 
may, perhaps, be best understood if we 
consider its W. end as a nearly regular 
oval basin, about 6 m. long and 5 m. 
wide, in the midst of which a steep 
conical rock has been raised about 
2,100 ft. above the level of the water, 
connected with the N. shore by a neck 
of land about 2 m. in breadth. Lugano 
stands on the E. side of this isthmus, 
and a tolerably straight arm of the lake 
extends opposite to the town towards 
ENE. about 9 m. A shorter arm ex¬ 
tends to the S. as a bay about 3 m. in 
length. The height of the lake above 
the sea is 889 ft.; its depth is very 
irregular, but soundings have been 
made to a considerab e depth below the 
level of the sea It follows from this 
description that the Monte Salvatore 
is all but completely encircled by 
the lake, whose surface is nearly all 
visible from the top of the mountain. 
The ascent is frequently made, and 
the path may be found without a guide 
by a person used to mountain- walking. 
Horses may be taken to the top. Charge 
for a guide. 4 fr.—for a mule 6 to S fr., 
with a buonamano to the conductor. 
Rather less than 1 m. from the town 
a track turns to the rt. from the high 
road. After passing a pretty villa, this 
reaches the hamlet of Parzallo in about 
f hr. from Lugano. Nearly 1 hr. is 
required for the ascent from thence to 
the summit, 3,051 ft. in height. The 
view is extremely beautiful, and though 
partly limited by the higher mountains 
around, includes a great part of the 
range of Monte Rosa. Looking over 
the southern branch of the lake, between 
the Mte. Generoso and the Mte. di San 
Giorgio, the traveller may, in clear 





ROUTE C.—LUGANO TO COMO. 


weather, descrv the cathedral of Milan. 
The Monte Salvatore is extremely in¬ 
teresting to the geologist. It is formed 
by the protrusion of a mass of por¬ 
phyry through stratified limestone, and 
the fact which has excited much atten¬ 
tion is the apparent conversion of the 
latter into dolomite as it approaches to 
a junction with the porphyry. This is 
very well seen by the road leading from 
Lugano to Melide, on the way to Como. 
The tour of the Monte Salvatore is a 
very pleasant excursion from Lugano. 
The circuit may be made on foot or in 
a boat, and the return to Lugano is by 
the road from Luino (Rte G), joined 
somewhere near Agno. The convent 
of Bigorio, lying E. of Taverne, on the 
road from the Mte. Cenere to Lugano 
(see above), affords a very pretty walk 
or ride from Lugano; the church is 
said to contain some good pictures. 
Many other pleasant expeditions may 
be made either by land or water. Of 
the latter that most recommended is 
to the Monte Caprino, rising from the 
lake immediately opposite to the town. 
Numerous natural caves have been 
artificially enlarged, or arranged so as 
to become available as wine-cellars, 
where the temperature remains cool 
during the hottest weather. The cus¬ 
tom of forming drinking-parties to visit 
such places is common in Tessin, and 
extends to the neighbouring shores of 
the Lake of Como. The word grotto 
is commonly used for a cellar of this 
description formed in the rock. As a 
general rule, it implies that wine is not 
only kept, but sold by retail. The way 
to Porlezza, at the E. end of the lake, 
deservedly a favourite excursion from 
Lugano, is described in Rte. G. A 
steamer plies twice every day to Capo- 
lago, and once a day (on five days oi 
the week) to Porlezza. 

The road from Lugano to Como is 
carried along the shore under the steep 
rocks of Monte Salvatore for nearly 
4 m. to Melide , where the shallowness 
of the lake is such as to allow the 
formation of a causeway across it, con¬ 
nected at either end with the land by 


a bridge that allows the passage of 
steamers and barges. Having crossed 
the causeway to a place called Bissone, 
probably deriving its name from the 
vipers which—as well as scorpions— 
are common near the shores of the lake, 
the road runs along the shore under 
projecting spurs of the Monte Generoso, 
which presents a very steep face on this 
side. At the end of the S. arm of the 
lake, about 8|- m. from Lugano, is 
Copolago, a place well known for the 
printing establishments whence pro¬ 
hibited works of every description were 
carried into Italy, before the recent 
changes that have established there 
full liberty of the press. Nearly 3 m. 
farther is the large village of 

Mendrisio (Inns: Angelo, tolerable ; 
a large new house to open in 1873), 
whence omnibuses ply to Como. At 
the house of Dr. Pasta, the owner of the 
establishment, mules are found for the 
ascent to the large new hotel on the 
Monte Generoso. A guide is not re¬ 
quired. For an account of that mountain 
see Rte. H. The last Swiss village, 4 m. 
beyond Mendrisio, is Chiasso, standing 
at the extreme S. point of the territory 
of the Confederation. The frontier of 
Italy is formed by a small stream, be¬ 
yond which stands the custom-house. 
This is but 2 m. distant from Como 
(Rte. A). Passengers going to the 
railway may proceed direct to Camer- 
lata without entering Coino. 




336 


LEPONTINE ALPS. § 33. COMO DISTRICT. 


Route D. 

CAMPO DOLCINO TO MESOCCO. 

Having described the main roads by 
which travellers entering Italy from 
the N. approach the Lakes of Como and 
Lugano, it seems desirable to notice 
the transverse passes across the moun¬ 
tain range extending from the Tambo- 
hom to the neighbourhood of Como. 
As regards those mentioned in this and 
the following Rtes. little or no infor¬ 
mation has reached the Editor, and an 
attempt at a personal examination of 
some of them was frustrated by bad 
weather. 

1. By the Passo di Balniscio (7,715'). 
This is the northernmost of the passes 
connecting the Val di San Giacomo with 
the Val Mesocco. It leads from Isola, 
the chief village at the head of the 
former valley (about hr. above 
Campo Dolcino) to a point between 
San Bernardino and Mesocco (§ 31, 
Rte. A), but rather nearer to the former. 
The distance is not great, but the pass 
is rather high and very rough, the 
way being described as a path for 
chamois. Nevertheless, an active 
mountaineer may reach S. Bernardino 
from Isola in little more than 4 hi*s. 
The descent on the W. side lies imme¬ 
diately S. of the Cima di Balniscio 
(9,967') and the Puzo di Curciusa 
(9,422’). The traveller should take 
a guide, and, including halts, should 
allow from 7 to 8 hrs. to reach either 
S. Bernardino or Mesocco from Campo 
Dolcino. 

2. By the Passo Bardan. This ap¬ 
pears to offer a more direct course 
than the last-mentioned path between 
Campo Dolcino and Mesocco. This 
pass lies between the Cima di Bardan 
(9,387') andtheDosso Mottasio (9,879'). 
The summit is 8,490 ft. above the sea. 
No further reliable information can be 
given respecting it. 


Route E. 

CHIAVENNA TO ROVEREDO. 

1. By th e Passo della Forcola (7,274'). 
Though lower than either of the passes 
named in the last Rte., this is longer 
and more laborious, the two extremi¬ 
ties lying at a much lower level. The 
way from Chiavenna is at first SW., 
by the W. bank of the Mera. The 
ascent commences near the village of 
Mrse, and the ascent lies WNW. to the 
summit of the pass. The direct way 
down is through the Val della Forcola, 
a glen opening into Val Mesocco, a 
short way above the waterfall of Buffo- 
lara. The traveller bound for the 
lower end of the Val Mesocco may 
probably save some time by following 
a track that diverges to the W. from 
near the top of the pass, and after 
winding round several projecting but¬ 
tresses, descends into the main valley 
near Lostallo, where there is a decent 
Inn (§ 31, Rte. A). This has been 
spoken of as a difficult, and even dan¬ 
gerous pass, probably on insufficient 
grounds, as it is frequently used by the 
people of Val Mesocco. 

2. By Val Bodenyo. The Val Bo- 
dengo is a lateral glen, drained by a 
tributary of the Mera which joins that 
stream about 4 m. S. of Chiavenna. 
It appears that there is more than one 
practicable pass over the ridge at the 
head of this valley extending north¬ 
ward from the Pizzo dAgnone (8,513'). 
The descent on the W. side lies tnrough 
a short glen opening opposite to Cama 
in Val Mesocco. Mr. Sowerby, who 
passed this way in 1865, found slight 
traces of a path, and encountered nu¬ 
merous difficulties. This way is very 
imfrequented, and further information 
is requested. 




ROUTE G.—LUINO. 


337 


Route F. 

GRAVEDONA TO BELLINZONA. 

The way first described below is a 
comparatively frequented path; the 
other is little used. 

1. By the Pcissodi San Jorio (6,417 / ). 
8 to hrs. exclusive of halts. Practi¬ 
cable for horses only on the Italian side. 
The woods having been partly cleared, 
the walk is very hot in summer. 
It would be judicious to start before 
daylight. The path from Gravedona 
ascends along the S. side of the Liro 
torrent. On the way the traveller may 
visit the church of Brenzio, where are 
some of the best works of the painters 
Fiamenghino and Isidoro Bianchi (see 
Rte. A). Fully 4 hrs. are required to 
reach the summit of the pass, lying 
about due E. from Gravedona. In ap¬ 
proaching it the track keeps for a while 
along the crest of the ridge dividing 
the valleys of the Dongo and Liro, 
which commands a very fine view, 
especially to the E. toward the ranges 
enclosing the Val Tellina. Close to 
the top is a small chapel, but the easiest 
path leaves it to the rt., and after cross¬ 
ing the ridge, winds back to the rt. for 
a considerable distance. On the Swiss 
side the shortest way in distance to 
Bellinzona is along the ridge on the N. 
side of Val Morobhia. The ordinary 
and easiest way is to descend into Val 
Morobbia. The ancient track has been 
covered or carried away, and the path, 
sometimes scarcely marked, is extremely 
rough. After crossing the stream and 
returning to rt. bank, the path ascends, 
and after many intermediate ups and 
downs reaches Carenna, and then St. 
Antonio. The worst part of the very 
fatiguing paved path, often cut up by 
streamlets, is between the last hamlet 
and Pianezzo. Then a steep descent 
leads to Giubiasco on the high road 
b m. below Bellinzona. There is a 
path from Dongo (Rte. A) by which a 
traveller may reach the S. Jorio Pass very 
nearly as soon as from Gravedona. It 
joins the regular track near the summit. 


2. By the Passo di Camedo (7,028'). 
Information is wanting as to this pass, 
which is a longer and more laborious 
way than the last, but must lead through 
very beautiful scenery. The way to it 
lies through a NW. branch of the Liro, 
.and the descent is through the Val 
Traversagna , opening opposite to Bo- 
veredo in Val Mesocco (§31, Rte. A). 


Route G. 


LUINO TO MENAGGIO, BY LUGANO. 


Ponte Tresa 

Post 

leagues 

• • H 

Eng. 

miles 

6| 

Lugano . 

. • 2 £ 

6f 

Porlezza . 

. . 3 

9 

Menaggio . 

• • 2f 

~ioi 

81 

30f 


This is now a deservedly frequented 
Route, and as it is especially recom¬ 
mended to travellers visiting the Italian 
lakes for the first time, and approach¬ 
ing them from the W. side, it is here 
described accordingly. There is no 
way in which the scenery can be seen 
to greater advantage, and at the same 
time this course is the easiest and most 
direct tor those coming from the Sim¬ 
plon Pass or from Piedmont. 

Luino (Inns : A new large house— 
H. Simplon?—Alb. della Beccaccia, to 
the rt. of the landing-place, fair; several 
smaller inns in the village), as men¬ 
tioned in § 32, Rte. A, is one of the 
principal stations of the steamers cm 
the Lago Maggiore. A post-carriage 
leaves Lugano for Luino at 9 a.m., 
and returns from that place at 4 p.m. 
Besides this, many vehicles are always 
ready for hire. Amongst them are 
usually some carriages belonging to the 
Hotel du Parc, and the traveller in¬ 
tending to halt there will usually do 
better to take one of these, rather than 
encounter the trouble and annoyance 
of bargaining. Luino stands abcut 


PART II. 





338 LEP0NT1NE ALPS. § 

£ m. N. of the mouth of the Tresa, 
through which the drainage of the L. 
of Lugano is poured into the Lago 
Maggiore. As the difference of level 
is considerable — nearly 250 ft.—the 
Tresa is a swift stream, forming rapids, 
and in one place a continuous cataract. 
The road to Lugano takes a course 
parallel to the Tresa, but at some 
distance to the N., over ground that 
recalls the appearance of the hilly dis¬ 
tricts of Britain, e.g. S. Wales, more 
nearly than usual in Italy. The like¬ 
ness is increased to the eye of the 
botanist, on observing that the plants 
are nearly all of British species; the 
common heather, Betonica, Drosera , 
Rhynchospora alba, with many rushes 
and sedges, being predominant. The 
frontier between Italy and Switzerland 
is passed about 3 m. from Luino. The 
custom-house officials are usually satis¬ 
fied with a civil assurance from the 
traveller that he has no articles liable 
to duty. The country becomes richer 
and more picturesque as the traveller, 
after a slight descent, reaches 

Ponte Tresa, a village standing at 
the point where the Tresa flows out of 
a small landlocked bay of the L. of 
Lugano. A bridge over that stream 
gives passage to a road that leads due 
S. to Varese, or SW. to Laveno (Rte. 
I). The road now traverses a tongue 
of land, and finally reaches the shore 
of the L. of Lugano, a short distance 
from Agno. This end of the lake is 
called Lago d’Agno. The village 
stands at the opening of the valley tra¬ 
versed by the Agno torrent, leading to 
Bironico and the Monte Camoghe 
(Rte. C). It is easy to reach the road 
from Lugano to Bellinzona at Osta- 
rietta. [An active pedestrian, instead 
of following the direct road, may turn 
to the rt. at Agno, and make the circuit 
of the Monte Salvatore, passing all the 
way along the shore of the lake. See 
Rte. C. Nearly 4 hrs. should be al¬ 
lowed for the circuit.] The road from 
Agno to Lugano traverses the isthmus 
connecting the Mte. Salvatore with the | 
N. side of the lake, ascending slightly, ; 


S3. COMO DISTRICT. 

and passing along the S. side of the 
pretty Lago di Muzzano, a small basin 
of clear water, lying amidst wooded 
slopes. The descent to Lugano com¬ 
mands a beautiful view. For a notice 
of that town and neighbourhood, see 
Rte. C. 

Most strangers bound for the L. of 
Como will avail themselves of the 
steamer to Porlezza, unless they should 
prefer to hire a boat in order to enjoy 
the scenery more at their leisure. There 
is a rough track along the mountains on 
N. side of the lake, passing Gandria. 
It involves several ascents and descents, 
and fully 4 hrs. should be allowed for 
reaching Porlezza that way. The 
scenery of the E. branch of the L. of 
Lugano, though it cannot rival the 
grandeur of its greater neighbours, has 
a charm of its own that leaves a deep 
impression on all lovers of natural 
beauty. Its characteristics are a rich 
wildness, and voluptuous simplicity— 
such as nature here assumes, with 
little or no interference from man. 
The slopes on both sides are steep, but 
in most places the rocks are not bare; 
chestnut-trees and flowering shrubs 
cling to the crevices, and let their 
branches fall to the margin of the lake. 
Here and there are some small groups 
of houses, but in most places the shores 
show no sign of man's presence, and 
though there are practicable paths, they 
do not strike the eye. At Drano, on 
the N. shore, a torrent descends to the 
lake which, with several short branches, 
drains a recess in the mountain called 
Val Solda. On the opposite shore are 
Osteno and Claino, mentioned in the 
next Rte. At the E. extremity of the 
lake is 

Porlezza, a poor village, but a place 
of some traffic, being on a much-fre¬ 
quented road between the Lake of Como 
and the Canton Tessin. Here the tra¬ 
veller finds many vehicles in readiness 
to take him to Menaggio. For a 
carriage with one horse the charge is 
5 or G fr. ; with 2 horses, 10 fr. An 
active pedestrian may walk in very 
little more time than is taken by a 




ROUTE IT.-VAL INTELVI. 339 


carriage. A gentle ascent of m. 
leads to a plateau, -where the little lake 
of Piano lies on the rt. of the road. 
Thence the -way continues to ascend 
very gently, until it reaches a point 
-where the traveller suddenly gains an 
exquisite view over the finest part of 
the L. of Como. The descent is longer 
and steeper than the ascent on the Por- 
lezza side, and the pedestrian may cut 
off some zigzags on the way down to 
Menaggio. If bound for La Majolica 
or Cadenabbia, he may keep to the rt. 
on entering the village, and at once 
6 trike into the path that leads to 
those places along the lake (see Rte. 
A). Most travellers prefer to take a 
boat, or to await the arrival of the 
steamer. 

[In the ascent from Porlezza the road 
crosses a stone bridge over the Cuccio 
torrent. This issues from Val Ca- 
vargna, and is formed by the confluence 
of many minor streams descending 
from the mountains enclosing the head 
of that valley, most of which exceed 
7,000 ft. in height. The lover of wild 
scenery may well give a day to ex¬ 
ploring this unfrequented glen, ill 
famed in the Middle Ages for its po¬ 
pulation of notorious bandits, the terror 
of their richer neighbours. Several 
small hamlets stand on the slopes 
about the entrance to the valley, where 
the Cuccio has cut for itself a cleft 
200 ft. deep through the limestone 
rock. There is a practicable path on 
either side of the stream. From Ca- 
vargna, the highest village, a path leads 
eastward over an easy pass (5,043') 
into Val Colla, and descends through 
very picturesque scenery by Sonvico 
to Lugano. There is also a mountain 
track due N. from Cavargna, passing 
on the W. side of the l J izzo Menone 
(7,372'), by which the mountaineer 
may reach the head of the \ al Dongo, 
and descend along the rt. side of that 
glen to Dongo (Rte. A). The people 
of Val Cavargna preserve many ancient 
customs, but in modern times they have 
not been accused of any worse crime 
than smuggling, to which their posi¬ 


tion on the frontier of Switzerland 
offers irresistible temptations.] 


Route H. 

ARGEGNO TO OSTENO, BY THE VAL 
INTELVI — ASCENT OF THE MONTE 
GENEROSO. 

About 14 Eng. miles. 

If the way described in the last Rte. 
be the most striking approach to the 
Lake of Como, the road here described, 
through Val Intelvi, is equally to be 
recommended to those going from that 
lake to Lugano. There is a paved 
bridle-track, partly passable for chars; 
but a new carriage-road has been for 
some 3 -ears in course of construction, 
and is probably now open. 

Veil Intelvi is the name given to a 
small district occupying a depression 
in the mountain range dividing the 
L. of Como from the L. of Lugano. 
It is not a single valley, but an aggre¬ 
gate of short combes or dells, drained 
by two streams, of which one falls into 
each lake. The central portion is a 
plateau called Piano di S. Itocco, about 
1,200 ft. above the level of the L. of 
Como. From thence the ground sinks 
rapidly on either side, eastward to Ar- 
gegno, and northward to Osreno on 
the L. of Lugano. Although the dis¬ 
tance by road between those places 
scarcely exceeds 10 m., the district has 
a population of about 11,000 inha¬ 
bitants, and includes no less than 22 
parishes, about half of which lie on the 
central road, and the remainder in the 
short lateral valleys that open on either 
hand. Nowhere but in Italy can a 
small and remote district such as this 
boast of having produced so many men 
distinguished in Art. Each village has 




840 


LEPONTINE ALPS. 


§ 

its roll of worthies extending back to 
the early part of the 14th century. 
The Cathedrals of Milan, Como and 
Monza, theCertosa of Pavia, and many 
great works at Genoa and Venice, were 
either originally designed or their 
building carried out by architects born 
in these mountain villages. Isidoro 
Bianchi, and several others of the later 
Lombard school, make up a respectable 
list of painters; and some names not 
unknown in literature complete the 
catalogue. Until the recent disease in 
the silk-worm affected the crop, the 
district was very productive of silk, 
and is throughout richly cultivated. 

The paved tract mounts from Ar- 
gegno on the L. of Como, noticed in 
Rte. A., and after a rather steep ascent 
of A hr. reaches the level of the valley, 
and soon after the village of Dizasco. 
The tract here bends to the rt., or 
NW., as far as Castiglione, the prin¬ 
cipal village. To the 1. two lateral 
valleys are passed, separated from each 
other by a conical summit which is 
crowned by an ancient chapel, conspi¬ 
cuous in the view to SW. from Tre- 
mezzo. The next place on the way to 
Porlezza is -S'. Fedele, with an ancient 
church of the Lombard period, in 
great part modernised. The way now 
lies over the Piano di S. Rocco; one 
road turns eastward, leading to Lanzo, 
and thence to Campione on the L. of 
Lugano. The way to Porlezza lies 
about due N., and soon reaches a point 
where the traveller commands a beau¬ 
tiful view over the head of that lake, 
and of the steep slopes leading down 
to it. The torrents have excavated 
ravines in the jurassie limestone that 
often make communication between 
adjoining villages a matter of some 
difficulty. Leaving on the 1. the pic¬ 
turesque villages of Pellio Superiore 
and Pellio Inferiore, the road descends 
to Laino, and thence to Osteno on the 
shore of the lake. There is here a 
very singular cleft, cut by the torrent 
that drains the upper part of the valley, 
aud called Orrido di Osteno. It is ac¬ 
cessible from the side of the lake in a 


OO. COMO DISTRICT. 

fisherman’s skiff, and well deserves a 
visit. The steamers plying between 
Lugano and Porlezza call at Osteno, 
and it is intended to connect the last 
named villages by a new road. Near 
the lake shore are seen vast masses of 
tufa, formed by deposition from streams 
laden with carbonate of lime. In some 
places it has been largely quarried. A 
cave with stalactites attracts some visi¬ 
tors. If the traveller should have al¬ 
ready seen the eastern end of the L. of 
Lugano, and should not be impatient to 
reach Lugano by the steamer, which of 
late years has started from Porlezza at 
1.15 p.m., he may well take the road 
from S. Fedele to Lanzo, and thence 
to Campione. This place lies on the 
lake-shore SW. of the Monte Caprino, 
and nearly opposite Lugano, which is 
about 2A m. distant, and is accessible 
by boat in 40 m. The village, with a 
small surrounding tract of land, belongs 
to Italy, and administratively forms 
part of Val Intelvi, though the shore 
on either side appertains to the Can¬ 
ton Tessin. Erratic blocks of crystal¬ 
line rock are seen up to a very con¬ 
siderable height (2,000 ft. ?) above the 
L. of Lugano. The largest assortment 
of these is at a place called A1 Gaggio 
where they have been extensively used 
for building purposes. 

Ascent of the Monte Generoso( 5 , 561 '). 
— The Monte Generoso, also known as 
Monte Calvaggione, is a mass of moun¬ 
tain overlooking the S. part of the L. 
of Lugano, sloping to the N. and NE. 
towards the Val Intelvi, and to SH. 
towards the Val Muggia. Till lately 
comparatively unknown, it is destined 
to increasing celebrity, as travellers 
discover its attractions, and find that 
provision has been made for their com¬ 
fort. The position of the mountain, 
and to some extent its form, have pro¬ 
voked comparisons with the Rigi which 
are somewhat misleading, but none 
who have visited it in moderately fa¬ 
vourable weather can fail to rank the 
view from the summit very high in the 
catalogue of alpine panoramas. Though 
it lies in the very centre of the lake 





ROUTE H.—MONTE GENEROSO. 


?A 1 


district of Lombardy, this mountain 
does not nearly equal tlie Rigi in the 
extent of water that washes its base, 
and forms such an admirable fore¬ 
ground to the more distant views. A 
considerable part of the L. of Lugano 
is visible from the Generoso, and the 
more distant lakes of Varese, Comab- 
bio, and Monate are well within the 
range of view ; but on the E. side there 
is a mere glimpse of the L. of Como, 
opposite the opening of Val Intelvi, 
and in the opposite direction but a 
slight and distant view of the Lago 
Maggiore. The alpine panorama, on 
the other hand, is, in the writer’s opi¬ 
nion, decidedly superior. The Monte 
Rosa chain, though almost as distant 
as the Oberland peaks are from the 
Rigi, rises much more boldly, and pre¬ 
sents a grander outline. The steep 
side of the mountain facing the L. of 
Lugano is bolder and more varied in 
form than its Swiss rival, and it offers 
far more objects of interest to the 
naturalist. Until very lately no con¬ 
trast could be greater than that between 
the two mountains in ail that regards 
the comfort, or convenience of strangers. 

A considerable change has been, 
however, recently made by the opening 
of a large hotel on the S. slope of the 
mountain above Mendrisio, built by 
Dr. Pa sta, an enterprising inhabitant ol 
that place. A large sum mast have 
been expended in the building, not to 
speak of a new and convenient bridle- 
track, and a line of telegraph set up for 
the convenience of visitors. The re¬ 
ports of travellers who have made a 
prolonged si ay at this hotel have been 
generally very favourable, but it is not 
yet widely known. The new hotel is 
rather far from the highest point of the 
mountain —about one hour and a quarter 
on foot or mule-back—but is perhaps on 
that account better fitted for those who 
meditate a prolonged stay. 

The Monte Generoso is accessible 
with more or less ease in most directions, 
but there are four rtes. which deserve 
special mention. In future the most fre¬ 
quented will be the path from Mendrisio. 


1 . By Casasco. The village of Casas- 
co lieson the S. side of Val Intelvi, about 
1 hr. from Castiglione. It contains a 
village inn, where the traveller may pro¬ 
bably lodge better than elsewhere on 
the N. or E. sides of the mountain. 
There is a horse-track, used by men who 
quarry limestone flags and coarse slate, 
leading close to the top of the mountain, 
and the ascent on this side is very easy, 
but decidedly longer than the other ways 
mentioned below. The upper ridges en¬ 
closing Val Intelvi have unfortunately 
been much denuded of -wood, and the 
way lies in great part over bare mountain 
slopes, at first rather N. of W. About 
half-way the track passes a consider¬ 
able group of chalets called Orimento, 
and then turns to the rt., ascending 
gently till it reaches a point where, for 
the first time, a view is gained of part 
of the Lake of Lugano. Thenceforward 
the track bears to the 1., at first S., and 
finally SE., traversing in one place an 
extensive wood or thicket composed 
exclusively of Cytisus alpinus, here 
growing 18 or 20 ft. in height. The 
track follovrs a ridge from which the 
! ground slopes in opposite directions till 
it finally reaches the rather steep rocky 
ridge forming the highest peak. The 
path lies on its W. side until very near 
the top, when the traveller can find his 
own way. The summit is formed of a 
succession of projecting points of rock, 
very steep on the W. side, wdiere they 
show bare escarpments of slate, and 
sloping rapidly in the opposite direc¬ 
tion. The highest is 5,561 ft. above 
the sea, little exceeding the adjoining 
teeth in the serrated ridge, and that 
circumstance somewhat injures the 
effect of the view. This is, how¬ 
ever, of the highest interest, and 
the mountaineer’s knowledge of the 
alpine chain is taxed to identify the 
many summits here seen from an un¬ 
accustomed point of view. Next in 
importance to the Monte Rosa range 
the Bernina Alps are the most con¬ 
spicuous objects, and beside them, but 
nearer to the eye, is seen the fine peak 
of the Monte della Disgrazia, with the 




342 


LEPONTINE ALPS. 


§ 

snowy range extending thence towards 
Chiavenna. A portion of the Graian 
Alps is said to be visible, and in clear 
weather the Monte Viso should be in 
view, but of that peak the writer cannot 
speak. He was unable to identify the 
cathedral of Milan, and M. Weilen- 
mann, who has recounted two ascents 
of this mountain in the first series of 
k Berg- undGletscher-Fahrten,’ was not 
more successful. Among other interest¬ 
ing plants on the highest ridge are 
Cineraria aurantiaca, Pceonia officinalis, 
Hieracium villosum, See. Ligusticum 
Seguieri has been gathered elsewhere 
on the ridge. There are many fossils 
in the jurassic limestone near the 
summit. Starting considerably before 
daylight, and going at a very moderate 
pace, the writer employed fully 4 hrs. 
to reach the summit from Casasco. A 
more direct way might be taken, but 
involving an extra descent and ascent 
of about 1,400 ft., as it would be 
necessary to cross the head of Yal 
Muggia. 

2 . By Mendrisio. The E. side of the 
Monte Generoso overlooks the head of 
Val Muggia, whose torrent flows about 
due S., till after approaching near to 
Mendrisio and Balerna, on the road from 
Lugano to Como (Rte. C), the stream 
turns to theE. and falls into the L. of Co¬ 
mo near Cernobbio. A traveller whose 
sole object is to reach the summit of the 
mountain may go by the old track, pass¬ 
ing by Muggio and Scudelatte, but the 
great majority will choose the track lead¬ 
ing to Dr. Pastas new hotel. This passes 
by the hamlet of Salorino, and the soli¬ 
tary traveller will be guided by the tele¬ 
graph poles which lead to the house. The 
path goes partly amidst chestnut, and 
higher up passes through a beech wood. 
Above the hotel the way is rather 
steeper and offers little or no shade, so 
it is well to choose the early morning 
or the late afternoon for the walk. 

3. By Bovio. As already mentioned, 
the Monte Generoso shows its boldest 
front to the L. of Lugano, and the 
ascent on that side is much steeper. 
The highest village, about 1 hr. from 


33 . COi'IO DISTRICT. 

Maroggia, or 1| hr. from Bissone, is 
called Bovio. The accommodation 
there is of the poorest description, and 
it would probably be a better plan to 
seek accommodation at either of the 
villages just named, and start at an 
earlier hour in the morning. In the 
writer's opinion, it is a preferable pla 
to make the descent by this side, w ith 
the Monte Rosa and a part of the chain 
of the Pennine Alps in view during 
the first half of the way down to the 
L. of Lugano. There are several 
rough tracks that mount the steep W. 
face of the mountain, but most of these 
have been made by the men who ex¬ 
tract rough slates from the upper ridge. 
There are no regular quarries, and the 
men who follow this trade attack the 
face of the cliffs, now at one point, now 
at another, every now and then detach¬ 
ing masses of rock that are left to find 
their own way to the bottom. There 
is therefore some positive risk to a 
stranger attempting to climb this face 
of the mountain, and it is expedient to 
take a local guide whether for the 
ascent or descent. 

4. By Melarw. Melano is a village 
lying a little farther S. than Rovio, and 
the way thence may be recommended 
to persons approaching the mountain 
from the side of Lugano who wish for 
an easier ascent than that from Rovio, 
and would keep clear of the risk of 
falling rocks. 




ROUTE I.-VARESE. 


343 


Route I. 

LAVENO TO COMO, BY VARESE. 

13A m. to Varese ; 15 m. thence to Como. 

This road skirts the base of the moun¬ 
tain range described in the preceding 
Rtes., and is scarcely within the scope 
of this work; hut it lies through very 
beautiful scenery, and is of peculiar 
interest to geologists, not only on ac¬ 
count of the relations of the stratified 
rocks (which have been much discussed 
by Lombard geologists), but also for 
the extensive remains of former glacial 
action seen throughout a great part of 
the space between the Lago Maggiore 
and that of Como. The low hills en¬ 
closing the Lakes of Varese, Comabbio, 
and Monate appear to be in great part, 
if not exclusively, moraines, deposited 
by the great glacier of the Tessin that 
once occupied the bed of the Lago 
Maggiore ; and the above-named shal¬ 
low lakes are apparently due to the 
ancient moraines, which retain the 
streams that would otherwise find their 
way directly to the Tessin or the Po. 

Laveno (Inns: Posta, pretty good ; 
Moro) is noticed in § 32, Rte. A. It 
lies at the base of the Sasso di Ferro 
(3,556'), which commands a noble 
view over the greater part of the Lago 
Maggiore, but limited to the NE. by 
the slightly higher summit of the 
Monte Nudo (3,635'). The road from 
Laveno ascends about 3 m. through the 
■wooded valley of the Boesio, and then 
turns SSE., leaving to the 1. branch a 
road leading through very pleasant 
scenery to Ponte Tresa (lite. G), on 
the way from Luino to Lugano. The 
latter town is by this road about 22 m. 
from Laveno. 

The road to Varese traverses a still 
more beautiful country, and in about 
7 m. reaches Gavirate, on the NW. 
shore of the Lake of Varese. This is 
a fine sheet of water, 5j m. long and 
2 m. in breadth, 842 ft. above the sea, 
or 196 ft. above the level of the Lago 
Maggiore. It is very shallow, nowhere 
exceeding 85 ft. in depth. Its shores , 


are encompassed by gently sloping 
and richly cultivated hills, on which 
stand many fine villas, while to the N. 
rises the bolder ridge of the Monte 
Campo dei Fiori (4,085'). This moun¬ 
tain commands one of the finest views 
in the neighbourhood, and is said to be 
particularly interesting to the geologist 
as giving the best general survey of the 
district which has been the seat of the 
intrusion of the porphyries and other 
igneous rocks in the neighbourhood 
of Lugano. In 1863 an important 
discovery was made in the Lake of Va¬ 
rese, when the distinguished geologists 
MM. Desor and Stoppani found here 
the remains of ancient lake-dwellings, 
with flint weapons, &c., similar to those 
of the Swiss lakes which have excited 
so much interest of late years. A 
fisherman named Giuseppe Molinari, of 
Bardello, near Gavirate, who accom¬ 
panied the first explorers, is ready to 
take other visitors to the spots, six in 
number, where the piles and other 
objects were found by them. The best 
prospect of successful exploration is at 
a season when the waters are low. 

The road from Gavirate mounts over 
the hills on the N. side of the lake. 
At Luinate it commands a beautiful 
view, extending to the smaller lakes ot 
Comabbio and Monate, and soon aftei 
descends to Varese (Inns : Stella ; 
Angelo: neither is well spoken of), a 
handsome country town, the centre ot 
a district where many of the wealthy 
Milanese have villas to which they 
resort in summer and autumn. There 
is not much to interest sight-seers in 
the town, and the main object of 
curiosity is the Sacro Monte, also called 
La Madonna del Monte. This stands 
on a hill NW. of the town, 2,845 It. 
above the sea. Light carriages ply to 
Robarello, about 2j m. from Varese, 
and in that village ponies—charge 
1|- fr.—or portantini —charge 4 fr.— 
may be engaged for the ascent. Those 
who have not seen the Sacro Monte 
of Varallo may very well visit this 
sanctuary, though the works of art 
here arc less interesting; the view is 





314 


LEPONTINE ALPS. 


§ 33. COMO DISTRICT. 


admirable, but less extensive than from 
the Monte Cumpo dei Fiori. There are 
several Inns near the sanctuary for the 
accommodation of pilgrims and visitors. 

The road from Varese to Como is 
rather hilly, but passes through a fine 
country. In approaching the latter 
town the road passes close to the rly. 
station at Camerlata, so that travellers 
bound for Milan do not enter Como. 


Route K. 

BELLAGGIO TO ERBA, BY VAL ASSINA. 

5| leagues = 16| Eng. miles. 

In the preceding Rtes. the district 
between the Lake of Como and the 
Lago Maggiore has been pretty fully 
described, but no notice has been taken 
of the triangular space enclosed be¬ 
tween the two southern branches of 
the L. of Como. The mountains here 
are of moderate elevation, but one of 
them—the Monte San Primo (5,236')— 
exceeding 5,000 ft. in height; but the 
district abounds in beautiful scenery, 
and the higher points command views 
either of the severe and silent L. of 
Lecco, or the animated and smiling 
shores of the Como branch of the 
lake. The S. slopes of these mountains 
that sink in undulating hills into the 
plain of Lombardy form the district of 
Brianza , conspicuous even in this fer¬ 
tile region for its abundant produce of 
silk, as well as the ordinary crops of 
the country. It is thickly set with 
villas and picturesquely-situated vil¬ 
lages, and no district gives a fuller idea 
of the wealth that has been poured by 
the hand of Nature on this garden of 
Europe. 

A pretty good road leads from Bel- 


laggio through the mountain district 
between the two lakes. One of the 
most enjoyable excursions for persons 
remaining at that place is to follow that 
road, on foot or in a carriage, and then 
descend to Onno on the L. of Lecco, 
returning thence to Bellaggio by boat. 
The ascent from Bellaggio is most in¬ 
teresting, commanding, at intervals, 
charming views of the lake. After 
passing the village of Civenna the 
traveller unexpectedly reaches the 
summit level, and soon begins to de¬ 
scend towards the S. He may visit 
near Magreylio a small cave with an 
ebbing and flowing spring, remarkable 
for the short interval between its 
pulsations. The waters increase for 
3 min., and subside again during the 
succeeding 5 min. This spring is 
regarded as the source of the JLambro , a 
stream flowing southward towards the 
plain of Lombardy. So long as it 
remains enclosed between the higher 
mountains, the valley is called Val 
Assina. It is supposed that this was 
chosen as a retreat by the Celtic tribes 
who occupied the lower country before 
the Romans established themselves 
there; and many of the names of places 
are traced to a Celtic origin. To a 
later period belong the castles, now in 
ruins, erected for defence aarainst the 
successive invasions of barbarians from 
the North. From a point named Ghis- 
allo, above Magreglio, nearly the whole 
length of the lake from Domaso to the 
bridge at Lecco is seen at once. Near 
Barni, the next village, is a beech tree 
of extraordinary dimensions, supposed 
to be of vast antiquity. The upper 
part of Val Assina is wild and almost 
alpine in character. The Lambro flows 
between steep rocks, and in two places 
is lost to view between the huge masses 
that have fallen together, leaving be¬ 
tween them a passage for the stream. 
About 10 m. from Bellaggio is 
Asso, a charmingly-situated village 
with a country Inn, which is (or was) 
nicely kept. The late King of Saxony 
and other botanists have made it their 
head - quarters while exploring the 




ROUTE L.-COMO TO LECCO. 


floral wealth of the neighbourhood. 
The Como di Canzo (4,508') is especi¬ 
ally interesting for its rare plants, 
which include a large number, but not 
all, of the species of the Grigna and 
Campione, enumerated in § 38, Rte. 
E. While those summits are some¬ 
what difficult of access, and involve a 
long and fatiguing day’s walk, the 
Gorno di Canzo is comparatively easy 
of access from this side, but at least 
two days should be given for its 
thorough exploration. The summit 
commands an admirable view. A path 
leads NE. from Asso to Yalbrona, and 
amidst exquisite scenery descends to 
the margin of the Lecco branch of the 
lake. To reach Onno it is necessary 
to bear to the 1. in descending. Another 
path mounts WNW. from Asso to the 
Piano di Tivano, a plateau 3,800 ft. 
above the sea-level, whence there is a 
steep path to Nesso or Careno (Rte. A). 
A traveller sleeping at Asso might 
make a delightful excursion, taking 
the plateau on his way to the summit 
of the Monte San Primo (5,23G'), and 
descending thence to Bellaggio. A 
slight ascent of § m. leads from Asso 
to 

Canzo, now the principal place in 
the valley. There are many villas 
close at hand, and in the autumn a 
theatre and several caft's are the ren¬ 
dezvous of the gay society of the 
neighbourhood. The pedestrian may 
take a path by Ponte, chiefly along the 
banks of the Lambro, and by a detour 
visit the Buca del Piombo (Rte. L), 
on his way to Erba. The post-road 
keeps about due S., passing the little 
narrow Logo di Segrino, and then issues 
from a rocky defile into the rich and 
luxuriant scenery of the Brianza, and 
joins the high road from Como to Lecco 
(Rte. L) about J m. E. of Erba. 


Route L. 

COMO TO LECCO, BY ERBA. 

About 18 m. post-road. 

Of the many charming excursions 
that may be made through the hilly 
region at the S. base of the Alpine 
chain, it would be hard to name any 
more agreeable than this. Since the 
opening of the rly. from Lecco to Ber¬ 
gamo, it involves little or no loss of 
time for travellers going eastward from 
ther L. of Como, and not desiring to 
enter Milan at the season when the 
heat in that city is oppressive. The 
diligence takes 3 hrs. between Como 
and Lecco, but most travellers will 
prefer to hire a vehicle. The road 
from Como mounts ESE., first on the 
rt., then on the 1. bank of a torrent that 
makes half the circuit of the city. 
Looking back during the ascent are 
some charming points of view, but be¬ 
fore long the road lies altogether amidst 
the wooded or richly cultivated hills of 
the Brianza. The district is remark¬ 
able for the numerous small lakes that 
lie in depressions amidst the hills. 
Those of Montorfano and Alserio lie 
to the rt. of, and at some distance from, 
the road. After passing Villa Albese 
the road reaches the summit of a low 
ridge, and suddenly gains an exquisite 
view over the plateau called Piano 
d'Erba, with the lakes of Alserio, Pu- 
siano, and Annone, backed by the fine 
ridge of the Resegone, and the nearer 
mountains of Canzo. A slight descent 
leads in 2 m. to 

Erba, the chief place of the Brianza 
district, with a fair Inn. The form of 
the plain surrounding this little town, 
and the existence of peat in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of the existing lakes, has led 
to the belief that the -whole tract occu¬ 
pies the site of a partially filled up lake, 
mentioned by Pliny under the name 
Eupili. This opinion seems to require 
more evidence than has yet been pro¬ 
duced in its behalf. The chief object 
of interest to strangers near Erba is the 
Buca del Piombo , a remarkable cavern 



346 


LEOPONTINE ALPS. § 33. COMO DISTRICT. 


on the slope of the mountain, about 3 
m. N. of the town. It is of unusually 
large dimensions, and the first portion 
is so straight and lofty that the daylight 
is still sensible at 600 ft. from the en¬ 
trance. This is guarded by four thick 
walls, one within the other, showing 
that at some early period the place was 
used for a place of refuge or defence. 
In the interior of the cave are some 
deep holes filled with water. 

The road from Erba to Lecco passes 
close to Incino , which is shown bv 
coins and inscriptions found them to 
occupy the site of Forum Licinii, a 
place which, at a still earlier period, 
according to Pliny, was one of the 
chief towns of the Celtic Orobii, the 
other two towns of the tribe being 
Como and Bergamo. After meeting 


the road from Bellaggio, described in 
the last Rte.. and crossing the Lambro, 
the road reaches the shore of tne Lago 
di Pusiano, a lake 2^ m. long and 
1 m. broad, with a pretty island planted 
with cypresses. About 2 m. farther, 
but at a lower level, is the Lago d'An- 
none , rather larger than the Lake of 
Pusiano, but nearly divided into two 
by a projecting tongue of land. The 
road follows the course of a little stream 
by which the lake drains itself into the 
Lake of Como near Lecco, and reaches 
the shore at Malgrate , nearly opposite 
Lecco (Rte. B). Very near the road is 
a place called Azzarola, where large 
numbers of fossils belonging to the so- 
called infra-lias have been found by 
M. Stoppani. 



347 


CHAPTER X. 

RHiETIAN ALPS. 


Section 34. 

PRJETTIGAU DISTRICT. 

Route A— Bregenz to Landeck, by Feld- 

kirch and the Arlberg Pass 350 
Route B —Bludenz to Landeck, by Monta- 

fun and the Paznaunthal . 352 
Route C — Feldkirch to Maienfeld . . 354 

Route D — Maienfeld to Siis, by the Praet- 

tigau and the Vereina Pass 355 
Route E — Glacier Passes from Klosters 
to Lavin, or Guarda—Ascent 
of Piz Linard . . . 353 

Route F — Passes from the Valley of the 

111 to the Prasttigau . . 360 

Route G — Pattenen in Montafun to 
Guarda, by the Fermunt 

Pass.362 

Route H — Passes Irom the Paznaunthal 

to the Engadine . . . 362 

Section 35. 

ALBULA DISTRICT. 

Route A — Coireto Samaden, by the Julier 

Pass.365 

Route B — Thusis to Tiefenkasten . . 360 

Route C — Coire to Samaden, by the 

Albula Pass .... 370 
Route D — Lenz to Klosters, by Davos . 372 
Route E — Coire to Davos am Platz, by 

the Strela Pass . . . 373 

Route F —Davos am Platz to Siis, by the 

Fluela Pass .... 375 
Route G — Davos am Platz to Scanfs, by 
the Scaletta Pass—Ascent 
of the Sehwarzhorn . . 376 

Route H — Davos am Platz to Scanfs, by 

the Sertig Pass . . . 378 

Route I — Bivio to Casaccia, by the 

Septimer Pass . . . 378 

Route K — Andeer to Casaccia, by the 

Aversthal .... 379 
Route L — Andeer to Chiavenua, by the 

Aversthal .... 382 

Route M — Andeer to Campo Dolcino, by 

the Aversthal . . . 383 

Section 36. 

BERNINA DISTRICT. 

Route A — Chiavenna to Nauders, by the 


Val Bregaglia and Enga¬ 
dine .385 

Route B — Samaden to Pontresina—Ex¬ 
cursions from Pontresina . 393 
Route C—Bevers to St. Moritz, by Val 

Bever.398 

Route D — Tour of the Bernina—Sella 

Pass.398 

Route E — Colico to Bormio, by the Val 

Tellina.400 

Route F —Morbegno to the Val Brega¬ 
glia, by Val Masino—Ascent 
of Monte della Disgrazia . 40a 

Route G — Casaccia to Sondrio, by the 

Muretto Pass . . . 409 

Route H — Pontresina to Chiesa in Val 
Malenco, by the Capiits- 
chin and Scerscen Passes . 409 
Route I — Chiesa to Poschiavo, by the 

Passo di Canciano . .411 

Route K— Samaden to Tirano, by the 

Bernina Pass . . . 412 

Route L — Pontresina to Bormio . . 415 

Route M — Bormio to the Engadine, by 

ValLivigno. . . . 417 

Section 37. 

ORTERLER DISTRICT. 

Route A — Bormio to Mals—Pass of the 
stelvio—Ascent of the Or- 
teler Spitze .... 421 
Route B — Bormio to Trento, by Val 

Furva and Val di Sole . 425 
Route C — Santa Catarina to Latsch, by 

the Passo Cevedale . . 430 

Route D — Glacier Passes from Sta. Cata¬ 
rina to Prad .... 432 
Route E — Laas to Sulden, by the Laaser- 

thal.434 

Route F — Mali* to Trafoi, by the Sul- 

denthal.435 

Route G — Rabbi to Meran, by the Ulten- 

thal. 438 

Route H — Male to St. Pankraz in the 

Ulthemhal .... 440 
Route I — Cles to Meran or Botzen . 44 1 
Route K — Bormio to Santa Maria . . 442 

Route L— Zernetz to Mals, by the Ofen 

Pass and Val Mustair . . 444 

Route M — Schuls ro Mals, by Val Scarla . 445 
Route N — Remus to Mals, by Val 

d’Uina.. 


The main divisions of the Alps were 
in early times established in a vague 
and general manner, no need being 


felt for fixing accurate limits between 
them, and the knowledge of their to¬ 
pography being too limited to enable 






•348 


CHAPTER X.-RH.ETIAX ALPS. 


geographers to do so. Modern writers, ! 
in attempting to define such limits, 
have not been guided by the same cri¬ 
teria, and have consequently arrived at 
different results. In the present work, 
the effort has been made to base a ge¬ 
neral arrangement mainly upon the 
natural relations of the mountain 
groups and the principal valleys, the 
author being well aware that such an 
arrangement cannot always be brought 
into accordance with those suggested 
to other writers by ancient or modern 
political boundaries, or by the ethno¬ 
graphic relations of the population, or 
by purely geological considerations. 

The most remarkable feature in the 
general orography of the Alps is the 
great breach in the continuity of the 
chain which is marked by the valley of 
the Adige. A traveller following that 
river from Verona to Botzen, where its 
eastern branch—the Eisack—joins the 
main stream, and then mounting gra¬ 
dually along the latter, arrives at a 
chain of small lakes forming the natu¬ 
ral source of the river, the highest and 
most northerly of which is less than 
5 m. from the main channel of the Inn. 
From the same plateau, and separated 
by no perceptible height of land, a 
stream descends to the Inn, at the 
point where that river enters the defile 
of Finstermiinz. It is a singular fact, 
that the Eisack, or eastern branch of 
the Adige, should be connected with 
the valley of the Inn by another de¬ 
pression, a few feet deeper than that of 
the lakes of the Adige, giving passage 
to the Brenner road. Everywhere else 
in the circuit extending from the Me¬ 
diterranean to the Adriatic, the Italian 
peninsula is girdled by one or more 
alpine ranges, and is accessible only by 
passes that oppose a more or less serious 
barrier to free communication ; but, as 
has been seen, the main valley of the 
Tyrol commands access to the S. side 
of the Alps by two passages that may 
best be described as breaks in the con¬ 
tinuity of the alpine chain. 

This is not the place to point out the 
vast results that have ensued from this 


peculiarity in the form of the Alps. It 
is not too much to say, that the desti¬ 
nies of all Europe, and of Italy in par¬ 
ticular, have been for the last 1,500 
years, and are still at the present time, 
profoundly influenced by the conditions 
here pointed out. 

Although the Brenner (4,588') be 
somewhat the lower of the two open¬ 
ings between the Inn and the Adige, 
it has more the character of a pass 
than that connecting the main branch 
of the Adige with the Inn, which is 
4,596 ft. above the sea. This must be 
considered the natural limit towards 
the E. of the Rhaetian Alps, and it 
seems impossible to follow the example 
of those geographers who include 
under that designation the (Etzthal 
Alps and Stubaver Ferner, lying be¬ 
tween the sources of the Adige and 
the Eisack. Neither does it appear 
desirable to include as a portion of the 
Rhaetian chain the ranges S. of the 
Adda and the Tonale Pass, described 
in the next chapter under the designa¬ 
tion of Lombard Alps. These are 
separated for exactly the same reasons 
that determine the distinction generally 
admitted between the Graian and the 
Pennine Alps, or that between the 
Cottian chain and the Alps of Dau- 
phine. 

Restricted to their natural orogra¬ 
phic limits, the Rhaetian Alps to be 
described in the present chapter, are 
bounded on the W. by the valley of the 
Rhine and the Spltigen road from Feld- 
kirch to Colico; to the S. by the Yal 
Tellina, the road of the Tonale, and the 
valleys of Sole and Non, from Colico to 
San Michele near Trent; to the E. by the 
Adige from San Michele to its source, 
and then by the Finstermiinz road 
along the Inn to Landeck ; and finally 
the northern limit is marked by the 
road of the Vorarlberg from Landeck 
toFeldkirch. Thus limited, the Rhae¬ 
tian Alps evidently belong to the same 
great system as the Pennine and Ber¬ 
nese chains. They are traversed by a 
great valley, nearly parallel to those of 
the Rhone and Vorder Rhein, through 




340 


5 34 . R1LETTIGAU DISTRICT. 


which theMera descends to Chiavenna; 
and the far greater stream of the Inn, 
the principal source of the Danube, 
flows in a nearly direct course from 
the Maloya Pass to Prutz in the Tyrol. 
On the N. side of this main valley a 
continuous range extends from the 
Pizzo Stella above Chiavenna to the 
Schonjbchlberg by Prutz. On the S. side 
of the main valley lie two considerable 
groups that include the highest peaks 
of the Rhaetian Alps, but do not form 
a well defined chain. Of these the 
best known to English travellers is the 
group of the Bernina Alps (§ 36), 
which has of late attracted many 
visitors. The Orteler group, still more 
attractive in the writer’s opinion, 
though now pretty fully explored, was 
almost unknown a few years ago ; and 
the ranges N. of the Engadine have 
been, until very lately, completely 
neglected by our countrymen. One 
reason that has withheld travellers 
from many of the districts here re¬ 
ferred to, is the fact that they are 
divided between different States. With 
the important exception of the En¬ 
gadine, all the valleys running east¬ 
ward from these Alps belong to Aus¬ 
tria, to which state also appertains the 
valley of the Ill, opening into the Rhine 
valley at Feldkirch. The Adda and 
its tributaries, with the exception of the 
Swiss valley of Poschiavo, has been 
uniied since 1859 to the kingdom of 
Italy. The remainder of the territory 
here defined, saving the petty prin¬ 
cipality of Lichtenstein, and other still 
more trifling exceptions, forms part of 
the Canton Orisons. The languages 
spoken within these limits are German, 
Iiomantsch, and Italian ; but as a gene¬ 
ral rule, a stranger may always find 
some one able to speak either German 
or Italian. 


SECTION 34. 

PR.ETTIGAU DISTRICT. 

As stated in the introduction to this 
chapter, the main valley of the Rhse- 
tian Alps is guarded on the N. side by 
a continuous range, extending from the 
neighbourhood of Chiavenna to that of 
Landeck in the Tyrol, a distance rather 
exceeding 80 m. in a direct line. From 
this range, most of whose summits lie 
between 10,000 and 11,000 ft., a con¬ 
siderable secondary ridge extends at 
right angles, nearly 40 m. towards the 
NW., forming the frontier between the 
Austrian province of Vorarlberg and 
the Grisons valley of Prsettigau. The 
NW. extremity of the secondary ridge 
above mentioned is known as the 
Rhcetikon. The group of peaks passing 
under this collective name culminates 
in the Scesa Plana (9,738'). The 
higher group, lying at the junction of 
the NW. range with the main range 
extending NE. into the Tyrol, is dis¬ 
tinguished as that of the Fermunt, or 
Silvretta Alps. The most natural 
division of the great mass of alps lying 
between the Inn, the Rhine, and the 
Vorarlberg, is that marked by the 
Prsettigau valley and the Vereina Pass 
connecting it with Siis in the Enga¬ 
dine. It is the portion lying N. and 
E. of that boundary that is included 
in the present section under the name 
Prsettigau District. Few portions of 
the Alps are less known to strangers, 
and the writer is forced to confess his 
want of personal acquaintance with it. 
The name chosen to distinguish it is 
not perhaps very appropriate, but has 
been selected as that least strange to 
English readers. The highest summit 
of this district is the Piz Linard 
(11,208'), which, as well as the Muttler 
and several others of this group, has 
been ascended by that indefatigable 
mountaineer, M. AVeilenmann; and in 
the last few years, members of the 
Swiss Alpine Club have done much to 
complete its exploration. 





3o0 RELETIAN ALPS. § 34. PR/ETTIGAU DISTRICT. 


The road of the Vorarlberg, forming 
the boundary between the Rhsetian and 
the Bavarian Alps, is described in this 
section, but it has appeared to be more 
convenient to include the description 
of the entire Engadine, or Upper Valley 
of the Inn, in § 36, although a portion 
of that valley forms the S. boundary of 
the district here described. 

A mountaineer intending to enter 
the Austrian territory will be careful 
to have his passport in due order; but 
as a general rule English travellers 
have no reason to complain of needless 
annoyance from Austrian officials. 


Route A. 

BREGENZ TO LANDECK, BY FELDKIRCH 
AND THE ARLBERG PASS. 



Austrian 

Eng. 


miles 

miles 

Hohenembs 

• 2i 

Ilf 

Feldkirch . . 

. 2 

94 

Nenzing 

. 14 

7 

Bludenz . 

4 

7 

Dalaas . 

. 2 

94 

Stuben 

. 2 

94 

St. Anton . 

2 

94 

Fliersch 

. 2 

94 

Landeck . 

2 

94 


Tri 

82§ 


The road here described lies alto¬ 
gether in Austrian territory. It affords 
a very direct and convenient route for 
persons going from England into the 
Tyrol; but it very rarely happens that 
any traveller turns aside from the high 
road to explore the fine glacier scenery 
that is within easy reach of the lateral 
valleys of Montafun andPaznaun,lying 
S. of the main road. There is regular 
diligence communication between Bre- 
genz and Innsbruck, and this may be 
used by travellers about to visit the E. 
of Switzerland, and intending after¬ 
wards to enter Austria or Bavaria, 
who may pass their heavy luggage at 
Bregenz, and then forward it to Inns- i 
bruck, instead of incurring the expense ; 


and annoyance of carrying it with them 
over Alpine passes. 

Bregenz (Inns : CEsterreichischer 
Hof, good; Goldener Adler, or Post: 
Schwarzer Adler; Krone) is a pret¬ 
tily situated little town at the E. end 
of the Lake of Constance, more fully 
noticed in § 41. The road to Feld- 
kirch has been little frequented by 
strangers since the opening of the rail¬ 
way from Rorschach to Coire, as Feld- 
kirch may be reached from several of 
the stations on that line, and there is 
a post carriage daily from the Haag 
station (§ 28). A traveller finding him¬ 
self in Bregenz will not, however, save 
time by the detour to Rorschach, and 
will do better to follow the post road 
by Hohenembs to 

Feldkirch (Inns: Post; Engel Ga¬ 
briel, good), 1,462 ft. above the sea. 
Here the///descends from ESE. to join 
the Rhine through a broad valley whose 
lower and more level portion, about 
15 m. in length, is called Wallgau. 
Above Bludenz it divides into twp 
branches, of which the S. branch, called 
Montafun, running parallel to the 
Rhastikon range, is described in Rte. 
B ; the other branch, or Klosterthal, is 
followed by the high road to Landeck. 
This being the only direct carriage 
road from N. Switzerland into the 
Tyrol, is a channel of considerable 
commercial intercourse. The people 
along the main road, from frequent in¬ 
tercourse with their neighbours, have 
lost much of the characteristic sim¬ 
plicity of the population of the German 
Alps, and have acquired something of 
the hard, business-like tone of the Swiss. 

The high road is carried for a con¬ 
siderable distance along the 1. bank of 
the Ill. At Frastenz, about 2 m. from 
Feldkirch, it passes the opening of the 
Sumina Thai, a narrow glen running 
parallel to the Rhine. The pedestrian 
bound for Mayenfeld may avoid the 
hot valley of the Rhine bv taking that 
glen, on his way from Feldkirch ; or 
he may reach the lower part of the 
j Prsettigau at Seewis, above Griisch. 

| See Rte. F. With the latter object in 









ROUTE A.—STAN2EKTHAL. 351 


view, it is probably a better plan to 
follow the road through the Wallgau 
to Nenzing, on the torrent issuing from 
the Gampertlionthal, through which a 
little-used path leads directly to Seewis. 
The Fundelhorn (7,871'), rising on the 
E. side of the last-mentioned valley, is 
conspicuous from the high road. On 
the N. side of the Ill is seen the open¬ 
ing of a considerable lateral valley, 
called Wcdserthal , through which a path 
leads to the head of the Bregenzer Ach 
(§ 41 ). 

Before reaching Niiziders, the road 
crosses to the rt. bank of the Ill, and 
gains a view of the higher peaks of 
the Rhaetikon, with the extensive snow- 
fields of the Brandner Ferner. About 
2 m. from the bridge is the little town 
and post station of 

Bludenz (Inns : Post; Kreuz), finely 
situated at 1,758 ft., close to the head 
of the Wallgau, where this is formed 
by the junction of the Montafun valley 
(Rte. B) with the Klosterthal. There 
is a fine view from the church, and 
better still from the castle of Sternbach 
above the town. [The mountaineer 
should make the ascent of the Sresa 
Plana (9,738')—usually called on this 
side Wetterspitze—the highest summit 
of the Rhsetikon Alps. Anton Neier 
and Ferd. Heine are named as guides— 
pay 6 fl. or 10 fl. descending to Seewis 
(Rte. F). The way lies through the 
Brandnerthal, on the W. side of the 
Alvier torrent which drains that valley. 
The highest hamlet, named Brand, is 
attained in 3 hrs. from Bludenz. The 
way then lies on the opposite side of 
the valley, about due S., to a fine lake 
called LUner See (4,988'), surrounded 
by precipitous crags. Above it a com¬ 
fortable hut opened by the German 
Alpine Club affords night-quarters to 
travellers. The ascent of the peak in¬ 
volves a steep scramble over rocks, and 
the passage of some erevassed glacier. 
The view must be very extensive.] 
The road to Landeck mounts nearly 
due E. from near Bludenz, through the 
Klosterthal, a narrow and wild glen 
ruuning parallel *o the line of junction 


between the Jura limestone and the 
trias. 

The first post-station is Dalaas, with 
a good inn at the Post. The next is 
Stuben (Inn: Post), the highest village 
(4,324'), E. of which rises the ridge of 
the Arlbevg Pass leading to Landeck, 
and forming the boundary between 
Tyrol and the province which, from 
the name of its frontier ridge, has 
derived the name Vorarlberg. The 
pass lies between the Kalteberg (9,505') 
to S W., and the Schindler Spitze to NE. 
The road is one of the most ancient 
of alpine highways, having been 
made under the Emperor Joseph II. 
in 1787 ; but it has since been in great 
part reconstructed. The crest of the 
Arlberg Pass (5.902') is reached in 
little more than 1 hr. from Stuben. A 
short way below the summit on the 
Tyrol side are the Inn and Church of 
St. Cristoph, originally established in 
the fourteenth century as a refuge for 
travellers, below which the road de¬ 
scends into the Stanzerthal, watered by 
a stream named Rosanna, whose prin¬ 
cipal source is in the Ferwallthal, a 
glen communicating by high passes on 
the one hand with Montafun, on the 
other with the Paznaunthal. The road 
descends rather rapidly to the post 
station at St. Anton (Inn: Post, tole¬ 
rable), and thenceforward keeps to the 
1. bank of the Rosanna. Several vil¬ 
lages are passed, including the post 
station of Fliersch (3,770'). A few 
miles lower down is the junction of the 
Rosanna with the Trisanna, issuing 
from the Paznaunthal, overlooked by 
tbe picturesque castle of Wiesbergen. 
The scenery becomes softer, and the 
climate sensibly hotter, as the road ap¬ 
proaches the valley of the Inn, which 
is entered at 

Landeck (Tnns: Schwarzer Adler; 
Post, not bad, but foul smells; Goi- 
dener Adler), picturesquely situated 
on the rt. bank of the Inn, at 2,640 ft. 
above the sea. One main road follows 
the river to Innsbruck, while another 
mounts along the stream to the defile 
of Fin sterna tin z, and leads either to the 







352 


RHiETlAN ALPS. § 34. PEiETTIGAU DISTRICT. 


Engadine (§ 36), or to the valley of 
the Adige (§ 48). For further infor¬ 
mation as to the neighbourhood of 
Landeck, see Alpine Guide, Part III. 


Route B. 

BLUDENZ TO LANDECK, BY MONTAFUN 
AND THE PAZNAUNTHAL. 


Schruns 

Hrs.’ 

walking 

3 

English 

miles 

y 

St. Gallenkirch . 

2 

6 

Pattenen 

• 3i 

. 5 

101 

Galthiir . . 

121 

Ischgl . 

3 

8 

Kappel. 

2 

6 

Landeck . 

. 4 

12 



64 


There is a rough char-road from 
Bludenz to Schruns ; the remainder of 
the way is practicable on horseback. 

The pedestrian going from Feldkirch 
to Landeck may choose a course in 
every way more interesting, and hut 
little longer than the high road de¬ 
scribed in the lastRte..by following 
the main branch of the 111 through the 
highland valley called Montafun , and 
descending into the Tyrol by the Paz- 
naunthal. Besides the attractions of 
fine scenery in both valleys, the stranger 
will be interested by the primitive 
manners and costume of the people, 
though the severity of the climate and 
the small resources of the soil drive 
many of the young men to wander 
abroad in search of a livelihood, with 
the hope of returning in after-life to 
their native valleys. The entrance to 
Montafun is through a very grand 
rocky defile opening near the ancient 
convent of St. Peter, about 2 m. from 
Bludenz. At li hr. from that town is 
the hamlet and church of St. Anton, 
standing on or near the site of a large 
village or town traditionally reported 
to have been overwhelmed by a berg- 
fall. At Vadans, 4 hr. farther, is the 
opening of the Rellsthal. Through that 
glen is an easier and shorter way to 


1 the Liiner See and the Scesa Plana 
! than that from Bludenz. but very few 
j strangers have approached the moun- 
j tain from this side. For the Schwei- 
zerthor see Rte. F. A green and level 
reach of the valley, about 3 m. in length, 
leads to 

Schruns (Inn: Traube, very fair, the 
best on this route: Lowe), 2,084 ft. 
above the sea. Here the Silbertlial , 
also called Litzthal, opens to the E., 
penetrating deeply into the mountain 
ranges that separate the Klosterthal 
from Montafun. On the opposite side 
of the Ill, the Gauerthal, more interest¬ 
ing to mountaineers, leads SW. to the 
Drusentlior (Rte. F); and a few hun¬ 
dred yards farther E. the Gampadel 
Tobel gives a passage to another tor¬ 
rent descending from the Rhsetikon 
range, and leading to two passes into 
the Praettigau. 

The middle portion of the Montafun 
is remarkable for the extensive culti¬ 
vation of cherries, and large quantities 
of kirchwasser are made here. A walk 
of 2 hrs., chiefly along the 1. bank of 
the Ill, leads from Schruns to St. Gal- 
lenkirch (2,394'), opposite the opening 
of the Gargellenthal, leading by two 
rough passes to the Praettigau (Rte. F). 
Near the village a stream descending 
from NW. makes a fine cascade. The 
scenery of the head of the valley is 
very fine. Green meadows and orchards 
are enclosed between high and bold 
mountains, and from time to time the 
traveller gains glimpses of the great gla¬ 
ciers of the Silvretta Alps. At Gaschurn 
(‘2,769', Schmidt’—probably higher), 
the Gannerathal opens due S., and leads 
to Klosters by the Garneira Joch (Rte. 
F). The last village, about 1 hr. above 
Gaschurn, is Pattenen ( 3,204'?). This 
is the proper head of the Montafun 
valley, which has kept a direct upward 
course to SE. from Bludenz. Several 
torrents join their waters above the 
village : the most considerable of these, 
being fed by the extensive glaciers on 
the N. side of the Silvretta group, flows 
due N. through the Fermuntthal. If 
tolerable accommodation is to be had 







ROUTE B. — P AZN A U NT UAL. 


there, Pattenen would be desirable head¬ 
quarters for a mountaineer. The Gross 
Litzner (10,250'), and many nameless 
peaks of equal or greater height, might 
probably be i*eached without much 
difficulty. 

The shortest way from Pattenen to 
the Paznaunthal is by the Zeyneser 
Jock (6,162'). a pass lying immediately 
E. of the village; but there is a iar 
more interesting w T ay, a good deal 
longer, but rather less steep, following 
the Fermuntthal. The path lies along 
the rt. bank of the torrent, ascending a 
little W. of 8. for more than 1 hr., till 
it turns nearly due E. opposite the 
junction of the Cromertlial, a short glen 
closed at its S. end by the peaks of 
the Gross Litzner and Klein Litzner. 
After following an easterly course along 
the rt. bank of the main torrent for 
nearly 1 hr., the traveller reaches the 
base of the low ridge of the Bielerhohe, 
forming the watershed between the Ill 
flowing to the Rhine, and the Trisanna 
which drains the Paznaunthal into the 
Inn. To his rt. is a great amphitheatre 
of snowy peaks, divided into two por¬ 
tions by a ridge projecting northward 
towards the spectator, and dividing the 
head of the Fermuntthal into two wild 
alpine glens. The SW. branch—called 
Ivlosterthal—leads by a difficult glacier 
pass to the head of the Sardascathal 
(Rte. D), while the SE. branch, or 
Ochsenthal, is the way to the Fermunt 
Pass (Rte. G). 

From the summit of the Bieler Joch 
the traveller overlooks an upland glen 
that falls NNE. into toe head of the 
Paznaunthal. This is sometimes called 
Klein Fermuntthal, to distinguish it from 
that drained by the principal source of 
the Ill, but seems to be also known 
as Bielerthal. The orthography of 
the names throughout this district is 
very uncertain and confused. It is 
rather remarkable that in the Swiss 
Federal Map the same name should be 
written, in three places, Fermont, Fer- 
mund, and Vermund. Keeping to the 
1. bank of the Klein Fermuntthal, and 
passing the Fennuut See, the traveller 

PART II. A 


353 

reaches in H hr. from the pass the hamlet 
of Wirl at the head of the Paznaunthal. 
Here he joins the track from Pattenen 
by the Zeyneser Joch, and another 
leading from the Ferwallthal (Rte. A). 
In | hr. from Wirl he reaches Galthiir 
(5,309'), the highest Tyrolese village, 
standing at the junction of the Jamthal 
(see Rte. H), said to be the wildest and 
most savage of the valleys of this dis¬ 
trict. The inn at Galthiir is very rough. 
The Paznaunthal descends in a very 
direct course to ENE. from Wirl to 
its junction with the Inn. about 5 m. 
from Landeck. On the N. side it is 
bounded by a ridge unbroken by lateral 
valleys, but from the S. it receives a 
succession of torrents chiefly fed by 
the glaciers of the high range which 
divides it from the Inn, issuing from as 
many wild glens, which supply scanty 
pasturage to sheep or horned cattle. 
Being much higher than the Monta- 
fun valley, the climate is here more 
severe, and the population very li¬ 
mited. Franz Poll, a good mountaineer, 
who accompanied M. Weilenmanri in 
several expeditions, lives at Mathon, 
1 hr. below Galthiir, near the opening 
of the Lareinthal, a narrow and savage 
glen closed at its S. end by the ex¬ 
tremely bold peak of the Fluchthum 
(11,142'). It has been climbed, but 
not without considerable difficulty, 
by M. Weilenmann with Poll. The 
track keeps along the 1. bank of the 
Trisanna, and after passing Paznaun 
reaches Ischgl (4,647'), the chief vil¬ 
lage of the valley, at the opening of the 
Fimberthal (Rte. H), the most con¬ 
siderable of the lateral valleys of this 
part of the range. A rough char-road 
leads from Ischgl down the main val¬ 
ley. About 5 m. farther on, between 
Sinsen and Kappel, is the opening of 
the much shorter Vignitsthal , on the 
E. side of the Vesulspitz (10,154'). 
See Rte. H. The hamlet of Mies lies 
at the junction of the Gribellcthal 
with the main valley. At the head of 
this is the Gribellekopf (9,508), over¬ 
looking the head of the Samnaun- 
thal, belonging, all but a part of the h 

A 





354 


RHiETIAN ALPS. § 34. PILETTIGAU DISTRICT. 


bank, to Switzerland, and being the I 
extreme E. point of the territory of the ! 
Confederation. A high and steep ridge, 
belonging on both sides to Tyrol, ex¬ 
tends ENE. from the Gribellekopf to 
the neighbourhood of Landeck, a dis¬ 
tance of 14 m. There is a track along 
either bank of the Trisanna by which 
the traveller may reach the junction of 
that torrent with the Rosanna (Rte. 
A) a short way above Pians, whence 
he descends by the high road to Lan¬ 
deck. 


Route C. 

FELDKIRCH TO MAIENFELD 



Swiss 

Eng. 


leagues 

miles 

Vaduz . 

3 

9 

Balzers . 

- H 


Maienfeld . 

. 1* 



*’5 

18f 


Since the opening of the railway 
from Rorschach to Coire, the road along 
the rt. bank of the Rhine is not much 
frequented, but the portion here de¬ 
scribed, lying at the W. base of the 
Rhsetikon range, is an agreeable drive, 
and derives a little interest from the 
fact that it lies in great part through 
the principality of Lichtenstein, the 
smallest sovereignty in Europe, pre¬ 
served by its insignificance amid the 
many changes that have affected more 
important States. A diligence plies 
daily between Bregenz and Maienfeld, 
accomplishing the whole distance— 
40 m.—in 8 hrs. 

Soon after crossing the bridge over 
the 111, on the S. side of Feldkirch, the 
road leaves Austrian territory, and en¬ 
ters that of Lichtenstein. The scenery 
is pleasing, though not remarkable. 
On the opposite bank of the Rhine is 
seen the opening of the rather deep 
valley of Toggenburg, that separates 
the range of the Sentis from that of 
the Churfirsten (§ 28, Rte. G). About 
ijm. from the Austrian frontier is 


Vaduz , a small village with a country 
Inn, but the capital of the principality. 
The sovereign visits his ancestral 
castle, standing on steep ground above 
the village, at rather long intervals, 
preferring his large possessions in 
Austria, and his high position at the 
court of Vienna, to the honour of an 
independent but solitary existence at 
his mountain capital. The revenue of 
the State is estimated at a little over 
£5,000 a year, and it is bound to fur¬ 
nish sixty-four men to the army of the 
Germanic Confederation. The road 
running S. from Vaduz leaves on the 
1. the village of Triesen, and in abou< 
5 m. reaches Balzers, Avith abetter Inn 
(Post) than that at Vaduz. Gentiana 
pneunomanthe and some other interest¬ 
ing plants are common in the low 
meadows in this part of the A r alle3 r . 
There is a ferry over the Rhine, about 
1 m. from the village, convenient for 
those wishing to reach Sargans and 
the L. of Wallenstadt. Immediately S. 
of Balzers is a column marking the 
boundary between Lichtenstein and the 
Canton Grisons. Half a mile farther 
a path turns off to the 1. and mounts 
towards the Falkniss (8,33S'), a summit 
conspicuous in all the views of this 
part of the Rhine valley. It is not 
difficult of access and commands a 
very extensive panorama. The high 
road here lies at some distance from 
the Rhine, passing through the defile 
of Luziensteig, betAveen the lower es¬ 
carpments of the Falkniss and the 
Fldscherberg (3.104 ). This has always 
been deemed of great importance as a 
military position. It was hotly con¬ 
tested betAveen the French on one side 
and the Austrians and Swiss on the 
other in 1799, and again in 1800. The 
Foitress of Luziensteig, which noAV 
commands the defile, and is connected 
Avith a series of block-houses that 
guard its approaches, has been con¬ 
structed since 1830, at the cost of the 
Swiss Confederation. Near the highest 
point of the road is an Inn, where 
visitors from the Baths of Ragatz seek 
I refreshment, and a little church, dedi- 







ROUTE D.—LOWER PRAETTIGAU. 


cated to St. Lucius, said to be the most 
ancient in this part of the Alps. The 
descent from Luziensteig towards 
Maienfeld (Inn: Alte Post) commands 
very beautiful views of the Valley of 
the Rhine, with the Calanda, the 
heights above Ragatz, and the gorge 
of the Tamina, to the rt., and the 
opening of the Praettigau to the 1. See 
§ 27, Rte. C, where the way from 
Maienfeld to Coire is described. 


Route D. 


MAIENFELD TO SUS, BY THE PRJET- 
TIGAU AND THE VEREINA PASS. 


Sc'iiersch . . 

Hrs.’ 

walking 

3 

En<r. 

mile: 

9 

Kiiblis 

2i 

71 

Klosters-Briicke 

. 21 


Siis ... 

. 8 

18 


16 

42 


Diligence daily between the Landquart Sta¬ 
tion and Klosters, going on to Davos am Platz. 
Rough foot-path from Klosters to Su>. 

The Praettigau is one of the hnest 
valleys of E. Switzerland, and besides 
two small watering-places, has tolerable 
inns in almost every village; but as 
yet, probably because no popular writer 
has celebrated its attractions, it remains 
unknown to the great majority of 
English travellers. It is rather thickly 
inhabited by an exclusively Protestant 
population, who appear to enjoy a con¬ 
siderable degree of comfort Most 
travellers enter the valley from the 
Laiulquart station (1,739'), on the rly. 
between Ragatz and Coire (§ 27, Rte. 
C). A char-road mounts from that 
place to the entrance of the defile of 
Clus, and there joins the road from 
Malans. 

The traveller starting from Maien¬ 
feld need not make the detour by Land- 
quart, as there is a char-road direct to 
Malans (1,831'), a village chiefly 
known for the excellent wine grown on 
the neighbouring slopes. A road from 
that place meets that mounting from 


o r ~ 
O • J *) 

Landqtiart close to a bridge over the 
torrent, which also bears the name 
Landquart, issuing from the Prsetti- 
gau. By the bridge stands an Inn (Zum 
Felsenbach), and a third road from 
Zizers meets those already mentioned 
at that point. The bridge is about 
1 i hr. from Maienfeld or from Zizers, 
and about ^ hr. from the Landquart 
station. 

Beyond the junction, the road into 
the Praettigau is carried for several 
miles along the rt. bank of the Land- 
quart. It at once enters the narrow 
defile of Clus, where the valley is con¬ 
tracted between the S. base of tin; 
Augstenberg (7,801') and the lower 
range to the S. For more than a mile 
there is barely room for the road, 
which is carried at a considerable 
height above the torrent, and passes 
under the ruins of the Castle of Frag- 
stein, that once commanded the en¬ 
trance to the valley, and was provided 
with a gate by which the only tolerably 
easy track could be absolutely closed. 
On emerging from the defile the road 
passes the hamlet of Pardisla (1,982'), 
where a track mounts northward ta 
Seewis, the chief village of the Gan- 
eyerthal , with a pension (Scesaplana) 
frequented in summer. From that 
village a mountaineer may reach the 
Wallgau by three passes leading either 
by the Saminathal to Frastenz, or to 
Nenzing by the Gamperthonthal. See 
Rte. F. The ascent of the Scesa Plana 
may also be effected from Seewis, and 
is said to be less difficult than by the 
way from Blundenz, described in Rte. 
A. The main road, after crossing the 
torrent from the Ganeyert’nal, reaches 
Griisch (Inn : Krone, fair), overlooked 
by the ruined castle of Solavers. The 
floor of the valley is defaced by sand 
and gravel brought down by the torrent 
throughout the space of about 2 m. 
between Griisch and 

Schiersch (Inns: Lowe, good and 
reasonable ; Krone ; Scliwan), 2,257 ft. 
above the sea, at the junction of the Dm- 
| eenthal with the main valley. By that 
(way lie two high passes to the Montafun 



356 


EH.ETIAN ALPS. § 34. PRiETTIGAU DISTRICT. 


Valley, the Scliweizerthor (7,120') 
leading to Vadvms, and the Drusenthor 
(7,822'), lying farther E. under the 
shattered ridge of the Drusenfluh 
(9,298'), by which the traveller may 
reach Schruns through the Gauerthal 
(see Rte. F). The range of the Rhae- 
tikon N. of Schiersch seems to be 
menaced with rapid destruction. There 
are many remains of great berg-falls. 
One of the most recent of these, in 
1805, almost completely destroyed the 
village of Busserein, in the lower part 
of the Drusenthal. 

An interesting excursion may be 
made, in 3^ hrs., from Schiersch to the 
summit called Kreuz (7,218'). A path 
mounts about due E. to the highest 
chalets of the Stalserberg, and a grassy 
ridge leads thence to the highest point. 
The pedestrian may descend on the S. 
side of the mountain to Luzein, and 
rejoin the road at Dalfazza. 

The road up the valley crosses to the 
1. bank of the Landquart rather more 
than 1 m. above Schiersch, and mounts 
gently towards SSE. to Jenatz (Inns: 
Heim’s Hotel; Krone), a pretty vil¬ 
lage 2,461 ft. above the sea. The val¬ 
ley here resumes its true direction, 
somewhat S. of E., and from time to 1 
time the snowy peaks of the Silvretta 
Alps rise above the nearer ranges 
About ^ hr. farther is the spot called 
Fideris Au, where stands a good and 
reasonable country Inn—kept by Nig- 
gli. The landlord has light chars 
available for excursions up and down 
the valley. On rising ground to the S. 
stands the village of Fideris (2,959'). 
There is near the village a large 
new Inn, and a pension (zum Stern), 
where board and lodging are had on 
very cheap terms. ‘ The landlord, Clas 
Buhner, knows the mountains well, and 
is a successful sportsman’ [B.]. S. of 
the village is a narrow glen or ravine 
called Raschitscher Tobel, running 
deep into the mountain range separating 
the Prmttigau from the Schanfiggrhal. 
In the midst of the forest that clothes 
t i is wild glen stand the Baths oj 
Fideris, 3,465 ft. above the sea, about 


1^ m. from the main road, and acces¬ 
sible by a very rough track, just pass¬ 
able by a light char. The accom¬ 
modation is somewhat rough, but in 
summer the two large establishments 
are generally crowded. The cookery 
and wine are said to be fairly good. 
The waters are alkaline and chalybeate, 
and considered useful in some pul¬ 
monary affections, and for the removal 
of visceral obstructions. There is a 
path to Langwies in the Schanfiggthal 
which is reached in 3 (?) hrs. 

I Above Fideris Au, the road traverses 
a very picturesque wooded defile ; and 
after passing below the ruins of the 
Castle of Strahlegg, it crosses a covered 
bridge over the Landquart, and soon 
after reaches Dalfazza at the opening 
of the St. Antdnierthal, through which 
lies a somewhat frequented track con¬ 
nected with three passes leading to the 
Montafun valley (Rte. F). On high 
ground to the NW. is Luzein (3,140'), 
a village commanding a beautiful view 
of the Upper Prsettigau. But ^ m. 
beyond Dalfazza is 

Kiiblis (Inn: Krone, at the post), a 
village lying deep in the valley, at 
2,697 ft., "the best head-quarters for ex- 
1 cursions in the St. Antdnierthal. The 
new road to Klosters is carried along 
the slopes above the rt. bank of the 
Landquart, passing Saas (3,255'), and 
Mezza Selva (3,445'). Pleasanter for 
pedestrians is the road by the 1. bank, 
passing Serneus (3,304') and about a 
mile farther on, the Baths of Serneus 
(3,232'), a mineral spring containing 
sulphur and various salts, with very fair 
accommodation. Nearly due N. rises 
the Madrishorn (9,344'). The road 
on the rt. bank passes several torrents 
descending through lateral ravines, 
the most considerable of which issues 
from a high glen called Schlappina, 
said to be one of the wildest in the 
Rhaetikon chain. [A rather steep 
ascent, a little E. of N., leads in about 
l j hr. from the road to a group of 
chalets (5,456'), lying at the S. base of 
the Schlappiner Joch (7,185'), one of 
the lowest passes leading to Montafun. 







ROUTE D.-VEREINA PASS. 


The track descends through the 
Gargellenthal (Rte. F) to St. Gallen- 
kirch. From the above-mentioned 
chalets the head of the Schlappina 
glen mounts nearly due E., at right 
angles to its previous course. Keep¬ 
ing the S. branch of the torrent, the 
traveller may reach a small tarn called 
Schotten See (8,041'), encompassed by 
high and steep rocks. The N. branch 
of the torrent leads to the Garneira 
Joch (8,071'), a rather difficult pass 
lying at the head of the Gannerathal, 
one of the tributary glens of the Mon- 
tafun valley. This pass may be con¬ 
sidered as the division between the 
Rhaetikon and the Silvretta Alps.] 
Kloslers is a collective name given to 
the chief commune of the Upper Pract- 
tigau. It includes five scattered ham¬ 
lets. The parish church is at that 
called Platz (3.953'), and near to this 
two new Inns (B. Silvretta and Hirsch). 
Guides Ch. Jaun, Ch. Jogen, and Anton 
Schlegel. The road to Davos, over 
the low Laret Pass, S. of Klosters, is 
described in § 35, Rte. D. Above 
Klosters the valley of the Landquart 
soon divides into several branches, 
each of them traversed by a torrent 
that is fed by the snow-fields of the 
Silvretta Alps. For some distance 
there are well-marked tracks from 
Klosters along both banks of the 
Landquart; but the way is scarcely 
traced over the Vereina Pass, and ex¬ 
cept in very clear weather a guide is 
indispensable. The better way is by 
the S. bank of the stream. On the op¬ 
posite side is Monbiel, the poor remains 
of a village crushed by a berg-fall in 
the last century. Serpentine is seen in 
several places near Klosters—a circum¬ 
stance which will be noted by the 
mineralogist and the botanist. About 
1| hr. above Klosters is the junction 
of the Sardascathal, descending due W. 
from the Silvretta Glacier (Rte. E), 
with the Vereina Thai drained by the 
Vereinabach, flowing towards the N. 
from the Weisshorn and other adjoining 
peaks in the range dividing the Rhine 
from the Inn. On approaching the I 


O r *7 

OfJ l 

junction of the two torrents, the path 
to the Vereina Pass mounts at first on 
the rt. side, and afterwards by a steep 
slope on the 1. bank of the Vereinabach, 
to the Stutz Alp (6,158'), reached in 
hrs. from Klosters. These chalets 
command a fine view of the Pischa 
Glacier and the Eisenhorn (9,816'), 
rising on the W. side of the Vereina- 
thal, and the Weisshorn (10,135') at its 
S. extremity. The latter is not to be 
confounded with a lower peak cf the 
same name (9,318') rising immediately 
E. of the Stutz Alp. An easy ascent 
of ^ hr. leads to the opening of the 
Vernelathal (Rte. E). On the slope of 
the mountain, which is covered by huge 
blocks of gneiss, is a cavern called 
Baretto Balma, said to have been once 
inhabited by ‘ wild men.’ A search 
for flint weapons or bones might re¬ 
ward the pains. Leaving the Vernela¬ 
thal to the 1., the path keeps along the 
E. side of the main valley, and pass¬ 
ing opposite the chalets of Fremd 
Vereina (6,437'), reaches the opening 
of the Sicserthal, a short and steep 
glen, mounting a little S. of E. to the 
Vereina Pass (8,133'). The ascent is 
easily made in l£ hr., and commands a 
fine view of th ePlattenhorner, with three 
nearly equal summits, of which the E. 
point reaches 10.587 ft. The top of the 
Piz Linard, the highest of the Silvretta 
Alps, is seen at intervals during the 
ascent; but to command a complete 
view of that fine peak it is necessary 
to mount to the ridge at the E. end of 
the Sitserthal, immediately S. of the 
Plattenhdrner. This rirlge, called on 
the Federal Map Val Torta (8,724'), 
lies exactly opposite the W. face of the 
Piz Linard, and the detour, which may 
be made in §■ hr., is well worth the 
trouble, for the sake of the grand view. 
It is possible to descend from the ridge 
into the head of the Val Sayliains , 
which falls SE. into the valley of the 
Inn between Siis and Lavin, and in 
point of distance this is the shortest 
way to either of those places; but the 
Val Sagliains is an extremely rugged 
and pathless glen, and the ground io so 





358 


RILETIAN ALPS. § 34 

difficult that time is lost by taking this 
course. It is so bare of vegetation, that 
no cow s are pastured there, and the 
huts in the lower part of the glen are 
occupied by shepherds. 

The Vereina Pass is a depression 
between some nameless summits S. of 
the ridge of Val Torta (whose highest 
peak reaches 9,925 ft.) and a larger 
mass lying between these and the head 
of the Vereinathal. crowned by the 
Bossthali (9,629'). Having reached the 
pass by following a course but little S. 
of E., the traveller turns abruptly to 
SW. across a small plateau with several 
little tarns or pools, and descends in 
the same direction into the head of the 
Val Fless, keeping along the 1. hank of 
the torrent. This gradually bends to 
the 1., and after passing opposite to a 
solitary chalet (6,890') the course lies 
SE. In about if hr. from the summit 
the path reaches the junction of the 
Val Fless with the Val Susasca, and 
joins the far more frequented track 
leading from the Fluela Pass (§ 35, 
Rte. F). The course is now due E., 
along the 1. bank of the Susasca tor¬ 
rent, until this is crossed a short way 
from the high road, which is reached 
about 3 hrs. from the summit of the 
pass, at Siis (Inn: Krone), described in 
§ 36, Rte. A. 


Route E. 

GLACIER PASSES FROM KLOSTERS TO 
LAVIN, OR GUARDA — ASCENT OF 
PIZ LINARD. 

1. By the Laviner Jock. From 
Klosters to Lavin, 9 to 10 hrs. 

A way from Klosters to the Engadine, 
rather more difficult and laborious, but 
perhaps more interesting than the 
Vereina Pass, lies through the Ver- 
nelathal, which, as mentioned in last 
Rte., diverges irom the Vereinathal 
near the cavern called Raretto Raima. 
The Vernelathal mounts nearly due E. 
along the N. side of the extremelv bold 
range of the Plattenhbrner. Its W. 


. PKiETTIGAU DISTRICT. 

end is closed by a glacier-covered 
ridge, at the N. end of which rises the 
double peak of the Schwarzhorn. The 
S. peak, nearest the pass, is 10,656 ft. 
in height, but the higher N. peak 
attains 10,834 ft. This is the highest 
of several mountains in the Rhsetian 
Alps bearing the same name, and 
may be considered the central peak of 
the Silvretta group. The ascent is ex¬ 
tremely rough, and pathless, and but 
one chalet (7,225') is passed in the 
Vernelathal before reaching the base 
of the ridge covered by the Piller 
Glacier, over which lies the pass of 
the Laviner Jock (9,131';. The sum¬ 
mit, reached in 6 hrs.’- steady walking 
from Klosters, overlooks from the W. 
side the head of the Val Lavinuoz, and 
is said to command one of the finest 
views in this part of the Alps. To the 
N. rise the two peaks of the Schwarz¬ 
horn, and rt. of these is the steep 
ice-fall of the Vadret Tiatscha, a com¬ 
paratively small glacier descending 
from a great snow-field lying between 
the Sch warzhorn and PizBuin (10,916'). 
S. of the latter is another high name¬ 
less peak ( 10.774'), rising exactly 
opposite to the spectator. 

The descent from the I.aviner Joeh 
is said to be steep ami rather difficult. 
The ridges of very steep rocks are 
broken in one place by a slope of 
debris, down which the traveller makes 
his way to the chalets of Marangun, at 
the head of Val Lavinuoz, a short way 
below the end of the Tiatscha Glacier. 
The descent is by a rough track on the 
rt. bank of the torrent, until, near the 
opening of the valley, it passes to the 1. 
bank, and falls rapidly to Lavin, on the 
high road of the Entradine. See § 36, 
Rte. A. 

2. By the Silvretta Pass. From Klos¬ 
ters to Guarda, 9 to 10 hrs. This pass 
was traversed in 1864, by Messrs. Gir- 
dlestone and Pilcher, following the 
course suggested by the writer in the 
first edition of this work; but Prof. Ul¬ 
rich, who crossed it in 1863, says that 
it has long been known to the na¬ 
tives. It appears to be rather easier 





ROUTE E.—ASCENT OF PIZ LINARD. 


359 


tlian the Laviner Joch, but not quite 
equal to the latter in scenery. From 
its junction with the Vereinathal (see 
last Rte.), the Sardascathal stretches* 
due E. to the Silvretta Glacier which 
forms the natural termination to the 
main branch of the Piattigau. The 
chalets of the Sardasca Alp (5,364'), 
lie in the middle of this glen, 2^- hrs. 
from Klosters. Near th:s the main 
stream is formed by the union of four 
torrents. That from the N. issues 
from a wild recess in the mountains. 
To NE. the torrent flows from a pass 
leading to Montafun (Rte B), while 
SE. opens the Verstanklathal , a short 
glen by which the upper pJateau of 
the Silvretta Gl. may be reached by a 
slight detour. The direct way lies due 
E. along the torrent from the Silvretta 
Gl. In 1^ hr. from the lower chalets, the 
traveller reaches the new commodious 
hut bmlt by the Swiss Alpine Club 
near the foot of that glacier. The 
moraine on the rt. bank may be 
followed for ± hr. and the ascent is 
easily continued by the ice, keeping 
somewhat to the N. side, opposite the 
Verstanklaliorner (10,833'). In about 
6 hrs. the summit of the pass is reached 
without the least difficuhy, and as it is 
a broad snow col, it is bust to advance 
for about t hr. somewhat S. of E. to a 
sort of island of rock, which offers a 
striking though limited view. From 
the upper neve of the Silvretta, two 
small glaciers flow to the S. Of these 
the Vadred Tiatscha (see above) fall¬ 
ing into Val Lavinuoz is decidedly dif¬ 
ficult, but not impossible. The Cron- 
set Glacier , falling SE. into Val Tuoi. 
presents no difficulty, and less than 
ljf hr. suffices to reach the head of that 
glen. A walk of 50 min. carries tfie 
traveller to the Alp Sott (6,611'), and 
in 1 hr. more he reaches the inn 
(Sonne) at Guarda (Rte. G). In de¬ 
scending, the traveller passes close to 
Piz Buin (10,916'), a summit best 
attacked from the side of xMontafun. 

Ascent of Piz Linard (11,208'). The 
Piz Linard being most conveniently 
accessible from Lavin, and being the 


most conspicuous as well as the highest 
peak in the Silvretta group, a short 
notice of the ascent is given here, 
chiefly borrowed from M. Weilenmann, 
who allowed his inefficient guide to 
remain behind, and accomplished the 
expedition alone, a course not re¬ 
commended to future travellers. The 
Piz Linard is a very steep pyramid, 
forming a promontory that extends 
from the dividing range of the Silvretta 
Alps towards the Engadine,and divides 
the Val Sagliains from the Val La¬ 
vinuoz. Two parallel ridges stretch 
SE. from the peak towards Lavin, en¬ 
closing between them an upland glen 
locally named Glims, whose torrent 
ultimately flows S. into Val Sagliains, 
a little above its junction with the Inn. 
At the S. base of the peak there is a 
col or depression in the ridge sepa¬ 
rating Glims from Sagliains. This 
point may be reached from either of 
those glens, but the shortest way from 
Lavin is by Glims. The pyramidal 
summit of the Linard appears to be in¬ 
accessible on every side, except by the 
arete that falls a little W. of S. towards 
the above-mentioned col. A long 
channel or broad couloir, filled with 
snow, descends between tworibs of rock, 
and this appears to offer the easiest 
access to the mountain. Above this 
it is necessary to scale the very steep 
rocks of the highest peak, which are 
in some places so smooth as to give 
but little hold for feet or hands, and 
are seamed by furrows containing 
snow or ice, demanding caution and 
experience in the climber. The summit 
is a sharp arete, with two piles of 
stones. The S. end is the lower. A 
few paces beyond the N. end, which 
marks the highest point of the moun¬ 
tain, the ridge falls away in a for¬ 
midable precipice towards the head of 
Val Lavinuoz. As the peak has no 
near rival in the ranges N. of the En¬ 
gadine, except the Piz Kesch, which 
surpasses it by 3 ft., and is fully 18 m. 
distant, the panorama is one of the most 
extensive in this part of the Alps. M. 
Weilenmann warns future travellers 







360 


RILETIAN ALPS. § 34 

against an impudent pretender, living 
at Lavin, who offered himself as guide 
under false colours, and proved himself 
to be utterly incompetent. 

Route F. 

PASSES FROM THE VALLEY OF THE ILL 
TO THE PRiETTIGAU. 

Although no detailed information 
can be given as to the passes connect¬ 
ing the Wallgau and Montafun with 
the parallel valley of Praettigau, it 
seems convenient to enumerate here 
those which are occasionally used by 
the people of the adjacent glens, al¬ 
though there is no one of them that 
can be called frequented. No reliable 
information as to distances can be 
given. 

1. Saminathal to Seewis. At the 
head of the Saminathal (Rte. A) is a 
pass which may for distinction be 
called Samina Jock , 7,795 ft. in height, 
leading to the Ganeyerthal, which joins 
the Praettigau, near Griisch. At the 
head of the Saminathal, the track keeps 
SSE. to a point midway between the 
Grauspitz (8,648'), and a nameless 
summit (8,543') lying E. of the Falk- 
niss. The descent towards the Praet¬ 
tigau lies to SE.,passing first the chalets 
of Sturvis (5,207'), then those of Gannei 
(4,315'), and following the valley about 
due S. to Seeivis, (2,986') less than 1 hr. 
above Griisch (Rte. D). 

2. Nenzing to Seewis by the Grosse 
Furka. At the head of the Gamper- 
thonthal, which opens into the Wallgau 
at Nenzing (Rte. A), two passes lead 
to Seewis. The more frequented is the 
Grosse Furka (7,546'), lying E. of the 
Grauspitz. The track joins that of 
the Samina Joch (No. 1) between 
Sturvis and Gannei. 

3. Nenzing to Seewis , by the Kleine 
Furka. The Kleine Furka lies con¬ 
siderably farther E. than the Grosse 
Furka, and near the Alpstein (9,347'), 
a western peak of the Scesa Plana. It 
appears to be a rarely-used pass. 


. PILETTIGAU DISTRICT. 

4. Cuvell Joch , from Liiner Sec to 
Seeivis. As mentioned in Rtes. A and 
B, the Liiner See, a large mountain 
lake E. of the Scesa Plana, may be 
reached from Bludenz by the Brand- 
nerthal, or more easily from Vadans 
in Montafun by the Rellsthal. There 
are tracks along both sides cf the lake 
which meet above its S. end, and a 
rapid ascent to WSW. leads thence to 
the Cavell Joch (7,562'). This pass is 
convenient only for those who wish to 
reach the lower end of the Praettigau, 
as the descent lies through the E. branch 
of the Ganeyerthal, and the pass leads, 
like those already mentioned, to Seewis. 

5. Schweizerthor, Vadans to Schiersch. 
This very grand pass is reached from 
the N. side through the Rellsthal. In¬ 
stead of following the path at the head 
of that valley which leads SW. to the 
Liiner See, the course lies about due S. 
to the Schweizerthor (7,120'). The 
pass, lying between the Drusenfiuh 
(9,293') to E., and the Kirchelispitz 
(8,498') to W., is a scene of the utmost 
desolation. Vast precipices rise on 
either side, and huge masses of fallen 
rock cover the slopes below them. The 
track leading to Schiersch winds along 
the slopes to SW., making considerable 
circuits in order to cross the gullies 
that furrow the steep declivity. Save 
the solitary chalet of Tamund(5,384),at 
the foot of the Drusenfiuh, no dwelling 
is seen till the path reaches Schuders 
(4,056') in the Drusenihal, whence there 
is an easy descent by Busserein to 
Schiersch (Rte. D), 5 hrs. from the pass. 

6. Drusenthur, Schruns to Schiersch. 
This pass, higher but less difficult than 
the last, is the easiest way from Schruns 
(Rte. A) into the Praettigau, and is 
sometimes passed on horseback. The 
pass, 7,822 ft. in height, lies at the head 
of the Gauerthal, between the Drusen- 
fluh and the equally rugged crest of 
the Sulzfluh (9,324'). On the Praettigau 
side the descent is nearly due W. along 
the base of the Drusenfiuh, joining the 
track from the Schweizerthor at the 
chalet of Tamund, near the head of the 
Drusenthal. 






ROUTE F.-PASSES FROM THE ILL TO THE PR.ETTIGAU. 


361 


7. Schruns to Kiiblis , by the Partnuner 
Pass. The St. Anlonierthal , mentioned 
in Rte. D, is said to be the most pic¬ 
turesque of all the lateral valleys of the 
Praettigau. It is connected by three 
passes with Montafun. The most west¬ 
erly of these, called Partnuner Pass 
(7,349'), is reached through the ravine 
of the Gampadel Tobel, opening into 
Montafun, a little E. of Schruns. The 
path bears to the right, along the W. 
side of a streamlet descending from a 
mountain tarn, and finally turns sharply 
to the W. to attain the pass, between 
the Sulzfluh and Mittel Fluh (8,441'). 
The track, after passing a little lake, 
descends to the large and comfortable 
chalets of the Partnun Alp (5,866'), at 
the head of the Partnunthal. From 
hence the mountaineer may in less 
than 3 hrs. attain the fine peak of the 
Sulzfluh (9,324'), commanding a noble 
panoramic view. On its E. face are 
some caverns somewhat difficult of ac¬ 
cess, but worth a visit for their large 
dimensions and fine stalactites. The 
Partnunthal joins the main branch of 
the St. Antonierthal some way above 
the village of St. Antonien (4,658'). 
The track then lies on the rt. bank of 
Dalfazzer Bach; but about 2 m. below 
the village there is a bridge, and the 
traveller may choose between the path 
on the rt. bank leading to Luzein, and 
one on the opposite side, by which he 
can descend directly to Kiiblis (Rte. D), 
6 hrs. from the pass. 

8. Schruns to Kiiblis, by the Plasseg- 
gen Pass. Towards the head of the 
Gampadel Tobel the torrent branches 
into two. The way to the last-men¬ 
tioned pass is by the 1. bank of the 
SW. branch. Another path following 
the rt. bank of the SE. branch leads to 
the Plassengen Pass (7,615'). The 
track descends on the Pnettigau side 
to the chalets of Thaleck (7,103'), at 
the head of a lateral arm of the Part¬ 
nunthal. The course then turns sharp 
to WNW., and in little more than 1 hr. 
from the pass joins that last noticed at 
the Partnun Alp. 

9. St. Gallenkirch to Kiiblis, by the 


St. Antonier Joch. From the Plasseg- 
gen Pass last noticed the ridge of the 
Rhsetikon, dividing the basin of the 
Ill from that of the Landquart, extends 
due S. for a considerable distance to 
the peak of the Madrishorn (9,344'), 
and then resumes its easterly direction 
to its junction with the higher group 
of the Silvretta Alps. The consequence 
is that the Gargellenthal, which is the 
next valley eastward of the Gampadel 
Tobel, penetrates much farther S.. and 
communicates with the middle portion 
of the Praettigau by the pass here de¬ 
scribed, as well as with the head of that 
valley by the Schlappiner Joch (No. 
10). At the upper end of the Gargel¬ 
lenthal two torrents form to join the 
Suggedinbach, which drains the valley. 
The SE. branch—called Valcalda — 
does not appear to be connected by any 
practicable pass with the Praettigau; 
but the S. branch leads to the Schlap¬ 
piner Joch. Near the chalets of Gar- 
gellen, just below the junction of the 
two torrents, a track mounts due W. 
to the St. Antonier Joch (7,848'), and 
follows the same direction throughout 
the rather rapid descent to the village 
of St. Antonien. The way thence to 
Kiiblis is noticed in No. 7. 

10. St. Gallenkirch to Klosters, by 
the Schlappiner Joch. From the junc¬ 
tion of the two torrents at ihe head of 
the Gargellenthal a track mounts due 
S., chiefly along the rt. bank of the 
torrent, but crossing to the opposite 
side at the commencement of the final 
ascent. The Schlappiner Joch (7,185'), 
one of the lowest of the passes here 
enumerated, lies E. of the Miidrishorn, 
and affords perhaps the easiest and 
most direct means of communication, 
but the path is (?) not practicable for 
horses. The descent to Klosters fol¬ 
lows a course somewhat W. of S. 
through the Schlappina glen to its 
junction with the Praettigau, 2 m. N\V. 
of Klosters Platz. (See Rte. D.) 

11. Gaschurn to Klosters, by the 
Garneira Joch. The Gannerathal, 
opening into Montafun opposite Gas- 
churn (Rte. A), and the Garneira Joch, 








362 


rhaetian ALPS. § 34 

connecting it with the E. end of the 
glen of Schlappina, form the most 
natural boundary between the Rhaeti- 
kon and the Silvretta Alps. The height 
of the pass is 8,071 ft., and the distance 
is not great. An active mountaineer, 
instead of taking the circuitous path to 
Klosters along the Schlappina Bach, 
might possibly reach that place over 
the summit of the Schilt (9,462'), the 
highest point in the range dividing 
the head of the Schlappina from the 
Landquart. It would be a better plan 
to attempt that course from the side of 
Klosters. and with a local guide. In 
case the ascent and descent of the 
Schilt should consume too much time, 
it would then be easy to return to 
Klosters by the track through Schlap¬ 
pina. 

12. Pattenen to Klosters, by the Sar- 
dasea Pass (?) In Rte. B., and again in 
Rte. I)., allusion is made to a pass 
connecting the branch of the Fermunt- 
thal called Klosterthal with the head 
of the Sardascathal. It is a hunter’s 
pass lying partly over glacier, and said 
to be difficult. It is mentioned here 
merely to direct to it the attention of 
mountaineers. Information as to all the 
above passes will be thankfully received 
by the Editor. 

Detailed information respecting the 
St. Antonierthal, the Sulzfluh, and the 
caverns of that mountain, may be found 
in a little volume called ‘ Sulzfluh,’ 
published at Coire, 1S65. It is an ac¬ 
count of an excursion undertaken in 
1864 by the Rhaetian section of the 
Swiss Alpine Club. 


. PPJETTIGAU DISTRICT. 

Route G. 

PATTENEN IN MONTAFUN TO GUARDA, 
BY THE FERMUNT PASS. 

In the absence of detailed informa¬ 
tion of a reliable character, this pass is 
noticed separately with the belief that 
it will hereafter be comparatively fre¬ 
quented by mountaineers. It offers to 
| a pedestrian much the most direct way 
from the Lake of Constance to the 
Lower Engadine, as a traveller starting 
early, and availing himself of vehicles 
as far as Bludenz, may reach Gaschurn 
or Pattenen in one day from Rorschach 
or Bregenz. The way then follows 
the Fermuntthal to the foot of the Bie- 
lerhbhe, by the track mentioned in Rte. 
B, and then turning to the rt. mounts 
along the rt. bank of the glacier torrent 
descending from the Ochsenthal. This 
is crossed a short way below the point 
where it issues from the glacier w hich 
is considered the main source of the 
Ill, and after following the moraine 
some way, the traveller ascends over 
glacier and considerable snow-fields for 
3 hrs. to the 

Fermunt Pass (9.206'), lying E. of 
Piz Buin (10,916'), and overlooking 
the. Val Tuoi. The way lies by the 1. 
side of a small glacier which soon leads 
dowm to the highest pastures. Thence 
the way (see Rte. E) lies nearly due S., 
to Guarda (5,413'), on the brow of a 
steep declivity overlooking the valley 
of the Inn, noticed in § 36, Rte. A. 


Route H. 

PASSES FROM THE PAZNAUNTHAL TO 
THE ENGADINE. 

1. Galthiir to Ardetz , by the Futschol 
Pass. Galthiir, the highest village in 
the Paznaunthal, stands at the con¬ 
fluence of the Trisanna with the tor¬ 
rent issuing from the Jamthal, and 
draining the Jamthaler Ferner, the most 





ROUTE H-VIGNITZ PASS. 


363 


extensive glaciers on the Tyrolese side 
of the Silvretta Alps. The head of 
the Jamthal, encircled by many of the 
highest peaks of this group, is said to 
offer the perfection of wild and savage 
scenery. To the rt. is the great 
Jamthal Glacier, enclosed by a range 
exceeding 10,000 ft. in height, one 
nameless summit reaching 10,496 ft. 
[No pass in this direction appears to 
be known, but it may be possible to 
reach the head of theValTuoi.J In 
the centre is the Augstenberg (10,443'), 
connected by a snowy range forming a 
deep recess to SE. with the Fluchfhorn 
(11,142'). The Futschol Pass (9.078’) 
lies over a depression in the snowy 
wall of this amphitheatre. On the S. 
side the descent lies almost altogether 
over rocks, keeping a SE. direction 
till near a solitary chalet (7,887'), at 
the head of the Val Urschai, when the 
way turns S.W. through that glen. 
This is the NE. branch of a lateral 
valley of the Engadine, whose torrent 
descends to join the Inn between Fet- 
tan and Ardetz. The Val Urschai is 
all but completely enclosed by high 
6nowy peaks. Its NE. end is closed 
by the Piz Fatschalv (10,430'), and a 
steep and high ridge extends SSW. 
from that summit to the Mintschun 
(10,076'). A little below the Urschai 
Alp (6,913') the Val Urezas descends 
from the W. to join the main branch 
of the vallev, henceforward called Val 
Tasna. This is a very wild glen, con¬ 
tracted between the base of the Mint- 
fcchun to the E., and the Piz Cotschen 
(9,938'), dividing it from Val T’uoi, 
to the W. The way to the Engadine 
is along the E. slope of the valley till 
near the point where the road from 
Ardetz to Fettan enters the opening of 
Val Tasna, in order to avoid the deep 
ravine cut by the torrent lower down. 
Those who seek better accommodation 
than is to be had at Ardetz or Fettan, 
will either pass through the latter vil¬ 
lage, and push on to Schuls, or else 
keep to the rt. to Ardetz, and cross the 
Inn to Tarasp. See § 36, Rte. A. 

2. Ischgl to Remits, by the Fimber Joch. 


As mentioned in Rte. 13, the Fimberthal 
joins the Paznaunthal from the S. at 
Ischgl. It is a singular arrangement 
that the head of this glen should be¬ 
long to Switzerland. The Swiss por¬ 
tion, including some extensive pastures 
and a small group of chalets, 7,431 ft. 
above the sea, is accessible from the 
Engadine only during the height of 
summer, by a high and rather difficult 
pass. This is called the Fimber Jock 
(8,547'), and is reached by a track that 
ascends SE. from the chalets. At the 
top it is necessary to bear to the 1., or 
ENE., in order to descend by a very 
steep track into the head of Val Cho¬ 
glias. The Choglias Alp (6,724') lies 
at the junction of several torrents de¬ 
scending from the surrounding snowy 
peaks. To the N. is the Piz Vadret 
(10,184')—not to be confounded with 
others of the same name. Eastward 
rises the Stammerspitze (10,683'), and 
beyond it, but not visible from hence, 
the Muttler (10.824'). A path leads 
down the Val Choglias, by the 1. bank, 
to Grioftch (5,948'), at the open¬ 
ing of Val Tiatseha, a short glen lead¬ 
ing to the base of the Muttler, and to 
a hunter’s pass W. of that peak into 
Samnaunthal. About 1 m. lower down, 
the Val Laver opens on the W., and 
joins its torrent to that of Val Cho¬ 
glias. The united glens are hencefor¬ 
ward called Val Sincstra , and a fre¬ 
quented track leads SE., by the 1. bank 
of the stream, to Remus in the Enga¬ 
dine (§ 36, Rte. A). 

3. Ischgl to Finstermiinz, by the Zebles 
Pass. A. traveller ascending the Firn- 
berthal, before reaching the head of 
that valley, which belongs to Switzer¬ 
land, may bear to the 1. up a short late¬ 
ral glen which leads to the Zebles Pass 
(8,333'), on the N. side of the Piz Va- 
dred (10,184'). From the summit the 
way lies due E. into the head of the 
Samnaunthal ^see next Pass), and along 
the principal torrent of that valley 
which joins the Inn a short way below 
the hamlet of Finstermiinz. See § 36, 
Rte. A. 

4. Ischgl to Finstermiinz, by the Vignitz 




3G4 


RILETIAN ALPS. § 35. ALBULA DISTRICT. 


Pass. The range dividing the Paz- 
naunthal from the Inn extends in a 
tolerably direct line from the Schwarz- 
horn (10,834'), which may be con¬ 
sidered the central peak of the Sil- 
vretta Alps, to the Piz Vadred. It 
here divides into two branches. The 
longer ridge, following the general 
direction of the valleys on either side, 
extends to the Schonjochlberg over 
Prutz. With the exception of the 
detached summit of the Vesulspitz 
(10,154'), none of the peaks of this 
range attain 10,000 ft., though many of 
them approach that limit. A much 
higher, but shorter, range projects to 
the eastward from the Piz Vadred, in¬ 
cluding the Stammerspitz (10,683'), 
the Muttler (10,824'), and the Piz 
Mondin (10,377'), and terminates at 
the defile of Finstermiinz. In the 
angle between these two ranges is a 
pastoral valley— Samnaunthal —whose 
torrent, after receiving the stream from 
a lateral glen called Val Sampuoir, falls 
into the Inn at the lower end of the 
defile of Finstermiinz. The Val Sam¬ 
puoir and the greater part of Samnaun- 
thal belong to Switzerland, but in the 
lower part of the latter valley the 
Schergenbach torrent forms the fron¬ 
tier between Switzerland and Austria. 
The small Swiss population of the val¬ 
ley have no convenient access to the 
Engadine without passing through 
Austrian territory, though there are 
two hunters’ passes, practicable in the 
height of summer, leading to Val 
Choglias, and also a very rough track, 
along the N. or Swiss side of the defile 
of Finstermiinz, from the junction of 
the Schergenbach with the Inn to 
Martinsbruck. The Zebles Pass 
(No. 3) leads from the Fimberthal into 
the head of the Samnaunthal. An¬ 
other way to the Swiss portion of the 
valley is by the Vignitz Pass (8,855'), 
at the head of the Vignitzthal , which, 
as mentioned in Rte. B, joins the 
Paznaunthal between Sinsen and 
Kappel. On reaching the head of 
the Vignitzthal, at the E. base of the 
Vesulspitz, the way lies to the 1., and 


mounts steeply towards ESE. to the 
pass, which lies SW. of the Gribelle- 
kopf. A steep descent leads to Com- 
patsch (5,591'), the principal hamlet of 
the Samnaunthal. Half a mile lower 
down, the Schergenbach forms the 
boundary of Switzerland, and the 
easiest path to the Inn is on the N. or 
Austrian bank. 

5. Mies to Finstermiinz, by the Gri- 
belle Joch. The Gribellekopf (9,508'). 
rising at the head of a N. branch of 
the Samnaunthal, forms the limit be¬ 
tween Switzerland and Austria, and 
the Gribelle Joch, lying E. of the sum¬ 
mit, affords a passage from the Paz¬ 
naunthal to the Inn without entering 
Swiss territory. On the N. side the 
ascent to the pass is about due S., 
through the Gribellethal , and the de¬ 
scent bears towards SSE., along a tor¬ 
rent fed by the snows of the Gribelle¬ 
kopf, and then along the Schergenbach 
to the hamlet of Schergenhof, which is 
the shortest way to Nauders. If the 
traveller’s course be down the Inn, he 
should not take that course, but follow 
a path from Spiss that joins the high¬ 
road from Nauders to Landeck (§ 44), 
2 m. below Schergenhof. 


SECTION 35. 

ALBULA DISTRICT. 

Under the name Albula district are 
here included the Alpine ranges be¬ 
tween the road of the Splugen, from 
Maienfeld to Chiavenna, the road 
from Chiavenna to Siis in the Enga¬ 
dine, and the path from Siis to Maien¬ 
feld through the Proettigau described 
in § 34, Rte. D. These limits corre¬ 
spond to the main valleys, and the 
best marked passes in this part of the 
Alps. The very extensive mountain 
region included within these boundaries 





ROUTE A.-JULIER PASS. 


365 


is chiefly drained by three tributaries j 
of the Rhine, the streams flowing into 
the Inn being short and inconsiderable. 
Qf the three main valleys, the northern¬ 
most and least important is the Schan- 
figgthal, which joins the valley of the 
Rhine at Coire. The central valley is 
drained by the Albula, or Oberhalb- 
stein Rhine. This enters the Hinter 
Rhein near Thusis, through the defile 
of Schyn, and is formed by the union 
of three torrents, each draining a con¬ 
siderable tributary valley. That of 
Oberhalbstein to the S. gives access, 
by the Julier Pass, to the head of the 
Engadine; a SE. branch leads to the 
Albula Pass; and a NE. branch—the 
valley of Davos—runs parallel to the 
Engadine. The third of the main 
valleys of this district is the Aversthal, 
hitherto unjustly neglected by travel¬ 
lers, through which the torrents from 
several high valleys, whose prevalent 
direction is from S. to N., descend to 
the Hinter Rhein near Andeer. 

With the exception of the Piz Platta, 
Piz d’Aela, and some other outlying 
peaks, the highest summits of this 
district lie in the range forming the 
watershed between the Inn, or the 
Mera, and the Rhine. This range is 
broken by many comparatively low 
passes, and forms a succession of groups 
most of which attain to or exceed 
11,000 ft. 

Reckoning from NE. to SW., the first 
of these is the Scaletta group, including 
many summits over 10,000 ft.; but the 
highest — Piz Vadred— does not surpass 
10,610 ft. Separated from the last by 
the Sertig Pass is the Albula group, N. 
of the Albula Pass; it contains the Piz 
Kesch (11,211'), the highest summit in 
the ranges N. of the Inn, and Piz 
Uertsch (10,738'). The most exten¬ 
sive mountain group — which may 
conveniently be called the Julier group 
— lies between the Passes of the Albula 
and Julier, and includes the Piz d’Err 
(11,139'), Cima da Flix (10,945'), and 
Piz Munteratsch (11,106'). Closely 
connected with the Julier group, but 
drained by streams that flow altogether 


towards the Inn, is the small isolated 
group crowned by the Piz Ot( 10,660'), 
which may more conveniently be de¬ 
scribed in the next §. The Gravasalvas 
group, remarkable as containing the 
sources of the Inn, the Mera, and the 
Oberhalbstein Rhine, is the lowest of 
those here enumerated; its highest 
point, Piz Lungen, not surpassing 
10,400 ft. The considerable mountain 
mass enclosing the basin of the Averser 
Rhein, and separating the Aversthal 
from Val Bregaglia and the V. di S. 
Giacomo, is not known by any common 
designation. It culminates in the Piz 
d’Emet (10,502'), the Pizzo della Palii 
(10,374'),and the Pizzo Stella(10,266). 

Many of the high peaks above enu¬ 
merated may doubtless be visited from 
the Engadine ; but the greater glaciers 
lie on the N. side of the range, and 
should be explored from that direction. 
Molins and Bergun may both be re¬ 
commended as good heau-quarters for 
a mountaineer ; but the naturalist who 
wishes to devote time to exploring the 
Julier group may prefer the less com¬ 
fortable, but more conveniently placed, 
inn of Weissensteiri. 


Route A. 


COIRE TO SAMADEN, 

BY THE 

JULIER 


PASS. 

Post 

Eng. 



leagues 

miles 

Churwalden 


H 

6» 

Tiefenkasten 

• • 

8f 

Hi 

Tinzen 

• • 

21 

6f 

Molins 

• • 

H 

H 

Bivio Stalla 

• « 

2 

6 

Silva Plana 

. # 

H 

n 

Samaden . 

• 


n 




52A 


A post-road traversed twice daily by diligence 
in summer in 13 hrs. 

The increased resort of visitors to the 
waters of St. Moritz, and of tourists to 
the Engadine, has made this a much- 
frequented road. As it is by far the 
easiest way to approach the valley of 
the Inn from the side of Switzerland, 
it is here given precedence over the 





oC6 


RHiETIAN ALPS. § 35. ALBULA DISTRICT. 


other principal branches of the Albula 
valley. 

It has been already said that the 
streams which unite their waters in the 
Oberhalbstein Rhein flow into the 
Hinter Rhein near Thusis, and it might 
naturally be supposed that the road 
from the Rhine valley would follow the 
course of these waters in its way to the 
Oberhalbstein. But a glance at the 
map shows that this route would be a 
circuitous course ; and besides this, the 
defile between Tiefenkasten and Thusis 
is so narrow, that the construction of 
a carriage-road between those places 
has been a difficult undertaking. At 
the same time it may be seen that the 
Oberhalbstein valley, descending from 
S. to N., is to a great extent continued 
in the same direction towards Coire 
by a depression which at the centre 
does not exceed 5,089 feet in height, 
and which sends down a stream in one 
direction towards Coire, in the other 
towards the Albula. The stream lead¬ 
ing to Coire, called liabiosa , joins the 
Plessur torrent, issuing from the Schan- 
figg Thai, about 1 m. above Coire; and 
the post-road, commanding a fine view 
of the latter valley (Rte. E) up to the 
Strela Pass, mounts steeply above the 
1. bank of the united torrents, soon en¬ 
tering the glen of the Rabiosa. The 
ascent is throughout rather steep for 
wheeled vehicles, and the horses do 
not get out of a walk. After passing 
Malix, and below the ruined castle of 
Strassberg, the post station of 

Churwalden { Inns: Kreuz ; Krone), 
3,976 ft. above the sea, is reached. 
There are here considerable remains of 
a large monastery, and not far off of a 
convent, both destroyed during the wars 
of religion, owing, as some say, to the 
disreputable conduct of the inmates. 
A short way on the N. side of the 
watershed is Parpan, a neat mountain 
village, in a cold and bleak position ; 
and beyond it extends a bare tract, in¬ 
appropriately named Vulbella (5,089'), 
forming the summit of the pass between 
Coire and Tiefenkasten, but being in 
reality a deep depression between the 


range of the Std/zerhorn (8,458') to the 
W. (easily ascended from hence, and 
described in § 27, Rte. C), and the 
higher range to the E., including the 
Weisshorn (9,111'), Rothhorn (9,406'), 
and Lenzerhorn (9,544'). The pass 
commands a rather extensive view to 
the N. On the S. side the road de¬ 
scends gently by the E. side of a moun¬ 
tain tarn called Vatzer See (4,898'), 
and leaves to the rt. the stream which 
descends to join the Albula through 
the defile of Schyn. For several miles 
the road crosses a barren heathy tract 
(called Heide), leading in 71 m. from 
Churwalden to 

Lenz (Inn: Krone, good and cheap). 
The village, standing (4.331') at a great 
height above the Albula, commands a 
fine view, but this is better seen from 
the low hill betM een it and Obervatz. 
To the E. is the main valley of the 
Albula, dividing near Filisur into its 
two main branches. Soutlnvard, beyond 
the deep trench traversed by the Al¬ 
bula, opens the Oberhalbstein valley, 
and between this and the Albula the 
cluster of high peaks crowned by the 
Piz d’Aela (10.893 ). Westward,above 
the defile of Schyn, the traveller over¬ 
looks a portion of the Rhine valley, 
and the peaks W. of Thusis. 

Travellers bound for the Albula or 
Davos may follow a footpath, or take 
a rough char-road by Brienz to Alve- 
neu (Rte. C). The road descends at 
first gently from Lenz to Vatzerol , 
where, in 1471, the deputies of the 
Gotteshaus Bund, formed among the 
people of these valleys, met those ol 
the Grauer Bund from the Vordei 
Rhein valley, and the Zehngerichtes 
Bund, formed in Schanf.gg and Preetti- 
gau, and there constituted the Con¬ 
federation of the Graubiinden, oi 
Grisons League, which still survives, 
although its scope was enlarged by its 
admission as a canton into the Swiss 
Confederation. From Vatzerol the 
road descends rapidly in long zigzags 
to the banks of the Albula, which is 
crossed a short way above its junction 
with the torrent tromtheOberhalbstoiu. 




ROUTE A.-PIZ D’ERR. 


367 


at the village of Tiefenkasten (2,917').I 
with two Inns (zum Albula, good and 
clean ; H. Julier. large new house). The 
Oberhalbsteiu , extending from hence 
about 18 m. to the base of the Rocca- 
bella above Bivio Stalla, abounds in 
fine scenery both in the main valley 
and its numerous lateral tributaries, 
and deserves far more attention than it 
has commonly received from tourists. 
There are many ruins of mediaeval 
castles, and at various points on the 
road remains of a more remote period 
have been found,—not a surprising 
fact, since it leads to the Julier and 
Septimer Passes, once traversed by 
important Roman roads, and believed 
to have been also frequented by the 
earlier Celtic population of this region. 
The Julier road mounts by the rt. 
bank of the torrent, and before long 
enters the remarkable gorge of Stein, 
reaching in 1 hr. the hamlet of Bur- 
vein (3,90P), where a considerable mass 
of ancient coins, said to have been 
Celtic and Etruscan, were found in 
1786. High on the opposite bank is 
the village of Salux. Passing Confers 
(Inns: Steinbock; Kreuz), the traveller 
in 1^ hr. from Tiefenkasten reaches 
Schweiningen (4,059'), at the W. base of 
the Piz St. Michael (10,371'), and op¬ 
posite the opening of Val Nandro , a 
long and narrow glen, through which 
an unfrequented path mounts SSW. to 
the Aversthal. 

About j hr. farther on is Tinzen 
(4,229'), with one or two poor (?) coun¬ 
try Inns, the home of a famous chamois- 
hunter named Spinas, much respected 
in this valley. E. of the village is the 
opening of Val Err , interesting to the 
mountaineer as well as the geologist, 
as it divides the granitic group of the 
Piz d’Err from the three remarkable 
dolomitic peaks— Piz d’Aela (10,893'), 
Tiuzenhorn (10,276'), and Piz St. Mi¬ 
chael (10,371'), very difficult of access, 
and so sharp that little snow can rest 
upon them. They have all been 
climbed since 1865. Many details,chiefly 
geological, respecting the Piz d’Err 
and neighbouring ridges is given by 


I Professor Theobald in the ‘Jahres- 
bericht des Naturforschender Gesell* 
schaft Graubundens’ for 1860-1861. 
[A path mounts from Tinzen by the 
rt. bank of the torrent issuing from Val 
Err, and on reaching the upper level 
of the valley crosses to the 1. bank. 
Grey slate is the prevailing rock, but 
serpentine appears at many points on 
the 1. bank. At a group of chalets 
(6,385'), the main branch of the Val 
Err mounts SE. to the glacier-covered 
ridge that closes its head. In that 
direction a difficult pass into ValBever, 
at least 10.000 ft. in height, was made 
by MM. Studer and Escher. A shorter 
branch of the valley leads a little N. of 
E. from the chalets bv a tolerably easy 
pass immediately on the S. side of Piz 
d’Aela to the track of the Albula, 
which is reached about 1 hr. above 
Bergiin.] 

The high road mounts from Tinzen 
in about 2 m. to Roffna, and soon after 
crosses for the first time to the 1. bank 
of the Oberhalbstein Rhein, and reaches 
Molins — Germ. Miihlen — 4,793 ft. 
above the sea (Balzer’s Inn, comfort¬ 
able, civil landlord), a good station 
for a mountaineer or a naturalist. In 
the immediate neighbourhood rise 
several of the highest peaks of this 
district. On the opposite side of the 
valley two torrents descend from the 
Piz d’Err, but it does not appear that 
the summit has been reached from this 
side. The Piz d’Err includes three 
principal peaks—the northern (11,139'), 
which is the highest by a few feet; E. 
of this, overlooking the head of Val 
Bever, is a lower peak (10,699'); and 
S. of the first is the second in height 
(11,132'). To the S. of Piz d’Err is 
the Citna da Flix, also including three 
peaks, of which the two highest— 
(10,947') and (10,787')—lie close to¬ 
gether, and a southern summit 
(10,519') rises at the head of Val 
d’Agnelli. According to Theobald, 
the Cima da Flix may be reached from 
the southern of the two glens opening 
opposite to Molins (Val Flix?), or 
from a SE. arm of the same glen, called 




RHJETIAN ALPS. § 35. ALBULA DISTPJCT. 


/■» o 

ooo 

Val Savriez, and from hence the S. 
peak (‘ eastern peak,’ Theobald, but ?) 
of Piz d'Err is reached without further 
difficulty by the snowy ridge connect¬ 
ing them. A western promontory from 
Piz d’Err terminates in the Piz Ca- 
carne (8,924'). Here, about the junc¬ 
tion of the serpentine with metamor- 
phic slates, the botanist may find 
Ranunculus parnassifalius, Dianlhus 
glacialis, and Lychnis alpina. 

Molins stands at the junction with 
the Oberhalbstein Rhein of a torrent 
issuing from the Val Fuller, which 
here opens to the SW. On the NW. 
side of this glen is a high and rugged 
ridge crowned by the Piz d'Arblasch 
(10,512'), and the Piz Forbisch 
(10,689'). But these are surpassed by 
the adjoining peak of the Piz Plutta 
(11,109'). Rather more than 1 hr. 
above Molins the Val Faller divides 
into two branches at the chalets of 
Plan (6,342'). One branch of the val¬ 
ley, called Val Gronda, passes on the 
N. side of the Piz Platta which is (?) 
accessible from this side. The other 
branch—Val Bercla—mounts due S. 
on the E. side of Piz Platta and of the 
Fopperhorn (10,371'). Juf, in the 
Aversthal (Rte. K), may be reached 
from the head of Val Bercla by a rather 
high, but not difficult pass. It is also 
possible to reach Cresta, lower down 
in the same valley, by a much more 
arduous pass between the Piz Platta 
and the Fopperhorn. 

A short way from Molins the road 
returns to the rt. bank of the Oberhalb¬ 
stein Rhein, now reduced to the con¬ 
dition of a mountain torrent, and 
mounts beneath the ruins of Spludatsch 
to Marmorera, or Marmels (5,361'), a 
village about 1 hr. from Molins, stand¬ 
ing below the remains of two castles, 
one of them perched on a seemingly 
inaccessible rock. A Lombard dialect 
of Italian is spoken in the upper part 
of the valley. Bivio (5,827'), also 
called Stalla, the highest village of 
Oberhalbstein, stands, as the name im¬ 
ports, very near the junction of the 
tracks leading to the Julier and 


Septimer passes. The Oberhalbstein 
may be said to terminate at the base of 
the Roccabella (8,940'), SE. of Bivio. 
The track of the Septimer, leading to 
Val Bregaglia (Rte. I), mounts thence 
to SSW. through the Val Cavreccia, 
while the high road to the Julier lies 
due E., through a wild and somewhat 
dreary upland valley, between the 
Gravasalvas range to the S., and the 
Julier range, extending from the S. 
point of the Cima da Flix to the Mun- 
teratsch (11,106'). Two glens descend 
from the last-mentioned range towards 
the high road. That on the W. side 
of the pass is called Val d'Agnelli on 
the Swiss Federal map, and the other 
on the E. side is apparently known 
also by the same name. Casanna slate 
and verrucano appear in the latter 
glen, and may be traced eastward to 
the neighbourhood of St. Morifz and 
Samaden. The diligence employs 2 hrs, 
from Bivio to reach the summit of the 
Julier Pass (7,503'). Before doing so, 
the road passes a small group of houses 
called Vedutta. at the opening of the 
western Val d’Agnelli. There is here 
a tolerable mountain Inn, which affords 
convenient quarters for a naturalist. 
Though higher than most of the alpine 
passes practicable for carriages, the 
Julier is one of the easiest and safest. 
It is remarkably free from avalanches, 
and the snow is said to melt here 
earlier in the spring than is' usual at so 
great a height. On this account the 
pass has been known and used from 
the earliest times. The Romans, under 
Augustus, carried a military road from 
Chiavenna over the Maloja to Silva- 
plana, and thence over the Julier, in 
preference to the much more direct 
route of the Septimer; and the same 
course was commonly followed during 
the Middle Ages, when this was the 
most important commercial road from 
N. Italy to the L. of Constance. The 
present carriage-road was constructed 
in 1823, but for several years it was 
little frequented, owing to the neglected 
condition of the lower portion through 
the Oberhalbstein valley. It is now 




ROUTE B.—DEFILE OF SCIiYN. 


in good order; but since the completion 
of the t?pliigen road it has ceased to be 
used for traffic between (Joire and Lom¬ 
bardy. On the E. side of the summit 
are two roughly hewn columns which 
have furnished matter for much con¬ 
troversy. They have been by some 
attributed to Julius Ceesar, whose name 
would thus be connected with that of 
the pass ; but others refer their origin 
to the Celts, and the name to a Celtic 
deity. Jul. 

The road descends gently towards 
the E. until it reaches the siope over¬ 
looking the head of the Engadine, 
when some z gzags, cut off by the 
footpath, lead down to 

Siloaplana (Inns: Wilder Mann; 
Kreuz). This village, and the road by 
St. Moritz to Samaden, are described 
in § 36, Rte. A. 

Route B. 

THUSIS TO TIEFENKASTEN. 

4 to 5 hrs’. walk. New post-road. 

The road here described offers a far 
more interesting way for approaching 
the Julier, or the other passes de¬ 
scribed in the following Routes, than 
the high road from Coire to Tiefen- 
kasten (Rte. A). There is the further 
inducement, that a traveller who has 
not already seen the Via Mala may 
visit that remarkable defile and return 
to Thusis on the first day from Coire, 
joining the Julier road, or that of the 
Albula, early on the following day by 
a highly picturesque and agreeable 
path. A post-road from Thusis to 
Tiefenkasten along the 1. side of the 
Albula was opened for traffic in 1869. 
The track by the rt. side of that stream 
noticed below is more interesting. The 
name Schyn Pass, often applied to it, 
is incorrect. The Schyn is the ex¬ 
tremely steep and narrow ravine cut 
bv the Albula in its descent to join the 
liinter Rhein, and until the new road 
was made it was necessary to ascend 
to a great height above the stream, and 
then descend to Alvaschein. 

The new road descends from Thusis 


oGD 

to cross the Nolla and the Rhine and 
then turns N., ascending gently to Sils. 
Beyond this the road passes two ruined 
castles, and winds upwards through 
forest, with occasional views of the 
defile on the 1. through which the Al¬ 
bula descends to join the Rhine. As 
the mountains close together on either 
side the difficulties of the engineer in¬ 
creased, and several short tunnels are 
traversed before the road crosses the 
Solisbruckcs about 4 10 tt. above the 
Albula torrent. The new bridge re¬ 
places an older structure on the same 
foundations. The valley now opens 
out, and the road ascends to Alvaschein 
(3,337'), and amid very pleasingseenery, 
bears SE. till it joins the main road 
from Coire (last Rte.) opposite to 
Tiefenkasten. 

The track by the rt. bank of the Al¬ 
bula is more attractive to a pedestrian. 

Crossing the Rhine opposite Thusis, 
and avoiding the village of Sils, the way 
lies across a bridge over the Albula to 
Scharans, nearly 1 hr. ascending from 
Thusis. The village Inn commands a 
beautiful view of the Rhine valley. 
There is here a very ancient lime-tree, 
adorned by a rudely-carved image of 
the mythical king Rhtetus, who is not 
unfrequently transformed by the coun¬ 
try people into a saint. On the oppo¬ 
site side of the gorge of the Albula 
are the ruins of Campi, often visited 
from Thusis (§ 31, Rte. A.). The path 
from Scharans mounts partly through 
wood, partly along the face of rocks, 
till it reaches a height of 1,600 or 1.800 
ft. above the Albula. A considerable 
detour is necessary to cross the ravine 
cut by the torrent from the Vatzer See 
(Rte. A.), a little below the village of 
Obervatz , and an oratory is passed that 
commands a fine view to the W. On 
reaching the village of Alvaschein 
(3,337'), the traveller bound for the 
Julier road should descend to Tiefen- 
kasten. Should his direction be to the 
Albula or Davos, he should mount 
gently along the slope of the mountain 
to Vatzerol, and thence by Brienz. to 
Alveneu. 


PART II. 


B B 







370 


RllJETIAN ALPS, 


. § 35 . ALBULA DISTRICT. 


Route C. 

COIRE TO SAM ADEN, BY THE ALBULA 
PASS. 

Carriage-road Diligence daily in 12 hrs. 

An active traveller starting from 
Coire by the diligence at 5 a.m., may 
leave the high road at Alveneu, and 
reach Samaden as soon as the diligence. 
The new road is well made, but the; 
ascent is long and steep; so that an 
active walker will accomplish the dis¬ 
tance between Bergiin and Ponte in 
less time than a carriage. It is wiser 
to take advantage of the diligence as 
far as Alveneu, or even Bergiin, as in 
fine weather the slopes between those 
places are extremely hot. A two- 
horse carriage from Coire to Sama¬ 
den costs 120 fr. The foot-path from 
Lenz (Rte. A), and the char-road which 
turns off near Vatzerol, pass along the 
slopes N. of the Albula to Bricnz , and 
then below the very picturesque rums I 
of the castle of Belfort. Leaving to 
the 1. the road to the village of the 
same name, the road to Bergiin de¬ 
scends to the Baths of Alveneu, on the 
rt. bank of the stream. There is here 
a rather rough but clean- looking bath¬ 
ing establishment for the patients who 
frequent the sulphureous waters that 
have given this place a local celebrity. 
Some unusual plants, such as Astraga¬ 
lus monspessulanus , Tommasinia verti- 
cillaris, and Centaurea rhcetica, show 
the warmth of the climate of the val¬ 
ley. A short way above the Baths the 
char-road crosses the considerable 
stream of the Landwasser, issuing from 
the valley of Davos (Rte. D), and then 
mounts gently in about 1 hr. from the 
Baths to Filisur (3,474'), a pretty vil¬ 
lage with a country Inn, standing under 
the imposing ruins of Greifenstein. 


Mines of silver, copper, and iron have 
been worked in the neighbourhood. 
A glen lying S. of the village, called 
Val Sparlotsch , leads up to a hollow 
between the Piz d’Aela and Tinzen- 
horn. An interesting walk might 
probably be made by crossing the 
ridge between those peaks, and de¬ 
scending through the Val Err toTinzen 
(Rte. A). 

Above Filisur the valley contracts, 
and the road passes to the 1. bank of 
the Albula, but does not begin to ascend 
rapidly till after passing some aban¬ 
doned smelting-houses at a place called 
Bellaluna. Here the paved track, still 
passable for light chars, enters a very 
; picturesque defile, called Bergiiner 
Stein. It has been compared to the 
Via Mala, with which it has nothing in 
common except the fact that it is a 
defile. The finest part is above a 
bridge where the road returns to the 
rt. bank, and is carried for nearly ^ m. 
along the face of the nearly vertical 
rocks. Nearly 2 hrs. from Filisur are 
required to reach the point where in an 
opening of the valley stands the moun¬ 
tain village of 

Bergiin (4,.557')- Excellent quarters 
are found here at the house of the 
Landamman Cloeta, now opened as a 
regular inn (zum Piz d’Aela). The 
position of this village has many attrac¬ 
tions for the mountaineer. To the SW. 
rises the very bold dolomite peak of 
the Piz d’Aela (10.893 ). To the E. 
is the opening of Val Tuors, which de¬ 
serves more attention than it has yet 
received. The lower part commands 
very fine views, especially of the Piz 
d'Aela, while the upper end leads to 
some of the highest peaks of this 
group. 

[There is a rough track, passable for 
chars, as far as the hamlet of Ponte 
d’Alp, 2 hrs. from Bergiin. Here Val 
Tuors divides : a NNE. branch mounts 
between the Piz Forun (10,010') and 
a steep ridge whose highest summit is 
the Hoch Ducan (10,082'), and leads to 
the lakes of Raveischg (Rte. H), by 
which the traveller may descend into 








ROCTE D.—ALBULA PASS. 


Val Sulsanna, or reach Davos Platz, by 
the Sertig Pass. In the opposite direc¬ 
tion another branch of Val Tuors leads 
to Piz Uertsch (10,738'), seemingly 
accessible from this side. The E. 
branch of Val Tuors, called Saliit on 
the Federal Map, is probably the most 
interesting. The torrent flows from the 
Vtidred da Porchabella, a large glacier 
on the N. side of Piz Kesch (11,211'), 
which also feeds the torrent at the 
head of Val Sulsanna. The remark¬ 
able tower-like peak of Piz Kesch 
was attained, in 1864, by Messrs. 
Tuckett and Fowler, with C. Michel 
and M. Payot. From the Platzli chalets 

2 j hrs. above Bergiin, they reached in 
hrs. the ridge above the V. da Porcha¬ 
bella, overlooking the head of the Es- 
chia Glacier. From this—called Eschia 
Pass —they afterwards descended in 

3 hrs. to Ponte. From the same point 
they reached the peak in l£ hr. A 
rather lower point bad been previously 
attained by M. Coaz.] 

Above Bergiin the ascent by the new 
road to the Albula begins. To the 1. is 
passed the opening of Val Tisch , 
leading up to some abandoned iron 
mines high up on the NW. side of Piz 
Uertsch. Fully 1 hr. above Bergiin, 
the road crosses to the 1. bank, at a 
point where an opening in the range to 
the W. leads up to a depression, or col, 
S. of Piz d’Aela, leading by Val Err to 
Tinzen. At the chalets of Naz (5,725'), 
the wild glen of Muglix opens to SW., 
and the road of the Albula turns east¬ 
ward and maintains that direction till 
it enters the Engadine at Ponte. After 
passing several chalets, the traveller 
in 2^ hrs.’steady walking from Bergiin 
reaches Wcissenstein (6,824'). A new 
inn has been opened here, which may 
attract mountaineers and botanists by 
the many rare plants found in the 
neighbourhood of the pass. Of these 
the following deserve to be noted :— 
Lychnis alpina, Oxytropis lapponicu, 
Saxifraga planifolia, Senecio car nitAi- 
cus, Crepis hyoseridifolia , Campanula 
cenisia , Polemonium coeruleum, Kobnsia 
curicina, and Carex in igua. The small | 


n i 

oil 

lake near ttie inn, which is the chief 
source of the Albula, formerly pro¬ 
duced excellent trout, but they have 
disappeared since it has been drained 
to utilise some peat on its shores. Above 
the Weissenstein Inn the scenery is 
very wild, and the new road makes a 
wide sweep to the rt. Towards the 
upper part of the pass it lies amidst 
scattered blocks of stone, where scarce 
a trace of vegetation remains in view, 
with patches of snow on the slopes to 
the rt. 

The Albula Pass (7,589') and the 
valleys leading to it on either side 
form a long furrow between two 
parallel ranges, of which the higher 
northern ridge, crowned by Piz Uertsch, 
is chiefly formed of sedimentary rocks, 
the main peak being composed of oo- 
lomite. The southern ridge is a pro¬ 
montory from the mass of Piz d’Err, 
separating the Albula from the Val 
Bever. It is mainly composed oi 
gneiss or granite, but the summit im 
mediately S. of the pass, called Piz 
Giumels (9,623'), contains a consider- 
ble mass of white gypsum, which is 
supposed to have originated the name 
of the pass. There is no difliculty in 
crossing the ridge due »S. of the Weis¬ 
senstein Inn, leading to Bevers through 
Val Bever (§ 36, Rte. C), a shorter and 
more interesting mountaineer's route 
than that by Ponte. Piz Uertsch is 
said to be easilv accessible from the 
summit of the Albula, but the Editor 
has no account of the expedition. 

The descent from the Aibula Pass 
lies for some way on the S. slope of 
the upland valley, and is at first rather 
gentle. Lower down it enters larch 
woods, and lies for the most part on the 
1. bank of the torrent. l| hr. suffices 
to reach the main valley of the En¬ 
gadine at 

Ponte (5.548'). This village, and the 
road between it and Samaden, are 
described in § 36, Rte. A. 







372 RILETIAN ALPS. § 35 . ALBULA DISTRICT. 


Route D. 


I.ENZ TO KLOSTERS, BY DAVOS. 


Alveneu . . 

Hrs.’ 

walking 

1 3 

• 1 4 

Eng. 

miles 

H 

Wiesen 

12 

• 4 

H 

Glaris 

• 2 * 

Of 

Davos am Platz . 

. 2 

6 

Klosters . . 

. 2f 



101 

* 3 ^ 


In the preceding Rte. and in IIte. A, 
the two branches of the Albula stream 
that lead to the valley of the Inn have 
been described; it is now necessary to 
uotice the third of the main branches 
of the same stream which drains a con¬ 
siderable valley parallel to that of the 
Inn. but flows in an opposite direction 
— from NE. to SW. This valley, 
named Davos , meaning behind, or ‘ at 
the back of the world/ is said to have 
been discovered in the 13th century, 
and colonised by settlers from the 
Upper Valais. It is connected with 
the main valley of the Albula by a 
narrow and difficult defile, through 
which the Landwasser descends to join 
that stream; but the easiest access is 
by the road across a low pass connect¬ 
ing the head of the valley with Klosters 
in the Praettigau. 

The road between Lenzand Platzhas 
been improved of late years, but is. in 
places, rough and narrow. It is prac¬ 
ticable for a light char, here called bery- 
wagen , but little, if any, time is gained. 
It is not always too easy to find a 
vehicle at Lenz. A pedestrian, profit¬ 
ing by short cuts, may much reduce the 
distance between Alveneuand Glaris. 

After reaching Brienz, the next 
village to Lenz (noticed in Rte. C), 
the traveller should choose the road 
to the 1., keeping at a considerable 
height above the river, instead of de¬ 
scending to the baths, and in about 
11 hr. from Lenz will reach Alveneu 
(4,344'). The church is a curious 
specimen of renaissance architecture, 
and contains some good specimens of 
early wood-carving. Standing on a 
steep slope, 1,100 ft. above the river, 
the village commands a very fine view 


| of the peaks to the S. The road into 
the Davos valley traverses Schnntten 
and Wiesen, both standing at a great 
height above the bottom of the valley. 
It winds along the mountain slopes, 
making every now and then a con¬ 
siderable circuit in order to cross the 
deep furrows excavated by torrents. 
Wiesen , with good rustic quarters at 
the house of Palmi, stands at 4,770 ft., 
opposite to Jenisberg, a village at a still 
higher level above the 1. bank of the 
Landwasser. Though little more than 
a mile apart, it takes fully an hour to 
follow the path to that place across the 
valley, where a fine new bridge spans 
the torrent at 250 ft. above the water. 
From Jenisberg the traveller in search 
of a view may ascend the Stulsergrat 
(8,471') and descend by its W. side to 
Filisur. It is not a much longer course 
for a pedestrian bound for the head of 
the valley to. pass by Jenisberg, and 
descend thence to Schmelzboden, than 
to follow the char-road by the rt. bank. 
This pursues a very circuitous course, 
winding r*und three deep ravines cut 
by lateral torrents, before it gains a 
projecting buttress which commands a 
fine view of the valley, and whence it 
descends bv zigzags to the level of the 
Landwasser. The torrent is crossed 
and recrossed, and after passing some 
abandoned smelting-works at Hof- 
nungsau—the place is best known as 
Schmelzboden —the road begins to as¬ 
cend along the 1. bank through the 
narrow detile leading to Glaris (4.770'). 
Another more interesting way from 
Wiesen to that village, practicable only 
on foot, is by a path along the steep 
slope above the rt. bank, turning out 
of the char-road near the point where 
it begins to descend towards the Land¬ 
wasser. This track is feared m winter 
and spring on account of avalanches, 
but is quite safe in summer, and com¬ 
mands fine views. Through the Bd- 
renthal , a lateral glen opening W. of 
Glaris, it is not difficult to reach Arosa. 
mentioned in next Rte. Above Glaris 
the road ascends gently along the rt. 
bank. On the opposite bank is a 








ROUTE E.-SCIIANFIGG. 


37 


small bathing establishment called 
Spina Bad, intended for patients who 
use the waters of a sulphureous spring 
which breaks out on the slope of the 
mountain 1,000 ft. higher up. About 
1 hr. above Glaris is Frauenkirch, where 
the Sertigthal (Rte. Ii) opens to SSE., 
and a path from Arosa, by the Maycn- 
t'elder Furka (8,022'), descends into 
the Davos valley. A walk of 1 hr. 
more leads to the principal village in 
the valley, 5,105 fr. above the sea. It 
is here known as Platz, but as that 
name is commonly applied in the Gri- 
sons to indicate the chief village or 
hamlet of a valley, it is called, when 
spoken of elsewhere, 

Davos am Platz (Inns: Schweizerhof, 
Post; Curhaus ; all very fair, the first 
two new ; Zum Strela, rustic, not bad ; 
restaurant in the Rathhaus). The head 
of the Davos valley is a purely pas¬ 
toral district, surrounded by mountains 
about 9,000 ft. in height. The scenery 
is very pleasing, though not of the first 
order, and as many upland valleys con¬ 
verge at this point, many excursions are 
open to the mountaineer. ‘ The Rath- 
haus,’ until lately the only inn, ‘ was 
formerly decorated with more than 
thirty wolves’ heads slain in the 
neighbourhood—proof of the preva¬ 
lence of these animals. A wolf-net 
(Wolf-gam) is still hung up here, 
but the animals have nearly disap¬ 
peared.’ [M.] The path of the Strela 
leading hither from Coire is described 
in the next Rte., and the passes into 
the Engadine by the Fluela, Scaletta, 
and Sertig Passes will be found in the 
following Rtes. 

The most interesting excursion from 
Platz is the ascent of the Schwarzhorn, 
described in Rte. G. A shorter and 
easier walk is the ascent of the Weiss- 
fiuh. There are two peaks bearing the 
same name, about equally near to Platz, 
the one on the N., the other on the S. 
side of the Strela Pass. The higher 
and more interesting of the two is that 
on the N. side. The way is by the 
road to Klosters, until after passing the 
Schiabach, and reaching the hamlet of 


Dorfli. when the course lies to the I., 
up the slopes of the Dorfliberg. On 
reaching the middle region of the 
mountain the way is about WNW., 


through a stonv 


glen. 


From the 


ridge at its head, the summit of the 
Weissfl.uk (9,262'), formed in part of 
gypsum, whence the name, is seen 
nearly due W., and is reached without 
difficulty by crossing a slight depres¬ 
sion and mounting over snow-beds. 

About H m. N. of Platz is the ham¬ 
let of Dorfli, known elsewhere as 
Davos Dorfli (two tolerable Inns), pret¬ 
tily situated in the midst of green 
meadow’s, and but a short way from 
the Davoser See (5,121'), a mountain 
lake producing excellent trout. The 
way to Klosters is by a good new road 
on the W. side of the lake, which then 
mounts to a very low and easy pass, 

; sometimes called Laret Pass (5,338'). 
The summit is reached at a solitary 
mountain inn called St. Wolfgang, 
and the descent, after passing a little 
dark tarn near which are the chalets 
of Laret, keeps due N. along the rt. 
Dank of a mountain stream to Klosters 
(§ 34, Rte. D). 


Route E. 

COIRE TO DAVOS AM PLATZ, BY THE 
STRELA PASS. 

i 4 hrs. to L'mgwies. 6 lirs. thence to Davos am 
Platz. 

It has been seen, in the foregoing 
Rtes., that the drainage of the Davos 
valley, being poured into the Albula, 
and then into the Rhine, reaches Coire 
by a very circuitous course, fully three 
times the actual distance between that 
town and the head of the valley. The 
traveller may avoid that circuit, and 
enter Davos from Coire by a very direct 
course, through the populous valley of 
Schavflgg, and over the Strela Pass. 
The course here described lies through 
much agreeable and picturesque sce- 
[ nery, but the ascent from Coire is 






374 


PJLETIAN ALPS. § 35 . ALEULA DISTRICT. 


long and becomes somewhat monoto¬ 
nous, so that it is probably a better 
arrangement, when practicable, to take 
the pass in the opposite direction. 

From the summit of the Strela Pass, 
the main branch of the Schanfigg val¬ 
ley, drained by the Plessur, falls due 
W. to the village of Maladers above 
Coire. It is one of the most populous 
in the Alps, being crowded with vil¬ 
lages, hamlets, or scattered houses, 
perched on steep slopes at a great 
height above the torrent, especially on 
the northern sunny declivity. The 
mountains on either side are furrowed 
by many deep ravines, and the paths 
leading up the valley, and connecting 
the villages together, are forced to 
make many detours. This circum¬ 
stance much increases the time neces¬ 
sary for reaching the pass, which looks 
deceptively near from the neighbour¬ 
hood of Coire, but at the same time 
adds variety and interest to the 
scenery. 

Those who would shorten the day’s 
walk may reach the village of Tschiert- 
schen, on the S. side of the valley, 
in a light char, in 2 hrs. from Coire, 
and continue their rte. by a footpath 
on the 1. bank as far as Molins, where 
it crosses the Plessur and mounts to 
Peist. For pedestrians, the way along 
the N. side of the valley is to be pre¬ 
ferred. 

‘ The path mounts rapidly to the 
village of Maladers (3,287'), from 
which the col is plainly visible, but its 
apparent proximity is most deceptive. 
Thence the traveller's course is along 
the hill side, high above the rt. bank of 
the Plessur, making numerous long 
dips into the lateral ravines, and rising 
and falling perpetually. The path is 
well made, almost approaching the 
dimensions of a char-road, and carried 
mostly through luxuriant pine woods, 
which afford a grateful shade. When 
two or more paths diverge, it is safe, 
as a general rule, to take the lower or 
rt-hand one. Passing through Castrel 
and St. Peter’s, the village of Prist 
(4,383') is reached in 4f hrs.’ steady 


| walking from Coire. There is a small 
inn on the 1. hand side of the path, 
just above the public fountain, where 
two clean beds, scanty food, and fair 
red wine may be obtained. The carved 
inscriptions on the houses here are the 
best in the valley. It is a hot and shade¬ 
less walk of ljhr. to Lanywies (4,518'), 
the last village (with a poor inn), where, 
for the first time since leaving Coire, 
the traveller is on a level with the bed 
of the stream.’—[A. W. M.] 

Here the Plessur is formed by the 
junction of several mountain torrents. 
The principal stream descends NE. 
from an upland glen nearly 8 m. in 
length, forming an acute angle with 
the course of the main valley. At the 
extreme SW. end of this glen, a wild 
and solitary ravine called Welsck To'oe !, 
it is possible to cross the ridge, and de¬ 
scend upon Alveneu. There are also 
passes to the SE. leading to Frau- 
enkirch by the Mayenfelder Furha 
(8,022'), and to Glaris by the Biiren 
Tobel. 

[In a lateral opening on the W. side 
of the Welsch Tobel is Arosa (6,208'), 
one of the highest hamlets in this part 
of the canton, where potatoes are still 
cultivated. Rough quarters for the 
night may be obtained at the house of 
Obmann Hold. Several mountain ex¬ 
cursions interesting to the geologist 
and the botanist may be made from 
Arosa. The most interesting to the 
mountaineer is towards the SW. by 
two mountain tarns, the Schwelli See 
and TElpli See, to the summit of the 
Schbne Rleise (9,794'), lying at the 
SW. extremity of the upland glen 
containing those little lakes. The 
adjoining summit of the Parpuner 
liothhorn (9,518') may be ascended, 
and the traveller may descend to Par- 
pan, on the road from Coire to Lenz 
(Rte. A). Another excursion, which 
will well reward the botanist, is to the 
red sandstone summit of the Sand- 
imbel (9,075'), on the E. side of the 
Welsch Tobel, reached through a re¬ 
cess in the hills called Teufenberg. It 
is easy to descend from the ridge to 






ROUTE F.—FLUELA PASS. 


"NViesen in Davos (Rte. D). To reach 
Coire from Arosa, the geologist may 
best ascend by the Sattel Alp to a 
summit called Weiss horn (8,701'), NW. 
of the village, and not to be con¬ 
founded with a higher peak of the 
same name due E. of Parpan. Ser¬ 
pentine and dolomite are the prevailing 
rocks in the range N E. of Arosa, which 
is sometimes known by the collective 
name Churer Alp cm.} 

A litile above Langwies a tributary 
of the Plessur descends from the NE. 
through a glen called Eundey, through 
which it is not difficult to reach Cen¬ 
ters and Kiiblis in the Praettigau 
(§ 34, Rte. D). The way to Davos 
mounts about due E. from Langwies 
along the rt. bank of a stream descend¬ 
ing from the pass, through wild and 
pleasing scenery. 

* The path becomes vague in places, 
but it is not possible to go far wrong, 
and in 1 hr. the chalets of the Schmit- 
ten Alp are reached, where milk may 
be procured. From hence the track 
nearest the stream should be kept, 
until above the last chalets on the 
Haupten Alp, when it is necessary to 
cross to the 1. bank, and the last ascent 
commences. This from below appears 
to be rather troublesome, but is, in 
fact, perfectly easy. The path is very 
faint, but sufficient to mark the way, 
which lies over steepish banks of shale, 
interspersed with patches of snow, until, 
in 2 hrs. from Schmitten, the Strela 
Puss , a broad ridge 7,799 ft. above 
the sea, is surmounted. The prospect, 
looking back right down the long 
smiling valley, backed by the moun¬ 
tains beyond the Rhein Thai, is 
pleasing, while in front there is an 
extensive view of the Scaletta and Al- 
bula Alps. The most conspicuous are, 
in front, the Weisshorn and Schwarz- 
horn beyond the Davos Thai, with the 
dark pyramid of the Piz Linard peer¬ 
ing over them, and, on the rt., a 
fine snowy mass, probably the Piz 
Kesch, towering above a considerable 
glacier. The descent is straight for¬ 
ward and very gentle, as far as the 


r> — “ 

ot o 

Strela Alp, where a view is opened out 
down the Davos Thai, beyond the ex¬ 
treme end of which is seen a group of 
peaks, the chief of which—Piz d’Aela— 
bears a striking resemblance, on a small 
scale, to the Matterhorn.’ [A. W. M.] 
At the Strela Alp one path descends 
direct to Dorfli (Rte. D) and another 
bearing to rt. leads, chiefly through 
forest, in 1 hr. from the pass, to Platz. 


Route F. 

DAVOS AM PLATZ TO SUS, BY THE 
FLUELA PASS. 

New road, about 22 m. No public convey¬ 
ance. Vehicles may be hired from the post¬ 
master at Platz. 

Three nearly parallel lateral valleys 
enter Davos near to the principal vil¬ 
lage, Am Platz, and each is connected 
with a pass leading into the Engadine. 
In each of them the torrent, which 
had flowed about due NNW., is bent 
to the westward as it approaches its 
junction with the Landwasser. Thus 
the stream from the Sertigthal (Rte. 
II), the westernmost of these valleys, 
is poured into the Landwasser at 
Frauenkirch. Next comes the Disch- 
mathal (Rte. G), whose torrent enters 
i the main valley a short distance above 
Platz, while that issuing from the glen 
called Fluela joins the Landwasser at 
Dorfli. The ridge dividing Fluela 
from Dischma, culminating in the 
Schvvarzhorn, is a promontory from 
the mass of the Scaletta Alps. Hence 
it happens that the first of these glens 
leads by the Fluela Pass to the En¬ 
gadine at Sus, while the line of the 
Dischmathal, Scaletta Pass, and Val 
Sulsanna, conducts the traveller by the 
S. side of the same group to Capella in 
the Engadine, fully 12 m. higher up in 
the valley of the Inn than Siio. 

The new road over the Fluela Pass 
is a considerable short cut for travellers 






37G 


IIILETIAN ALPS. § 35. aLBULA DISTRICT. 


from the .North going to the Lower 
Engadine. it is announced that in 
the summer of 1873 a diligence will 
run direct from Landquart to Tarasp. 
See § 34, Rte. D. 

The road enters the Fluela valley at 
Dbrfli, and ascends, chiefly through 
forest, on the rt. side of the torrent. 
About li hr . from Platz is a new rustic 
inn (Alpenrose?), and \ hr. farther 
another very poor hostelry at Tschug- 
geu, about half-way to the top. The 
remainder of the ascent is wild and 
rather dreary, the stream being crossed 
and recrossed several times. 

The summit of the Flttela Pass 
(7,891') is close to two small tarns, 
called Schotten See. Here is a little 
mountain inn, convenient for the ascent 
of the Seliwarzhorn, now a common ex¬ 
cursion. To the N. is a peak called 
Fluela Weisshorn (10.135'), to distin¬ 
guish it from many other Weisshorns 
in the same district, separating the 
pass from the head of the Vereina- 
thal (§ 34, ltte. D), while to the S. 
rises the Sehwarzhorn (10,338'), which 
may be ascended from this side as 
easily as from Diirrenboden (Rte. G). 
The descent to Sirs lies due E.; the road 
winds down a rather steep slope, keep¬ 
ing chiefly to the 1. bank of the torrent, 
and passing a place called Bei den 
Kehren, feared for spring avalanches. 
Before long an alpine glen opens to 
the S., through which the torrent from 
the Grialetsch Glacier descends into 
the head of Val Susasca, as the valley 
is called that leads to Siis. Keeping to 
the 1. bank, the road is joined, above 
half way down the Val Susasca, by the 
path descending Val Fless from the 
Vereina Pass (§ 34, Rte. D), and finally 
crosses to the rt. bank immediately 
above the village of Sits (§ 36, Rte.A). 
The traveller there finds a tolerable 
country inn, or may procure a vehicle 
with which to push on to the Baths 
of Tarasp. 


Route G. 

DAVOS A51 PLATZ TO SCANFS, BY THE 

SCALETTA PASS — ASCENT OF THE 

SCHWARZHORN. 

This is an uninteresting pass unless, 
as is quite possible, the ascent of the 
Sehwarzhorn be combined w ith it; but 
it is useful, as affording the shortest 
route from Davos to the Upper Enga¬ 
dine. There is a char-road up the 
Dischma Thai to Diirrenboden; a drive 
of 2| hrs., or walk of 3 hrs., thence 
over the pass to Scanfs in the Engadine 
is 5 hrs.’ walking. For the ascent of 
the Sehwarzhorn 4 hrs. must be added. 

The Dischma Thai . which opens out 
to the SE., a little above Am Platz, is 
a long dreary valley, almost devoid 
of interest. It is closed at its head by 
the considerable mass of the Scaletta 
Glacier, which, with the dark obelisk 
of the Sehwarzhorn on the E. side of 
the valley, will probably absorb the 
attention of the traveller. 

Diirrenboden (6,644') consists of a 
few huts, in one of which, more 
respectable than its neighbours, fair 
quarters for a night, and abundance of 
milk, may be had. Above this the 
valley forks. To the left, passing be¬ 
tween the Sehwarzhorn and the foot of 
the Scaletta Glacier, which comes down 
from the Piz Vadred (10,610'), lies the 
way by the rarely-traversed Grialetsch 
Pass to Siis in the Engadine ; the 
ascent to it appears quite easy. The 
path to the Scaletta Pass keeps to the 
rt., over steep slopes of rock and shale, 
mounting rapidly until an extensive 
plateau is reached, which early in the 
season is covered with snow. The 
pass is seen straight in front, and to 
reach it there is a choice of two tracks; 
one, on the 1. or W. side of the valley, 








ROUTE G. — SCALETTa SCHWARZHORN. 


o — f- 

Ol i 


under the Bocktenhom (10,038'); the 
other, on the rt. side, along the base of 
the cliffs supporting the Scaletta Gla¬ 
cier. The latter appears preferable, 
but by either a considerable tract of 
snow must be crossed before reaching 
the pass, 8,613 ft. in height, in if hr. 
from Diirrenboden. There is a small 
Berghiitte, or refuge, on the summit, 
the appearance of which is the reverse 
of inviting. In neither direction is 
there much view; in fact few passes of 
the same height are so devoid of attrac¬ 
tion. The descent into the Sulsanna 
Thai is due S. over gentle slopes of 
shale varied with patches of snow, 
until the Fontana Alp (7,212') is 
reached. From hence, by following 
the arm of the valley to the rt., Davos 
or Bergiin may be reached by the 
Sertig Pass (Rte. H). The path to the 
Engadine turns sharp to the 1., and 
leads by a rapid descent to the lower 
valley. The torrents from the glaciers 
of the Piz Kesch, on the S. side of the 
valley, are troublesome to cross when 
swollen. The Val Sulsanna is a de¬ 
gree more interesting than the Dischma 
Thai, not being quite so bare of vegeta¬ 
tion, but presents no features likely to 
detain a traveller. It is traversed by 
a good pa h, which, after passing 
through Sulsanna (5,486'), the only 
village, falls into the great diligence- 
road, traversing the Engadine, at Ca- 
pella, about 35 min. below Scanfs, 
which is reached in 3j hrs. from the 
col. Although the track from Diirren- 
boden to the Fontana Alp is ill traced, 
no guide is needed for this pass in 
clear weather. Scanfs (Inn : Traube) 
is noticed in § 36, Rte. A. 

Ascent of the Schwarzhorn. The as¬ 
cent of the Schwarzhorn (10,338') may 
be made from Diirrenboden in 2% hrs. 
There are few points of the same ele¬ 
vation, accessible in so short a time, 
from which so gorgeous a panorama 
may be obtained, but the expedition 
is as yet little known. No guide is 
required by a practised mountaineer, 
for although the ascent from below 
looks awkward, it is in reality quite 


free from difficulty. ‘ Crossing the 
Dischma Bach, the steep grass slopes 
on its rt. bank are climbed, for 1 hr. 
bearing rather to the 1. Then straight 
running should be made for a slight 
depression on the southern ridge of the 
mountain, considerably below the sum¬ 
mit. Particular care should be taken 
not to endeavour to strike this too high, 
and so get too much under the actual 
peak, the western face of which is very 
precipitous, though quite accessible to 
a good cragsman. The rte. lies over 
banks of snow, succeeded by a steepish 
rock chimney, above which easy slopes 
of shale lead to the broad grat, looking 
down upon the Schwarzhorn Glacier 
and the track of the Fluela Pass. 
Turning to the 1., this grat must be 
followed, until, after passing over al¬ 
ternate slopes of rock and snow which 
are neither steep nor present any other 
difficulty, the summit is reached. This 
is a very small rocky point, and falls 
away steeply on all sides, except that 
by which it has been approached. The 
view is of the most superb character, 
especially looking E. along the whole 
range of the Tyrolese Alps from the 
CEtzthal group to the Orteler; and S., 
w r here the great chain extending from 
the Bernina Pass to the Lake of Como 
is seen right opposite to the spectator, 
and therefore probably to greater ad¬ 
vantage than from the better-known 
Piz Languard, where the same view is 
seen sideways, the great mass of the 
Bernina shutting out the rest of the 
chain. Of single peaks, the Piz Ber¬ 
nina, Piz Roseg, and Monte della 
Disgrazia are most conspicuous, the 
latter towering above the vast expanse 
of the Roseg Glacier. But the whole 
scene is indescribable, and must leave 
an indelible impression on the mind 
of every one fortunate enough to be 
favoured with a clear day. The de¬ 
scent to Diirrenboden may be effected 
in lj hr.’ [A. W. M.] The traveller 
must not confound the Schwarzhorn 
here described, which might con¬ 
veniently be called Scaletta Schwarz¬ 
horn, with the higher peak of the same 





378 


RILETIAN ALPS. § 35. ALBULA district. 


name in the central group of the 
Silvretta Alps (§ 34, Rte. E). 

The ascent of Piz Vadrcd ( 11,610') 
is far more difficult than that of the 
Schwarzhorn. The second peak was 
reached for the first time by Mr. 
Freshfield; and the western point, 
higher by 30 ft., by MM. Hartmann 
and Fitch, in 1807. Starting from 
Diirrenboden with Jenni and Stiefel, 
a very active c.imher from the Disch- 
mathal, they encountered no real diffi¬ 
culty until they reached the base of 
the highest peak, which involved two 
hrs.’ of very stiff, if not dangerous, 
rock-climbing. 

Mr. Girdlestone has effected a pass, 
suggested in the second edition of this 
work, from Diirrenboden to theEngadine 
by the Grialetsch and Sursura Glaciers. 


Route H. 

DAVOS AM PLATZ TO SCANF8, DY THE 
SERTIG PASS. 

About R£ brs.’ walking, exclusive of halts. 

The Sertigthal is the most interest 
ing in point of scenery of those lead¬ 
ing from Davos to the Engadine. A 
rough char-road turns aside from that 
leading from Platz to Frauenkirch 
(Rte. D), and mounts along the rt. 
bank of the torrent to Dbrfli (6,102'), 
the highest hamlet of the Sertigthal, 
about 2f hrs. from Platz. A little 
higher up the valley forks. One 
branch, called Ducanthal , mounts to 
SW. by the W. side of the Hock 
Ducan (10,082'), to a pass between the 
Ducan range and the Krachenhorn 
(9,495'), whence the Stulserthal de¬ 
scends in the same direction to Bella- 
luna on the Albula road above Filisur 
(Rte. C). The other branch of the 
Sertig—the Kiihalpthal —is that leading 
jn about hrs. from Davos to the 


Sertig Pass (9,062'), lying imme¬ 
diately W. of the Kiihalpthalhorii 
(10,125'). It commands a very fine 
view of the Piz Kesch and the great 
Porchabella Glacier on its N. slope. 
The ascent of this, the highest peak 
N. of the Engadine, long deemed in¬ 
accessible, is noticed in Rte. C. About 
-j hr. below the Sertig Pass are the 
Lakes da Raveischg, a group of small 
lakes occupying the summit level 
of a ridge connecting the head of 
Veil Tuors with the Val Sulsanna. 
The way to the Engadine lies to the 1. 
through the latter valley, while it is 
equally easy to reach Bergiin on the 
road of the Albula by bearing to the 
rt., and reaching the char-road at Ponts 
d’Alp (Rte. C). The descent to Val 
Sulsanna is ill traced, but nowhere 
difficult, provided the traveller keep to 
the 1. bank of the stream. On the op¬ 
posite side, a considerable torrent from 
the Vadred da Porchabella enters the 
valley. In about 1 ^ hr. from the top 
of the pass the path joins that from 
the Scaletta Pass at the Foutana Alp, 
mentioned in the last Rte., and de¬ 
scends to Capella in the Engadine. 


Route I. 

BIVIO TO CASACCIA, BY THE SEPTI3IER 
PASS. 

4 hrs.’ walking—A paved bridle-track. 

In the preceding Rtes. the mountain 
ranges and passes between the Rhine 
and the upper valley of the Inn have 
been described. It is now necessary 
to notice those lying between the Plin- 
ter Rhein and the Yal Bregaglia. The 
last-named valley is orographically a 
continuation of the great line of depres¬ 
sion marked by the valley of the Inn, 
but its waters, instead of being carried 




ROUTE Iv.-AVERSTIIAL. 


through that river into the Black Sea, 
form the Mera, and help to fill the 
basin of the Lake of Como. 

The Septimer Pass, connecting the 
head of the Oberhalbstein (Rte. A) 
with that of Val Bregaglia, is, next to 
the Splugen, the lowest and most direct 
of those connecting Lombardy with the 
Lake of Constance, and as before the 
construction of the present carriage- 
road by the Splugen, it was far the 
safer and easier of access, it became a 
frequented pass at an early period, and 
was certainly known to the Romans. 
But though only 79 ft. higher than the 
Julier, and shorter by fully 4 hrs., it 
has always been considered a less 
safe and easy pass, and more liable 
to be blocked up by snow in winter ; it 
consequently never attained the com¬ 
mercial importance acquired by the 
rival pass. The track from Bivio 
(Rte. A) lies through Val Cavreccia, 
a treeless pastoral valley, that enters 
the head of the Oberhalbstein above 
that village. The way is at first along 
the 1. bank, then on the rt. bank of a 
torrent descending from the range W. 
of the pass, and the ascent is through¬ 
out very gentle, in part over swampy 
ground. Before reaching the summit, 
a streamlet descending from the SE. 
crosses the path. This flows from the 
Pizzo Lung kino (9,121'), forming the 
SW. end of the range of Gravasalvas, 
not to be confounded with the much 
higher Piz Lungen (10,400'), at the 
NE. extremity of that range. The 
Pizzo Lunghino and the Pizzo Pes- 
ciora (§ 30, Rte. D) are the only single 
mountains in the Alps that feed 
streams flowing into three different 
seas. The streamlet above mentioned 
is one of the sources of the Oberhalb¬ 
stein Rhine, and goes to the North 
Sea; the E. side of the Pizzo Lun¬ 
ghino supports a mountain tarn that is 
the highest of the sources of the Inn, 
flowing to the Black Sea; and the 
streams from its W. flank pass through 
the Mera and the Adda to the Adria¬ 
tic. 

The summit of the Septimer Pass 


37'J 

(7,582'), reached in rather more than 
2 hrs. from Bivio, is marked by a 
wooden cross, and a refuge, now fallen 
to ruin, erected for travellers by some 
former Bishop of Loire. There is a 
fine view r to the S. of the peaks en¬ 
closing the Albigna and Eorno Gla¬ 
ciers, culminating in the Cima del 
Largo (11,162'). The descent is more 
rapid than the ascent, as Casaccia lies 
more than 1,000 ft. lower than Bivio. 
The course is due S. until the track 
falls into an alpine glen, through 
which the principal source of the Mera 
descends due E. (nearly exactly con¬ 
trary to its subsequent direction), to 
Casaccia, from a group of high peaks, 
whose highest summits are the Pizzo 
della Duana (10,279') and Gletscher- 
horn (10,190') (Rte. K). The rough- 
paved track descends in zigzags along 
the N. side of the Mera, and in less 
than 2 hrs. from the pass reaches 
Casaccia (4,790'), described in § 36, 
Rte. A. 


Route K. 

AVbEEIt TO CASACCIA, BY THE AVERS¬ 
TIIAL. 

The Aversthal penetrates deeply 
into the extensive mountain region 
lying between the Oberhalbstein and 
the Hinter Rhein, and unites the drain¬ 
age of nearly the entire mass in the 
Averser Rhein, or Avner Rhein, which 
joins the Hinter Rhein a short way 
above Andeer (§ 31, Rte. A). Of the 
two passes here described, that of the 
Forcellina is free from difficulty, and 
the whole distance may be accom¬ 
plished in one day by a moderately 
good walker. The way by the Duana 
Pass is more interes:ing, but should 
not be attempted without a guide, and 
is too long for a single day's walk. The 
scenery between Cresta and the mouth 
of the valley is of the highest order, 
and deserves to be more generally 
known by tourists. That portion of 
the way is quite unfit for horses, 





380 RH.ETIAN ALPS. § 3 

the path being extremely rough, and 
in many cases broken through by the 
remains of bergfalls and avalanches. 

1. By the Forcellina Pass. 


Caniciil 

Hrs.’ 
walking 
. 3 

Eng. 

miles 

8 

Cresta 

2f 

7 

Juf . 

. 1J 

H 

Casaccia 

9* 


11 

29 


For travellers going from Casaccia 
to Cresta it is not impossible to take a 
horse as far as the latter village, but 
it would not be advisable to ride over 
some parts of the way between the 
beptimer and Juf. The ascent is very 
long when made from Andeer; travel¬ 
ling in the opposite direction, a fast 
walker may accomplish the entire dis¬ 
tance in 10 hrs. exclusive of halts. 

After following the high-road for £ hr. 
from Andeer the path enters the valley 
of the Averser Rhein through a fine 
defile between bold rocks of crystalline 
slate under the shadow of ancient pine 
trees. Within £ hr. of the high-road 
is the first waterfall, a very picturesque 
object, well worth a slight detour from 
the way between Andeer and Spliigen. 
Many other falls are passed higher up 
in the valley. The lower part of the 
Aversthal is often called Ferrerathal, 
and the first village, about 1 hr. from 
the valley, is Ausser Ferrera. Here 
are the remains of smelting works 
formerly employed in the reduction of 
a very rich iron ore found in the neigh¬ 
bourhood. Amidst very beautiful and 
varied scenery the path, keeping to the 
rt. bank, reaches Caniciil —also called 
Inner Ferrera—4,856 ft. above the sea, 
a poor village very finely situated be¬ 
tween the peaks of the Surettahorn 
(9,971' and 9,925') to the W., and the 
Piz Starlera (exactly 10,000') to the NE. 
The latter fine mountain descends in a 
nearly vertical precipice of rock to the 
banks of the torrent below Caniciil. 
SE. from the village is the Val Emet, 
leading to the Madesimo Pass (Rte. 
M). There is a very rough inn, kept 
by civil people, at Caniciil, and the 


O. ALBULA DISTRICT. 

pastor is willing to receive respect¬ 
able strangers in his house, which 
affords rather primitive accommoda¬ 
tion. About J hr. above Caniciil two 
other lateral valleys join the Aversthal. 
Through one of these, called Val Star¬ 
lera, it is possible to reach Molins in 
Oberhalbstein by a pass on the N. side 
of the Weiss berg (9,987'), and the Val 
da Fuller (Rte. A). To the S. is the 
opening of the more considerable Val 
di Lei (Rte. L). About 1^ hr. above 
Caniciil is Campsut (5,499'), where the 
valley opens out a little, and gives 
space for some green meadows. Less 
than 1 m. farther is Crot, standing at 
the junction of the Madriserthal with 
the main valley. [There is a pass 
leading to Castasegna, from the head 
of the Madriserthal, as to which infor¬ 
mation is desired.] Polemonium cceru- 
leum, and other rare plants, may be 
found in this part of the valley. A 
rather steep ascent leads from Crot to 
Crtsta (6,295'), the chief village of 
the Aversthal. The last larch trees 
are seen near the village, and above 
this the valley is completely bare, al¬ 
though there are several hamlets, which 
are reckoned as the highest in the Alps 
and in Europe. The absence of trees 
is, however, to be attributed rather to 
reckless management than to the mere 
influence of climate, as in several ad¬ 
joining valleys larch and Siberian fir 
(arven ) extend nearly to 7,000 ft. above 
the sea. It has been said by many 
writers that the people here have no 
other fuel than cow-dung, and it is 
true that that article is preserved for 
firing ; but wood is also procured from 
the lower part of the valley, though 
not without much labour, owing to the 
badness of the path, w T hich is unfit for 
horses. The inn is uninviting; in¬ 
ferior to that at Caniciil, but respectable 
travellers are received by the pastor. 
As a general rule, the traveller in this 
valley should carry such provisions 
as he may require. In fine summer 
weather he may ften find all the 
houses of a village shut up, and 
the people absent till nightfall, en- 






ROUTE K.—DUANA PASS. 


381 


gaged on the mountains in cutting 
hay, &c. 

Above Cresta the valley rises very 
gently for several miles, being occupied 
exclusively by meadows and alpine 
pastures, with here and there a small 
patch of potatoes, turnips, or lettuce. 
Several hamlets or groups of houses, 
inhabited throughout the year, occur 
at short intervals. Before reaching 
Piirt, the first of these, a glen opens 
to the 1. towards NE., and leads to the 
foot of Piz Platta (11,109'), the highest 
of the outlying peaks of this district, 
said to be accessible without much 
difficulty from this side. There is a 
difficult pass between it and the Fop- 
perhom (10,371') leading to Molins. 
Beyond Piirt are Juppa and Podestats- 
haus (6,716'), and to the S. is seen 
the opening of Val Bregalga. Nearly 
2 m. farther is the highest hamlet 
in the valley, and in Europe, called 
Jaf (6,905'). Front hence diverge 
the tracks leading to three passes 
that connect the head of the Avers- 
thal with the neighbouring valleys. 
The lowest, easiest, but least inter¬ 
esting of these is that of the Stal- 
lerberg (8.478'), due E. of Juf, and 
leading to Bivio. Another, higher, 
steeper, and rarely used, lies about due 
N„ between the Fopperhorn and Piz 
Scu/otta (10,112'), and leads by Val i 
llercla and Val da Faller to Molins 
(Rte. A). 'I'he third, which is the di¬ 
rect way to Casaccia, is the Forcellina 
Pass (8,770'). The path to it from 
Juf mounts gradually towards SE. 
along the rt. bank of the torrent for 
nearly ^ hr., and then begins to ascend 
rapidly by zigzags to the 1., after which 
it resumes its SE. direction along the 
face of the mountain, passing round 
some precipitous rocks, until it again 
bears to the 1., and with little labour 
and no difficulty leads the traveller in 
^ hr. from Juf to the summit. The 
view is extensive and interesting, the 
Bernina chain and the peaks S. of Val 
Bregaglia are the most remarkable 
objects. In the opposite direction the 
Tbdi comes into view. On the E. side 


j the path is scarcely traced, but the way 
j is easily found in clear weather, care 
being taken not to bear too much to 
the 1., and so descend on the N. side 
of the Septimer Pass. After passing 
an opening between steep rocks, the way 
to the Septimer Pass (Rte. I) lies over 
slopes of debris and snow. Casaccia is 
reached in 2^ hrs. from the Forcellina. 
From the Septimer it is easy to reach in 
1 hr. a col connecting Pizzo Lunghino 
with the Gravasalvas, and to descend 
thence in little more than 1 hr. to the 
high road near the Silser See. 

2. Bp the Duana Pass, and Val 
Duana. The Val Bregalga, which, 
as mentioned above, joins the Avers- 
thal fully 2^ m. above Cresta. affords 
the mountaineer a passage to Casaccia 
more interesting than that by the For¬ 
cellina. The wav is somewhat in- 
tricate, and in great part trackless. 
From 7.j to 8 hrs., exclusive of halts, 
are required to reach Casaccia from 
Cresta. 

After passing the hamlet of Bre¬ 
galga (6.355'), near the entrance of the 
valley, the traveller mounts along the 
rt. bank of the torrent. Keeping due 
S., he finally reaches a small glacier 
lying W. of the Gletschei horn (10,190'). 
This is traversed without difficulty, 
and on reaching the summit of the 
ridge (about 8,720', R. C. N.), he 
looks over a slightly depressed rocky 
plateau, or basin, usually in great part 
covered with snow. This is the head 
of a wild recess in the group of peaks 
whose highest point is the Pizzo della 
Duana (10.279'), and forms the head 
of Val Duana, which sends its torrent 
eastward towards Casaccia. To the 
rt. is a ridge dividing the snow-basin 
from the head of Val Ronda. one of 
the branches of the Madriserthal. 
Nearly due S. is a summit called 
Marcio (9,533'), with a small glackr 
lying on its N. slope, and E. ot this a 
pass by which the people of Bondo in 
Val Bregaglia (§ 36, Rte. A) gain 
access to Val Bregalga and the Ma¬ 
driserthal. It costs the traveller but a 
short detour to make a circuit, partly 






582 


RH7ETIAN ALPS. 


35. ALBULA DISTRICT. 


over rocks, partly over the glacier of 
the Marcio, to the top of the pass over 
Bon do, slightly higher than the Duana 
Pass—about 8,930', R. C. N. This 
commands a remarkable view. ‘ Monte 
Rosa is seen on a clear day’ [R.C. N.], 
hut the most remarkable objects are 
the granitic peaks on the opposite side 
of Val Bregaglia. The way now lies 
a little N. of E. to a little tarn lying 
in the midst of the very wild glen 
called Val Duana. A stream, which 
is followed on the 1. bank, leads to a 
second and larger lake (8.051'), and 
the way lies along its N. bank, avoid¬ 
ing a small glacier that descends on 
the opposite side from the Pizzo della 
Duana. This lake, which receives all 
the waters of Val Duana, has no visible 
outlet, but must be drained by some 
underground channel into the lower 
valley, sometimes called ValMarozzo, 
through which the head waters of the 
Mera descend to Casaecia. A very 
short ascent, followed by a long and 
steep descent, leads the traveller into 
this valley. He crosses to the 1. bank 
of the torrent, and in 40 min. more 
joins the track of the Septimer, about 
J hr. above Casaecia. 


Route L. 

ANDEER TO CHIAVENNA, BY THE 
AVERSTHAL. 

The mountaineer going from the 
valley of the 11 inter Rhein to Chia- 
venna. may take a course far more 
interesting than the high road of the 
Spliigen. by ascending the lower part 
of the Aversthal. and then following 
either the Val di Lei or the Madriser- 
thal to the passes which connect those 
valleys with Chiavenna. The distance 
is about the same as the way to Ca- 
saccia by the Forcellina (Rte. K), but 
the passes are much steeper on both 
sides. Further information as to the 
passes mentioned in this and the fol¬ 
lowing Rtes. is much desired. 


From the Surettahorn, E. of the 
Spliigen Pass, to the Pizzo Stella, near 
Chiavenna.the ridge dividing the waters 
of the Rhine from those of the Adda 
follows a direction nearly due S., and 
then runs ENE. to the Septimer Pass. 
The consequence is, that whereas the 
watershed at the Spliigen is much 
nearer to Andeer than to Chiavenna, 
the two above-named tributary valleys 
of the Aversthal penetrate southward to 
the ridge immediately overlooking the 
lower part of the Val Bregaglia. 

1. By the Val di Lei. As mentioned 
in last Rte., the Val di Lei joins the 
Aversthal about f hr. above Caniciil, 
nearly 4 hrs. from Andeer. It is a long, 
straight valley, enclosed between high 
and steep, but monotonous slopes. The 
upper end, hemmed in by glaciers and 
snow-fields, is more interesting. At its 
lower end the peaks of the Pizzo 
della Pal'd (10,374'), and Piz d'Emct 
(10,502') rise on the W. side, and three 
passes leading to the Val di S. Giacomo 
are passed on the rt. hand by the tra¬ 
veller ascending the valley. The way 
to Chiavenna is by a pass at the ex¬ 
treme S. end; and after passing the 
highest chalets, called Pian del Nido, 
the ascent lies by the E. side of a gla- 
eier descending from the Pizzo Stella 
(10,266'). On the traveller’s left, di¬ 
viding the head of Val di Lei from that 
of the Madriserthal, are the Como 
di BUisi (10,000') and Cima di Sovrano 
(10,040'). In approaching the summit 
of the pass, the way lies on the W. side 
of the Lago Ghiacciato, a rather large 
mountain tarn, partly frozen even in 
summer, and then bears to the rt., a 
little S. of W., to the summit of the 
pass, 8,780 ft. in height. This may, 
for want of a name, be called Passo del 
Lago , as the nearest summit to the E. 
is called Cuna del Lago (9.892') After 
descending a short way, the course 
bears abruptly to the 1., and keeps 
nearly SE., till it reaches the W. end 
of another lake, called Lago di Acqua 
Fraggia. A steep descent then leads 
to Savogno, a village not far from the 
high road of the Val Bregaglia, which 
















THE BERNINA ALBS 


English Allies 


Muottas. 


•runU% 


) Margiun&’ji 

, m 


. Mi 

’izS#SBer*ina,' 


tselvmS* 


Rosea Pass 


M!f>Rosso 


P? di Verona 


IlfH 


emD gg 




■>4«A 

jpi 


1 ; 

|§P 














ROUTE M.-THE AVERSTHAL. 


is reached about 2 m. E. of Chiavenna 
(1,040'). See § 33, Rte. A. 

2. 13/ the Madriserthal. The Ma- 
driserthal, parallel to, and E. of the 
Val di Lei, leads to the Passo di Vul 
Madris (8,793'), between the Ciraa 
del Lago and the Pizzo Gulleggione 
(10,286'), whence, descending WSW., 
the track passes along the S. side of the 
Lago di Acqua Fraggia, where it joins 
that from the Passo del Lago, men¬ 
tioned above, and descends by Savo- 
guo to Chiavenna. From Crot, where 
the Madriserthal joins the Aversthal, 
to Chiavenna, is said to be a walk of 
7 hrs,; in all nearly 12 brs., exclusive 
of halts, from Andeer. There is 
another way, described by Mr. Fresh- 
field, with traces of an ancient paved 
path, leading to Promontogno in Val 
Bregaglia. 


Route M. 

ANDEER TO CAMPO DOLCINO, BY THE 
AVERSTHAL. 

Excepting the first, the passes men¬ 
tioned below are little known and 
rarely used. Information respecting all 
of them is desired. 

1. By the Passo di Madesimo. This 
way is certainly not longer than that 
by the Spliigen road, but the pass is 
rather higher, and the way much 
rougher. It affords an agreeable varia¬ 
tion on the ordinary route for those 
who have already seen the Spliigen, 
enabling them to enjoy the fine scenery 
of the lower part of the Aversthal 
At Caniciil (Rte. K) the path to the 
Madesimo Pass turns aside from the 
main track up the Aversthal, and 
follows the rt. bank of the torrent, 
draining the Val Emet. Keeping a 
tolerably direct course SW. to the head 
of this glen, the track reaches the Passo 
di Madesimo (7,480'). In descending, 
the way lies somewhat to the rt., and 
passes on the N. side of a little lake, 
called Lago di Emet; then, leaning to 


383 

j the 1., or SSW., it passes the hamlet of 
I Madesimo, and reaches the high road 
of the Spliigen, close to Pianazzo (§ 33, 
Rte. A). 

2. By the Val di Lei. lew particulars 
can be given as to the passes leading 
from the Val di Lei to the Val di S. 
Giacomo. They lie in the following 
order, reckoning from N. to S. The 
Passo di Val Stcrla (9,515'), on the S. 
side of the Piz d'Emet. joins the track 
of the Madesimo Pass, above the ham¬ 
let of that name. 

The Passo Groppera, immediately 
N. of the Pizzo Groppera (9,626'), leads 
to the same track, which is joined just 
below the hamlet of Madesimo. 

The third is rather more interesting, 
and probably easier than the last, and 
may be called Passo di Angeluga from 
a group of chalets on the W. side of the 
pass bearing the latter name. It lies on 
the S. side of the Pizzo Groppera, and 
passes near to a number of small lakes 
or tarns lying on either side of the 
watershed. The lowest of these (about 
6,900') is close to the chalets of An¬ 
geluga. An abrupt, and rather steep, 
descent leads down to the level of the 
Rahhiosa torrent, fed by the snows of 
Pizzo Stella. The way lies along the 
rt. bank of the torrent till, after passing 
the hamlet of Fraciscio, it crosses to 
the opposite side, and bearing some¬ 
what to the 1., leads the traveller to the 
high road just above Campo Dolcino. 

The Angeluga chalets are the most 
convenient starting point for the ascent 
of the Pizzo Stella (10,266'?). The 
chief herdsman, named Giacomo dell’ 
Adamino, is a competent guide, but a 
practised mountaineer will easily find 
the way, bearing to the rt. during the 
ascent, and striking the ridge some 
way S. of the highest point, which is 
marked by two stone men. 3^ hrs. 
suffice for the ascent, and 2| hrs. for 
returning to the chalets. 

By some mistake, the figures 3,406, 
indicating a height of 11,175 ft., are 
inserted in the Swiss Federal Map at a 
point SW. of the true summit on the 
Italian side of the watershed. 





384 


RHiETlAN ALPS. 


§3 


SECTION 36. 

BERNINA DISTRICT. 

It is but of late years that the import¬ 
ance of the portion of the alpine chain 
lying between the upper valley of the 
Inn and the Val Tellina has been gene¬ 
rally recognised. The survey for the 
Swiss Federal Map proved that the peaks 
of this range had been previously rated 
too low by thousands of feet. The Piz 
Bernina does not quite equal in height 
the Pointe des Ecrins or Grand Para¬ 
dis, but considering the number and 
height of the peaks, and the size of their 
glaciers, the Bernina Alps are certainly 
entitled to rank as equal in importance 
to the Dauphine and Graian groups, and 
inferior only to the two greatest masses 
—the Pennine and the Bernese ranges. 

Attention has already b^en called to 
the line of depression extending from 
ChiaveDna into the Tyrol, chiefly oc¬ 
cupied by the upper valley of the Inn. 
In the two foregoing sections, the 
ranges lying on the N. side of the great 
Rhaerian valley have been described. 
The loftier masses to the S., between 
the Inn and Mera on one side, and the 
Adda on the other, may collectively be 
included under the designation Bernina 
District, although this comprises three 
groups which are in a great degree 
orographically distinct. The western 
group, lying between the Mera and the 
Adda, includes the high peaks that 
enclose the head of Val Masino, whose 
principal summit is the Monte della 
Disgrazia (12,074'). This is separated 
by the Val Malenco and the Muretto 
Pass from the central group of the 
Bernina Alps, whose highest summit 
attains 13,294 ft. To the E. and NE. 
the latter group is limited by the line 
or'depression followed by the high road 
of the Bernina Pass, and beyond this 
extends a tract including several moun¬ 
tain ridges that lie between the Ber¬ 
nina Alps and the Orteler group. 
These are not sufficiently important 
to be descriued in a separate section, 


G. BERNINA DISTRICT. 

and are therefore included here. The 
most natural division between this and 
the Orteler district appears to be the 
line of valley between Zernetz and 
Bormio, taking the low pass which 
connects the scarce of the Adda at the 
head of Val Fraele with the valley of 
the Spbl descending to Zernetz. 

Although the scientific geographer 
attaches no especial importance to the 
line of demarcation between the waters 
flowing to the Adriatic through the 
valley of the Po, and those that pass 
into Germany through the Rhine or the 
Inn, this is usually regarded as defin¬ 
ing the main chain of the Alps. Ac¬ 
cording to this definition, the main 
chain extends from Chiavenna along 
the N. side of Yal Bregaglia, then 
crossing the low ridge of the Maloya, 
runs southward between the glens of 
Ordlegna and Fedoz, by the E. side of 
the Muretto Pass, to the Piz Guz 
(11,066'). The dividing ridge be¬ 
tween the Adda and the Inn then fol¬ 
lows a tolerably direct course to ENE., 
including several of the chief summits 
of this district, such as Piz Tremoggia 
(11,326'), Piz Roseg (12,936'), Piz 
Bernina (13,294'), Piz Palii (12,835'), 
and Piz Cambren * (11,835'), above the 
Bernina Pass. E. of that limit the 
same direction is preserved in the 
range whose highest summits are the 
Corno di Campo (10,843'), Monte Zem- 
brasca, and Monte Foscagno (10,148'). 
The political boundary between Switz¬ 
erland and Italy descends on the S. 
side of the watershed through the 
valley of Poschiavo nearly to Tirano, 
and in the Val Bregaglia to Casta- 
segna, 6 m. from Chiavenna. 

The best head-quarters for moun¬ 
taineers desiring to explore the peaks 
and glaciers of the Bernina Alps are 
found at Pontresina, but Samaden and 
St. Moi’itz, when not over full, also 
afford good accommodation in the 
same neighbourhood. In the valleys 
opening toward Val Tellina the village 
inns are usually uninviting, but at the 
Baths of Masino very fair quarters are 
■found by a traveller who would ex- 





ROUTE A.-VAL BREGAGLIA. 


385 


plore the grand scenery of that neg¬ 
lected valley. The Baths of Tarasp 
(4,182') in the Lower Engadine, and 
those of Le Prese (about 3,200'), near 
Poschiavo, are good stopping-places, 
but less attractive to the mountaineer 
than those above named. 

It may be well in this place to notice 
the existence of a singular class, whose 
presence in the Engadine and Val 
Tellina, and in their lateral valleys, 
cannot fail to attract the notice of the 
mountaineer. Throughout this district 
the ordinary practice of the communes 
is to let a considerable part of the 
mountain pastures, or alps, to Berga- 
masque shepherds, who annually drive 
vast flocks of sheep from the meagre 
slopes of their native valleys to fatten 
on the richer and more nutritive vege¬ 
tation of the higher mountains. Their 
course usually is over some of the 
passes mentioned in § 38, by which 
they descend into Val Tellina, and 
then, by the Bernina Pass, and various 
mountain tracks, reach the huts where 
they pass the summer months. These 
Italian shepherds are a wild-looking 
race, with limbs swarthy as the Be- 
iouin, high conical hats, and clothing 
chiefly made of sheep or goat skin. 
They speak a Lombard dialect, sound¬ 
ing strange to the ear of a stranger; 
but, though rough in appearance and 
speech, they are usually honest, kindly, 
and hospitable people, used to a hard 
life and sparing diet, chiefly composed 
of polenta and water from the nearest 
stream. One consequence of this s_\ s- 
tem is that horned cattle are much less 
common than elsewhere in the Alps, 
and the mountain wanderer cannot here 
count with any certainty on finding the 
excellent milk, butter, and cheese that 
are usually obtainable in an Alpine 
chalet. 

It has appeared most convenient to 
include in this section the description 
of the main roads through the Engadine 
and the Val Tellina. 

Visitors to the Engadine should 
know that a bank is now open during 
the season at St. Moritz. 

c 


Route A. 


CHIAVENNA TO NAUDERS, BY THE VAL 
BREGAGLIA AND ENGADINE. 




Post 

Eng. 

Castasegna 


leagues 

mile* 

• 

. n 

n 

Vico Si prano 


. 2 

G 

Casaccia 


1 a 

4| 

Silvatdana . 

St. Moritz . 


. 3A 

i* 

10* 

3 

Samadeu . 


l 

Zutz . 


2£ 

7* 

Zernetz 

• 

• H 


Lav in 


2 

G 

Schnls . 


3f 

iii 

Reiniis 



6 

Mari nisbruck 


2 

(i 

Nauders 


• i* 

'* 



29 

*7 

Diligence daily 

between Chiavenna 

and Samaden, 

and 

between 

Samaden 

and Nauders. 

At 

Samaden 

a char to 


Chiavenna may be hired for 30 fr. 

The high-road leaves the town of 
Chiavenna (§ 33, Rte. A) close to the 
Hotel Conradi, and at once enters Val 
Bregaglia, a very fine valley that 
within a distance of 15 m. descends 
from the Maloya Pass through a ver¬ 
tical height of about 5,000 ft., passing 
from the region of alpine pastures to 
the Italian climate and vegetation of 
Chiavenna, which is but 1,040 ft. above 
the sea. After passing on the 1. a 
pretty cascade fed by a stream descend¬ 
ing from the Lago di Acqua Fraggia 
(§ 35, Rte. M), the traveller keeping 
to the road on the rt. bank, sees oppo¬ 
site to him the site of Piuro (Rom. 
Plurs), a town of considerable wealth 
and importance, which was over¬ 
whelmed by a bergfall in September 
1618. The rocks and rubbish lay so 
deep that nothing has ever been re¬ 
covered from the ruins but a church 
bell and two lamps. A chestnut wodd 
now clothes the site, and conceals even 
the traces of so great a disaster. The 
Swiss frontier is passed before entering 

Castaseyna (Inn: Post), 2,362 ft. 
above the sea. This is the limit of the 
cultivation of the vine and mulberry. 
A steep and narrow ravine on the S. 
side of the Mera, or Maira, leads by 
theForcella di Rochette to the head of 
c 


PART II. 







386 


PJLETIAN ALPS. § 30. BElttflNA DISTRICT. 


Val Codera, and to Yal Masino 
(Rte. F). At Spino, about 2 m. above 
Castasegna, a bridge over the Mera, 
on the rt. of the road, leads to Bondo 
at the opening of the Val Buvdasca. 
The glacier at its upper end is enclosed 
by a range of very fine granitic aiguilles, 
and well deserves a visit, even by 
those who do not attempt to traverse 
the ridges that enclose it. A few 
hundred yards farther the high-road 
crosses the Mera to Promontogno 
(2,687'), with a pretty good country 
inn kept by a widow Curtabat. On a 
plateau above the rt. bank of the river, 
opposite Bondo, is Soglio (3,340'), once 
one of the principal seats of the power¬ 
ful family of Salis, and still containing 
an extensive villa and gardens. It is 
said that near to this village the 
Siberian pine and the chestnut may be 
seen growing side by side, an associa¬ 
tion scarcely to be found elsewhere 
in the Alps. Above Promontogno the 
valley is contracted to a picturesque 
defile below the rained stronghold of 
Castelmur, where access to the upper 
valley was once guarded by a gateway. 
Above this the villages of Stampa and 
Borgonuovo are passed before reaching 
Vico Soprano (3,566'), the chief vil¬ 
lage in the valley, with a fair inn kept 
by the Landammann Maurizio. A 
6tone bridge leads to the rt. bank of 
the Mera, but the road keeps to the 1. 
bank of the stream. The torrent from 
the Albigna Glacier enters Yal Bre- 
paglia about 2 m. E. of Vico Soprano, 
but flows parallel to the Mera, not 
joining that stream till it reaches the 
village. An excursion to the Albigna 
Glacier may be strongly recommended 
to those who do not undertake the 
somewhat laborious Passo di Zocca, 
described in Rte. F. A rather steep 
ascent Pads from the plateau, extend¬ 
ing some way above Vico Soprano to 
the upper level of the valley where 
stands the last village, 

Casaccia (4,790'), with three small 
and humble inns. Those of-Bartolomeo 
Gioanuini, and Agostino Zuan, have 
both been rather well spoken of, 


and there is a third kept by Stampa. 
Pietro Ton’iani is recommended as 
a guide to the neighbouring passes. 
Here is the junction of the paths 
from the Muretto Pass (Rte. G), and 
those from the Septimer, Forcellina, 
and Duana Passes (§ 35, Rtes. I and 
K). The ascent from Casaccia to the 
Maloya Pass (5,942?) is easy to the 
pedestrian, but it requires a good many 
zigzags to reach the low broad ridge 
from whence the streams fall on the 
one side to the Adda, and in the oppo¬ 
site direction to the Inn. An unat¬ 
tractive mountain inn stands at the 

s 

summit. Between the Col des Echelles, 
near Bardonneche, and the Tyrolese 
passes from the Inn to the Adige, this 
is the lowest point in the range of the 
Alps forming the natural frontier of 
Italy; but, as has been seen in the last 
section, it is necessary to traverse the 
Julier or some other higher pass, in 
order to reach the valley of the Rhine 
or the N. of Switzerland. The view 
towards the Yal Bregaglia is more 
striking than that over the head of the 
Engadine, where rather gentle and 
monotonous slopes of bare green alpine 
pasture detract from the effect that 
would otherwise be produced by the 
high peaks on either hand. The de¬ 
scent is extremely slight, in fact quite 
insignificant, as the pass is but a few 
ft. higher than the Silser See, or Lake 
of Sils, the largest in the Alps lying at 
so great an elevation, 5,887 ft. It is 
fully 3 m. long, and 1 m. in breadth. 
The ruins of an ancient castle (Chaste) 
stand on a promontory of rock, at its 
eastern end. The road is carried along 
the N. shore, at the base of the Gra- 
vasalvas range, while on the opposite 
side two valleys descend towards the 
lake. The first is the Val Fedoz, lead¬ 
ing up to the Vadred da Fedoz, a 
considerable glacier on the N. side of 
the Piz Giiz (11,066'). Farther E. is 
the Yal Fex, leading to the Capiitscha 
Pass. The stream from this valley has 
brought down a mass of detritus, which 
it has spread out in a sandy plain 
(where the botanist may gather Juncus 





ROUTE A.—THE ENGADINE. 


3b7 


arctic us), a*, the ENE. end of the Silser 
See, dividing it from the Silvaplaner 
See. It is evident that these lakes 
were once continuous, and that a single 
sheet of water extended nearly 9 m. 
through the head of the Engadine to 
Campfer. On the fiat tract beyond 
the lake of Sils, but on the side of the 
stream opposite to the high-road, is 
Sils , and near to it, Maria. These, 
which are the highest villages of the 
valley, are marked by the air of neat¬ 
ness and comfort, that will strike the 
traveller throughout a great portion of 
this rte. At a large white house in the 
village of Maria is an excellent new 
inn, where visitors are received en pen¬ 
sion. There is, or was, another smaller 
inn at the Post Office. This would be 
a convenient stopping place for a 
traveller wishing to explore thoroughly 
the adjoining Val Fex, which offers 
many attractions to the naturalist. For 
passes to Val Malenco see Rte. H. 
The excursion to the Salatscliigna Joch 
is noticed hereafter. 

The Engadine —by which name the 
Swiss portion of the valley of the 
Inn is generally known — deserves 
some special notice, as it is one of 
the most remarkable valleys in the 
Alps. There is none other which 
maintains nearly so great an eleva¬ 
tion, for we here find that in a dis¬ 
tance of 30 m., from the head of the 
valley to near Zernetz, the level of the 
Inn does not fall more than 1,000 ft. 
This fact, added to the influence of the 
snowy ranges that wall it in on either 
side, makes this the coldest of the 
greater valleys of the Alps. Beyond 
small patches of garden vegetables, 
there is no tillage in the upper valley, 
and nature provides no other resource 
than pasture for cattle by which to 
support the population. Observing 
these conditions, the stranger sees with 
surprise a large number of considerable 
villages, and a style of building an¬ 
nouncing the possession of comfort, 
and even wealth, on the part of many 
of the inhabitants. A large part of 
the younger population is used to go 

c 


forth into the world with a view to 
find a living ; but this would not suffice 
to account for the condition of the 
people, if it were not that they are in 
hereditary possession of a trade which 
they exercise with extraordinary suc¬ 
cess throughout the many countries to 
which they carry their industry. Most 
of the Swiss confectioners and sugar 
bakers who are to be found in every 
large town on the Continent come from 
the Engadine, and there are few of 
them who do not realise a competence, 
and return with their savings to their 
native valley. Cut off from their Swiss 
neighbours by mountain ranges that 
are not easily passed except in the 
height of summer, and bordering on 
Tyrol at the lower end of the valley, 
and on Italy in the contiguous Val 
Bregaglia, the Engadine people are at 
once isolated and citizens of the world. 
It thus happens that they have main¬ 
tained unchanged their own peculiar 
dialect of Romantsch (in which three 
or four periodical papers are published), 
and many local usages, while many of 
them are well acquainted with remote 
parts of Europe visited during their 
period of emigration. The Engadine 
is naturally divided into two distinct 
portions, the Ober Engadin, or upper 
valley, extending from the Maloya to 
the neighbourhood of Zernetz, and the 
Unter Engadin, stretching thence to 
the Tyroiese frontier below Martins- 
bruck. The conditions above described 
apply especially to the upper valley. 
In the lower valley the climate is less 
severe, and tillage is possible wherever 
the steep slopes allow roorr and soil for 
the purpose. But the Inn here runs 
through a deep trench between the 
opposing bases of the mountains, and 
the villages are often perched at a great 
height above the stream. The lateral 
valleys of the lower Engadine are for 
the most part narrow clefts whose pre¬ 
cipitous slopes are clothed with the 
primaeval forest, which still harbours 
the bear and many other wild animals, 
while the Lammergeyer finds a home 
in the unfrequented crags of the alpine 






S88 


EHA2TIAN ALPS. § 36. BERNINA DISTRICT. 


region. Within the last few years the 
attention of many Swiss and other 
writers has been directed to this region, 
and several works, enumerated in the 
Introduction to this volume, have helped 
to increase the concourse of tourists, 
who have begun to make this one of 
their favourite haunts. Unlike what 
commonly happens elsewhere, the con¬ 
struction of a carriage road through 
the upper part of the Engadine was an 
easy undertaking, while much labour 
and heavy expense have been absorbed 
in the continuation of the road through 
the lower valley. The new road, a 
great improvement on the old line, so 
steep and rough as to be scarcely pass¬ 
able for carriages, is now open to the 
Swiss frontier at Martinsbruck, but the 
road thence to Nauders is not in goon 
condition. 

Leaving to the rt. the little village 
of Sils, the road is carried along a dead 
level, and joins that of the Julier (§ 35, 
Rte. A) at 

Silvaplana (two country Inns), on 
rising ground overlooking the Silva¬ 
plana See, the natural continuation of 
the lake of Sils. The silt and gravel 
borne down by mountain torrents have 
encroached on the basin of this lake,! 
and will ultimately divide it into two 
parts. These lakes abound in fish, 
although they are usually frozen over 
tor live or six out of the nine months’ 
winter of this bleak district. The in¬ 
teresting walk to Pontresina by the 
Surlei Fuorcla is noticed in Rte. B. 
A new’ road, traversed by the diligence, 
crosses the river below r the lowest lake, 
and goes to the Baths of St. Moritz, 
while the main road to Samaden, by 
the village of St. Moritz, keeps to the 
1. bank passing the pretty village o 
Campfer (Inn: H. Julier.'good), ± hr. 
below Silvaplana. The Siberian pine 
(arolla) becomes abundant above the 

Baths of St. Moritz. The mineral 
springs, which have created a fre¬ 
quented watering -1 dace in a position 
very unattractive to the lovers of ease 
and luxury, are at the base of a ridge 
projecting from the Piz Surlei (10,455'), 


near the SW. end of the St. Moritzer 
See, 5,804 ft. above the sea. The waters 
are highly charged with alkaline salts, 
and carbonate of iron, with a small 
proportion of phosphoric acid, and 
traces of iodine, bromine, &c. Their 
influence, along with that of the moun¬ 
tain air, is said to be extremely efficient 
in cases requiring tonic treatment. 
They are annually visited by an in¬ 
creasing number of Italian, German, 
and English visitors, and the numerous 
inns near the springs are overcrowded 
throughout the ten or twelve weeks 
in which delicate persons are recom¬ 
mended to take the waters. A very 
large new building, intended to re¬ 
ceive four hundred visitors, was opened 
in 1864. In a fine summer season 
the climate is highly enjoyable, though 
rather cold at night ; but visitors 
should be prepared for inclement 
weather, and snow not rarely falls in 
the month of August. The village of 
St. Moritz (6,100') stands on rising 
ground, about 300 ft. above the baths, 
and rather more than a mile distant. 
Many of the patients lodge here. There 
are several inns, of which the most fre¬ 
quented is the Hotel Culm (formerly 
Fuller), kept by M. Badrutt—board, 
5 fr. a day without wine, rooms from 
2 to 5 fr. daily. Next to this rank in 
succession Hotel Bavier; Kreuz, kept 
by Denz; Post; Aquila Nera. Lodg¬ 
ings may be had in private houses. 
Very general complaint is made that 
the food at all the inns here is inferior 
in quality and scanty. Nevertheless 
they are generally ciowded, and travel¬ 
lers who have not secured rooms in ad¬ 
vance should be prepared to go on to 
Samaden or Pontresina. Most of the 
excursions usually made from those 
places may be taken from St. Moritz, 
and good roads make it easy for ladies 
to reach comparatively distant points 
in the valley. Of the nearer walks 
the most interesting are those up 
the slopes N. of the village, com¬ 
manding views of the higher peaks of 
the Bernina. The chalets of Nova and 
those of Giop are often visited, but 





ROUTE A.—SAMADEN. 


839 


the best view is from the summit of 
the Margums Alp (7,76G'), on the ridge 
overlooking Val Cellerina, which may 
be reached in rather more than 1 hr. 
The summit of Piz Nair (10,040'), at 
the W. extremity of the same ridge, is 
attainable without difficulty in 3 hours’ 
steady walking from the village. The 
tour of Val Bevers (Rte. C) may be 
made by passing on the S. side of the 
Piz Nair to the little lake at the head of 
Val Suvretta. A very pleasing and easy 
walk to Pontresina is by the S. side 
of the St. Moritzer See to the chalets of 
Acla, where coffee, cream, butter, &c. 
are provided for visitors, and then by a 
little mountain tarn called Statzer See, 
near to which grows JJrosera lutigi- 
Jblia. 

One of the most interesting excur¬ 
sions from St Moritz is that to the 
valleys of Fex and Fedoz, connected 
together by the Salatschigna Pass. 
The tour would be shortened by start¬ 
ing from the hamlet of Maria, but a 
char may be taken not only to Maria 
but for nearly 3 m. farther, as far as 
the chalets of Curtins in the Val Fex, 
and may await the traveller's return at 
Maria or Cresta. 

On leaving Maria the char-road into 
Val Fex ascends nearly 500 ft. in order 
to gain the floor of the valley, which 
extends nearly at a level for fully 2 m., 
passing by the hamlet and picturesque 
chapel of Cresta to Curtins. The 
traveller then follows a path by the 
chalets and dairy establishment of the 
Silser Alp (6,759'), considered one of 
the most perfect in Switzerland, and, 
following the main track up the valley 
for some distance farther, leaves on (he 
1. the path to the head of the valley, 
and ascends up grassy slopes towards 
the rocky ridge dividing (his from Val 
Fedoz. The Salatschigna Pass lies well 
to the 1. of a remarkable rock, resem¬ 
bling in its outline a cat couchant, and 
is a gap in a sharp indented ridge, 
commanding very fine views ot the 
Fex and Fedoz Glaciers. The first is 
seen backed by the Capiitschin, and 
the course taken over the Capiitschin 


Pass (Rte. II) and the Fex Fuorcla 
(Rte. C) may be traced from hence. 

[The route from Pontresina to Chiesa 
may be easily joined by any one start¬ 
ing from Maria or St. Moritz and 
crossing the Caputscha Pass, connect¬ 
ing the Fex and Scerscen Glaciers. It 
affords the only direct way from either 
of those places to Val Malenco.] 

The Val Feduz offers grander and 
more impressive scenery than the Val 
Fex, and the Piz Margna (10.355'), 
rising on its W. side, is a striking 
object. The descent into it is steep; 
the usual course lies somewhat 1. of 
the pass ; but it is also possible to 
keep down steep slopes on the rt., 
which lead to a goat track. ‘ This 
skirts the ridge for a considerable 
distance, but ultimatelv turns down- 
wards, and led us to the foot of the 
rocks after 2| hrs.’ hard work. A fur¬ 
ther walk of 1 hr. along the stream 
brought us to the opening of the valley. 
Leaving the torrent to find its way by 
a fine fall to the level of the main val¬ 
ley above Isola, we turned to the rt. 
over moist meadows, and rounded a 
grassy brow, with lovely views of the 
Silser See, till we rejoined our morning 
rte. near Cresta, and % hour’s rapid 
descent brought us back to Maria.’ 
[J. F.] 

The high road from St. Moritz tra¬ 
verses the small villages of Cresta and 
Cellerina, separated only by the torrent 
issuing from Val Cellerina Here a road 
turns to the rt., crosses the Inn, and 
passing by the ancient church of St. 
Giann, leads in less than 4 m. to Pon¬ 
tresina (Rte B). The main road along 
the 1. bank leads to 

Samaden (Inns: Hotel Bernina, a good 
house and well situated; H. des Alpes, 
new, not had, arrangements imperfect; 
Engadine Hof, large new house; Krone, 
fair and reasonable ; Post, old-fashioned 
and primitive, cheap), the principal vil¬ 
lage of the upper Engadine, 5,608 ft. 
above the sea, with many large houses, 
inhabited by persons retired from busi¬ 
ness. This remote village has much the 
air of a town. It has three or four cafes. 






390 


RELETIAN ALPS. § 36. BERNINA DISTRICT. 


a weekly political newspaper, and other 
periodicals. Lechner’s Piz Languard 
iind die Bernina Gruppe , sold here, will 
enable practised walkers to dispense 
with a guide for the ordinary excur¬ 
sions Most of these are best made 
from Pontresina (Rte. B), but the Piz 
Padella (9,459'), immediately W. of the 
village, and easily accessible in 3 hrs., 
is best visited from hence. The ascent 
of Piz Ot (10,660') is more laborious, 
hut it has been made easy, even for 
timid people, by a good path, with a 
hand-rail in steep places. As com¬ 
pared with the Piz Languard, this 
affords more interesting rock scenery ; 
but the higher peaks are more distant, 
and the grand view of the Morteratsch 
Glacier is here wanting. The low 
summit called Muottas (8,273'), com¬ 
manding a noble view, may be taken 
on the way to Pontresina. The church 
of St. Peter, the oldest in the Engadine, 

300 ft. above Samaden, deserves a visit 
for the fine view over the valley. The 
neighbourhood of Samaden and 
Moritz abound in objects of interest to! honour. 


the naturalist. In addition to some 
special localities hereafter noted, the 
botanist may find in the main valley 
Androsuce septentrionalis, Linn a'a bo¬ 
realis , Phnca frigida , Dracocephalum 
Ruyschiunum, Carex Buxbaumii, Koe- 
leria hirsuta, and many other rare 
plants. The zoologist will have no less 
ample occupation. Amongst many other 
rare Lepidoptera, he may take Chelonia 
flava ; and in the lake of St. Moritz he 
will find Lymneus Blauneri. 

The road from Samaden is carried 
along the level floor of the valley to 
Severs, at the opening of the valley of 
the same name described in Rte. C. 
A schoolmaster named Krattli, who is 
well acquainted witn the very rich 
local flora, sells, or did sell, good col¬ 
lections of dried plants. Abont 1 hr. 
farther is 

Ponte (Inns: Hotel Albula, new; 
Krone, the old house, with tolerable 
rooms), at the junction of the track 
from the Albula (§ 35, Rt. C) with the 
road of the Engadine. As the name 


indicates, there is here a bridge over 
the Inn, but the road now keeps all the 
way to the 1. bank. To the rt. lies 
Campovasto (5,581'), also called 
Camogask, at the opening of the Vul 
Chiamuera , or Camogaskerthal, which 
with its two lateral branches penetrates 
deeply into the mountain ranges 
separating the Inn from Yal Livigno 
(Rte. M). The main central branch 
runs SSE., and is connected by a pass 
on the W. side of the Piz della Streila 
(10,197 ) with the head of the Val del 
Fain (Rte. B). A SE branch, called 
VulLavirum, leads by the Lavirum Pass 
(9,249') to the Federia branch of Val 
Livigno. On the other side is the Val 
Prunas, mounting SSW. to the E. foot 
of Piz Languard. 

Scarcely 1 m. beyond Ponte there is 
another bridge over the Inn at Mudu- 
lein, a village standing under the castle of 
Guardaval, ruined in the 14th century 
in an outburst of popular fury, when a 
peasant of the valley had first slain the 
St.; local oppressor to defend his daughter’s 
A torrent here descends from 
Piz Kesch (11,211') through the Vald' 
Eschia. That fine peak was first reached 
in 1SC4, as mentioned in § 35, Rte. C. 
The head of Val Tuors (§ 35, Rte. C) 
may be reached from Val d'Eschia 
by "the Eschia Pass (9,347', B. Studer). 
About 2 m beyond JVladulein is 

Zutz (Inn: Schweizerbund, new, and 
well spoken of). The Piz Griatschouls 
(9,754') is easily ascended from hence, 
and is said to command a fine view. 
On the N. side it overlooks the Yal 
Sulsanna. The next village is 
Scatifs (Inns: Traube, very small; 
Kreuz). A little lower down is the 
opening of Val Casanna ( Rte. M). 
There are here fine views of the Piz 
Kesch to the W., and Piz d’ E.sen 
(10,269') and Piz Quatervals (10,358') 
to the E. At Capella the paths from 
the Scaletta and Sertig Passes (§ 35, 
Rtes. G and H) descend through Val 
Sulsanna to join the road. At Cinu- 
schel (5,302') there is a poor Inn, and 
a little farther—nearly 2 hrs. from 
Zutz—the road crosses a torrent de- 




ROUTE A.-LOWER ENGADINE, 


391 


scending from Piz Yadred by abridge 
called Pont Auta. This forms the 
political boundary between the Upper 
and Lower Engadine, but the natural 
limit is 3 or 4 m. lower down the valley, 
where the road, after crossing to the 1. 
bank, makes a rather rapid descent 
just above 

Zernetz (Inns: Bar, new; Lowe, 
kept by J. Fili, who has killed many 
bears and chamois on the neighbouring 
Alps; Steinbach). The village is much 
improved of late years, since a good 
road has connected it with the head 
of the valley. Here the Spol, uniting 
the torrents from many mountain val¬ 
leys into a considerable stream, enters 
the Engadine from ESE., while the 
Inn is forced aside from its direct 
course by a considerable mass of moun¬ 
tains whose highest point is Piz Nuna 
( 10,263'). The village, one of the 
most important in the Engadine, stands 
at 4,912 ft. above the sea, on a tongue 
of land below the junction of the Spol, 
and in the angle between it and the 
Inn. An excursion into Val Cluozza 
will interest the lover of wild scenery. 
The road returns to the 1. bank of the 
Inn on leaving Zernetz, and keeps that 
side of the valley till it reaches the 
Tyrolese frontier at Martinsbruck. 
The way to Siis lies through a narrow 
*■ and picturesque defile commanding at 
some points a fine view of Piz Linard. 
The steep walls of the valley are broken 
through at one point where a torrent 
descends from the Sursura Glacier on 
the E. side of the higher peaks of the 
Scaletta Alps. A fine pass from Davos 
to Siis by the Disehmathal and the 
Grialetscli and Sursura Glaciers, was 
effected by Mr. Girdlestone. See § 35, 
Rte. G. 

(Siis with two small tolerable inns) 
stands in a picturesque position at the 
junction of Val Susaca with the main 
valley. By that way the valleys of 
Davos and Prsettigau are connected 
with the Engadine by passes described 
in § 34 and 35. The lord of a castle, 
who surrendered to the people when 
they rose against their oppressors,. was 


faithlessly murdered by them after he 
had a promise of safe-conduct. From 
that day forth—say the people of Siis 
—no lark has ever sung over the ruins. 
Steep rocks of hornblende slate rise 
above the road, and the opening of 
the wild Yal Sagliains is passed on 
the 1., as the road approaches 

Lavin (Inn : bei Jacob Juon, poor 
but civil people), 4,782 ft above the 
sea. For the ascent of Piz Linard, 
the highest of the Silvretta Alps, 
which rises in a very bold peak be¬ 
tween Val Sagliains and Val Lavi- 
nuoz, see § 34, Rte. E. The Piz 
Mitzdi (9,593'), S. of Lavin, may be 
reached without difficulty by a mode¬ 
rate mountaineer, and will reward him 
by a very fine view of the Silvretta 
Alps. Below Lavin the valley of the 
Inn is everywhere so contracted as to 
leave little or no space near to the 
stream, and nearly all the villages 
stand at a considerable height on steep 
slopes, often separated by furrows or 
ravines cut into the mountains by tor¬ 
rents. This has made the construction 
of a road difficult and expensive. It is 
necessary either to descend into the 
depths of the valley in order to ascend 
again, or else to carry the road round 
projecting ribs of the mountain, and 
over deep rocky ravines. The new 
road passes below Gnarda (5,4.3'). 
It has a clean inn (Sonne), and com¬ 
mands a fine view. The pedestrian 
may reach it by the old road, and 
then redescend to cross a ravine. In 
2 lirs. from Lavin the traveller reaches 
Ardetz, a village beside the ruins of 
the castle of Sti-insberg. The road 
now descends near to the bank of the 
Inn, and passes the opening of A r al 
Tasna leading to the Futschlil Pass 
(§ 34, Rte. H). The castle of Tarasp 
and the houses of the adjoining hamlet 
of Vulpera are now seen on the oppo¬ 
site bank of the Inn, aud the pedes¬ 
trian may reach them without delay. 
The old char-road here mounted the 
steep projecting ridge on which stands 
Fettan , and then at once began to 
descend: but the new road avoids 



392 


RIIATTIAN ALPS 


§ 30. BERNINA DISTRICT 


Fettan, and in about 5 m. from Ardetz 
reaches 

Schuls (Inns: Pension Belvedere, 
very good; several others of humbler 
pretensions, kept by Wieland, Peer, 
Arquint, &c.). This place has lately 
come into notice owing to the dis¬ 
covery of two powerful alkaline and 
chalybeate springs, but still more be¬ 
cause of the increasing reputation of 
the neighbouring waters of Tarasp, to 
which place visitors are conveyed by 
omnibus several times daily. 

Most travellers will turn aside to 
visit the mineral springs of Tarasp, 
as the place is generally called. The 
rather primitive inns formerly kept here 
by Steiner and Karl, are in some de¬ 
gree superseded bv the opening of a 
large, new, handsome hotel. The ham¬ 
let where the more important springs 
have been discovered is properly called 
Yulpera, but the name of the com¬ 
mune is Tarasp. It is the only one in 
the Engadine where the people are 
Roman Catholic, and speak German 
instead of Romantsch. The waters 
here resemble those of Schwalbach and 
Pyrmont, but are said to be more 
powerful. There is little other re¬ 
semblance between this place and those 
unattractive spots. The scenery of 
the immediate neighbourhood is here 
very fine, and there is ample occupa¬ 
tion for the lover of nature in ex¬ 
ploring the adjoining valleys. The 
principal establishment stands at 4,182 
ft. above the sea, and enjoys a much 
milder climate than that of St. Moritz. 

Of short walks, one of the most 
frequented is that to the castle of 
Tarasp, an ancient pile which has 
passed into the hands of M. Planta of 
Samaden, a distinguished member of 
one of the most distinguished families 
of this part of Switzerland. The vil¬ 
lage of Tarasp adjoins the castle. 
No stranger should omit to visit the 
Moffette, within £ hr. of Schuls, “near 
the old road to Fettan. The name is 
given to two orifices through which 
carbonic acid gas, mingled apparently 
with sulphurous acid, issues in such 


volume that insects, mice, and small 
birds approaching the place fall dead. 
A man walking upright scarcely feels 
any inconvenience, but on stooping 
the respiration is immediately affected. 
The remains of small animals a»e 
usually to be seen in abundance about 
the spot, which is bare of vegetation 
for a considerable space. There are 
many longer excursions, which will 
afford occupation to the mountaineer. 
On the N. side of the Inn the Val 
Clozza, opening at the village of Schuls, 
leads up to the E. base of the Minschuti 
(10,070'). A southern peak of this 
mountain, 9,147 ft. in height, is easy of 
access. The Editor has no notice of 
the ascent of the higher summit. On 
the E. side of Val Clozza is Piz 
Chiamputsch (9,580'). The summit, 
reached in 4 hrs. from Schuls, is said 
to command the finest general view of 
the Lower Engadine. An excursion 
to the head of Val Tasna (§ 34, Rte. H) 
would lead through fine scenery. The 
mountain ranges on the S. side of the 
Inn are probably more attractive than 
the granitic mountains to the N., but 
they have been little explored. The 
higher peaks consist in great part of 
dolomite, and serpentine is present in 
large masses. One of the highest sum¬ 
mits is the Piz Pisoch (10,427'), imme¬ 
diately S. of Tarasp. Towards the S\V. 
is a considerable group of peaks, little 
exceeding 10,000 ft. in height, but 
supporting a large glacier called Va- 
dret Lischannu, which may be reached 
through a short glen called Val Lis- 
chanua. W. of Tarasp the Val Plafna 
flows from the S. into the Inn, while 
the far more considerable Val Scarla 
(§ 37, Rte. K) follows a parallel course, 
and opens into the main valley close to 
Vulpera. By one of the lateral 
branches of this valley, called Val 
Minger, it is easy to reach the head 
of Val Plafna across a rather low pass 
(7,628'), and so return to Tarasp. 
Several rare minerals have been found 
in the lower part of Val Scarla, and 
many interesting objects doubtless 
await the naturalist who will explore 




ROUTE B.—PONTRESINA. 


3D a 


its recesses. Among other rare plants 
found in this neighbourhood may be 
mentioned Linncea borealis , Cortusa 
Mattfuoli, and Cypripedium calceolus. 

The new road from Schuls is carried 
along the 1. bank of the Inn, below 
Sins (4,701'), a village with many large 
houses and tokens of wealth brought 
back by its migratory population. The 
Val d Uina, opening to SE., is seen on 
the opposite side of the Inn. A path 
leads that way to Mals (§ 37, Rte. L). 
The main valley opens out at 

Remus (4,022'). The bridge, span¬ 
ning a narrow cleft through which the 
torrent from Val Sinestra (§ 34, Rte. 
H) enters the Engadine, stands below 
the ruins of Tschianuff, a castle erected 
to defend the valley against the pre¬ 
datory incursions of the Tyrolese. 
From this village the mountaineer may 
ascend the 

Muttler (10,827'), the highest peak 
in the Lower Engadine. It has been 
climbed by M. Weilenmann. A short 
way below Remus the Val Assa- opens 
on the S. side of the Inn. Rather high 
up in this short glen is a curious spring, 
called Fontana Chistaina, said to flow 
regularly three times a day, being dry 
at other times. The valley of the Inn 
between Remus and Martinsbruck is a 
defile, which is almost an unbroken 
continuation of the well-known gorge 
of Finstermunz. The road passes under 
the village of Schleins (5,056'), standing 
on a high terrace 1,400 tt. above the 
river. It was utterly destroyed by fire 
in November 1855. [The head of Val 
Sampuoir , a brunch of the Sanmaunthal 
(§ 34, Rte. H), may be reached from 
Schleins by the Salet Pass (9,565'), a 
hunter’s pass over the ridge E. of 
Muttler.] 

Martinsbruck is commonly spoken 
of as the extreme limit of Swiss ter¬ 
ritory towards the T\rol, but the steep 
1. bank of the Inn belongs to Switzer¬ 
land for a space of four or five miles 
lower down, as far as the opening of 
the Samnaunthal (§ 34, Rte. H). The 
path on that side of the river is a mere 
goat-track, but morepic;uresquethau the 


road which crosses the Inn at Mar¬ 
tinsbruck (3,343'). and enters Austrian 
territory. The passport office and cus¬ 
tom house are close to the bridge. The 
rough road mounts over a projecting 
ridge, and then descends a little to 
reach 

Namiers (Inns : Post; Mondschein). 
4,164 ft. above the sea, on the high road 
from Botzen to Landeck and Inns¬ 
bruck (§ 44). 


Route B. 

8AMADEN TO PONTRESINA—EXCUR¬ 
SIONS FROM PONTRESINA. 

Since the Engadine has become more 
widely known to strangers, the favourite 
resort of mountaineers has been to Pon- 
tresina, a village less than 4 in., from 
Samaden, on the way to the Bernina 
Pass (Rte. K). It is reached by a good 
road that ascends gently along the rt. 
bank of the Flatzbach. In the lower 
village is a clean and comfortable inn 
(Steinboc.k), much quieter than those 
in Ober Pontrcsina, only a few hun¬ 
dred vards farther on. This stands at 
5,915 ft. above the sea, immediately on 
the N. side of the main group of the 
Bernina Aips. The inn (Krone) kept 
here by Gredig has been for some 
years a favourite resort of English tour¬ 
ists. There have been some com¬ 
plaints, but the general testimony is 
favourable. A large well-built house 
(H. Rosegg) has been lately opened. 
The Weisses Kreuz has also very fair 
accommodation, and the obliging host 
knows the country well. Good beer is 
found here. Lodgings may be engaged 
at many of the private houses, those of 
M. Saratz are recommended. 

The visits of strangers have created 
here the profession of guide, and regu¬ 
lations, comprising a tariff, which have 
been the subject of just animadversion, 
have been established. The chief guide 



394 


RH.fETIAN ALPS. 



was J. Colani, son of a famous cha¬ 
mois-hunter, of whose strange career 
Tschudi has given an interesting and 
well known narrative. The present 
Colani knows the mountains thorough¬ 
ly, and has been a good mountaineer, 
but is now past active work. It is to 
the influence of Colani that a narrow 
jealousy of strange guides, whether 
from Switzerland or Chamouni, and 
the extortionate terms demanded for 
the ascent of the higher peaks, have 
been attributed. Jenni and Fleuri, 
long known as the best guides here, no 
longer act. Of the younger men, 
Hans and Chr. Grass, Jacob and Paul 
Mueller, and A. Ambiibl are best 
spoken of. It is a general opinion 
among English travellers that the 
guides here are not so attentive and 
obliging in small matters as those of 
Chamouni and the Oberland usually 
are. This is perhaps owing to the 
fact that they hold a higher social 
position, and that in this part of Swit¬ 
zerland a tone of equality between 
classes is more firmly established than 
in the more frequented districts of the 
Alps. The tariff includes most of the 
minor summits that can by possibility 
attract the attention of a stranger. 
The usual charge for the ascent of 
those between 10.000 and 11,000 ft. is 
from 7 to 10 fr. per guide, while lesser 
excursions are charged 5 or 6 fr. For 
Piz Tschierva, or Piz Corvatsch, the 
charge is 15 fr., and Piz Mortoratsch 
or the Capiitschin 20 fr. So far the 
tariff was not unreasonable. The ex¬ 
travagant demand of 300 fr. for the 
ascent of Piz Bernina, subject to 
increase if there were more than two 
travellers, and the like sum for the 
ascent of Piz Roseg, has been aban¬ 
doned ; the first is marked 80 fr., the 
latter 50 fr. for each guide. Several of 
the guides have collections of dried 
plants for sale. 

A long list of peaks near Pontresina 
might be given, the ascent of which 
may offer agreeable occupation to a 
mountaineer. Of these, Piz Ot and | 
Piz Padella being more conveniently 


G. BERNINA DISTRICT. 

taken from Samaden and Piz Nair 
from St. Moritz, have been noticed 
in the last Rte. The Piz Chalchang 
(10,348'), lying between Val Roseg 
and the Morteratsch Glacier, and the 
Piz Surlei (10,456') between the first- 
named valley and the Inn, are tolerably 
easy of access. 

The following notices of excursions 
from Pontresina are much abridged. 
Visitors who remain some days will 
not fail to purchase the little work by 
Lechner, mentioned in last Rte., which 
will enable them to dispense with a 
guide for many of the easier excursions. 

1. Piz Lanyuard. The indispensa¬ 
ble excursion for visitors to Pontresina 
is the ascent of Piz Languard (10,715'), 
commanding one of the finest pano¬ 
ramic views in the Alps. The ascent, 
which is remarkably easy for a point 
of such height, takes about 3jhrs. A 
horse may be taken (charge 10 fr.) as 
far as the foot of the last peak. A 
practised mountaineer does not require 
a guide. The peak lies about due E. 
of Pontresina, on the N. side of a little 
glen whose stream enters the Flatz- 
bach, ^ m. above the village. The 
ascent is for some way through a wood 
of larch and arolla, then over easy 
slopes of alpine pasture, till the track 
reaches the base of the peak, which is 
chiefly formed of mica slate. The way 
thence lies chiefly among large blocks 
of stone, with patches of snow. The 
top is marked by a wooden cross and 
an iron stanchion. The annexed view 
will give a better idea of the panorama 
than any description. It includes 
Monte Rosa to the W., and the central 
range of the Tyrol Alps to the E. Far 
more striking than the distant peaks in 
the horizon are the great summits of 
the Bernina Alps, rising above the 
Morteratsch Glacier. Potentillafrigida, 
Androsace gJucialis, and Curex Va/dii 
are found on the peak. It is possible 
to make a circuit by a small glacier 
lying SE. of the summit, and descend 
into the Val del Fain by a ridge called 
La Pischa. For this agreeable tour the 
guides claim 10 fr. 







FAN O 1 A I 1 FROM THE P I Z LANGNARB 





































































ROUTE B.—MORTERATSCH GLACIER. 


395 


2. Morteratsch Glacier, Next to the 
Piz Languard, the visit to the Mor- 
teratsch Glacier (Rom. Vadret da 
Morteratsch) is the excursion most re¬ 
commended to visitors at Pontresina. 
To make the position of this and the 
other neighbouring glaciers more clear, 
a few words on the topography of the 
Bernina Alps may be serviceable. The 
principal peaks of the Bernina are dis¬ 
posed in a range running from WSW. 
to ENE., between Piz Tremoggia 
(11,326) and Piz Cambrena (11,835 ), 
or in ridges that project from this cen¬ 
tral range. Half-way between the two 
above-named summits rises the highest 
peak, Piz Bernina (13,294'). This 
occupies the very centre of the group, 
and from it, as well as from the Tre- 
moggia and Cambrena peaks, three 
considerable ridges extend about due 
N. Between the easternmost and the 
middle ridge lies the Morteratsch 
Glacier, while between the latter and 
the western ridge is the Val Itoseg, 
closed at its S. end by the Roseg 
Glacier. 

The Morteratsch Glacier descends 
towards the N., approaching very near 
to the Bernina road, at a point about 
3^ m. above Pontresina, where it comes 
to an end in a gorge, near to a tine 
waterfall of the Flatzbach. The lower 
part of the glacier is easily traversed, 
and a rough track has been carried 
along both banks, used by the sheep 
that are pastured on the slopes. The 
excursion from Pontresina is often ex¬ 
tended as far as the chalet of Boval, 
occupied in summer by Bergamasque 
shepherds. It stands on the 1. bank of 
the glacier, and is reached in about 2 j 
hrs. from the high road. A first at¬ 
tempt by the guides Jenni and Fleuri 
to provide a hut for the convenience of 
mountaineers at a place much higher 
than Boval failed owing to the irregu¬ 
lar incursions of the glacier stream. 
A new hut has been completed by the 
aid of the Swiss Alpine Club, and will 
doubtless be serviceable for long expe¬ 
ditions. There being now so many 
rival mountaineers in this district it 


may sometimes be found overcrowded. 
Those who wish to traverse a part of 
the glacier usually go to the Isla Pers 
(8,169'), a projecting rock, whose posi¬ 
tion recalls that of the Jardin near 
Chamouni, which rises from the lower 
pait of the Vadret Pers. This is a 
much-broken lateral glacier, descend¬ 
ing towards the NW. from the ridge 
connecting the Piz Palii, Piz Cam¬ 
brena, and Mont Pers. Below the Isla 
Pers it joins the main ice-stream of the 
Morteratsch, descending from the S. in 
an almost unbroken ice-fall from the 
highest crest of the Bernina group con¬ 
necting the Piz Zupo, Cresta Agiuza, 
and Piz Bernina. The Piz Zupo is 
the summit lying due S. along the axis 
of the Morteratsch Glacier; the rather 
higher Piz Bernina lies SW., at the 
origin of the range dividing the Mor¬ 
teratsch and Roseg Glaciers. Speaking 
generally, the lower part of the Mor¬ 
teratsch Glacier is easily traversed in 
all directions, while above its junction 
with the Pers Glacier both ice streams 
are much crevassed, and the assist¬ 
ance of thoroughly good guides is 
required for all expeditions above that 
limit. 

3. Tour of Mont Pers. Diavolezza 
Pass. The E. side of the Morteratsch 
glacier, below the junction of the Vadret 
Pers, is bounded by a moderately high 
rugged mass, called Mont Pers. The 
highest point, reaching 10,532 ft., but 
little surpasses the general height ol 
the ridge extending along the NE. side 
of the Pers Glacier towards the higher 
mass of Piz Cambrena. One of the 
most agreeable excursions from Pon¬ 
tresina is to make the tour of the Mont 
Pers, mounting by the Morteratsch 
Glacier, and returning by the Bernina 
road. A good rope, ice-axe, and a 
trusty guide (charge 12 fr.) are ad¬ 
visable, as the Pers Glacier is always 
much broken, and sometimes difficult. 
The Isla Pers, when approached by the 
most direct course, is reached in from 
4 to 5 hrs. from Pontresina. The way 
lies a little N. of E. from the summit 
of the Isia Pers, across a much-cre- 






RH.ETIAN ALPS. 


§ 36. BERNINA DISTRICT. 


o JU 

vassed piece of glacier, to the foot of a 
slope of rough debris, with patches of 
snow, leading in about 2 hrs. from the 
island of rock to the Diavolezza Pass 
(9,670' [R.C.N.]). This commands a 
very beautiful view of the Bernina 
peaks on the one side, and the Orteler 
Alps on the other. The descent is 
by a snow-slope to the highest of a 
chain of small tarns, whose name (Dia¬ 
volezza) has been given to the pass. 
Overlooking the lakes at the summit 
of the Bernina Pass, a rough track 
follows the torrent, and in 2 easy hrs. 
from the pass reaches the Bernina Inn. 
In 2 hrs. more the traveller returns to 
Pontresina. 

Mr. and Mrs. Winkworth made, in 
1863, a longer circuit by a pass nearer 
the Piz Cambrena, descending by the 
Val d’Arli, and reaching the high¬ 
road at the same point as by the last- 
named pass. 

4. Roseg Glacier . Next to the Mor- 
teratsch, the Roseg Glacier is the most 
considerable of those connected with 
the Bernina group. It is formed by 
the confluence of two nearly equal 
ice-streams. The S. branch, or true 
Vadret da Roseg, originates in the 
ridge connecting the Piz Roseg, La 
Sella, and the Capiitschin. The SE. 
branch, or Vadret da Tsclderva, lies 
on the other side of Piz Roseg, and is 
enclosed by that peak, the Piz Ber¬ 
nina, and Piz Morteratsch. In the 
fork between the two glaciers is a 
rocky promontory called Agagliogs 
(9,078'). The Roseg Glacier below 
the junction is much shorter than its 
rival, and extends but about 1 m. into 
the valley that opens close to the vil¬ 
lage of Pontresina. There is a rough 
char-road through the glen, and it is 
an easy walk of 2g hrs. to reach the 
foot of the glacier. The slopes on the 
W. side still support some fine arollas. 
Of several chalets in the valley, that of 
Misauna (6,578') is nearest the glacier, 
and supplies the best quarters. The 
favourite excursion is io the summit 
of the Agagliogs rock, a point which 
may be reached by ladies, about 5 hrs. 


distant from Pontresina. Charge for 
a guide (unreasonable) —10 fr. Mr. 
Tuckett found a plateau on the E. 
side of Piz Corvatsch, above the 1. 
bank of the glacier, commanding a still 
finer view, and returned thence in 2^ hrs. 
to Pontresina, passing the chalets of 
Ota, and enjoying delightful views of the 
neighbouring peaks. Trientalis europea, 
extremely rare in the Alps, has been 
found in Val Roseg. 

5. Ascent of Piz Bernina (13,294'). 
This remarkable peak was first reached 
in 1850 by M. Coaz, and next by 
M. Saratz of Pontresina. The inter¬ 
esting description of the ascent, given 
by Mr. E. S. Kennedy in the Second 
Series of ‘ Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,’ 
is well known to most readers. The 
expedition is at all times difficult and 
laborious, and in some states of the 
snow has been found impossible. A 
much shorter course than that followed 
by Messrs. Kennedy and Hardy has, 
however, been lately adopted. In¬ 
stead of making a great circuit by the 
rocks called ‘ Festung der Gemsen 
Freiheit,’ in the ridge extending NNW. 
from Piz Paid, it has been found 
possible to ascend by the W. side of 
the great ice-fall of the Morteratsch. 
This saves fully 3 hrs. on the old 
route, but is not altogether free from 
risk from avalanches, and requires the 
aid of first-rate guides. This leads 
by a very direct course to the crest of 
the ridge between the Cresta Agiuza 
and the Piz Bernina, which itself 
commands a magnificent view. This, 
called by M. E. N. Buxton Cresta 
Agiuza Sattel (11,930'), was traversed 
as a pass between Val Malenco and 
Pontresina by Mr. Tuckett in 1866, 
who on the same occasion reached the 
summit of Piz Bernina along the crest. 

Messrs. E. N. Buxton, W. F. Digby, 
W. E. Hall, A. Johnston, and N. 
Woodmass, with Jenni, Fleuri, and 
Walther as guides, reached the sum¬ 
mit of the Piz Pa lit (12,835') by the 
ridge to the E. of the summit. The "wea¬ 
ther being very unfavourable, no view 
was obtained. Piz Zupo (13,120') was 





ROUTE B.—ASCENT OF PIZ ROSEG. 


31)7 


reached in 1863 by MM. Enderlin 
and Serardy, with a chamois-hunter 
named Padruit. 

6. Ascent of Piz Morteratsch (12.316'). 
The ascent of Piz Morteratsch, the 
highest summit of the ridge dividing 
the Roseg and Morteratsch Glaciers, 
is a safe and not difficult expedition. 
The tariff price for a guide is only 
20 fr., while 50 fr. (?) are demanded 
for the Piz Roseg. The descent to 
the Boval chalet on the Morteratsch 
Gl., spoken of in the following note 
by Messrs. Blore and Gosling, is ex¬ 
tremely steep, and a party attempting 
that course in 1864 was very nearly lost 
in an avalanche. 

‘ We left the Roseg (Misauna ?—Ed.) 
chalet (good quarters) at 4.30 a.m. , 
reached the top of the rocks in 2 hrs. 
40 min., halted 40 min. for breakfast, 
and gained the summit at 9.30. De¬ 
scended to the Boval chalet in 3 hrs.’ 
[Mr. Bonney has pointed out in ‘Alpine 
Journal,’ No. 23,a pleasant variation on 
the ordinary route.) 

7. Ascent of Piz Roseg. This rises 
very boldly between the Roseg and 
Tschierva glaciers; its highest portion 
includes two peakes. The higher, mea¬ 
suring 12,936 ft., is connected by an 
extremely sharp arete with a seeond 
northern peak, lower only by 52 ft. 
From the latter a rocky ridge, partly 
covered wi h neve, extends NNW. to the 
Atragliogs promontory, which divides 
the two great glaciers named above. 
The N. peak has been ascended by Mr. 
Bircham in 1863, and afterwards by 
M. Weillenmann, and M. Speeht of 
Vienna, by a hanging glacier that falls 
from the SW, side of the ridge to the 
upper neve of the Roseg Gl. The very 
difficult passage of the arete leading 
from the second to the highest peak was 
first accomplished in 1865 by Messrs. A. 
W. Moore and H. Walker, with Jacob 
Anderegg as guide. 

The Piz Sella was ascended in 1863 
by Messrs. E. N. Buxton, W. F. Digby, 
and A. Johnston. It has two peaks 
close together, of which the higaest 
reaches 11,805 ft. The Piz Tschierva 


(1 l .7 13'), Piz Corvatsch (11,345'), and 

| Capiitsvhiu (11,132') are all easy ol 
access. The Pontresina tariff fixes 
rates varying from 12 to 25 fr. for a 
guide to the summit. 

8. Tour of Piz Surlei by the Surlei 
Fuorcla. It has been mentioned in 
Rte. A that there is an easy and 
charming walk, in great part through 
forest, from Pontresina to St. Moritz 
by the Statzer See, Acla, and the SE. 
side of the Lake of St. Moritz. A mo¬ 
derate walker may enjoy a very pleas¬ 
ing excursion by proceeding from St. 
Moritz to the hamlet of Surlei, WNW. 
of the peak of that name, and then 
following a track to the S. along the 1, 
bank of a torrent. After passing a 
chalet, the course is up a projecting 
slope towards a black rock seen from 
the valley of the Inn, and then bears 
to the 1. till the torrent is again reached 
at the foot of a little glacier on the N. 
side of Piz Corvatsch. It is better to 
pass below the end of the glacier, 
when a short ascent will lead the tra¬ 
veller to the Surlei Fuorcla (9,042'), 
commanding a noble view of both 
the Roseg and Tschierva Glaciers and 
the great peaks enclosing them. Fron 
the pass the traveller may descend 
towards the foot of the Roseg Glacier, or 
else bear to the h, and so shorten the 
way to Pontresina. The tour requires 
7 or 8 hrs., exclusive of halts. 

9. Tour of Piz Corvatsch. A much 
more laborious excursion than the last 
is the tour of Fiz Corvatsch, effected 
by a pass c * 1 led Fe.t Fuorcla (10,112'), 
between that peak and the Capiitschin. 
Some travellers, instead of crossing the 
pass, mount an adjoining summit 
called Cima da Fex—apparently that 
marked 3,302 metres = 10,833 ft. in the 
Swiss Federal map. The descent into 

| the Val Fex, some way below the 
glacier at its head, is very steep. As 

j mentioned in Rte. A, the Val Fex 
opens out near the hamlets of Maria 
and Sils. and the return to Pontresina 
is by the high road. A long day is 
required for the expedition, but the 
tired traveller may engage a vehicle 





398 


RHiETIAN ALPS. § 36- B3RNINA DISTRICT. 


at Silvaplana for his return to Pon- 
tresina. 

10. T e Val del Fain. This excur¬ 
sion is chiefly recommended to botan¬ 
ists, and especially to those who may 
reach Pontresina early enough to find 
the rich vegetation in perfection. The 
Val del Fain is a glen opening into the 
Bernina road, a little above the Ber¬ 
nina Inn. The name is derived from 
the richness and abundance of its hay. 
At its eastern E. is a pass leading into 
Val Livigno, and another to the N., 
into Val. Chiamuera (Rte. A). 


Route C. 

BEVERS TO ST. MORITZ, BY VAL BEVER. 

The great majority of travellers will 
always follow the high road between 
Bevers and St. Moritz; but to the 
naturalist or the geologist there are 
many inducements to turn aside at the 
first-named village, and to make a cir¬ 
cuit by the line of valley which cuts 
off the group of peaks connected with 
Piz Ot from the adjoining mass of Piz 
d : Err and its associated summits. 

The Val Bever is a comparatively 
deep trench parallel to that of the 
Albula Pass (§ 35, Rte. C), but lying 
at a considerably lower level. The 
lower part is so nearly flat that a char- 
road is carried nearly 3 m from Bevers 
for the convenience of the herdsmen of 
the valley. In 2^ hrs. from Bevers the 
track reaches a group of chalets at a 
point where the valley forks. The SW. 
branch, traversed by a torrent from the 
Glaciers of Piz d’ Err and Cima da Flix, 
retains the name Val Bever, while a 
branch descending from the S. is called 
Val Suvretta. The Val Bever is often 
visited by botanists, being considered 
the richest locality for rare plants in 
this district. Ranunculus parnassifolius, 
Lychius Jlos Joins, Dianthus glacia'is, 
Saxifraga controversa. Valeriana su- 
*una , several curious hybrid gentians, 


Pedicularis incarnata,Kobresia caricina , 
Carex Vahlii, and C. mici oglochin, are 
among the most interesting species. 
Following the Val Suvretta, the travel¬ 
ler reaches a flattened saddle betweer 
Piz Nair (10,040') and Piz Suvretta 
(10,085'). A small tarn rests on the 
ridge which may conveniently be called 
Suvretta Pass (8,589'), and a glen falls 
towards the SE. to Campfer. A tra- 
v.-ller with a guide may reach St. 
Moritz by a more interesting rte., pass¬ 
ing along the S. side of Piz Nair to the 
Alp Giop, and thence to St. Moritz. 

The geologist will find occupation in 
tracing the palteozoic and secondary 
rocks in the ranges enclosing the head 
of Val Bever. There is a difficult 
glacier pass connecting the head of the 
valley with the Val d'Agnelli near the 
Julier Pass, and another, not less ar¬ 
duous. into the Val d’Err, by the NE. 
side of the Piz d’Err (§ 35, Rte. A). 

Route D. 

TOUR OF THE BERNINA—SELLA PASS. 

Since English, Swiss, and German 
mountaineers have made the Bernina 
Alps their favourite resort, several new 
passes have been discovered, and there 
is now a choice between various routes 
for making a tour of the principal 
group. This expedition can be r com¬ 
mended only to pract sed mountaineers, 
with good guides and fine weather 
Nearly all the travellers who have 
made the tour here indicated have 
sought shelter at the Fellaria Alp , a 
group of chalets lying in the upper part 
of a lateral glen of Val Malenco (Rte. 
G), and there is but one direct course 
between that place and Pontresina by 
the W. side of the Piz Benina, which 
is that described below as the Sella 
Pass. On the E. side of the P. Bernina 
there is open to the mountaineer a 
choice between various routes which 
are here bri fly indicated. In regard 
to high glacier passes, such as those 
here noticed, the writer does not believe 
that directions given in a guide-book 





ROUTE D.—SELLA PASS. 


399 


can supply the need of local knowledge, 
or at all events of the aid of a first-rate 
guide. 

1. By the Passo Iiovano (8,596'). 
This is the least circuitous way for 
reaching the Fellaria Alp from Pontre- 
sina for those who do not wish to under¬ 
take a glacier pass. The way is by the 
high road of the Bernina as far as the 
Lago Nero, and thence by the Cavaglia 
track (Rte. K) to the Palii Alp. From 
those chalets there is little difficulty in 
skirting the slopes of the Cornicella 
(9,223'), and the spurs of the Pizzo di 
Verona, keeping to the rt., as high as 
the nature of the ground will allow, 
until the pass is attained lying at the 
S. side of the last named peak. It is 
indicated without a name on the Swiss 
Federal Map. It leads into the NE. 
branch of the Val di Campo Moro 
(Rte. I), close to the lower end of the 
Fellaria Glacier. It is necessary to 
cross a glacier stream, and ascend on 
the opposite, or W. side, in order to 
reach the highest chalets of Fellaria, 
which are thus reached in 7 hrs. walk¬ 
ing from the Bernina Inn, or 9 hrs. 
from Pontresina. 

2. By the Passo di Gambre. This 
name is given on the Austrian Map of 
Lombardy to the pass connecting the 
Palii and Fellaria glaciers, though the 
dotted line on that map does not cor¬ 
respond with the course which must be 
taken, and the pass seems to be un¬ 
known to the natives. It is advisable 
to sleep at the Palii Alp, or Griim Alp 
(Rte. K). or else to start before day¬ 
light from the Bernina inn. Skirting 
the slopes above the N. side of the Palii 
glacier, the 1. moraine is reached in 
If hr. from the Griim Alp, just above 
the lower ice-fall. In ^ hr. the nearly 
level part of the glacier is traversed to 
the foot of the higher ice-fall. Early in 
the season it seems not difficult to con¬ 
tinue the ascent by the glacier, but it 
may sometimes be necessary to bear to 
the" 1., and cling to the rocks of the 
ridge connecting Piz Cambrena with 
Piz Palii. By keeping well to the 1. 
near to Piz Zupo, the descent of the 


Fellaria Gl. is effected without serious 
difficulty, and the route of the Sella 
Pass is joined about 2^ hrs. above the 
Fellaria Alp. 

3 By the Cambrena Sattel. In 1865 
several expeditions were made with a 
view to reach the upper neve of the 
Palii Gl. by the Cambrena Glacier, a 
more direct course from the Bernina 
Inn than that last described. This is 
best effected by the Cambrena Sattel , 
a well-marked gap in the ridge E. of 
the Piz Cambrena. It may be reached 
from the Bernina Inn in 2i hrs. Bear¬ 
ing to the rt., over shaly slopes, from 
this gap; the traveller may either ascend 
by the upper ice-fall, or by steep rocks 
on the N. side of the Palii Glacier, 
joining the route of the Passo di Gam¬ 
bre. By this way the Fellaria Alp was 
reached in 12^ hrs. from the Bernina 
Inn. 

4 By the Palii Pass. It is obvious 
from a glance at the map that the most 
direct way from PoDtresina to the 
upper plateau of the Palii and Fellaria 
Glaciers is by the Morteratsch Gl., 
supposing it possible to find a practi¬ 
cable pass between Piz Cambrena and 
Piz Zupo. That which alone may be 
considered tolerably direct lies very 
near the summit of Piz Palii, between 
the highest peak and the rather lower 
W. peak. The glacier difficulties in 
ascending from the Isla Pers (Rte. B) 
try the skill of the guides and the 
steadiness of the travellers; and the de¬ 
scent, whether by rocks or by an ice- 
couloir, is extremely steep. This 
course was taken in 1864 by Messrs. 
Freslifield, Beachcroft, and Walker. 
It is possible to pass the ridge between 
the Morteratsch and Fellaria Gl. farther 
W. on either side of the projecting 
rocks called Bella Vista, but this course 
is more circuitous, though the pass is 
much lower. 

The form and position of the glaciers 
on the S. side of the Bernina group 
deserve especial attention. Although 
the valleys descending towards Val 
Tellina all tend more or less directly to 
the S., the reservoirs in which the neve 



400 


RELET1AN ALPS. 


§ 36. BERNINA DISTRICT. 


of these extensive glaciers is accumu¬ 
lated are formed by ridges running E. 
and W. The Scerscen Glacier is formed 
of two such reservoirs, resembling 
frozen lakes rather than glaciers, one 
being at a much higher level than the 
other; and it seems probable that the 
same conditions obtain in the Fellaria 
Glacier, which has been very imper¬ 
fectly explored. 

From the upper chalets of the Fel¬ 
laria Alp, which are deserted at the 
end of August, the way to the Sella 
Pass is by a rather long ascent over 
6teep but not difficult rocks, avoiding 
an ice-couloir which is left on the rt., 
till, in 2^- hrs. from the Alp, the neve 
of the Fellaria Glacier is reached. The 
lower plateau of this glacier is nearly 
level with the upper plateau of Scer- 
scen, and by bearing first NW., and 
tnen W. below the rocky ridge de¬ 
scending from Piz Zupo, the low 
rounded ridge of neve dividing the two 
glaciers is crossed. The way then lies 
a little N. of W. over an unbroken field 
of neve commanding glorious views in 
every direction, until the Sella Pass is 
attained in about 5 hrs. from the 
chalets; 24 hrs. suffice for the descent 
to the foot of the Roseg Glacier, and 
2 hrs. more to Pontresina. 

The only important pass not yet 
achieved in this district is that from the 
Tschierva to the head of the Scerscen 
Glacier, between Piz Bernina and Piz 
Roseg. 

Route E. 

COLICO TO BORMIO, BY THE VAL 

TELLINA. 




Eng. 


Kilometres 

miles 

Morbesno 

17 

10f 

Soitdrio . 

25A 

J5 

Tirano . . 

. 2(5* 


Bo'll adore 

. 194 

m 

Bormio . 

19 

12 


1074 

674 


Diligences run daily in summer be¬ 
tween Bormio and Tirano, and every 
day between that place and Colieo, 
although they have ceased to traverse 


the Stelvio pass since 1859. Light car¬ 
riages can usually be hired at a reason¬ 
able rate. The road here described 
forms a portion of the great military 
road of the Stelvio, constructed by the 
Austrian Government at a vast expense, 
between the years 1822 and 1825, to 
connect Milan with the Tyrol. 

The Val Tellina (Germ. Veltlin) is 
one of the great valleys of the Alps 
that by its dimensions, its historical 
recollections, and the beautiful and 
varied scenery of the main valley and 
its tributaries, best deserves the atten¬ 
tion of strangers ; but, in part owing to 
the fact that it lies out of the ordinary- 
track of English tourists, in -part to the 
bad reputation of the lower portion, 
supposed to breed intermittent fevers, 
it has tailed to attract much attention. 
Except at Colieo, there is no risk of 
malaria, but the great heat of the valley 
below Tirano repels the lovers of moun¬ 
tain air. 

The people of the Val Tellina are 
characteristically Italian, though they 
have but lately become citizens of the 
constitutional monarchy. Long sub¬ 
ject to the Grisons’ leagues, who lorded 
it over them with a heavy hand, they 
were annexed to the Austrian states in 
1815. They owe to that government 
the great road that traverses the valley, 
along with an unbearable load of taxa¬ 
tion. Though it has suffered much 
from destructive inundations—a mis¬ 
chief much aggravated by the unwise 
cutting down of the forests—the valley 
is extremely fertile, producing much 
fine s lk, and some excellent wines. 

From Colieo, nearly to Tirano, the 
valley mounts very gently, and about 
due E. It is then turned NE. until it 
reaches its natural termination at the 
defile of Morignone. Here the Adda, 
formed by the confluence of two copious 
torrents flow ing in opposite directions, 
and meeting near Bormio, descends from 
the N. through the Serra di Morignone. 
This was long the political boundary of 
Val Tellina. Bormio struggled for a 
separate existence, or underwent the 
sway of many successive masters. 






ROUTE E.—MORBEGNO. 


401 


The military road is carried nearly 
due E. from Colico to Morbegno, along 
the S side of the marshy tract that 
has been formed by the detritus of the 
Adda; the high wooded spurs of the 
Monte Spluga to the N., and the Le- 
gnone to the S., form fine pictures. The 
boundary of Val Tellina is reached 
about 3 m. from Colico. Nearly 6 m. 
from that place is Delebio, near the 
o' ening of a mountain glen ( Val La- 
sina), through which a steep and rough 
track leads to Premana (§ 38, Rte. H). 
On the opposite side of the Adda, at 
some distance from the stream, is 
Traona , the chief village on that 
bank. 

Morbegno (Inn: Regina d'lnghil- 
terra, good; the cellars used to contain 
some excellent wine of the valley), 
stands on rising ground, 853 ft. above 
the sea, near the site of the ancient 
town. This was partly destroyed by a 
great landslip, and consequent inun¬ 
dation of the Bitto, which here enters 
the valley from the N. (For the 
passes at the head of Val di Bitto, see 
§ 38 .) 

This is a substantial country town, 
with a fine church. There is a com¬ 
manding view from the hill on which 
stood the ancient castle, reached by the 
paved path leading into the Val di Bitto. 

A long stretch of straight road, first 
descending, then remounting, takes the 
traveller for the first time near to the 
1. bank of the Adda, and after follow¬ 
ing its course for a.short way, crosses 
to the rt. bank at the base of a steep 
rocky hill. On rounding this obstacle, 
the opening of Val Masino (Rte. F) is 
seen to the 1., and the road crosses the 
copious torrent that escapes from it, 
which is held in by massive dykes 
from inundating the surrounding fields 
and meadows. Before long the main 
road returns to the 1. bank to avoid a 
great bend of the river, and in rather 
more than 2 m. again takes to the rt. 
bank, to which it adheres until it 
reaches Tirano. This part of the val¬ 
ley is in some degree defaced by the 
encroachments of the Adda, whose un- 
PART n. 


governable stream often changes its 
course during inundations. Thus it 
may be seen, that in the part of the 
valley now traversed, a little SW. 
of the village of Berbenno, the river 
no longer follows the course repre¬ 
sented in so recent a map as the Swiss 
Federal Survey. It is not only the 
main stream, and the torrents which 
enter it from the large lateral valleys, 
that continually threaten the native of 
Val Tellina with destruction to the 
fruits of his industry. The trifling 
channels on the slopes of the moun¬ 
tains, nearly dry in ordinary weather, 
are liable to swell in a few hours to 
formidable proportions, and to bear 
down with them stones and earth, 
under -which the vineyard created bv 
patient labour may be buried in a few 
moments. The mischief mainly arises 
from the violence of the rains that fall 
on the S. side of the Alps, far exceed¬ 
ing anything usual in Switzerland, but 
it has been aggravated by the rash re¬ 
moval of many of the forests from the 
flanks of the mountains and the upper 
valleys. As an illustration, it is sai 1 
that the commune of Perbenno, a vil¬ 
lage standing N. of the high road, sold 
a great part of the woods above it for 
138,000 francs, and that the damage 
since done by inundations and land¬ 
slips due to the same cause amounts to 
700,000 fr. 

On the S. side of the A dda are seen 
two valleys— ValMadre and ValCervo 
— each leading to a pass into Val 
Brembana. About 3 m. farther, on 
the same side of the Adda, is seen the 
village of Cajulo, at the opening of the 
more considerable Val del Livrio, also 
leading to the upper end of Val Brem¬ 
bana. The Pizza Vespolo (7,648') is a 
prominent point on the W. side of Val 
del Livrio, and must command a very 
fine view of the Bernina Alps and the 
other ranges enclosing Val Tellina. 
'l o the 1. of the high road are the vine¬ 
yards of Sasselia, producing one of the 
most esteemed wines of the valley. 

Sondrio (Inns: Alb. della Madda- 
lena, fair; Corona, or Post, perhaps 


O 1) 




402 


RELETIAN ALPS. 


§36. BERNINA DISTRICT. 


the best; Angelo, small and cheap) is 
the chief town of Yal Tellina, once 
seat of a governor, now of the prefect 
of the province. Though not large, it 
has somewhat of the air of a city, con¬ 
taining many good houses and edu¬ 
cated inhabitants. The mineralogist 
may easily obtain permission to see 
the collection of Signor Giuseppe Ser¬ 
toli ; and a botanist will probably not 
find it difficult to inspect the local 
herbarium of Signor Ferrari. The 
town stands at 1,198 ft. above the sea, 
at the junction of Val Malenco with 
the main valley. The Malero torrent 
issuing from it is one of the most de¬ 
structive in Val Tellina. Many new 
buildings in the town occupy the sites 
of houses carried away by it in 1834. 
A massive embankment is designed to 
protect the town, and to lead the tor¬ 
rent into the Adda; but every heavy 
fall of rain threatens danger to the in¬ 
habitants. It is well worth while to 
make a slight ascent to the ancient 
castle, called Masegra, commanding a 
very fine view of the town and its 
neighbourhood. On the opposite bank 
of the Malero, the local antiquaries 
point out the site of the original city 
founded by the Tusci. 

Few places present more remarkable 
contrasts than the neighbourhood of 
Sondrio. Within a few miles of the 
glaciers of the Bernina and the Monte 
della Disgrazia, we have here the cli¬ 
mate and the vegetation of the shores 
of the Mediterranean. The fig-tree 
and opuntia have run wild, the pome¬ 
granate ripens its fruit, and d> licate 
Southern shrubs are seen in ail the 
gardens. 

Cretinism and goitre exist, in many 
of the villages between Sondrio and 
Tirano. It is said that the valley 
would not be habitable in summer, but 
for the currents of air introduced 
through the lateral valleys to the N. 
and S., and the western breeze, here 
called breva, blowing from the Lake of 
Como during the day-time in hot 
weather. 

On leaving the town, the road passes 


near a fine new hospital, built for 
14,000/. at the cost of a private inha¬ 
bitant named Pelosi. On the slopes to 
the 1. of the road are the vineyards of 
Montagna, producing a wine that ranks 
next after the Sassella and Inferno. 
The last-named comes from a vine¬ 
yard near Pendolasco, about 2 m. from 
Montagna. Since the grape disease, 
it has been difficult to obtain the finer 
qualities of Val Tellina wine tolerably 
pure, except in private houses. On the 
S. side of the Adda, near Piateda, opens 
Val Ambria, one of the chief valleys 
on that side of the river. Of its two 
main branches, one descends from the 
E., the other from the W. side of the 
P/zzo del Diavolo (9,574'). The first 
leads to the Val Seriana, the second to 
Val Brembana. The portion of the 
main valley, extending hence to Tirano, 
is the least interesting part of the pre¬ 
sent Rte. Numerous large villages are 
scattered along the sunny slopes on the 
N. side of the river. Several of them 
were in turn important places during 
the Middle Ages, when one or the 
other was chosen as the residence of 
some local potentate. It would be in¬ 
teresting to ascertain the true nature 
of the great mound on which stands 
the village of Tresivio, conspicuous 
from a distance. Some have supposed 
it the remains of a bergfall; it may be 
part of an ancient moraine. At Chiuro 
is the opening of Val Fontana. There 
must be a pass to Le Prese (Rte. K) 
from the head of that glen, though 
none is indicated on the Swiss Federal 
map. On that map is laid down a 
pass over the glacier on the S. side 
of the Pizza Scalino (10,925'), by 
which a mountaineer could return to 
Sondrio through a branch of Val Ma¬ 
lenco called Val Antognasco. Nearly 
3 m. beyond Chiuro, the main valley is 
for the first time contracted between 
the opposing bases of the mountains, 
at a place called San Giacomo ; but it 
soon opens out again, and the road is 
carried at some distance from the 
Adda, and about 12 m. from Sondrio 
the road reaches 




ROUTE E.—TIRANO. 


403 


Tresenda. Here a bridge across the 
river has been constructed for the new 
road over the Aprica Pass to Edolo, in 
Val Camonica, § 39. Rte. E. The tra¬ 
veller not pressed for time will do well 
to mount as far as the place called Bel¬ 
vedere, and enjoy the remarkable view, 
extending fully 30 m. along the valley 
of the Adda. In a carriage it takes 
2 hrs. to ascend from Tresenda, and 
1 hr. to return. A pedestrian, availing 
himself of short cuts, will mount in 
1 ^ hr. From the lower part of the new 
road a path to the rt. enters the Val 
Caronella , which leads due S. to a high 
pass connecting Tirano with the head 
of Val Seriana (§ 38). 

On the slope of the mountain, NW. 
of Tresenda, all built up in terraces for 
vines, is Teglio, once the capital of the 
valley to which it has given its name 
(Val Teglina, corrupted into Val Tel- 
lina), and formerly inhabited by power¬ 
ful families. It is now a mere rural 
village, whose inhabitants sutler much 
from a destructive torrent. Leaving to 
the 1. Bianzone and Villa , the road 
keeps along the flat, passing (about 3 m. 
from Tirano) an ancient arch under 
which the Adda flowed until 1817, 
when it made for itself a new channel. 
About 2 m. farther is the bridge over 
the Poschiavino torrent, which is 
carried thence between massive dykes 
to join the Adda. Here the traveller 
reaches the famous sanctuary of La 
Madonna di. Tirano , where a church, 
rich with precious marbles, has annually 
drawn thousands of pilgrims since its 
foundation in 1520. The Inn (San 
Michele) is better than those at Tirano, 
and the position more attractive. Here 
the road of the Bernina Pass (Rte. K) 
enters from the Engadine, and the snowy 
peaks seen to the NW. offer a striking 
contrast to the richness of the fore¬ 
ground. The view from the terrace of 
the church of Sta. Perpetua is extremely 
fine,and the ruined fortress of Plattamala 
on the Swiss frontier, only 1 m. distant, 
is worth a visit. A fine avenue of pop¬ 
lars, nearly 1 m. in length, leads from 
I iU Madonna to 


Tirano (Inns: Due Torri, tolerable ; 
Angelo), formerly a walled town of 
great strength, now open on all sides, 
lying on the 1. bank of the Adda, at 
1,509 ft. above the sea. The traveller 
is surprised to find in this remote 
country town the stately mansions 
(palazzi ) of many existing noble fa¬ 
milies whose ancestors played a pro- 
minentpart in the troubled and eventful 
history of the Val Tellina. The church 
of San Martino has a fine organ, 
but there is not much here that need 
detain a stranger. The high road is 
now carried along the 1. bank of the 
Adda, and soon reaches a point at the 
junction of a torrent from Val Chiosa, 
where the river is contracted between 
the bases of the mountains. This is the 
natural boundary between the middle 
portion of the valley of the Adda, and 
the lower valley extending hence with 
a very gentle slope to the L. of Como. 
In 1807 a berg-fall from the Monte 
Masuccio (9,252'), on the NW. side of 
the valley, fell into the defile, and 
dammed the course of the river. The 
waters accumulated to a considerable 
height, and at the village of Lovero 
the traveller may see a mark on a house 
18 ft. above the ground, recording the 
utmost limit of the waters. The dam 
seems to have yielded gradually, as the 
damage done in the neighbourhood of 
Tirano was less serious than might 
have been expected. Many ruined 
castles may be seen on either side of 
the river, as this entrance into Italy 
was always deemed of the utmost im¬ 
portance, and for many centuries the 
unfortunate inhabitants rarely enjoyed 
a long respite from the presence of 
foreign troops. At Mazzo, where the 
church has a fine altar-piece by Ma- 
lacrida, the road returns to the rt. bank, 
and soon reaches Grosotto (2,188'), 
where the Iloasco torrent issues from 
Val Grosina. There is an Inn (Posta), 
and near to it the house of Giacomo 
Robustelli, wherein was laid the plan 
of a massacre that combined the ele¬ 
ments of the Sicilian Vespers and the 
slaughter of St. Bartholomew, equalling 





404 


RILETIAN ALPS. 


§ 3G. BERNINA DISTRICT. 


both of them in unsparing ferocity. 
Patriotic feeling urged the leaders to 
throw off the yoke of the Grisons rulers, 
and religious hatred prompted their 
destruction as heretics. When the 
blow was struck, and every hand was 
raised against the fugitives, equally 
hated as foreign usurpers and as Pro¬ 
testants, the people of Morbegno were 
alone distinguished by the charitable 
reception which they accorded to their 
enemies. [The Val Grosina is one of 
the neglected valleys of the Alps that 
has not as yet attracted the attention 
of travellers or men of science. A few 
miles above Grosotto it divides into 
two equal branches, one extending 
about due N., the other due W. The 
first of these leads to an easy pass E. 
of the Pizzo di Dosde, and a traveller 
might go that way from Grosotto to 
Bormio, descending through Val di 
Verra into Val Viola, and so reaching 
the Val di Dentro (Rte. L) The W. 
branch of Val Grosina might well be 
taken in the way from Bormio to Pon- 
tresina, as it is connected by at least 
four passes with the valley of Poschiavo. 
Reckoning from S. to N., the Forcula di 
Braga (8.435') leads to Le Prese : the 
Forcola di Sassigliune {8,333'), and 
Forcola di Bosso (8,819'), afford a more 
direct way to Poschiavo, the one to the 
S., the other to the N. of the Pizzo 
Sassalbo (9377'). More interesting than 
these is probably the Passo di Sacco 
(9,026'), between the Pizzo di Teo 
(10,007') and Cimadi Saoseo (10,729'). 
The latter pass does not lead directly 
into the valley of Poschiavo. The 
track descends into the Val di Campo 
(Rte. L), about 1 hr. above the point 
where it opens on the high road of the 
Bernina. The traveller coming from 
Bonnio need not descend to Grosotto 
in order to enter Val Grosina, as there 
is a track from Sondalo by the Passo 
del Gatto ; but this is said to be a high 
and somew'hat difficult pass.] 

After passing Grosio, the road soon 
reaches a bridge that carries it to the 1. 
bank of the Adda. Here a path is seen 
to the rt., marked with a finger-post to 


Mortirolo. This leads by the Passo 
Mortirolo (6,053') and a lateral valley 
of the same name to Val Camonica, 
which is entered about f hr. above 
Edolo. 

The portion of the valley now tra¬ 
versed by the high road is extremely 
picturesque. To the rt. is a tempting 
cemetery, where the departed rest under 
the shade of noble chestnut-trees. '1 he 
Miggiondo torrent enters the valley 
from the N. through a gorge, and on 
the rt. of the road bold rocks give 
shade from the noonday heat. The 
last chestnut-trees are passed, and then 
the mulberry and the walnut reach 
their limit, about the post-station of 
Bolladore (z,838'). This is divided by 
the Adda from 

Sondalo, the chief place in the Upper 
Val Tellina. The population here are 
thought to be the finest in the valley* 
The road continues along the 1. bank, 
passing opposite a picturesque church 
of St. Agnese,and a ruined castle, rising 
above the contracted bed of the valley. 
This enlarges a little at Mondadizza , 
but soon narrows again, and the road 
turns due N. as it enters a defile that 
extends in that direction for several 
miles. The Rezzalesco torrent here 
issues from Val di llezzo to join the 
Adda. [Following that glen to NE., 
in the direction hitherto pursued by 
the main valley, the pedestrian may 
reach a pass that leads him to Sta. Ca¬ 
tarina (§ 37, Rte. B) ; or he may turn 
to the rt, and reach Vezza in Val 
Camonica by a track passing over the 
Sasso Maurone.~\ At Le Prese the road 
enters the finest part of the defile, cross¬ 
ing to the rt. bank of the Adda, and 
returning to the 1. bank at the Ponte 
del Diavolo, a fine bridge resting on 
two huge blocks. Labrador spar, and 
other fine minerals, have been found in 
this neighbourhood. The defile, whose 
central point is the so-called Devil’s 
Bridge, is called Serra di Mongnone, 
from a hamlet at its N. end. This 
has always been considered the natural 
limit between Val Tellina and the 
Valle di Sotto, or Val Ceppina, extend- 





ROUTE F.—VAL MASINO. 


405 


ing to Bormio, and forming part of the 
territory of that town. The defile was 
strongly fortified at various periods, 
and the remains of military works are 
seen at several points. The ascent is 
here rather rapid, and there is a very 
manifest change of climate as the road 
emerges into the upper valley. After 
passing opposite to the village of Cep- 
pina , the valley opens out, backed by a 
portion of the range of Monte Cristallo, 
and the traveller soon reaches 

Bonnio f Inns: Posta, very fair, much 
improved ; there are two or three others 
of lower grade, but most travellers go 
on to the Baths), 4.016 ft. above the 
sea. The town and Baths are described 
in § 37, Rte. A. 


Route F. 

MORBEGNO TO THE VAL BREGAGLIA, 
BY VAL MASINO—ASCENT OF MONTE 
DELLA DISGRAZIA. 

Having in the preceding Rtes. de¬ 
scribed the two great valleys that form 
the N. and S. boundaries of the Bernina 
Alps, it will now be convenient to no¬ 
tice the tributary valleys and passes by 
which they are connected together. 

The westernmost of these secondary 
valleys is the Val Masino, abounding 
in objects of interest to the lover of 
nature in her wilder aspects, yet very 
rarely visited by strangers. There is 
very fair accommodation at the Bagni 
del Masino, now accessible by carriage- 
road. Three passes, none of which 
can be called easy, connect the head of 
this valley with Val Bregaglia. 

1. To Castasegna, by the Forcella 
di Bockette. 5 hrs. to the Baths, 
7 hrs. (?) thence to Castasegna. — A 
char from Morbegno to the Baths 
may be had for 10 frs., but, except for 
the first 4 m., little time is saved by it. 
As mentioned in Rte. E, the opening 
of Val Masino is about 4 m. from 
Morbegno. A road partly new and 
practicable for light carriages, but not 
shown on any map, mounts through 


the valley, turning off from the high 
road to Sondrio immediately after this 
has crossed the bridge over the Masino 
torrent. At the lower end of Val 
Masino the torrent is forced aside from 
its southern course by a steep hill, 
called Colmine del Dazio, and flow's 
eastward round its base through a 
narrow defile. The road ascends the 
steep slope N. of the village of Masino 
by several zigzags, and then winds 
along the face of the mountain till it 
fairly enters the valley at a great height 
above the stream, near a hamlet called 
Pioda. In the low r er part of Val Ma¬ 
sino the rocks are apparently com¬ 
posed of metamorphic schists and sand¬ 
stones, which pass by insensible gra¬ 
dations into gneiss. Neither does it 
appear easy to fix a limit between the 
gneiss and the granitic rocks of the 
range dividing this valley from Val 
Bregaglia. The latter are very variable 
in appearance and composition, some¬ 
times much resembling the well- known 
Serizzo Ghiandone of the erratic blocks 
about the Lake of Como. As the 
traveller advances, the scenery increases 
in interest. On the opposite side of the 
valley a torrent descends through a 
lateral glen called Val di Spluga, not 
easily reached from the road, and 
leads up to the E. side of the peak of 
Monte Spluga (9,351')- This summit, 
which must command a very fine view, 
is easily (?) reached from this side. 
At Cattaeggio, where a torrent origi¬ 
nating on the SW. flanks of the Monte 
della Disgrazia, and flowing through a 
glen called Val di Sasso Bisolu , enters 
the valley, the road crosses to the rt. 
bank of the Masino, and continues to 
ascend through a scene of extraordinary 
wildness. It would appear that at 
various intervals enormous masses of 
rock have fallen from the face of the 
mountain on the W. side of the valley. 
Some of the more ancient are mossed 
over, and the people have contrived to 
grow small patches of potatoes in earth 
that has been carried up, and laid out 
on the top of some of these boulders. 
Among the more recent blocks, proba- 





406 


RH.ETIAN ALPS. § 36. BERNINA DISTRICT. 


bly fallen within the last two or three 
centuries, are some of the most pro¬ 
digious single masses that are to he 
found in the Alps. One of these, 
lying close to the road, hy far exceeds 
any with which the writer is acquainted. 
It is an irregular parallelopiped, mea¬ 
suring 250 ft. in length, 120 ft. in 
breadth, and 140ft. in height; so that, 
even deducting one-fourth for the ir¬ 
regularity of its form, it must contain 
more than 3 millions of cubic feet of 
stone. After passing these great blocks 
the road traverses a tract of flat marshy 
meadow, and in about 13 m. from Mor- 
begno reaches the fork of the valley. 
The most considerable branch of the 
torrent descends from ENE. through 
the Val di Mello, while the other, 
nearly exactly opposite, flows from the 
W. through the short and very beautiful 
glen called the Val de ’ Bagni. On the 
N. side of the junction is the poor 
village of San Martino. The road 
leaves it on the rt., crosses the western 
torrent, and ascends along its 1. bank. 
In about 2 m. farther the traveller 
reaches the 

Bagni del Masino, a small establish¬ 
ment, where some patients are found 
in the height of summer, very beauti 
fully situated, in the midst of pine and 
larch forests surmounted by granitic 
aiguilles, and close to several pictur¬ 
esque cascades. The accommodation 
is very fair, the charges reasonable, 
and the place deserves to be more 
generally known. The height is 
about 3,750 ft. above the sea, or nearly 
3,000 ft. above the village of Masino 
at the opening of the valley, so that 
the change of climate is very percepti¬ 
ble, and in hot weather highly agree¬ 
able. 

The man who was first recommended 
to the writer as a guide, is employed 
as guard over the woods near the Baths, 
and knows the paths, but is utterly in¬ 
competent for mountain-work. Salva¬ 
tore Fiorelli of San Martino, whose 
experience is probably gained as a 
smuggler, is a far better man, seems to 
know all the high passes well, and has 


an air of quiet determination that 
promises efficiency. In this unsophis¬ 
ticated valley these men are glad to' 
earn 5 francs a day as guides. 

Immediately above the Baths one 
branch of the torrent descends from 
WSW., while the main branch of the 
valley mounts due N., and is called Val 
Porcellizza. It is easy to ascend for 
some distance by a wood-cutter’s path 
on the rt. side of the torrent, and thus 
gain a view of the lower cascades ; but 
the regular way to the upper part of the 
Val Porcellizza is by the E. side, at 
some distance from the stream. The 
excursion is worth making, even for 
those who do not intend to cross either 
of the passes here mentioned. 

About If hr. must be allowed for 
ascending by a good path to the upper 
level of the valley, above a fine water¬ 
fall, where a considerable alp supports 
a large number of cattle. The princi¬ 
pal chalet, here, as in many parts of 
Lombardy, called baita, lies on the E. 
sile of the torrent—the Swiss Federal 
map being here incorrect as to minute 
details—at about 6,600 ft. above the 
sea, on a level with the superior limit 
of the larch. 

The head of Val Porcellizza is en¬ 
closed by several bold peaks standing 
in a semicircle in the following order, 
reckoning from W. to E.:— Pizza 
Porcellizzo ( 10,092'), Cima di Tschingel 
(10,853'), Punta Trubinesca (11,106'), 
and a nameless peak (10,820'). The 
Punra Trubinesca seems inaccessible 
from this side, and the Cima di Tschin¬ 
gel appears difficult; both summits 
have, however, been attained, the lat¬ 
ter by Mr. Coolidge in 186 L The 
only inoderattly easy summit is the 
Ptzzo Porcellizzo, which lias on the 
summit a stone man erected by the 
Swiss engineers, who made this a 
trigonometrical station, although it lies 
altogether in Italy. The view to the 
W. and S. is very fine, including a 
considerable part of the Lake of Como. 
That to the E., concealed from the 
writer hy a storm-cloud, is doubtless 
limited by the higher neighbouring 







ROUTE F.-PASSO DI ZOCCA. 


407 


peaks, but probably includes the Monte 
della Disgrazia. The other summits 
above mentioned lie on the boundary 
between Val Masino and Val Brega- 
glia, here forming the frontier between 
Switzerland and Italy, while the Por- 
cellizzo overlooks the head of Val 
Codera, one of the roughest and wildest 
glens in the Alps. The way from the 
Baths to Castasegna crosses the head 
of Val Codera. The ordinary way is 
over the ridge W. of the chalets of 
Porcellizza, and some way S. of the 
peak, about where indicated on the Swiss 
Federal map, but the track is scarcely 
(? if at all) visible. A steep descent 
into the head of Val Codera is followed 
by a no less steep ascent to the For- 
cella di Rocchette (about 9,000'), whence 
a very rapid descent leads down to 
Castasegna (Rte. A). The distance 
in a right line is less than 3 m., and 
the difference of level exceeds 6,500 ft. 

Instead of reaching Val Codera by 
Val Porcellizza, the traveller may take 
a track that mounts WSW. from the 
Baths of Masino to the Alpe di Ligon- 
cio. Thence the way lies rather N. of 
W. to the summit of the ridge dividing 
that alp from Val Codera, and then 
NW„ reaching the torrent of the latter 
valley nearly at the same point as by 
the course above described. The name 
Ligoncio, belonging to the mountain- 
pasture mentioned above, has been 
erroneously given on the Austrian 
maps to the highest point in the range 
N. of Val Porcellizzo. 

2. To Hondo, by the Passo di Hondo. 
—There is considerable doubt as to 
the true position of the pass which is 
spoken of in Val Masino as Passo di 
Bondo, connecting Val Masino with 
the tributary glen of Val Bregaglia, 
called Val Bondasca. The Bondasca 
Glacier, at the head of the latter glen, 
is an almost continuous ice-fall, en¬ 
closed by extremely bold granitic 
aiguilles. * If there be any pass, in 
the ordinary sense of the word, from 
Val Porcellizza to the Bondasca Gb¬ 
it lies not close to the Pnnta Trubi- 
nesca, as shown in th» Federal Map, 


but considerably farther E.’ [F. F. T.] 
In 1864 Messrs. Freshfield, Beachcroft, 
and Walker traversed a snow col— 
called by them Passo di Ferro (about 
10,000')—at the head of the Bondasca 
Gl., which led them to a short wild 
glen called Val di Ferro , about due N. of 
S. Martino. Following the stream, they 
reached the Val di Mello about £ hr. 
E. of that village. None but expe¬ 
rienced ice-men should attempt either 
of the above passes. 

3. To Vico Soprano, by the Passo di 
Zocca. This is a fine pass, quite easy 
in fine weather, but very laborious if 
made from Morhegno, as it involves an 
ascent of more than 8,000 ft. besides a 
long walk. It is a better plan to divide 
it into two days, making a slight detour 
to the Baths, and enjoying the fine 
scenery of that branch of the valley. 
Those who go from Morbegno must 
take food, and cannot always find milk 
at the chalets lying near the track. The 
name by which the pass seems to be 
universally known in the district is here 
retained in preference to that of For- 
cella di San Martino, set down in the 
Swiss Federal map. A guide should 
be taken, as in case of clouds coming on 
it would be impossible to find the way. 

From the village of San Martino, 
where the torrent from the Val de’ 
Bagni joins that from Val di Mello, an 
easy path is carried along the rt. bank 
of the latter stream. The Val di Mello 
is less picturesque than the other 
branch, but on a grander scale. On the 
N. side a torrent issues in a waterfall 
from a lateral ravine, and it is possible 
to ascend that way and so reach the 
Zocca Pass. But the course is difficult 
and would take more time, nor is it 
likely to be adopted except by a 
smuggler. The shortest way to the 
Zocca Pass does not lie by the 1. bank 
of the Zocca torrent ascending from 
Rasica, as shown in the Swiss Federal 
map. At a point about ^ hr below 
Rasica, and 2^ hrs. from the Baths of 
Masino, the ascent is commenced up a 
steep stony slope where deciduous trees 
are still mingled with pines. The 



408 


R! LET I AN ALPS. § 3 

bridge by which the track crossed the 
Zocca torrent was carried away in 
1863; and it was then necessary to 
climb some way up the rt. bank, and 
then descend to a second bridge. A 
steep ascent through pine woods, broken 
here and there by knolls of rock, leads 
to a chalet ( bait a ) which is occupied 
only for a short time as the herdsmen 
shift their quarters. Towards the 
upper part of the lateral glen leading to 
the pass it is necessary to bear to the 
1., and the last ascent is but little N. of 
W. The way is steep, but not at all 
difficult, and the view is both grand 
and interesting from its novelty. The 
Passo di Zocca , or Forcella di San 
Martino^ 8 , 957'), lies between the Monte 
di Zocca, (10,565') to SW., and the 
Cima de,l Largo (11,162') ENE. of the 
pass. On reaching the crest of the 
ridge the traveller finds himself unex¬ 
pectedly overlooking the head of a 
great glacier that stretches before him 
for several miles towards the N., be¬ 
tween two ranges of granitic peaks, 
several of which surpass 10,500 ft. 
The Albigna Glacier (Ital. Ghiacciajo 
dell’ Albigna) is remarkably easy to 
traverse. A very short descent takes 
the traveller on to the upper neve, and 
he soon reaches the ice, which inclines 
gently to the N., and is almost com¬ 
pletely free from crevasses. The gla¬ 
cier comes to an end on the level floor 
of the upland valley, a short way above 
the point where the rapid descent into 
Val Bregaglia abruptly begins. The 
glacier torrent commences its troubled 
career by springing boldly from the 
edge of the rocks in a fine cascade. 
The glacier should be left by its 1. 
bank, and on that side of the stream a 
tolerable path leads down to the lower 
valley. The scenery is throughout 
very beautiful, and the whole way from 
Morbegno to Vico Soprano will be long 
remembered as one of the most inter¬ 
esting of alpine expeditions. 

Ascent of Monte della Disgrazia 
(12,074'). In the first number of the 
‘ Alpine Journal,’ Mr. E S. Kennedy has 
given an account of the ascent of Monte 


G. BERNINA DISTRICT. 

della Disgrazia by himself and Mr. 
Leslie Stephen, with Melchior An- 
deregg and an English servant named 
Cox. A first attempt from the side of 
Val Malenco having been unsuccessful, 
they went a few days later to the 
Baths of Masino, and, starting from 
thence before midnight, reached the 
summit in about 12 hrs., returning to 
San Martino in 5f hrs. They appear 
to have passed by the Alpe di Pioda, 
on the W. side of the mountain, and to 
have attained the highest crest connect¬ 
ing the two principal peaks in part, at 
least, by the ridge which divides the 
head of Val di Mello from that of the 
Val di Sasso Hisolo. Mr. Tuckett 
reached the highest peak in 1867 from 
the head of the latter valley, a prefer¬ 
able route. 

A pass over the ridge SW. of Monte 
della Disgrazia, by which Sondrio is 
reached from the head of Val di Mello 
in much less time than by Val Masino, 
has been pointed out to the Editor. 
This leads to the head of the Val di 
Sasso Bisolo, and involves a second 
pass on the opposite side of that val¬ 
ley, either by the E. or the W. side of 
the Como Bruciato (9,7 11'). 

Two new passes have recently been 
effected over the ridges at the head of 
Val di Mello. The first has been called 
‘ Disgrazia Jocli ’ by Mr. Tuckett, who 
first traversed it in 1865, with Messrs. 
H. Buxton and Freshfield. The writer 
regrets that he cannot adopt a German 
designation for a pass lying in Italian 
territory, and provisionally calls it 
Passo di Mello (about 9,500). It lies 
over one of the deepest depressions in 
the range connecting Monte Disgrazia 
with Monte Sissone. The way is by 
the rt. bank of a small glacier which 
comes to an end nearly 1 hr. above the 
highest malga in Val di Mello. The 
descent is for | hr. over steep rocks, 
then by the much crevassed Disgrazia 
Glacier, which is left about 1 hr. from 
Chiareggio (Rte. G). The other new 
pass leads to the head of the Forno 
Glacier . the longest ice-stream in this 
part of the range which sends its tor- 




ROUTE G. 


MURETTO PASS. 


409 


rent—the Ordlegna —to sweli the Mera 
close to the top of the Maloya Pass. To 
reach it from Val di Mello, it seems 
necessary to cross the range close to 
the summit of Monte Sissone (10,800'), 
the corner-stone between the main 
range and the great ridge of Monte 
della Disgrazia. It is best reached by 
a couloir W. of the summit, which 
commands a magnificent view. 

Route G. 

CASACCIA TO SONDRIO, BY THE MU¬ 
RETTO PASS. 

8 hrs.’ walking to Chiesa. 3 hrs. by road thence 

to Sondrio. 

This is the easiest pass from the Yal 
Bregaglia to Val Tellina,but is scarcely 
so interesting as those described in the 
last Rte. 

‘ The diligence-road over the Maloya 
is followed from Casaccia to wnthin 
about ^ hr, of the summit of that pass. 
A footway then turns oif to the rt., 
leading past the chalets of Lampalii, 
where there is a mountain still famous, 
it is said, for its schnups. The path 
continues on the rt. bank of the Ord¬ 
legna, near the stream. Traces are 
seen at intervals of an ancient paved 
road, for the most part destroyed, or 
buried by debris. The pass is still 
said to be practicable for mules, though 
not often traversed. A higher track 
on the talus of the Piz Margna is very 
rough, and causes a loss of time. In 
about 2 hrs. from Casaccia, the chalets 
of Piancaning (6,519') are passed oppo¬ 
site the foot of the Forno Glacier. 
From this point the ascent becomes 
steeper, continuing in a SE. direction. 
In about another \ hr. the first snow 
is reached, the permanent remains of 
avalanches from the steep mountains 
on both sides. Near the summit a 
small glacier descends from the Monte 
dOro (10,545') on the rt., and the tra¬ 
veller should keep well to the 1. to 
avoid its crevasses. The route then 
lies to the 1. of a slight elevation which 
rises in the centre of the pass and 
about 200 ft. above it, and the summit 


is reached in about 3^ hrs. Its height 
by Dufour’s map is 8,616 ft. The view 
is much shut in, and not very striking ; 
and is better on either side at some 
distance down than at the summit. 
In descending to the SE., some con¬ 
siderable patches of snow are first 
crossed; then keeping the 1. bank of 
the stream, the path soon becomes dis¬ 
tinctly marked, and fine views of the 
Monte della Disgrazia open in front. 
After about 2 hrs.’ steep descent, the 
valley tends to the E„ the descent 
becomes more gradual, and about ^ hr. 
fhrther passes the ruinous chalets of 
Chiareyyio, where stood formerly, and 
not long ago, a custom-house. The 
path continues on the 1. bank of the 
Malero, about 1 hr. farther to Prati 
della Casta, where there is a steep 
descent, and then crosses to the rt. 
bank. A slate quarry is passed about 
f hr. farther, and in rather less than 
£ hr. the path falls into a new and 
w ell-made road, close to Chiesa (3,48U'), 
the principal village of Val Malenco.’ 
[R.C.N.] 

There are two Inns at Chiesa, neither 
of which can be called more than bear¬ 
able. In both of them extortionate 
demands have been made upon pass¬ 
ing travellers, and in some cases less 
than half the sum asked has been ac¬ 
cepted. The Osteria Antica was im¬ 
proved, and not dear, in 1865. By the 
new road Sondrio (Rte. E) is reached 
in 3 hrs.; but as the ascent is conti¬ 
nual, and the valley hot, 3^ hrs. should 
be allowed in going from Sondrio to 
Chiesa. 

Val Malenco is extremely rich in 
rare minerals, and doubtless awaits 
further exploration to reveal many 
objects of interest to the naturalist. 

Route IT. 

PONTRESINA TO CHIESA IN VAL MA¬ 
LENCO, BY THE CAPUTSCHIN AND 

SCERSCEN PASSES. 

In Rte. D w r as described a course by 
which an active mountaineer favoured 







<110 


RILETIAN ALPS. § 3G. BERNINA DISTRICT. 


by weather may make the tour of the 
higher peaks.of the Bernina in two 
days. The passes now to be noticed, 
combined with those described in 
the two following Rtes., enable a 
traveller to make a wider circuit in 3 
or 3|- days, including far more varied 
scenery, and one decidedly diffi¬ 
cult glacier pass. It appears certain 
that a pass from the head of the Fex 
Glacier to Yal Malenco by the Scer- 
scen Glacier has been known to the 
chamois-hunters of Sils by the name 
Capiitscha Pass, taken from a rock cal led 
Capiitscha on the S. side of the Fex 
Glacier, supposed to offer some resem¬ 
blance to the better known Capiitschin 
on the N. side of the same glacier. 
This pass is indicated on the Swiss 
Federal map; but the glaciers at the 
head of Val Malenco, on the S. side of 
the Bernina range, are not quite cor¬ 
rectly given in that map. 

Since the map was published, the 
guide Peter Jenni discovered a pass on 
the E. side of the Capiitschin, leading 
from the Roseg Gl. to the upper plateau 
of the Fex Glacier, and reached Chiesa 
by crossing the ridge to the Scerscen 
Glacier. The first travellers who ac¬ 
complished the new pass were Messrs. 
F. C. Grove and J. M. Wedgewood, in 
Sept. I860, followed, a few days later, 
by Mr. A. Milman and his brother. 
The last-named gentleman has given 
an account of the pass in the Second 
Series of 4 Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers.’ 
The excursion has been since made 
several times, but must be reckoned as 
decidedly difficult, requiring thoroughly 
efficient guides (one for each travel¬ 
ler) ; and in a not unfrequent condition 
of the rocks, with a crust of ice cover¬ 
ing their face, it can scarcely be ef¬ 
fected from the Italian side. The 
charge for guides according to the 
Pontresina tariff is 25 fr. for going to 
Chiesa, and 16 fr. for the return, if the 
guide be dismissed there, or 19 fr. if 
he be taken back to Pontresina by the 
Canciauo Pass (Rte. I). A porter 
engaged for the whole tour is entitled 
to 25 fr. Jenni and Fleuri, who are 


the most competent men for this pass, 
refuse to carry any luggage, however 
trifling, on this expedition. It is 
doubtless now known to other guides. 

The writer feels bound to adopt the 
name Caputschin Pass for that con¬ 
necting the Roseg and Fex Glaciers. 
It appears to be known by no other 
name at Pontresina, and the name 
Roseg Pass, used by Messrs. Wedge- 
wood and Milman, is open to the ob¬ 
jection that another pass (the Sella 
Pass) lies between that now in ques¬ 
tion and the Piz Roseg, while the pre¬ 
sent pass is close to the Capiitschin. 

Most, if not all of the travellers who 
have taken this Rte., have thought it 
judicious to sleep on the preceding 
night at the clean and comfortable 
chalets of Misauna. The course lies 
along the centre of the Roseg Glacier 
until the slope becomes steep and the 
crevasses difficult, when the ascent is 
continued for some distance by the 
rocks on the W. bank. On returning 
to the upper level of the glacier, some 
steep slopes of neve have to be sur¬ 
mounted, and from 4^ to 5^ hrs. suffice 
to reach the summit of the Caputschin 
Pass, lying immediately E. of that 
summit, and about 500 ft. lower, so 
that the height may be reckoned 
10,600 ft. 

The view is described, by all who 
have reached this point, as of the 
grandest character, the Monte della 
Disgrazia being especially remarkable 
from this side. The descent from the up¬ 
per ridge to the level of the Fex Glacier 
is the main difficulty of this route. The 
rocks are extremely steep and slippery, 
and have been frequently found coated 
with a thin covering of ice. Travellers 
are usually lowered with a rope about 
their waists, relying on the sure hold and 
steadiness of the guide, who gradually 
lets it out as they thus descend from 
one ledge to another. Towards the bot¬ 
tom the slope is less steep, but there are 
many loose stones that are set moving 
by the slightest touch. On reaching 
the Fex Glacier, it is necessary to turn 
to the 1. and ascend to a second col— 




ROUTE I.-CANCIANO PASS. 


411 


the Scerscen Pass —which, to judge from 
descriptions, and the map annexed to 
Mr. Milman's paper, lies between the 
summits of La Sella and Piz Tremog- 
gia. It is probably much higher than 
the pass SW. of the latter peak (Ca- 
piitscha Pass ?), marked on the Swiss 
Federal map—3,021 metres = 9,912 ft. 

As mentioned in Rte. D, the Scerscen 
and Fellaria Glaciers are of a very 
peculiar character, perhaps deserving 
the name of ice-lakes rather than ice- 
streams. The Scerscen consists of two 
parallel ice-fields sloping gently to¬ 
wards the E., each sustained on 
the S. side by a high terrace of rock. 
The short ice-stream that carries olf 
the overflow of these upper plateaux 
descends towards SW. to the neigh¬ 
bourhood of the Scerscen Alp. The 
torrent thence descends toSSE through 
a branch of the Val Lantern a, which 
runs parallel to the middle portion of 
Val Malenco. Between them is a ridge 
whose most prominent summit is called 
Monte Nero. The usual way from the 
Scerscen Glacier to Ohiesa is by this 
ridge, which lies considerably E. of 
the Scersc m Pass. The descent is long 
and rough, but nowhere difficult. Tra¬ 
vellers have taken from 12 to 14 hrs., 
inclusive of halts, to reach Chiesa from 
the Misauna Alp. 

In the first Jahrbuch of the Swiss 
Alpine Club, M. Weilenmann gives an 
interesting account of his ascent, with¬ 
out a guide, of Piz Tremoyyia (11,326') 
from the head of Val Fex. 


Route I. 

CHIESA TO POSC HI A VO, BY THE PASSO 
DI CANCIANO. 

9 hrs.’ walking to Poschiavo. hrs. to Le 
Prese. 

This is a very picturesque walk, 
passing through fine near scenery, and 
gaining several remarkable distant 
views. 

‘ Leaving Chiesa (3,480'), the path 
ascends in about \ hr. by the rt. hank 
of the Malero to the junction of the 


Lanterna, where the Malero is crossed 
and the way lies through the Val Lan¬ 
terna. keeping to the rt. bank, and pass¬ 
ing through the village of Lanzada and 
the long straggling hamlet of Vetto. 
Then begins a steeper ascent on the 
N. side of the valley, avoiding the pre¬ 
cipices which appear completely to 
close in its extremity. From Chiesa 
to the summit of these (5,400') is about 
2^- hrs. Hence there is a slight de¬ 
scent of ^ hr. to the chalets of Carol, 
where the path crosses by a natural 
bridge over the western of tlmee 
streams which unite at this point, de¬ 
scending from the glacier of Scerscen. 
From this point the path again ascends 
steeply to the little level plain of Campo 
Moro, about ly hr farther, passing 
through fine woods and under lofty 
precipices. Here a distant, but fine, 
view is obtained of the Monte della Dis- 
grazia. After crossing the Campo 
Moro, the ascent recommences on the 
rt. bank of the stream, but soon passes 
to the 1. bank, and continues to ascend, 
with the exception of a short descent 
opposite the Fellaria Glacier, where 
there are fine views of the Piz Ber¬ 
nina and neighbouring peaks. Here 
the little Val Poschiavina opens to the 
ESE., and the stream is recrossed 
about 5| hrs. from Chiesa. Notwith¬ 
standing its great elevation, the pas¬ 
tures of this upland valley are very 
productive, and a considerable group 
of chalets stands at its lower extre¬ 
mity (7,500'). From this point the 
ascent is comparatively slight. On ap¬ 
proaching the upper end of the valley, 
a fine glacier comes into view, descend¬ 
ing from the Pizza Scalino (10,925') 
and Pizza Canciano (10,194’). Here 
the path, which up to this point has 
been good and distinct, becomes ob¬ 
scure. It is necessary to keep near 
the rt. bank of the stream for nearly 
1 hr. from the chalets; then turning to 
the 1. (E.), the summit of the col is 
attained in about a | hr. more. Its 
height is 8,366 ft. The views on both 
sides are fine, but the best are those of 
the Bernina chain to the W. The 




412 


RILETIAN ALPS. 


§ SC). BERNINA DISTRICT. 


ridge runs N. and S. It may be passed 
somewhat higher, a little farther N. 
than the lowest point, and nearer to 
the Colmo delle Ruzze, thus avoiding 
a slight detour. After passing the col, 
the traveller should keep to the N. till 
close under the Colmo delle Ruzze, to 
avoid the precipices immediately be¬ 
neath him. The valley of Poschiavo ap¬ 
pears but a short distance off, though in 
reality 5,000 ft. lower down. The de¬ 
scent, for about one-third of the distance, 
is easy and agreeable, for the most part 
over grass. The path keeps for ^ hr. 
to the 1. of a stream which takes its 
rise from some little lakes just under 
the col, then bearing to the 1., along 
the rt. bank of another stream which 
bursts out suddenly from the moun¬ 
tain side. It then falls into rough 
mule and sledge tracks, that continue 
until the high road is joined about ten 
minutes below Poschiavo. The descent 
takes from 2 to 2^ hrs. The ascent in 
the opposite direction about 4 hrs. 
[R.C.M.] Alsine recurva, Papaver py- 
renaicum , and the very rare Carex 
hispidula, have been found near the 
summit of the Canciano Pass. 

Avery rough path leads to Le Prese, 
but it saves little time. See Rte. K. 

The Passo Rovano, mentioned in 
Rte. D, might enable an active moun¬ 
taineer to reach Chiesa in one day from 
Pontresina. The path above described 
is joined at the point where the Val 
Poschiavina turns eastward out of the 
Val del Campo Moro. The Pizzo di 
Verona (11,358') was climbed in 1865 
by Messrs. Tuckett, Freshfield, and 
Beachcroft, from the upper plateau of 
the Pa Hi Glacier. They descended by 
the Gambre Alp, through Val Campo 
Moro to Val Lanterna. A cairn of un¬ 
known origin was found at the top. In 
the next summer Mr. Tuckett ascended 
the Pizzo Scalino (10,925'), which com¬ 
mands the finest view of the Bernina 
group from the S. side. It may be taken 
in the way from Poschiavo to Chiesa, 
ascending from the Canciano Pass, and 
descending along the W. arete to the 
chalets of Prabello, or vice versa. 


Route K. 

SAMADEN TO TIRANO, BY THE BER¬ 
NINA PASS. 

The only carriage-road connecting 
the valley of the Inn with that of the 
Adda is that over the Bernina Pass. 
The descent on the Italian side by the 
ancient mule-track was found to offer 
such difficulties for the construction of 
a carriage-road, that a new line di¬ 
verging widely from the ancient course 
was selected. The original road was 
ill made and ill kept up, but it has been 
much improved of late years, and is 
now daiiy traversed by diligence in 
summer ; the distance from Samaden to 
Tirano being accomplished in 7^ hrs. 

L By the Carriage-road. 


Pontresina . 

Swiss 

leagues 

l£ 

Eng. 

miles 

3f 

Bernina Inn 

. . 2 

6 

Poschiavo . 

5 

1ft 

Le Prese . 

1 

3 

Brusio 

. . )i 

3f 

Tirano 

1* 



12 

36 


The road from Samaden to Pontresina 
is noticed in Rte. B. The high road 
to Val Tellina mounts from Pontresina 
by the rt. bank of the Flatzbach. On 
approaching the foot of the Morteratsch 
Glacier, where that torrent makes a 
fine waterfall, the new line of road 
mounts by zigzags to the 1., command¬ 
ing a much finer view of the glacier 
and the surrounding peaks than was 
gained by the old road. In f hr. 
farther the traveller reaches the Ber¬ 
nina Inn (6,723'), offering accommoda¬ 
tion and food much better than its 
appearance promises. The host speaks 
English perfectly. Half a mile above 
this the Val del Fain opens to the 1. 
The botanist wishing to explore it 
thoroughly, should fix his quarters at 
the Bernina Inn. A little farther, 
another shorter glen —Val Minor — 
opens to the E., and on its S. side the 
Piz Lagalp (9,718'), easily climbed in 
2 hrs. from the road, offers a very fine 
view of the Bernina Alps. Just oppo¬ 
site to the Val Minor the torrent from 






ROUTE K.—BERNINA PASS. 


413 


the Diavolezza Lakes (Rte. B) crosses 
the road. A slight ascent now leads 
to the Lago Nero (7,284'). This small 
dark pool lies on the watershed between 
the Black Sea and the Adriatic ; for 
while it sends its torrent to the Inn, it 
is separated only by a mound or dam 
of incoherent materials (moraine?) 
from the much larger Lugo Bianco 
(7,316'), which feeds the Adda through 
the Poschiavino torrent. The white co¬ 
lour of the water, whence the latter takes 
its name, is given by the stream issuing 
from the Cambrena Glacier. The dam is 
in one place but 3 ft. above the ordinary 
level of the Lago Bianco; and when this 
is flooded by the rapid melting of the 
snows, the waters overflow the dam. 
and go to swell those of the Lago 
Nero. » 

The ground on the S. side of the 
Lago Bianco falls away so rapidly 
towards the valley of t oschiavo, that 
in constructing the carriage-road it was 
found expedient to carry it over higher 
ground to the E., in order to reach 
another branch of the Poschiavino 
which descends by a less steep de¬ 
clivity to the lower level of the valley. 
For this purpose the road bears east¬ 
ward from the N. end of the Lago 
Nero, and gradually ascends a low 
ridge NK. of the Lago Bianco, whereon 
s ands the Hospice, now converted 
into a very fair Inn, close to th@ 

Bernina Pass (7,6(58'). Near at hand 
is a small iake, called Lago della Cro- 
cetta, one of the highest in the Alps that 
is inhabited by lish. Near its shores 
grow many rare plants, e.g., Lychnis 
aipiria, Potentiila frigida, Hieracium gla¬ 
ciate, Koc/eria hirsuta , and Arena suh- 
spicata. According to Leonhardi there 
were visible in this lake, at the close 
of the last century, the stumps of trees 
projecting above the water. Whether 
these may have been the remains of a 
forest that has disappeared, owing to 
a slight change of climate, or piles 
(Pfahlhauten ) on which ancient lacus¬ 
trine habitations had been erected, is 
a matter for curious enquiry. After 
passing the summit-level, reached in 


lA hr. from the Bernina Inn, the road 
! is carried through a tunnel, and an 
artificial gallery intended to protect it 
against avalanches. There are here 
the remains of a silver mine, formerly 
worked in hornblende slate. Recent 
attempts to discover valuable ores have 
been unsuccessful. '1 he very well-en¬ 
gineered road descends into a swampy 
upland glen, called Val Agone, con¬ 
nected at its upper end with Val Li vigno 
by a low pass (Forcola), 7,638 ft. in 
height, by which a road might easily 
be carried to Zernetz. There was for¬ 
merly an Inn at La Motta (6,509'), the 
first hamlet on the S. side of the pass, 
but it has been closed There is now 
a rough inn, convenient for some ex¬ 
cursions, at La llosa, lower by 400 ft. 
Following the stream from Val Agone, 
the road is now separated from the old 
mule track by a high ridge, whose 
chief summit is Rizzo Campucc.o 
(8,5-44'), sometimes ascended for the 
sake of the view. To the 1. is seen the 
opening of Val di Campo (Rte. 1.), as 
tiie road descends in long zigzags which 
may be cut off by the pedestrian. A 
few houses, with the name Le Rovine, 
mark the site of a village destroyed by 
a berg fall in 1486. The first village, 
Pisciadella, stands near the torrent from 
Val di Campo. Corn-fields are seen 
here at the unusual height of 5,000 ft. 
After passing the torrent from Val di 
Teo, and some minor streams from 
other short lateral glens, the road 
reaches San Carlo (3,”40'), where the 
Poschiavino torrent is formed by the 
junction of the stream that has accom¬ 
panied the road, with the Cavagliasco 
descending from the I.ago Bianco. 
Little more than 1 m. farther is 

Poschiavo (Inns: Albergo Abrici, 
good, obliging landlord ; Alb. Sama- 
deni; Bernina, smaller), a village of 
moderate population, but having the 
air of a town, from the number of 
handsome houses and neighbouring 
villas. It is beautifully situated, at 
3,317 ft. above the sea, and is the chief 
place in the Swiss valley of the same 
name which extends nearly to the 








414 


RILETIAN ALrS. § 36. BERNINA DISTRICT. 


junction of the Poschiavino with the 
Adda. The most interesting excursion 
for the mountaineer is the ascent of the 
Pizzo Sassalbo (9,377'), a sharp, pro¬ 
minent peak, rising immediately E. of 
Poschiavo. Those who wish to reach 
the summit early may find quarters at 
the Alp of Sassiglione. The way is 
by the Passo di Sassiglione (Rte. E), 
on the S. side of the summit, and pre¬ 
sents no difficulty to the mountaineer. 
A wider panorama, but perhaps not a 
more beautiful view, would doubtless 
hs gained from the Pizzo di Sena 
(10,099'), the highest summit in the 
range E. of Poschiavo. The writer is 
not aware that this has yet been at¬ 
tained. The road from Poschiavo to 
Tirano has been much out of repair, 
but recent improvements have been 
made. About .‘t m. of nearly level road 
lead to Le Prese , on the banks of the 
Laoo di Poschiavo. A sulphureous 
spring discovered a few years ago, led 
to the construction of a handsome and 
comfortable house, with marble baths 
and a pretty garden. Pension, with 
wine, is 6 fr. per day. This place has 
many inducements for those who prefer 
a mild and rather soft climate to the 
more stimulating but colder air of the 
Engadine. The lake is 3,215 ft. above 
the sea, and the mean temperature in 
fine summer weather 68°—70° Fahr. 
The Baths are within reach of many 
mountain excursions, and the view to 
the N. includes the Piz Cambrena 
(1 1,835') and many minor peaks. The 
lake, about 2 m. long, produces excel¬ 
lent trout, and gives visitors the amuse¬ 
ment of boating. Arabis Halleri, 
Peucedanum rablense, and some other 
interesting plants, are found here. 

The high road is carried along the 
W. side of the lake, but soon after 
passing Meschino at its S. end, passes 
to the 1. bank of the Poschiavino. On 
a high rock, to the NW. is the pilgrim¬ 
age church of St. Romerio (5,906'), 
worth a visit from Le Prese. Below 
the bridge the Poschiavino enters a 
narrow rocky defile, through which it 
rushes in a succession of rapids and 


cascades towards its junction with the 
Adda. At Brasio (Inn : Post, fairly 
good and reasonable) the Protestant 
pastor is M. Leonhardi, whose little 
German works, containing descriptive 
and historical sketches of the Val Tel- 
lina, the Lake of Como, and the valley 
of Poschiavo, may interest the traveller. 
Tobacco is cultivated here, and smug¬ 
gled on a large scale into Italy and 
Tyrol. There are several pretty water¬ 
falls in this part of the valley, of which 
that of Sajento is seen on the rt. of the 
road. 

The scenery of the lower part of the 
valley is very rich and beautiful, as 
the road, descending rather rapidly, 
passes Campaccio, and readies the 
Swiss custom-house station at Campo- 
cologno (1,759'). The frontier lies a 
little farther S., at Plattamala, wffiere 
the remains of an ancient fort attest 
the strategic importance of the position. 
It is true that no danger need be ap¬ 
prehended from their Swiss neighbours, 
but it is clear that here, as in too manv 
other places, the Italians have allowed 
one of the keys of Italy to fall into the 
hands of the stranger. Travellers 
usually prefer to halt at La Madonna 
(Rle. E), but those who would pursue 
their journey towards Bormio will go 
into the town of Tirano, described in 
Rte. E. 

2. By Cavaglia. —There is no doubt 
thatthemostinterestingwav fora pedes¬ 
trian going from Pontresina to Poschi¬ 
avo is by the old mule-track, passing by 
Cavaglia. The path turns aside from the 
high road at the N. end of the I.ago 
Nero, and keeps to the W. side of that as 
well as the Lago Bianco, which latter 
is fully a mile long. The torrent fall¬ 
ing from the Cambrena Glacier has no 
bridge, and during the warm hours of 
the day is somew-hat difficult and dis¬ 
agreeable to cross. The pedestrian 
may make a slight detour, and avoid 
the difficulty by passing over the 
glacier. A very large bloc, perche, a 
few feet above the lake, will attract 
the attention of the glacialist. A 
little below r the Lago Bianco the tra- 




ROUTE L. 


VAL VIOLA. 


415 


veller passes another smaller lake, 
named Lago della Scala, so called from 
the very steep stair-like track that was 
once carried down the gorge below the 
lake. This course, in which fatal 
accidents from avalanches were of fre¬ 
quent occurrence, has been very long 
abandoned, and there are scarcely any 
remaining traces of the ancient path¬ 
way. The first improvement upon it 
was to carry a path farther W. by the 
Griirn Alp, where larches and pines 
begin to show themselves at about 
6,700ft., andnearthe Palu Alp (6,382'), 
the latter close to the foot of the beau¬ 
tiful Paid Glacier. It is worth while 
to make a slight detour by the foot of 
the glacier, but the ordinary path leaves 
the chalets a little to the rt., and de- 
sends through charming scenery, amid 
rocks and pines, to the Alp of Cavaglia 
(5,581'), a green plateau surrounded 
by wood, and overhung by the Corni- 
cella, a lower peak of the Pizzo di 
Verona. The scenery is, if possible, 
even more beautiful throughout the 


descent from Cavaglia. 


The Cavagli- 


asco torrent which now unites the 
streams from the Lago Bianco and the 
Vedretta di Palu is followed through a 
romantic gorge as far as a bridge— 
Puntalta—where it has worn for itself 
a deep channel in the granite rocks, till 
it suddenly makes a terrific plunge and 
is lost to sight. The lower part of the 
gorge is impassable, and the path leaves 
it to the 1. and descends along the slope 
of the mountain by Codera and Privi- 
liasco to Poschiavo. The walk from 
Pontresina to Poschiavo will be ac 
complished in about 6^ hrs , exclusive 
of halts, or even less by an active 
walker, but the way is throughout so 
beautiful that it is a pity to hurry over 
the ground. 

It is possible to join the Cavaglia 
track from the Hospice on the summit 
of the Bernina by crossing a range of 
large stepping-stones over the shallows 
between the Lago Bianco and the L. 
della Scala. 


Route L. 

PONTRESINA TO BORMtO. 

The course from Pontresina to 
Bormio by the road of the Berniha, 
descending to Tirano, and then re¬ 
mounting along the stream of the 
Adda, is very circuitous. Those who 
wish to save time, or to vary the route, 
may select one or other of the passes 
here indicated. The first is the shortest, 
and by it an active pedestrian may 
reach Bormio in one long day’s walk ; 
or he may save labour by taking a 
char as far as La Rosa. 

1. By Val Viola. In descending 
from the Bernina Pass to Poschiavo 
by the high road, the traveller leaves 
on his 1. hand a lateral valley whose 
torrent is crossed by the road a short 
way above Pisciadello. This is the 
Val di Campo, which extends ENE. to 
a pass called Passodi Val Viola. On the 
opposite side the Val Viola descends in 
the same direction for 8 or 9 m.,so that 
the pass, with the valleys on either side, 
marks a line of depression parallel to 
the main chain, enclosed between ridges 
whose height often exceeds 10.000 ft. 
The traveller descending by the road 
from the Bernina Pass should not fol¬ 
low this to the level of the torrent from 
Val di Campo, but may enter that 
valley much higher up by leaving the 
road at La Rosa, where the innkeeper 
will point out a path leading from the 
back of his house. In about 1^- hr. 
from La Rosa the traveller crosses a 
stream descending into Val di Campo 
from the NNW. This issues from a 
glen called Val Mera , at the head of 
which a high pass (8,776') leads into 
Val Livigno, passing on the W. side of 
the Como di Campo. with three sum¬ 
mits measuring in order from SW. to 
NE., 10,610, 10,843, and 10,814 ft., of 
which the highest was attained in 1866 
by Messrs. H. Thomas, Lewin, and 
Finney, with Jeuni and Fleuri as 
guides. 






413 


RIDETIAN ALPS. § 36. BERNINA DISTRICT. 


Above the junction of Val Mera the 
main branch of Val di Campo is often 
called Val Viola Poschiavina, to dis¬ 
tinguish it from the Val Viola Bor- 
inina, through which lies the descent 
to Bormio. The scenery is throughout 
extremely fine, but the path is, or was, 
very rough, and in some places hard to 
trace amidst fallen rocks and trunks 
of pine-trees. The Cornu di Dosde 
(10,597') rises grandly, in an almost 
unbroken precipice, fully 2,600 ft. 
above the ridge which closes the head 
of the valley. To the rt., in a deep 
basin, surrounded by rocks and pines, 
is the beautiful little lake of Saoseo 
(7.037'), which must be drained by a 
subterranean outlet, as it is enclosed 
by a barrier of rock. On approaching 
the head of the valley, it appeared to 
the writer that there is no difficulty, 
except the roughness of the ground, 
to prevent a traveller from keeping 
straight on close under the grand peak 
of Dosde; but the regular course is that 
indicated on the Swiss Federal map, 
following a streamlet due N. fora short 
way. and then turning E. to the Passo 
di Val Viola (about 7,900'). Near the 
summit the writer found the carcase 
of a cow recently killed, and partly 
devoured by a bear. The Val Viola , 
through which lies the descent to 
Bormio, is a long and rather an in¬ 
teresting valley, bare of trees, and de¬ 
faced on the NW. side by slopes of 
debris. After descending for nearly 1 
hr., the traveller stands opposite the 
opening of the Val di Dosde. [This 
fine glen is enclosed between some of 
the highest summits of the secondary 
range dividing Val Viola from Val 
Tellina. On the E. side is the Pizzo 
di Dosde ascended in 1866 by Messrs. 
Freshfield and Walker. On the op¬ 
posite side is the Como di Dosde, as¬ 
cended a few days later by Messrs. 
Thomas, Lewin and Finney, from the 
head of Val di Campo. But it may be 
as easily reached from the Dosd& side, 
as they descended SW. from the sum¬ 
mit to a point in the ridge (marked by 
a stone man) that forms a fine pass 


between Val di Campo and Val di 
Dosde. The last-named travellers also 
attained the second peak of the Como 
di Lago Spalmo, seemingly the highest 
of this group. On its N. slopes an ex¬ 
tensive glacier— Vedretta di Dosde — 
closes the S. end of the glen.] Nearly 
1 hr. below the opening of Val di 
Dosde another lateral valley, ‘ called 
Val di Verna , opens on the S. side of 
Val Viola. At its head is a pass (see 
Rte. F) leading through Val Grosina to 
Grosotto in Val Tellina. 

In descending the Val Viola to Bor¬ 
mio, on reaching the second chalets the 
traveller should choose the path to the 
rt., somewhat downhill, and in nearly 
3 hrs. from the pass will join the track 
descending due E. from the Foscagno 
Pass (Rte. M) at the hamlet of Semogo. 
Below the junction of the streams the 
valley, which now bends to the E., is 
called Val di Dentro, or Val Pedenosso. 
Its chief village is Tsolaccia, on the 1. 
bank of the torrent, scarcely ^ hr. 
below Semogo. A char-road is carried 
thence, first by the rt., then by the 1. 
bank of the torrent, to Premadio , stand¬ 
ing at the junction of Val di Dentro 
with the valley of Bormio. To reach 
that town, the traveller bears to the rt. 
down the valley; but if he seeks the 
better accommodation of the Baths (§ 
37, Rte. A), he will see the building 
before him on the slope above the 
opposite bank of the Adda. This route 
involves a long day’s walk. The distance 
from Pontresina to La Rosa is counted 
5 hrs.; but a pedestrian may do it in 
4^ hrs. From that place to the Val 
Viola Pass is fully 2^ hrs., and 4^ hrs. 
must be allowed for the descent, to 
Bormio. Travelling in the opposite 
direction, a horse might be taken from 
Bormio as far as the head of Val Viola. 

2. By Val Livigno. A traveller who 
has reached St. Antonio in Val Livigno 
from Bormio, by either of the passes 
mentioned in the next Rte., by keeping 
to the main branch of that valley may 
join the Bernina road, and so proceed 
to Pontresina by either of two easy 
1 passes. Beyond the last chalets of 




417 


ROUTE M.- 

^ al Livigno, a track ascends somewhat 
S. (>f E. along the torrent which is the 
principal source of the Spol. At the 
point where the valley bends to the S.. 
a rather rough ascent towards the E. 
leads to the Pisso della Stretta (8,143'), 
at the E end of Val del Fain, through 
which there is a well-marked track to 
fhe Bernina road, entering it about 2 hrs. 
from Pontresina, and a little above the 
Bernina Inn (Rte. K). 

Bv keeping along the track to the 
extreme head of Val Livigno, the tra¬ 
veller would reach the Forcola (7,638'), 
a pass mentioned in Rte. K. The track 
on the S. side from the Forcola would 
lead the traveller to Poschiavo through 
Val Agone; but a slight ascent to the 
SW. will take him on to a broken, 
irregular plateau, whereon lie several 
small tarns, whence he may descend to 
the Bernina road either by the N. or S. 
side of the Piz Lag. Ip. By the latter 
way he will soonest join the road on 
the N. side of the Lago Bianco. 


Route M. 

BORMIO TO THE ENGADINE, BY VAL 
LIVIGNO. 

In Rte A, reference was made to the 
jonsiderable stream of the Spol, which 
oins the Inn near Zernetz. This 
stream is made up by the union of tor- 
•ents issuing from a number of tribu- 
;ary valleys, the most considerable of 
vhich is Val Livigno. This origi- 
lates at the Forcola Pass, a short dis- 
ance N. from the summit of the Ber- 
nna Pass, and follows a tolerably 
lirect course to NNE. as far as the 
unction of the Val del Gallo, receiving 
>n the way a torrent issuing from Val 
; ederia on the 1., and Val di Trepalle 

PART II. K 


:al livigno. 

on the rt. Between the junction of 
V al del Gallo and Zernetz, the Spol 
pursues for many miles a sinuous 
course through an extremely wild de¬ 
file, one of the most savage and im¬ 
practicable in the Alps. While the 
access from Val Livigno to Zernetz 
thus becomes difficult and circuitous, 
the passes that connect it with the En- 
gadine are higher and more difficult 
than those that lead to the valley of 
the Adda. It is doubtless owing to 
these peculiar geographical conditions 
that, by a solitary exception, the fron¬ 
tier of Italy here trespasses across 
the watershed, and annexes to the 
peninsula valleys whose waters flow 
towards the Black Sea. Everywhere 
else, in following the boundary between 
Italy and her neighbours, we find that 
it is they who encroach upon the 
limits that nature has set between 
them. 

J he easiest and most direct way 
from Bormio to Val Livigno is by the 
Val di Dentro. A track passable for 
country carts leads by Isolaccia and 
Semogo (Rte. L) into the E. branch of 
the Val di Dentro, terminating in the 
Foscagno Pass (6,329'), probably the 
lowest, as it is certainly the most 
direct, between the Adda and the 
Inn. If general convenience and com¬ 
mercial advantages, and not political 
and strategic considerations, ha 1 di¬ 
rected the Austrian Government in the 
construction of a line of road between 
Innsbruck and Lombardy, this or the 
adjoining Val Fraele (§ 37, Rte. H) 
would have been selected. Some small 
pools lie at the summit of the Fos- 
cagno Pass ; passing these, the char- 
road descends gently to the village of 
Trepalle, in the Literal valley of the 
same name, 3j hrs. from Bormio. The 
traveller preceding to Livigno does 
not descend the Val de Trepalle to its 
junction with the Spol, but follows 
the track over a low hill lying in the 
fork between the valleys, taking 1 hr. 
to ascend, | hr. to descend into Val 
Livigno, and gaining an agreeable 
view. 

K 





418 


ETLETIAN ALPS. 


§ 36 . 

Val Livigno is a sequestered and 
purely pastoral district, there being 
no tillage except a few patches of rye 
at the opening of Val Federia. The 
inhabitants, who have little intercourse 
with the outer world, have preserved 
their native habits and costume. There 
is, properly speaking, no village, but 
many houses are scattered at intervals 
through the valley, especially near to 
the churches. Following the above- 
mentioned track from Trepalle, the 
valley is entered near Sant’ Antonio 
(6,145'), about 5 hrs. from Bormio. 
The only Inn in the valley lies some¬ 
what to the 1. It offers tolerable beds, 
but poor and scanty fare. The tra¬ 
veller bound for the Upper Engadine 
must bear a little to the rt., in order 
to enter Val Federia, whose torrent 
joins the Spbl about 1 m. below St, 
Antonio. The main branch of Val 
Livigno stretches SSW., with a gentle 
upward inclination towards the two 
passes mentioned in the last Rte. 

Three courses are open to the tra¬ 
veller who would enter the Engadine 
from Livigno; the first and second 
lead to the Upper Engadine, the third 
to Zernetz. 

1 . To Scanfs by the Casana Pass. 
After entering Val Federia , the path 
along the torrent is followed for about 
1 hr., and then a track mounting the 
ridge to the NW. by which, in if 
hr. more, or three hrs. from St. An¬ 
tonio, the traveller attains the summit 
of the Casana Pass (8,832'). It lies 
nearly due S. of Piz Casana ( 10,079'). 
A rather steep descent leads into Val 
Casana, and in 1 hr. from the top he 
reaches the chalets of the same name 
(7,310'), where milk, and sometimes 
bread, may be found. The track then 
lies by the rt. bank of the torrent, till 
this is crossed \ hr. lower down. The 
path again crosses and recrosses the 
stream; but on approaching the junc¬ 
tion of Val Trupchum, a wild glen 
whose head is enclosed by rugged 
peaks exceeding in height 10,000 ft., 
it keeps to the 1. along the slope of the 
mountain, and finally bears about due 


BERNINA DISTRICT. 

W. as it descends to Scanfs (Rte. A), 
reached in 2f hrs. from the pass, or 5f 
from St. Antonio. Travelling in the 
j opposite direction, 6 hrs. are required 
to reach Livigno. Less than f hr. be¬ 
yond Scanfs is the better inn at Zutz. 

2. To Ponte by the Lavirum Pass. It 
is a long day’s walk to reach Scanfs 
from Bormio by the Casana Pass. The 
Lavirum Pass (9,249'), though higher, 
is easy, and Ponte is reached as soon 
as Scanfs. The pass is seen straight 
ahead from the lower part of Val Fe¬ 
deria. Though the track is often lost, 
the way is easily found in clear weather. 
A deep gully is crossed before reaching 
the summit, a broad dreary plain nearly 
1 m. across. The descent lies due 
W. through Val Lavirum , which joins 
the picturesque Val Chiamuera about 
If hr. above Ponte. 

3. To Zemeiz. The principal church 
of Val Livigno stands near the junc¬ 
tion of the torrent from Val di '1 re- 
palle with the Spbl, about 2 m. from 
St. Antonio. Below the junction, the 
Spol enters a wild and uninhabited 
gorge, which extends with little inter¬ 
ruption to Zernetz, being probably the 
longest unbroken defile in the Alps. 
For nearly 2 hrs. the path is carried 
near the stream, crossing and recross¬ 
ing it twice, till it reaches the junction 
of the torrent issuing from Val del 
Gallo. This forms the limit between the 
upper, or Italian portion of the valley of 
the Spbl, and the lower part, belonging 
to Switzerland. For about ^ hr. farther 
the path keeps to the rt. bank of the 
stream, but farther progress then be¬ 
comes impossible, and in order to reach 
Zernetz a long detour is necessary. 
The path mounts to the rt. across the 
ridge dividing the Ofen torrent from 
the Spbl, and bears NE. to the Ofen 
Wirthshaus, on the road from Munster 
to Zernetz (§ 37, Rte. I). 6f hrs., 
exclusive of halts, are required to 
reach Zernetz from the Inn at St. 
Antonio. 





























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Map of the 

ORTELER DISTRICT.iJCTfc ^ 


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419 


§ 37 . ORTELER DISTRICT. 


SECTION 37 . 

ORTELER DISTRICT. 

While the range of the Bernina Alps 
appears to dwindle to comparatively 
small dimensions as we trace it to the 
NE., and it is difficult to fix its limits 
in that direction, another group of high 
Alps rises between the head waters of 
the Adda and the valley of the Adige. 
This includes several projecting ridges 
or promontories, one of which, lying 
on the N. side, is crowned by the Or- 
teler Spitze, the highest of the entire 
group. 

Until very recently the orography 
of this group was very ill understood, 
and in the first edition of this work 
the writer was forced to rely upon 
rather vague conjecture in default of 
accurate knowledge. A paper by Mr. 
F. F. Tuckett in the Ilth No. of the 
Alpine Guide, giving the results of an 
expedition made by him in 1804 with 
Messrs. E. and H. Buxton, with Chris¬ 
tian Michel and Franz Biener as guides, 
first threw abundant light upon most 
of the questions previously involved in 
doubt. This was followed by several 
papers in the third annual volume of 
the Austrian Alpine Club, the most 
important of which were contributed 
by Dr. E. Von Mojsisovics. More re¬ 
cently Lieut. Julius Payer, previously 
known as the chief explorer of the 
Adamello range, has nearly completed 
the exploration of this district by ex¬ 
peditions among the Trafoi Alps, de¬ 
scribed in ‘Petermann’s Mittheilungen,’ 
and by subsequent excursions in the 
range of the Pallon della Mare. 

The disposition of the mountain 
masses will be best understood by fix¬ 
ing attention in the first place on the 
Monte Cevedale (12,505'), improperly 
called on many maps Zufali Spitze, or 
Zefall Spitze. From this central point 
diverge in opposite directions, to the 
NE. and SW., two branches which 
orographic ally constitute a single 
range, tolerably uniform in geological 

e : 


structure, being formed of crystalline 
slates. The NE. portion of the range 
divides the Martellthal from the parallel 
valley of Ulten, and from the head of 
Val di Rabbi, the drainage on both 
sides being carried into the Adige, 
The SW. portion of the same range, 
on the contrary, separates the streams 
that fall into the Adda through 
Val Furva from those that feed the 
Adige through Val di Non. The chief 
summits in the NE. range, which 
from its highest peak may be called 
the Zufrid group, are the Venezia, or 
Konzen-Spitze (11,0 5'), the Hintere 
Rothspitz (10,344')—whence diverges 
the ridge dividing Val della Mare 
from Val di Rabbi—and the Zufridspitz 
(11,262'), whence another high range 
runs between Val di Rabbi and the 
Ultenthal. To the latter peak succeed 
a number of points that project but 
little from the general level till we 
reach the Hasenohr, or Flatschberg 
(10,673'). Beyond this extends the 
much lower range dividing Ulten from 
the Vintschgau, and terminating oppo¬ 
site Meran. 

On the SW. of Monte Cevedale, the 
main range describes a long curve 
convex to SE., enclosing the great 
neve-basin drained by the Vedretta di 
Forno. Adopting Lt. Payer’s nomen¬ 
clature, and indicating in brackets Mr. 
Tuckett’s names, the chief summits in 
this range, beginning at the NE. end, 
are —Pallon della Mare (12,038'_), (For. 
naccia, T.), Monte Vios (11,902'), Sa¬ 
line (1 1,772'), Pizzo Tuviela (1 1,472'), 
Punta Cadini (11,425'), Giumella 
(11,650'), and Punta di San Malito 
(11,920') (Palle della Mare, T.). A 
ridge extending WNW. of the last 
terminates in the beautiful double peak 
of the Tresero (11,636', and 11,601'). 
The snowy range terminates towards 
the SW. in the Como del Tre Signori 
(10,912'). In a geological sense, this 
range, parallel to the course of the 
Inn, and to the valleys of Martell and 
Ulten, about 25 m. in length from the 
Cornodei Tre Signori to the Hasenohr, 
and continued for 12 or 13 m. towards 
Meran, must be considered the main 
s 2 





420 


EILET1AN ALPS. 


§37 

range; but it is much surpassed in 
height by the irregular mass lying W. 
of Monte Cevedale, that includes all 
the best known mountains of this re¬ 
gion. Unlike the range first described, 
this consists in great part of secondary 
rocks, including soft friable slates, and 
highly crystalline dolomite, with some 
rocks referred to the verrucano. Al¬ 
though it throws out huge buttresses 
and promontories, the axis of this 
range keeps a tolerably uniform direc¬ 
tion nearly due W. from Monte Ceve¬ 
dale. The first summit, insignificant 
in other directions, but very prominent 
when seen from Sulden, is the Sulden 
Spitze (11,109'), W. of which rises the 
noble Konigs Spitze (12,646). This is 
known on the Italian side as Zebru, but 
the same name has been given to the 
next summit, which, to a void confusion, 
is now called Kleiner Zebru (12,251'). 
W. of this extends the range which has 
been collectively called the Cristallo 
Group. But the confusion arising 
from the vague use of the name Monte 
Cristallo, makes it expedient to reserve 
that designation for the single peak 
ascended in 1864 by Mr. Tuckett and 
his companions. A broad snow col 
separates the Kleiner Zebru from the 
Thurwieser Sp. (11.962'), to which suc¬ 
ceed the Trafoier Spitze and Ziegerpal- 
fen Sp., or Schnee Gloc/te, of Lt. Payer. 
The next prominent summit is the true 
Monte Cristallo (11.370') Its west¬ 
ern rival is the Monte Video (11,361'). 
From hence one ridge extends due W. 
between Val Furva and Val di Vitelli, 
while another, whose highest point is 
the Nagler Spitze (10,687'), runs 
WNW. towards the upper end of the 
Val di Braulio. 

Scarcely less important than the 
principal range are the ridges that 
branch out from it in various direc¬ 
tions. Separated from the Konigs 
Spitze by a broad plateau of neve, is 
the considerable range (formed of 
crystalline slates?) extending parallel 
to the Martellthal. Its chief summits 
are the Schbntauf Sp. (10,893'), the 
four summits of the Peder Spitzen, of 


. ORTELER DISTRICT. 

which the highest attains 11,349 ft., 
and theLaaserSp. (10,827'). A great 
offset, including the Vertrain Sp. 
(11,371'), the Ofen Wand (11,558'), 
and the Angelas Sp. (10.982'), encloses 
the head of the Laaserthal. On the 
S. side of the Konigs Sp. a much less 
considerable ridge curves round to the 
W. between the two main branches 
of Val Furva. Its highest summit, 
Monte Conjinale (11,076'), is destined 
to future celebrity as the Gorner Grat 
of this district. Most interesting to 
the mountaineer is the short ridge ex¬ 
tending N. from the Kleiner Zebru, 
and culminating in the Orteler Spitze 
(12,814'). This is a very bold pro¬ 
montory, connected with the vast snow- 
fields of the upper level of this group 
by a narrow crest covered with neve. 
Much less important is the short Ma- 
datsch ridge, projecting to the N on 
the W. side of the Madatsch Glacier. 
Its southern and highest point, the 
Madatsch Spitze, measures 11,244 ft. 

Besides the lofty ranges hitherto re¬ 
ferred to, it has appeared necessary to 
include in this section many outlying 
ridges. Thus to the N. it compre¬ 
hends the mountains lying in the angle 
formed between the Engadine and the 
road leading from Meran to the Fins- 
termiinz, and to the E. several val¬ 
leys that descend towards the Adige. 
The geographical limits of the district 
are the Engadine to the N., the Adige 
to the E., the valley of Non and Sole 
to the S., with the pass leading from 
the latter to Val Furva, and the val¬ 
leys connecting Bormio with Zernetz 
by the Foscagno Pass to the W. 

The territory here included is divided 
between three States. The valleys 
drained into the Inn, with a trifling 
exception, and one of those near the 
head of the Adige, belong to Switzer¬ 
land: to Italy are now united all the 
affluents of the Adda: but the larger 
part of this district lies within the 
Austrian dominions. On this account, 
the mountaineer wishing to explore the 
country should have his passport duly 
i provided with an Austrian visa. The 





ROUTE A. 


BATHS OF BORMIO. 


421 


Baths of Bormio afford good accom¬ 
modation, but the lover of grand 
scenery will prefer the less luxu¬ 
rious quarters found at Sta. Catarina. 
There are many other places that may 
afford interesting occupation to the 
mountaineer Of these Trafoi, on the 
Stelvio road, and Rabbi in a lateral 
valley of Val di Sole, deserve especial 
commendation. While within view of 
the numerous forts and blockhouses 
erected of late years by the Austrian 
Government in the valleys leading to 
the Adige, the traveller must carefully 
avoid sketching, or even making notes 
of any kind, on pain of disagreeable 
consequences. 

The Valley of the Adige, forming 
the boundary of this district, is not 
described here. The German portion 
above Botzen is described in § 48. 


Route A. 

BORMIO TO MALS—PASS OF THE STEL- 


VIO - ASCENT 

OF THE 

ORTELEK- 

SPITZ E. 

Ifaliai 

1 Eng. 


miles 

miles 

Santa Maria . 

l<H 

1 If 

Trafoi . 

• • '4 

0 

Prad 

7 

8 

Mats 

. . 7 i 

81 



V 


The magnificent road of the Stelvio, 
in many respects the most remarkable 
ever constructed, seemed to be doomed 
to ruin, after the separation of Lom¬ 
bardy from the Austrian monarchy, 
there being no adequate motive for in¬ 
curring the heavy expenditure neces¬ 
sary to keep it up ; but the communes 
on either side have contrived to main¬ 
tain the road in tolerable order since 
1859, and may be able to do so for some 
time longer. A small post omnibus 
runs daily in summer between Bormio 
and Eyers (§ 48, Rte. A). Voituriers 
commonly employ six days between 
Samaden or St. Moritz and Innsbruck, 


sleeping at the following places on 
the road : — 1. Poschiavo or Le 
Prese ; 2. Bormio; 3. Trafoi; 4. Nau- 
ders ; 5. Imst; 6. Innsbruck. It 
would be hard to name any other line 
of road, passable in a carriage, lying 
through such beautiful, gVand, and 
varied scenery as this. The distances 
given above on the road between Bor¬ 
mio and Prad are believed to be correct, 
as measured along the carriage-road ; 
but a pedestrian may shorten the way 
considerably, and the distance between 
Trafoi and the Baths of Bormio may be 
walked in 5| hrs., exclusive of halts. 

Bormio —Germ. Worms. —(Inn: Post, 
improved, recent reports favourable; 
several inferior houses), is a small but 
very ancient town, 4,016 ft. above the 
sea, frequently mentioned in medieval 
history, both owing to its position as 
one of the keys of Northern Italy, and 
for the mineral springs near it, which 
appear to have been known in the time 
of Pliny. It stands close to the junc¬ 
tion of the Frodolfo, issuing from Val 
Furva (Rte. BJ with the Adda, which 
is formed a few miles N. of the town by 
the union of the torrent from Val 
Fraele (generally considered the main 
source of the river) with the Braulio, 
issuing from the ravine that leads to 
the Stelvio Pass. A fourth stream issues 
from the Val di Dentro, about 14 m. 
above Bormio, and including the branch 
that drains Val Viola (§ 36, Rte. L), 
has the longest course of all those 
that unite in the basin of Bormio. 
Though situated in the near neighbour¬ 
hood of grand scenery, the little town 
will not detain the traveller, who will 
prefer to fix his head-quarters at Sta. 
Catarina (Rte. B), or else at the Baths 
of Bormio. These are about l£m. N. of 
the town, on the slope of the mountain 
overlooking the Adda. The high road 
is carried up hill all the way to the 
New Baths. This is a large, handsome, 
and well-managed establishment, now 
much frequented by Italians during the 
summer, and sometimes over-crowded. 
The position is convenient for some 
excursions, but far inferior to Sta. 







422 


RHiETIAN ALPS. § 37 . ORTELER DISTRICT. 


Catarina. Charge for a char to 
Tirano, 14 or 15 fr. 

The waters of Bormio are said to 
be intermediate in character between 
those of Leak and Pfafers, and to be 
efficacious in some female diseases. A 
few hundfed yards above the new 
establishment are the Bagni Vecchi 
("4,708'), now occupied by patients of 
the poorer class. In the gorge below 
the Baths, the united torrents from 
Yal Fraele and Val di Braulio issue 
through a narrow cleft, forming a pic¬ 
turesque waterfall, enclosed between 
vertical rocks. Although the entrance 
is difficult, Yal Fraele (llte. K) is 
connected by easy and low passes 
both with the valley of the Inn and 
that of the Adige; and it is now 
questioned whether it would not be 
cheaper to construct a new road in that 
direction than to incur the cost of 
keeping up the existing line. At the 
Ponte del Piano, close to the junction of 
the two torrents, the road enters the 
Yal di Braulio through one of the 
wildest and most savage defiles in the 
Alps. Excepting the Via Mala, there 
is none other so forbidding in aspect 
that has been pierced by a carriage- 
road. At the entrance of the first tun¬ 
nel (Galleria dei Bagni), an inscription 
perpetuates the names of the two 
Italian engineers, Donegani and Ma- 
setti, who planned and directed its 
execution. Several other short tunnels 
follow in rapid succession, as the road 
ascends to the first refuge (Prima Can- 
toniera), 5,971 ft. above the sea. Here 
the narrowest and wildest part of the 
defile has been passed; but though the 
valley opens a little, nothing can be 
more stern than its aspect. Bare rocks 
and steep slopes of debris rise on either 
side, seeming to defy the boldness of 
those who first thought of making such 
ground passable for wheeled vehicles. 

The Seconda Cantoniera, now in 
ruins, is 839 ft. higher, and about 2 m. j 
beyond the first. As a protection 
against avalanches, the road is through¬ 
out a great part of the ascent covered 
by artificial stone galleries, preserving 


the natural slope of the mountain, and 
allowing free passage to snow, ice, and 
rocks, that sweep the declivity. Be¬ 
yond the second refuge a bridge called 
Ponte Alto crosses the torrent from 
Yal di Yitelli. 

After crossing the bridge, the road 
is carried in zigzags up a rocky slope 
known as Spondalunga, above which 
it crosses to the rt. bank of the Braulio 
torrent, and in 1 hr from the second 
refuge reaches the Terza Cantoniera 
(7,874'). Stunted plants of Pinus mu- 
g/ius are seen up to 7,6UO ft. The steep¬ 
est part of the ascent having been sur¬ 
mounted, theroad enters the wild basin in 
which the Braulio torrent is formed by 
the melting of the snows on the adjoin¬ 
ing heights. To the W. is Monte 
Braulio (9,790'), whose slopes produce 
many of the rarest alpine plants, 
amongst which may be noted Ranuncu¬ 
lus parnassifolius, Papaver pyrenaicum , 
Crepis pyymcea, Primula oenensis , and 
Air a subspicata. A comparatively 
gentle ascent leads to the former post- 
house and Cantoniera di Sta. Maria 
(8,153'), with a large building contain¬ 
ing the custom-house, and giving shelter 
to the men employed on the road. 
There is here a rough, but tolerable 
Inn, which may be serviceable to a 
mountaineer wishing to explore the 
Orteler group. The landlord, a very 
civil Italian, keeps a meteorological 
register, formerly furnished to him 
from Yienna. The inn here stands 
about 200 feet higher than the hospice 
of the Great St. Bernard, and this is by 
many degrees the highest permanently 
occupied hostelry in Europe. Close 
at hand is the ancient pass, known as 
the Passo di Braulio, or Wormser .loch 
(8,323'). A short way to the NW. is 
the summit of Piz Umbrail (9.954'), 
commanding a better view than Monte 
Braulio. The traveller should not fail 
to diverge a few yards from the road in 
j order to gain the ridge whence a good 
j track leads in 2£ hrs. down to Sta. 
j Maria in the Miinsterthal. That name 
j is given (see Rte. H) to the upper part 
i of the valley of the Rammhach, which 




ROUTE A.-STELVIO PASS. 


4*23 


belongs to Switzerland, while the lower 
portion, commencing 3 m. below Sta. 
Maria, is within the Tyrolese frontier. 
It appears that when the Austrian Go¬ 
vernment decided on the construction of 
the great road through Val Tellina, it 
was expected that the Swiss might be 
induced to cede the small corner of 
their territory required to carry the 
road duwn to Glurns in the Vintsch- 
gau, or to make a convention which 
would have given to the Austrians full 
control over the road. It was upon 
the failure of this design that the bold 
project of carrying the road over the 
still higher and much more difficult 
•Stelvio Pass was formed and achieved. 

On the Italian side the ascent is not 
very steep, but some zigzags may be 
cut off by the pedestrian, shortening 
the way (nearly 2 m. by the road) from 
the Cantoniera Sta. Maria to the Stel¬ 
vio Pass—Germ. Stilfserjoch —9,213 ft. 
above the sea, and more than 1,500 ft. 
higher than any other pass traversed 
by a carriage-road. Here a scene of un¬ 
expected grandeur is suddenly opened. 
During the ascent, rock scenery of the 
sternest kind has exclusively prevailed, 
and though masses of ice are seen to 
impend over the stony barriers on the 
S. side of the road, they are no way 
conspicuous in the view. The traveller 
now finds himself on the verge of a 
steep declivity whose slope, covered 
with incoherent debris, and obviously 
the favourite track of avalanches from 
the adjoining heights, falls at a uni¬ 
form angle towards a glacier that sweeps 
down from the rt. towards the valley 
below. The glacier is the Madatsch- 
femer , or Madatsch Glacier; the mount - 
tain on the opposite side is the Madatsch, 
and beyond it are the snow-fields above 
the Trafoi Glacier, culminating iu the 
Orteler Spitze. The distant view is 
better seen from an eminence N. of the 
road (easily reached in 10 minutes), 
sometimes called Dreysprachen Spitze, 
because it is the corner-stone between 
the German valley of Trafoi, the Italian 
Val di Braulio, and the Swiss-Romantsch 
Miinsterthal, or Val Mustair. From 


the summit, where a deserted hut gives 
shelter to a watchman on the boundary 
between Italy and Austria, it is well 
worth while to reach the higher sum¬ 
mit of the Monte Plessura (9,941'), 
lying rather farther to NNE., and 
easily reached in 1 hr. from the pass. 
The Gltzthal Alps (§ 48) and some of 
the peaks of the Bernina are the most 
remarkable distant objects. 

The descent of the slope on the W. 
side of the pass was one of the most 
arduous parts of the great work. The 
steepness of the mountain, and its 
exposure to avalanches, suggested no 
small amount of difficulty and danger. 
The road is carried along a sort of 
notch cut in the face of the mountain 
in a long succession of zigzags, while 
the requisite protection from avalanches 
is afforded by galleries of massive tim¬ 
ber, with the roofs set so as to coincide 
with the natural slope, and to offer no 
projecting surface to resist the shock. 
These galleries are falling into a ruin¬ 
ous condition, and it has been found 
necessary to remove several of them. 
Out of forty-eight zigzags on this side 
of the pass, the majority are between 
the summit and Franzenshohe, formerly 
a post station and barrack, now open 
as an inn from 1st June to 15th Oct., 
about 7,200 ft. above the sea. The view 
from thence is very beautiful, and may 
content those who approach the pass 
from the side of the Vintschgau with¬ 
out intending to cross into Italy. Be¬ 
sides the Madatsch Glacier and the 
peaks beyond it, the traveller now looks 
down into the Trafoithal, which is 
scarcely seen from above, as it bends 
to the NE., while the course hitherto 
followed has been nearly due E. The 
sight of the pine forests that clothe the 
slopes of that beautiful valley is re¬ 
freshing to the eye, that has scarcely 
rested on a tree since leaving the Baths 
of Bormio. In 2 hrs. from the summit 
the pedestrian, availing himself of 
short cuts, very easily reaches 

Trafoi (5.079') (Inn : Post, good, 
simple, kept by Frau Barbara Orteler, 
a new house is probably now finished), 





424 


RILETIAN ALFS. § 37 . ORTELER DISTRICT. 


very beautifully situated opposite the 
opening of a short glen, through which 
descends the torrent from the Trafoi 
Glacier. Those who attempt nothing 
more ambitious should make a short 
excursion to the foot of that glacier, 
offering, in exquisite combination, all 
the elements of grandeur and beauty. 
The way to it follows the 1. bank, and 
( rosses the torrent from the Madatsch 
and Trafoi Glaciers, and then reaches 
the Heiligen drey Brunnen, a sort of 
mountain sanctuary, where three little 
fountains of exquisitely pure and cold 
water are made to issue from three 
rudely-carved wooden figures. From the 
dark face of the Madatsch three copious 
torrents issue from cavities in the lime¬ 
stone, and either from these, or the 
minor sources consecrated by religious 
feeling, it is supposed that Trafoi (tres 
fontes ?) takes its name. The geologist 
will remark the contrast between the 
black limestone of which the Orteler 
Spitze, the Madatsch, and the neigh¬ 
bouring ridges are composed, and the 
talcose and other crystalline slates of 
the mountains N. of the Stelvio Pass. 
About 2 1 m. below Trafoi is Gomagoi 
(3,901'), with a small and poor inn, at 
the junction of the Suldenthal (Rte. D) 
with the Trafoithal. An interesting 
excursion may be made to the Sulden 
Glacier, reached in 4 or 4^ hrs. from 
Gomagoi. Below the latter village the 
mountains on both sides are composed 
of mica-schist. After passing a smelt- 
: ng house and leaving Stiff's on the 
slope of the mountain to the 1, the road 
reaches Prad , the chief village of the 
valley, with two country inns. This is 
very near to the lower end of the Trafoi 
—or, as it is also called, Sti[fser~thal. In 
about m. from Prad the road reaches 
i bridge over the Adige, and joins the 
great road of the Yintschgau at Spon- 
dinig. Here the traveller bound for 
the Northern Tyrol turns to the 1., 
and soon reaches Mats (Inns: Post ; 
Hirsch). Those going to Meran and 
Botzen will turn to the rt., pass Eyers, 
and descend the Adige to Laas (§ 48). 

Ascent of the Orteler Spitze. This j 


1 noble peak, whose relations to the 
neighbouring ranges have been noticed 
in the introduction to this section, has 
or late been ascended by many Ger¬ 
man and English mountaineers. The 
old route for the ascent lay mainly 
along the rocky ridge descending 
NW. from the summit to the Heiligen 
drey Brunnen. That ridge bounds 
on the NE. side the double ice- 
stream, which is commonly spoken of 
as the Trafoi Glacier. This, in truth, 
includes two separate glaciers, divided 
by a very steep rocky ridge called 
Zicqerpa/fn. The Unter Trafoiferner, 
which has been also called Orteler 
Gletscher, is that nearer to the Orteler 
Sp., drains the larger snow-basin, and 
descends lower (to about 5,400'). The 
Ober Trafoiferner falls between the 
Ziegerpalfen and the Madatsch ridge, 
which divides it from the Madatsch- 
ferner. In ascending by the old route 
it was usual to bivouac at an aban¬ 
doned hut in a hollow above the Drey 
Brunnen, and to effect the steepest part 
of the climb by an ice-couloir, called 
the Pleis, which involved much step¬ 
cutting, and some risk from falling ice 
and rocks. On the N. side of the ridge 
that bounds the Pleis is a glen or 
depression, called Tabarcttathal, closed 
at its upper end by the small Ta- 
baretta Glacier that falls westward 
from the N. ridge of the Orteler Spitze. 
By this glen, partly by the moraine on 
the rt. bank, and partly by the Taba- 
retta Gl., Messrs. Tuckett, and E. and 
H. Buxton, with Christian Michel and 
Franz Biener, struck out a new route 
in 1864. On approaching the summit 
of the ridge dividing them from Sulden 
they turned to (he rt., and ascended the 
rather steep but not difficult slopes of 
neve that cover the NW. face of the 
mountain. As in the old route, the 
highest ridge must be struck some way 
SW. of the highest point, which is a 
very sharp ridge (likened by Mr. 
Tuckett to the keel of a boat), in some 
places almost overhanging the head of 
the Sulden Glacier. The objection to 
this new route lies in the risk of ice- 






ROUTE B.-VAL FURY A. 


425 


avalanches from the upper part of the 
mountain, which fall pretty frequently 
on the Tabaretta Glacier. This may 
be avoided altogether by ascending to 
the N. ridge of the mountain through 
a hollow immediately above Trafoi, 
parallel to, but N. of the Tabarettathal. 
‘ It is proposed to build a stone hut on 
the W. slope of the Tabaretta Spitze to 
facilitate the ascent.’—[E. M.] 

The earliest ascent of the Orteler Sp. 
was made from the Suldenthal, but the 
ancient course has become impracti¬ 
cable. This lay along the E. ridge 
descending from the peak between the 
head of the Sulden Gl. and the true 
Orteler Glacier, not to be confounded 
with the Unter Trafoi Glacier on the 
opposite side of the mountain. Dr. E. 
von Mojsisovics, who also ascended by 
Mr. Tuckett’s route, has effected the 
ascent from Sulden by the Marleck, a 
ridge projecting eastward from the Ta¬ 
baretta Spitze, and by a couloir locally 
called Durchfabrt. This route joins 
that of Mr. Tuckett on the ice-slopes 
above the Tabaretta Glacier. It ap¬ 
pears to be shorter by 1 hr., and free 
from the risk of avalanches. The best 
local guides for the Orteler Sp. are 
Johann Thoni, J. Pinggera of Sulden, 
and J. Mortzug. Anton Ortler is not 
recommended. No one of these is very 
good upon ice, and they require to be 
kept in order as to the use of the rope. 

‘ Moderate walkers who do not at¬ 
tempt the ascent of the Orteler may 
gain an admirable view of the mountain 
from the summit of the Korspitze 
(9,604'), rising W. of Trafoi, and 
easily reached from thence in 4 hrs. 
There is a good path nearly to the top.’ 

Mr. J. Warner recommends in pre¬ 
ference the view front Piz Miinschnns 
(9,751'), lying in the same range. The 
highest point is apparently Piz Cos- 
tainas (9,865'), which seems to be also 
accessible without difficulty. 


Route B. 

BORMIO TO TRENTO, BY VAL FURVA 
AND VAL DI SOLE. 


Santa Catarina 


Hrs.’ 
walking 
. 2* 

Km>. 

miles 

7 * 

Pejo . N . 

• 

7 

1ft 

Fusine 

• 

. 2 

ti 

Maid 

• 

3 

y 

Cles 

# 

. 3 

y 

San Michele 


- 4* 

R'i 

Trento 

• 

. 3i 


Char-road from 

Bormio to Sta. 

70 % 

Catarina 


On foot from thence to Pelizzano—Carriage- 
road from Pelizzano to San Michele—Rail way 
from thence to Trento. The distances set down 
above are only approximate. 

There are not many routes through 
the Alps that offer a greater variety of 
grand and beautiful scenery than that 
here indicated, especially if the travel¬ 
ler will give himself time to explore 
the neighbourhood of Sta. Catarina 
and Pejo, and to make a slight detour 
to the Baths of Rabbi (Rte F). The 
walk from Sta. Catarina to Pejo in¬ 
volves the passage of a high and rough 
ridge, free from difficulty to the moun¬ 
taineer, but somewhat too laborious for 
ladies. They may reach the Val di 
Sole from Sta. Catarina by a less diffi¬ 
cult though longer way. descending 
from the Gavia Pass to Ponte di Legno, 
and then following the Tonale road to 
Pelizzano; or the whole tour may be 
made in a carriage, by returning from 
Sta. Catarina to Bormio, descending 
the Val Tellina to Tresenda (§ 36, 
Rte. E), traversing theAprica Pass to 
Edolo (§ 39, Rte. E), and following the 
main road of the Tonale (§ 39. Rte. A) 
to Pelizzano. 

As mentioned in Rte. A, the Fro- 
dol/'u torrent issues from Val Furva 
close to Bormio. A tolerable char- 
road is carried along the rt. bank, 
reaching in jr hr. S. Nicolo, the prin¬ 
cipal village of the valley. At S. Got - 
tardo, about £ hr. farther, the Val di 
Zebru, descending from the E. joins 
the main branch of Val Furva, which 
here turns SE. The beautiful pyra¬ 
midal peak of the Tresero, which was 






•126 


RILETIAN ALPS. § 37 . ORTELEK DISTRICT. 


m view in the lower part of the valley, 
is now concealed. Except for the bo¬ 
tanist, who may gather by the wayside 
Hieracium glaucum , Echinospermum 
dejlexum, and Wood si a hyperborea , there 
is little to attract attention, as the road 
ascends gradually along the rt. bank 
of the torrent, until in about 2^ hrs. from 
Bormio the traveller approaches 

Santa Catarina. This place consists 
of a chapel and four or five houses on 
the rt. bank of the Frodolfo, and a 
large building on the opposite bank, 
occupied in summer by visitors who 
come to drink the water of a strong 
chalybeate spring that issues near at 
hand. Being highly charged with 
carbonic acid, these waters are agree¬ 
able to the taste when mixed with wine, 
and are bottled and largely consumed 
in the N. of Italy. From the mean of 
14 observations taken by the writer, 
the Stabilimento stands 5,720 ft. above 
the sea. The position of this place, 
in the centre of a semicircle of snowy 
peaks that extend fully 25 m. from the 
Stelvio road to the Tonale Pass, is most 
attractive to the mountaineer, and the 
scenery, in the writer’s opinion, de¬ 
cidedly superior to that of any place in 
the Engadine. The accommodation is 
rather rough, the food good, and the 
charges reasonable; but the house is 
not as clean as it ought to be. The 
best guides in the valley are Pietro 
Compagnoni and Ignazio Antonioletti. 
The first is a steady and safe man. 

The pine forests here are much finer 
than those of the Upper Engadine; 
and these, as well as the higher ridges, 
offer many rare plants, such as Hut- 
chinsia brevicaulis, Dianthus glacialis , 
Cherleria imbricata, Linncea borealis , 
Willemetia apargioides, Primula gluti- 
nosa, Kceleria hirsuta, and Sesleria te- 
itella. 

A level plain extends for f m. above 
Sta. Catarina, and here the Val Furva 
comes to an end, at the base of the 
beautiful Monte Tresero (1 1,636'), also 
called Piz Alto, not to be confounded 
with the Corno dci Tre Signori men¬ 


tioned below, though the derivation is 
the same. The Tresero is, in truth, 
merely the gable end of a sharp snow- 
ridge projecting WNW. from the Punta 
di San Matteo (11,920'), which crowns 
the watershed between the Frodolfo and 
the Nos. Of the two torrents meeting 
above Sta. Catarina, the most con¬ 
siderable flows from the NE. branch, 
or Val Forno(Rte. C); the lesser stream 
issues from Val Gavia, which opens due 
S. at a high level above the mineral 
spring. 

Sta. Catarina is the Zermatt of the 
Rhsetian Alps. In the centre of a great 
girdle of snowy peaks it beholds but 
one of the higher summits; and though 
the Tresero recalls the form of the 
Weisshorn rather than that of the 
Matterhorn, and the Forno Glacier is 
not comparable in dimensions to that 
of Gorner, the relative positions are 
much the same. As the Gorner Grat 
affords the grandest panorama near 
Zermatt, so here the Monte Confinale 
(11.076'), the highest part of the ridge 
dividing Val Furva from Val di Zebru, 
commands a view that must be more 
and more famous as it becomes gene¬ 
rally known. All the highest peaks of 
this district, mentioned in the intro¬ 
duction to this section, are seen ranged 
round the spectator—the Orteler Sp. 
rising far above the col between the 
Kleiner Zebru and the Thurwieser 
Spitze and the deep rugged trench of 
Val di Zebru lying between the eye 
and the high range beyond it, vastly 
enhances the effect. Of more distant 
peaks, the Presanella, seen to the rt. of 
the Tresero, the Monte della Disgrazia, 
the Bernina group, and the Piz Einard, 
are the most remarkable. The way 
to the Confinale is nearly straight 
through an upland hollow, whose 
streamlet falls just opposite to the Sta¬ 
bilimento. At its upper end a ridge 
of shattered rocks is seen supporting a 
small snow-covered glacier that man¬ 
tles the broad shoulder of the moun¬ 
tain. The more direct way involves 
some scrambling amid huge loose 





ROUTE B.-—ASCENT OF THE TRESERO. 


427 


blocks, but the glacier is thus reached 
where it seemed safe and unbroken. 
It is rather easier to bear to the 1., and 
keep along the ridge so as to avoid the 
glacier. Practised mountaineers will 
not require a guide, but do wisely to take 
a rope. The height above the valley 
being about 5.350 ft., moderate walkers 
will take 4 to 4^ hrs., including halts. 
The descent is easily made in 2^ hrs. 
The way is too rough for most ladies. 

Several other excursions from Sta. 
Catarina are incidentally noticed in 
this and the following Rtes. No visi¬ 
tor should omit a visit to the Forno 
Glacier (Rte. C), a very beautiful and 
easy excursion, quite fit for ladies. 

Several passes are now known across 
the high range enclosing the Forno 
Glacier. The most direct way to Pejo 
is probably the Passo di Vios (about 
10,868'), traversed by Mr. Tuckett, in 
1866. It is a slight depression be¬ 
tween the Monte Vios and the Saline 
(11,772'), which latter point, reached 
in 1 hr. from the pass, commands a 
magnificent view. In mid-June the 
Vios Glacier presented no difficulty. 
Later in the season Mr. Tuckett re¬ 
commends travellers to keep to the SW. 
side. Time from 8 to 9 hrs., excluding 
halts. Mr. Tuckett has described ano¬ 
ther pass, named by him Passo del Forno 
(11.041')— Passo della Vedretta Fossa 
of Payer—of which the following is an 
abridged account:—‘The ascent offers 
no difficulty whatever, and except for 
the first j hr., the eastern side is also 
perfectly easy. Sta. Catarina to foot of 
Vedretta di Forno, 1^ hr.; thence to 
right (N.) lateral moraine at the foot of 
the ice-fall, 1 hr.; along moraine, \ hr.; 
up slopes of rock and turf to rt. lateral 
moraine of a glacier descending from 
S. side of the Fornaccia, 1 hr.; and 
thence to summit of the pass, 1^ hr. 
Total ascent, 5 hrs. Bearing to the 1. 
during the descent of the Vedretta Fossa , 
and keeping somewhat N. of the centre, 
the ice was finally quitted for the 1. 
lateral moraine in 1 hr. ; the highest 
malga in the Val della Mare reached in 
lj hr.; Pejo in 2| hrs. ; and the Bagni 
in | hr. more. Total descent, 4f hrs. 


Quite equally interesting is Lt. Pay¬ 
er’s pass— Col deyli Orsi (10,847')— 
lying between the Giumella and Punta 
Cadini, about the southernmost point in 
the range enclosing the Forno Glacier. 
The descent lies by the 1. bank of a 
small glacier at the head of Val deyli 
Orsi, which joins Val Bormina less 
than 1 hr. above the mineral spring at 
Pejo. 

There is no doubt that a pass may 
be effected, more direct, but probably 
longer than the Sforzellina Pass, lead¬ 
ing to Pejo across the ridge enclosing the 
Gavia Glacier, but no particulars re¬ 
specting it have reached the Editor. 
This proposed pass might be taken in 
connection with the most attractive ex¬ 
cursion from Sta. Catarina—the ascent 
of Monte Tresero , or that of the still 
higher Punta di San Matteo. Neither 
can be reckoned as a difficult peak 
for travellers accompanied by a guide 
well used to ice-work. Both were 
first ascended in 1865, on the same 
day, by Messrs. Tuckett, Freshfield, 
and f'ox, with Frangois Devouas- 
soud and Peter Michel. Turning to 
the 1. from the Senter di Tresero, lead¬ 
ing to the Gavia Pass (§ 39, Rte. F), 
they struck up the slopes to the 1. be¬ 
fore reaching the Ponte di Preda (see 
below), and gained the rt. moraine 
of the Gavia Glacier in 2^ hrs. from 
Sta. Catarina. Following at first the 
centre of the ice-stream, then keeping 
to the rt. to avoid the most broken 
part of the ice-fall, they traversed the 
seracs, and attained the NE. corner of 
the upper plateau of neve. To avoid 
a furious wind, they diverged a little 
from the direct course, crossed the 
ridge connecting the P. di S. Matteo 
with the Corno dei Tre Signori, and 
reached the former peak from the S. side 
in 5j hrs.’ actual walking. Favoured 
by weather, the view was of marvellous 
extent, comprising the Alpine chain 
from Monte Viso to the Gross Glockner. 
Returning by the same course to the 
head of the Gavia Glacier, and crossing 
a snowy ridge that projects from the 
inner, or SE. peak of the Tresero, the 
NW. peak was gained in 1^ hr. more. 






428 


RH2ETIAN ALPS. 


§ 37 . ORTELER DISTRICT. 


This, which is the only summit visible 
from Sta. Catarina, surpasses its rival 
by 35 ft. It commands a horizon 
rather less extensive than the P. della 
Mare, but has the advantage of look¬ 
ing down directly into the Val Furva 
and the valley of Bormio. In subse¬ 
quent ascents of the Tresero a more 
direct course has been taken, chiefly 
along the ridge forming the N. boun¬ 
dary of the Gavia Glacier. 

The ordinary way to Pejo, which is, 
however, very little used, is by the Passo 
di Sforzel/ina (9,950'), reached by the 
more frequented of the two paths lead¬ 
ing to the Gavia Pass, which is further 
noticed in § 39., Rte. F. In its north¬ 
ward course from the head of Val 
Gavia to join Val Furva, the torrent 
has cut an extremely deep and quite 
impassable ravine, so that those who 
would gain the upper level of Val 
Gavia must take a course at some dis¬ 
tance from the stream. This is easily 
passed only at one point, about 500 ft. 
above the level of Val Furva, where a 
bridge called Ponte della Vacca serves 
the herdsmen who dwell in summer on 
the opposite slopes. To reach this 
from Sta. Catarina, the track ascends 
the hill-side S. of the Stabilimento, 
then bears to the 1. nearly at a level, 
till it is necessary to descend somewhat 
to cross the Gavia torrent by the above- 
mentioned bridge. To this succeeds a 
long and steep slope where the track 
mounts by zigzags, till, in about H hr. 
from Sta. Catarina, the traveller attains 
the level of the Val di Gavia. This 
broad trough, with a nearly level floor 
subsiding gradually from its upper end, 
where its height is about 8,600 ft., to 
the edge of the slopes overlooking Val 
Furva (about 7,600'), divides the Tre¬ 
sero range from the range of Monte 
Sobretta (about 11,000') forming the S. 
boundary of Val Furva. When once 
the upper level has been attained, the 
path mounts very gradually, at first 
along the base of a rocky ridge extend¬ 
ing from the Tresero. Through an 
opening in this ridge the Gavia Gla¬ 
cier protrudes its icy tongue close to 
the track, which here crosses the gla¬ 


cier torrent by the Ponte di Preda* 
After passing the bridge the traveller 
may begin gradually to ascend diago¬ 
nally above the level of Val di Gavia 
till he reaches the neve of a small 
glacier that covers the ridge on the 
N. side of the Como dei Tre Signori 
(10.910'). 

The beautiful Primula glutinosa, one 
of the greatest ornaments of this re¬ 
gion, is very abundant throughout the 
ascent to the pass, which is reached in 
3j hrs. from Sta. Catarina. The view 
is limited, but may be extended by 
climbing a sharp tooth of rock N. 
of the pass. A rather steep descent, 
for a short way along the moraine of 
a small glacier of the Corno dei Tre 
Signori, leads down to the level of Val 
Borrnina. The way lies along stony 
slopes left of the torrent, gradually 
rising a little above its level, till the 
traveller descends to cross a foot-bridge 
just above the junction of Val Piana, a 
wild glen originating under the erases 
of the Giurnella. The track, now well 
traced, keeps to the rt. bank as far as 
the Malga di Palu, standing at the 
junction of Val Borrnina with a short 
glen running up to the Passo di Mon- 
tozzo (§ 39, Rte. F), which leads to 
Ponte di Legna. The path returns to 
the 1. bank in descending the valley— 
now called Val del Monte —passes by 
the way a newly discovered mineral 
spring, and, in 7 hrs.’ steady walking 
from Santa Catarina, reaches Pejo. The 
so-called Fonte di Pejo is a pleasant 
chalybeate spring on the rt. bank of the 
torrent, which attracts many visitors to 
a rough inn, open only during the short 
season of less than 3 months. When it 
is full, those who seek night-quarters 
must ascend at least 20 min. to the vil¬ 
lage of Pejo, standing on the steep 
slope above the 1. bank, where there is 
a very poor inn. 

A rapid descent leads in less than 
| hr. to Cogolo, a village on the 1. bank 
of the torrent, henceforward called Nos, 
at the junction of the Val della Mare 
(Rte. F). Here lives Domenico Veneri, 
the best guide hereabouts. An easy 
and agreeable path leads from Cogolo 




ROUTE r>. 


VAL DI NON. 


429 


along the valley, called Val di Pcjo , as 
far as Fusine. 

In about 2 hrs. from Pejo the travel¬ 
ler reaches Fusine, a small place at the 
opening of Val Vermiglio, through -which 
descends the new road of the Tonale 
(§ 39, Rte. A), one of the many by 
which the Austrian Government sought 
to bind the Lombard provinces to the 
Empire. On reaching that road the 
traveller is but twenty minutes from 
Pelizzano, where there is a toleraole 
inn. The valley of the Nos now as¬ 
sumes the name Valdi Sole , or Sulzberg, 
which is often given collectively to 
the main valley and its tributaries 
dowm to the point where it turns 
abruptly to the S. and obtains the name 
Val di Non. It is usually possible to 
hire a char at Pelizzano; 'but other¬ 
wise it is necessary to walk as far as 
Male, a distance of fully 9 m. Below 
Pelizzano the JYos, or Noce, torrent, 
now swollen by many tributary streams, 
follows a course at first a little N. of 
E., and after passing Dimaro its course 
is due ENE. The peaks of the Tresero 
range are here completely shut out, 
and the scenery, though pleasing, is 
not very striking. Occasional glimpses 
of the range of the Presanella and 
Piscanno (§ 40) are gained, but the 
highest mountains rarely come into 
view from the main valley. This is 
somewhat contracted, leaving little 
space for cultivation ; yet several vil¬ 
lages follow in rapid succession. The 
chief of those on the rt. bank of the 
Nos is Dimaro (with a decent country 
inn), at the confluence of the Meledro, 
issuing from the picturesque Val Selva, 
through which lies the only easy way 
from the N. into Val Rendena. A *'ery 
fair looking inn is passed 2 m. farther, 
about 10 min. before reaching the prin¬ 
cipal place of Val di Sole— 

Male (Inn : Corona, very fair ac¬ 
commodation, but notorious for extor¬ 
tionate charges), a thriving village 
(about 2,530'), on the N. side of the 
Nos, close to the junction of the Rab- 
bies torrent issuing from Val di Rabbi 
(Rte. F). A slow country diligence 


plies daily to the rlv. station at San 
Michele, with a long halt at Cles in 
ascending the valley. Below Male the 
road to Cles, which has been improved, 
keeps to the 1. bank till the Nos falls 
through a deep ravine, and at the same 
time is bent to the rt so rapidly that 
its course from ENE. is soon turned 
about due S. The road descends to a 
bridge, and then winds along the steep 
slopes above the rt. bank, passing the 
chapel at St. Chiatar. which commands 
a beautiful view. Here the traveller 
enters the fertile district called Val di 
JVon, or Nonsberg, which includes not 
only the lower valley of the Nos, but 
also the tributary branches noticed in 
Rte. I. On high ground some way 
from the stream stands 

Cles (Inns: Aquila ; CoronaV a 
small town of great antiquity, as is 
proved by Roman coins of the Re¬ 
public, and many of later date. The 
church which has given the place its 
name (Ecclesia) stands on the site of 
a temple of Saturn. The neighbour¬ 
hood is rich rather than picturesque, 
producing much wine and silk. For 
some distance the road traverses an 
undulating hilly tract W. of the Nos; 
but farther on the scenery becomes 
much more interesting, as the road 
descends through the narrow valley 
which is ultimately contracted to the 
defile of Roclietta. Several castles are 
seen during the descent to San Michele, 
of whicli the largest belongs to Count 
Thun. The Roclietta, through which 
lies the only carriage-road between 
the head of Val Camonica and the 
Adige, has been fortified by the Aus¬ 
trians within the last few years. The 
scenery of the defile is very striking, 
and the road finally emerges from it m 
one of the finest parts of the valley of 
the Adige. There is a road on both 
banks of the Nos leading down to the 
Adige. The better way, that taken 
by the diligence, keeps to the rt. bank 
through Mezzo Lombardo — Germ. 
Welsch Metz—(Inn: Corona, very fair). 
Pedestrians bound for San Michele 
should prefer the old road on the oppo- 





430 


RILETIAN ALPS. § 37 . ORTELER DISTRICT. 


site bank, traversing; Mezzo Tedesco , or 
Deutsch Metz. These names, and 
other similar designations in the val¬ 
ley, refer to the ancient distribution of 
the population along the frontier di¬ 
viding the German and Italian races. 
In modern times the Italians have in 
some measure driven back the tide of 
northern immigration, and the Welsch, 
or Italian tongue, prevails almost ex¬ 
clusively as far as Botzen. 

At the station of San Michele, rather 
more than 10 m. from Trento, the tra¬ 
veller joins the rly. from Botzen to 
Verona, described in § 57. 


Route C. 

SANTA CATARINA TO LATSCH, BY THE 
PASSO CEVEDALE. 

The way from Sta. Catarina to the 
German Tyrol through the Martellthal 
is extremely interesting, and not at all 
difficult with a good guide. It is, 
however, quite possible to miss the 
true way for the descent from the pass 
on the E. side, and on this account it 
is more advisable, when practicable, to 
take it from the E. side than from Sta. 
Catarina. 

The way from that place to the Ceve- 
dale Pass is through the beautiful Val 
Forno, a short glen through which the 
stream from the Forno Glacier de¬ 
scends to join the Gavia torrent, and 
form the Frodolfo. A frequented 


cattle-track on the rt. bank of the 
stream leads from the bridge at Santa 
Catarina, commanding exquisite views 
of the Tresero, on whose steep NW. 
flank the Chiarena Glacier is seen sus¬ 
pended. In about li hr. the track 
reaches a rocky knoll rounded by the 
former passage of the glacier, but now 
forming the barrier which arrests the 
progress of the Vedretla di Forno , the 
most extensive glacier of this district. 
Its basin is enclosed by the high peaks 
enumerated in the introduction to this 
§, the highest of which is the round- 
topped Pallon della Mare, conspicuous 
from Sta. Catarina. These summits 
describe a concave arc whose chord is 
about 5 m. in length. 

The way to ttie Martellthal turns 
away from* the Forno Glacier, and 
mounts the green slopes above its 
rt. bank, whereon stand numerous cha¬ 
lets, and some rather solid and com¬ 
fortable houses, inhabited in summer 
by herdsmen and their families. At 
the top of these slopes an upland glen, 
called Val Cedeh , opens out somewhat 
E. of N. Through this lies the way to 
the pass. It offers little interest until 
the noble Konigs Spitze, and the ridge 
connecting it with the Monte Ceve- 
dale, comes into view. The notch in 
the ridge descending from the former 
peak, called by Mr. Tuckett Konigs 
Joch, will also be observed. Following 
a sheep-track at some height above the 
1. bank of the stream, the 1. moraine of 
the Cedeh Glacier is struck in 1 hr. 
from the upper chalet, or 3 hrs. from 
Sta. Catarina. For^ hr. the glacier is 
traversed, and then an ascent of 1 hr. 
more over steep slopes of rock and 
debris leads to the summit of the Passo 
Cevedale , called in the Martellthal 
Lantjenferner Joch (10,765' E. M.). 
This lies between the Konigs Spitze 
and Monte Cevedale, but nearer to the 
latter. By bearing to the 1. over the pla¬ 
teau of neve forming the summit of the 
pass, but keeping a little to the rt. of the 
Sulden Spitze, here showing as a low 
cone projecting from the snow-field, the 
traveller will strike the ridge called by 





ROUTE C.-ASCENT OF THE KONIGS SfTTZE. 


431 


M. von Mojsisovics Janiger Scharte, 
which separates the neve of the Langen- 
femer from that of the Sulden Glacier, 
over which lies the descent to Sulden. 
This passage is about 220 ft. lower than 
the Passo Cevedale.] 

The Langenferner , over which the 
traveller must find his way to the 
Martellthal, is far more extensive than 
the Cedeh Glacier, and is in many 
places broken up into huge seracs. 
In attempting the descent in 1864, 
from the Italian side, M. von Mojsiso¬ 
vics encountered serious difficulties; but 
on returning a few days later, under the 
skilful guidance of Janiger, he effected 
the ascent without finding any serious 
obstacle in the way. 

The scenery at the head of the Mar¬ 
tellthal is of the grandest character. 
The main ice-stream of the Langen¬ 
ferner receives a considerable affluent 
from the SW., called Fiirkeleferner, 
descending from the Monte Cevedale, 
here called Fiirkele. A short way 
farther down, the Hohenferner descends 
in a great ice-fall from the S. The pass 
leading over it into Yal della Mare is 
noticed in Rte. F. Farther down on 
the S. side of the valley several other 
glaciers—the Ultnermarktferner, Gram- 
senferner and Zufridferner—come in 
succession into view, but do not reach- 
the level of the valley. The upper end 
of the valley is locally known as Ceval, 
and the name Ceval Spitze is given by 
the herdsmen, somewhat at random, to 
one or other of the summits visible 
from below. Hence have originated 
the names Zefall Sp., and Zufali Sp., 
appearing on most maps, but tending 
only to perpetuate confusion. Several 
hutten, or chalets, are here occupied in 
summer. The path keeps mostly to the 
1. bank of the Plima, as the main tor¬ 
rent is called, passes a chapel called 
Maria Schmelz (5,125'), and in about 
2|- hrs. from the foot of the glacier 
reaches the first permanent dwellings. 
In the first house dwells Sebastian 
Janiger, a well-known chamois hunter, 
the best guide in this district. He is 
an excellent ice-man, but not suffi¬ 


ciently sensible of the advantages of 
the rope and ice-axe, and is apt to 
lose precious time in the earlier part of 
a day’s walk. 

Of the numerous lateral glens passed 
in the way, the most important is that 
of the Soybach, a savage ravine open¬ 
ing on the SE. side of the valley. Two 
passes lead that way to St. Gertrud at 
the head of the Ultenthal (Rte. G). 
Both are said to lie in the midst of very 
striking scenery. If the traveller has 
not lost time in descending the Lan¬ 
genferner, he will in 9] hrs. steady 
walking from Sta. Catarina reach Gond 
(4,042'), the highest hamlet in the 
valley. About 1 m. lower, and on the 
1. bank of the Plima, is the principal 
church, with an inn of the poorest class 
beside it, and a group of houses called 
Thai. The traveller need not here cross 
the stream, as there is a good path on 
the rt. bank that will lead him in 1 hr. 
from Gond to the mineral spring called 
Salt (3,724') where he will find clean 
and cheap, but rather rough and poor, 
accommodation in a small establish¬ 
ment frequented by a few patients. The 
water is strongly impregnated with sul¬ 
phate of iron and other salts. This 
place is very near the opening of the 
valley. Morter, standing at the point 
where it opens into the Vintschgau, is 
but ^ hr. below the mineral spring. 
From that village the traveller pro¬ 
ceeding to Meran should take the 
country road to Latsch (Inns: Post; 
Rossli), the nearest post-station on the 
high road from Landeck to Botzen 
(§ 48), about 1 hr. distant from Morter. 
If his course be towards the head of the 
Vintschgau, he should go directly from 
Morter to Goldrain, and thence follow 
the high road to Schlanders, about 1] 
hr. from Morter. The entrance to the 
Martellthal from this side is very pic¬ 
turesque. The fine peak seen to the 1. 
is the Ilasenohr (10,675'), the highest 
point of the group which is collectively 
called Flatschberg. 

Ascent of the Konigs Spitze (12,646'). 
and the Monte Cevedale (12,505’). The 
Cevedale Pass above described lies be- 



432 


RILETIAN ALrS. § 3 ' 

tween two peaks that both offer many 
attractions to mountaineers—the first, 
by its greater height and bolder form ; 
the second, bv its more central po¬ 
sition, which overlooks the little-known 
recesses of the snowy range dividing 
the Val della Mare from the Forno 
Glacier. 

The Konigs Sp had preserved its 
reputation for inaccessibility until 18G4, 
though its summit had been reached 
ten years before by a monk named 
Steinberger, on whom the mantle of 
Placidus a 8pescha seems to have fallen 
in this century. Alone, and very im¬ 
perfectly acquainted with the topo¬ 
graphy of the district, he made his way 
from the Stelvio Pass across the Ma- 
datsch Joch(P), and the snow-fields ex¬ 
tending on the S. side of the ridge from 
thence to the peak of the Konigs Sp. 
Achieving the ascent by the SE. arete, 
he returned on the same day to Sta. 
Maria on the Stelvio road (Rte. A). 
In 1864 Mr. Tuckett, with Messrs. E. 
and H. Buxton, effected the ascent, of 
which an account is given in the 8th 
No. of the ‘Alpine Journal.’ Ascending 
by W. side of the Cedeh Glacier, and 
the snow-slopes descending from the 
peak, they struck the SE. arete about 
1.000 ft. below the top. Though steep, 
the remainder of the way presented no 
serious obstacle, except from the vio¬ 
lence of the wind, which allowed them 
to remain but a few minutes at the top. 
In descending they followed the SE. 
arete to a point lower down than that 
at which they first struck it, till they 
reached a well-marked notch in the 
ridge, which Mr. Tuckett has called 
Konigs Joch. From thence the descent 
to the Sulden Glacier was over crumb¬ 
ling rocks of dolomite, dangerously 
loose and steep. It cannot be recom¬ 
mended as a way to Sulden. It is far 
better to descend to the plateau of the 
Cevedale Pass, and cross by the Jaui- 
ger Scharte (see above). Since Mr. 
I'uckett’s ascent the peak has been at¬ 
tained several times. 

The first ascent of the Monte Ceve¬ 
dale (12,505') was made by M. Von Moj- 
sisovics in 1864, with Janigeras guide. 


7 . ORTELER DISTRICT. 

In a violent storm he attained with 
difficulty the E. peak. This is surpassed 
by the SW. p«ak, reached in 1866 
by Messrs. Tuckett and F. Browne. 
Having ascended to the Vedretta di 
Tschengels, an affluent of the Forno 
Glacier, this was traversed, and they 
climbed the ridge connecting the Ceve¬ 
dale with the Pallon della Mare to a 
depression some way S. of its lowest 
point. Thence there is no difficulty in 
descending eastward to Val della Mare, 
either by the Vedretta Rossa, or the V. 
della Mare. First turning S., the tra¬ 
vellers reached the summit of the Pal¬ 
lon della Mare (12,038'), then returning, 
and traversed the long ridge leading to 
the Cevedale. The ridge in question 
may be passed at various points. The 
easiest way (Passo della Fornaccia of 
Tuckett) is apparently the Passo della 
Mare of Lt. Payer’s map, 11,148 ft. in 
height. 


Route D. 

GLACIER PASSES FROM SANTA CATA¬ 
RINA TO PRAD. 

The activity of the mountaineers 
named in the last Rte. has opened out 
several new and tolerably direct ways 
from Val Furva to the Stilfserthal 
(Rte. A), without reporting to the high 
road. None of these should be under¬ 
taken without efficient guides. 

1. By the Madatsch Joch (10,750'?). 
This way is by the snow col between 
the Monte Cristallo and the Southern 
Madatsch Spitze. It was approaches 
from the W. by Mr. Tuckett and hi 
companions in 1864, by the Val di Vi 
telli (Kte. A), and the great Vedretta 
di Vitelli, which fills the head of the 
glen ; but it can be attained in less 
time from the summit of the Stelvio 
Pass by a traveller who has slept at 
Sta. Maria, or even at Trafoi. Th» 
descent to the Val di Zebru is steep 





ROUTE D.—THE 

bat does not seem to be very difficult. 
The shortest course is doubtless to de¬ 
scend directly into the last-named val* 

V 

ley, and to reach Sta. Catarina by the 
road from S. Gottardo (Itte. B). A 
more interesting way was selected by 
Mr. Tuckett’s party. Instead of descend¬ 
ing the glacier (named by Mr. Tuckett 
Vedretta di Cristallo ), they crossed it in 
a direction but little S. of E., and cross¬ 
ing a low ridge struck upon another 
small glacier, intermediate between the 
-list and the more considerable Zebru 
Glacier , covering the S. slopes of the 
Kl. Zebru. They then descended dia¬ 
gonally, reached the vast slopes of 
debris that overhang the Val di Zebru, 
crossed these nearly at a level, tra¬ 
versed the narrow icy tongue of the 
Zebru Glacier, and finally, by a gradual 
ascent, reached the lowest point in the 
ridge connecting the Monte Confinale 
with the Konigs Sp. This pass, con¬ 
necting Val di Zebru with Val di Forno, 
is called by Mr. Tuckett Passo di 
Zebru (9,700'?). It was reached in 5 
hrs. from the Madatsch Joch, and in 
2f hrs. more Sta. Catarina was reached 
by the Val Forno. 

2. By the Trafoier Joch. In 1867 
Messrs. Tuckett and E. Howard, after 
finding good night-quarters at the first 
chalets above Prato Beghino in Val di 
Zebru, ascended towards the rt. bank 
of the glacier that lies on the S. slope 
of the Thurwieser Sp., and then bore 
somewhat to the 1. Attempting to 
cross a rocky ridge on the W. of 
their course, they lost 2 hrs., and had to 
return and mount to a snow sattel above 
this ridge. The way then lay some 
way over neve in the direction of the 
Madatsch Joch, till, bearing to the rt., 
they reached the col between the Schnee 
Glocke and the Madatsch Sp. This was 
named Trafoier Joch (about 10,800'). 
The top of the Schnee Glocke, pre¬ 
viously reached by Lt. Payer, was at¬ 
tained, and they returned to the pass. 
The descent, which might be difficult 
at a later season, was made by a series 
of glissades, till, skirting the slopes of 
the N. Madatsch Sp., they reached the 


ORTELER JOCH. 433 

lower part of the Madatsch Glacier and 
the Stelvio road. 

3. By the Orteler Joch (11,000'?). 
This pass lies over the broad col be¬ 
tween the Thurwieser Sp. and the Kl. 
Zebru. This is easy of access from the 
Val di Zebru, but very difficult on the 
N. side towards Trafoi. It was tra¬ 
versed from that side in 1865 by 
Messrs. Tuckett, Freshfield, Fox, and 
Backhouse, with Franyois Devouassoud 
and Peter Michel. The ascent was 
commenced by the very steep rocks of 
the Ziegerpalfen, after which the Lower 
Trafoi Glacier was crossed to some 
slopes of debris beneath the cliffs of 
the Orteler Sp. After some time it was 
necessary to return to the ice, and force 
a way through huge broken seracs till 
the upper neve was attained. One hr. 
more, ending with a short but steep 
climb up a snow wall, took them to the 
top of the pass in 7£ hrs. from Trafoi. 
On the rt. hand rises a snow summit, 
which is an eastern offshoot from the 
Thurwieser Sp., and on the 1. the ridge 
connecting the Orteler Sp. with the Kl. 
Zebru. Time did not allow the ascent 
of the latter peak ; but the party 
mounted about 500 ft. to the lowest 
point in the ridge connecting it with 
the Orteler Sp. 

Bearing to the rt. from the pass, the 
travellers reached the rt. lateral mo¬ 
raine of the Zebru Glacier in 1^ hr., 
and continued the descent to Val di 
Zebru by steep slopes, reaching S. 
Gottardo, at the junction of that glen 
with Val Furva, in 3^ hrs. from the 
summit. 

Mr. Tuckett thinks that time would 
be saved by making the first part of 
the ascent by the E. side of the Lower 
Trafoi Glacier, by the same course 
that was taken in some of the earlier 
ascents of the Orteler Sp. Until it is 
better known, this pass should be at¬ 
tempted only from the side of Trafoi or 
Sulden. 

3. By the Sulden Glacier. It will be 
inferred from the description of the 
Passo Cevedale in Rte. C that it affords 
the most direct and easiest glacier route 




434 


RJLETIAN ALPS. § 37 . ORTELER DISTRICT. 


from Sta. Catarina to the Suldenthal. 
From the summit of that pass (4^- hrs. 
from Sta. Catarina) easy slopes of neve 
(not on that account to be traversed 
without a rope) lead to the Janiger 
Scharte, a ridge E. of the Sulden Spitze 
(11,109'), dividing the neve of the 
Langenferner from the head of the Sul¬ 
den Glacier. The descent towards the 
latter is rather steep, and may some¬ 
times require the ice-axe. For a notice 
of the Sulden Gl. see Rte. F. The vil¬ 
lage of St. Gertrud is reached in 3^ 
hrs., exclusive of halts, from the Passo 
Cevedale. 

In 1866 Messrs. J. D. Finney and 
F. A. Lewin ascended from Sulden to 
the ridge already reached by Mr. 
Tuckett, connecting the Orteler Sp. 
with the Kl. Zebru, thus proving that 
the Orteler Joch may be taken from 
Sulden as well as from Trafoi. But 
the ascent cost nearly 5 hrs. of step¬ 
cutting in hard ice. The same party 
made the second ascent of the Kl. 
Zebru, and reached Sta. Catarina in 16 
hrs. from Sulden. 


Route E. 

LAAS TO SULDEN, BY THE LAASERTHAL. 

The Laaserthal is a short valley, en¬ 
closed by an irregular group of high 
peaks, that separate it on one side from 
the Martellthal, and on the other from 
the Suldenthal. For some notes respect¬ 
ing it, the editor is much indebted to M. 
von Mojsisovics, one of the most active 
explorers of this district. The valley 
seems to offer a choice of several fine 
passes leading to Sulden, and com¬ 
manding grand views of the Orteler Sp. 
and the range enclosing the Sulden 
Glacier. 

The Laaserthal opens opposite to the 
village of Laas in the Yintschgau 
(§ 48). It contains no permanent 
dwellings, but the upper end is fre¬ 
quented in summer by herdsmen. 
Mounting steeply by the 1. bank of the 
Laaserbach, the track enters the valley, 


which for a considerable distance is a 
mere barren ravine. In 2| hours the 
pastures of the Laaseralm are reached. 
These lie but a short distance from the 
foot of the Laaserthal-ferner , a very fine 
glacier that flows northward into the 
head of the valley. The most inte¬ 
resting way to Sulden is probably that 
by the NW. branch of the valley. For 
some way a path runs through this 
desolate glen, filled with huge blocks 
of gneiss, till, after ascending 1 h. the 
way turns sharply to the 1., and a stiff 
climb over steep rocky slopes leads to 
the Ofenwand Scharte, a depression m 
the range of the Hochofenwand. The 
highest point, 11,558 ft. above the 
sea, lies some way to the S., and is 
separated from the pass by the Angelus 
Spitze (10,982'). On the W. side the 
descent is by the rt bank of the Zai- 
ferner, and the Zaithal, a short glen 
leading to Sulden in 5 hrs. from the 
Laaseralm. The ridge seen to the rt. 
from the summit of the pass is the 
Tschengelser Hochwand, of which the 
highest point is the Kompatsch( 11,065'). 

The other, rather longer, way from 
the Laaserthal to Sulden mounts by the 
rocks on the rt. bank of the Laaserthal- 
ferner to the upper plateau of that gla¬ 
cier, which leads to the Laaserthal Joch. 
This lies between the Vertrain Sp. 
(11,371') and the Mittlere Peder Sp. 
(11,349'). The former, which must 
command a very extensive view, may 
best be ascended from the pass. The 
descent to Sulden lies over the Rosim- 
femer, a glacier filling the head of the 
Rosimthal, a tributary of the Suldenthal. 
The ice must be left on the rt. bank 
above the lower ice-fall, and the slopes 
of the Vorder Vertrain Sp. descended 
to the main valley, which is reached 
near to St. Gertrud. 

Several passes connect the Laaserthal 
with the Martellthal. By bearing to 
the 1. from the Laaserferner Joch it is 
possible to reach the Peder Joch, be¬ 
tween the Mittlere and Innere Peder- 
spitze, and so descend by the Pederthal 
to the upper end of the Martellthal. 

Another way mounts eastward from 




KOUTE F.—SAENT PASS. 


435 


the Laaseralm, and crosses the Schluder 
Scharte, descending into Martell be¬ 
tween the Orgelspitze and Rosskopf. 
The Martellthal is reached at a point 
between Maria Schmelz and Gond in 
G hrs. from the Laaseralm. 

The Orgelspitze, commanding one of 
the finest views in this district, is easily 
reached from the summit of the Schlu- 
der Scharte, or directly from Thai in 
the Martellthal. 


Route F. 

WALE TO TRAFOI, BY THE SULDEN- 
THAL. 

One of the finest lateral valleys of 
the Val di Sole is that of Rabbi, and it 
is rendered more easy of access than 
the others owing to the existence of a 
strong chalybeate spring, which an¬ 
nually draws a large number of Italian 
and German visitors. By this, or by 
the Val della Mare, noticed in Rte. B, 
the mountaineer may follow an inte¬ 
resting route to the fine valleys of Mar¬ 
tell and Sulden by the glaciers that 
extend almost continuously between 
the upper extremities of these four 
vallevs. 

The chief difficulty arises from the 
want of competent guides. Janiger 
of the Martellthal, mentioned in Rte C, 
knows thoroughly the glaciers of Mar¬ 
tell and Sulden, but probably not those 
of Val di Rabbi and Val della Mare. 
D. Veneri and Binder of Cogolo, and 
a man named Kuens, at Vermiglio. 
are said to have some acquaintance 
with the glaciers at the head of ^ al di 
Sole, but in Val di Rabbi there is no 


tolerable guide known to the writer. 
A man who undertook that calling in 
1860 completely lost his way, and 
showed himself utterly incompetent in 
all respects. In fine weather local 
knowledge is of secondary importance; 
but when the clouds lie low, it can 
with difficulty be dispensed with. The 
writer has little doubt but that the 
distance from Rabbi to Sulden can be 
accomplished in one long day, and the 
way from Pejo to Sulden would be 
easier in good weather. It is a more 
advisable course to sleep at some of the 
chalets in the upper Martellthal, leaving 
time to enjoy the fine scenery. As the 
way by Rabbi is probably the more in¬ 
teresting, it is that first described here. 

1. By JRabbi, and the Saent Pass 
(9,954'). The Val di Rabbi joins the 
Val di Sole a short way below Male 
(Rte B), and a tolerable but rough 
char-road has been carried along the 
1. bank of the torrent. For the pedes¬ 
trian there is a rather shorter and more 
shaded way by a path that mounts 
steeply on the rt. bank of the Rabbies 
torrent, and finally crosses to the 1. 
bank nearly 2 hrs. from Male. The 
valley is a narrow glen, and the scenery 
wild rather than grand, as the higher 
peaks do not come into view. The as¬ 
cent is in places rather steep, till the 
traveller attains S. Bernardo, the prin¬ 
cipal village. A little farther he 
crosses to the rt. bank, and in about 3 
hrs. from Male reaches Rabbi (4,035'), a 
village composed of inns, standing on 
level ground on either side of the 
Rabbies torrent. The accommodation 
is rather primitive, and even in the 
two principal inns (Al Fonte and Pa¬ 
lazzo), the rooms are very rough, and 
the beds, though clean, far from com¬ 
fortable. The first-named is con¬ 
sidered the best inn. Dinner is served 
at noon, and supper about sunset: for 
these meals, and a small bed-room, the 
daily charge is 3 florins in paper money, 
equal to about 5 shillings—a rate con- 
' sidered high in the Tyrol. The people 
of the house and adjoining cafe are 
very civil, and make no objection to 


F F 2 







430 RILETIAN ALPS. § 

getting up and preparing breakfast for 
mountaineers at 3 a.m. Though the 
position is by no means equal to Sta. 
Catarina or Trafoi, this place may well 
serve as head-quarters for exploring 
the neighbouring peaks and glaciers. 
[There is a way to Pejo over the Passo 
di Cercen (8,616'), traversed by Mr. T. 
Rutt in 1864. The summit, reached 
through a glen opening WSW. of Rabbi 
in 4 hrs., commands a very grand view. 
2.V hrs. suffice for the descent to Cogolo, 
£ hr. from the Baths of Pejo.] Near 
Rabbi the botanist may gather Pri¬ 
mula lungijioia, Thalicti um foetid um, 
and other rare plants. The upper 
part of Yal di Rabbi consists of four 
successive steps, each lying nearly 
level, and separated from the next 
by a very steep barrier of rock. The 
ascent is in a NNW. direction ; but 
towards the head of the valley the 
main branch bends first to NW., 
then nearly due W. The only way to 
reach the Suldenthal from Kabbi is by 
crossing the head of the Martellthal, 
and the only known pass lies consider¬ 
ably- E. of the Venezia Spitze, or Rizzo 
Venezia (11,095'), one of the boldest 
peaks of this group, though surpassed 
in height by several others. 

On approaching the head of the val¬ 
ley—locally called Saent—the traveller 
should follow a course nearly due N., 
passing near to a bold summit which is 
a northern outlyer from the Eggen 
Spitze (11,263'). The latter, which is 
the highest of the peaks enclosing the 
Val di Rabbi, lies someway S. of the 
pass, and separates Saent from the 
upper end of the Ultenthal. The 
Saent Pass, also called Gramsen Joch, 
commands a very fine view of the sur¬ 
rounding Alps; and this may he further 
extended by ascending the Hintere 
Rothspitze (10,532'). From that sum¬ 
mit it is also possible to reach Val 
della Mare by the ' edretta di Venezia. 
In about 6 hrs.’ steady walking from 
Rabbi, exclusive of halts, the Martell¬ 
thal is reached about halfway between 
the Cevalhiitten and Maria Schmelz 
CUte. 0). 


7. ORTELER DISTRICT. 

To reach the Suldenthal from the 
head of the Martellthal, the traveller 
has a choice between three passes, of 
which two are quite easy. These are 
approached by a short lateral glen, 
called Madritschthal, which opens nearly 
opposite the shepherds’ huts known as 
Cevalhiitten. The path is nearly level 
till it reaches a transverse mound (an¬ 
cient moraine?) that stretches across 
the glen. Above this, at the head of 
the valley, are seen three slopes of 
neve, or incipient glaciers, of which the 
central one leads to the Madritsch Joch 
(10,252' . This lies between the Ma¬ 
dritsch Spitze to the 1., and the Schon - 
tauf Spitze (10,893') to the rt., and is 
reached in 2 hrs. from Ceval. It com¬ 
mands an extremely favourable view of 
the Orteler, Kl. Zebru, and Konigs 
Sp., which rise very grandly above the 
wide expanse of the Sulden Glacier. 
In the opposite direction the peaks of 
the Zufrid range are also well seen. A 
rather steep descent leads down to the 
SuldenJ'erner, the great glacier that en¬ 
closes for a space of several miles the 
head of the Suldenthal. It is formed 
by the welding together of a number 
of comparatively short ice-streams that 
descend from the flanks of the range 
connecting the Orteler Sp. with the 
Madritsch Sp. The consequence is, 
that its breadth is at least three times 
as great as its utmost length, which 
may be measured from the foot of the 
Konigs Sp. to the lowest point that it 
reaches in the Sulden valley. The re¬ 
sult of this peculiar formation is that 
a season that would occasion a slight 
increase iu an ordinary glacier, here 
produce a multiplied effect, inasmuch 
as the extra flow from each separate 
portion is accumulated nearly at a 
single point. In tact this glacier is 
famous for its extraordinary vicissi¬ 
tudes, for which an unsatisfactory ex¬ 
planation was suggested in the first 
edition of this work. 

Keeping somewhat to the rt., the 
traveller quits the glacier and reaches 
the Gampenbof. This is a small group 
of houses, lying in the fork between 






ROUTE F.-1IOHENFERNER JOCH. 


437 


the main stream of the Suldenbach 
and that issuing from the Rosimthal, a 
lateral glen originating on the W. side 
of the Peder Spitze. For about | m. 
above the Gampenhof, the torrent from 
the Sulden Glacier flows through a 
gorge whose slopes on either side are 
bare of vegetation. Through this 
space the glacier advanced very rapidly 
in 1817, halting only when within 
50 yards of the Gampenhof. Old 
larches and arollas, as well as the her¬ 
baceous vegetation, were swept away, 
leaving the soil covered with glacier 
mud and moraine debris. Since that 
year the glacier has gradually retired. 
In 1855, Prof. Simony found that 
masses of old glacier ice, preserved from 
melting by the overlying debris, lay 
far below the present termination of 
the glacier, and still served in one 
place to bridge over the torrent. A 
level path through meadows along the 
1. bank of the main stream, leads in 
T hr. from Gampenhof to St. Gertrud 
(6,057'), the only village in the valley 
—not to be confounded with that of the 
same name in the UlteDthal (RteG). 
An inn has lately been opened, but 
better quarters are, perhaps, afforded 
by the parish priest, whose house 
stands near the church. This place is 
reached in 4^ hrs. from the Ceval- 
hiitten. 

The name Sulden Jock has been 
often given to the pass above described, 
between the Schbntauf Sp. and the Ma- 
dritsch bp., but properly belongs to 
another pass lying on the NE. side of 
the first-named summit, between it 
and the Innere Peder Sp. (10,7 68'). It is 
approached through the Madritschthal, 
and is of about the same height and 
length as the Madritsch Joch; but 
the view is inferior. From the summit 
of either pass, the Schontauf Spitze 
(10,893') is easily climbed in ^ hr., and 
rewards the slight effort by a magni¬ 
ficent panoramic view. 

Somewhat longer, and decidedly more 
difficult, than either of the above named 
passes, is the Peder Joch, between the 
Innere Peder Sp. and the Platten Sp., 


approached through the Pederthal, 
which opens into the Martellthal about 
1 hr. lower down than the Madritsch¬ 
thal. Keeping well to the 1., or about 
due W., the traveller descends into the 
Rosimthal , which joins the Suldenthal 
at Gampenhof. As mentioned in Rte. 
E, a course about due N. from the 
Peder Joch will lead the traveller by 
the Laaserferner Joch to the head of 
the Laaserthal. 

2. By the Val della Mare. The 
existence of a pass from the Val della 
Mare to the Martellthal has been long 
known to the natives, and is affirmed 
by the Austrian Map of Tyrol, but no 
authentic information on the subject was 
available until the Jahrbuch for 1865 
of the Austrian Alpine Club contained 
an account of the pass in question by 
Lt.-Col. Bauer, who took as guides two 
incompetent men named Binder, of 
i Oogolo. The pass is called Hohenferner 
Joch, or in Italian, Passo della Vedretta 
Alta, and is 9,904 ft. in height. The 
more easterly and easier pass, mentioned 
below, is higher by 608 ft. 

Starting from Pelizzano in Val di 
Sole (Rte. B),the traveller follows the 
char-road along the rt. bank, till some 
way beyond Cusiano he crosses to the 
1. bank of the Nos, where a tolerable 
road leads him up to Cogulo, a small 
village with a rough inn, just below 
the junction of Val della Mare with 
the Val del Monte, reached in 2 hrs. 
from Pelizzano. Crossing the branch 
of the Nos, issuing from the former 
valley, the way lies about due N., 
keeping to a rough cart-road that leads 
to a saw-mill erected at the junction of 
a glacier torrent from the Vios Spitze, 
that descends through a lateral glen 
called Vallenaja. 

The Val della Mare is one of the 
wildest and most savage glens in this 
part of the Alps, completely enclosed 
by the snowy range that extends from 
the Vios Sp. to the Venezia Sp. As 
the traveller ascends, the snow pass 
between the Cevedale and the last- 
named peak, over which lies the way 
to Martell, is constantly in view. Be- 







438 


RILETIAN ALPS. § 3 

yond the saw-mill the ground is to a 
great extent covered with debris, until 
the highest of the successive steps 
forming the floor of the valley is at¬ 
tained. Here the three torrents that 
join to make up this branch of the Nos 
unite their waters. Lieut.-Col. Bauer 
was led by his guides along the west¬ 
ernmost of these streams, but he rightly 
points out that the course indicated on 
the Government Map, which follows the 
central stream, should be preferred. 
The ascent does not seem troublesome, 
and there are no glacier difficulties to 
contend with. A far preferable course 
to that indicated in the Jahrbuch, is to 
bear to the rt., towards the W. shoulder 
of the Venezia Sp., passing between 
two stone men erected on the summit 
of the ridge. From this point the Ve¬ 
nezia Spilze (11,095') may be climbed 
in f hr. Even from the col the view 
is very grand. The descent on the 
Martell side is over the eastern affluent 
of the Hohenferner , and by that way no 
difficulty worthy of notice is encoun¬ 
tered. The main portion of this gla¬ 
cier, after descending for some distance 
with a gentle slope towards the head 
of the Martellthal, sinks in steep and 
broken terraces of ice by no means 
easy to traverse. The Cevalhutten are 
reached by this pass in 6 hrs., exclusive 
of halts, from Cogolo. From thence the 
way to Sulden is that already described. 

Having reached St. Gertrud by some 
combination of the above mentioned 
passes, the traveller pressed for time 
may leave on his rt. hand the bridge 
at St. Gertrud, and follow the path 
along the 1. bank. The valley contracts 
gradually as the descent becomes 
steeper ; the path passes to the rt. 
bank, and in about 2 hrs. from St. Ger¬ 
trud (or 2^ hrs. when ascending the val - 
ley),reaches Gomagoi, on the highroad 
between Prad and Trafoi (Rte. A). 

The traveller will, however, do 
wisely to give a day to the noble 
scenery of the Sulden valley, which 
rivals, without much resembling, that 
of the adjoining valley of Trafoi. 
Going direct from St. Gertrud towards 


7 . ORTELER DISTRICT. 

the base of the Orteler Sp., he will 
reach the spot at the base of its gigantic 
precipices that has received the local 
name ‘ End der Welt .’ This has been 
erroneously attributed, on many maps, 
to the upper part of the Sulden Gla¬ 
cier, where the name becomes un¬ 
meaning. 

The reader will observe that many 
statements made in this and the fore¬ 
going Rtes. are inconsistent with the 
published maps, and even on some 
points with that of Mr. Tuckett in the 
8th number of the Alpine Journal, 
the fact being that no existing map 
represents the form of the mountains 
accurately, and that the utmost con¬ 
fusion has pi’evailed as to the correct 
nomenclature. One source of nume¬ 
rous errors arises from the resemblance 
of the Sulden Sp., a snow cone seen at 
the SE. end of the Sulden Glacier, to 
the much higher but more distant 
Monte Cevedale. From a corruption 
of the latter name arose the designa¬ 
tion Zufall Spitze, which has been 
attributed by turns to one or other 
of the peaks at the head of the 
Martellthal. 

« Mr. Tuckett has indica ed a very fine 
high-level route from Pejo to Sulden, 
certainly easier, in favourable weather, 
than that here mentioned. The \ edret a 
della Mare reaches up to the depression 
(about 12,200') between the two peaks 
of the Cevedale; descending thence, 
gentle slopes of neve lead to the Jani- 
ger Scharte (Rte. D), and so to the 
Suldenthal. 


Route G. 

RABBI TO BIER AN, BY THE ULTEN 
THAL. 



Hrs.' 

Eng. 


walking 

miles 

St. Gertrud 

5 

04 

Miiterbad . 

4 

12 

St. Pankraz 

. H 

4| 

Meran 

. 3* 

m 


14 

39§ 


Nearly parallel to the Martellthal, 
described in Rte. C, is the Ultenthul, a 
still longer and more important valley, 





ROUTE G. — ULTENTHAL. 


439 


whose junction with the Yintschgau is 
a little below Meran. The ridge sepa¬ 
rating them appears to be a NW. pro¬ 
longation of the high chain extending 
from the Corno dei Tre Signori to the 
Venezia Spitze and Eggen Spitze at 
the head of Val di Rabbi. The scenery 
is not equal to that of the Martellthal, 
but it is far more accessible, and the 
valley may well be taken by a mode¬ 
rate walker in the way between Rabbi 
and Meran. The upper end of the 
Ultenthal is chiefly composed of mica- 
schist; but porphyry and granite are 
seen in several places as the traveller 
descends the valley. The best accom¬ 
modation on the way is at the Baths of 
Mitterbad; but very fair quarters are, 
or were, found at Kuppelwiese, within 
7 j hrs. ? steady walking from Rabbi. 

There are many passes by which it 
is possible to reach the Ultenthal from 
the Val di Rabbi or Val di Sole. The 
most interesting of these, and the most 
direct from Rabbi, is by the Kirchberger 
Jock (8,134'), nearly due N. of that 
place. At the summit the path 
traverses a cleft on the E. side of the 
Pizzo Sassfora. The torrent which has 
been followed during the ascent, issues 
from the Corvo See, a lake lying 
on a plateau N. of the range dividing 
the valleys of Ulten and Rabbi; but in¬ 
stead of being drained in what appears 
the natural course towards the Ulten¬ 
thal, the waters escape in the opposite 
direction through the cleft. The de¬ 
scent from the lake lies NE., through 
a branch of the Ulten valley called 
Kirchbergerthal, opening close to the 
highest village, St. Gertrud (Inn, poor), 
4,949 ft. above the sea. 

[Two fine passes lead from St. Ger¬ 
trud to the upper part of the Martell¬ 
thal, to both of which the name Soy- 
jOch has been vaguely given. This is 
especially inappropriate to the south¬ 
ernmost pass, properly called Zufrid 
Jock (9,905') which traverses the ridge 
SW. of the Zufrid Spitze (11,262'). 
This peak may be ascended from the 
summit of the pass. The way to it 
lies through a lateral glen—Zufridthal 


—"WSW. of St. Gertrud, leading to 
the Zufridferner , over which glacier 
lies the descent to the Marteller Aim. 
The other pass, which is lower, and 
equally interesting, is by the Bilsberg 
Jcch (9,360'). This lies on the NE. 
side of the Zufrid Sp. On the Ulten 
side the botanist may gather the very 
rare CarexVahlii. The faintly marked 
track on the Martell side leads to Gond, 
1 hr. above Salt (Rte C.).] 

The most interesting excursion from 
the head of the Ultenthal is the ascent 
of the Bygen Spitze (11,263'), whose 
highest peak is reached in 7 hrs. from 
St. Gertrud. As it exceeds in height 
all the neighbouring summits, it natu¬ 
rally commands an unbroken pano¬ 
ramic view of great extent. 

The descent from St. Gertrud is bv 

%/ 

a somewhat beaten track, as during the 
summer season there is frequent pas¬ 
sage between Rabbi and Mitterbad. 
Many of the patients using the baths 
at the latter place are recommended to 
drink the waters of Rabbi, which are 
bottled and carried across the pass on 
men’s backs. About I 5 - hr. below St. 
Gertrud is St. Nicolaus , where a track 
to Val di Non mounts SSE. through 
the Neinerthal. Kuppelwiese, where 
there is, or was, a fair mountain inn, 
is about f hr. below St. Nicolaus. This 
is said to be the most picturesque posi¬ 
tion in the valley, and is conveniently 
situated for the ascent of the Hasenuhr 
(10,673'). [Unlike most of the moun¬ 
tains of this district, this overlooks a 
considerable reach of the fertile and 
thickly peopled valley of the Adige, 
presenting a striking contrast to the 
great snowy ranges that rise to the N. 
and SW. The way lies by a sheep 
pasture called Wolfsgrube, and the sum¬ 
mit is easily reached in 5| hrs. As the 
peak is at least equally accessible from 
the Martell side, it may be taken on 
the way from Kuppelwiese to Salt.] 
The torrent, descending from the N., 
issues from the Kuppelwieserthal, 
through which lies a track to Latsch 
in the Vintschgau. Below Kuppel¬ 
wiese there is a choice of paths. The 





442 


RHJ2TIAN ALPS. § 37. ORTELER DISTRICT. 


A much more interesting way than 
that by the Gampen may be taken from 
Cles to Kaltern, in the valley of the 
Adige below Botzen. This lies through 
the Val Romedio, opening about due E. 
of Cles, the lower end being a gorge 
enclosed by steep limestone rocks. It 
is formed by the union of two branches : 
the one mounting to NE. is called Val 
Rufredo ; the other, SE. branch, is Val 
Verde. In the angle between them, 
perched on rocks so steep as to be 
scarcely accessible, is the Hermitage of 
San Romedio. This is a most curious 
building, containing five chapels stand¬ 
ing one over the other, the highest of 
them commanding a singular view into 
the giddy depths below. There is a 
little inn at the foot of the tower, where 
some refreshment is found. 

Following the NE. branch of the 
•valley, the traveller passes Amblar , 
whence may be made the ascent of 
Monte Roen (6,919'), the highest point 
of the Mendola range, and reaches 
Rufredo, the last village. This is f hr. 
below the pass of Mendelscharte (4,9 64'), 
whence it is easy to descend to Kaltern; 
but the shorter way to Botzen would 
probably be to bear to the 1. tow r ards 
Eppan. 

The valley of the Adige between 
Botzen and Verona is described in 
§ 57. 


Route K. 

BORMIO TO SANTA MARIA. 

Having in the preceding Rtes. given 
some account of the principal valleys 
of the Orteler Alps, it is now necessary 
to notice briefly the ranges on the N. 
side of the Stelvio Pass, lying between 
the main road described in Rte. A and 
the Lower Engadine. These ranges 
lie partly in Switzerland, and partly in 
Tyrol; but the boundary is in great 
part purely arbitrary, though in the 
main it beeps to the natural rule which 
would give the tributaries of the Enga¬ 
dine to Switzerland, and those of the 
Vintschgau to Tyrol. The chief ex¬ 
ception to this rule is in regard to the 
valley of the Rammbach, a consider¬ 
able torrent that joins the Etsch, or 
Upper Adige, near Glurns. The greater 
part of the valley in question belongs 
to Switzerland, and above the dividing 
line it is called in the local Romantsch 
dialect, Val Mustair —Germ. Miinster- 
thal. The valley is described in the 
next Rte., and we here merely notice 
the passes by which the principal vil« 
lage—Munster—may be reached from 
Bormio, the natural centre of this 
district. 

1 . By the Umbrail Pass, or Wormaer 
Jock. It was mentioned in Rte. A, that 
the summit of this pass lies but a few 
ft. above the post-house, or Cantoniera, 
of Sta. Maria on the Stelvio road, and 
that it affords the natural line of con¬ 
nection between the head of the valley 
of the Adda and the upper end of the 
\ intsehgau. The summit of the pass 
is 8,342 ft. above the sea. It over¬ 
looks a short glen called Val Muranza, 
through which a torrent flows nearly 
due N. to join the Rammbach. The 
track, which is well marked and pass¬ 
able for beasts of burden, descends at 
first by rather steep zigzags, then fol¬ 
lows the course of the torrent for about 
1 hr., and finally descends on its right 
bank by a rather rapid declivity to 
Santa Maria (4,519 ), noticed in Rte.L. 





ROUTE K.—VAL FRAELE. 


443 


2 . By Val Fraele. In ascending 
towards the Stelvio Pass, a torrent is 
seen to break out from a narrow cleft 
on the 1. of the high road about 1 m. 
above the Baths of Bonnie. This, 
which is usually considered to be the 
main stream of the Adda, descends 
ESE. from a highland valley called 
Val Fraele. The gorge through which 
the stream issues to join the Braulio 
torrent is impassable, but a rather steep 
sledge-track, used to bring down iron 
ore, mounts the slopes, and leads to the 
upper part of the valley. Most persons 
bound from Bormio to Val Fraele pre¬ 
fer an easier way by the Val di Dentro 
.§ 36, Rte. L). Soon after crossing the 
Adda by the bridge at the iron-works 
below the Baths of Bormio, the traveller 
finds a tolerably good cart-track, which 
mounts gradually till in 1 hr. from the 
Baths it reaches a hollow, whence a 
short but rather steep ascent leads to 
the Pass of Le Scale (6,516'). The 
greater part of the surface of this broad 
and deep depression is occupied by a 
picturesque little lake. The cart-track 
passes above its N. shore and leads by 
an easy descent to the middle part of 
Val Fraele. This shows a considerable 
tract of alpine pasture, inhabited only 
in summer by a few herdsmen. Its upper 
end is connected by no less than three 
passes with as many tributaries of the 
Spol. one of the chief affluents of the Inn. 

One of these passes, leading to Tre- 
palle and Livigno, is reached by turn¬ 
ing abruptly to the 1., or nearly due 
SW., through a glen called Val Gettino, 
and then bearing W. over a depression 
leading directly to the former village. 

The second pass lies due W. of the ora¬ 
tory of San Giacomo, nearly at the head 
of Val Fraele. After passing a small 
pool or tarn, called the source of the 
Adda, a very slight ascent leads over 
the ridge to another similar pool that is 
drained in the opposite direction. A 
path above the rt. bank leads thence 
down to the junction of Val di Trepalle 
with Val Livigno (see § 36, Rte. M). 

The third pass, 6,431 ft. in height, is 
the lowest but one between the basin of 


the Adda and that of the Inn. The 
path mounts NW. from S. Giacomo over 
a low grassy ridge, and then descends no 
less gently to the Bruna torrent which 
flows NNW. into the Spol at the point 
where it enters Swiss territory. 

The way from Val Fraele to Val 
Mustair is over the last-mentioned pass: 
but instead of descending along the 1. 
bank towards the Spol, the traveller 
must keep to the rt., and ascend along 
a tributary stream which joins the 
Bruna at a very acute angle. The 
way lies through Val Mora, a glen 
lying in Swiss territory. Mounting 
slightly along the 1. bank in a direction 
but little E. of N., after 1 hr. the path 
crosses to the rt. bank of the torrent, 
and bends gradually to the E. Before 
long the glen opens out to ESE., and 
the traveller sees before him a high¬ 
land pastoral valley, parallel to the Val 
Fraele, and bearing the same name. 
This, which for the sake of distinction 
we shall call the Swiss Val Fraele, is 
more alpine in character, and the level 
is rather higher. The principal chalets, 
called Munster Alpen, stand at 7,001 ft. 
above the sea. A very gradual ascent 
from these chalets to the pass of Boss- 
rotond (7,249') leads into one of the 
branches of Val Mustair. It will be 
seen on the map that the pass of Doss- 
rotond lies due N., and but 44 m. dis¬ 
tant in a straight line from the lower 
end of the Italian Val Fraele, and that 
the long circuit made in following the 
route here described has been effected 
in order to pass round the range of 
high peaks whose principal summits 
are Piz Murterol (10,423') and Piz 
Ciambraida (10,246'). A rather rapid 
descent leads from the Dossrotond Pass 
to the main valley of the Rammbach, 
which is reached between the adjoining 
villages of Valcava and Santa Maria, 
about \ m. from the latter place. 

3. By the Passo dei Pastori. Instead of 
making a wide detour, the mountaineer 
may take a nearly direct course from 
the lower end of Val Fraele to Santa 
Maria. A little above the gorge 
through which the Adda issues from 




414 


RHJETIAN ALPS. 


§3 

Yal Fraele, it is joined by a torrent 
that descends from the N. through an 
alpine glen called Val Forcola. To 
reach this from Bormio, the traveller 
must follow the sledge-track mentioned 
above, that mounts on the N. side of 
the gorge of Val Fraele, and then de¬ 
scend a little to cross the torrent from 
Val Forcola before attempting to ascend 
into that wild glen. The Val Forcola 
passes under the W. side of Monte 
Braulio, and leads to a high pass in 
the ridge connecting Piz Umbrail with 
Piz Ciumbraida. The measurement, 
2,860 metres —9,383 ft ,indica'ed on the 
Swiss Federal map, perhaps refers to 
a point some way above the pass, but 
its height probably exceeds 9,000 ft. 
The descent on the N. side is by a 
rather large tarn, called Lai da Rims 
(7,848'), and joins the track from Val 
Fraele, described above, about half-way 
between Dossrotond and Sta. Maria. 


Route L. 

ZERNETZ TO MALS, BY THE OFEN 
PASS AND VAL MU ST AIR. 

Rough road, io great part passable for light 
cars. About 101 Swiss leagues. 

This is one of the easiest passes over 
the main chain of the Alps, leading, as 
it does, from the Inn to the Adige; but 
it is very little frequented by strangers. 


7 . OPTELER DISTRICT. 

A moderate outlay would make the 
road fit for light carriages throughout, 
and the projected improvements will 
probably soon be effected. The upper 
part of the pass is somewhat monoto¬ 
nous ; but there is fine scenery on the 
way to it, and many objects of interest 
in its vicinity. 

It has been said in § 36, Rte. M, 
that the remarkable defile through 
which the Spbl descends from Val Li- 
vigno to join the Inn is in great part 
completely impassable. The road from 
Zernetz, after following the rt. bank 
for about 2 m., begins to mount above 
the stream, and gradually gains a much 
higher level, losing the defile from 
view, and leaving it at some distance 
to the rt. After making two circuits, 
to pass lateral torrents, it descends, 
about 3 hrs. from Zernetz, to the stream 
flowing from the Ofen Pass to the de¬ 
file of the Spbl. Save a few patches of 
alpine pasture, the wild valley is clothed 
with forest throughout its entire length, 
and contains but one solitary house— 
the well-known mountain inn known 
as the Ofen Wirthshaus (5,919'). Though 
it offers but poor accommodation, it is 
well spoken of by all travellers, on ac¬ 
count of the friendly and hearty re¬ 
ception given them by the host and his 
family. He is a famous sportsman, 
and has shot a large number of bears, 
which abound in the neighbouring 
mountains, and make havoc among the 
herds. [Tarasp may be reached from 
hence by the Furcletta, a pass connect¬ 
ing the head of Val del Buofsch, a short 
glen opening 1 m. E. of the inn, with 
the head of Val Plafna (§ 36, Rte. A).] 
The track now ascends gently, a little 
S. of E., along the rt. bank of the tor¬ 
rent, till in about 1| hr. it .reaches the 
base of the low ridge separating the 
Ofen glen from the head of Val Mus- 
iair. The name Buffalora, or Boffalora, 
has been sometimes applied to the pass 
leading to Munster (here called Ofen 
Pass^), sometimes to a higher pass lying 
due S., by which the traveller may 
reach Val Fraele and Bormio. A short 
ascent from the point where the track 





ROUTE M.— tUiULS TO MALS. 


445 


leaves the stream leads to the some¬ 
what dreary Ofen Puss (7,070'). The 
summit is an undulating plateau, and 
tracks lead in various directions (one of 
them to the head of Val Scarla), so that 
it is easy to miss the way when there is 
snow on the ground or the clouds lie 
low. To reach the Val Mu*fair, or 
Miinsterthal, the general direction 
hitherto followed through the valley is 
adhered to , but the path winds amidst 
the inequalities of the ground. The 
mountains of this district are partly 
covered with the Pinus Mughus ( Germ. 
Legfohren or Knieholz), whose stems 
and branches, lying on the surface of 
the rock% afford cover to bears and 
other wild animals, while they oppose 
a serious obstacle to the pedestrian, and 
even to the practised mountaineer. A 
rather rapid descent leads from the pass 
into the populous Val Mustair, which 
presents a marked contrast to the silent 
and uninhabited district through which 
the traveller has passed since he left 
Zernetz. The first village is Cierfs 
(5,459'). To the 1., on the slope of the 
mountain, is Lu (6,293'), a small vil¬ 
lage at an unusual height. A path 
leads that way by an easy pass into Val 
Scarla (Rte K). The char-road de¬ 
scends on the rt. bank of the Ramm- 
bach to Fulderu , and thence to Vulcuva 
(4,626'), about 1^ hr. from Cierfs. 
This is rather less than 1 m. from 
Santa Maria (4,519'), the most popu¬ 
lous village in the valley. The Inn is 
good, probably the best in Val Mus¬ 
tair—char to Mals ; 12 fr. At a saw¬ 
mill, ^ hr. below Sta Maria, the road 
crosses to the 1. bank of the stream. 
Berg-falls and inundations of the tor¬ 
rent have done extensive mischief in 
the tract surrounding 

Munster (3,995'), the last Swiss vil¬ 
lage. The people here are Roman 
Catholic, those of the upper valley 
being Protestant; and the name of the 
village comes from a famous Benedic¬ 
tine convent founded here by Charle¬ 
magne. It suffered cruelly, as did all 
the neighbouring villages, from the ; 
French, who were forced to retreat this ! 


j way in 1790, after having a few weeks 
! earlier defeated the Austrians at the 
head of the Vintschgau. 

After crossing the frontier of Tyrol, 
the traveller in | hr. from Minister 
reaches Tauffers, where he finds a 
population speaking German, and not 
over well affected towards their Swiss 
neighbours. The ruins of numerous 
castles attest the importance once at¬ 
tached to this valley, connected as it 
is by comparatively easy passes both 
with Switzerland and Lombardy. The 
pedestrian bound for Mals may leave 
the picturesque little town of Glurns 
on his rt., and go direct to Latsch, 
about 1 m. from Mals; but the rough 
char-road makes a detour by Glurns. 
Mals (Inns: Post; Hirsch) is described 
in § 48. 


Route M, 

SCHULS TO MALS, BY VAL SCARLA, 

One of the most picturesque of the 
lateral valleys of the Engadine is Val 
Scarla, whose torrent joins the Inn a 
little above Schuls, and close to the 
Baths of Tarasp. It lies between 
mountains most of which exceed 
10,000 ft. in height, and is said to 






446 


RH.ETIAN ALPS. § 3 

abound in fine scenery, and to produce 
many rare minerals. The lower val¬ 
ley is savage and desolate, leaving 
no space for houses or cultivation; 
but about 2^ hrs. from Schuls the 
traveller reaches the solitary village 
of the valley, named Scarl (5,948'), 
whose existence in so remote a spot is 
probably due to considerable mines of 
argentiferous lead formerly worked 
here. Above this the valley opens 
our, and alpine pastures cover the 
slopes. About j hr. above Scarl the tra¬ 
veller bound for the Vimschgau leaves 
to his rt. the main branch of the valley, 
by which a path ascends to the S., and 
finally reaches a pass (7,385') leading 
to Lu in Yal Mustair. The direct wav 
to Mals or Glnrns is by a short lateral 
branch of the valley, through which a 
track mounts somewhat S. of E. to a 
pass called La Crusclietta (7,599'), 
lying on the S. side of two high peaks 
—Piz Seesvenna (10,568'), and Mai- 
pitschspitz (10,374'). From the sum¬ 
mit a rarely-used track leads S.E. to 
the head of Val Avigna. The torrent 
draining this glen forms the line of 
frontier between Switzerland and Ty¬ 
rol, and a path, keeping most of the 
way to the Swiss side, descends along 
the stream, which joins the Raminbach 
between Munster and Tauffers (Rte. I). 
Passing through the latter village, the 
traveller may reach Mals in about 3| 
hrs. from the pass, or 9 hrs. from Schuls. 


7 . ORTELER DISTRICT. 


Route N. 

REMUS TO MALS, BY VAL D’UINA. 

About 1| m. above Remus, in the 
Lower Engadine (§ 36, Rte. A), a 
bridge is thrown across the inn just 
below the hamlet of Crusch, and op¬ 
posite the opening of Val d'Uina. 
Through this short glen there is a 
nearly direct way to Mals, more inte¬ 
resting to the mountaineer than that 
by Nauders. The track through Val 
d Uina mounts rapidly to a high pla¬ 
teau forming the pass of Sur Suss 
(about (7,800'), which lies on the E. 
side of Piz Cristiann.es (10,236'). The 
descent to Mals is through the Schlinig- 
thal, and in about 5h hrs. from Remus 
the traveller reaches the small village 
of Schlinig, where there is an easy de¬ 
scent to Schleiss, opposite Mals. By 
bearing to the 1. from the pass of Sur 
Sass, it is easy to reach the head of the 
Zerzerthal, and descend to the Heider 
See, nearly 8 m. N. of Mals. See § 48, 
Rte. A. 






417 


CHAPTER XL 

LOMBARD ALPS. 


Section 38. 

BERGAMASQUE VALLEYS. 

Route A — Bergamo to Tirano, by Val 

Seriana.“*49 

Route B—Bergamo to Sondrio, by Val 

Brembana .... 450 
Route C — Bergamo to Morbegno, by the 

Basso di San Marco . . 451 

Route D — Piazza to Morbegno, by Val 
Stabina — Pizzo dei Tre Si¬ 
gnori .452 

Route E — Lecco to Bellano, by Val Sas- 

sina.453 

Route F — Varenna to Introbbio—Ascent 

of the Grigna . . . 455 

Route G — Morbegno to Bellano, by Val 

Yarrone.456 

Route H — Introbbio to Colico — Ascent 

of the Monte Legnone . . 457 

Section 39. 

VAL CAMONICA DISTRICT. 

Route A— Male in Val di Sole to Brescia, 
by the Tonale Pass and Val 
Camonica .... 459 
Route B — Bergamo to Breno in Val Ca¬ 
monica, by Lovere . . 461 

Route C — Bergamo to Breno, by Clusone 462 
Route D — Lovere to Edolo, by Val di 

Scalve.4G2 


Route E — Edolo to Sondrio, by the Aprica 

Pass.463 

Route F — Ponte di Legno to Santa Cata¬ 
rina, by the Gavia Pass . 463 
Route G — Breno to Lodrone, by the Croce 

Domini Pass . . . 465 

Route H — Iseo to Gardone, in Val Trom- 

pia ...... 466 

Route I — Brescia to Lodrone, by Val 

Trompia . . . .466 

Route K — Brescia to Vestone in Val 

Sabbia.467 

Section 40. 

ADAMELLO DISTRICT. 

Route A — Male to Sal 6 on the Lake of 
Garda, by Val Rendena and 
the Lake of Idro . , . 459 

Route B — Pinzolo to Edolo, by Val di 

Genova. 474 

Route C — Condino to Edolo, by Val 

Daone.478 

Route D — Tione to Riva, on the Lake of 

Garda. 43 ] 

Route E — Lodrone to Riva, by Val Am* 

pola and the Lake of Ledro . 482 
Route F — Pieve di Ledro to Tione . . 484 

Route G — Storo to Toscolano on the Lake 

of Garda, by Val Vestino . 485 
Route H — Pinzolo to Riva, by the Bocca 

di Brenta, and Molveno . 486 


A straight line drawn from Colico, 
at the head of the Lake of Como, to 
Cles in Val di Non, will lie throughout 
close to one of the best defined lines of 
depression in the Alps. Deep valleys 
connected by low passes here mark an 
orographic limit which cannot be over¬ 
looked. To the S. of the Yal Tellina and 
the Aprica Pass, a mountain range in¬ 
ferior in height to those of the Rhagtian 
Alps, but unbroken by any deep gap, 


extends about 50 in. from W. to E. 
That this line of disturbance of the 
surface is of high geological antiquity, 
is rendered probable by the fact that the 
boundary between the conglomerates 
forming the principal range (usually 
referred to the verrucano ), and the 
gneiss of Val Tellina to the N., as well, 
as the trias of the Bergamasque val¬ 
leys to the S., is parallel to that range 
and to the Val Tellina. The eastern 








448 


LOMBARD ALPS. § .48. BERGAMASQUE VALLEYS. 


portion of the region, lying S. of the 
boundary above defined, is character¬ 
ised by a vast mountain mass formed 
of a very peculiar, highly crystalline 
granite, containing much amphibolite, 
which rises into ridges exceeding 11,000 
ft. in height. 

There is at least as much reason for 
regarding the region here spoken of as 
forming one of the main divisions of 
the Alps, as can be urged for the 
separation of the Graian fi'-r.m the Pen¬ 
nine Alps, or those of Dauphine from 
the Cottian chain. To ordinary tourists 
the whole forms a terra incognita ; and 
scientific travellers, who are usually 
the first to explore new districts, have 
scarcely touched many of the most 
interesting valleys. The Editor’s per¬ 
sonal acquaintance with a consider¬ 
able portion of this beautiful region 
is defective ; and he has obtained so 
little information from other sources, 
that many of the routes here named are 
indicated rather than described. It 
may be hoped that the Italian Alpine 
Club will hereafter supply the required 
information, at least as to that portion 
of the territory that has been united 
to the Kingdom of Italy. 

The limits of the region here de¬ 
fined under the name of Lombard Alps 
are accurately defined by the Lake of 
Como and its Lecco branch, to the W.; 
by the high-road from Colico to Cles 
through Val Tellina, and over the 
Aprica and Tmale Passes, to the N.; 
by the Val di Non, the valley of the 
Adige from San Michele to Trento, the 
road thence to Riva, and the Lake of 
Garda, to the E.; while the S. boundary 
is formed by the plain of Lombardy. 
The title, Lombard Alps, may be ob¬ 
jected toon the ground that some of the 
valleys in the E. portion of the range 
belong to the Italian Tyrol; but the 
political divisions in this portion of the 
Alps arc so capricious, that it is im¬ 
possible to take them into account in 
an arrangement based upon the natural 
formations of the surface, especially as 
they do not here coincide with the 
boundaries anciently established be¬ 


tween the contending races that have 
divided the occupation of the habitable 
parts of the Alpine chain. 


SECTION 38. 

BERGAMASQUE VALLEYS. 

The principal range of the Lombard 
Alps, running parallel to Val Tellina 
at no great distance from the Adda, 
sends down torrents that fall rapidly 
towards that river through short and 
steep valleys. On the S. side of that 
range, which is separated from the plain 
of Lombardy by an extensive moun¬ 
tain district where many of the second¬ 
ary ridges affect a direction parallel 
with it, the minor streams are nearly 
all collected into the channel of three 
rivers—Brembo, Serio, and Oglio. The 
two first join the Adda before their 
united waters reach the Po, while the 
more copious stream of the Oglio is 
ultimately united to the Po a little 
S. of Mantua. The city of Bergamo 
stands at the extremity of one of the 
southern outlying promontories of the 
Alps, between the rivers Serio and 
Brembo; and the main valleys of those 
rivers and their tributaries, which have 
at all times followed the political for¬ 
tunes of the city, are generally known 
as the Bergamasque Valleys. That 
name may conveniently be given to 
the district included in the present sec¬ 
tion, which comprehends, however, in 
addition to those valleys, the short but 
beautiful glens that lead to the E. shores 
of the Lake of Como, and the tribu¬ 
taries to the Adda drained by the tor¬ 
rents on the N. side of the principal 
ranges. The Editor has to acknow¬ 
ledge his own ignorance of a great 
portion of this district, and his ill suc¬ 
cess in obtaining useful information 
from other sources. The botanist 
who may desire to explore a region 






ROUTE A.-VAL SERIANA. 


449 


extraordinarily rich in rare plants will 
find an excellent guide in a work by 
the late Dr. Rota, entitled * Prospetto 
della Flora della Provincia di Ber¬ 
gamo,’ which is a model for local 
works of the same class. It docs not 
include the lateral valleys of Val Tel- 
lina, nor those that descend towards 
the Lake of Como; but the botanical 
reader will find in Rte. E some notes 
that may partially supply the de¬ 
ficiency. 

* 


Route A. 

BERGAMO TO TIRANO, BY VAL 
SERIANA. 

The way here indicated is probably 
one of the most interesting that can be 
followed in the Lombard valleys, but 
little information respecting it is at 
hand. 

Bergamo (Inns: Italia, good; Ee- 
nice, tolerably good; both in the lower 
town) is an ancient city, divided into 
t wo distinct portions. The lower and 
more modern, originally a mere suburb, 
stands about 800 feet above the sea, on 
the margin of the great plain of Lom¬ 
bardy ; while the upper town, still girt 
with its ancient ramparts, now con¬ 
verted into public walks, crowns a hill 
above 500 ft. above the plain, midway 
between the rivers Serio and Brembo. 
The higher hill of the Gastello (now 
in ruins), about 1 i m. from the town, 
commands a remarkable view, which 
extends in fine weather to Monte Rosa, 
Monte Viso, and the chain of the Apen¬ 
nines. In the upper town are the 
Church of Santa Maria, with a remark¬ 
able chapel of the Colleoni family; the 
Duomo, not very interesting; thePalazzo 
Vecchio, or Broletto, and the unfinished 
Palazzo Nuovo; besides many fine 
houses belonging to the principal fami¬ 
lies of this part of Lombardy. 

A good road leads from Bergamo 
'hrough the lower half of Val Seriana as 
part ir. c 


far as Ponte di Nossa (about 1,650'), a 
distance of about 18 miles. The first 
village in the valley is Alzano Maggiore 
(564'), where there is a good country 
Inn. About 12 m. from Bergamo, a short 
lateral valley opening to the E. is tra¬ 
versed by a paved track leading to 
Gandino, a large village, where the 
naturalist wishing to explore the lower 
mountains of this district finds good 
accommodation. N. of the village rises 
the Pizzo Formico (5,171'). Soon after 
passing Ponte di Nossa, the road lead¬ 
ing to Clusone and the Lago d’lseo 
(§ 39, Rte. C) leaves the Serio to tra¬ 
verse the low ridge on the E. side 
of the valley. In the opposite direc¬ 
tion, the Monte Albeno (6,706'), and 
Monte Arera (8,255') are the most 
conspicuous points in the range di¬ 
viding the Serio from the Brembo. 
Between them is a pass leading to Val 
Brembana by Zambia. The principal 
track leading to the head of Val Se¬ 
riana keeps nearly due N. along the rt. 
bank, passes Gromo, and at Fiumenero 
(1,972') turns to the rt., until its direc¬ 
tion is but little N. of E. At the last- 
named village, a torrent descends to 
the Serio from a recess in the prin¬ 
cipal range of the Lombard Alps be¬ 
tween the Monte Fedorta (9,980') and 
Pizzo del Diaeolo (9,574'). Imme¬ 
diately on the E. side of the latter 
peak, which must not be confounded 
with another summit of the same name 
lying farther E„ is the Passo del Salto, 
leading to Sondrio by the SE. branch 
of Val Ambi'ia (Kte. B). 

The valley of the Serio is sometimes 
called Val Bondione above a village of 
that name, which is the highest passed 
on this Rte. The scenery here becomes 
quite alpine in charactei\ as the track, 
mounting on the 1. bank of the Serio, 
approaches a group of waterfalls said 
to be the finest in this part of the Alps. 
The principal fall, called Cascata del 
Barbellino, is over 200 ft. in height; 
and above it are two others, remark - 
able for the mass of water that breaks 
over the ledges of conglomerate rock. 
Above the falls is an upland glen called 
G 




450 


LOMBARD ALPS. 


§ 38 . 

Val Barbcllino, where the Serio is 
formed by the union of many torrents 
from the surrounding peaks, most of 
which approach, though they do not 
quite attain to, the height of 10,000 ft. 
Near a small tarn called Lago Barbel- 
lino, the botanist may gather Viola 
Comollia. Several passes, all of them 
high and steep, lead across the range 
into Val Tellina. The most direct 
way to Sondrio is by a track mounting 
near the waterfall to a gap in the ridge 
between the Pizzo di. Cocca (9,705') 
and the eastern Pizzo del Diavolo. The 
way toTirano lies farther E., and passes 
on the W. side of Monte Torena, tra¬ 
versing a small glacier, and descending 
through the Val CaroneUa to Tresenda, 
on the high road from Sondrio to Ti- 
rano, where the road to Edolo over 
the Aprica Pass leaves the Adda. 
See § 36, Rte. E. 


Route B. 

BEBGAMO TO SONDRIO, BY VAL 
BREMBANA. 

The valley of the Brembo does not 
offer any scenery so wild and striking 
as that of the head of Val Seriana ; but 
many of its lateral branches lie be¬ 
tween mountains that rise boldly to a 
height of about 8,000 ft., and would 
perhaps be preferred by a painter to 
the sterner recesses of the central 
ranges of the Alps. The tourist who 
will devote some days to the valley is 
certain to find many sites little if at 
all known to any but the natives. 

The road leaves Bergamo by the 
NW. end of the lower town, passing 
on the N. side of the old city, and in 
about 5 m. reaches the banks of the 
Brembo. One road crosses the river 
to Ahnenno (863 ), a village with a 
good Inn, lying on the 1. bank, near 
the opening of Val Imagna. By that 
valley the pedestrian may reach Lecco, 
passing over the ridge of the Monte 
Resegone (6,165'), which rivals the 


BEEGAMASOUE VALLEYS. 

Campione (Rte. E) for the number of 
rare plants that have been found on 
its craggy pinnacles. A local guide 
should be taken. The traveller bound 
for the head of Val Brembana should 
not cross the river at Almenno, but 
take the road to the rt., which, after 
passing Botta and Sedrina, traverses 
the Brembo higher up, about 14 m. 
before reaching Zogno (1,158'). This 
is the best stopping-place in the lower 
part of Val Brembana. There is also 
a tolerable inn at S. Pellegrino , about 
m. higher up, near the foot of Pizzo 
Regina (4,885'). The scenery improves 
as the traveller ascends the valley, 
keeping to the rt. bank above Zogno. 
To the W. is the opening of Val Tal- 
leggio, by which the pedestrian may 
reach kntrobbio in Val Sassina (Rte. 
E). On the N. side of that glen, the 
Aralalta (6,585') rises very boldly, 
and though of such moderate height 
is a conspicuous object. The two main 
branches of the Brembo unite at Lenna 
(1,804'), which is but ^ m. from Piazza, 
the principal village of the upper part 
of the valley. Here the traveller 
bound for Sondrio leaves the road, 
about 23 m. from Bergamo, and fol¬ 
lows the NE. branch, which preserves 
the name of Val Brembana. A path 
along the rt. bank passes opposite to 
Tra/mcchello, at the W. base of Monte 
Corte (8,340'), and soon after reaches 
Branzi (2,178')- This village would 
be the best stopping-place for a bota¬ 
nist, who will find very many objects 
of interest in the neighbourhood. 
Among other rare plants, Alnus Brem¬ 
bana is common on the slopes of schis¬ 
tose rock above the valley. 

The traveller has a choice of several 
passes leading from Branzi to Sondrio. 
Probably the most interesting is that 
which is reached by following the 
Brembo to its head at a small lake 
called Lago del Diavolo (2,556'). A 
track leads from thence over a pass 
lying due N. into the SW. branch of 
Val Ambtia, one of the chief of the 
southern valleys of Val Tellina. It is 
famous for the excellence of its butter, 



ROUTE C.-PASSO DI SAN MARCO. 


4f)l 


■which has been ascribed to the pre¬ 
valence of Sanguisorba dodecandra, a 
plant peculiar to this and one or two 
neighbouring valleys. It is best to 
keep to the path along the 1. bank, and 
descend to Faedn , whence Sondrio is 
easily reached by a bridge over the 
Adda due S. of the town. 

Another way from Branzi, rather 
shorter than that by Val Ambria, is 
by a pass on the E. side of the Como 
Stella (8,845'). This leads into the 
head of Val del Livrio , which opens 
into Val Tellina at Cajolo, about 1 hr. 
from Sondrio. 

A third and more circuitous way is 
by a pass on the W. side of Corno 
Stella, leading to the head of Val 
Cervo. The lower part of that valley 
is a narrow gorge; and the path is 
carried at a great height above its 
rt. bank, till it finally descends to 
Cedrasco, near the junction of the 
torrent with the Adda. 

All the above passes are reached 
from the main branch of Val Brembana, 
which mounts ENE. from Branzi. At 
that village a torrent joins the Brembo 
from NNW., issuing from a lateral 
valley connected with Val Tellina by 
two passes, one of which is certainly 
easier and probably more direct than 
that last noticed. The way lies by 
Valleve and Foppolo , the highest village 
on the S. side of the pass, and then 
mounts to the ridge east of Monte 
Cadelle (8,301') overlooking the head 
of Val Madre. A well-marked path 
leads down that valley to Fusine , about 
1 m. W. of Cedrasco, near a bridge 
over the Adda, by which the traveller 
attains the high road about 7 m. below 
Sondrio. 

[At the head of the branch of the 
valley NW. of Valleve is Cambrembo, 
or Capo Brembo. A pass lying due 
N. of that village leads into the SE. 
branch of the Val di Tartano, which 
enters Val Tellina about 4 m. E. of 
Morbegno, and this would afford the 
most direct way from Branzi to that 
town. There is another pass from 
Cambrembo, keeping to the S. side of 


the principal range, but N. of Monte 
Cavallo (7,671'), by which the track 
of the Passo di San Marco (Rte. C j 
may be reached from Branzi.] 


Route C. 

BERGAMO TO MORBEGNO, BY THE 
TASSO DI SAN MARCO. 

The way here indicated is by far the 
easiest and the most direct for a tra¬ 
veller wishing to reach Val Tellina 
from Bergamo. By starting early in 
a light char, or calessina, an active tra¬ 
veller might reach Morbegno on the 
same day. It was said in Rte. B, that 
at Lenna, very near Piazza, the Val 
Brembana meets an important lateral 
valley whose torrent descends from 
NNW. The char-road is carried up 
that valley to Olmo (1,877'), a small 
village standing near the point where 
the stream of the Stabina, descending 
from the W., unites with those Issuing 
from two short nearly parallel glens 
that open N. of Olmo. The easier 
way to the pass is by the easternmost 
of these glens, passing the village of 
Averara. Keeping to the rt. at the 
head of the glen, a frequented bridle- 
track leads to the Passo di San Marco 
(5,997'), probably the lowest in the 
range dividing Val Brembana from Val 
Tellina. The pass lies SW. of the 
Monte Azzarini (7,976'), and leads 
down into Val d’ Orta, one of the 
branches of Val del Ditto. Passing 
Alba redo, the traveller descends to 
Morbegno in about 4 hrs. from the 
pass. 




452 


LOMBARD ALPS. 


§ 38 . 


. Route D. 

PIAZZA TO MORBEGNO, BY YAL STA- 

BINA—PIZZO DEI TRE SIGNORI. 

The Val Stabina, -which opens due 
W. near Olmo above Piazza (see last 
Rte.), offers to the mountaineer a much 
more interesting but longer way to 
Morbegno than that by the Passo di 
San Marco. The head of the valley 
leads to Introbbio in Yal Sassina (Rte. 
E) by an undulating plateau, called 
Monte Bobio, about 5,000 ft. in height. 
Two or three lateral glens enter Val 
Stabina from the N. The westernmost 
of these is reached above a hamlet 
called Yaltorta, and a rough track 
mounts through it, first by the E. side, 
then by the W. bank, and finally up a 
steep and bare slope above the 1. bank 
of the torrent, which is nearly dry in 
the height of summer. This leads to 
a hollow in the mountain range, where 
a chalet, or baita, is inhabited for a 
short time during the fine season. 
Cattle-tracks, and paths connected with 
mines that have been worked at various 
times in this neighbourhood, tend to 
confuse the stranger ; but as soon as he 
gains a sufficient height, he finds that 
all the ridges converge towards one 
bold summit, which owes the name 
Pizzo dei Tre Signori to the fact that 
it stands at the meeting of several 
valleys once belonging to three distinct 
territories, and now to three provinces 
of Lombardy. On the S. side it over¬ 
looks the glen here described, and 
another tributary of the Bergamasque 
Val Stabina; on the W. is the head of 
Yal Biandina, a tributary of Yal Sas- 
sina in the province of Como, while 
the N. side of the mountain is drained 
by one of the branches of Val del Bitto. 
The S. side of the peak is extremely 
steep, and time would be lost by at¬ 
tempting to scale it on that side. A 
far better course is to reach the SW. 
shoulder of the mountain, where a good 
track is carried along it, overlooking 
the head of Yal Biandina, and a small 


BERGAMASQUE V'ALLEYS. 

lake—Lago di Sasso—lying at a great 
depth below the pass. The best way 
to the Pizzo dei Tre Signori is by a 
hollow to the rt. of the path, where 
snow lies through a great part of the 
summer. The ascent is rather steep, 
and a little step-cutting may be re¬ 
quired, until the ridge is reached which 
extends northward from the peak, 
between the head of Yal Biandina 
and a deep hollow, connected w ith the 
Val del Bitto, and dividing the Pizzo 
dei Tre Signori from the adjoining 
summit of the Pizzo di Trona. A small 
lake lies in the hollow-, in which snow 
lay deep on the 19th July, when the 
writer passed this way. and the lake 
was completely frozen over. The 
summit of the Pizzo dei Tre Signori 
commands a very extensive and inter¬ 
esting panoramic view of the Bernina, 
the Monte della Disgrazia, and the 
peaks enclosing Val Masino, to the N., 
and of the Lepontine Alps and Monte 
Rosa to the NW. and W. In the 
opposite direction a portion of the 
Orteler group comes into view, but the 
Adamello range is in great part con¬ 
cealed by the Redorta and the adjoin¬ 
ing high mountains at the head of Yal 
Seriana. A small portion of the Lake 
of Como, betw-een Argegno and Bal- 
bianello, comes into view. The summit 
is a few feet higher than the Legnone, 
or about 8,600 ft. in height. Androsace 
Charpentieri , Artemisia spicata, Eritri- 
chium nanum, and other rare plants, 
are found on the highest ridge of the 
mountain. The coarse conglomerate 
forming the peak contains fragments 
of mica-schist, gneiss, and other crys¬ 
talline rocks. 

There appears to be no difficulty in 
descending into the snowy hollow 
above mentioned, which would lead 
the traveller down to the head of Yal 
del Bitto ; but it is a more agreeable 
way to follow- for some distance the 
northern ridge of the mountain, where 
the botanist will be rewarded by many 
interesting plants. On descending to 
the lake which lies at the lower end of 
the hollow-, the traveller may hit upon 



ROUTE E.-FLORA OF VAL SASS1NA. 


453 


a track connected with an abandoned 
mine. He leaves to the 1. a faintly- 
marked path leading over the Passo di 
Trona to the head of Val Varrone 
(Rte. G). The Val di Bitto is an ex¬ 
tremely picturesque glen, containing 
several scattered hamlets, and produces 
cheese of superior quality. The highest 
group of houses is called Gerola, and 
in 3 hrs. of rather rapid descent the 
traveller may reach Morbegno (§ 36, 
Rte. E). 

Route E. 

LECCO TO BELLANO, BY VAL SASSINA. 

The beautiful valleys whose torrents 
flow into the Lake of Como by its E. 
shore are more easily visited from that 
lake than from Bergamo; but the 
mountains that enclose them belong to 
the outlying members of the range of 
the Lombard Alps, and they could not 
w r ell be described elsewhere than in 
this place. The most considerable of 
these valleys is Val Sassina, a deep 
and broad depression which almost 
isolates the remarkable range of crys¬ 
talline limestone lying E. of the Lake 
of Como. The upper portion of Val 
Sassina consists of a rather wide un¬ 
dulating plateau, about 1,500 ft. above 
the level of the Lake of Como, extend¬ 
ing from near the village of Ballabio 
above Lecco to the N. of Introbbio. 
The streams that reach this plateau 
are united in the Pioverna torrent 
which flows NW, to Bellano. The de¬ 
scent from the plateau towards Lecco 
is very rapid. There is now a good 
road on that side, which is open to in¬ 
trobbio, and about 2 m. farther; but the 
old road down the valley towards Bel- 
lano is scarcely passable for wheeled ve¬ 
hicles, and in its present condition can 
be used only on foot or on horseback. 
The way from Lecco to Bellano affords 
a very pleasant excursion for persons 
who fix their head-quarters on the lake, 
but the path described in the next Rte. 
affords a still more agreeable way to 


Introbbio. The mountains on the E. 
side of Val Sassina contain some valu¬ 
able mines, the most important of 
which is noticed below, and the geolo¬ 
gist and mineralogist will lind abun¬ 
dant occupation in the valley. It 
would be difficult to name any station 
in the Alps where the botanist can col¬ 
lect a richer harvest of rare plants, and 
a few days may well be devoted by him 
to making excursions from Introbbio, 
where there is now a comfortable Inn. 
The Campione, which produces the 
rarest and most beautiful of the plants 
noticed below, may be visited in one 
long day from Lecco, and the Grigna 
may be reached from Varenna or Man- 
dello; but Introbbio is to be preferred 
as a centre. The following short list 
includes only the species which are 
likely to be of especial interest to the 
botanist already familiar with the Swiss 
Flora. To those which are confined 
to particular spots the names of the 
mountain on winch they have been 
found, and, in some cases, the approxi¬ 
mate height, is affixed within brackets. 
The Resegone has been included as a 
station for some species, though it forms 
a separate excursion from Lecco:— 

Aquilegia Bertolonii. 

Papaver pyrenaicum (Grigna, 7,800'). 

Arabis pumila (Campione, Resegone). 
Barbarea bracteosa, Monte Bobio, Resegone). 
Viola heterophylla (Campione, Hesegone). 
Silene Elizabethce (Campione, 6,000'). 
Mcekringia Thomasiana (Campione, Grigna). 
Cytisus glabrescens. 

- purpureus. 

-- radiatus. 

Saxifraga Vandellii (Campione, Resegone). 

- sedoides (Campione, Grigna). 

- mutata (Campione, Resegone). 

Laserpitium peucedanoides. 

- nitidum (Campione, Resegone). 

Scabiosa graminifolia. 

Telekia speciosissima . 

Achillea Clavennce. 

Senecio cord at us. 

Crepis Jacquini (Campione). 

Hieracium porrifolium. 

Phyteuma cumosum. 

Campanula spicata. 

- Iiaineri (4,000 / to 7,0^0'). 

- elatinoides (Monte Bobio, Resegone' 

Belonica Alopecurus. 

Primula glaucescens (5.000'). 

Euphorbia variabilis (3.000 to 4,500'). 

Album pedemontanum (Campione). 

Carex baldensis. 

Glyceria spectabilis (Monte Bobio). 










454 


LOMBARD ALPS. § 38. 

The road to Val Sassina mounts 
through a busy suburb of Lecco, where 
a slender stream is employed to work 
silk spinning-wheels and other ma¬ 
chinery. After escaping from the 
houses, the road crosses the stream, and 
the ascent is steep and almost continu¬ 
ous for rather more than 1 hr., when 
the lower of the two hamlets, called 
Ballabio, is reached. The ascent of the 
Campione may be commenced here, 
but not without a local guide, as a 
stranger startiug from this side is al¬ 
most certain to be involved in difficul¬ 
ties. It is better to follow the road 
about two miles farther. A short way 

bevond Ballabio the summit level is 

•/ 

reached, and the road is carried over 
the plateau forming the head of Val 
Sassina, and lying between the lime¬ 
stone range of the Grigna on the 1., 
and the lower range, chiefly formed of 
conglomerate, on the rt. side. The 
Grigna range includes two principal 
summits. The highest is the moun¬ 
tain generally known by that name, 
but also called Monte Codeno, or 
Grigna Septentrionale, to distinguish 
it from the southern summit, or 
Grigna Meridionale, properly called 
Campione. The Grigna attains 7,908 ft. 
—the Campione 7,158 ft. Both these 
peaks show towards the Lake of Como 
a very bold front, with towers and pre¬ 
cipitous walls of rock rising in tiers. 
The Campione, which appears inac¬ 
cessible from every other side, is easily 
reached from the head of Val Sassina, 
by a long, but not very steep slope. It 
is best to keep a direction somewhat 
N. of the highest peak, and then turn 
to the 1. till the summit is attained. 
This is formed of successive teeth of 
rock, divided by deep gaps. A little 
scrambling is necessary to reach the 
point where a stone man has been 
erected, and then the traveller is di¬ 
vided by a cleft from the last and 
highest pinnacle of rock, which has 
not been attained, but may probably be 
achieved by a skilful cragsman. The 
ascent of the Grigna from the head of 
Val Sassina involves a long andmono- 


BERGAMASQUE VALLEYS. 

tonous climb up a steep unbroken slope,, 
till the ridge is reached a short way 
from the highest point. To the natu¬ 
ralist as well as the ordinary traveller, 
the ascent from the opposite side (Rte. 
F) is much more interesting. 

In 2| hrs. in a carriage, 3 hrs. on 
foot from Lecco, the traveller may 
reach Introbbio (Inn: Alb. delle Mi- 
niere, new, clean, and reasonable), a 
thriving village, which the traveller 
may make a centre for many excur¬ 
sions. Besides the ascent of the Cam¬ 
pione, above noticed, the geologist or 
botanist may visit the mine of Valbona, 
situated a short way below the summit 
of the Cima di Cam, at fully 6,500 ft. 
above the sea. The resident director 
of this and other mines worked in the 
neighbourhood is Signor Arrigoni, 
Svndic of Introbbio. A naturalist 

V 

wishing to explore the high valleys 
that converge towards the Pizzo dei 
Tre Signori, and to ascend the peak, 
should apply to that gentleman for 
permission to pass the night at a house 
close to the principal mine, which con¬ 
tains two good beds, sometimes re¬ 
quired for the use of directors or ma¬ 
nagers. The pass to Val Brembana 
over the ridge of Monte Bohio is not 
very interesting in point of scenery, 
but the botanist will find several cu¬ 
rious plants on the rocks rt. of the re¬ 
gular track. The way to the head of 
Val Varrone is noticed in Rte. G. 

The new road is carried about 2 m. 
beyond Introbbio; but after that point 
the old road, never good, has become 
almost impassable, having been partly 
carried away by inundations of the 
Pioverna. The stream is crossed near 
Cortabbio, and soon after passes San 
Pietro and Cortenova. A little farther 
is Tartavalle, where a mineral spring 
attracts a few water-drinkers. To this 
point the slope of the valley has been 
very gentle, but a little below Tar¬ 
tavalle the Pioverna begins to fall 
rapidly through a defile which it has 
cut through the triassic rocks. The 
scenery is extremely picturesque. By 
bearing to the 1. the traveller may go 



ROUTE F.-ASCENT OF THE GRIGNA. 


455 


to Regoledo (§ 33, Rte. B) -without 
descending to Bellano. By the track 
which keeps to high ground on either 
hank of the Pioverna, he will reach 
Bellano (Inn: Alb. della Torre), de¬ 
scribed in § 33, Rte. B. 


Route F. 

VARENNA TO INTROBBIO—ASCENT OF 
THE GRIGNA. 

The little glen of Esino, by which the 
traveller may reach Val Sassina from 
Varenna, and which affords the easiest 
way for ascending the Grigna, is one 
of the most charming of those retired 
nooks which abound in the mountains 
about the L. of Como, and well rewards 
those who make it the object of a short 
excursion from Varenna (see § 33, 
Rte. B). The only drawback is the 
intense heat to which the traveller 
is exposed who ascends from Varenna 
after the sun has begun to tell upon the 
slopes above that village. The ascent 
of the Grigna from that place is an 
excursion long enough to make it ex¬ 
pedient to start at a very early hour; 
but even without that motive it is 
advisable to start betimes. 

The track mounts from Varenna on 
the N. side of the rock on which stand 
the ruins of the castle, and then keeps 
on the ridge above the 1. bank of the 
torrent, commanding at intervals beau¬ 
tiful views over the lake. On the op 
posite side of the glen is Perledo, in¬ 
teresting to geologists for the remark¬ 
able fossils of the triassic period found 
in adjoining quarries. After a moderate 
ascent, the track is carried at a level 
along the SW. slope of the valley, 
gradually approaching the stream, 
which is crossed a short way below the 
poor village of Esino . In pursuance 
of a local regulation, the curate or cap- 
pell ano of the village is bound to keep 
two beds for the accommodation of 
strangers; and this is convenient for a 
naturalist who desires to have sufficient 


time for the exploration of the Grigna. 
There is here a track leading SSW. 
over one of the spurs of the Grigna 
to the shore of the lake N. of Olcio. 
Above Esino the track to Val Sassina 
returns to the 1 . bank, and mounts 
through a delightful glen presenting 
the perfection of park scenery, where 
the traveller may find his way over soft 
turf under the shade of noble chestnut 
trees. The higher summits of the 
Grigna are not in view, or else the 
scene might rival the choicest spots of 
the Italian Tyrol. Near the head of 
this recess there is a path to the rt. 
leading to the head of the Neria tor¬ 
rent, which flows SSW. to the Lake of 
Como by Mandello, and another, faintly 
marked, which is followed in the ascent 
of the Grigna. The main track to Val 
Sassina keeps an easterly direction, 
passing near to a chalet at the head of 
the glen, where milk may be obtained. 
A short ascent leads thence to the sum¬ 
mit of the ridge forming the Caina/ln 
Pass (about 4,000' ?). The scenery on 
the Val Sassina side is bolder, though 
not more beautiful than that passed in 
the ascent. Some of the shattered 
pinnacles of the Grigna rise to the rt., 
while the path winds for some way 
amidst steep rocks, and then descends 
by zigzags the steep slope towards the 
valley. The beaten path leads to 
Cortenova; but the mountaineer who 
has no objection to rough ground may 
shorten the way to Introbbio by making 
his descent to San Pietro. Fully 2 ^ 
hrs. are required to reach that place 
from Varenna, and nearly 1 ^ hr. will 
be employed on the way thence to 
Introbbio (see last Rte.). 

The easiest and at the same time 
the most interesting way for the ascent 
of the Grigna (7,908') follows the 
course above described nearly as far as 
the head of the glen of Esino. Mount¬ 
ing nearly due S., amid stunted 
brushwood, the traveller soon reaches 
a ridge which commands a view of a 
considerable hollow, or recess, running 
deeply into the mass of the Grigna. 
He will find a narrow but easy path 



456 


LOMBARD ALPS. § 38. 

that ascends very gently round the W. 
side of this hollow, ultimately reaching 
its S. end, which lies at no great dis¬ 
tance below the highest ridge of the 
mountain. A rather steep ascent leads 
past a miserable hovel which serves as 
lodging for one or two shepherds, who 
pasture a few sheep and goats on the 
nearly bare rocks. Continuing to 
ascend, the traveller reaches a hollow 
in the mountain containing a large 
accumulation of snow, which never 
completely melts even in the hottest 
summer. It is spoken of by some local 
writers as a glacier; but the snow is in 
the condition of neve, rather than that 
of true glacier-ice. Near this the bo¬ 
tanist may gather Papaver pyrenaicum. 
The mountaineer will have no difficulty 
in making his way to the highest ridge 
of the mountain, and to the highest 
point which lies near the S. end of the 
ridge. The panorama is very extensive, 
and includes a great part of the valley 
of the Po, bounded by the Apennines 
of Parma and Modena; but the Lake 
of Como does not unfold itself so fully 
as might be expected. The projecting 
spurs and lower terraces of the moun¬ 
tain conceal a great part of it from 
view. 

It appears to be possible to descend 
from the ridge close to the summit to¬ 
wards Mandello through one of the 
branches of Val Neria ; but the way is 
certainly very steep, and may be im¬ 
practicable. A much easier way is to 
return a part of the way taken in the 
ascent, and then descend to Mandello 
by the head of one of the main branches 
of the Neria. 


BERGAMASQUE VALLEYS. 

Route G. 

MORBEGNO TO BELLANO, BY VAL 

VARRONE. 

In the description of the E. shore of 
the Lake of Como (§33, Rte. B) allusion 
was made to the Varrone , a consider¬ 
able torrent that enters the lake close 
to Dervio. It drains a valley parallel 
to Val Sassina, but far less frequented. 
It is strange that nearly all the com¬ 
munication between the middle and 
upper part of this valley and the Lake 
of Como should be through Bellano, 
over the ridge separating the two neigh¬ 
bouring valleys, rather than by the 
natural line of descent to Dervio. The 
ground is so difficult, and the path so 
rough and hilly, that the time requisite 
for descending to Dervio is consider¬ 
ably more than that sufficing to reach 
Uellano; and it is said that in one part 
of the valley the frequent fall of stones 
from the flanks of the Legnone makes 
the path somewhat dangerous. The 
traveller approaching the L. of Como 
from Morbegno may take an unfre¬ 
quented but interesting way through 
Val Varrone, and by giving a second 
day to the excursion will have time to 
make the ascent of the Legnone. There 
is a path from Pedesina in Val del 
Bitto by which one branch of Val 
Varrone is reached directly over a pass 
lying a little S. of W. from that hamlet. 
Those who wish to see something of 
the fine scenery at the head of Val del 
Bitto will prefer the Passo di Trona, 
leading to the head of the main branch 
of Val Varrone. This is not very 
attractive in point of scenery; but 
several rare plants, such as Cardamine 
a sari folia, Androsace argentea, and, 
lower down in the valley, Barbarea 
bracteosa, reward the botanist for his 
visit. After descending into the head 
of the valley, a level tract of alpine 
pasture extends for more than a mile ; 
and soon after this terminates, the tra¬ 
veller unexpectedly finds a good road 
in an uninhabited and seemingly de¬ 
serted valley. It has been made with 




ROUTE H.—ASCENT OF MONTE LEGNONE. 


457 


a view to mining operations which are 
at present can ied forward lower down. 
The scenery becomes more interesting 
as the road descends two successive 
steps, passing from the 1. to the rt. 
bank, and a portion of the ridge of the 
Legnone begins to show itself above 
the nearer slopes. Should the traveller 
wish to go directly to Bellano, he must 
follow the road which returns to the 1. 
bank, and about 2 m. lower down begins 
to ascend towards a depression in the 
ridge dividing the Varrone from the 
Pioverna. Towards the summit of the 
ridge he gains a fine view of the Le- 
gnone, and then follows the road across 
a nearly level plateau whereon stand 
three or four yillages, the chief of 
which is Margno. He then crosses to 
the rt. bank of an affluent of the Pio¬ 
verna, and ascends gently for some dis¬ 
tance till he finds himself in Val Sas- 
sina, on a well-made track, at a great 
height above the course of the Pio¬ 
verna, commanding beautiful views. 
At last a steep and long descent by 
a rough paved track leads down to 
Bellano. 

If the traveller descending Yal Var¬ 
rone from the Passo di Trona should 
intend to halt at Premana, probably 
the best quarters in the valley, he must 
be careful not to follow the road at the 
point where it returns to the 1. bank of 
the Varrone. About 5 min. above the 
bridge, where the road begins to de¬ 
scend rapidly, a faintly-marked path 
turns to the rt., and is carried for some 
distance along the steep slope of the 
mountain, gradually ascending, and 
attaining a great height above the 
torrent, till it reaches the village 
(Rte. H). 

Route H. 

INTROBBIO TO COLICO-ASCENT OF 

THE MONTE LEGNONE. 

The traveller who has undertaken 
to explore the valleys on the E. side 
of the Lake of Como will not be content 


to omit the ascent of the highest of the 
adjacent peaks, whose bold pyramidal 
form is so remarkable from most parts 
of the lake. This is the well-known 
Monte Legnone (8,568'), lying in the 
range dividing Val Varrone from Val 
Tellina, and forming the western ter¬ 
mination of the principal range of the 
Lombard Alps. Under favourable con¬ 
ditions the view is of the highest in¬ 
terest, and the expedition may be 
strongly recommended to the moun¬ 
taineer who can spare two or three 
days when in this neighbourhood. It 
is not, indeed, impossible to make the 
ascent from Colico and return on the 
same day to that place; but it i'j a 
much better arrangement to ascend the 
mountain from the side of Val Var¬ 
rone. The ascent may be combined 
with an excursion in Val Sassina and 
the neighbouring valleys by one or 
other of the courses here suggested. 

The easiest way from lntrobbio to 
Val Varrone is to follow a track on the 
rt. bank of the Pioverna from Cortab- 
bio to Bindo, and then ascend gently 
to Margno. The way then lies by the 
road mentioned in Rte. G., which, after 
passing Sommadino, begins to descend 
towards the Varrone- On the opposite 
side, and at a great height above that 
torrent, are seen two villages. That 
lying immediately opposite, and at the 
base of a ridge that extends to the 
peak of the Legnone, is Pagnona. To 
the rt., and separated from Pagnona by 
a deep ravine that penetrates far into 
the range of the Legnone, is Premana , 
where ^rather rough but very tolerable 
quarters are found at a village inn 
kept by Malugani. To reach the one 
or the other of these villages, it is 
necessary to cross the Varrone, and 
make a long and steep ascent. Pa¬ 
gnona offers the more direct w r ay to the 
summit; but the course by Premana, 
noticed below, is perhaps the more in¬ 
teresting. 

A second way from lntrobbio is by 
a track running nearly due N. through 
the Val Biandina, which keeps the 
same direction when the head of that 




458 


LOMBARD ALPS. § 39. VAL CAMONICA DISTRICT. 


valley turns towards the Pizzo dei Tre 
Signori, and leads over the ridge di¬ 
viding it from Yal Varrone, which is 
reached nearly 2 hrs. above Premana. 

A third route from Introbbio, more 
interesting to the mountaineer than 
the above, is to take the Pizzo dei Tre 
Signori in the way to Premana. For 
that purpose, it is best to go by the 
mine of Yalbona, and then to reach 
the W. base of the peak, mainly by 
following the ridge overlooking the 
head of Yal Biandina. The way would 
then lie by the lake at the upper end 
of Val del Bitto and the Passo di 
Trona. (See Rtes. D and G.) This 
would be a hard day’s work if taken 
from Introbbio, but a moderate day from 
Yalbona, if the traveller should be 
able to sleep there. 

The ascent of the Legnone from 
Pagnona is along the southern ridge 
of the mountain, and is probably the 
easiest way of reaching the summit. 
The course from Premana is along the 
E. side of the wild glen or ravine that 
separates that village from Pagnona. 
Towards the head of this glen the tra¬ 
veller reaches a group of chalets, and 
continuing the ascent with scarcely a 
trace of path, attains to a little tarn 
surrounded by dark rocks, which often 
remains frozen till late in the sum¬ 
mer. Keeping well to the 1. round a 
projecting buttress in the mountain, a 
rough and slightly-marked track leads 
to a pass or gap overlooking Val Tel- 
lina. This pass, called L'Usciolo (?), 
is reached in hrs. from Premana, 
and the traveller may descend from it 
in 3 hrs. to Delebio, half-way between 
Morbegno and Colico (§ 36, Rte. E). 

The way to the summit of the Le¬ 
gnone is along the ridge to the 1. of 
the pass. This is steep, a good deal 
broken, and in places requires some 
care. The writer encountered bad 
weather, and did not complete the 
ascent, but has no doubt that the 
views gained from the time that a tra¬ 
veller reaches the ridge must be ex¬ 
tremely fine. It would be possible to 
descend from the summit direct to 


Colico, and it would also be easy to 
reach Morbegno from the Usciolo Pass, 
following the Lesina torrent down to 
the high road at Delebio. 


SECTION 39. 

VAL CAMONICA DISTRICT. 

There is no one of the greater valleys 
of the Alps that has been so unac¬ 
countably neglected by foreigners as 
the Val Camonica. Allowing the pre¬ 
eminent attractions of the three great 
Lombard lakes, it is remarkable that 
strangers entering Italy from the Tyrol 
are not oftener tempted to select a 
route which will lead them through 
scenery grander than that of many of 
the more famous alpine passes, and 
after the usual gradual transition to 
southern climat e and vegetation, enters 
the plain of Northern Italy after tra¬ 
versing a lake which ranks next after 
those that draw visitors from every 
part of Europe. The lateral valleys 
of Val Camonica abound in scenery 
of the wildest character, but are as 
yet scarcely knowm even to men of 
science. 

In the present district are included 
the main valley and the mountain dis¬ 
trict lying between it and the Serio. 
The high mass of snowy mountains 
whose best known summit is the Ada- 
mello, lying E. of the head of Val 
Camonica, is described in the next sec¬ 
tion ; but the Val Trompia,N. of Brescia, 
and the ranges between Val Sabbia 
and the Oglio, are more conveniently 
comprised in the present division of 
this wbrk. 

The natural division between the 
Adamello group and the ranges en¬ 
closing the Brescian valleys nearly 
correspond with the track from Breno 
to Bagolino by the pass of Croce Do¬ 
mini. 

There are fair country Inns at Lo- 
vere, and at Breno, in Val Camonica, 





ROUTE A.-TONALE PASS. 


459 


and at Gardone and Bovegno in Val 
Trompia; but tolerable accommodation 
for a mountaineer may be found at 
many other places lying higher, and 
better situated for exploring the alpine 
valleys of this district. 


Route A. 

MALE IN VAL DI SOLE TO BRESCIA, 


BV THE TONALE 

PASS 

AND V 

CAMONICA. 


Italian 

Eng. 


miles 

miles 

Pelizzano . 

8 

9 

Ponte di Legno. 

12 

14 

Edolo . . . 

12 

14 

Breno 

16 

18| 

Pisogne 

14 

IGi 

Iseo . 

12 

14 

Brescia 

13 

15 


87 

O 

o 

*|u 


A road in great part new, but rough 
in places, leads from the Tyrol to Bres¬ 
cia, so that travellers reaching Val di 
Non by the road from San Michele 
(§ 37, Rte. B), or by any of the moun¬ 
tain passes described in the same sec¬ 
tion, may enter Italy by this route with¬ 
out the slightest difficulty or fatigue. 
Travellers who would combine this 
part of the Alps with the Bernina 
range, or the fine scenery at the head 
of Val Tellina, without crossing the 
Austrian frontier, may reach Ponte di 
Legno from Sta. Catarina by the Gavia 
Pass, or follow the carriage-road over 
the Aprica Pass from Tresenda in Val 
Tellina to Edolo. 

As far as Fusine, a hamlet about 
1 n». above Pelizzano, the way from 
Male to the Tonale Pass is the same 
as that leading to Bormio (§ 37, Rte. 
B). At that place the new road of the 
Tonale follows the branch of Val di 
Sole, called Val Vermiglio, in a nearly 
direct line WSW. to the Tonale Pass. 
Val Vermiglio forms a deep trench at 
the N. base of the granitic range of the 
Presanella (§ 40), whose W. extremity 
is formed by the Monte Piscanno. 
Three hamlets are passed, of which 


the highest, properly called Pizzano 
(4,192'), but often styled Vermiglio, has 
a decent inn, and the frontier custom¬ 
house. Beyond this the road mounts 
the slopes on the N. side of the valley, 
and after passing under a new Austrian 
fort, attains the summit of the Tonale 
Pass (6,483'). Opposite the fort the 
Val Presena opens to SE. an admi¬ 
rable view of the Presanella, whose 
highest peak was first reached from this 
side in 1864 (see § 40, Rte. A). A 
chapel and a poor inn stand very near 
the top of the pass, but the hospice has 
been left quite on one side in making 
the new road. The slopes and rocks 
of Monte Tonale, N. of the pass, pro¬ 
duce many rare plants, of which 
the following deserve to be specially 
noted:— Ranunculus Seguieri, Oxytropis 
Halleri and O. Gaudini, Potentilla ca- 
monia (of Rota), Saxifraga planifolia 
and S. stenopetala, Pedicularis aspleni- 
Jolia; Primula integrifolia, P. glutinosa. 
and P minima; Orchis Spitzelii; Carex 
pulicaris, C. pancijlora, C. microglochin , 
G bicolor, C. aterrima, and C.fuligi- 
nosa, Avena subspicata, and Poa sude- 
iica. 

The new military road comes to an 
end at the summit of the pass, and the 
descent on the Italian side is by the old 
narrow and steep road, fit only for light 
vehicles. The head of Val Camonica 
is reached at Ponte di Legno (4,234'?), 
with a poor, dirty, and dear inn. 
The position is tempting to the moun¬ 
taineer, as several alpine paths meet 
here. The Gavia Pass, leading to Sta. 
Catarina, is noticed in Rte. F, and the 
passes to Val di Genova, in § 40, Rte. 
B. It is most probable that the Monte 
Adamello (§ 40) is accessible by the 
Val delle Susine, which opens to the S. 
from Ponte di Legno, and by the Ve- 
dretta di Narcane at its head. The 
attempt is worth a trial. About 1 hr. 
below Ponte di Legno, near Pontagna, 
the Val di Avio opens to the S., leading 
to a rather large alpine lake lying 
E. of the peak of Mte. Avio. It would 
probably be practicable to cross the 
ridge S. of the lake, and descend by 








4G0 


LOMBARD ALPS. § 39. 

the SE. side of the Corno della Gra- 
nate (10,29S') into Val di Malga, a 
glen that enters Val Canioniea at Kino, 
about 3 m. below Edolo. The high 
road descends rather rapidly along the 
Oglio from Pontagna to Vezza, where 
a track leads N. through Val Grande, 
pains the ridge NNE. of the Monte 
Serrotini (9,616), and some other 
summits of nearly equal height, and 
then descends westward to Monda- 
dizza, below the defile of Morignone 
(§ 36, Rte. E). About 3 m. lower 
down the Oglio , another path leads to 
Grosio , in Val Tellina, by the easier 
pass of Mortirolo. 

Edolo (Inns : Leone, tolerable ; Due 
Mori, bad and dear), is the chief place 
in the Upper Val Cane mica, 2,293 ft. 
above the sea. For the Aprica road 
to Tirano, see Rte. E. A post-carriage 
plies daily to Erescia. A little above 
Edolo, the Oglio bends to the S. and 
traverses a cleft, or cluse, through 
the axis of the Lombard Alps, thence¬ 
forward following a SSW. course, pa¬ 
rallel to that of the Serio, the Chiese. 
the Lake of Garda, and the Adige. 
About 1 hr. below Edolo is the open¬ 
ing of Val di Malga, a glen running up 
to the very base of the A darnel lo, see 
§ 40, Rte. B. Nearly 2 hrs. farther is 
Cedtgolo (with a good country inn kept 
by Perroletto), at the opening of Val Sa- 
viore, which unites the streams from two 
glens that run deep into the Adamello 
range. The westernmost is Val di 
Brate, closed at its head by the Ve 
dretta di Salurno, while farther E. is 
the Valdi Adame leading to the Vedretta 
di Adame. It is easy to cross the ridge 
dividing the latter glen from the head of 
Val di Fum, but the way to Val Daone 
is by a track that mounts to SE. from 
the hamlet of Isola, and passes the Lago 
d’ Amo. See § 40, Rte. C. At Cede- 
golo the high road crosses the Oglio, 
leaving on the opposite side Grevo, but 
it returns to the 1. bank at 

Capo di Ponte (1,345'), where there 
is a poor Inn. Here a mule-track turns 
eastward, and leads over a low ridge to 1 
Schilpario in Val di Scalve (Rte. D). 


VAL CAMONICA DISTRICT. 

Breno is the principal place in the 
lower part of Val Camonica, pictu¬ 
resquely placed on a rock in the middle 
of the valley. It lias an Inn (Pellegrino) 
offering fair accommodation, but the 
position is low and hot. Several glens, 
the longest of which is Val Pallobia, 
enter the valley from the E., and give 
access to the range of bold granitic 
peaks extending S. from the Monte del 
Gastello. The nearest to Breno are 
the Monte Blum otic (9,321') and Monte 
Frerone (8,676'). A track that passes 
by Pescarzo is the shortest way to the 
Croce Domini Pass (Rte. G). Below 
Breno the road to Iseo and Brescia 
keeps to the rt. bank of the Oglio, till, 
at the junction of the torrent from 
Val di Scalve with that river, it leaves 
the road of the rt. bunk which extends 
to Lovere, and traverses the alluvial 
flat on the 1. bank to Pisogne near the 
influx of the Oglio into the Lake of 
Iseo. Without attempting to place 
this lake on a level with the three great 
Lombard lakes, nor even with that of 
Lugano, it may fairly be said that its 
attractions have not had a fair share 
of notice from travellers. The length, 
allowing for its somewhat sinuous form, 
is about 17 m.; and its breadth ap¬ 
proaches 2 m., except at the middle, 
where it widens out, and the space is 
occupied by a large rocky island. 
Though the mountains rise in gentle 
slopes above the shores, some of them 
attain a considerable height, and the 
Monte Guglielmo, SE. of Pisogne, 
reaches 6,274 ft. The surface of the 
lake is 627 ft. above the sea, and its 
depth about 700 ft. A frequented 
road leading to Iseo and Brescia runs 
along the E. shore, where there are 
many villages and hamlets ; the oppo¬ 
site side is comparatively deseited, 
though it offers many fine sites, and 
two or three proprietors possess villas 
on that bank. The chief communica¬ 
tion on the lake is by steamer. In 
1862 the steamer left Lovere about 
4 a m., reached Iseo about 5, and then 
went in about f hr. to Sarnico. In 
returning, it started from Sarnico at 




ROUTE B.—VAL CALErPIO. 


10 A.M., called at Iseo at 10.4 5, and 
then went to Lovere. 

The writer, in place of a ‘ tidy Inn 
by the water-side,’ spoken of in a work 
of authority, found the Vapore at Iseo 
to be miserable and filthy, about the 
worst he has ever encountered in the 
Is'orth of Italy. The position of Iseo 
is interesting to the geologist. The 
remains of the ancient moraines of the 
Oglio are very extensive. This neigh¬ 
bourhood has been well examined by 
M. G. de Mortillet, whose views as to 
the origin of Alpine lakes are referred 
to in the Introduction (art. Geology). 
The olive grows freely on the slopes 
surrounding the lakes, and in some 
sheltered spots orange and lemon trees 
ripen their fruit. Campanula sibirica , 
and other interesting plants, may be 
found on a rocky knoll crowned by a 
ruined castle a little E. of the village 
of Iseo. Besides the diligence for 
Edolo, omnibuses ply twice a day be¬ 
tween Iseo and Brescia. The road 
runs through a fertile country, with 
pleasing views of the wooded moun¬ 
tains that form the southern extremity 
of the range dividing the valley of the 
Oglio from Val Trompia, to 

Brescia (Inns; Albergo d’Italia; 
Regina d’Inghilterra; Gambaro ; be¬ 
sides many second-rate houses), a fine 
city that has twice expiated by fright¬ 
ful suffering the patriotic spirit of its 
inhabitants. Its capture by the French 
in the 16th century was signalised by 
atrocities that even in that age sur¬ 
passed the license of military violence ; 
and in our own day it has supported 
from the Austrians a bombardment 
that caused needless devastation, whose 
traces are not yet effaced. The Museo 
Patrio, containing a famous bronze 
winged statue of Victory, with many 
other Roman antiquities, occupies the 
interior of a very interesting building 
originally surrounded by Corinthian 
columns, erected or restored by Ves¬ 
pasian. The ancient cathedral, or 
Duomo Vecchio ; the Duomo Nuovo, 
conspicuous for its large cupola, and 
many other churches, some of them of 


4G1 

high antiquity, deserve the traveller's 
notice. The civic buildings of Brescia, 
including the Palazzo della Loggia, 
the Broletto, the Torre delle Pallata, 
&c., and the palaces of the old families 
of the city, are on a scale which is not 
to be seen in towns of much greater 
importance north of the Alps. The 
ramparts, now converted into a public 
drive, command fine views of the sur¬ 
rounding country. The Campo Santo, 
near the town, contains many fine 
monuments, and deserves a visit. 


Route B. 

BERGAMO TO BRENO IN VAL CAMONICA, 
BV LOVERE. 

The traveller approaching Val Ca- 
monica from the W. may choose be¬ 
tween several routes from Bergamo. 

The shortest way is to take the rail¬ 
way to Palazzolo,VL large village on the 
Oglio, about 6 m. from the S. end of 
the Lake of Iseo. He may there hire 
a light carriage, or take the omnibus 
(twice daily ?) to Sarnico, a village on 
the rt. bank of the Oglio, just at the 
point where it issues from the Lake of 
Iseo. It has an indifferent Inn. The 
traveller may then proceed to Iseo (last 
Rte.), or to Lovere (see below), by the 
steamer. Pleasant walks maybe made 
from Sarnico over the bills above the 
lake, and the pedestrian may take that 
course to Lovere, ascending on his way 
the Monte Bronztme (4,446'), command¬ 
ing a fine view over the lake, and then 
pass by Fonteno and Esmate. Another 
way is by a wooded valley, called Val 
Caleppio, lying on the W. side of 
Monte Bronzone, and about due N. of 
Sarnico. There is a track that way to 
Lovere which passes Adrara and Fon¬ 
teno. 

Another way from Bergamo to the 
lake is by the Baths of Trescorre (about 
10 m. from that town), now much fre¬ 
quented for its mineral waters, but not 
attractive to the traveller. This place 





4.02 LOMBARD ALPS. § 39. 

lies at the opening of Val Cavallina , a 
deep excavation in the hills, occupied 
at its upper end by a long narrow 
sheet of water, called Lago di Spinone, 
drained by the Cherio torrent. A good 
road is carried along the rt. bank of 
that stream, and after passing the Lake 
of Spinone, traverses a level tract but 
a few feet higher than its banks, and 
descends very slightly towards the Lake 
of Iseo. After joining the road from 
Clusone, the shore is reached about 
15 m. from Trescorre, and in 1 m. 
more the traveller arrives at Lovere , a 
village with a fair country Inn (Canone 
d’Oro), offering the best quarters and 
the prettiest position on the lake. 
Among other short excursions in the 
neighbourhood, the stranger may visit 
a curious gorge, called Orrido di Ti- 
nazzo, near the road from Trescorre. 

Having reached Lovere, either by 
Sarnico or by Val Cavallina, there is 
a good road along the rt. bank of the 
Oglio. By that way the main road from 
Brescia to Breno and Edolo is joined 
about 8 m. from Lovere. 


Route C. 

BERGAMO TO BRENO, BY CLUSONE. 

A somewhat circuitous route, espe¬ 
cially interesting to the botanist who can 
spare time for a visit to Castione, ena¬ 
bles the traveller to see something of 
the lower part of Val Seriana on his 
way from Bergamo to Val Camonica. 
The carriage-road up Val Seriana is 
carried as far as Ponte di Nossa (§38, 
Rte. A), and then turns aside to NE., 
in order to mount a low ridge forming 
a depression in the range on the E. 
side of Val Seriana. Here stands the 
large village of Clusone (2,129'), with 
a good country inn. About 2 m. E. of 
Clusone the Borlezza torrent, which 
had flowed for several miles towards 
WSW., makes a sharp turn to the S., 
and finally runs SE. to enter the L. of 
Iseo a little way S. of Lovere. There \ 


k r AL CAMONICA DISTRICT. 

is a good road along the stream leading 
from Clusone to Lovere, by which 
place (see last Rte.) the traveller may 
reach Breno. 

The other way from Clusone to 
Breno is by the upper valley of the 
Borlezza. A char-road leads to Cas¬ 
tione (2,710'), about 6 m. from Clusone. 
This village stands at the S. base of 
the Monte Presolana ( 8 , 202 '), formed of 
crystalline limestone, and very inter¬ 
esting to the botanist for the nume¬ 
rous rare plants that are found on its 
rocks, including most of those found 
on the limestone mountains of Val 
Sassina (§38, Rte. E). Therai’e Cam¬ 
panula eJatinoides descends to the 
neighbourhood of Castione and Clu¬ 
sone, where it is seen on old walls, and 
has been gathered, though very rarely, 
near the shores of the Lake of Iseo. 
The pedestrian may go from Castione 
to Val Camonica across the ridge SE. 
of the Presolana overlooking the Val 
di Scalve (Rte. D). The height of the 
pass is not more than 4,265 ft. The 
beaten track leads from the pass up 
the last-named valley to Schilpario, but 
it is doubtless possible, w r ith the help of 
a local guide, to descend the E. side of 
Val di Scalve to its junction with Val 
Camonica. 


Route D. 

LOVERE TO EDOLO, BY VAL DI SCALVE. 

Reference has been made in Rtes. A 
and C to the Val di Scalve, one of the 
chief lateral valleys of Val Camonica. 
As in all the valleys that penetrate 
deeply into the range of the Lombard 
Alps, the torrent at the head of the valley 
flows parallel to that range from E. to 
W. At the hamlet of Vilminore it 
turns to the S., and ultimately flows 
SE. into Val Camonica. As mentioned 
in the last Rte., the Val di Scalve may 
be entered from Castione by a pass SE. 
of the Presolana; but the ordinary way 
is by a bridle-track that turns aside 
from the high road about 8 m. from 



ROUTE F.— GAVIA PASS. 


4G3 


Lovere, and mounts the slope above 
the 1. bank. Fully 4 hrs. are re¬ 
quired for the gradual ascent by a path 
winding along the mountain declivity 
to reach the point where the valley 
turns to the E. along the base of the 
range whose highest summits are 
Monte Gleno and Monte Venerocolo. 
Through a lateral glen that joins the 
valley close to Vilminore, a rough 
track mounts to a pass on the E. side 
of Monte Gleno, and then descends 
through the Val di Belviso , entering 
Yal Tellina at the point where the 
road of the Aprica descends to Tre- 
senda. 

The chief village of the upper part 
of Val di Scalve is Schilpario, where a 
naturalist may probably find tolerable 
accommodation. The line of junction 
between the Yerrueano ‘and the Trias 
appears to run along the head of the 
valley, and the Venerocolo produces 
many of the rare plants that prefer a 
siliceous soil. 

The bridle track from Schilpario to 
the upper part of Val Camonica is car¬ 
ried about 10 m. nearly due E. to Capo 
di Ponte, on the high road, about 5^ m. 
N. of Breno, or 13 m. from Edolo. A 
shorter way for a pedestrian to the 
latter place bears to the 1. from the 
bridle-track, mounts a rather steep 
ridge, and descends into Val Paisco, 
which enters Val Camonica about 8 m. 
below Edolo. 


Route E. 

EDOLO TO SONDRIO, BY THE APRICA 
PASS. 

About 17 m. to Tresenda—12 from thence to 
Sondrio. 

The excellent new road over the 
Aprica Pass is very convenient for 
travellers who would combine a visit 
to Val Camonica with a tour in the 
Bernina Alps. The ascent from Edolo 
through the Val di Corteno, a lateral 
valley opening due E. of that place, 


is gradual, and nowhere very steep; 
and in about 10 m. the traveller reaches 
the summit of the Aprica Pass (4,052'). 
There is a very rough inn at the poor 
hamlet of Aprica, near the summit. 
The descent into Vail Tellina is much 
more abrupt than the ascent on the op¬ 
posite side, and the difference of level 
much greater. Near the point where the 
declivity becomes steep there is a very 
fine view reaching at least 30 m. 
along the course of the Adda, from a 
place called Belvedere, where there is a 
neat little country inn. The descent 
is effected by one long zigzag, and in 
one place a short tunnel is made to 
permit the passage of the new road. 
The road from Tresenda to Sondrio is 
described in § 36, Rte. E. 

Route F. 

PONTE DI LEGNO TO SANTA CATARINA, 
BY THE GAVIA PASS. 

The Route last noticed is convenient 
for those who are unable to achieve a 
moderate day’s walk ; but the present is 
in every way preferable for the moun¬ 
taineer, connecting, as it does, two dis¬ 
tricts that offer many objects of attrac¬ 
tion, by a wild and striking pass. In 
mounting from Ponte di Legno, which 
is about 1,500 ft. lower than Sta. Cata¬ 
rina, 7 hrs., exclusive of halts, should 
be allowed ; but when travelling in the 
opposite direction, a steady walker may 
accomplish the distance in about G hrs. 

A rough char-road is carried along 
the W. side of the valley, keeping at 
some height above the rt. bank of the 
Oglio till it approaches the village of 
Pezzo, which stands on rising ground 
above the opposite bank. NE. of the 
village a short glen leads to a low and 
easy pass— Pusso di Montozzo —lying 
between the Monte Tonale and the 
Monte Tozzo, over which runs a path 
that leads from Pezzo to Pejo in Val di 
Sole in less.than 4 hrs. Local tradition 
asserts that the now nearly bare slopes 
on either side of the Oglio were once 
covered with dense forests, which were 
destroyed by fire during some of the 




464 


LOMBARD ALPS. 


§ 39. VAL CAMONICA DISTRICT. 


wars that at many successive periods 
have been waged on this frontier of 
Lombardy The head of the valley of 
the Oglio from hence to the Gavia Pass 
is culled Veil Mazza. 

The traveller bound for the Gavia 
Pass should leave Pezzo on his rt. hand, 
and follow the track that keeps close to 
the 1. bank of the Oglio, till he meets 
the cart-road from that village at a 
chalybeate spring just below the nearly 
filled-up Lake of Silissi. At its N. end 
the appearance of the ground and the 
large blocks scattered over the valley, 
give colour to the tradition that 2,000 
sheep and several shepherds were here 
overwhelmed by a berg-fall. Here the 
cart-mad comes to an end, and a rough, 
but frequented track begins to wind up 
the mountain side. Nearly half-way 
in the ascent is a maso, or baita, where 
fresh milk is generally obtainable. The 
Val Mazza opens out at its head, and 
the chief sources of the Oglio are the 
streams that are seen to descend from 
small glaciers on the flanks of the 
mountains lying W. of the valley. The i 
highest of these is called on the Aus¬ 
trian map * Monte Gavia,’ and its height 
is stated on the authority of ‘Austrian 
Engineers ’ to be 11,752 ft The name 
does not appear to be known, at least | 
on this side of the mountain ; and the 
height, as the writer has assured him- j 
6 elf by levelling, is little, if at all, over i 
1 1,000 ft. Bearing a little to the 1. from 
t he track, the traveller gains a good view 
of the Lago Scuro, a dark tarn more 
than 7,000 ft. above the sea, whence 
Lsues a rivulet which is often deemed 
to be the source of the Oglio. 

The track keeps well to the rt., very 
stony towards the top, but not easily 
missed unless covered with snow. The 
passage is not at the centre of the 
broad trough that divides the high 
range of the Tresero to the rt., from 
the somewhat lower mountains to the j 
W., but lies over some flat ledges 
of rock, 100 ft. above the lowest 
point. The wooden cross marking the 
summit is about 8 600 ft. above the 
sea. The broad valley on the N. side 


of the pass is one of the most singular 
in the Alps, as it extends for several 
miles wfith a merely trifling inclination, 
although the torrent has cut a channel 
of vast depth in its centre. To the 1. 
of the path .and somewhat below it, is 
the Lago Bianco, a small lake formed 
by the melting of the snows. Its S. 
end lies close to the Watershed be¬ 
tween the Oglio and the Adda, but its 
stream flows through Val Gavia to the 
latter river. The tract now traversed 
has been compared to the summit of the 
Rawyl Pass, to which it offers some 
resemblance, though but a superficial 
one, as this is not a plateau, but a flat- 
bottomed valley enclosed between two 
parallel ridges. The summit of the 
pass, and the dreary tract extending 
through the head of Val Gavia, are ill- 
famed for the numerous fatal accidents 
that have befallen wayfarers overtaken 
bv the tourmente on this shelterless 
w ilderness. Many small crosses record 
these events. One such on the N. side 
of the pass marks the place where the 
body of a widow was found whose 
husband had perished years before in 
the same manner, a few hundred yards 
from the same spot. Another records 
the Late of two monks. 

Two paths lead from the summit to 
Santa Catarina. The Senter di Tre¬ 
sero. keeping to the E. side of the 
valley, is somewhat longer, but much 
easier, and is almost universally pre¬ 
ferred. On the opposite side is the 
so-called Senter di Gavia, said to be 
very rough, and to involve several as¬ 
cents and descents. For a considerable 
distance the Senter di Tresero lies over 
a flat waste paved with small fragments 
of stone, and watered by rivulets from 
the snowfields on the adjoining slopes. 
Only here and there the brilliant colours 
of the gentian, primrose, and androsace 
give variety to the scene. Leaving on 
the rt. hand the rough slopes that lead 
up to the Sforzellina Pass (§ 37, Rte. B), 
the traveller approaches the opening 
through which the Gavia Glacier pro¬ 
trudes its icy tongue close to the track. 
The main torrent from the La^o 

O 





ROUTE G .— BRENO TO LODE ONE. 


465 


Bianco has by this time cat a trench of 
extraordinary depth in the centre of the 
valley, which widens out, and leaves a 
mere shelf along which the track is 
carried. After passing the Ponte di 
Preda, close to the cascade that falls 
from the glacier, the path still keeps 
nearly at a level till it reaches a point 
where the traveller looks down upon 
the head of Val Furva, and the sight 
of pine forests and green pastures re¬ 
lieves the sternness of the scene. A 
very steep descent leads down to the 
Ponte della Vacca, the only bridge 
over the main torrent. After crossing 
this, a slight ascent leads over the 
shoulder of the mountain, and the path 
descends through a larch forest to 
Santa Catarina (§ 37, Rte. B). 

Route G. 

breno to lodrone, by the CROCE 

DOMINI PASS. 

The Pass of Croce Domini, and the 
paths leading to it on either side, 
nearly coincide with an orographic and 
also a geological boundary, between 
the high granitic ranges that extend 
northward from thence to Val Ver- 
miglio, and the sedimentary rocks that 
enclose the so-called Brescian va leys. 
On the W. side the track here noticed 
is not particularly interesting; but the 
beautiful valley of the Calfaro, by 
which the traveller descends to the 
Chiese, is scarcely to be surpassed for 
varied and picturesque scenery. In 
going to the pass from Breno, it is not 
necessary to descend along the Oglio 
to the junction of the torrent from the 
pass. There is a shorter track by 
Pedarzo to Prestine, and the way then 
lies along the rt. bank of the torrent, 
through a glen which, at least in its 
upper part, is somewhat bare and de¬ 
ficient in striking features. The Croce 
Domini Pass, about 6,500 ft. in height, 
is the most direct way from Val 
Caraonica into the valley of the Chiese, 
but is little frequented. Primula caly- 
cina. P. longijlora r and other rare plants, 

PART II. H 


may be gathered on the ridge a little 
above the summit. Some redoubts 
were thrown up here by the Austrians 
in 1859. The mule-track, after de¬ 
scending the grassy ridge at the summit 
of the pass, follows a circuitous course, 
keeping for a considerable distance an 
easterly direction, until it reaches the 
upper valley of the Calfaro. The way 
is thenceforward about due S., by a track 
along that stream. A more direct course 
from the pass may be taken through 
a wild glen called Val Satiguinera, 
which descends SE. to join the Calfaro 
several miles lower down than the regu¬ 
lar path. In ascending from Bagolino, 
there is not much difficulty in find¬ 
ing the way by the E. slope of Val 
Sanguinera; but it might be difficult to 
descend through it without local know¬ 
ledge, and the scenery of the ordinary 
path is probably at least as interesting. 

The valley of the Calfaro, which 
penetrates by various branches into 
the group of high peaks to the north, 
whose summits range from 8,000 to 
9,000 ft , abounds with exquisite pic¬ 
tures, and may well induce the lover 
of nature to devote a few days to its 
exploration. The main torrent forms 
some remarkably fine waterfalls : the 
lowest, about 1 hr. above Bagolino, 
near the point where the track crosses 
to the 1. bank by a stone bridge, would 
probably gain celebrity if it were not 
very difficult to obtain a favourable view 
of it. Mines have been worked at 
various points in the valley, but they 
do not appear to have been productive, 
and except a few scattered houses of 
the poorest class, there is no village, or 
even hamlet, found until the travel¬ 
ler descends to Bagolino. Tolerable ac¬ 
commodation is found here at a rustic 
Inn (kept by Ciappana?). As in other 
similar places, some patience is ne¬ 
cessary for the traveller arriving in a 
place where there is no provision for 
his reception, and a foreign visitor is 
a rare and almost unknown animal. 
The position of the village (about 
2,000 ft. above the sea), on the brow 
of a steep declivity overlooking the 
H 



4G6 


LOMBARD ALPS. § 39. 

deep valley of the Calfaro, is very 
beautiful. A char-road has been con¬ 
structed through the lower part of the 
valley, but the judicious traveller who 
traverses it early in the morning or 
late in the afternoon will prefer to 
walk. About l m. below the village 
the well-made new road crosses to the 
rt. bank, and the valley gradually opens 
as a rapid descent leads down towards 
the Lake of Idro. The traveller who 
would enter the Austrian territory by 
the bridge of Lodrone may save time 
by a short cut down grassy slopes, 
under the shade of fine chestnut trees, 
and in 1 hr. from Bagolino will reach 
the bridge which is the boundary of 
Tyrol (see § 40, Rte. A). The 1. 
bank of the Calfaro belongs to Austria 
for a distance of about 1 m. only : the 
frontier line then turns to N., leaving 
the Mte. Caren (6,406') over Bagolino 
on the Italian side of the boundary. 


Route H. 

TSEO TO GARDONE IN VAL TROMPIA. 

The traveller wishing to visit Val 
Trompia (described in the next Rte.) 
from the Lake of Iseo has a choice of 
many agreeable paths. The easiest is 
reached from the village of lseo by 
mounting the wooded hills above the 
lake, which are traversed by many 
rough paths. In | hr. he will fall into 
a bridle-path leading to Polaveno , a 
poor village in the hills, halt-way be¬ 
tween Iseo and Gardone. The de¬ 
scent to the Val Trompia is very 
agreeable, and there is a tolerable road 
all the way. Gardone is H hr. de¬ 
scending from Polaveno. The whole 
walk takes from 3 to 3^ hrs. 

Another much rougher path leads 
from Pisogne at the head of the L. of 
Iseo to Bovegno in 5 hrs. 


YAL CAMONICA DISTRICT. 

Route I. 

BRESCIA TO LODRONE, BY VAL 

TROMPIA. 

Carriage-road to S. Colombano 30 m_Bridle- 

track to Bagolino 3$ hrs.—Carriage-road thence 
to Lodrone li hr. 

The Val Trompia, producing the 
greater portion of the iron used in the 
manufacture of arms for which Brescia 
has long been famous, lies immediately 
to the N. of that city, and is drained 
by the Mella , a stream that enjoys the 
distinction of being mentioned in the 
verses of Virgil and Catullus. The 
scenery of the valley is pleasing; and 
the route here indicated is the most 
direct, and perhaps the most agreeable, 
for entering the Italian Tyrol from 
Brescia. 

There is a good road as far as Bo¬ 
vegno, which has been lately continued 
as far as S. Colombano at the head of 
the valley. An omnibus plies daily 
between Brescia and Bovegno, leaving 
the city at 3.30 p.m., and returning at 
4.30 a.m., on the following morning. 
The hills begin to rise on either side of 
the Mella very soon after the traveller 
leaves Brescia, but do not deserve the 
name of mountains until he approaches 

Gardone (Inn: Stella d’Oro, in the 
little piazza, good and reasonable), the 
principal place in the valley, 12 Ita¬ 
lian or nearly 14 English m. from 
Brescia. The valley is rather thickly 
peopled, and there are many iron¬ 
works connected with the mines which 
are worked at many places in the moun¬ 
tains at the upper end. The road is 
carried all the way along the 1. bank of 
the Mella to Bovegno (accent on the first 
syllable). There is here a very fair inn. 
Above this village the scenery becomes 
more interesting; the torrent of the 
Mella brawls between siliceous rocks, 
probably referable to the verrucano ; 
and alpine plants, such as Silene rupes- 
tris, descend to the banks. The road 
passes Collio, a poor village about 4 m. 
from Bovegno, and ends about 2 m. 
farther at San Colombano , with several 
scattered groups of houses, and a small 



ADAMELLO DISTRICT. 


4f>7 


establishment, prettily situated, where j 
patients come in summer to drink the 
waters of a mineral spring. Here 
commences the ascent to the pass con¬ 
necting the head of Val Trompia with 
the valley of the Calfaro. There is a 
well-traced bridle-track which mounts 
by zigzags, keeping a direction nearly 
due E. between the Monte Maniva to 
the N., and the Dosso Alto, on the S. 
of the pass. The latter mountain has 
been visited by Zantedeschi and other 
botanists, who have found on it many 
of the rarest species of this district. In 
the upper end of this valley, and in 
that of Calfaro, the botanist will observe 
Arabis Halleri, here rather common. 
There is a shed at the summit of the 
pass where wayfarers usually halt for 
refreshment. In 1862 it was occupied 
by an old man who declared that he 
had spent fifty-six summers in the same 
place! 

The descent into the valley of the 
Calfaro is by a very rough track, which 
may, however, be avoided by short cuts 
in many places. The views gained 
throughout the way to Bagolino (Rte. 
G) are very beautiful, and the travel¬ 
ler may well be tempted to make that 
village his head-quarters for one or 
two days, in order to explore the up¬ 
per part of the Calfaro valley. The 
way to Lodrone is noticed in Rte. G. 
The hurried traveller who wishes to 
descend at once to Lodrone may pro¬ 
bably save some time by avoiding 
Bagolino. The writer believes that 
there is a track on the S. side of the 
valley by which the new road may be 
reached at or near the bridge by which 
it passes to the rt bank of the Calfaro 
below Bagolino. 

Route EL 

BRESCIA TO VESTONE IN VAL SABBIA. 

This Rte. is indicated here, although 
information as to details is completely 
defective, in order to call attention to 
the fact that there is a road, completed 

H H 


within the last few years, which offers 
a direct and agreeable way for a tra¬ 
veller wishing to visit the Lake of Idro, 
described in the next section, from 
Brescia. It is carried through a hilly 
country commanding fine views at 
some points, and traverses Presec/Uc 
before reaching the main road through 
Yal Sabbia at Barghe. That hamlet 
is about 3 m. below Vestone, which is 
farther noticed in § 40, Rte. A. 


SECTION 40. 

ADAMELLO DISTRICT. 

Travellers who attain to a com¬ 
manding height on the S. side of the 
Pennine Alps usually see in the far east 
an extensive range of snowy Alps 
crowned by some high conical peaks. 
One after another has satisfied himself 
with the assurance that the most pro¬ 
minent of these peaks must be the 
Orteler Spitze, and people have come 
to fancy that they recognised the pecu¬ 
liar form of that mountain, although 
in fact it is so situated that nothing 
beyond the bare summit of the peak 
can be seen from the westward above 
the range of Monte Cristallo. A re¬ 
ference to the map and a compass would 
usually have sufficed to show the care¬ 
ful traveller that the snowy range in 
question lies considerably to the S. of 
the Orteler group, and might perhaps 
have had the effect of sooner drawing 
attention to one of the most extensive 
of the higher masses of the Alps, which 
we here distinguish by the name of its 
best known summit as the Adamello 
group. The absolute height of the 
peaks, not quite attaining 11,700 ft., 
does not give a measure of the vast 
mass which is here lifted above the 
level of the surrounding valleys, and 
of the great tracts of glacier and neve 
that feed two of the most considerable 
2 





4C8 


LOMBARD ALPS. § 40. ADAMELLO DISTRICT. 


streams of the Southern Alps — the 
Sarca and the Chiese. On the W. side 
several short glens descend towards 
Val Camonica, and bear down tribute 
to the waters of the Oglio ; but the 
larger portion of the drainage of the 
glacier region is carried into the Sarca, 
and ultimately reaches the Lake of 
Garda. 

The principal mass to which the 
foregoing remarks apply is formed of 
a remarkable granite, highly crystalline 
in texture, containing much amphibo¬ 
lite, and, so far as the writer has seen 
it, nowhere exhibiting the gradual 
transition into gneiss which is so com¬ 
monly visible in the Alps. Extending 
southward through the ridges that 
enclose the head waters of the Chiese, 
the same granite forms on the one side 
the peak of Monte del Castello, and 
the adjoining summits to the S.; and 
on the other, the Monte Grisa (9,749'), 
and the range at the head of Val di 
Breguzzo. There is reason to think 
that this is by far the most considerable 
mass of true granite in the Alps. 

A zone of metamorphic rocks is 
traceable along the E. side of the gra¬ 
nitic range, and may possibly ext -nd 
some way along the N side, in Val 
Vermiglio ; but towards Val Camonica 
the granite appears to come in imme¬ 
diate contact with the gneiss that pre¬ 
vails in the upper part of that valley. 

A glance at the geological map 
shows that a line drawn SSYV. from 
Dimaro in Val di Sole to Condino on 
the Chiese nearly coincides with the 
boundary between the metamorphic 
rocks, above spoken of, and the jurassic 
limestone, which is here for the most 
part converted into dolomite. It will 
be observed that the same boundary also 
coincides with a line of depression occu¬ 
pied by four valleys which are connected 
by two low passes, extending about 
50 m. nearly in a straight line to Vcs- 
tone in Val Sabbia. It may also be 
remarked that the same line is parallel 
to the valley of the Adige, the Lake of 
Garda, and the principal portion of Val 
Camonica. 


The district briefly described in the 
present Section includes the granitic 
range whose chief summits are the 
Presanella (11,688'), the Adamello 
(11,667 ), and the Care Alto (11,352'); 
and, in addition to this, the high mass 
of dolomite mountains lying between 
Val Rendena and Val Selva to the W., 
and the Val di Non and the Adige 
to the E. We also include the beau¬ 
tiful region extending southwards to¬ 
wards the plains of Lombardy between 
the Chiese and the Lake of Garda. 

It is impossible to look at the map 
of the district here defined without 
being struck by a characteristic pecu¬ 
liarity in the course of the two chief ri¬ 
vers and their tributaries. These flow 
either from NNE. to SSW. along the 
main valleys, or else through narrow 
clefts whose direction is nearly from 
W. to E., so that the course of each of 
the principal streams makes one or 
more sharp elbows. 

If the writer is not misled by per¬ 
sonal predilection, the portion of the 
Alps now to be described is one of 
those most abounding in attractions. 
The peaks do not rival the greater 
giants of the A Ips; but they rise out of 
low valleys, so that their relative height 
is very great. The scenery of Val 
Rendena is pre-eminent for the charm 
of variety. On the one side is a vast 
glacier region, but partially explored, 
whose peaks are probably all accessible; 
on the other is a group of dolomite 
mountains, of which the highest—the 
Brenta Alta (10,77V)—is inferior only 
to the Marmolata in height, and fully 
equals it in the boldness and inacces¬ 
sibility of its towers and pinnacles. 

Much additional information as to 
this district has been recently obtained. 
The writer has paid to it several too 
hurried visits, but has not been for¬ 
tunate in regard to weather. He has 
been lately followed by several Eng¬ 
lish mountaineers, and by Lieut -Col. 
von Sonklar, but the most persevering 
and successful explorer has been Lieut.. 
Julius p ayer, to whose valuable paper, 
published in Petermann’s ‘ Geograph- 





ROUTE A-VAL SELVA. 


4C>9 


ifcche Mittheilungen,’ the reader is 
referred for details. 

The stranger in this district is apt 
to encounter more difficulty than usual 
in the Alps in ascertaining the names 
of the mountains. As a general rule, 
the native mountaineer takes no es¬ 
pecial notice of the peaks of the Alps. 
At an early period the mountain pas¬ 
tures to which he resorts with his 
cattle had acquired distinct names, as 
did also the passes leading from one 
valley to another; hut in the great 
majority of cases the names of the 
summits have remained vague and un¬ 
certain, except where regular surveys, 
or at least the visits of strangers, have 
fixed specific names to certain peaks. 
In this district scarcely any strangers 
have been seen, excepting the officers 
employed on the Austrian Survey, who 
have usually been unfamiliar with the 
language of the people, so that the 
nomenclature remains in its natural 
unsettled condition. The native term 
vedretta , applied either to a glacier 
or snow-field, is collectively given 
to portions of the snowy range in¬ 
cluding several peaks, and has been 
incorrectly attached to one or other of 
these by the persons engaged in map¬ 
ping the district. 

The writer is happy to adopt nearly 
all the names proposed by Lieut. Payer, 
save as regards the two great glaciers 
at the head of Val di Genova, for which 
he has maintained the designations 
adopted by von Sonklar, since followed 
by Mr. Tuekett, and by himself, and 
certainly used by some, if not all, of 
the herdsmen at the head of the valley. 

The heights of the peaks in this 
group do not appear to have been ac¬ 
curately determined, and it is ques¬ 
tionable whether those of the Austrian 
Kataster are not too low by nearly 200 
ft. There is no guide in Val Rendena 
who can be safely recommended as a 
companion in glacier excursions. Mat- 
teo and Bonifazio Nicolosi of Molveno 
arc good cragsmen, and with some 
practice may perhaps become efficient 
guides. Fair accommodation is found in I 


most of the villages in this district, 
and there are good country Inns in the 
larger places, such as Storo, Condino, 
Tione, &c. The best head-quarters 
for a mountaineer are found at Pinzolo, 
near the head of Val Rendena. 


Route A. 

MALE TO SALO ON THE LAKE OF 
GARDA, BY VAL RENDENA AND THE 
LAKE OF IDRO. 


Dimaro 

Hr«.’ 

walking 

. 1 

Eng. 

milei 

3 

Campiglio . 

3 

X 

Pinzolo 

. 3 

s 

Tione . 

• 31 

m 

13i 

Condino . . 

• H 

Lodrone 

2 

« 

Vestone . 

. 4 

12 

Salo . . 

. 4 

12 

A tolerably good 

25 

carriage- 

73 

-road it 


all the way, except between Dimaro 
and Pinzolo, where there is a frequented 
bridle-track. The route here laid 
down lies for the most part along, or 
very near to, the boundary between 
the older metamorphic rocks and the 
Jurassic limestone ; so that nearly all 
the way from Dimaro to the Lake of 
Idro the traveller has granite or meta¬ 
morphic rocks on his rt. hand, while 
on the other side crystalline limestone 
and dolomite form peaks that present 
a striking contrast to the others in 
shape and appearance. Close to Di¬ 
maro (§37, Rte. B) the Melledro issues 
from a narrow glen called Val Seim, 
and the way to Val Rendena is by a 
rough track that mounts rather rapidly 
along the base of a range of limestone 
crags. The W. side of Val Selva is 
densely wooded, as the name imports, 
but the axe has begun to devastate the 
primaeval forest. Towards the head of 
the glen, in boggy ground near the 
track, the botanist may gather three 
British plants — Andromeda polifolia , 
Carex paucijlora , and C. Umosa —all of 
them, but especially the first, very rare 
on the S. side of the Alps. The pass 
leading from Val Selva to the basin of 







470 


LOMBARD ALPS. § 4( 

the Sarca is a deep depression in the 
high range which elsewhere encloses 
the head of that river, and is not more 
than about 5,200 ft. in height. The 
ridge, locally called Ginevrie, is partly 
covered with wood, and an easy descent 
leads from it to the pilgrimage church 
and inn of La Madonna di Campiglio 
(4,955'). Rough but clean quarters, are 
found at this attractive spot, command¬ 
ing fine views of the Monte Spinale 
(8,198'), which is accessible without 
much difficulty; and the expedition 
may be recommended to the botanist, 
who will there find many of the cha¬ 
racteristic plants of the dolomite moun¬ 
tains. The valley leading to Pinzolo 
is called Val Nambino ; and its upper 
portion is open, affording most striking 
views of the neighbouring peaks. The 
Nambino torrent flows from a recess 
in the mountains S. and E. of the 
Monte Spinale; and by that way there 
is a pass to Val Sporeggio, a lateral val¬ 
ley of Val di Non (see Rte. H). The 
track to Pinzolo keeps to the slopes 
above the rt. bank of the Nambino, 
and leaves on the opposite side of the 
valley the opening of Val Brenta and 
Yal Agnola, which run deep into the 
mass of the Brenta Alta, whose won¬ 
derful towers and pinnacles remain in 
view all the way to the chapel of St. 
Antonio. The descent then becomes 
more rapid; the torrent issuing from 
Val Nambrone descends on the rt. from 
the recesses of the Presanella, joins 
the Nambino, and both together very 
soon enter the head of Val Rendena. 
The first hamlet is Caresolo, and about 
f m. farther the traveller reaches 
Pinzolo (2,514'). In this remote 
spot, persons not over-fastidious find 
very fair accommodation, much civi¬ 
lity, and very reasonable charges, at an 
Inn kept by Bonapace, which stands a 
little way to the 1. of the road in enter¬ 
ing the village by the road from Tione. 
Improvements will doubtless be made 
as the place becomes more frequented 
by strangers. Many days may be well 
spent here in excursions, a few of 
which are noted here, but each tra- 


. ADAMELLO DISTRICT. 

veller may strike out new expeditions 
for himself. 

Val Rendena, is the name of the inha¬ 
bited portion of the upper valley of the 
Sarca extending NNE. from Tione to 
Caresolo. It is one of the deepest of the 
interior valleys of the Alps, not rising 
more than 600 ft. in a distance of 10 m. 
Near Pinzolo the Sarca issues from 
Val di Genova , a glen clothed with 
dense forests, through which it has 
flowed for many miles nearly due E. 
In this wild valley there is no perma¬ 
nent dwelling, and it was almost un¬ 
known, save to the native hunters and 
herdsmen, until of late years, when 
the woods have been thinned to supply 
fuel for glass-works at Tione, and 
cart-tracks have been carried up it for 
a considerable distance (see next Rte.). 
The churches in Yal Rendena deserve 
the attention of the antiquary, and 
there are two near Pinzolo which the 
stranger should not omit to visit. That 
nearest the village, scarcely £ m. dis¬ 
tant, is dedicated to San Vigilio, and 
is covered within and without with fres¬ 
coes. Those outside, though suffering 
from time and neglect, are the most re¬ 
markable ; and portions of a Dance of 
Death, which are in tolerable preser¬ 
vation, and bear the date 1536, have 
considerable merit as works of art. 
The frescoes of the interior, illustra¬ 
tive of the life of St. Vigilio, are in¬ 
ferior in design. More interesting 
than this is the small church of San 
Stefano, also adorned with frescoes, 
and standing on a rock at the opening 
of Val di Genova. It appears to be very 
ancient,and contains a long inscription, 
recording the passage of Charlemagne 
through the valley with a body of 4,000 
knights, &c., and the Privilegium ac¬ 
corded to the church by that Emperor 
and the reigning Pope (Eugenius). 

Those who do not attempt the ascent 
of the Presanella may make an agree¬ 
able excursion, which will give them 
some insight into the topography of 
that fine mountain. Rather more than 
1 hr. from Pinzolo is a noble waterfall 
of the copious torrent from the Alp of 



ROUTE A.—VAL AGNOLA. 


471 


Nardis, where the minor streams arising 
from the snows of the Presanella, and 
several masses of glacier lying on its 
flanks, unite and fall in a succession of 
cascades into Val di Genova. A rough 
path mounts on the E. side of the water¬ 
fall, not commanding very favourable 
views, and continues to ascend, chiefly 
amidst wood, till, in 4| hrs., the malga 
of Nardis is reached. Some way to the 
1. of the path is another waterfall, which 
seems even finer than the first, but it 
would take some time to approach it. 

There can be no doubt that the Pre- 
sanella , here called Cima di Nardis 
(11,688'), is most easily accessible from 
the Vedretta di Nardis, which descends 
SE. from the peak. The summit 
was first reached in 1864 by Messrs. 
Freshfield, Beachcroft, and Walker, 
with Francois Devouassoud. Sleeping 
at a shepherd’s hut in Val Presena near 
Pizzano, they ascended by the W. side 
of a small glacier to a pass, the Passu 
di Cercen (10,030’?) of Payer—not to 
be confounded with that of the same 
name between Rabbi and Pejo. Turn¬ 
ing eastwards, they climbed steep ice- 
slopes to the arete connecting the E. or 
highest peak with the W. summit. 
The former was attained by the some¬ 
what difficult arete in hrs. from the 
col. The second ascent by Lieut. Payer 
was made about three weeks later. 
With three natives of the valley, he 
slept at the highest hut in Val Rocchetia. 
From thence they climbed to a depres¬ 
sion, seen from Pinzolo, between the 
Cima delle Rocchette (10,777 ), and a 
summit S. of it called Cima delle Gftiaje 
(9,880'). Keeping to the E. side of the 
former peak they reached the Vedretta 
di Nardis, crossed that glacier high up, 
and reached the peak from the E. side, 
by snow-slopes overlooking the head of 
Val Nambrone. 

The traveller who would vary his 
way back to Pinzolo, may mount for 
some distance above the malga to a gap 
in the steep ridge to the rt. called La 
Porta dell' Amola, which is occasionally 
used by the herdsmen to pass from the 
Alp of Nardis to that of Amola at the 


head of Val Nambrone. It is marked 
by a small wooden cross, and is about 
9,000 ft. in height. Val Nambrone is 
a very wild steep glen, with several 
branches, each of which leads to one or 
more small alpine lakes. The descent 
is rapid, but the way is rather long, 
and 4 hrs. may be allowed for return¬ 
ing from the malga to Pinzolo. 

In marked contrast to the scenery of 
the granitic ranges, the Brenta Alta , 
with its towers and crags of dolomite, 
rises E. of Pinzolo, but is divided from 
Val Rendena by a much lower second¬ 
ary range parallel to the direction of 
the main valley. A very agreeable 
expedition may be made by following 
the track through Val Nambino for 
about l| hr. from Pinzolo, and then 
turning abruptly to the southward 
through the short and very picturesque 
glen of Val Agnola , lying between the 
main mass of the Brenta Alta and the 
secondary ridge dividing it from Val 
Rendena. At the head of this gleu 
the traveller, by bearing to the 1., may 
rea'ffi a wild hollow in the mountain 
where rocks and vast piles of debris 
are surmounted by a small glacier 
lying on the S side of one of the 
higher peaks of the Brenta Alta. By 
keeping well to the 1. along the base 
of some nearly vertical rocks, it is not 
difficult to reach the glacier without 
danger, and by that way it may be 
possible to attain the top of the peak in 
question, which is not, however, the 
highest, and which is separated from 
the adjoining summits by vertical clefts 
of great depth. It is dangerous to ap¬ 
proach the small glacier by climbing 
the rocks below it, as masses of ice are 
occasionally detached, especially during 
the warmer hours of the day. Instead 
of bearing to the 1. at the head of Val 
Agnola, the traveller, by keeping due 
S., will reach a tolerable path that 
turns to the rt., or about due W., lying 
for some distance nearly at a level, 
and leads him to the head of a short 
glen or recess in the mountains, where 
several small streams unite to form a 
torrent that flows into Val Rendena 







472 


LOMBARD ALPS. 


§ 40. ADAMELLO DISTRICT. 


about 1^ ra. below Pinzolo. The upper 
part of this recess is called Brenta 
dell’ Orso, and it offers the most direct 
way for approaching the Brenta Alta 
from Pinzolo, as but a short descent is 
required to reach the above-mentioned 
hollow immediately below the higher 
peaks of the mountain. If the traveller 
w r ho has attained the head of Yal Agnola 
leaves on his rt. handthe track to Brenta 
dell’ Orso, and continues to mount to¬ 
wards the S., he will reach in about 
1 hr. more the summit of a ridge called 
Prii Fiori, overlooking the head of Val 
Dalcon, which joins the Sarca about 
1 m. W. of istenico (Rte. D). By that 
way,-though it requires more time, the 
traveller leaving Pinzolo may reach 
the Baths of Comano (Rte. D). The 
shortest way for returning to Pinzolo 
from the Pra Fiori is by Brenta dell’ 
Orso. Many rare plants may be ga¬ 
thered on the rocks of the Brenta Alta, 
which mountain appears to be the 
western limit of several of the species 
supposed to be peculiar to the dolomitic 
region between the Adige and the 
sources of the Drave. The following 
species are here found exclusively on 
calcareous rock :—Papaver pyrenaicum, 
Arab is pumila , Dentaria polyphylla , Al- 
sine austriaca and A. lanceolata , Clier- 
leria imbricata, Cerastium ovatum , Po¬ 
tent ilia nitida , Saxifraga sedoides . 
Peucedanum austriacum , Ilcracleum pol- 
linianum, Crepis Jacquini , Phyteurna 
coinosum.Pcederota Bonurota, Euphrasia 
tricuspidata, Carex baldensis, and Ses- 
leria sphcerocephala. Near the ridge of 
Brenta dell’ Orso, the three European 
species of Rhododendron, R. Jerrmji- 
neum , R. hirsutum, and R. chamce- 
cistus, may be seen growing very near 
together a very unusual association. 
Lower down, on rocks above the 
highest chalet (malga), grows Arte¬ 
misia lanuta. 

Another excursion to be made from 
Pinzolo is to the Lake of San Giuliano, 
lying high up in the mountains on the 
W. side of Val Rendena. It is possible 
to descend from it to Strembo, lower 
down in the main valley. If it be 


practicable to reach the upper part of 
Yal di Borzago, and then descend to 
Pelugo, the circuit could not fail to 
offer very fine scenery. 

Most travellers keep to the road from 
Pinzolo to Tione, although it is possible 
to follow a track along the E. bank of 
the Sarca nearly all the way. The vil¬ 
lages and hamlets follow each other in 
rapid succession. The comparatively 
dense population of this and the adjoin¬ 
ing districts is supported by the migra¬ 
tion to the large towns of many young 
people of both sexes. The upper valley 
of the Sarc i, and that of the Chiese, 
as far down as Condino, make up the 
district called Giudicaria, from the fact 
that for many centuries it retained local 
rights, and separate administrative in¬ 
stitutions, under local magistrates, sub¬ 
ject to the bishops of Trent. 

Near Pieve di Val Rendena , which 
possesses the principal church of the 
valley, is shown the site, marked by 
an ancient church, where St. Vigilius, 
who first preached the Gospel in these 
parts, was stoned. At Peluyo (2,144') 
a short way below Pieve, is the opening 
of Val di Borzago. Through this the 
first ascent of the Care Alto (11,352'), 
the third in height, but the boldest in 
form of the granitic peaks of this dis¬ 
trict, was effected in 1865 by Messrs. 
Sedley Taylor, and Montgomery. As¬ 
cending by a path that crosses a 
shoulder of mountain at a great height 
above the 1. bank, they slept at a com¬ 
fortable chalet on that side of the valley. 
On reaching the glacier they worked 
obliquely across it till they reached the 
NW. arete, and attained the top by 
cutting steps up extremely steep ice- 
slopes. About 2 m. lower down is the 
opening of the Val di San Valentino, 
leading to the upper end of Val di Fum 
(Rte. C). In descending gently from 
Villa to Tione, the traveller will ob¬ 
serve (jurassic ?) limestone on the W. 
side of the valley, with the strata 
tilted into a nearly vertical position. 
As a general rule, the valley coincides 
very nearly with the W. boundary of 
the secondary strata. Keeping at 



ROUTE A.—LAKE OF IDRO. 


473 


some distance from the Sarca, on 
undulating ground above its rt. bank, 
the road leads in 1 hr. from Villa to 
Tione (1,919'), the principal place of 
Val Rendena, and of the district of 
Giudicaria. There is here a very fair 
country Inn (Corona) with reasonable 
charges, but a new house (Cavallo 
Bianco?) was open in 1863: the land¬ 
lord is said to take undue advantage of 
strangers. The position of Tione is 
extremely picturesque. It is plainly 
seen from the neighbourhood of the 
village, that the true line of the main 
valley is that which extends S3W. in 
the same direction as Val Rendena. 
But, instead of finding its way in that 
direction, the Sarca turns abruptly 
somewhat N. of E., and descends to 
Le Sarche by the remarkable cleft de¬ 
scribed in Rte. D. The road to the 
Lake of Idro ascends gently from 
Tione above the 1. bank of the Arno, 
as the stream is called which unites 
near Bondo the copious torrent issuing 
from Val Breguzzo with a lesser stream 
descending from Val Gavardina (Rte. 
F). The road soon reaches, at Ron- 
cone, the low ridge (about 2,28u') that 
separates the Arno from the Chiese, 
and then descends by a rather more 
rapid slope to the opening of Val 
Daone , an important lateral valley, 
through which the principal source of 
the Chiese flows from the glaciers at 
the head of the Val di Fum (Rte. C). 
A considerable number of villages and 
hamlets are grouped about the point 
where the Chiese enters the main val¬ 
ley through which it descends to the 
Lake of Idro. The chief of these is 
Pieve di Buono, situated on the main 
road. Amidst very beautiful scenery, 
the traveller continues his route to 
Conditio (1,446'), the chief place in 
the upper valley of the Chiese, with 
several Inns, of which the largest (Alb. 
della Torre) supplies very fair accom¬ 
modation. A geologist w’ould find 
interesting occupation in tracing the 
distribution of the erratic blocks from 
the range of the Adamello and Pre- 
sanella through the extensive district 


in which they are more or less abun¬ 
dant. If the writer is not misled, a 
careful study of the subject may lead 
to important conclusions. These er¬ 
ratics are so abundant, and of such 
large size, that they have been exten¬ 
sively applied to economical purposes, 
and in Condino and other villages the 
traveller will observe the remarkable 
granite in question, here called pietra 
salaccia , universally employed for door¬ 
posts, lintels, flags in doorways, and 
various other uses. The erratics of the 
main valley have in great measure dis¬ 
appeared, being those readiest to hand, 
and exposed to many agents of destruc¬ 
tion ; but they still exist in abundance 
on both slopes of the valley of the Chiese, 
up to at least 1,000 ft. above the river. 
See further remarks in Rte. E. Leaving 
to the 1. the bridge leading to Storo, the 
road is carried along the rt. bank of the 
Chiese to Lodrone, a small village N. of 
the Calfaro, which here descends from 
Bagolino (§ 39, Rte. G) to join the 
Chiese. The first-named stream here 
forms the frontier between Italy and 
Austria, and custom-house officers 
await the traveller on either side of the 
bridge. On the opposite side of the 
Chiese the Austrian frontier extends 
down to the N. end of the Lake of Idro. 
On approaching the lake, the scenery 
of the valley, though still beautiful, 
loses much of the boldness that has 
hitherto characterised it. The moun¬ 
tains subside to a lower level, and are in 
great part clothed with deciduous trees. 

The Lake of Idro is the smallest of 
lakes lying in the line of the greater 
valleys that descend to the plain of N. 
Italy, and lies higher than any of them. 
It is about 7 m. in length, little more 
than 1 m. in its greatest width, and 
about 965 ft. above the sea. The short 
valleys and dells on the E. side of the 
lake are remarkable for the richness of 
their flora, which includes many very 
rare plants, mostly the same that 
are characteristic of the flora of Val 
Vestino (Rte G). The geologist or 
botanist wishing to examine the glen 
above Bondone should do so from Lo- 




474 


LOMBARD ALPS. § 40. ADAMELLO DISTRICT. 


drone, before he has passed the Italian 
frontier; while the Monte Stino, lying 
in Italy, may better be visited by taking 
a boat from Anfo, and landing at the 
opposite side of the lake. 

[Bondone is a remarkably picturesque 
village, perched on the summit of a 
very steep rock just above the N. end 
of the Lago d’Idro, and nearly 1,000 ft. 
above its level. Erratic blocks of 
granite, and the other rocks prevailing 
in the valley of the Chiese, extend 
some way above the level of the village. 
By the glen called Val Bondone the 
traveller may reach Magasa, at the 
head of Val Vestino (Rte. G), over the 
ridge of the Monte Tombea, or by 
bearing to the 1. will approach the 
Cima Spessa, commanding a fine view 
of the valley of the Clnese and the 
neighbouring ranges. Besides many 
other interesting plants, the botanist 
may gather here a curious Cichorace- 
ous plant — Hypochoeris Facchiniana of 
Ambrosi.] 

The carriage-road is carried along 
the W. shore of the Lake of Idro, above 
which rises about midway the pictu¬ 
resque castle of Rocca d'Anfo, and a 
little farther S. the village of Anfo is 
passed. Soon after escaping from the 
lake, the Chiese forces its way in foam¬ 
ing rapids through a barrier of red 
6late, and thenceforward pursues a 
sinuous course on its way to water the 
plain of Lombardy between Brescia and 
Lonato. Between the lake and the 
plain, the valley drained by the Chiese 
is called Val Sabbia, a fruitful district, 
formerly rich in wine and silk, but it 
has suffered by the recent epidemics. 
The chief place is Vestone. ‘ Travellers 
should beware of Lecchi, innkeeper, 
near the (south) gate of Vestone. There 
is another Inn farther on (Tre Spade), 
recommended in preference.’—[M.] 
The way from Vestone to Said is a 
very agreeable drive, when the heat is 
not excessive. The road soon crosses 
to the 1. bank of the Chiese, and passes 
Barghe, Sabbio, and Volzano, besides 
other smaller places. Nearly 3 m. 
below the last-named village the road 


to Said turns abruptly to the 1., and 
rather unexpectedly descends a short 
but steepish slope to reach the town. 

From Said (Inn : Gambero, good), 
an omnibus plies twice daily to Brescia. 
For the Lake of Garda, see Alpine 
Guide, Part III. 


Route B. 

PINZOLO TO EDOLO, BY VAL DI GENOVA. 

As mentioned in the last Rte. the 
inhabited portion of the upper valley 
of the Sarca terminates at Caresolo, 
the highest village in Val Rendena. 
Here the river makes one of those sharp 
bends characteristic of the orography 
of this district, and the Val di Genova 
through which it descends from its 
parent glaciers opens nearly due E. of 
that village. Until lately, unknown 
even by name to most Alpine travellers, 
this valley is surely destined to attract 
many future visitors, if the combination 
of all the elements of picturesque beauty 
suffices to recommend it. Nowhere 
else, not even in the Italian valleys of 
Vlonte Rosa, is the rich foliage of the 
chestnut brought so nearly into com¬ 
bination with the scenery of the ice- 
region. If it be true that no first-rate 
peaks are in view from the floor of the 
valley, the combination of forest and 
craig with glaciers of the grandest 
characters, and frequent waterfalls, 
any one of which would make the for¬ 
tune of a Swiss valley, entitle this to 
rank among the most beautiful in the 
Alps. The increasing demand for 
timber to supply glassworks at the open¬ 
ing of the valley first set the axe of the 
woodcutter to woik. This has led to the 
establishment of several sawmills, and 
a rough cart-track has been carried for 
several miles up the valley. The best 
mountaineer here is probably a chamois 
hunter, named Fantoma, but it seems 
that his character doe6 not stand high, 
and the w riter cannot recommend him 
as a guide. Girolamo Botteri, once an 




ROUTE B.—VAL DI GENOVA. 


475 


active sportsman, but quite incompetent 
on ice, a man of substance, respected 
by his neigh hours, has much local 
knowledge, and may be consulted with 
advantage. He accompanied Lieu¬ 
tenant Payer throughout his excursions 
in 1864, but is slow, and was found an 
incumbrance in glacier expeditions. 
Cesare Caturani. who has been em¬ 
ployed by Lt.-Col. Sonklar. and by the 
writer, knows the valley well, and may 
be useful as a porter, but is no moun¬ 
taineer. 

A slight ascent, passing the Church 
of St. Stephen (Rte. A), and the glass¬ 
works, leads from Pinzolo to the en¬ 
trance of Val di Genova. For nearly 
2 hrs. the track keeps to the 1. bank, pass¬ 
ing close to the waterfall of Nardis (Rte. 
A). About 1 hr. farther, on the oppo¬ 
site side, near to the sawmills of Casol, 
are the still finer falls of Laris, formed by 
the torrent, from the extensive Vedretta 
di Laris, which springs over three suc¬ 
cessive ledges of granite, measuring in 
the aggregate from 400 to 500 ft. in 
height. This part of the valley is 
known as Pian di Genova, being a 
nearly level tract about 3,650 ft. above 
the sea. Higher up the valley bends to 
NW. and the cart-road comes to an end 
on the rt. bank, at a spot called Ragada, 
where other sawmills are worked by 
the stream descending from a short and 
steep glen called Val de Fargorida. 
Hereabouts are a few patches of rye 
and flax, the only attempt at cultivation 
in the valley. The grandeur and 
beauty of the scenery constantly in¬ 
creases as the traveller advances. On 
his rt. hand he passes the opening of 
three narrow glens running up towards 
the Presanella. First comes Val Roc- 
chetta , through which Lieut Payer made 
his ascent; then Val Gabiol ; lastly, 
Val di Cercen , down which Mr. Fresh- 
field and his companions descended, 
after accomplishing the first ascent of 
the peak. Near the opening of the 
last-named glen, the main stream of the 
Sarea springs over a series of ledges, 
the highest of which forms a very fine 
fall. It is easy to approach within a 


few feet of the brink. Here the course 
of the Sarca forms the first of those 
sharp elbows for which it is remarkable 
throughout its career. In ascending 
the valley bends abruptly to $E., and 
the two great glaciers that close the 
head of the valley come suddenly into 
view. Between the ice falls that nearly 
meet at its base, rises the dark pyramidal 
summit of La Lobbia (9,696'), whose 
form recalls that of the Wellhorn as seen 
from Rosenlaui. It has been ascended 
by Lt.-Col. von Sonklar. The track soon 
reaches the malga of Bedole (5,079'), 
which, however, is abandoned in the 
height of summer. It is ill-situated for 
a view, as it lies immediately below a 
pine-covered mound (ancient moraine ?), 
which separates it from the Malga di 
1'enczia (5,331'J. B.), the highest in 
the main valley. The head of Val di 
Genova is enclosed on the NW. and W. 
sides by a range of granite precipices 
that are broken through only by one 
gap, giving passage to the final ice-fall 
of the Bedole Glacier. S. of the fall, 
portions of the upper glacier hang over 
the edge of very steep rocks, threaten¬ 
ing peril to any one who should at¬ 
tempt the escalade; and the glacier 
rests its rt. flank against vertical rocks 
at the base of La Lobbia. E. of this 
peak, the Matarotto Glacier falls due 
N. into the head of the valley, leaving 
but a narrow space between the bares 
of the two ice-falls. We here retain 
the name Vedretta di Bedole, used by 
the herdsmen and by von Sonklar for 
the larger glacier. This is the Ve¬ 
dretta del Mandron of Payer, and Ve¬ 
dretta di Caresolo of the Austrian 
military map, and including the great 
snow-fields at its head that feed also the 
glaciers of Adame and Salarno, is by 
far the most extensive in the Austrian 
Alps. Its eastern rival, here called Ve¬ 
dretta di Matarotto, is the Vedretta della 
Lobbia of Payer. The lower ice-fall of 
this glacier is perhaps not utterly imprac¬ 
ticable, as that of Bedole seems to be, 
and in any case it should not be diffi¬ 
cult to make a track along the E. base 
of the Lobbia at some height above the 



476 


LOMBARD ALPS. § 40. 

ice-fall, which would lead without much 
difficulty to the upper plateau, and 
much shorten the way to Val di Fum, 
or for the ascent of the Adamello. 

Three passes from the head of Val di 
Genova to Ponte di Legno in Val 
Camonica are known to the native 
hunters. All are approached by as¬ 
cending along the course of a torrent 
that falls into the valley from the N., a 
little above the malga of Bedole. After 
a steep climb of 1,800 ft., the traveller 
finds himself on a level with the top of 1 
the precipices enclosing the head of the 
valley, and ascending slightly in a west¬ 
erly direction, he may before long reach 
a shepherd’s hut, or Mandron, which has 
sheltered some explorers of this region. 

The easiest pass is, according to 
Payer, called Passo del Lago Ghiac- 
ciato (about 9,437'). A second pass 
(marked Pass A. on Payer's map) is 
apparently that traversed in 1867 by 
Mr. and Mrs. R. S. Watson, as to 
which the Editor has been favoured 
with notes. The way lies straight 
along the torrent mentioned above, 
leaving the Mandron at some distance 
to the 1. On gaining a view of the 
rugged range that encloses the upland 
basin in which he stands, the traveller 
sees three depressions, or possible 
passes, of which that lying most to the 
rt. is to be chosen. It is immediately 
on the W. side of a very steep rocky 
eminence (Corno del Lago Scuro?). 
The way mounts gently over rough, 
but not difficult, ground, passing by a 
small lake, which is rarely free from 
ice. The descent over glacier does 
not seem difficult. After f hr. this is 
left by the W.moiaine, and the Val delle 
Susine (mentioned below) is reached 
not far above Ponte di Legno. The 
local guide called this La Bocchetta, and 
knew no other way across the range. 
A third pass was traversed by the writer 
with C. Caturani. It lies much to the 1., 
or SW.. of the last, and some way N. 
of the P. del Lago Ghiacciato. Pass¬ 
ing N. of the Mandron, over the 
ridge called Dosso di Marocaro, and 
W. of a dark tarn called Lago Scuro, 


ADAMELLO DISTRICT. 

the pass is easily attained. The name 
Pisgana Pass, proposed in the Alpine 
Guide, is inappropriate, as the Monte 
Pisgana, or Piscanno, lies some way 
NE., and is not seen from the pass. 
Keeping to local usage, he proposes the 
name Bocchetta di Marocaro. He esti¬ 
mates the height at 9,680 fi. The 
descent is not very easy, unless there 
be a better way than that found when 
the clouds hung about the pass. He 
kept to the 1., and had a little trouble 
in getting down a steep face of rock 
coated with ice, that divides an upper 
from a lower shelf of glacier, sustained 
by steep and high buttresses of rock 
that rise to a great height above the 
floor of the valley. The scenery at the 
head of Val delle Susine is of extra¬ 
ordinary wildness. Its head is closed 
by a fine glacier, seemingly not diffi¬ 
cult of access. A slope covered with 
Alpine alder leads down to the pastures 
of the Val delle Susine, and Ponte di 
Legno is then easily reached in 7 or 8 
hrs. from Bedole. The stream de¬ 
scending to Ponte di Legno is called 
Narcanello , but the name Val di Nar- 
cane, given on the Austrian military 
map, is not known to the natives. The 
name Vedretta di Narcane, proposed 
by Payer for the glacier at its head, 
may well be retained. At the S. end 
of this glacier rises the 

Monte Mandron Alto (10,904'?). If 
there be a tolerably easy pass on the 
W. side of that peak, leading to the 
upper neve of the Bedole Glacier, the 
ascent of the Adamello might be made 
from Ponte di Legno, starting very early. 
No attempt seems to have been made to 
effect a pass over the range N. of the 
Adamello. called by Payer Corni del 
Confine. The Lagodi Avio may perhaps 
be reached by that way from Bedole. 

In 1864 l)r. Lorenz, with a hunter 
of Val Vermiglio, whom he commends 
as a guide, crossed the ridge between 
the Tonale Pass and Bedole, apparently 
by the pass called by Payer Passo di 
Presena (9,647'). This lies between 
the Corno del Lago Scuro (10,373'), 
ascended by M. Payer, and the Croz di 





ROUTE B.-THE GLACIERS OF VAL DI GENOVA. 


477 


Val Zigola (10,059'). The chief sum¬ 
mits between the latter and the Presa- 
nella are the Busazza (10,903'), and 
the Cima di San Giacomo (10,752'). 

The most tempting excursion for a 
mountaineer from the Val di Genova is 
the ascent of the Adamel/o (11,667'). 
This is the westernmost of three ad¬ 
joining peaks that rise a little on the S. 
side of the summit-level of the great 
snow-fields at the head of the Bedole 
Glacier. A portion of the same snow- 
field surrounds the three peaks on the 
W. and S. sides, feeding the Glaciers of 
Adame and Salarno that flow towards 
Val Saviore, and sending another 
branch westward to the head of Val di 
Malga. See § 39, Rte. A. The first 
ascent was made by Lieut. Payer in 1864 
from the Mandron hut (mentioned 
above). The second, from the malga 
of Bedole, was effected by Messrs. 
Tuckett, Fox, and Freshfield, in 1865. 
Both parties made a long circuit by the 
N. and W. sides of the Vedretta di 
Bedole, and crossed the great snow- 
fields to the foot of the Corno Bianco— 
the easternmost of the three adjoining 
summits. Lieut. Payer, whose guides 
remained behind, climbed this in mis¬ 
take for the Adamello, and afterwards, 
as did also Mr. Tuckett’s party, 
ascended the latter by its steep eastern 
face. TheS. side shows above the glacier 
a range of steep rocks, and the N. face 
sinks in formidable precipices towards 
the Lago di Avio. The W. side alone 
offers a gentle slope, not requiring the 
use of the ice-axe. Mr. Tuckett's 
party effected a difficult descent from 
the plateau by rocks to the rt. of the 
ice-fall that closes the head of Val di 
Miller, the highest branch of Val di 
Malga; and arrived at Edolo the same 
evening. It would perhaps be easier to 
reach the good inn at Cedegolo by de¬ 
scending to Val Saviore by the Glacier 
of Salarno, or that of Adame. From 
the ridge to the left of the latter, it is 
certainly possible to reach the head of 
Val di Fum. 

For the traveller who seeks to reach 
the Adamello from Pinzolo, without 


taking the head of Val di Genova on 
his way, the shortest way is to ascend 
the short glen called Val Fargorida, 
whose torrent joins the Sarca at Ra- 
gada. At the upper end is a malga 
which belongs, as do several others in 
the valley, to Girolamo Botteri. Here, 
at about 6,740 ft. above the sea,, there is 
better shelter for the night than at the 
Mandron above Bedole. The Vedretta 
di Fargorida, a small glacier overlooked 
on the SW. by the Crozzon di Laris 
(10,889') and on the SE. by the 
Crozzon del Diavolo (9,956'), closes the 
head of the glen. Between the two 
peaks is a gap, called by Payer Passo 
del Diavolo (9,541'), by which it may 
be possible to reach the Vedretta di 
Laris, lying on the S. side of the pass. 
The traveller going from the Malga to 
the Adamello, or to Val di Fum, leaves 
the glacier of Fargorida on his 1. hand, 
and ascends in a SSW. direction to the 
Passo dei Topeti (9,126 ). Rather 
steep slopes, nearly bare of snow, lead 
to the top, where the traveller finds 
himself on a level with the upper pla¬ 
teau of the Vedretta di Matarotto. 
This is divided from the Vedretta di 
Bedole by a high range, including four 
principal summits. The southernmost 
of these has been called Monte Fumo 
(10.682'), though that name does not 
seem to be known to the herdsmen in 
Val di Fum. The whole range from 
thence to the peak rising above the 
head of Val di Genova has been col¬ 
lectively called Lobbia; but Lieut. 
Payer, who was the first to traverse it, 
gives to the latter summit, the name 
Lobbia Bnssa (9,696'). S of this, 
and separated by a pass— Passo della 
Lobbia Bassa (9,541')—is the peak 
which he has called Lobbia Alta 
(10,578'). To this succeeds a broad 
snow col— Passo della Lobbia Alta 
(9,956'), followed by the Dosson di Ge¬ 
nova, attaining a height of 10,890 ft., 
the steep ridge extending southward to 
the Monte Fumo. The way from the 
Passo dei Topeti to the S. base of the 
Adamello lies in a straight line nearly 
due W., across the neve of Matarotto, 



LOMBARD ALPS. § 40. ADAMELLO DISTRICT. 


478 

over the Passo della Lobbia Alta, and 
then over the plateau at the head of the 
Bedole Glacier. The distance may be f 
accomplished in from 3 to 4 hrs., ac- 
cording to the state of the snow. 

The heights assigned to peaks and 
passes in this Rte. do not all rest on ac¬ 
curate observation, and may require 
further'verification. 

Route C. 

CONDINO TO EDOLO, BY VAL DAONE. 

It had often struck the writer as a 
very singular fact, that there should be 
a valley more than 20 m. in length 
without a village or hamlet, in a part 
of the Alps where the valleys are, as a 
general rule, deeply cut into the moun¬ 
tain ridges. Such, however, is the 
valley of the Chiese, as represented on 
the Austrian maps, above the point 
where it enters the main valley near 
Pieve di Bnono (see Rte. A). Having 
sought information from intelligent 
persons residing in the same district, 
he was led to believe that the valley in 
question has continued to the present 
time to be probably the least known of 
all the considerable valleys of the Alps. 
Excepting some of the officers engaged 
on the Austrian map, and one or two 
botanists who have visited the lower 
part of the valley, there is no reason to 
believe that any intelligent stranger 
has ever explored it. The writer 
was able to pay it a hurried visit in 
the beginning of July 1S63. That 
year was remarkable for the extraor¬ 
dinary quantity of snow that fell in 
this part of the Alps; and, as a general 
rule, the ridges enclosing the head of 
the valley, exposed to the full influence 
of the S. wind, are probably nearly 
clear of snow in summer; but the high 
plateau from whence arise the peaks of 
the Adamello and Care Alto, is perma¬ 
nently covered with glacier and neve, 
which extend to the head of Val di 
Genova. The portion of Lieut. Payer’s 
map representing the N. end of Val di 


Fum, by no means agrees with the 
writer’s recollection of the ground. 

The upper portion of the valley of 
the Chiese, from the glacier at its head 
nearly to the base of Monte del Cas- 
tello, is called Val di Fum; and from 
thence to Pieve di Buono, Val Daone. 
In the Austrian map, the boundary be¬ 
tween Tyrol and Lombardy is made to 
cross the valley, so as to give Val di 
Fum to Italy, and Val Daone to Tyrol. 
This may have originated in some 
claim of the people of Val Saviore, a 
tributary of Val Camonica, mentioned 
in § 39, Rte. A, to the alpine pastures 
of the former valley; but, according to 
the Tyrolese herdsmen, who now ex¬ 
clusively use those pastures, no such 
claim is known in practice. The fron¬ 
tier here follows the watershed between 
the Chiese and the Oglio; and Aus¬ 
trian custom-house officials occasionally 
make an expedition into Val di Fum, 
to check attempts at smuggling. 

The rocks on the W. side of the 
valley of the Chiese, between Storo 
and Pieve di Buono, consist of hard 
grits, sometimes passing into coarse 
conglomerate, of various shades of red, 
grey, and green, and in the lower part 
of Val Daone pass into a hard, fine¬ 
grained red schist, which has preserved 
very freshly the traces of glacial action. 
A rather rapid ascent leads from Pieve 
to the village of Daone, lying close to 
the opening of the valley ; and a tole¬ 
rable cart-track is carried for many 
miles along the N. side of the valley. 
Although there is no village, or even 
hamlet, above Daone, there are many 
scattered houses that are inhabited 
throughout the year. The scenery of 
Val Daone is of the highest order, 
gradually exchanging the softer and 
richer features of the lower valley for 
the extreme of ruggedness and wildness 
as it approaches the base of Monte del 
Castello. The cart-road has been 
constructed of late years in connection 
with large saw-mills, where 200 men 
are employed in summer, at a highly 
picturesque spot called Boazze, about 
3 lii-s. from Pieve di Buono. Here the 




ROUTE C.—VAL DI FUM. 


479 


traveller fairly enters into the granitic I 
region, announced to the eye by the 
hold forms of the mountains. The 
track passes near to one noble water¬ 
fall, and several others are seen higher 
up. Above Boazze the way is by a 
very rough path, sometimes not easily 
found, and mounts through a defile 
which has the appearance of being a 
cleft through the granitic mass that 
henceforward encloses the valley on 
both sides. The granite here is more 
varied in structure and appearance 
than in the Presanella range, some of 
it being finer in grain, and apparently 
containing less amphibolite. In one 
place the w riter noticed a curious gra¬ 
nitic conglomerate, including fragments 
of all sizes of different varieties of that 
rock, cemented together in a granitic 
matrix. In the way up the valley, the 
writer passed the recent remains of 
five considerable avalanches that had 
fallen during the winter or spring of 
1863, bearing down large trees, huge 
blocks of stone, and masses of rubbish; 
and in one place above Boazze he 
traversed what appeared to be the 
fragments of a rather recent berg-fall 
from the Monte del Castello. In boggy 
places, in the hollow's of the granite, 
Carer pauciflora, C. limosa , and some 
other interesting plants, were observed; 
but the flora is less varied than it 
usually is where the mountains are 
formed of sedimentary rocks. Not 
long after passing Boazze, the track 
crosses to the rt. bank of the Chiese, 
and thenceforward keeps to that side. 
Near the last ascent, where it passes 
close to a waterfall, and then attains 
the level of Val di Fum, a faint track 
turns to the 1., mounts to a tarn called 
Logo di Caf, and then crosses the 
ridge that separates it from a larger 
mountain lake, called Lugo d'Arno . 
The stream from that lake joins the 
main torrent of Val Saviore near a 
hamlet called Isola, and by that way 
the traveller may enter Val Camonica, 
at Cedegolo, nearly 9 m. S. of Edolo. 

The Val di Fum presents a striking 
contrast to Val Daone. Extensive 


pastures spread over the nearly level 
and broad floor of the valley, and on 
the lower slopes of the mountains on 
either side. Some clumps of larches 
have survived the avalanches and the 
improvidence of the herdsmen, who 
have doubtless destroyed much timber 
for fuel. The scenery would be some¬ 
what monotonous. if it were not for the 
very fine peak of the Care Alto, lying 
somewhat E. of the head of the valley, 
which rivets the attention of the travel¬ 
ler. Tliere are five chalets ( malghe ) in 
Val di Fum, and the writer passed the 
night at the highest of these, reached in 
about 4 hrs. from Boazze, inhabited 
during the summer by six or seven 
men and boys. No reliable information 
concerning the adjoining peaks or the 
passes leading into the neighbouring val¬ 
leys was obtainable from these or other 
herdsmen lower down in the valley, who 
were also consulted, except the fact that 
there is a way to the W. into Val Sa¬ 
viore without descending so low as the 
pass by the Lago d’Arno. By that way 
Messrs. Sedley, Taylor, and Mont¬ 
gomery entered the head of the valley 
in 1865, and in that way Cedegolo is 
easily reached in one day from Condino. 
On the following day the same travel- 
lei s effected the first passage from Val 
di Fum to Pinzolo. Unfavourable 
weather made it impossible to fix the 
position of the neighbouring peaks, so 
that the exact course taken by them is 
uncertain. The head of Val di Fum is 
closed by two branches of the Vedretia 
di Fum, issuing from the same plateau, 
but divided by a massive island of 
rock, whose summit rises little, if at all, 
above the level of the plateau. As¬ 
cending by the 1. side of the western 
branch of the glacier till they reached 
the point where it becomes an im¬ 
passable ice-fall, they completed the 
ascent to the plateau by a couloir, and 
by steep slopes of ice and rock. It is 
uncertain whether they reached the 
head of the Vedretta di Laris by a gap 
in the still unexplored ridge connecting 
the Care Alto with the Monte Folletiu 
(11,169'), the Como diCavento( 10,994'), 






480 


LOMBARD ALPS. § 40. 

and the Crozzon di Laris ( 10,889'), 
which form the western boundary of 
that glacier. It is perhaps more pro¬ 
bable that they took the easier course 
to Val di Genova through Val Far- 
gorida, which may be reached by the 
Passo dei Topeti, noticed in Rte. B, or 
by the Passo di Lares (9,230'J, lying 
farther S. and leading to the W. side 
of the Fargorida Glacier. 

The writer believes that the upper 
plateau connecting the glaciers of Be- 
dole and Adame is most easily reached 
from Val di Fum by the ridge dividing 
it from Val di Adame. 

The herdsmen pointed out to the 
writer a pass on the E. side of Val di 
Fum, some way lower down than the 
highest malga, leading, as they said, 
either to Val Rendena by the Val di 
San Valentino, or to Val Breguzzo. 
After reconnoitring from the ridge W. 
of the malga, the writer preferred to 
attempt wbat seemed to be an easy 
snow or glacier pass, lying about 
due E. of the malga, but concealed 
from it by a projecting mass of the 
mountain which lies in the way. He 
was informed that the pass in ques¬ 
tion overlooked the head of Val di 
Borzago, which opens into Val Ren¬ 
dena at Pelugo, but that it was impos¬ 
sible to descend into the head of that 
valley, owing to the vedretta (glacier 1 , 
which was impassable. Starting early 
next morning with a young man from 
Condino who knew nothing of the 
country, the writer reached the pass 
(about 9,300'), which he ventures to 
call Passo di San Valentino, in 24 hrs. 
from the malga, without the slightest 
difficulty, taking a course by the S. 
side of the above-mentioned promon¬ 
tory. The descent on the E. side is 
into Val di San Valentino, as the writer 
suspected and afterwards ascertained. 
It was also free from difficulty, but 
whether over glacier or not it was 
impossible to say, as the snow lay deep 
ou both sides. A rather steep barrier 
of rock was descended by keeping to 
the rt, and beiow this the snow ex¬ 
tended down to a little tarn which was 


ADAMELLO DISTRICT. 

almost concealed by ice and snow. 
Thence the way lay through a rocky 
valley, without the slightest trace of 
path, till the verge of a very steep bar¬ 
rier of rock was reached. The easiest 
way is probably by mounting a little 
to the 1., and so avoiding the almost pre¬ 
cipitous E. face of the barrier. The 
writer chose a couloir or chimney lying 
a little to the rt., which was rather 
troublesome from the masses of rotten 
snow that partly filled it. At the foot 
of this couloir is a small grove of birch, 
and on passing a torrent on the 1. hand 
the first traces of man’s presence were 
seen in the ruins of a shed and sheep- 
fold. Huge blocks with quite fresh 
fractures announced a recent berg-fall. 
Here a rough track on the 1. bank of 
the torrent opportunely appeared, as it 
facilitated the descent of another steep 
barrier of rock. Here, in clefts close 
by the path, was found Trientulis euro¬ 
pea, being the southernmost point at 
which that little northern flower, very 
rare in the Alps, has yet been observed. 
Before long the highest chalet (malga), 
not yet inhabited on 5 th July, was 
attained. A tolerable path led down 
another fourth step in the floor of the 
valley, the rocks being now composed 
of mica-schist. The path crosses to 
the rt. bank of the torrent near a point 
where a lesser branch of the valley 
joins it from WSW. It may be that 
the track indicated on the Austrian 
map, which leads to the middle part of 
Val di Fum, passes that way, if it rest 
upon any other foundation than the 
reports of chamois-hunters, who may 
probably have effected the passage at 
various points in the ridge. 

A pleasant walk led down the rt. 
bank ; and the first inhabitant, after 
satisfying his curiosity as to the unex¬ 
pected appearance of two strangers in 
such a place, kindly offered milk, po¬ 
lenta, and even coffee. The usual 
steep descent by a rough paved track 
finally led down to Villa, about 1 hr. 
above Tione (Rte. A.).] 



ROUTE D.—DEFILE OF THE SARCA. 


481 


Route D. 

TIONE TO RIVA, ON THE LAKE OF 
GARDA. 

Few things are more remarkable 
in the Italian valleys of Lombardy, 
Tyrol, and Venetia, than the talent 
for road-making, which seems innate 
amongst the population, and is de¬ 
veloped wherever scope is given for 
its display. The great military roads 
made by the Austrian Government 
doubtless serves as models; but they 
have been equalled in many remote 
valleys by works originated by the com¬ 
munes, and carried out with scarcely 
any assistance from the Government. 
One such road is noticed in this Rte., 
and another in Rte. E. The new road, 
however, is a circuitous way to reach 
Riva from Tione, and the pedestrian 
may take a much shorter and very 
agreeable walk by Ballino. 

1. Carriage-road by the valley of the 
Sarca. About 18 m. to Le Sarche; 
15 m. thence to Riva. From the lower 
end of Val Rendena, near Tione, to the 
broad valley extending from the Lake 
of Doblino to the head of the Lake 
of Garda, the Sarca flows through a 
cleft, or perhaps rather a series of 
clefts, through the jurassic and eocene 
rocks of the range that extends more 
or less continuously from the Mendola 
near Botzen to the neighbourhood of 
Salo. The successive gorges through 
which the river passes were always 
deemed so impassable, that the ancient 
bridle-track was carried at a great 
height over the mountains on either 
side, and long ascents and descents 
greatly increased the distance to be 
tre versed. The new road, executed at 
the charge of the communes of the 
valley, is an admirable piece of en¬ 
gineering, and has been achieved at 
wonderfully little cost. It brings Val 
Rendena and the intermediate district 
into direct and easy communication 
with Trento and with Riva. A post- 
carriage runs daily between Tione and 
Le Sarche, where it meets the vehicles 

PART II. I 


plying on the high road between Riva 
and Trento. After descending from 
Tione to the bridge over the Arno, the 
road is carried for some miles through 
a rich and populous part of the valley 
on the S. side of the ^arca, till it enters 
the defile where it was formerly neces¬ 
sary to ascend to a great height above 
the 1. bank of the river. The most 
remarkable part of the road is where 
it is carried across to the 1. bank, and 
then returns a short distance farther 
to the S. side of the stream. 

In one place a roof receives a little 
waterfall that otherwise would fall on 
the road, and in another a stream that 
bursts out from the rock is skilfully 
conducted by an interior channel till 
it can be allowed to escape. On high 
ground to the 1., not seen from the 
road, is Stenico , one of the chief vil¬ 
lages of Giudicaria, with an ancient 
castle, some Roman remains, and va¬ 
rious memorials of the local mediaeval 
history. An interesting walk from 
Stenico to Pinzolo by Val Dalcon is 
noticed in Rte. A. A little lower down 
the valley opens out, and a slight 
ascent to the rt. will enable the pedes¬ 
trian who would reach Riva by a 
shorter way than the road to join the 
path by Ballino, described below. The 
valley again contracts, as the road, 
leaving to the rt. many villages and 
hamlets, enters a gorge leading to the 
Baths of Comano , near a village of 
the same name, where a rather large 
building receives patients during the 
summer. The water is tepid and 
tasteless, but is believed to be efficient 
in some internal complaints About 
3 m. from the Baths the traveller un¬ 
expectedly finds himself at the upper 
end of an extraordinarily deep and 
savage gorge through which the Sarca 
descends to the very deep valley through 
which it is to flow to the L. of Garda. 
The descent, though loug, is now per¬ 
fectly safe, and may be much shortened 
by a pedestrian. One portion of the 
way traversed by the old bridle-track 
bore the significant name, ‘Passo della 
Morte.’ At Le Sarche, a hamlet with 
I 





482 


LOMBARD ALPS. § 40. ADAMELLO DISTRICT. 


a poor Inn, where an omelette and 
tolerable wine may be had, the travel¬ 
ler joins the high road from Trento to 
Riva, about 12 m. from the first, and 
15 m. from the latter place. That road 
is described in § 57. 

2. By Ballinu mid the Logo di 
Tenno. 5| hrs.’ walking. 

Almost immediately after crossing 
the bridge over the Arno below Tione, 
the pedestrian bound for Riva turns to 
the rt., and follows a good country road 
to Bolleno, and thence to Zuklo. A 
very agreeable footpath mounts gently 
from that village, winding along the 
lower slopes of the mountain, and at 
last bears to the rt. and enters a hollow 
which leads in 2 hrs. from Tione to 
the Duron Pass, a low col separated by 
hills of no great height from the valley 
of the Sarca. Up to the summit, erratic 
blocks of granite, some rolled, some 
angular, are abundant. An easy and 
agreeable path leads to Rango. On 
reaching the brow of the hill, there is 
a fine view over a rich and populous 
plateau, drained by a stream that joins 
the Sarca about 2 m. above the Baths 
of Comano, and enclosed by mountains 
of bold and varied form. There are 
many tracks connecting the neigh¬ 
bouring villages, some of them passable 
for vehicles, and it is not easy to de¬ 
cide as to the shortest way to Ballino. 
It seems best to pass by Cavrasto, and 
then by country paths to descend to 
the stream from Val Marza, which has 
excavated for itself a rather deep chan¬ 
nel, and then follow a track which 
gradually mounts above a marshy plain 
that extends southward towards the 
pass leading to Ballino. Peat is here 
extensively cut, and applied to some 
industrial uses. The walk is through¬ 
out very agreeable, but the most 
interesting portion is the descent to¬ 
wards Riva. Ballino lies on the S. side 
of a low pass, or gate in the hills, and 
a new road leads thence to Riva. The 
traveller, who knows that he has as¬ 
cended but little above the level of the 
Sarca at Tione, and who forgets that 

the L. of Garda is less than 20u ft. I 

* 


above the sea-level, is not prepared for 
the great and rapid fall towards the 
lower valley of the Sarca, which 
becomes apparent only after passing 
Tenno. On reaching the pictun sque 
Lago di Tenno, the traveller should 
make a short detour in order to reach 
a favourable point beyond the southern 
end of the lake from which to enjoy 
the admirable view of the Lake of 
Garda, nowhere so well seen as from 
this side. Below Tenno the new road 
makes many zigzags, some of which 
may be cut short by following a rough 
paved track, and the road finally de¬ 
scends into the main valley about 
2 m. from 

j Riva (Inn: Sole, good; Giardino, 
improved, cheaper), described in § 57. 
Travellers are cautioned against hiring 
chars from the postmaster, who on 
false pretences extorts more than the 
tariff rate, while they may be hired for 
much less from other persons. 


Route E. 

LODRONE TO RIVA, BY VAL AMPOLA 
AND THE LAKE OF LEDRO. 

Carriage-road—About 28 miles. 

It has been seen in several of the 
preceding Rtes. that a traveller ap¬ 
proaching the Italian Tyrol by the 
road through Val Sabbia (Rte. A), or 
by the mountain passes from Val Trom- 
pia or Val Camonica, will cross the 
Austrian frontier at the bridge of 
Lodrone. This is now a tolerably 
good road leading from that place to 
Riva, on the Lake of Garda, which for 
the exquisite beauty and variety of its 
scenery can scarcely be surpassed by 
any in the Alps. The road itself, and 
especially the descent to Riva, is a 
remarkable piece of engineering; and 
the more so as, like that noticed in the 
last work, it was accomplished by the 
almost unaided efforts of the country 
people. 

Following the road from Lodrone up 




ROUTE E.-LAKE OF LEDRO. 


the rt. bank of the Chiese, the traveller 
reaches in about 3 m. the turn leading 
by a bridge over the river to Storo, a 
large village with a fairly good but 
dear inn (Cavallo Bianco). This 
stands close to the junction with the 
Chiese of a torrent issuing from Val 
Arnpola , a narrow lateral glen, or mere 
cleft in the limestone mountains. 
Through this the new road to Riva 
has been carried. It mounts at first 
about due E.; then, near the junction 
of a torrent from the S., turns NE., 
passing one of the small forts or block¬ 
houses erected by the Austrians at all 
points supposed to guard the approaches 
from Italy to the Valley of the Adige. 
This was taken in 1866 by the force 
under Garibaldi, one of the few suc¬ 
cesses achieved in that miserably ill- 
conducted expedition. Unless there 
be a recent change of system, travellers, 
and men of science should carefully 
avoid being seen to sketch or make 
notes of any description within sight oi 
these forts. 

After ascending for 1 ^ hr. from Storo 
between steep and high walls of lime¬ 
stone, the summit level is unexpectedly 
attained. The road issues from the 
cleft near a small shallow pool that 
sends its water through Val Arnpola 
to the Chiese, and then passes along a 
marshy tract with no perceptible water¬ 
shed till a stream begins to descend 
towards the E., and the Val di Ledro• 
opens out in a wide basin enclosed 
between mountains of moderate height. 
Several villages are now traversed in 
rapid succession, in some of which 
the traveller who would explore the 
neighbourhood may find tolerable 
quarters. At Tiarno di Sot to the 
writer once lodged at the Osteria De- 
gara, and had no cause for complaint; 
on another occasion he lunched at 
what appeared a decent country Inn 
on the N. side of the road, at Pieve di 
Ledro. Between these two villages 
the stream from Val di Conzei (Rte. F) 
enters the valley from the N. The 
village of Pieve is but | m. from the 
charming little Lake of Ledro (2,183'), 

11 


488 

a sheet of water nearly 2 m. long by 
1 m. wide, surrounded by sloping mea¬ 
dows and wooded hills, backed- by 
higher mountains to the S. In the 
heat of summer the difference of very 
nearly 2,000 ft. of height above the 
Lake of Garda gives a feeling of 
freshness that enhances the charm 
of this spot, which will doubtless be¬ 
come at some future time a place of 
much resort. The road is carried 
along the N. side of the lake, but there 
is a somewhat circuitous path by the 
opposite shore, and a track leads 
through a pretty wooded glen to a pass 
that crosses the frontier of Italy and 
descends to Tremosine, on the Lake of 
Garda. The lake and the plateau of 
Val di Ledro are drained by the Ponal 
torrent, which descends through a 
short ravine to the Lake of Garda. The 
road is carried along the northern 
slope above the Ponal torrent, descend¬ 
ing rather rapidly for about 3| m., 
and the traveller may fancy himself 
approaching the level of the lake, when 
he gains a first glimpse of its waters 
at a vast depth below him. Skilfully- 
conducted zigzags lead the road down 
a buttress of the mountain, but the 
descent stops short at a point which 
must be fully 700 ft. above the blue 
lake. Between the cleft through which 
the Ponal springs in a pretty waterfall 
to the lake, and the shore at Riva, ex¬ 
tends for about 1 ^ m. a range of mural 
precipices, the highest, boldest, and 
most impracticable in appearance that 
rise above any of the alpine lakes. 
The road that descends along the face 
of this formidable wall of rock is in 
many places a mere notch cut into its 
face, and overhung in a somewhat 
threatening manner by impending 
masses above. At some points a tunnel 
has been carried through projecting 
buttresses, and a little Austrian fort is 
ready to close this approach to the 
head of the Lake of Garda. In passing 
along this remarkable road the travel¬ 
ler enjoys views of exquisite beauty, 
varying according to the hour of the 
day, but never more perfect than w en 
2 





LOMBARD ALPS. § 40. ADAMELLO DISTRICT. 


484 

full moonlight is poured over the lake 
and the mountains. Among the few 
plants that cling to the rocks are seen 
Mcehringia Ponce, Leontodon incanus , 
Piptatherum midtiflorum, and other 
rarities, along with the evergreen oak, 
here reduced to a bush, Colutea arbo- 
rescens, and other southern shrubs. 

Reference has been made in the pre¬ 
ceding Rtes. to the remarkable distri¬ 
bution of erratic blocks of the granite 
of the Adamello group throughout the 
lower valleys of this district. The 
phenomenon is especially deserving of 
careful study in regard to the plateau 
of Ledro, lying as it does between the 
valleys of the Chiese and the Sarca. 
They are abundant on the plateau, 
rising to a few hundred feet above the 
Lake of Ledro, but do not extend into 
the Yal di Conzei. The writer has 
been assured that they are found 
abundantly in the lateral valleys S. of 
the lake, and that a large deposit exists 
on a slope above the village of Prega- 
sena, near the Italian frontier, S. of 
the Ponal. Several large blocks may 
also be seen in the bed of the torrent, 
descending through Yal Ampola. 
Exact levelling, and a minute know¬ 
ledge of the Adamello range, which 
may enable us to trace the origin of 
special varieties of the granite, are re¬ 
quired to give a complete explanation 
of the mode in which the distribution 
has been effected. 


Route F. 

PIEVE DI LEDRO TO TIONE. 

The pedestrian going from Pieve di 
Ledro to Tione has a choice of several 
interesting paths, though none of them 
is more beautiful than the road to 
Storo (Rte. E), and that leading thence 
by Condino and Pieve di Buono (Rte. 
A). 

The easiest way is by a path that 


mounts from Tiarno di Sopra to a de¬ 
pression in the range to the W., and 
then descends the steep side of the 
mountain to Condino. It is said that 
the distance from one village to the 
other may be traversed in 2 hrs. 
Another and somewhat higher pass 
connects Tiarno di Sotto with Pieve di 
Buono, but of this the writer has no 
information. A longer walk, especially 
interesting to the botanist, leads by the 
Val di Conzei to the Gavardina Pass. 
A cart-track leads from Pieve di Ledro 
to Lenzumo, the highest hamlet, and 
soon after crosses to the rt. bank of the 
torrent. For a considerable distance 
the path is carried under the shade of 
trees, and gradually becomes less dis¬ 
tinct as it branches in various direc¬ 
tions. A short cut may be made by a 
steep and rather rough way used by 
haycutters, and towards the top the 
way is along a steep slope, with the 
wooded glen on the traveller’s rt. 
hand, at a considerable depth below 
him. Some projecting rocks on the 
ridge close to the pass produce several 
interesting plants, especially the ex¬ 
tremely rare Saxifraga Tombeana, 
nearly allied to the rare S. diapensiodes 
of the Western Alps. 3 j or 4 hrs. may 
be allowed to reach the pass. The de¬ 
scent through the Val Gavardina is 
easy, and in less than 2 hrs. the tra¬ 
veller will enter the short valley 
through which the Arno flows to meet 
the Sarca below Tione. It is not 
necessary to cross the valley in order 
to join the high road at Bondo, as there 
is a good path along the SE. side, but 
in either case a rather long descent, 
and corresponding ascent, are needed 
to reach Tione (Rte. A). If prt-ssed 
for time the traveller may, on the same 
day, go on to Pinzolo. 





ROUTE G.-MONTE TOMBEA. 


485 


Route G. 

STORO TO TOSCOLANO ON THE LAKE 
OF GARDA, BY VAL VESTINO. 

The way here suggested for reaching 
the S. end of the Lake of Garda from 
the valley of the Chiese may not, al¬ 
though it offers some fine scenery, be 
of sufficient interest for the unscientific 
traveller ; but it has especial attractions 
for the botanist, as there are few sta¬ 
tions in the Alps so productive of rare 
plants as the Val Vestino, here noticed, 
and the Monte Tombea at its head. 
The way is rather long, and a tra¬ 
veller wishing to have full time for 
examining the mountain must content 
himself with rough but bearable quar¬ 
ters in the village of Magasa. 

As mentioned in Rte. A, the head of 
Val Vestino may be approached from 
Bondone, a village overlooking the 
Lake of Idro ; but there is a more 
interesting way through Val Lorina, a 
narrow and deep glen that enters Val 
Ampola close to the new fort that 
guards the defile (Rte. E). The sce¬ 
nery of Val Lorina is of the wildest 
kind. For a considerable distance the 
way lies at the bottom of the very deep 
cleft through which the torrent forces 
its way. This is fortunately a slender 
stream, which is crossed about thirty 
times, as either bank becomes impass¬ 
able, but after heavy rain the passage 
is impracticable, and communication is 
then interrupted with the few herds¬ 
men who resort in summer to the head 
of the valley. Several of the rarest 
plants noticed below are found here, 
as well as in Val Vestino. After 
passing one or two chalets, a tolerable 
path mounts steeply towards a pass 
by which the traveller could descend 
to Tremosine on the Lake of Garda; 
and by bearing somewhat to the rt., 
between a low summit called Caplone 
and the higher ridge of the Tombea, 
he could descend at once to Magasa at 
the head of Val Vestino. That would 
be the most direct way to Toscolano, 
but would not be suitable for the 


botanist, whose chief harvest is on the 
ridge of the Tombea. His course is 
by a slightly-marked track that winds 
along the N. face of the mountain, 
until he finds himself overlooking 
another branch of Val Lorina. That 
would seem to have been the more 
direct course for reaching the point at 
which he aims, but the rocks are so 
extremely steep that much time would 
be lost in attempting to mount that 
way. Ascendiug by some projecting 
rocks that are covered with the rarest 
plants, he reaches a chalet (malga) in 
a little green basin, a short way below 
the highest ridge of the mountain. 
The Monte Tombea is probably abou-t 
6,800 ft. in height, and as it slightly 
overlooks the nearer summits ]t com¬ 
mands an extensive view, in which 
one ridge of Alps just overtops the 
nearer one, but minute local know¬ 
ledge would be needed to distinguish 
accurately the details. The following 
are among the very interesting plants 
found on the mountain, most of them 
on rocks between 5,000 ft. and the 
top: Ranunculus Bertolonii ( crenatus?), 
Capsella paucijlora , Viola heterophylla , 
Silene Elizabethce , Mcehringia glauco- 
viretis , Saxifraga arachnoidea , Laser- 
pitium nitidum , Scabiosa vestina, Rha- 
ponticum scariosum, Gcntiana utriculosa , 
Pcederota bonarota , Primida spec tab ilis, 
Daphne rupestris, and Sesleria micro - 
cephala (?). In descending it would 
be easy to join the track from Val 
Bondone to Magasa, but the botanist 
will prefer to give some additional time 
to the examination of the southern 
face of the mountain. 

On the E. side of the Tombea, the 
frontier between Tyrol and Lombardy 
is to some extent a natural boundary, 
as the streams flowing to Val di Ledro 
and Val Ampola are Tyrolese, and 
those running SE. towards the L. of 
Garda are given to Lombardy. The 
S. side of the Tombea, and the head of 
the Val Toscolano belong, however, to 
Tyrol. The Tyrolese portion of the 
valley is called Val Vestino. It is, for so 
secluded a district, very populous, com- 






48G LOMBARD ALPS. § 4U. 

prising seven or eight villages, and a 
good deal of arable land, extending 
into several short branches or recesses 
in the mountains. In addition to 
several of the plants of the Tom- 
bea -which descend into the head of the 
valley, there have been found here 
Malabaila Hacquetii, Pedicularis acau- 
lis, and other rarities. Near the fron¬ 
tier, where the path enters Val Tos- 
colano, is (?) the western limit of the 
pretty Adenophora suaveolens. Unlike 
Val Vestino, the Val Toscolano is 
almost uninhabited, but there are some 
smSll hamlets on the slopes of the 
mountains, reached by paths that di- 
Aerge from the main valley. The 
scenery is pleasing, but not remarkable, 
except at the lower end, where the 
hold summit of Monte Pizzocolo has a 
fine effect. The path keeps most of 
the way to the 1. bank, and the first 
view of the Lake of Garda is gained 
near Gaino. A path leads from that 
village through a considerable grove 
of fine laurel (or hay) trees, which are 
here used to produce an oil used for 
some manufacturing purposes. 

Toscolano, with a rather humble, hut 
not bad Inn, kept by Paolina, is de¬ 
scribed in § 57. 

Travellers who wish to visit the 
Tombea and Val Vestino, without 
crossing the Italian frontier, may best 
go by Bondone, and return by Val 
Lorina to Storo. The Tombea may 
also be approached from Val di Ledro 
by a very agreeable but somewhat la¬ 
borious route, in great part along the 
mountain ridge that here forms the 
frontier between Tyrol and Lombardy, 
passing over, or near to, the summit of 
Monte Tremulzo. 


Route H. 

PINZOLO TO RIVA, BY THE BOCCA DI 
BRENTA, AND MOLVENO. 

In several of the preceding routes, 
reference has been made to a consider- 


ADAMELLO DISTRICT. 

able mountain-mass, extending on the 
E. side of Val Rendena, for which the 
collective name Brenta Alta is here 
adopted. It is composed of a brittle 
dolomitic limestone (much less crystal¬ 
line in texture than the true dolomite 
of the Venetian and Fassa Alps), which 
by exposure to the weather assumes 
various tints, from pale grey to rich 
pink and murky red. By its extra¬ 
ordinary boldness and singularity of 
form, this range fascinates all moun¬ 
taineers who approach it, yet it is but 
very lately that it has been even par¬ 
tially explored. It may best be de¬ 
scribed as an irregular group of towers 
of rock, varying in height from 9,500 
to nearly 11,000 ft., that rise out of a 
huge broken mass of limestone, which 
is penetrated in some directions by 
deep valleys and recesses. As a 
general rule, the towers are iso¬ 
lated, showing on one or more sides 
absolutely vertical faces of rock, and 
each is capped by a covering of neve. 
At the E. foot of the mountain is the 
picturesque Lohe of Molveno. a spot 
strangely overlooked by travellers, but 
which, if in Switzerland, would doubt¬ 
less be the frequented resort of tourists 
throughout the summer. The little 
village of Molveno. at the head of the 
lake, is connected with Pinzolo in Val 
Rendena by an extremely interesting 
pass — the Bocca di Brenta — whose 
name was strangely misapplied by the 
Austrian engineers to the highest sum¬ 
mit of the mountain. The pass, with 
the valleys leading to it on either side, 
divide the Brenta Aha into two por¬ 
tions, of which the larger, including 
the highest peak, lies S. of the pass. 
The engineers engaged on the Aus¬ 
trian map have given the name Cima 
Tosa to the highest of the summits 
N. of the pass (10,324' Austr. Eng.); 
I whereas the name Tosa (signifying 
Jungfrau, or virgin) is unknown on the 
W. side of the mountain, and is uni¬ 
versally applied on the Molveno side 
to the highest summit, misnamed on the 
Austrian map Bocca di Brenta. 




ROUTE H.-LAKE OF MOLVENO. 


487 


The way from Pinzolo to Molveno 
lies through Yal Nambino. The track 
to La Madonna di Campiglio is followed 
for some way beyond the chapel of St. 
Antonio (Route A), beyond which a 
rough cart-track has been carried to 
some sawmills standing opposite the 
opening of Val Brenta , if hr. from 
Pinzolo. After crossing the main tor¬ 
rent, the path mounts through the forest 
on the 1. bank of the stream from Val 
Brenta, till it crosses to the opposite 
bank at the lower end of a level tract 
of meadow whereon stand some sheds. 
Thenceforward the way lies on the 
proper rt., or NE. side of the valley ; 
unless a detour be made to reach a soli¬ 
tary casern standing on a high shelf 
above the steep barrier of rock that 
stretches across the glen. This is 
reached by a steep narrow track easily 
missed, that climbs the slope above the 
1. bank of the torrent, reaching the 
summit of the barrier just where it 
abuts against the mountain. Here, as 
in most of the chalets of the limestone 
Alps, the traveller may feast on milk 
and excellent butter. Above the rocky 
barrier the scenery assumes a wild and 
fantastic aspect, which reealls, without 
closely resembling, that of the better 
known Dolomite Alps. The stream 
alternately sinks into the ground and 
reappears further on, till it is finally 
lost to view, and the upper region of 
the mountain is absolutely devoid of 
water. Some way above the chalet 
the glen forks, and the true course 
is that lying to the 1. as the travel¬ 
ler ascends. The glen becomes a 
mere cleft leading up to a long snow 
couloir, at the head of which is seen the 
Bocca di Brenta (8,502'? J.B.), a 
true gateway, about 15 ft. wide, between 
two pinnacles of limestone. After a 
short descent over rough rocks, the 
way turns abruptly to the 1. into the 
wild upland glen that leads down to 
the head of Val delle Seghe. In ap¬ 
proaching the pass from the Molveno 
side, it is not seen until the traveller 
has come close below it. The much 


broader gap seen in front during the 
ascent on that side leads to the base of 
the Tosa, or highest peak of the moun¬ 
tain. For a considerable distance the 
way down the glen is very rough and 
trackless, though not at all sterp, until 
the traveller reaches a pasture, and a hut 
locally called Malga dei Vitelli (about 
6,550'). Henceforward a faintly marked 
track leads the traveller over rough 
ground, which becomes doubly intri¬ 
cate when brushwood begins to cover 
the surface, and conceal the numerous 
holes and chinks in the rocks. Before 
long he finds himself at a great height 
above the deep and narrow Val delle 
Seghe, through which lies the way to 
Molveno. The scenery here reaches 
the climax of fantastic beauty and 
strangeness. The pinnacles and towers 
of rock that rise above the lower belt 
of pine and beech forest rival each 
oiher in boldness of form, some actually 
overhanging their bases. A very rough 
descent, where local knowledge in the 
guide will save some trouble to the 
traveller, leads down to the bed of the 
valley, and the remainder of the way 
lies through the dense forest that still 
clothes its recesses, though the wood¬ 
cutter s axe has begun to devastate it. 
The Val delle Seghe takes its name 
from the sawmills worked near the 
point where it opens on the Lake of 
Molveno. Turning to the 1., a few 
minutes’ walk leads in about 8 hrs. 
from Pinzolo to the small and poor 
village of 

Molveno (3,050'?), standing on rising 
ground above the N. end of the lake, 
Rough but tolerable quarters are found 
at Giacomo’s Osteria near the church. 
Fish from the lake, and a fowl may 
sometimes be had, but butcher’s meat 
is not found in this remote place, which 
may at some not distant day be fre¬ 
quented by tourists. The charming little 
Lake of Molveno, rather more than 3 m. 
in length, and about 3,000 ft. above the 
sea-level, lies between the main mass 
of the Brenta Alta and the ridge of 
Monte Gazza (about 6,500'), which 





488 


LOMBARD ALPS. § 40. ADAMELLO DISTRICT. 


divides the valley of Molveno from the 
Adige and the road from Yezzano to 
Trento. 

[From Molveno an agreeable path 
leads along the Bior torrent to Andolo , 
a hamlet near a little lake, and then, 
over a low pa>s. into Val Sporregyio, a 
tributary of Val di Non (§ 37, Rte. B). 
The valley contains two ruined castles 
of the Spaur family (who derive their 
origin and their name from hence), and 
the villages Spor Maggiore and Spor 
Minore. the first on the rt., the second 
on the 1. bank of the torrent. The 
Val di Non is entered at the defile of 
Rocchetta. This path offers a conve¬ 
nient and agreeable way for the pe¬ 
destrian bound for the Val di Non, 
who would avoid the hot valley of the 
Adige.] 

There is a choice between three dif¬ 
ferent ways connecting Molveno with 
Riva. In approaching the lake from 
Riva or Trent the most interesting way 
in clear weather is to cross the ridge of 
Monte Gazza from Vezzano. It is a 
broad-topped rounded ridge, nearly 
bare of timber on both sides, and the 
walk is uninteresting until, on ap¬ 
proaching the verge of the steep western 
face, the exquisitely blue lake is seen 
at a great depth below, backed by the 
grand crags and towers of the Brenta 
Alta, whose topography can be studied 
better from hence than from any other 
point of view. The shortest track down 
the steep face of the ridge leading to 
Molveno is easily missed without a 
local guide. In going from Molveno 
the most agreeable way is that by 
Ranzo. A cart-track for the convey¬ 
ance of timber is carried along the W. 
bank of the lake, but to enjoy the 
scenery the traveller should either fol¬ 
low the much rougher and little-used 
path above the E. shore, or hire a boat 
at Molveno. On reaching the southern 
end, he will be surprised to find that no 
stream issues from the lake. There is 
probably none other in the Alps of 
nearly equal dimensions that is drained 
altogether by subterranean channels. 
Whether, as the writer supposed on a 


first visit, the original course of the 
stream has been covered over by a 
great berg-fall, is somewhat uncertain. 
After crossing a level stony tract, where 
a spring of deliciously cold water bursts 
out in one place near the path, the 
verge of the short glen running down to 
the valley of the Sarca is attained. 
The first houses are at a spot called Le 
Mulina, where the stream from the lake 
bursts out from a cleft in the mountain 
and turns several mills. In going to 
Ranzo, the traveller does not descend to 
Le Mulina, but bears to the left, and 
follows a track along the slope of the 
mountain, till he approaches the point 
where it forms a sharp angle overlook¬ 
ing the deep defile through which the 
Sarca descends to Le Sarche. In fol¬ 
lowing the road from that place to 
Tione (Rte. D), and viewing the preci¬ 
pitous face of the mountain that almost 
overhangs the defile, a nearly horizon¬ 
tal ledge—in appearance a mere line— 
is seen to traverse the rocks. This 
ledge affords a perfectly easy and safe 
path, two or three ft. in width, which 
leads to the village of Ranzo, standing 
on the summit of a steep and lofty pro¬ 
montory that on one side overlooks the 
defile of the Sarca, and on the other the 
Lake of Toblino. A path leads thence 
down to Castel Toblino on the latter 
lake, described in Chap. xvi. 

A course to Le Sarche, rather shorter 
than that by Ranzo, is to descend to 
Le Mulina. The torrent flows from 
thence to join the Sarca in the impass¬ 
able defile above referred to; but by 
keeping a track above the rt. bank, for 
some way nearly at a level, there is no 
difficulty in descending to a plank 
bridge just above the defile, by which 
the Tione road is reached about 3 m. 
above Le Sarche. 

The first ascent of La Tosa,ov highest 
peak of the Brenta Alta, was made in 
1865 by Mr. W. E. Forster and the wri¬ 
ter, with a youngman named Matteo Ni- 
colosi of Molveno, who is a good crags¬ 
man and has minute local knowledge 
of some parts of the mountain, but has 
no mountaineering instinct, and is ut- 



ROUTE H.—ASCENT OP THE BRENTA ALTA. 


terly unaccustomed to ice-work. About 
1 m. S. of the opening of Val delle 
Seghe is a deep recess running into the 
central part of the Brenta range. 
There is a herdsman’s hut, or casera, 
on a shelf of rock near the head of this 
recess. This may be reached by a 
cattle track that ascends over much 
rough ground from the level of the 
lake, but it is a rather shorter course to 
mount at first to a large casera, seen 
from Molveno, that stands on a shoulder 
of the mountain about 1600 ft above 
the lake, and then to ascend gradually 
in a slanting direction till you reach a 
slope of debris running up along the 
base of a range of vertical rocks, at no 
great distance from the first-named ca¬ 
sera. After climbing a steep rocky 
slope, immediately above the casera, 
it is necessary to keep towards a gap 
on the rt. of a projecting rock, avoiding 
a faintly marked sheep track that here 
bears to the 1. On reaching the gap 
the traveller is on the verge of a deep 
rocky hollow, which would contain a 
lake if the rock were not everywhere 
pierced by internal fissures. The way 
is over very rough ground to the 1. of 
the hollow, and then up bare slopes of 
rock whose rifts are full of snow. Du- 
ringthe ascent the Tosa is full in view. 
On this side it appears more massive 
and less tower-like than from other 
points of view. At its base are two 
glaciers. The smaller one on the N. 
side might be reached by either of two 
gaps, leading very close to the summit 
of the Bocca di Brenta ; but the highest 


489 

point lies a good way S., and rises im¬ 
mediately above the larger glacier 
lying at the E. base of the peak. As 
seen by the writer, the nearly perpen¬ 
dicular wall of rock guarding the base 
of the peak is quite unbroken, but there 
are some places where the vertical part 
does not rise more than 100 or 150 
feet above the edge of the glacier. 
At such a spot a narrow cleft or chim¬ 
ney was found, by which the steepest 
part of the ascent was surmounted, and 
the remainder of the way was not 
difficult. The earlier measurements 
of this peak were much under the 
truth. The yet unpublished Govern¬ 
ment Survey of Tyrol attributes to it 
the height 10,771 ft., but the writer is 
persuaded that even this is somewhat 
short of the truth. His observations 
give for the summit a height of at least 
7,800 above Molveno, or not less than 
10,850 ft. above the sea. In any case 
it ranks beside the Primiero peaks, 
leaving to the Marmolata its pre-emi¬ 
nence among the limestone summits of 
the Eastern Alps. 

The second ascent was made by Mr. 
Tuckett in 1867, with Melchior An- 
deregg and Bonifazio Nicolosi. He 
reports favourably of the latter, whose 
elder brother, Matteo, is gone to live 
in Botzen. Mr. Tuckett ascertained 
that the true Cima Tosa surpasses the 
second peak of this group (Cima Tosa 
of Austrian map), called by B. Nicolosi 
Cima di Mezzodi, by not more than 
100 ft. 










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INDICES 


♦ 


INDEX TO THE PEAKS OK MOUNTAINS 
INDEX TO THE ALPINE PASSES 


PARE 

. 493 

.. 499 
. 603 


GENERAL INDEX 















' bwM 

If ■ I rill 




































INDEX 


TO 

THE PEAKS OR MOUNTAINS. 


ABE 

A BENDBERG, the, 69 
Adamello (11,067 7 ), 477 
Aiggischhorn (9.649'), 85, 103, 106, 125 
Aela, Piz d’ (10,893'), 367 
Agassizhorn (12,960'). 112 
Agnone, Pizzo d’ (8,513'), 336 
Albeno, Monte (6,706'), 449 
Albristhorn (9,078'), 51 
Albrunhorn (9,515'), 252 
Aletschorn (3,803'), 94 
Almerhorn (13,281'), 110 
Alpenorenstock (7,982'), 198 
Alpstein (9,347'), 360 
Altels, the, (11,923'), 37 
Alvier (7,754'), 230 
Alzasca, Pizzo d’ (7,418'), 315 
Amertenhorn (8,727'). 48 
Angelus Spitze (10,982'), 420, 434 
Aralata (6,585'), 450 
Arbelhcrn (9,980'), 16 
Arblasch, Piz d’ (10,512'), 368 
Arera, Monte (8,255'), 449 
Auberg, Gross (5,583'), 183 
Augsimattenhorn (6.929'), 60 
Augstenberg (7,801'), 208, 35E 
Augstenberg (10,443'), 363 
Anl, Piz (10,250'), 296 
Ault, Piz (9,951'), 216 
Axenberg, the (6.830'), 156 
Ay Tour d’ (7,818'), 9, 22 
Azzarini, Monte (7,976'), 451 


B ACHTEL (3,671'), 204 
Balmhorn (12,1(0'), 37 
Balniscio, Cima di (9,967'), 336 
Bardan, Cimadi (9,387'), 336 
Barenhorn (9,619') 295, 300 
Ba^odine (10,748') 312,314 
Bauen, Nieder (6,323'), 156 

-Ober, (6,964'), 156 

Beckistock (8,491'), 198 
Berglistock, the, 119 
Bernina, Piz (13,294'), 396 
Berra, La, 26 
Beverin, Piz (9,843'), 283 
Biberlikopf, (he, 205 
Bietschhorn (12,969'), 103 
Biferten Stock (10,778'), 222 
Bisbino, Monte (4,416'), 329 
Blackenstock (9,685'), 175 
Blasi, Como di (10,000'), 382 
Blaskopf, the (4,743'), 242 
Blauberg (9,848'), 266 


CEV 

Blinnenhorn (10,932'), 248 

Blume, the (5,223'), 64 

Bliimlisalphorn (12,041'), 43 

Bliimlisalpstock (10,564'), 43 

Blumone, Monte (9,321'), 460 

Bobio, Monte, 454 

Bocktenhorn (10,038'), 377 

Bonder Grat, 52 

Bortelhorn (10.482'), 255 

Bramegg (3,645'), 128 

Branleire, Dent de (7,743'), 11 

Braulio, Monte (9,790'), 422 

Breithorn (12.382'), 99 

Brenta Alta, (10,771 ?) 471, 486 

Brienzer Bothhorn (7,917'), 62 

Brigelser Horn, or Piz Tnmbif (10,555'), 185,22* 

Brisen, Hoch (7,895'), 176 

Bristenstock (10,089'), 270 

Brodelhorn (9,187'), 248 

Bromberg, the (8,675'), 113 

Bronzone, Monte (4,446'), 461 

Bruschghorn (10,020'), 303 

Buin, Piz (10,916'), 358. 362 

Biindner Todi, or Piz Frisal, 222 

Buochserhorn (5,936'). 177 

Biirgenstein, the (4,077'), 154 

Busazza (10,903'). 477 

Biittlassen (10,463'), 42 


C ADELLE, Monte (8.301'), 451 
Cadini, Punta (11,425 ), 419 
Calanda (9,213'), 185, 210 
Camadra, Cima (10,509'), 276, 298 
Cambrena Piz (11,835'), 395 
Cambrial Piz. 221 
Camoghd, Monte (7,304'), 333 
Campaccio, Pizzo (8,544'), 413 
Campione (7,158'), 454 
Campo, Cornodi, 415 
Canciano, Pizzo (10.194'), 411 
Canzo, Corno di (4 5U8'), 345 
Caprino. Monte, 335 
Capiitschin (11,132'), 397 
Carasso, Monte (5,649'), 305 
Carfe Alto (11,352'). 472 
Caren, Monte (6,406'), 465 
Casana, Piz (10,079'). 415 
Catscharauls (10,049'’), 198, 221 
Cavallo, Monte (7,671'), 451 
Cavardiras, Piz, 221 
Gavel, Piz (9,658'), 293. 296 
Cavento, Corno di (10.9! 4'), 479 
Cevedale, Monte (12,505'), 419, 431 




494 


INDEX TO THE 


CHA 

Chalchang (10,348'), 394 

Chatnossaire (6,932'), 10 

Ch.isseral (5,279'), 6 

Chaumont (3,845'), 6 

Chaiuey, Pic de '7,799'), 9 

Chiampatsch, Piz (9,580'), 392 

Churfirsten, the, 205 

Cistella, Monte (9,439'). 257 

Ciumbraida, Piz (10,246'), 422, 443 

Clara, Pizzo di (8,917'), 279 

darideu stock (10,709'), 178, 198 

Confinale, Monte (11,076'), 420,426 

Confine, Corni del, 476 

Cornicella (9,223'), 399 

Corvatsch, Piz (11,345'), 397 

Costainas, Piz (9,865'), 425 

Cotschen, Piz, orTgietschen (10,925'), 184, 216 

Cotschen, Piz (9,938'), 363 

Cramalina (7,520'), 315 

Crana, Pioda di (7,959'), 317 

Crap Alv (9 784'), 216 

Crave, Piz (9,282'), 285, 292 

Cray, Le (6,795'), 20 

Cretabessa, the, 18 

Crispalt, the, 184 

Cristallina, Piz (10.344'), 216, 276 

Cristallo, Monte (11,370'), 420 

Cristiannes (10,236'), 446 

Cristillina (9,547').313 

Crocione, Monte, 327 

Cry, Haut de (9,698'), 14 

Cucarn6, Piz (8,924'), 368 

Cuiand, Rochers de, 10 

Curciusa, Pizzo di (9,422'), 336 

Carver, Piz (9,761'), 283 


D AUBENHORN (9,449'), 37 
Diablerets (10,666'), 3, 10, 15 
Diavolo, Crozzon del (9,956'), 477 
Diavolo, Pizzo del (9,574'), 402 
Diechterhorn (10,583'), 79 
Disgrazia, Monte della (12,074'), 408 
Doldenhorn (11,965'), 35 
Doldenhorn, Klein (11.413'). 35 
Dosde, Corno di (10,597'), 416 
Dreieckhorn (12,540'), 87 
Drusenflnh (9,298'), 235, 360 
Dnana, Pizzo della (10,279'). 381 
Ducan, Hoch (10,082'), 370, 378 
Durin, Corno di (7,156'), 324 
Dusbistock (10,701'), 198 


E BNEFLUH, the (13.005'). 99 

Eggen Spitze (11,263'), 435, 439 
Eiger, the (13,045'), 72 
Einshorn (9,649'),283. 284 
Eisenhorn (9,816'), 357 
Emet, Piz d' (10 502'), 320, 382 
Engelberger Rothstock (9,251'), 176 
Engeln, Drei (6,497'), 182 
Erbserstock, 229 
Err, Piz d\ 367 
Erzegg (9,336'), 134 
Escherhorn (10,105'), 114 
Esel (6.962'), 150 
Esen, Piz d\ (10,269'), 392 
Etzel, the, 173 


F ALKNISS, the (8,338'), 354 
Fanellahorn (10,243'), 299,300 
Fa6tchalv, Piz (10,430'), 363 


GKO 

Faulfirst (7,916'), 230 

Faulhorn (8,799'), 70 

Ferro, Sasso del (3,556'), 307 

Fibbia, La (8,996'), 266 

Finsteraarhorn (14,026'), 89 

Fiorera (9,584'), 314 

Fiori, Monte Campo dei (4,085'), 343 

Flascherberg (3,101'), 354 

Flatschberg (10,673') 419 

Fliegenspitze (5,610'), 213 

Flix, Cima da, 367 

Fluchthorn (11,142'), 353 

Fluela Weisshorn (10,135'), 376 

Fluh, Mittel (8,441'), 361 

Foletto, Monte (11,169'), 479 

Foppenhorn (10,371'), 368, 381 

Forbisch, Piz (10,689'), 308 

Formico, Pizzo (5,171'), 449 

Fornaccia (12,038'), 419 

Forun, Piz (10,010'), 370 

Frau, Wilde (10,702'), 42, 43 

Frerone, Monte (8,676'), 460 

Freudenberg (2,871'), 232 

Frisal, Piz, or Biindner Tfidi, 222 

Frohnalpstock (5,787'), (§ 26, Rte. A.), 156 

Frohnalpstock (6,982'), (§ 27, Rte. A.), 189 

Frohlichsegg, 232 

Frunthorn (9,954'), 297 

Fundelhorn (7,871'), 351 

Fumo, Monte (10,682), 477 

Furkahorn, 272 


G ABRIS (4,119'), 236 

Gadmenfluh, the (9,155'), 135 
Gaibiga, Monte (5,600'), 327 
Galenstock (11,956'), 140, 272 
Gallegione, Pizzo (10,28V), 883 
Gallinario, Pizzo (10.387'), 293 
Galmi, Hinter (11,595'), 125 
Gamstock, the (8,081'), 40 
Gangella, Cima di (9,229'), 286 
Ganneretsch, Piz (9,984'), 217 
Gazza, Monte (about 6,500'), 487 
Geissbiitzistock, 198 
Gelbhorn (9,958'), 303 
Gemistock (7,967'), 192, 198 
Gemschfayrstock (9,733') 191, 198 
Generoso, Monte (5,561'), 340 
Genova, Uosson di (10,890'), 477 
Ghiaje, Cima delle (9,880), 471 
Ghiridone, Monte (7,165'), 306 
Gisifluh (2,539'), 157 
Giswylerstock (6,075'), 132 
Giuf, Piz (10,164'), 184, 2t7, 220 
Giumella (11,650'), 419 
Giumels, Piz (9.623'), 36 
Gleno, Monte, 463 
Glarnisch, the, 179 

-Hinter (9.584'), 180 

-Mittel (9,557'), 180 

-Vorder (7,647'), 181, 189 

Gletscherhorn (9,629'), 48, 99 
Gletscherhorn (10,190'), 37 
Gonzen, the (6,014'), 235 
Granate, Corno delle (10,171'), 459 
Grauehorner, the, 228 
Grauhorn (9,8490, 286, 303 
Grauspitz (8,648'), 36n 
Griatschouls, Piz (9,754'), 390 
Gribellekopf (9,508'), 364 
Grigna (7,908'), 454, 445 
Groppera, Pizzo (9,6*60, 3*15 




PEAKS OR MOUNTAINS. 


405 


GRO 

Grosshorn (12.346'), 99 
Griinberst, the (10.361'), 113, 128 
Grunerhom (11,542'), 114 
Grunhorn (10,784'), 90 
Griinhorn Liicke (10,843'), 90 
Griisch, Piz, 185 
Gspalterhorn (11,260'), 42 
Guferhorn (11.132'), 299 
Guggistrat, the (7,035'), 60 
Guglielmo, Monte (6,274'), 462 
Gulmen (5,873'), 243 
Gummflnh, the (8,068'), 20 
Gurnigel, Hoeh (5,066'), 26 
Giiz, Piz (11,066'), 386 
Gyrenspitz, the, 238 


H ACKEN, the (4.570'), 172 

Hahnenschritthorn (9,319'), 17 
Hasenmatt, the (4,754'), 30 
Hasenohr (10,673'), 419, 431, 439 
Hausstock, the, 105 
Heinzenberg, the (about 7,000’), 302 
Helgiohorn (9,302'), 251 
Hirzli (5,372'), 188 
Hochofenwand, 434 
Hochwacht (2,887'), 161, 186 
Hockenhorn (10,817'), 45 
Hohe Kasten (5,902'), 239 
Hohgant, the (7,216'), 60 
Hohsandhorn, (10,515'), 253 
Holzihorn (9.810'), 252 
Hornfluh, the (6,40H'), 20 
Hiihnerthalistock, the (10,607'), 81 
Hunnenfluh, the, 76 


J AMAN, Dent de (6,165'), 12, 23 
Jatzstock, the, 223 
Juchli, the (7,131'), 134 
Jochlistock, the (8,633'), 81 
Jungfrau, the (13,761'), 74,91 


K AIEN, the (3.668'), 236 

Kaiseregg, the (7,188'), 26 
Kaiserstuhl (7,674'), ($ 26, Rte. G.) 176 
Kaiserstuhl (8,259'), ($ 26, Hte. L.), 182 
Kalteberg (9,505'), 351 
Kammerstock (7,029'), 191 
Kammlistock (10,699'), 198 
Kamorspitze (5,748'), 239 
Karpfstock (9,179'), 225, 228 
Kastelhorn (10,246'), 314 
Kesch, Piz (11,211'), 371 
Kirchelisp'tz (8,498'), 360 
Kistenstock, the, 222 
Klimsenhorn (6,555'), 150 
Kompatsch (11,065'). 434 
Koneu-Spitze (11,095'), 419 
Kdnigsspitze (12,646'), 420, 431 
Krachenhorn (9,495'), 378 
Kratzernwald,24) 

Kreuz (7,218'), 356 
Kreuzlistock, 220 
Kriegalpstock, 254 
Kronberg (5,381'), 237 
Kiihalpthalhorn (10,125'), 378 
Kuhbodenhorn (10,082'), 273 


L aaser spitze (10,8*27') 420 

Lagalp, Piz ( 9 , 718 '), 413 


MU ? 

Lago, Cima del (9,892'). 382 

Lago Scuro. Corno del (10,373 ), 476 

Lago Spalmo, Corno di, 416 

Languard, Piz (10,715'), 394 

Largo, Cima del (11,162'), 408 

Laris, Crozzon di (10.8*9'), 477, 480 

Laubergrat (7,352'), 132 

Lauchenspitz (7,753'), 440 

Laufbodenhorn (8,901'), 48 

Laurasca, Cima di (7,26 1 '), 318 

Legnone, Monte (8,568'), 457 

Leiterberg, the, 229 

Lenzerhorn (9,544'), 366 

Limidario, Monte (7,165'), 306 

Linard, Piz (11,208'), 358 

Litzner, Gross (10,250'), 353 

Lobbia Alta (10,578'), 477. Bassa (9,696'), 477 

Lochliberg (9,990'), 303 

Loffelhorn (10,138'), 81, 83 

Lumbreda, Pizzo della (9,768'), 284 

Lun, Piz (4,165'), 208 

Lungen, Piz (10,400'), 379 

Lunghino, Pizzo (9,121'), 379 


M ADARO, Pizzo di (8,366'), 315 

Madatsch-Spitze, (11,244), 420, 423 
Madrishorn (9,344'), 361 
Madritsch-Spitze, 436 
Mageren (8,294'), 206, 229 
Magno, Pizzo (7,877'), 278 
Mahrenhorn (0,839'), 143 
Mainghorn (9,679'), 40 
Maipitschspitz (10,374'), 446 
Mandron Alto, Monte (10,904'?), 476 
Marchenspitze ^8,816'), 314 
March horn (9,722'), 251 
Marcio (9,533'), 381 
Mare, Pallon della (12,038'), 426 
Margna, Piz (10,355'), 389 
Marrone, Pizzo 
Marschollhorn (9,521'), 285 
Masuccio, Monte (9,252'), 403 
Mattstock (6,400'), 243 
Mayen, Tour de (7,622'), 9, 22 
Mayenfelder Furka (8,022';, 373, 37 
Meggenhorn, 150 
Mendola, the, 441 
Menone, Pizzo (7,372'), 339 
Merdasson, Dent de (6,132'), 22 
Merzenbachschien (10,532'), 248 
Mettenberg (10,443'), 67 
Miezdi, Piz (9,258'), 213, 293 
Mintschun (10,076'), 363, 392 
Mittaghorn (12,761'), 99 
Mittelhorn (12,166'), 120 
Moine, Tetedu (7,713'), 11 
Moleson, the (6,578'), 22 
Monch (13,438'), 112. «chwarz (8,675'), 72 
Morcles, Dent de (9,639'), 3, 12 
Morgenhorn (11,733'), 43 
Morra, La (9,656'), 213 
Morteratsch, Piz (12.316'), 397 
Mottasio, Dosso (9,879'), 336 
Moveran, Grand (10.043'), 3, 12 
Muccia, Pizzo di (9,721'), 285, 292 
Miinshuns, Piz (9,751'), 425 
Mundaun, Piz (6,775'), 213,295 
Munteratsch (11,106'), 368 
Muottas (8.273'), 390 
Muraun. Piz (9,511'), 215 
Murterol, Piz (10,423'), 443 
Miirtschenstock, the, 189 




496 


INDEX TO THE 


MUT 

Mutthorn (9,957'), 99 
Mutthom (10,181'), 272 
Muttler (10,824'), 363, 393 
Mythen, the (6,244'), 170 


N AGLER Spitze (10,687'), 420 
Nair, Piz (10,040'), 388 
Napf, the, 128 

Nardis, Cima di (11,688'),471 
Nave, Dent de (6,693'), 22 , z 3 
Ner, Piz (10,072'), 214 
Nesthorn, Gross (12,533'), 94 
Niesen, the (7,763'), 33 
Nudo, Monte (3,636'), 343 
Nuna, Piz (10,263'), 391 
Nurschallas, Piz, 219 


O BERAARHOUN (11,923'), 114, 125 
Oberalp.'tock, 184 
Ochsenstock, 195 
Oeschinen Rothhorn (10,827'), 43 
Oeschinenhorn (11,457'), 43 
Ofen, the, 185 
Ofenhorn (10,728'), 252 
Ofen wand (11,558'), 420 
Oldenhorn (10,250'), 3, 11, 15 
Olmenhorn (10,853'), 87 
Orgelspitze, 435 
Oro, Monte d’ (10.545'), 411 
Orteler Spitze (12,814'), 420, 424 
Ot, Piz (10,660'), 390 


P ABELL A, Piz (9,459'), 390 

Palle della Mare (11.920'), 419 
Pallon della Mare (12,038'), 419 
Palu, Piz (12,835'), 396 
Palii, Pizzo della (10,724'), 382 
Pederspitze, Mittlere (11,349'), 420, 434 
Pederspitze, Innere (10,768'), 420, 437 
Pers, Mont (10,532'), 395 ' 

Pesciora, Pizzo (10,246'), 273 
Plannenstiel (2,633'), 186 
Pilatus (7,290'), 150 
Pioda, Pizzo (8,727'), 314 
Pisoch, Piz (10,427'), 392 
Platta, Piz (11,109'), 368, 381 
Plattenberg (10,253'), 226, 300 
Plattenhorner, 357 
Plessura, Monte (9,941'), 423 
Porcellizzo, Pizzo (10,092'), 406 
Prata, Pizzo di (8,6C3'), 321 
Praz, Le, 20 

Presanella, the (11,082’), 471 
Presolana, Monte ( 8 , 202 '), 462 
Puzata, Piz (10,262'), 216, 276 


Q UADRO, Pizzo del (9,925'), 286 
Quatervals, Piz (10,358'), 390 


E ADERTENSTOCK (7,530'), 183 
Radolfshoen (8,597'), 140 
Ralligstock, the, 64 
Rancio, Sasso (5,478'), 325 
Randen, Hoh (3,008'), 203 
Rautispitz, the (7,494'), 181, 189 
Kavegeha, Piz (9,«75'), 219, 274 
Redorda, Corona di (9,214'), 306 
Redorta, Monte (9,980'), 459 
Regina, Piz (9,436), 296 


8CH 

Regina Pizzo (1,885') 45 ) 

Reidelstock (9,192'), 180, 190 
Resegone, Monte (6,155'), 459 
lthsetikon, the, 349 
Rienzerstock (9,777'), 184, 262 
Rigi, the (5,905'), 160, 161, 162, 163 
Rigi Kulm (5,905'), f62,167 
Rigi Staffel (5,210'), 162, 164 
Rigi Rothstock (5,545'), 162, 166 
Rigi Scheidegg (5406'), 163, 166 
Rinderhorn (11,372').37 
Ringelspitz (10,660'), 185 
Rizlihorn (10,744'), 81, 143 
Roccabella (8,940'), 368 
Rocchetta, Cima delle (10,777'), 471 
Roen, Monte (6,919'), 442 
Rondadura (9,902'), 276 
Roseg, Piz (12,936'), 397 
Rosenhorn (12,107'), 120 
Rossa, Cima (9,886'), 253 
Rossberg, 169 

Rosso Fil (10,066'), 279, 292 

Rossthali (9,629'), 358 

Rothe, the, 195 

Rothhorn (11,644'), 91, 126 

Rothhorn, Faldum (9,311'), 46 

Rothhorn, Ferden (10,253';, 46 

Rothhorn, Oeschinen (10,827 ). 43 

Rothhorn, Parpaner (9,518'), 374 

Rothhorn, Resti (9,761'), 4 (i 

Rothspitz, Hintere (10,344'), 419,436 

Rothstock, Engelberger ( 9 , 251 ') 176 

Rothstock, Uri (9,620'), 176 

Rotondo, Pizzo (10,489'), (§ 30, Rte. C), 273 

Rnblihorn, the (7,569'), 20 

Ruchi, Gross (10,295'), 176, 198 

-Klein, 198 

Ruchi, the (10,226'), 222 
Ruppen, 238 

Russein, Piz, or Stockgron (11,411'), 184, 194 

S AASHORN (9,977'), 273 

St. Michael Piz (10,371'), 367 
Saline( 11,772'), 419, 427 
Salvatore, Monte( 3 , 051 '), 334 
San Giacomo, Cima di (10,752'), 477 
San Gottardo, Sasso di (8,983'),*266 
San Martino. Sasso di, 327 
San Matteo, Puuta di (11,921'), 419 
San Primo, Monte (5,236'). 345 
Sandgipfel, 194 
Sandhubel (9,075'), 374 
Sanetschhorn (9,679'), 16 
Saoseo, Cima di (10,729'), 404 
Sardonagebirg, 185 
Sassalbo, Pizzo (2.377'), 404,413 
Sassberg (6,555), 190 
Saurenstock (10,026'), 227 
Scalino, Pizzo (10,925'). 411 412 
Scalotta/Piz (10,112'),381 ’ 

Scesa Plana (9,738'), 235 
Schafherg (7,8^4'), 240 
Scharte, Jainger, 431, 434 
Scheibenstoll, the (7,556'), 244 
Scheerhorn (10.814'), 178,198 
Scheibe, the (9,587'), 185 
Scheibenstol, the (7,554'), 205 
Scherboda. Piz (10,250'), ^97 
Scheuchzerhorn (11,463'), 114 
Sc h even stock, the, 182 

Schienberg, the (6,837'), 183 
Schieuhorn (12,638'), 94 





PEAKS OR MOUNTAINS. 


497 


8CFI 

S^hienigp Platte (7,493'), 60 

Set)iIt (7,503'), 18 I 

Scbilt (9,462'), 362 

Schllthorn (9,728'), 76 

Schindler Spitze, 351 

Schlossberg (10,2630, 261 

Schlossli Kopf (7,313'), 185 

Schneehorn, the (11,158'?), 113, 124 

Schneidegg, Grosse (6,910'), 67 

Schoneboden, the (3.523'), 173 

Schontauf-Spitze (10,893'), 4 '0 

Schontauf-Spitze (10,893'), 436, 437 

Schorren (5,638'), 130 

Schreckhorn (13,394'), 116 

Schreckliorn, Klein (11.473'), 70 

Schreckhorn, Lesser (11.801'), 119 

Schwarz-horn (10,656'), 358 

Schwarzhorn (10.3'<8'). 377 

Schwarzhorn (9,507'), 67 

Schweifen Grat, 252 

Scopi, the (10,499'), 276 

Sena, Pizzo di (10,099'), 413 

Seesvenna, Piz (10,56') ,446 

Sefinen Fnrke (8,566'), 97 

Segneshorn (10,.*70'), 224 

Selbsanft, the (9,632'). 192 

Sella, Piz (1 1.8M5M, 397 

Sentis, the (8,215'), 237 

Serrotini, Mome (9,616'), 460 

Sidelhorn (!(,4 49'), 80 

Signina Stock (9,428'), 302 

Signori, Corno dei Tre (10,912'), 419, 428 

Signori, Pizzo dei Tre, 452 

Silberhorn (12,1'6'), 72, 74 

Silvretta Alps, 349 

Simelihorn, 70 

Six Madutia, or Badus (9,616'), 219 
Sobretta, Monte (about 11,000'), 4Z8 
Sol, Piz (9,340'). 208, 228 
Sommerikopf the (4,517'), 240 
Sonnenhorn (9,147'), 314 
Sovrano, Citna di (10,040'). 382 
Spalavera, Monte (6,*22'), 318 
Spancirter (10,492'), 261 
Sparrenhorn (9,*89'), 93 
Spinale, Monte (8,198'', 470 
Spitzalpeli, Hinter (9,842') 98 
Spitzalpeli, Vorder (9,596'), 198 
Spitzhorn (7,224'), 99 
Spitzliberg (11,214'), 138 
Spitzmeilen, the (8,218'), 206 
Spluga, Monte (9,35i'), 405 
Stallerberg (8,478'). 381 
Stammerspiize (10,6*3'), 363 
Starlera, Piz (10,0(9 (), 380 
Statzerhorn (8,458'), 211,366 
Stazerhorn 6,332'), 133 
Steghorn (10,332') 37. 53 
Steinhaushnrn (10,350'), 143 
Stella, Pizzo (10,2 ; 6'), 382, 383 
Stella, Corno (8,845'). 451 
Stockgron (11,411'). 184, 219 
Stockhorn (7,195'). 21 
Stretta, Piz della (10.197'), 390 
Stulsergrat (8,471'), 372 
Studerhorn (11,916'), 126 
Sulden-Spitze (li, 109'),420, 434 
Sulegsr, the (7.910) 61, 95 
Snlzfluh (9,324'), 235, 360 
Snrettaborn (9,971' and 9,925'), 380 
Surlei, Tiz (10,456'), 394, 397 
Snstenhorn (11,529'), 138 
Suvreta Piz (10,085'), 398 
PART II. 


VRE 

T AMBOHORN (10,748'), 284 
Taureau, Grand (4,350'), 4 
Taviela, Pizzo (11,472'), 419 
Tenca, Pizzo di Campo (10,096'), 310 
Tendre, Mont (5,512'), 8 
Teo, Pizzo di (10,007'), 404 
Terre, Pizzo (10,165'), 284, 320 
Terri, Piz (10,338'), 297 

Tgietschen, or Piz Cotschen (10,925'), 184, 216 

Tgietschen, Culm, 221 

Thierberg, the (10,410'), 113 

Thurwieser Spitze (11,962'), 420 

Tiarms, Piz de (9,564'), 218 

Tinzenhorn (10,276'), 367 

Titlis (10.620'?), 135, 130 

Todi, the (11,887'), 184, 194 

Todi, Klein (10,072'), 194, 221 

Toma, Piz, 219 

Tombea, Monte (about 6,800'), 485 

Tumlishorn (6,997'). 150 

Tonale, Monte (8,830'), 449 

Torrenthorn (9,679'), 40 

Torrone, Pizzo (10,827'), 408 

Tosa, La, 488 

Trafoier Spitze, 420 

Tramenago, Pizzo di (11,842'), 419 

Treme, Tour de, 12 

Tremoggia, Piz (11,326'), 395 

Tr^sero, Monte (about 11.800'), 419, 426 

Trinserhorn (10,573'), 226 

Trubinesca, Punta (11,106'), 406 

Trugberg, the (12,904'), 88 

Tschierva. Piz (11,713'), 397 

Tschingel, Cima di (10,853'), 406 

Tschingelhorn (11,746'), 100 

Tumbif Piz, or Brigelserhorn (10,55y), 18ft, 


U CELLO, Pizzo d’ (8,911'). 285 
Uertsch, Piz (10,738'), 371 
Umbrail, Piz (9,954'', 422 
Uorao, Pizzo dell’ (9,022'), 276, 278 
Uri Rothstock (9,620'), 176 
Urlaun, Piz (11,063'), 214, 216 
Utliberg, the, 160 


V ACRED, Piz (10,6 O'), 376, 378 
Vadret, Piz (10.1*4'), 363 
Valrhein, Piz (11,148'), 291 
Valsertierg (8 225'), 301 
Vaulion, Dent de (4.877'), 8 
Venerocolo, Monte, 4‘ 3 
Venezia Siiitze (11,095'), 419, 436, 438 
Vent, Creux du (4,806'), 5 
Verona, Pizzo di, 399 
Vertrain-Snitze (11 371'), 420, 434 
Vespolo, Pizzo (7,648'), 401 
Vesulspitz (10,154'), 355 
Vi, Culm da, 219 
Video. Monta (11,361'), 420 
Vial, Piz (10,387'), 293 
Viescherhorn, Grosser (12,707 ), HO 
Viescherhorner, Walliser, 110 
Vinei, Pizzo di (9,708'). 265 
Vios, Moi.te (11,902'), 419. 427 
Vitznauer Stock (4,750'), 154 
Vogelfluh, the, 76 
Vogelisegg, the, 238 
Vbrab,the. 185 
Vrenelisgartli (9,534'), 180 

K K 




498 


INDEX TO THE PEAKS OR MOUNTAINS. 


WAL 

^^ALLISER VIESCHERHORNER, the, 

Wandfiuh, the, 64 

Wannehorn (12,195'), 83 

Wasenhorn (10,628';, 255 

Weissberg (9,987'), 380 

Weissfluh (9,262'), 373 

Weisse Frau (12,011'), 43 

Weisshorn (9,882'), (§ 23, Rte. F), 48 

Weisshorn (10,135'), (§34, Rte. D),357 

Weisshorn (8,701'), (^35, E), 375 

Weisshorn, Fluela (10,135'), (§35, Rte. F), 376 

Weissenstein, the, 30 

Weitenalpstock (9,875'), 220 

Weitsattel, the, 122 

Wellhorn (10,486'), 66 

Wetcerhorn, 120 

Wetterhorner, 120 

Widderfeld, (6,747'), 150 

Wiggis, the, 180 

Wildhorn (10,722'), 17, 49 

Wildstrubel, the (10,715'), 53 


zwo 

Windgelle, Crosse (10,464'), I7«, 198, 270 
Windgelle, Kleine (9,847'), 198, 269 
Windspill^n, Wallis (6,522'), 19 
Wissenstein (9,675'), 299 
Wylerhorn (6,283'), 130 


Z APPORTHORN (10,499', 298 
Zebru, Kleine (12,251'), 420 
Zeda, Monte (7,064'), 318 
Ziegerpalfen, 424 
Ziegerpalfen-Spitze, 420 
Zigola, Croz di Val (10,059'), 477 
Zinkenstock (9,087'), 113 
Zocca, Monte di (10,565'), 408 
Zucohero, Monte (8.980'), 308 
Zufridspitze, (11,262'), 419, 439 
Zugerberg (3,222'), 162 
Zupo, Piz (13,120'), 397 
Zutreibstock (8,687'), 192,198 
Zwdltihorn, the, 185 




INDEX 


TO 

THE ALPINE PASSES. 


-+o 


AGA 

A gassiz Joch, 112 

Albrun Pass (8,005'), 252 
Albula Pass (7,589 ), 371 
Aprica Pass (4,052'), 463 
Arlberg Pass (5,902'), 351 


B ALNISCIO, Passo di (7,715'), 336 
Bardan, Passo (8,490'), 336 
Bergli Joch, 124 
Bernardino Pass, 284 
Bernina Pass (7,658'), 413 
Bilsberg Joch (9,360'), 439 
Birchfluh Pass, 103 

Boccareccio, Passo di, or Ritter Pass (8,858'), 
254, 257 

Bockmatteli, 183 

Bondo, Passo di (about 10,000'), 407 
Braga, Forcola di (8,435'), 404 
Braulio, Passo di (8,242'), 422 
Brenta, Bocca di (8,502'’?), 487 
Briinig Pass (3,648'), 130 
Buffalora Pass (6,686'), 292 
Busin, Col di, 253 


C AINALLO Pass (about 4,000'), 455 
Camedo, Passo di (7,028'), 337 
Capiitschin Pass (about lOJJOO'), 410 
Casana Pass (8,832'), 418 
Cavell Joch (7,562'), 293, 360 
Cercen, Passo di (8,616'), 436 
Cercen, Passo di (10,030'), 40, Rte. A.), 471 

Cevedale, Passo, 430 
Chessalle-Eck (4,6'9'), 26 
Cheville, Col de (6,680'), 14 
Clariden Grat (about 9,800'), 198 
Colonna, Col della, 318 
Croce Domini Pass (about 6,500'), 465 
Croix, Col de la (5,705'), 12 
Cruschetta, La (7,599'), 446 

D IA VOLEZZA Pass (9,670'), 396 
Diavolo, Passo del (9,541'), 477 
Dossrotond, Pass of (7,249'), 443 
Drusenthor (7,8220, 360 
Diindengrat (8,619' ?), 42 
Duron Pass, 482 

E iger Joch, ios 

Engelberger Joch, 135 
Eschia Pass (9,347 7, 390 


HOH 

F ALDUM Pass, 46 
Ferden Pass, 40, 46 
Fermunt Pass (9,206'), 362 
Fex Forcla (10,1120, 397 
Fimber Joch (8,547'), 363 
Finsteraar Joch, 116 
Fisiten Pass (6,728'), 191 
Fluela Pass (7,891'), 376 
Forcellina Pass (8,770')* 380, 381 
Forcola, Passo della (7,274'), 316, 336 
Forcolaccio, the, 314 
Fornaccia, Passo della (11,500' ?), 43 
Forno, Passo del (11,041'), 427 
Forno, Scatta del (8,291'), 315 
Foscagno Pass (6,329'), 417 
Furcletta, 444 
Furka Pass (7,992'), 272 
Furka, Grosse (7,546'), 360 
Furka, Kleine, 360 
Furka, Criner (7,631'), 314 
Furtwang Pass (about 8,700'), 143 
Futscholl Pass (9,078), 363,391 


G AMBRE, Passo di, 398 
Gampadel Joch (?), 360 
Gampen Pass, 441 
Ganterisch Pass, 26 
Garneira Joch (8,071'), 357, 361 
Gatto, Passo del, 404 
Gauli Pass, 124 
Gavardina Pass, 484 
Gavia Pass (about 8,GOO 7 ), 463 
Geisspfad Pass, or Col della Rossa (8,1 W), 254 
Gelten Pass (9,285'), 17 
Gemmi Pass (7,553'), 37 
Ghiacetto, Passu del Lago (about 9,437'), 476 
Giumella, Passo di (6,955'), 292 
Gramsen Joch, 436 
Greina Pass (7,743'), 294 
Grialetsch Pass, 376 
Gribelle Joch, 364 
Gries Pass, 248 
Grimmi Pass (6,234'), 51 
Grimsel Pass (7,103'), 81 
Groppera, Passo, 383 


H OHE, Auf der (5,056*), 243 

Hchenierner Joch (10,000'?), 437 






500 


INDEX TO THE ALPINE PASSES. 


JAM 

J AMAN, Col de (4,872’) 22 
Julier Pass (7,503'). 308 
Jungfrau Joch (ll,09y),89, 108 


K AMOR Pass, 239 

Karrenegg Pass (5,249'), 183 
KirchbeTger Joch (8,134'), 439 
Klausen Pass (6,437'), 178 
Kinzig Kulm, 181 
Kreuzli Pass, 219 
Kriegalp Pass, 256 


L AASERTHAL Joch, 434 
Laasferner Joch, 434 
Lago, Passo del, 382 
Lammeren Joch, 47 
Langenferner Joch (10,765'), 430 
Lares, Passo di (9,230'), 480 
Laret Pass (5,338'), 373 
Laucheren (5,883'', 12 
Lauteraar Joch, 117 
Lavaz Joch, 293 
Laviner Joch (9,131'), 358 
Lavirum Pass (9,249'), 390, 418 
Lawmen Thor, 105 
Lobbia Alta, Passo della (9,956'), 477 
Lobbia Bassa, Passo della (9,541 ), 477 
Lochliberg Pass (8,169'), 303 
Lotschen Liicke (10,512'), 105 
Lotschen Pass (8,796'), 44 
Luckmanier Pass, 272, 276 


M ADESIMO, Passo di (7,480'), 383 
Madris, Passo di Val (8,793'), 383 
Madritsch Joch (10,252'), 436 
Maggia, Bocchetta di Val (above 9,000'), 314 
Maloya Pass (5,942 ?), 386 
Mare, Passo della (11.148'), 432 
Marocaro; Bochetta di,476 
Matsch Joch (10,750'?), 432 
Mendelscharte (4,964'), 442 
Monch Joch, 109, 111 
Montozzo, Passo di. 463 
Mortirolo, Passo (6,053'), 404 


N ARRET, Passo di (8,013'), 311 
Nera Pass (about 8,000'), 274 
Nuefelgiu, Pass of, 258 
Nufenen Pa6S (8,009 ), 273 


O BERAAR Joch (10,264'), 80, 125 
Oberalp Pass (6,732'), 218 
Ofen Pass (7,0700, 445 
Ofenwand Scbarie, 434 
Orsi, Col degli (10,847'), 427 
Orteler Joch (11,000'?), 433 


P ASSETTI, Col dei (6,806'), 292 

Pastori, Passo dei (above 9,000'), 443 
Peder Joch, 434, 437 
Peters Grat (about 10,550'), 102 
Pettnauer Joch, the, 299 
Philisma, Col de (5,010'), ll 
Pillon, Col de, or Pillenberg (5,092'), 18 
Plasseggen Pass (7,615'), 361 
Plattenberg Pass (9,088'), 200 
Plattenschlucht (9,314)', 299 
Pragel Pass (5,062'), 179 
Prese na.Passo di (9,6i7') t 476 


SUV 

R AMIN Pass, 228 

Rangg (2,323'). 132 
Rawyl Pass (7,943'), 49 
Redorea, Passo di (7,014'), 308 
Renfer Joch, 125 
Renggli Pass (5,774'), 95 
Resti Pass, 46 
Rieseten Pass (6,644'), 228 
Ritter Pass (8,858'), 252 
Rochette, Forcella di (about 9.000'), 407 
Rossa, Col della, or Geisspfad Pass (S.i'iO'), 254 
Rossa, Passo della Vedretta (11,041';, 427 
Rosso, Forcola di (8,819'), 404 
Rothsattel, 127 
Rovano, Passo (8,596'), 399 
Russein Pass, 196 


S ACCO, Passo di (9,026 ), 404 
Saent Pass, 436 
Saille, Frfete de, 12 
St. Antonier Joch (7,848'), 361 
St. Gothard, Pass of, 265 
Salatschigna Pass, 3 W 9 
Salet Pass (9,565'), 393 
Salto, Passo del, 449 
Satnina Joch (7.795'), 360 
San Giacomo, Passo di, 250 
Sand Grat Pass (9,138'). 221 
Sanetsch Pass (7,309'). 16 
San Jorio, Passo di (6,417'), 337 
San Marco, Passo di (5,997'), 457 
San Martino, Forceila di (8,957'), 408 
San Valentino. Passo di (aoout 9,300'), 480 
Sardasca Pass (?), 362 
Sardona Pass, 227 
Sassiglione, Forcola di (8,333'), 404 
Satteli Pass, 135 
Sauren Joch, 227 
Sausgrat Pass, 96 
Scaradra Pass (9,088'),300 
Scerscen Pass (9,912'), 411 
ScheMegg, Grosse (6,910'), (§ 24, Rte. B), 67 
Scheidegg Pass (about 7,000'), (§ 28, Rte. L) 243 
Scheidegg, Schwandi (4,698'), 183 
S'-hlappiner Joch (7,185'), 356, 361 
Schmadri Joch, 106 
Schneidschur Pass (9,413'), 40, 46 
Schonegg Pass (6,652'), 176 
Schiindli, Pass of the (5,610 ), 12 
Schweizerthor (7,120'), 360 
Segnes Pass (8,612'), 224 
Sella Pass, 399 
Septimer Pass (7,582'), 379 
Sertig Pa<s (9,062'), 378 
Sforzellino, Passo di (9,950'), 427 
Spliigen Pass, 319 
Strahleck Pass (10.994 ), 115 
Stege Pass (6,057'), 302 
Stein Joch, 139 
Steinlimmi Pass, 142 
Stelvio Pass (9,177'), 423 
Sterla, Passo di Val (9,515'), 383 
Storegg Pass, 134 
Strela Pass (7,799'). 375 
Stretta, Passo della (8,1430 417 
Strubeleck Pass, 47 
Studer Joch, 126 
Sulden Joch, 437 
Surenen Pass (7,578'), 175 
Surlei Forcla (9,042'), 397 
Susten Pass, 138 
Suvretta Pass (8,589'), 398 





TIA 


INDEX TO THE ALPINE PASSES. 


ZTJF 


501 


T IARMS, Passo da, 218 
Tomils Pass (7,9300, 299 
Tonal Pass (6,4830. 459 
Topeti, Passo dei (9,1260, 477 
Trafoier Joch (about 10,8000, 433 
Tresculmene, Passo di (7,0640 , 292 
TrefUomini, Col dei, 292 
Tr itlimmi, 141 
Trona, Passo di, 453, 456 
Triittlisberg Pass (6,2350 , 52 
Tschingel Pass (9,2520, 101 


Y ALTENDRA, Col di, 257 
Vereina Pass (8,1330, 357 
Viescher Joch, 112 
Vignitz Pass (8,8550, 364 
Vignone. Passo di. 284 
Viola, Passo di Val (about 7,9000, 415, 416 
Vios, Passo di (10,8680, 427 
Voralpstock, 262 

W IDDER STEINER Furke (6,608'?), 226 
Wormser Joch (8,242'), 422 


U MB RAIL Pass (8,242'), 418, 430 
Unteraar Joch, 127 
Uomo, Passo dell’ (7,257'), 278 
Usciolo, L’ (?), 448 


Z EBLES Pass (8,3330, 363 

Zebru, Passo di (9,700'?), 433 
Zeyneser Joch (6,162'), 353 
Zocca, Passo di (8,957'), 408 
Zufrid Joch (9,905 0* 439 













> ' 




























































■ 









GENERAL INDEX. 


-*o* 


AA 

A A, the Engelberger, 173 
Aa, river, 131 
Aarau, 157 
Aarburg, 31 

Ablantschen, village of, 12 
Abscbwung, promontory of, 113 
Acqua Fragyia, Lago di', 383 
Acqua, Hospital all’, 273 
Adamello district (§ 40), 467 
Adelboden, 47, 51,53 
Adula district (§ 31), 279 

JEggischhorn, Lauterbrunnen to the (§ 24, 
Rte. H), 103 

TEggischhorn, Grindelwald to the (§ 24, Rte. I), 
106 

Aiggischhorn, Grimsel to the (§ 24, Rte. O/, 125 
Aerner, village of, 252 i 

iEsch Alp, 178 
iEschi, 34 

ASschi, village of, 95 
Ager, village of, 253 
Agnelli, Val d’, 368 
Agno, river, 333 
Agno, village of, 338 
Agnolo, Val, 471 
Agone, Val, 413 
Aigle, 8 
Airolo, 266 

Airolo to Andermatt, by the Val Canaria (§ 30, 
Rte. E), 274 

Airolo, Dissentis to, by the Passo dell’ Uomo 
(§ 30, Rte. G), 278 

Airolo, Formazza (Andermatten) to, by the 
Passo di San Giacomo § 29, Rte. B), 250 
Airolo, Locarno to, by the Val Lavizzara 
(§32, Rte. C), 309 

Airolo, Locarno to, by Val Bavona (§ 32, 
Rte. D), 311 

Airolo, Obergestelen to, by the Nufenen Pass 
(§ 30, Rte. D), 273 
Alanza Maggiore, village of, 439 
Albaredo, 451 
Albeuve, village of, 22 
Albigna Glacier, 408 
Albisbrunn, 161 
Albula district (§35), 364 
Aletsch Glacier, Mittler, or Aren, 84,87 ; Ober, 

93 

Almenno, village of, 450 
Alpnach,131 
Alpnacher See, 153 
Alpthal, village of, 172 
Alserio, Lake of, 345 
Alt St. Johann, 240 
Altanca, hamlet of, 278 
Altdorf, town of, 156, 175 

Altdorf, Cologne to, by Basle, Olten, and 
Lucerne (§ 26, Rte. A), 147 
Altdorf, Stanzstad to, by Engelberg and the 
Surenen Pass (§26, Rte. F), 173 


ARN 

Altdorf, Stanz to, by Isenthal (§ 26, Rte. G), 175 
Altdorf, Stanz to, by Beckenried and the Son. 

nenberg (§26, Rte. H), 176 
Altdorf to Stachelberg, by the Klausen Pass 
26, Rte. I), 177 

Altdorf, Muotta to (§ 26, Rte. L), 181 
Altmatt, 172 
Altstadten, 235 

Altstadten, St. Gall to (§ 28, Rte. E), 238 
Alvaschein, village of, 369 
Alveneu, village of, 372 

- Baths of, 370 

Airier torrent, 351 
Amblar, 442 
Ambria, Val, 402, 440 
Amden, village of, 205 
Amerten Glacier, 48 
Amolo, La Porta dell’, 471 
Ampola, Val, 483 
Amsoldingen, 21, 33 

Amsteg, Stachelberg to, by the Clariden Grat 
(§ 27, Rte. B), 197 

Amsteg, Dissentis to (§ 27, Rte. E), 219 
Amsteg, excursions from (§ 30, Rte. B), 269 
An deer, 283 

Andeer to Casaccia, by the Aversthal (§ 35, 
Rte. K), 379 

Andeer to Campo Dolcino, by the Aversthal 
(§ 35, Rte. M), 383 
Andermatt, 218, 264 

Andermatt, Dissentis to, by the Oberalp Pass 
(§ 27, Rte. D), 217 

Andermatt, Aiiolo to, by the Val Canaria (§30, 
Rte. E). 274 

Andermatten, hamlet of, 249 
Andermatten, Locarno to, in Val Formazza 
(§ 32, Rte. E). 314 
Andolo, hamlet of, 488 
Anfo, Rocco d’, castle of, 474 
Anfo, village of, 474 
Annone, Lago d’, 346 
Antabbia, Val, 312, 314 
Antigorio, Val, 247, 250 
Antognasco, Val, 402 
Anzeindaz, 14 
Appenzell, 236 

Appenzell, Rorschach to (§ 28, Rte. D), 235 
Arbaz, village of, 18 
Arbedo, village of, 268 
Arbois, 4 

Ardetz, Galthiir to, by the Futscholl Pass, 362 

Ardetz, village of, 391 

Aren, or Mittler Aletsch Glacier, 87 

Areuethal, the, 284 

Argegno, 328 

Argegno to Porlezza, by the Val Intelvi (§33, 
Rte. H), 339 
Arnen See, 18 
Arnen Thai, 18 
Arno, Lago d’, 460, 479 






504 


ARN 


GENERAL INDEX. 


Arno torrent, 473 
Arona, 307 

Arona, Bellinzona to. or Sesto Calende, by the 
Lago Maggiore (§ 32, Kte. A), 304 
Arosa, hamlet of, 374 
Arth, 104. 16S 
Arth to the ltigi, 104 
Arvigo, 292 
Ascona, Ronco d’, 305 
Ascona, village of, 3l)6 
Assa, Val, 393 
Assina, Val, 344 
Asso*. village of. 345 
Attinghaosen, 175 
Au, peninsula of, 186 
Augto, 292 
Augst. 29 
Auta, Pont, 391 
Auvernier, 5 

Avalanches of tbe Jungfrau, 73 
Avenches, town of, 25 
Aven$on, valley of the, 13 
Avent, village of, 15 
Averara. village of. 451 
Averser Rhine. 379 
Avigna Val, 446 
Avio, Val di, 451 
Ayent, hamlet of, 56 


B AAR. village of, 161 
Baceno, village of, 254 
Bachli, K1 
B'achli Glacier, 79 
Baden, town of, 157 
Badus, the, or Six Maduna, 219 1 
Bagni, Val de’, 406 
Bagolino. village of, 465 
Balbianello, promontory of, 326 
Ballabio, hamlets of, 454 
Ballino, 482 
Balmwand, 178 
Banisegg, 69 

Barbellino, Cascata del, 449 

Barbellino. Val, 450 

Barcuns, Val, 220 

Barenth.il, the, 372 

Bargis, glen of, or Rargias Thai, 212 

Barone, Lago, 309 

Bas^l or Basle, city of, 28 

Basel, Klein, 148, 202 

Basle to Lucerne, by Zurich (§26, Rte. B), 157 
Basle to Dissentis, by Schaifhausen and Coire 
£§ 27, Rte. C), 202 
Batlis, 205 

Bauen, hamlet of. 156 

Bavona torrent, 310 

Bavona, Val, 311 

Beatenberg, village of, 60 

Bea enhohle. or cave of St. Beatus, 64 

Beckenried, 155, 477 

Bedole, 475 

Bedole, Vedretta di, 475 
Bedretto, Val, 266. — village of, 273 
Bell Alp, the, 93 
Bellaggio, village of, 325 
Bellaggio to Erba, by Val Assina (§ 33, Rte. 
K), 344 

Bellano, village, 330 

Bellano. Lecco to, by Val Sassina (§ 38, Rte. 
E), 453 

Bellano, Morbegno to, by Val Varrone (§ 38, 
Rte. G), 456 


BLA 

Bellegarde, Val de, 12 
Belierive, baths of, 29 
Bellinzona, town of, 268 

Bellinzona, Fluelen to, by the St. Gothard 
Pass (§ 30, Rte. A), 259 

Bellinzona, Disseu is to, by the Lukmanier 
Pass (§ 30. Rte. F), 274 
Bellinzona, Coire to, by the Bernardino P.iss 
(§ 31, Rte. A), 280 

Bellinzona to Arona, or Sesto Calende, by the 
Lago Maggiore (§ 32, Rte. A), 304 
Bellinzona to Como, by Lugano (§ 33, Rte. 
C) 333 

Bellinzona, Gravedona to (§33, Rte. F), 337 
Belviso, Val, 463 
Berbenno, village of, 401 
Bergamasque Alps i § 38), 448 
Bergamo, city of, 439 

Bergamo to Tirano, by Val Seriana (§ 38, 
Rte. A), 439 

Bergamo to Sondrio, by Val Brembana (§ 38, 
Rte. B), 450 

Bergamo to Morbegno, by the Passo di San 
Marco (§38, Rte. C), 451 
Bergamo to Breno in Val Camonica, by Lovere 
(§39, Rte. B), 461 

Bergamo to Breno, by Clusone (§ 39, Rte. C), 

462 

Bergiin, 340 

Bernardo, St , village of, 435 
Berne, city ot, 31 

Berne, Vevey to (§ 22, Rte. I), 23 
Berne, Lausanne to (§ 22, Rte. K), 24 
Berne to Lucerne, by the Entlebuch (§ 24, 
Rte. P), 127 
Bernes torrent, 441 
Bernese Oberland (§ 24), 54 
Bernina district (§ 36), 383 
Bernina, tour of the (§ 36, Rte. D), 398 
Bernina Inn,412 
Berzona, village of, 315 
Bever, Val, 398 
Bevers, 390 

Bevers to St. Moritz, by Val Bever (§ 36, 
Rte. C), 398 
Bex, 12 

Bex, Ormond Dessus to (§ 22, Rte. C). 12 
Bex to Sion, by the Col de Cheville (§ 22, 
Rte. D), 13 
Bianco, Lago, 413 
Biandina, Val, 457 
Bianzone,403 
Biasca, village of, 267, 278 
Biberbruck,172 
Bienne, 30 

Bifertenbach, the, 193 
Biferten Glacier, 194 
Bignasco, village of, 310 
Bigorio, convent of, 3.15 
Bildhaus, 235 
Binn, village of. 252 
Binne torrent, 251 
Binnenthal, the, 251 
Birmensdorf, village of, 158 
Birs, valley of the, 29 
Bisithal, 179, 182 
Bisolo, Val di Sasso, 405 
Bissone, 335 
Bitto, Val del, 451, 453 
Bivio, village of, 368 

Bivio to Casaccia, by the Septimer Pass (5 35, 
Rte. I). 378 

Blacken Alp, chalets of, 175 



GENERAL INDEX 


505 


BLE 

Blegim, Val, 279 
Bludenz,351 

Bludenz to Landeck, by Montafun and the Paz- 
naunthal (§ 34, Kte. B), 352 
Blumenstein, 26 
Blumlis Alp, 43 
Bliimlis Alp Gletscher, 42 
Boazze, 478 
Bockischlund, 175 
Bodengo, Val, 336 
Bodio, 2G7 
Boganggen Alp, 96 
Bolladore, 404 
Boltingen, village of, 21 
Bonaduz, 214, 281 
Bondasca, Val, 3*6 
Bondasca Glacier, 407 
Bondione, Val, 449 
Bondione, village of, 451 
Bondo, 396, 473 

Bondo, Morbegno to, by the Passo di Bondo, 
407 

Bondoler, Val, 257 
Bondone, 473, 474 
Boiiingen, 60 
B irlezza torrent, 462 
Barmina, Val, 428 
Bormio, town of, 404. 421 
Bormio, Baths of, 421 

Bormio, Colico to, by the Val Tellina (§ 36, 
Rte. E), 400 

Bormio, Pontresina to (4’ 36, Ilte. L), 415 
Bormio to the Engadine, by Val Livigno (§ 36, 
Rte. M), 417 

— — to Scants by the Casana Pass, 418 

-to Ponte by the Lavirum Pass, 4;8 

-to Zernetz, 418 

Bormio to Mals (§ 37, Rte. A). 420 
Bormio to Trento, by Val Furva and Val di 
Sole (§ 37, Rte. B), 425 
Bormio to Santa Maria (§ 37, Rte, K), 442 
Borzago, Val di, 472 
Bosco, Val di, 314 
BGthenbach, village of. 130 
Botzen, Cles to (§ 37, Rte. I), 441 
Boudry, 7 

Bovegno, village of, 466 
Bramtnerthal, the, 351 
Branzi, village of, 450 

Bregaglia, Val, Morbegno to the, by Val Ma- 
sino (§ 36, Rte. F), 405 

-to Castasegna, by the Forcelladi Rochette, 

405 

-to Bondo, by the Passo di Bondo, 407 

— to Vico Soprano, by the Passo di Zocca,407 
Bregalga, Val, 381 
Bregenz, town of, 350 

Bregenz to Landeck, by Feldkirch and the 
Ailberg Pass (§ 34, Rte. A), 350 
Breguzzo, Val. 473 
Breitlauenen Glacier, 98 
Breithorn Glacier, 98 
Brenno river, 277 
Breno, 460 

Breno in Val Camonica, Bergamo to, by Lovere 
f§ 39. Rte. B), 461 

Breno, Bergamo to, by Clusone (§ 39, Rte. C), 
462 

Breno to Lodrone, by the Croce Domini Pass 
(§ 39, Rte. G), 465 
Brenta, Val, 487 
Brenzio, village of, 325 
Brescia, city of, 461 


CAM 

Brescia, Malt? in Val di Sole to, by the Tonale 
Pass and Val Camonica (§ 39, Rte. A), 459 
Brescia to Lodrone, by Val Trompia (§ 39, 
Rte. 1), 466 

Brescia to Vestone in Val Sabbia (§ 39, Rte. 
K), 467 

Breva or south wind, 323 
Brianza, district of, 344 
Brieg, 84 

Brieg, Viesch to, by the TEggischhorn and 
Bell Alp (§ 24, Rte D), 84 
Brieg, Meyringen to, by the Gr'msel (§ 24, Rte. 
C), 76 

Brienz, 61,370 

Brienz, Thun to, by carriage-road, 63 
-by foot-path, 64 

Brienz or Meyringen to Lucerne, by the Bru« 
nig (§25, Rte. A), 130 
BrigeJs, village of, 222 
Brissago, village of, 306 
Bristen, village of. 220 
llrolla, Ponte, 309 
Bruderbalm, 165 
Brugg, village of, 157 
Bruggen, 232 
Brugnasco, hamlet of, 278 
Brtihlbach torrent, 237, 243 
Briillisau, village of, 243 
Briindlen Alp, 152 
Brunnen, Sieben, 49, 52 
Brunnen,155 

Brunnen, Lucerne to (§ 26, Rte. C), 168 

Brunnigletscher, 221 

Brunnithal, the, 178 

Brusio, 414 

Bubikon, 204 

Buchs, 235 

Bnflfalora, cascade of, 287 
Biihler, 236 
Bulle, town of, 19 

Bulle, Ormond Dessus to (§ 22, Rte. B), 11 

Bulle to Thun (§ 22, Rte. L), 26 

Buntschi torrent, 21 

Buochs, village of, 155,176 

Buochser See, 153 

Buono, Pieve di, village of, 473 

Buotsch, Val del, 444 

Bnrgdorf. 31 

Burgdorf, Interlaken to, by the Emmenthal 
(§ 24, Rte. Q), 128 
Burghalden, 186 
Btirglauenen, 71 
Biirglen, 177 
Burvein, hamlet of, 367 
Bussigny, 8 
Buzatsch, Val, 297 


C ABIONE, Val, 308 

Cadagna, Lago di, 278 
Cadenabbia, 326 
Cadelini, Val, 276 
Caf, I ago di, 479 
Cajolo, village of, 401, 451 
Calanca. Val, 292 
Calcaccia, waterfall of, 266 
t alende, Sesto, 308 

Calende, S^sto, Bellinzona to (§32, Rte A) 304 

Caleppio, Val, 461 

Calfaro, valley of the, 465 

Calneggia. Val, 312 

Camadia, Val, 294 

Cambrena Glacier, 414 



506 


GENERAL INDEX, 


CAM 

Cambrembo, village of, 451 
Camonica, Val, district (§ 39), 458 
Camperio, 277 
Camper, hamlet of, 388 
Campiglio, La Madonna di, 470 
Campione, 340 
Campo, 294 
Campo, Val di, 415 
Campocologno, 414 
Campovasto, 390 
Campsat, 380 
Canaria, Val, 274 
Caniciil, village of, 380 
Cannero, village of, 306 
Canobbina, Val, 215 
Canobbio, village of, 306 
Canobbio to Domo d’Ossola, by Val Canob¬ 
bina (§ 32, Rte. I), 317 
Cantoniera, 320 
Canzo, 345 
Capolago, 335 
Carassina, Val, 300 
Carnusa torrent, 302 
Caronella, Val, 403, 450 
Carrera, 212 
Casaccia, Val, 276 
Casaccia, village of, 386 

Casaccia, Bivio to, by the Septimer Pass (§ 35, 
Rte. I), 378 

Casaccia, Andeer to, by the Aversthal (§ 35, 
Rte. K), 379 

Casaccia to Sondrio, b] the Muretto Pass (§ 36, 
Rte. G), 409 
Casaco, village of, 341 
Casana, Val, 418 
Castasegna (2,362'), 385 

Castasegna, Morbegno to, by the Forcella d> 
Rochette, 405 
Castiglione, village of, 340 
Castione, village of, 462 
Catarina, Santa, village of, 426 
Cattaeggio, 405 
Cauma See, 212 
Cavaglia, Alp of, 415 
Cavaglio, 317 
Cavallina, Val, 462 
Cavardiras, Val, 221 
Cavargna, Val, 339 
Cavargna, village of, 339 
Cavel, Val, 296 
Cavreccia, Val, 379 
Cavrein, Val, 22 
Cedeh, Glacier, 

Cedeh, Val, 430 
Cedrasco, 451 
Cellerina, Val, 389 
Centovalli, Val, 316 
Ceppina, village of, 404 
Cercen, Val di, 475 
Cernobbio, 329 
Cerentino, 314 
Cevio, 310 
Cervo, Val, 401, 451 
Cham, 162 

Chandolin, village of, 153 
Charmey, commune of, 11 
Chateau d’Oex to Vevey, on foot or horse¬ 
back (§ 22, Rte. H), 22 
Chavornay. 8 
Cherasca, Val, 256 
Chexbres, 25 
Chiamuera, Val, 390, 418 
Chiareggio, cbalets'of, 409 


CON 

Chiarena Glacier, 430 
Chiasso, 335 
Chiavenria, 321 

Chiavenna to Roveredo (§ 33, Rte. E), 336 
Chiavenna, Andeer to, by the Aversthal (§ 35, 
Rte. L), 382 

Chiavenna to Nauders, by the Val Bregaglia 
and Engadine (§ 36, Rte. A), 385 
Chiesa, village of, 409 

Chiesa in Val Malenco, Pontresina to, by the 
Capiitschin and Scerscen Passes (§ 36, Rte. 
H), 410 

Chiesa to Poschiavo, by the Passo di Canciano 
(36, Rte. I), 411 
Chiggiogna, 267 
Chiosa, Val, 403 
Chironico, 309 
Choglias, Val, 363 
Churwalden, 366 
Ciamut, hamlet of, 218 
Cierfs, village of, 445 
Cinuschel, 391 
Cirques Jurassiques, 5 
Claro, village of, 268 
Cles, town of, 429 

Cles to Meran or Botzen (§ 37, Rte. I), 441 

Clozza, Val, 392 

Clusone, village of, 462 

Codera, Val, 321 

Cogolo, 437 

Coire, town of, 209 

Coire, Rorschach to, by railway (§ 28, Rte. C), 
234 

Coire to Bellinzona, by the Bernardino Pass 
(§ 31, Rte. A), 280 

Coire to Como, by the Spliigen Pass (§ 33, Rte. 
A), 319 

Coire to Samaden, by the Julier Pass (§ 35, Rte. 
A), 365 

Coire to Samaden, by the Albula Pass (§ 35, 
Rte. C),370 

Coire to Davos am Platz, by the Strela Pass 
(§ 35, Rte. E), 373 
Colico, village of, 322 

Colicoto Milan, by Lecco (§33, Rte. B),330 
Colico to Bormio, by the Val Tellina (§ 36, 
Rte. E), 400 

Colico, Introbhio to (§ 38, Rte. H), 459 
Collio, village of, 466 
Oollognasco, 314 

Cologne to Altdorf, by Basle, Olten, and Lu¬ 
cerne (§ 26, Rte. A), 147 
Comacina, Isola, 328 
Comano, baths of, 481 
Comballaz, 9 
Como district (§ 33), 318 
Como, Lake of, 322 
Como, town of, 329 

Como, Coire to, by the Spliigen Pass (§ 33, Rte. 
A), 319 

Como, Bellinzona to, by Lugano (§ 33, Rte. C), 
333 

Como, Laveno to, by Varese (§ 33, Rte. I), 343 

Como to Lecco, by Erba (§33, Rte. I), 345 

Comologno, 315 

Compatsch, hamlet of, 364 

Concise, 7 

Condino, 473 

t0 Edolo > b y v al Daone (§ 40, Rte. 

C), 4/8 

Constance, city of, 231 
Constance, Lake of, 233 
Couters, 367 





CON 


GENERAL INDEX 


507 


Conzei, Val df, 484 
Corenno, 330 
Cornara, Val, 218, 273 
Cornararhein torrent, 218 
Corno, Val, 273 
Cossonay, 8 

Costnatsch, chAlets of, 303 
Courgevaux, village of, 26 
Court, 29 

Craveggia, village of, 317 

- baths of. 315 

Cresciano, village of, 268 
Cresta, village of, 380 
Cresuz, 26 
Creux de Champs, 9 
Crispausa, hamlet of, 218 
Cristallina, Val, 216, 275 
Cristallo, Vedretta di, 433 
Crocetta, Lago della, 413 
Crodo, village of, 250 

- baths of, 250 

Cromerthal, the, 353 
Crot, 380 

Croves, village of, 253 
Cuccio torrent, 339 
Cumbels, village of, 296 
Curaglia, 216, 275 
Curciusa Glacier, 320 
Cursola, 317 


D ACHSEN, village of, 203, 204 
Dagmarsellen, 148 
Dala Glacier, 41 
Dala, valley of the, 41 
Dalfazza, 356 
Damma Glacier, 142 
Daone, Val, 473, 478 
Dauben See, the, 37 
Davos, valley of, 372 
Davos Dorfli, hamlet of, 373 
Davos am Platz, 373 

Davos am Platz, Coire to, bv the Strela Pass 
(§35, Rte. E), 373 

Davos am Platz to Siis, by the Fluela Pass 
(§ 35, Rte. F), 375 

Davos am Platz to Scanfs, by the Scaletta Pass 
(§ 35, Rte. G), 376 

Davos am Platz to Scanfs, by the Sertig Pass 
(§35, Rte. H). 378 
Davoser See, 373 
Dazio Grande (3,059'), 26 
Deborence, 14 
Delebio, 401, 458 
Delemont, village of, 29 
Dentro, Val di, 416 
Dervio, village of, 330 
Devera, river, 253 
Devero Alp, 253 
Devil’s Bridge, 263 
Diemtigen, village of, 51 
Dietfurt, 240 
Dietikon, 159 
Dimaro, village of, 429 
Dischma Thai, 376 
Dissentis, 215, 275 
- excursions from, 215 

Dissentis, Basle to, by Schaffhausen and Coire 
(§ 27, Rte. C), 202 

Dissentis to Andermatt, by the Oberalp Pass 
(§ 27, Rte. D), 217 

Dissentis to Amsteg (§ 27, Rte. E), 219 


ENG 

Dissentis to Stachelberg, by the Sand Grat 
(§27, Rte. F), 220 

Dissentis, or Flanz, to Stachelberg, by the Kis- 
ten Pass (§ 27, Rte. G). 222 
Dissentis to Bellinzona, by the Lukmanier Pass 
(§30, Rte. F), 274 

Dissentis to Airolo, by the Passo dell’ Uomo 
(§ 30, Rte. G), 278 
Distel Glacier, 104 
Diveglia Alp, 255 
Dizasco, village ot, 340 
Dolcino, Campo, village of, 321 
Dolcino, Campo, to Mesocco (§ 33, Rte. D), 336 

-by the Passo di Balniscio, 336 

-by the Passo Bardan, 336 

Dolcino, Campo, Andeer to, by the Aversthal 
(§35, Rte. M), 383 
Domaso, village of, 324 
Domene, baths of, 26 
Domleschgerthal, the, 281 
Dongio, 277 
Dongo, village of, 325 
Dorfli, Davos, hamlet of, 373 
Dosdd, Vedretta di, 416 
Dosdd, Val di, 416 
Drachenhohle, the, 133 
Drano, 338 

Drosde, Vedretta di, 416 
Drun torrent, 217 
Druogno, 317 
Drusenthal, the, 355, 360 
Duana Val, 382 
Ducanthal, the, 378 
Diidingen, or Goin, 25 
Dungel Glacier, 18, 49 
Dungelschuss cascade, 17 
Diirrenboden, 376 
Duvin, village of, 298 


E BNAT, 240 
Edolo, 460 

Edole, Condino to, by Val Daone (§ 40, Rte. C), 
478 

Edolo, Lovere to, by Val di Scalve (§ 39, Rte. 
D), 462 

Edolo to Sondrio, by the Aprica Pass (§ 29, Rte. 
E), 463 

Edolo, Pinzoloto, by Val Genova (§ 40, Rte. B) 
474 

Egeri, Lake of, 171 
Eggerstanden, 239 
Eggiwyl, 129 
Eginenthal, 83 
Eginenthal, village of, 247 
Eigen, village of, 182 
Eiger Glacier, 72 
Einsiedlen, 172 
Elgg, 231 

Elm, village of, 225, 226 

Elm, llanz to, in the Sernft Thai, by the Pa- 
nixer Pass (§27, Rte. H), 223 
Elm, Richenau to, by the Segnes Pass (§ 27, 
Rte. I), 224 

Elm to Stachelberg, by the Richetli Pass (§ 27, 
Rte. M), 229 
Emet, Val, 383 
Emmatten, village of, 177 
Emme river, 127 

-the Kleine, 128 

Kmmenthal, the, 127 
Ems, village of, 211, 280 
Engadine, the, 387 






508 


GENERAL INDEX, 


ENG 

Engadine, Paznaunthal to the, passes from the 
(§ 34, Rte. Hj, 360 
Engelberg, village of, 174 
Engelberg, Sarnen to (§ 25 . Rte. C), 133 
Engelberg, Meyringen to (§25, Rte. D), 134 
Engelberger Aa, the, 173 
Engelhdrner, the, 66 
Engi, 225, 228 
Engstlen Alp, 135 
Engstligenthal, 47 
Enneda, village of, 189 
Entlebuch, village of, 128 
Entlebuch, the, 128 
Erba, 345 

Erba, Bellaggio to, by Val Assina (§ 33, Rte. 
K), 344 

Erba, Piano d’, 345 
Erlenbach. 21 
Err, Val, 367 
Erstfelden, 175 
Erstfelderthal, 261 
Eschia, Val d\ 390 
Escholzmatt, village of, 127 
Esino, village of, 455 
Estavayer, 25 
Et-ivaz, valley of, 11 
Etzli Thai, 220 
Etzliboden, 220 


F AEDO, 451 

Fahlensee, 243 
Faido, 267 

Faido, Locarno to, by Val Verzasca (§ 32, 
Rte. B), 308 
Fain, Val del, 398, 412 
Faldumthal, 46 
Faller, Val, 368 
Fargorida, Val de, 475, 477 
Fargorida, Vedretta di, 477 
Farnbuhl, 128 

Fatschbach, fall of the, 178, 190 
Faulberg Cave, 88 
Fava, La (8,589'), 14 
Federia, Val, 418 
Fedoz, Val, 386, 389 
Fedoz, Vadred de, 386 
Feldkirch, 350 

Feldkirch to Maienfeld (§ 34, Rte. C), 354 
Fellithal, 262 
Felsberg, 211 
Ferden. hamlet of, 46 

Ferden, Baths of, Leuk to (§ 23, Rte. D), 46 

Fermuntthal, the, 352, 362 

Fermuntthal, Klein, 353 

Ferrera torrent, 214 

Ferrera, Ausser, 380 

Ferrerathal, the, 380 

Fettan, 392 

Fideris, village of, 356 

-baths of, 356 

Filisur, village of. 370 
Fimberthal, the, 353 

Finstermiinz, Ischgl to, by the Vignitz Pass, 
363 

Finstermtinz, Ischgl to, by the Zebles Pass, 363 

Finstermiinz, Mies to, by the Gribelle Joch, 364 

Fiumenero, 449 

Flawyl, 232 

Flatzbach river, 393 

Flendra, hamlet of, 11 

Fless, Val, 358 

Fliersch, 351 


GAR 

Flims, village of, 212, 224 
Flimser Fern, glacier of, 224 
Flimserstein, the, 212 
Flimserwald, the, 212 
Fluelen, 156 

Fluelen to Bellinzona, by the St. Gothard Pass 
(§ 30, Rte. A), 259 
Fliihli, oratory of, 132 
Flum torrent, 222 
Flums. 206, 229 
Fliimserthal, the, 206 
Folsogno, 316 
Fondo, village of, 441 
Fonds, Chaux de, town of, 7 
Fontana, Val, 402 
Foppiano, 250 
Foppolo, village of, 451 
Forest Cantons, district of the (§ 26), 146 
Formazza district (§ 29), 246 
Formazza, Val, 247, 249 

Formazza (Andermatten) to Airolo, by the 
Passo di San Giacomo (§ 29, Rte. B), 250 
Formazza (Andermatten), Viesch to, by the 
Albrun Pass and Lebendu (§29, Rte. C), 251 
Forno, Val, 430 
Forno, Vedretta di, 430. 

Foroglio, hamlet of, 312 

Fouly, village of, 13 

Fraele, Val, 443 

Franzanenshohe,423 

Frastenz, 350 

Frauenthor, the, 295 

Frauenkirch, 373 

Fribourg, town of, 24, 25 

Fribourg, Vevey to (§ 22, Rte. I), 23 

Friedrichshafen, 231 

Frisai Glacier, 222 

Frisal Thai, 222 

Frodolfo torrent, 425 

Fruthwald, hamlet of, 249 

Frutigen, village of, 34 

Fuldera, 445 

Fum, Val di, 459, 460, 472,478, 479 

Fum, Vedretta di, 479 

Fuorns, hamlet of, 215 

Furth, village of, 298 

Furva, Val, 425 

Fusine, 451 

Fusio, 310 


/TJ.ABIOL, Val, 475 

VA Gadmen, commune of, 137 

Gais, village of, 236, 238 

Gais, Rorschach to (§ 28, Rte. D), 235 

Galgenen, 183 

Gallarate. 308 

Gallo, Val del, 418 

Galthiir, village of, 353 

Galthiir to Ardetz, by the Futscholl Pass, 362 

Gamchi Glacier, 42 

Gamchi Liicke, the, 100 

Gamehiliicke, the, 98 

Gammerrhein torrent, 218 

Gammerthal, or Val Tiarms, 218 

Gampel, village of, 46 

Gamperthonthal, the, 351 

Gams, 241 

Gandino, village of, 449 
Gam yerthal, the, 355, 360 
Gannerathal, the, 361 
Gardone, 466 



GENERAI INDEX. 


509 


GAR 

Gardone in Val Trompia, Iseo to (§39, Rte. H), 

466 

G trgellenthal, the, 361 

Garlate, Lago di, 332 

Gasehurn to Klosters, by the Garneira Joch, 
361 

Gauerthal, the, 362 
Gauii Glacier, 123. 124 
Gavardina, Val, 484 
Gavia Glacier, 427 
Gavirate, 313 
Glei>holz, hamlet of, 66 
Gelmer See, 79 
Gelten Glacier, 17, 49 
Geltern alp, 17 
Gemini district, the (§ 23), 27 
Geneveys, Haut, 7 
Genova, Val di, 470, 474 
Gentelthal, 134 
Geren Glacier, 273 
Gersau, 155, 165 
Gertrud, S., village of, 439 
Gesch nen, village of, 263 
Geschenenthal, 143. 263 
Geschwand, Unter, 165 
Gersau to the Rigi, 165 
Gessenay, town of, 20 
Gestaad, 131 
Gestelen, Nieder, 46 
Ghebbo, hamlet of, 256 
Ghiacciato, Lago, 382 
Ghiandone, Serizzo, 405 
Ghirone, 294 
Giessbach waterfall, 61 
Giessen Glacier, 72 
Giornico, 267 
Giswyl, plain of, 132 
Giudicaria, district of, 472 
Giuf, Val, 217 
Glaris, 372 
^Glarus, town of, 188 

Glarus. Schwyz to, by the Pragel Pass (§26, 
Rte. K), 178 

Glarus, Lachen to, by the Waggi Thai (§ 26, 
Rte. N), 183 

Glarus to Ragatz.by thp Semfthal and Sardona 
Glacier (§ 27, Rte. K), 225 
Glarus to Sargans, by the Semfthal (§ 27. Rte. 
L), 228 

Glatt river, 204 

Glenner river, 293 

Gliems Glacier, 221 

Gliems, Val, 2il 

Gturns, 445 

Goldau, 165, 168 

Goldau to the Higi, 165 

Gomagoi, 424,438 

Gond, hamlet of, 431 

Gonten, village of, 242 

Gordola, 308 

Gottardo, S., 425 

Grafenort, hamlet of, 174 

Graggi, chAlet of, 144 

Gramser Ferner, or Zufrid Ferner, 439 

Grandson, battle-tield of, 7 

Grandvanx, 25 

Gravedona to Bellinzona (§ 33, Rte. F), 337 

Grassen Glacier, 133 

Greifensee, Lake of, 204 

Greifenstein, ruins of, 370 

Greina, Val, 294 

Grevo, 460 

Grialetsch Glacier, 376 


HEI 


Griante, village ot, 327 
Gribellethal, the, 353, 364 
Grimsel Hospice, 79 

Grimsel, Grindelwald to the (§ 24, Rte. K), 
112 


-by the Strahleck Pass, 113 

-by the Finsteraar Joch, 116 

-by the Lauteraar Joch, 117 

Grimsel, Meyringen to the, by the Gauii Pass 
(§24, Rte. N), 124 

Grimsel to the iEggischhorn (§24, Rte. O), 124 
—- by the Oberaar Joch, 125 

-by the Studer Joch, 126 

Grimsel, Miihlenstalden to the, by the Trift- 
gletscher Joch (§25, Rte. F), 139 
Gries Glacier, 248 
Grindelwald, village of, 68 
Grindelwald Glacier, Ober, 68 
-Unt^r, 68 

Grindelwald to the iEggis&hhorn (§ 24, Rte. I), 
106 

■-by the Jungfrau Joch, 106 

-by the Eiger Joch, 103 

-by the Mdnch Joch, 109 

-by the Viescher Joch, 112 * 

Grindelwald to the Grimsel (§ 24, Rte. K), 
112 

-by the Strahleck Pass, 113 

- by the Finsteraar Joch, 116 

—- by the Lauteraar Joch, 117 
Grindelwald Glacier, Ober, 117 
Grindelwald, Meyringen to, by the Bergli Joch 
(§ 24, Rte. M), 123 
Grion, 12, 13 
Grionne, valley of the, 12 
Griosch, 363 
Gromo, 419 
Gronda, Va', 21.3 
Grosina, Val, 403, 404 
Grosio, 404, 46 i 
Grab village, ‘236 
Grunhorn Glacier, 88 
Griisch, 355 
Griitli, the, 155 
Gruyeres, town of, 19 
Gsteig, village of, 16,18 
Guards, village of, 362, 391 
Guards, Pattenen in Montafun to, by the Fer- 
munt Pass (§ 34, Rte. G), 362 
Guggi Glacier, 72 
Guin, or Diidingen, 25 
Gurnigel, baths of,26 
Guttanen, village of, 78 

Guttannen, Stein Alp to, bv the Steinlimmi 
and FUrtwang Passes (§ 25, Rte. G), 142 


H aag, 235,241 

Haag, Weissbad to, by the SaxerLiicke, 
239 

Habkeren. village of, 60 
Habkeren, valley of, 128 
Habkerenthal, 60 
Habsburg, castle of, 158 
Hahnenmoos, 52 
Haldenstein, castle of, 209 
Handeck, the, 79 
Haslithal, the, 63 

-Ober, 78 

Hatzingen, village of, 190 
Heiden, 236 

Heiligen Kreuz, hamlet of, 255 
Heirichsbad, 234 




510 


HEL 


GENERAL INDEX, 


Helle Platte, 79 
Hergiswyl, village of, 132, 151 
Hergottswald, 152 
Herisau, village of, 234 
Herrenriiti, ch&lets of, 174 
Herzogenbuchsee, 31 
Hindelbank, 31 
Hinterrhein, village of, 284 
Hinterrhein to the source of the Rhine (§ 31, 
Rte. B), 286 

Hinterrhein, Ilanz to, by the Valserberg (§ 31, 
Rte. G), 300 

Hoch'tetten, village of, 127 
Hohenferner, 431, 4H8 
Hohle Gasse, the, 162 
Hohen-Rhatien, castle of, 281 
Hohenstollen. the, 132 
Hohentrins, 212 
Hohsand Glacier, 253 
Hdlle Chasm, 289 
Hongrin river, 11 
Horben, 129 
Horbis Thai, 174 
Horgen, 161, 186 
Hospenthal, 265 

Hospenthal to Obergestelen, by the Furka 
Pass (§ 30, Rte. C), 271 
Hospice of St. Gothard, 265 
Hospital all’ Acqua, 251 
Hiifi Glacier, 198, 221 
Hummelwald, 233 
Hundwyl, 241 


TBACH, 179 

Iberg, village of, 173 
Idro, Lake of, 473 
Iffigen, hamlet of, 49 
Ittigenthal, 48 
llanz, city of, 213 

Ilanz, or Dissentls, to Stachelberg, by the 
Kisten Pass (§ 27, Rte. G), 222 
Ilanz to Elm, in the Sernft Thai, by the 
Panizer Pass (§ 27, Rte. H). 223 
Ilanz to Olivone, by the Vrinthal (§ 31, Rte. 
E), 294 

Ilanz to Olivone, by the Zavareila Thai (§ 31, 
Rte. F), 298 

Ilanz to Hinterrhein, by the Valserberg (§31, 
Rte. G), 300 
IU'river, 350 

Ill, valley of the, to the Prasttigau, passes fr'.ir 
the (§34, Rte. F), 360 
Ilmenstein, hamlet of, 122 
Imagna, Val, 452 
Imfeld, hamlet of, 252 
Immensee, 162, 164 
Immensee to the Rigi, 164 
Incino, 346 
Inden,41 

Interlaken, town of, 59 

Interlaken and Meyringen, Thun to, or Rei- 
chenbach (§ 24, Rte. A), 58 

-by the Lake steamers, 58 

—— Thun to Brienz by carriage-road, 63 

-Thun to Brienz by footpath, 64 

Interlaken, Meyringen to, by Grindelwald and 
Lauterbrunnen (§ 24, Rte. B), 65 
Interlaken to Kandersteg (§ 24, Rte. E), 95 

-by carriage-road, 95 

-by the Saxetenthal, 95 

-by the Sansgrat, 95 j 


EAT 

Interlaken to Burgdorf, by the Emmenthal 
(§ 24, Rte. O), 128 
Intelvi, Val, 339 
Intra, village of, 307 

Intra, or Pallanza, to Domo d’Ossola, by Val 
Intrasca (§ 32, Rte. K), 317 
Intragna, village of, 315, 316 
Intragna, Val, 318 
Intrasca, Val, 317 

Introbbio, Varenna to (§ 38, Rte. F), 455 
Introbbio to Colico (§ 38, Rte. H), 457 
Ischgl, village of, 353 

Ischgl to Finstermunz, by the Zebles Pass, 

363 

Ischgl to Finstermunz, by the VignitzPass, 363 
Ischgl to Remus, by the Fimber Joch, 363 
Isella, 256 

Isella, Viesch to, by the Ritter Pass (§ 29, Rte. 

E) , 254 

Isella to Premia, by the Val Cherasca (§ 29, Rte. 

F) , 256 

Iseltwald, village of, 65 
Iselten, 176 

Isenfluh, village of, 76. 96 
Isemhai, village of, 176 
Isenthal, Klein. 176 
Iseo, Lake of, 460 
Iseo, 461 

Iseo to Gardone in Val Trompia (§39, Rte. 

H), 466 

Isola Comacina, 328 
Isolaccia, village of, 416 
Isone, 333 
Isorno river, 315 


J ACOBSBAD, 242 
Jaffischthal, 255 
Jagi Glacier, 93 
Jamthal, the, 353, 362 
Jamthaler Ferner, 362 
Jaun, or Jogne, river, 11 
Jaun, village of, 12 
Jenatz, village of, 356 
Jenisberg, village of, 372 
Jogne, or Jaun, river, 11 
Joux, Lac de, 7 
Juf, hamlet of, 381 
Jun'-frau Glacier, 88 
Jiingibrunnen, the, 135 


T 7 ALFEUSER THAL, 227 
Kanalthal, the, 299 
Kander river, 33 
Kander Glacier, 101 
Kandersteg, village of, 34 
Kandersteg, Thun to, by the Kien Thai (§ 23. 

Rte. B), 41 ’ 

Kandersteg to Turtman, or Visp, by the Lot- 
schen Pass (§ 23, Rte. C), 44 
Kandersteg to Lauenen, by Adelboden and An 
_der Lenk (§ 23, Rte. G), 51 
Kandersteg, Interlaken to (§ 24. Rte. E), 95 
Kandersteg, Lauterbrunnen to (§24, Rte. F),96 

-by the Seflnen Fuike, 96 

-by the Tschingel Pass, 97 

Kappel, 240 
Karstelenthal, 198 
Kaseren Alp, Ober, 242 
Kastris, 212 
Katzis, village of, 281 



KEH 


GENERAL INDEX. 


511 


Kehle Glacier, 

Kerns, village of, 132 
Kienholz, 6‘2 
Kien Thai, the, 42 
Kienthal, village of, 42, 96 
Kippel, Baths of, Leuk to (§ 23, Rte. D), 46 
Kippel, village of, 45, 46, 103 
Kirchbergerthal, 439 
Klon See, 179 
Klosterli, 165 
Klosters, commune of, 359 
Klosters to Lavin, by the Laviner Joch ($ 34, 
Rte. E), 360 

Klosters, St. Gallenkirch to, by the Schlappiner 
Joch, 361 

Klosters, Gaschurn to, by the Garneira Joch, 

361 

Klosters, Pattenen to, by the Sardasca Pass. 

362 ’ 
Klosters. Lenz to, by Davos (§ 35, Rte. D), 372 
Klosterthal, the, 351 

Klus, the cleft so called, 12 

Kouigsfelden, abbey of, 158 

Krauchthal, 228 

Kray Alp, 243 

Kreuzerberg, 189 

Kriegalp Thai, 255 

Kiiblis, village of, 65, 356 

Kiiblis, Schruns to, by the Gampadel Joch (?), 

360 

Kiiblis, Schruns to, by the Plasseggen Pass, 

361 

Kiihalpthal, the. 378 
Kuppelwiese, 439 
Kiissnacht, vMl ge of, 162, 163 
Kiissnachter See, 153 
Kiissnacht to the Rigi, 163 
Kyburg, castle of, 204 


L AAS, village of, 434 

Laas to Sulden, by the Laaserthal (§ 37, 
Rte. E), 434 
Laaseralm, 434 
Laaserthal, 434 
Laaserthat Ferner, 434 
Laax, 212 
Lachen, 187 

Lachen to Srhwyz or Glarus, by the Waggi 
Thai (§ -6, Rte. N), 183 
Laglio, 328 
Lai no, 340 
Lambro river, 344 
Lammeren Glacier, 52, 53 
Lana, Unter, 440 

- Ober, 440 

Landeck,351 

Landeck, Bregenz to, by Feldkirch and the 
Arlberg Pass (§ 34, Rte. A). 350 
Landeck, B udenz to, by Montafun and the 
Paznaunthal (§ 34, Rte. B), 352 
Lang Thai, 254 
Langnau, 127 
Langwits, village of, 374 
Landquart torrent, 208 
Landquart bridge, 355 
Landquart station, 355 
Lanzada, village of, 411 
Lareinthal, the, 353 
Laris, Vedretta di, 475 
Latsch, 431 

Latsch, Santa Catarina to, bv the Passo Ceve- 
dale (§ 37, Rte. C;, 430 


LIC 

Latte, Ffnme, 331 
Latterbach, 22 
Laubeck, gorge of, 20 
Lauenen, 17,52 

Lauenen, Kandersteg to, by Adelboden and 
An der Lenk (§ 23, Rte. F), 51 
Lauenen See, 17 
Lauffen, 29 

Lauffenburg, town of, 202 

Laupen, 24 

Lausanne, town of, 8 

Lausanne to Berne (§ 22, Rte. K), 24 

Lauter See, 218 

Lauterbrunnen, valley of, 75 

Lauterbrunnen, village of, 75 

Lauterbrunnen to Kandersteg (§24, Rte. F), 96 

— by the Sefinen Furke, 96 

-by the Tschinge! Pass, 97 

Lauterbrunnen to Turtman, by the Lotschen- 
thal (§ 24, Rte. G). 101 

Lauterbrunnen to the .Eggischhorn, bv the 
Ldtschen Liicke, or the Lawinen Thor'ff 24. 
Rte. H), 103 

-by the Petersgrat and Lotschen Liicke, 104 

-by the Lawinen Thor, 105 

Lavace torrent. 441 
Lavaz, Val, 293 
Laveno, 307, 343 

Laveno to Como, by Varese (§ 33, Rte. I), 343 
Laver, Val, 363 
Lavertezzo, village of, 308 
Lavin, 391 

Lavin, Klosters to, by the Laviner Joch (5 34, 
Rte. E), 360 
Lavirum, Val, 390, 418 
Lavizzara, Val, 311 
Lax, 83 

Lebendu lake, 254 
Lecherette, 11 
Lecco, town of, 332 
Lecco, Lago di, 331 

Lecco, Como to, by Elba (§ 33, Rte. I), 345 
Lecco to Bellano, by Val Sassina (§ 33, Rte. E), 
453 

Ledro, Lake of, 483 
Ledro, Val di, 483 
Ledro, Pieve di, 483 

Ledro, Pieve di, to Tione (§ 40, Rte. F), 484 
Legno, Ponte di, to Santa Catarina, by the 
Gavia Pass (§ 39, Rte. F), 463 
Lei, Val di, 382, 383 
Leissingen, village of, 63, 95 
Lenk, An der, 48 

Lenk, An der, to the Baths of Leuk (§ 23, 
Rte. G), 53 
Lenno, village of, 328 
Lenta Glacier, 300 

Lenz to Klosters, by Davos (§ 25, Rte. D), 372 

Lenz, village of, 366 

Lepontine Alps, 245 

I esina, Val, 401 

Leuenfall, the, 237 

Leuk, or Loueche, 41 

Leuk, Baths of, 39 

Leuk, Baths of, Paris to the, by Basle and 
Thun (§ 23, Rte. A), 28 

Leuk, Baths of, to Ferden or Kippel (§ 23, 
Rte. D), 46 

Leuk, Baths of, to An der Lenk (§23, Rte. G), 

52 

Leventina, Val. 266 
Lichtensteig, 233 
Lichtenstein,castle of, 20 




512 


GENERAL INDEX 


LIC 

Lichtenstein, principality of, 354 
I.iesth 1. 30 
Limmern Alp, 222 
Limmern river, 193 
Limmernbach torrent, 222 
Limmerntobol. the, 192 
I.inththsrl, village of, 190 
Lioson, Lake of, 9 
Liro torrent, 321. 337 
Lischanna, Vadret, 392 
Lisighaus. hamlet of, 240 
L vigno, Val. 416. 418 
Livrio, Val del, 401, 451 
Lizerne river. 14 
Locarno district (§ 32), 303 
Locarno, town of, 305 

Locarno to Faido, by Val Verzasca (§ 32, 
Rte. B), 30s 

Locarno to Airolo, by the Val Lavizzara (§ 32, 
Rte. C), 309 

Locarno to Airolo, by Val Bavona (§ 32, 
Rte. D), 311 

Locarno to Andermatten in Val Formazza 
(§ 32, Rte. E), 314 

Locarno to Dorao d’Ossola, by Val Onserone 
(§32, Rte. G), 315 

Locarno to Domo d’Ossola, by Val Vigezzo 
(§ 32, Rte. H), 316 

Locarno to Premia, by Val Rovana (§ 32, 
Rte. F), 315 
Locle, village of, 7 
Lodrone, 473 

Lodrone. Breno to, by the Croce Domini Pass 
(§39, Rte. G), 465 

Lodrone, Brescia to, by Val Trompia (§ 39, 
Rte. 1). 166 

Lodrone to 5(iva, by Val Ampola and the Lake 
of Ledio (§40, Rte. E), 482 
Lohn, village of, 2*3 
Lombach torrent, 60 
Lombard Alps. 447. 448 
Lombardo, Mezzo, 429 
Lontsch torrent, cascades of the, 181 
Lorina torrent. 277 
Lorina, Val, 485 
Lostallo, 287 
Lotschen Glacier, 104 
Lotschentha*, the, 103 
Lovere. village of, 462 

Lovere to Edolo, by Val di Scalve (§ 39, 
Rte. D), 462 
Lowetz, 165, 169 
Lowerz to the Rigi, 165 
Lu, village of, 445 
Lucerne, town of, 132, 149 
Lucerne, Berne to, by the Entlebuch (§ 24. Rte 
P\ 127 

Lucerne, Brienz or Meyringen to, by the Briinig 
(§ 25, Rte. A), 130 

Lucerne, Basle to, by Zurich (§ 26, Rte. B), 157 
Lucerne to Schwyz and Brunnen (§26, Rte. C), 
168 

Lucerne, Lake of, 153 
Lucendro, Lago di, 265 
Luchsingen, 1*9 
Lugano, town of, 334 
Lugnetzthal, the, 295 
Lumo, village of, 307, 337 
Luino to Menaggio, by Lugano (§ 33, Rte. G), 
337 

Lumbrein, village of, 296 
Lumino, */87 
Liiner See, the, 351 


MAT 

Liiner See to Seewis, 360 
Lungern, village of, 130 
Lungern, Lake of, 130 
Lutschine, Sch >> arze, 71 
Liitschine. Weisse, 76 
Luzein, village of. 356 
Luzienstieg, fortress of, 354 


M ADATSCHFERNER. 423 
Maderanerthal, 198, 269 
Madrano, village of, z78 
Madonna del Monte, La, at Varese, 343 
Madre, Val, 401 
Madriserthal, the, 383 
Madritschtbal, 436 
Madulein, village of, 390 
Magadino, 304 
Maggia. village of, 309 
Maggia, Val, 309 
Maggiore, Lago, 306 
Magreglio, 344 
Maien, village of, 138 
Maienbach, torrent of the. 138 
Maienfeld, town of, 208. 355 
Maienfeld, Feldkirch to (§ 34, Rte. C), 354 
Maienfeld to Stis, by the Praettigau and the 
Vereina Pass (§ 34, Rte. D), 355 
Maienthal, the, 138 
Mala, Via, the, 282 
Maladers, village of, 374 
Malans, village of, 208, 355 
Maid, village of, 429 

Male to Trafoi, by the Suldenthal (§ 37, Rte. 
F), 435 

Maid to St. Pankraz in the Ultenthal (§ 37, 
Rte H), 429 

Maid in Val di Sole to Brescia, by the Tonale 
Pass and Val Camonica (§ 39, Rte. A), 449 
Male to Said on the Lake of Garda, by Val 
Rendena and the Lake of ldro ^§ 4u, Rte. A4, 
460 

Malenco, Val, 402. 409 
Malero torrent, 402 
Malgrate, 346 
Malleray, 30 
Mals, 424, 445 

Mals, Boi mio to (§ 37, Rte. A), 420 
Mals, Zernetz to. by the Ol'en Pass and Val 
Mustair (§ 37, Rte. L 1.444 
Mals, Schuls to, by Val Scarla (§ 37, Rte M), 445 
Mals, Remiis to, by Val d’Uiua (§ 37, Rte. N 
446 

Malvagli.i, Val, 277 
Malvaglia, village of, 277 
Mandello, village of. 331 
Mandron hut, 475, 477 
Mare, Val della. 428, i37 
Margno, village of, 457 
Maria, village of, 387 
Maria Schmelz. 431 
Marjelen See. 86 
Marmorera, village of, 368 
Marschlins, towers of, 208 
Marozzo, Val. 382 
Martinet, Glacier de, 13 
Martinshruck, 393 
Martinsloch, the 224 
Marza, Val, 482 
Masino, Val, 405 
Masino, Bagni del, 406 
Massa river, 84 

Matarotto, Vedretta di, 475,477 



GENERAL INDEX 


513 


MAT 

Mathon. village of, 238 
Matt, 226, 228 
Matten, hamlet of, 48 
Mattithal, 255 
Maurone, Sasso, 404 
Mayenwand, 82 
Mazza, Val, 464 
Mazzo, 403 
Mech See, 132 
Medelser Glacier, 215, 275 
Medelserthal, the, 275 
Meglis Alp, 238 
Meilen, village of, 186 
Melano, village of, 342 
Melch Thai, the, 132 
Melchthal, village of, 132 
Meledro river, 429 
Melezza river, 305, 316 
Melide, 335 
Mella river, 466 
Mels, 206, 228 
Menaggio, 325 

Menaggio, Luino to, by Lugano (§ 33, Rte. G), 
337 

Mendrisio, village of, 335 
Mera, Val, 415 

Meran, Rabbi to, by the Ultenthal (§ 37, Rte. 
G), 439 

Meran, Cles to (§ 37, Rte. I), 441 
Merlingen, 64 
Merzenthal, the, 247 
Mesocco, Val, 286 
Mesocco, village of, 286 

Mesocco, Campo Dolcino to (§ 33, Rte. D), 336 
— by the Passo di Balniscio, 336 

-by the Passo Bardan, 336 

Meyerhof, hamlet of, 213 
Meyringen, village of, 63 
Meyringen, Thun to (§ 24, Rte. A). 58 
Meyringen to Interlaken, by Grindelwald and 
Lauterbrunnen (§ 24, Rte. B), 65 
Mevringen to Briegg, by the Grimsel (§ 24, 
Rte. C), 77 

Meyringen, Rosenlaui to, by the Urbachthal 
and Weitsattel (§ 24, Rte. L), 121 
Mevringen to Grindelwald, by the Bergli Joch 
.§ 24, Rte. M), 123 

Mevringen to the Grimsel, by the Gauli Pass 
(§ 24, Rte. N), 124 

Meyringen to Lucerne, by the Briinig (§ 25, 
Rte. A), 130 

Meyringen to Stanzstad, by the Melch Thai 
(§ 25, Rte. B), 132 

Meyringen to Engelberg (§ 25, Rte. D), 134 
M -yringen to Wasen, by the Susten Pass (§ 25, 
Rte. E), 137 
Mezzo Lombardo, 429 

-Tedesco, 430 

Mezzola. Lago di, 321 

Mies to Finstermiinz, by the Gribelle Joch, 364 
Milan, city of, 333 

Milan, Colico to, by Lecco (§ 33, Rte. B), 330 

Minor, Val, 413 

Mitlodi, 189 

Mitterbad, 440 

Moesola, Lago di, 285 

Moffette, the, 392 

Molins, 367 

Molkenkur, 170, 231 

Mollis, village of, 188 

Moltrasio, 329 

Molveno, Lake of, 486 *'■ 

Molveno, village of, 487 

TAUT II. L 


NAM 

Mompe Models, village of, 275 

Mondadizia, 404 

Montafun, valley of, 352 

Montagna, vineyards of, 402 

Montbovon, 20 

Monte, Val del, 428 

Montorfano, Lake of, 345 

Montreux, 8 

Monza, 332 

Morat, town of, 26 

Moiat, Lake of, or Murton See, 26 

Morbegno, 401 

Morbegno to the Val Bregaglia, by Val Masino 
(§ 36, Rte. F), 405 

Morbegno, Bergamo to, by the Passo di San 
Marco (§38, Rte. C), 453 
Morbegno, Piazza to, by Val Stabina (§ 38. 
Rte. D), 452 

Morbegno to Bellano, by Val Varrone (§ 38, 
Rte. G), 456 
Morge river, 15 
Morignone Serra di, 404 
Morobbia, Val, 337 
Murte, Glacier de la Plaine, 47, 56 
Morter, 431 

Morteratsch Glacier, 395 
Morteys, 11 
Morze, Glacier de, 18 
Mosses, hamlet of, 11 
Motiers, 5 
Mouchard, 4 
Moudon, town of, 25 
Moutiers, Val, or Miinsterthal, 29 
Moutiers Grandval,29 
Muccia Glacier, 285 
Muggia, Val, 342 
Muggio, village of, 342 
Mugliz, glen of, 371 
Muhlestalden, village of, 137 
Miihlenstalden to the Grimsel, by the Trift- 
gletscher Joch (§25, Rte. F), 139 
Muhlethal, village of, 137 
MUhlethal, the, 225 
Miihlinen, 34 
Miillhorn, 205 

Munster, village of (§ 24, Rte. C), 82 

Munster, village of (§ 37, Rte. II, 445 

Miinsterthal, or Val Moutiers (§23, Rte. A), 29 

Miinsterthal (§ 24, Rte. C), 83 

Miinsterthal, or Val Mustair (§ 37, Rte. L), 445 

Muotta river, 179 

Muotta, village of, 179 

Muotta to Altdorf (§ 26, Rte. L), 181 

-by the Kinzig Kulm, 181 

-by the Riemenstaldenthal, 182 

Muotta to Stachelberg, by the Bisithal (§ 26, 
Rte, M), 182 
Muottathal, the, 179 
Murg, 205 

Miirren, hamlet of, 76 

Murten See, or Lake of Morat, 26 

Musso, castle of, 323 

Mustair, V, 442, 445 

Mutten Glacier, 271 

Mutten See, 222 

Muttenthal, the, 271 


"VT AFELS, village of, 188 
a-v Nalps, chalets of,, 217 
Nalps, Bolkata de, 217 
Nalpser Thai, 217 
Nambino, Val, 470 




514 


NAM 


GENERAL INDEX. 


PAR 


Nambrone, Val, 471 
Narulro, Val. 367 
Narcane, V d di. 476 
Narcane, Vedretta di, 476 
Narcanello, the, 476 
Nardis, 458 
Nardis, Alp of, 471 
Nardis, Vedretta Pi, 471 
Narrenbach, 51 
Narret, Lago di, 311 
Naters, 84 
Nauders, 303 

Nauders, Chiavenna to, by the Val Bregaglia 
and Engadine (§ 36, Rte. A), 385 
Neinerthal, the, 439 
Nellenbalm, the, 71 
Nenzing, 351 

Nenzing to Seewis, bv the Grosse Furka, 360 
Nenzing to Seewis, by the Kleine Furka, 360 
Nero, Lago, 313, 413 
Nesselthal, village >f, 137 
Nesslau, village of. 240 

Nesslau to St. Gall, by Urnasch (§ 28, Rte. H), 
241 

Nesslau to Weissbad (§ 28, Rte. I), 242 

Nesslau to Wesen (§ 28, Rte. K), 242 

Nesso, 326 

Nest Glacier, 103 

Netsiall. village of, 188, 189 

Neuchatel. town of. 6 

Neuchatel, Lake of, 6 

Neueneck, 24 

Neuf, Pont, 15 

Neuhaus, village of, 58 

Neukirch, village of, 302 

Nicolaus, St., 439 

Nicolo, S , village of, 425 

Nidau, 30 

Nieder See, 188 

Niederbach, the, 225 

Niederwald, 83 

Nidwalden, 133 

Noiraigue, 5 

Nolla torrent, 281 

Non, Val di, or Nonsberg, 429 

Nos torrent, 429 

Nossa, Ponte di, 449 

Nufenen, hamlet of, 284 

Niiziders, 351 


O BER SEE, 18« 

Oberaar Glacier, 125 
Oberalp See, 218 
Obergestelen, village of, 83. 247 
Obergestelen to Domo d’Ossola, by the Gries 
Pass (§ 29, Rte A), 247 

Obergestelen, Hospenthal to, by the Furka Pass 
(§ 30, Rte. C), 271 

Obergestelen to Airolo, by the Nufenen Pass 
(§ 30, Rte. D), 273 
Oberhalbstein, 367 
Oberhofen, village of, 64 
Oberhorn See, 98 
Oberland Tariff, the, 54, 57 
Oberland. See Bernese Oberlaai 
Oberried, 235 
Obersaxen, 213 
Oberscho'nenbach, 179. 

Oberstaffelhach, the, Ifl 
Obervatz, village of. 369 
Oberwald, 82 
Ochsentbal, the, 3G£ 




Oeschinen See, 43’ 

Oex, Chateau d’, 20 
Oex, Chateau d’, town of, 11 
Oex, Chateau d’, Ormond Dessus to (5 22, Rte. 
B), 11 

Ofen Wirtzhaus, the, 444 
Oggebbio, 307 
Oglio river, 460 
Olgia, village of, 316 
Olginate, 332 
Olginate, Lago di, 332 
Olgisca, village of, 330 
Olivone, 277, 294 

Olivone, Trons to, bv the Greina Pass (§ 31, 
Rte. D), 292 

Olivone, Ilanz to, by the Vrinthal (5 31, Rte. 
E), 294 

Olivone, Ilanz to, by the Zavareila Thai (§ 31, 
Rte. F), 298 
Olmo, village of, 451 
Olten, 31 

Onserone, Val, 315 
Orasso, 317 

Ormond Dessus, or Plan des lies, 9 
O' mond Dessus, Paris to, by Neuchatel and 
Lausanne (§ 22, Rte. A), 4 
Ormond Dessus to Chateau d’Oex and Bulle 
(§ 22, Rte. B), 11 


Ormond Dessus to Bex (§ 22, Rte. C), 12 
Ormond Dessus. Saanen to (§ 22, Rte. F) 18 
Ormonds, Val des, 9 
Orsi, Val dt-gli, 427 
Orso, Buca dell’, 328 
Orteler district (§ 37), 419 
Orteler Glacier, 425 
Osogna. village of. 268 
Osso, village of. 253 
Ossola, Domo d’, 250—Val d\ 247 
Ossola, Domo d\ Obergestelen to, by the Gries 
Pass (§ 29. Rte. A), 247 

Ossola. Domo d\ Locarno to, by Val Onserone 
(§32, Rte. G), 315 

Ossola, Domo d’, Locarno to, by Val Vigezzo 
(§ 32, Rte. H), 316 

Ossola, Domo d’, Canobbio to, by Val Canob- 
bina (§ 32, Rte. I), 317 

Ossola, Domo d’, Pallanza or Intra to, by Val 
Intrasca (§ 32, Rte. K), 317 
Osola, Val d’, 308 
Osteno, 340 
Ouchy, 8 


P AGNONE, village of, 457 
Palazzolo, village of, 461 
Pali Dulca lake, 219 
Pallanza, village of, 307 

Pallanza, or Intra, to Domo d’Ossola bT Val 
Intrasca (§ 32, Rte. K), 317 ’ 3 

Pallobbia, Val, 460 
Palii Glacier, 398 
Pancraz, St., village of, 440 
Pancraz, St., in the Unterthal, Maid to (§37 
Rte. H), 441 w ’ 

P.mix, hamlet of, 223 
Pantenbriieke, the, 192 
Paradies, 288 

Paris to Ormond Dessus, by Neuchatel and 
Lausanne (§ 22, Rte. A), 4 

Pd (§‘43° Rte l A) h 28 f Lt>Uk ’ bj Basle aml Thu “ 
Parpan, village of, 366 
P.crtuaunthal, 361 



GENERAL INDEX 


PAT 

Pattenen, village of, 352 

Pa'tenen to Klosters, by the Sardasca Pass (?), 
362 " 

Pattenen in Montafun to Guarda, by the Fer- 
munt Pass (§ 34, Rte. G), 362 
Payerne, town of, 25' 

Paznaun,353 
Paznaunthal, the, 353 

Paznaunthal to the Engadine, passes from 
the (§ 34, Rte. Hi, 362 
Pazzola, Val, or V. Terms, 217 
Peccia, village of, 310 
Peccia, Val, 314 
Pedenosso, village of, 443 
Pederthal, 434 
Peiden, baths of, 296 
Peilerthal, the, 300 
Peist, village of, 374 
Pejo, 428 
Pejo, Val di, 428 
Pelizzano, village of, 428 
Pelugo, 471 
Pentirone, Val, 277 
Perledo, 455 
Pers, Vadret, 395 
Pescaizo, 460 
Pesciora, Glacier of, 273 
Peterzell, village of, 233 
Pezzo, village of, 463 
Platers, village of, 208 
Platers, hot springs of, 206 
Pfafferthal, Ausser, 103 

- Inner, 103 

Pfahlbauten, 413 
Pianazzo, village of, 320 

Piazza to Morbegno, by Val Stabina (§38, 
Rte. D), 452 
Pierre Pertuis, the, 30 
Pieve di Ledro, 467, 483 
Pieve di Ledro to Tione (§ 40, Rte. F), 484 
Pintga, Val, 221 
Pinzolo, village of, 470 

Pinzolo to Edolo, by Val Genova (§ 40, Rte. B), 
474 

Pinzolo to Riva, by the Bocca di Brenta and 
Molveno (§ 40, Rte. H), 486 
Piombo, Buca del. 346 
Piona, Lago di, 330 
Piora, Val, 278 
Pischa Glacier, 357 
Piscidella, village of, 413 
Pitasch, village of, 298 
Piuro, site of the town of, 385 
Plafna, Val, 392 
Plans, Les, 13 
Platta, 216 
Platta, 275 
Plattamala, 414 
Plattas Alp, 216 
Platten, hamlet of, 103, 105 
Plessur torrent, 210, 374 
Pieun Thai, the, 212 
Plima torrent, 4 il 
Pliniana, Villa, 329 
Pions, 2u6 

Polaveno, village of, 466 

Pommat, village of, 249 

Ponal torrent, 483 

Pont, Le, 7 

Pontarlier, town of, 4 

Ponte, village of, 371, 390 

Ponte, Bormio to, by the Casana Pass, 418 

Ponte, Al, chalets, of, 253 


Old 

RAT 

Ponte, Capo di, 450 
Pontresina, village of, 393 
Pontresina, Samaden to (§ 36, Rte. B), 393 
Pontresina, excursions from, 394, 397 
Pontresina to Chiesa in Val Malenco. by the 
Caputschin and Scerscen Passes (§ 3( ! , Rte. 
H), 410 

Pontresina to Bormio (§ 36, Rte. L), 41 
Poras Glacier. 217 
Porcellizza, Val, 406 
Porchabella, Vadred da, Glacier of, 371 
Porlezza, village of, 338 

Porlezza, Aregno to, by the Val Intelvi {§ 33, 
Rte. H), 339 

Poschiavo, village of, 413 

Poschiavo, Chiesa to, by the Passo di Canciano 
(§ 36, Rte. I), 411 
Poschiavo, Lago di, 414 
Prad, village of, 424 

Prad, Santa Catarina to (§37, Rte. D), 432 
Praettigau district (§ 34). 349 
Prajttigau, passes from the valley of the 111 to 
the (§ 34, Rte. F), 360 
Prato, village of, 310 
Prato, Val di, 310 
Premad io, 416 
Premana, village of, 457 
Premia, village of, 250, 254 
Premia, Viesch to, by the Binnenthal (§ 29, 
Rte. D\ 253 

Premia. Iseila to, by the Val Cherasca (§ 29, 
Rte. F), 256 

Premia, Locarno to, by Val Rovana (§ 32, Rte. 
F), 315 

Prese, Le, 414 
Preseglie, 467 
Prestine, 452, 465 
Promontogno, 386 
Proves, village of, 441 
Prunas, Val, 390 
Puntaiglas Glacier, 214 
Pusiano, Lago di, 346 


Q UARTEN, 205 

Q linten. village of, 205, 244 
Quinto, village of, 266 


B ABB I, village of, 435 

Rabbi to Meran, by the IJltentnal (§ 37, 
Rte. G), 439 
Rabbiosa torrent,-321 
Rabiosa torrent (§ 27, Rte. C), 208 
Rabiosa torrent (§35, Rte. A), 366 
Rabiusa torrent, 302 
Ragatz, 206 

Ragatz, Glarusto,by the Sernfthaland Sardona 
Glacier (§ 27, Rte. K), 225 
Ragatz, Richenau to, by the Kunkels Pass (§27, 
Rte. N), 2^9 
Rallingen, 64 
Ranft, the, 131, 132 
Randen, Hoh, 203 
Ranzo, village of, 488 
Rappen Glacier, 252 
Rappenthal, the, 252 
Rapperschwyl, town of, 173, 187, 204 
Rapperschwyl, Scbwyz to, by Einsiedlen (§ 26, 
Rte. E), 172 
Raron,45 
Ratevel, 23 



516 


GENERAL INDEX. 


RAU 

Rauraoorum, Augusta, 29 
R'azli Glacier, 4^ 

Realp, hamlet of, 271 
Reckingen, 83 
Redorda, Val, 306 
Reichenau, 211 

Reichenau to Elm, by the Segues Pass (§ 27, 
Rte. I), 224 

Reichenau to Ragatz, by the Kunkels Pass (§ 27, 
Rte. N), 229 

Reichenau to Spliigen,by Savien and the Loch- 
liberg Pass (§ 31, Rte. H), 301 
Reich enbach, 34 

Reichenbach, Thun to (§ 24, Rte. A), 58 
Reichenbach, 63 
Reichenburg, 187 
Reid enbach, 21 
Reitbad, 241 
Rellsthal, the, 352 
Remits, village of, 363, 393 
Remus, Ischgl to, by the Fimber Joch, 363 
Remits to Mals, by Val d’Uina (§ 37, Rte. N), 
446 

Rendena, Val, 470, Pieve di Val, 472 

Ren feu Glacier, 122 

Renfer Joch, 125 

Rettau, Lake of, 18 

Rezzo, Val di, 404 

Rhtetian Alps, 347 

Rhazuns, castle of, 281 

Rhein, Vorder, valley of the, 211 

Rhein, the Averser, 379 

Rhein, the Medelser, 275 

Rheinau, monastery of, 203 

Rhei neck, 234 

Rheinwald, ^84 

Rheinwald Glacier, 288 

Rhine, Falls of the, 202 

Rhine, valley of the, Weissbad to the (§ 28, 
Rte. F), 239 

Rhine, Hinterrhein to the source of the (§ 31, 
Rte. B), 287 
Rhone Glacier, 82 
Richisau, hamlet of, 179 
Richterschwvl, village of, 172, 186 
Richterschwvl, Schwyz to, by Rothenthurm 
(§ 26, Rte. D), 171 
R-ieder Alp, the, 93 
Riedern. village of, 181 
Riein, 298 

Riemenstalden, village of, 181 
Rjemenstadenthal, the, 181 
Riere torrent, 50 
Ringgenberg, the, 60 
Ritom, Lago di, 278 
Riva, 482 

Riva, on the Lake of Garda, Tione to <•$ 40, 
Rte. D), 481 

Riva, Lodrone to, by Val Ampola and the Lake 
of Ledro (§ 4>0, Rte. E), 482 
Riva, Pinzelo to, by the Bocca di Brenta and 
Molveno (§ 40, Rte. H), 486 
Riviera, 268 
Roasco torrent, 403 
Rochetta, 429 
Rocchetta, Val, 475 
Rofla, defile ©f, 284 
Romedio, Val, 442 
Romond, 25 

Rossgella, village of, 280 
Rorschach, 233 

Rorschach, Winterthur to, by railway (§ 28, 
Rte, A), 231 


SAI 

Rorschach to Sargans and Coire, by railway 
(§ 28, Rte. C), 234 

Rorschach to Trotren, Gais, Appenzell, and 
Weissbad (§ 28, Rte. D), 235 
Rosa, La, 404 HI S'. 

Rosanna river, 351 

Roseg Glacier, excursion from Pontresina to, 
396 

Rosenlaui Glacier, 66,122_baths of, 66 

Rosenlaui to Meyringen, by the Urbachthal and 
Weitsattel (§ 24, Rte. L), 121, 

Rosimferner, 434 
Rosimthal, 434, 437 
Rossa, 292 
Rossa, Acqua, 279 
Rossa, Vedretta, 427 
Rossfall, the, 241 
Rossinieres, village of, 20 
Rothbach Fall, 239 
Rdthebach, the, 193, 236 
Rothenthurm, 171 
Rothe Kumm Glacier, 53 
Rothe Thai, 17 
Rothgratli, the, 176 
Rothsattel, 127 
Rothstock Giacier, 1761 
Roththal, the, 105 

Rougemont, or Rothberg, village of, 20 
Rovana river, 310, Val, 314,315 
Roveredo, village of, 287 
Roveredo, Chiavennato (§33, Rte. E), 326 
Roveredo, San Bernardino to, by Val Calanca 
(§31, Rte. C), 292 
Rovio, village of, 3 2 
Ruaras, village of, 217 
Rubi Alp, 222 
Kiibshausen, 175 

Rufredo. Val, 442, village of, 442 

Rugen, Klein, 59 

Ruis, village of, 213 

Ruppleten, 198 

Russein Thaler, 220 

Bussein, Val, 2z0 

Ruti, 235 

Riiti, Weissbad to the, by the Kamor, 239 


S AANEN, town of. 16, 20 

Saanen, Sion to (§ 22, Rte. E), 15 
Saanen by Sanetsch Pass, 15 

- by the Gelten Pass, 16 

Saanen to Ormond Dessus (§ 22, Rte. F), 18 

- by the Lake of Arnen, 18 

- by Gsteig and tiie Col de Pillon, 18 

- by I auenen and the Chrinnen Pass, 18 

S.ibbia, Val, 461 

Sachseln, village of, 131 

Sagliains, A r al, 357 

St. Anton, 351 

St. Antonierthal, the, 360 

St. Christoph, inn and church of, 351 

St. Denis, Chatel, 19 

St. Gall, town of, 232 

St. Gall, Uznach to (§ 28, Rte. B), 233 

St Gall to Altstadten (§ 28, Rte. E), 238 

-by Trogan. 233 

-by Gais, 238 

St. Gail, Nesslau to, by Urnasch (§ 28, Rte. II). 

241 ’ 

St, Gallenkirch, 352 

St. GallenHrch to Klosters, by the Schlappinei 
Joch, 361 




GENERAL INDEX 


SCH 


5 i 7 


SAI 

St. Gallenkirch to Kiiblis, by the St. Antonier 
Joch, 361 

St. Gothard district (§ 30), 258 
St. Johann, Alt, 240 
St. Margarethen, 234 
St. Moritz, Baths of, 388 

St. Moritz, Bevers to, by Val Bever (5 36, Rte. 
C), 398 

St. Moritzer See, 3 Q 8 

St. Pankraz. village of, 440, 441 

St. Peter, 299, 300 

Sainte, Val, 26 

Salez, 235 

Salins, town of, 4 

Salo, 474 

Sal5 on the Lake of Garda, Maid to, by Val 
Rendena and the Lake of Idro (§40, Rte. A), 
469 

Salt, mineral spring of, 431 
Salux, village of, 367 
Sam^den, village of, 389 

Sam&den, Coire to, by the Julier Pass (§ 35, 
Rte. A), 365 

Samaden, Coire to, by the Albula Pass (§ 35, 
Rte. C), 370 

Samaden to Pontresina (§ 36, Rte. B), 393 
Samaden Tirano, by the Bernina Pass (§ 36, 
Rte. K), 412 
Sambuco, Val, 311 
Samina Thai, 350 

Saminathal to Seewis, pass from, 350 
Samnaunthal. the, 364 
Sampnoir, Val, 364, 393 
Samtisersee, the, 243 
San Bernardino, village of, 284, 285 
San Bernardino to Roveredo, by Val Calanca 
(§ 31, Rte. C). 292 

San Carlo, hamlet of (§ 32, Rte. D), 312 

San Carlo, (§ 36, Rte. K), 413 

San Colombano, village of, 466 

San Giacomo, Val di, 321 

San Pellegrino, 452 

San Valentino, Val di, 472 

Sand Alp, Ober, 193 

- Unter, 193 

Sandbach,the, 192 
Sand Glacier, 195 
Sanfleuron chalets, 15 
Sanfleuron Glacier, 15 
Sanguinera, Val, 465 

Santa Catarina to Latsch, by the Passo Ceve- 
da!e (§ 37, Rte. C), 430 
Santa Catarina to Prad (§ 37, Rte. D), 432 
Santa Catarina, Ponte di Legno to, by the Gavia 
Pass (§ 39, Rte. F), 463 
Santa Domenica, 292 
Santa Maria, village of, 442, 445 
Santa Maria, hospice of, 276 
Santa Maria, Bormio to (§ 37, Rte. K), 442 
Santa Maria Maggiore, 317 
Saoseo, Lake of, 416 
Sarche, Le, village of, 481 
Sargans, village of, 235 

Sargans, Glarus to, by the Sernfthal (§ 27, Rte. 
L), 228 

Sargans and Coire, Rorschach to, by railway 
(§ 28, Rte. C), 234 

Sargans, Wyl to, by the Toggenburg (§ 28, Rte. 
G), 240 

Sarnen, Lake of, 131 
Sarnen, 131 

Sarnen to Engelberg (§ 25, Rte. C), 133 
Sarnico, vllage of, 463 


Sassella, 401 
Sassina Val, 443 

Sasso, La Madonna del, convent and sanctuary 
of, 305 

Savien Platz, village of, 302 
Savierthal, 301 
Saviore, Val, 460 
Savogno, village of, 383 
Sax, village of, 240 
Saxer Liicke, 239 
Saxeten, village of, 95 
Saxetenthal, the, 95 
Scala, Lago della, 415 
Scale, La, 443 
Scalve, Val di, 462 
Scanfs, 418 
Scanfs, village of, 390 

Scanfs, Davos am Platz to, by the Scaletta Pass 
(§ 35, Rte. G). 376 

Scanfs, Davos am Platz to, by the Sertig Pass 
(§35, Rte. H), 378 

Scanfs, Bormio to, by the Casana Pass, 418 
Scarl, village of, 446 
Scarla, Val, 392, 445 
Schachen,128 

Schiichen, Unter, village of, 177 
Schachenthal, the, 177 
Schaddorf, 261 
Schafloch cavern, 64 
Schaffhausen, town of, 203 
Schamserthal, the, 2*3 
Schanfigg, valley of, 373 
Scharans, village of. 369 
Schergenbach torrent. 364 
Schienige Platte, the, 61 
Schiersch, village of, 355 
Schiersch, Schruns to, 360 
Schiersch, Vadans to, 360 
Schilzhach torrent, 229 
Schindellegi, 172 
Schinznach, springs of, 158 
Schlans, village of. r22 
Schleins, village of, 393 
Schleiss, 446 
Schlinig, village of, 446 
Schlinigthal, the, 446 
Schluder Scharte, 435 
Schmadri Glacier, 98 
Schmadribach, falls of the, 98 
Schmelzboden, 372 
Schmerikon, 187, 204 
Schmue torrent, 223 
Schneerose ravine, 196 
Schollinen, gorge of, 263 
Schonengrund, 234 
Schrattenkalk, 69 
Schratten Alp, 122 
Schreckfirn. the, 115 
Schreyenbach, fall of the, 192 
Schruns, 352 

Schruns to Kiiblis, by the Gampadel Joch (?), 

360 

Schruns to Kiiblis, by the Plasseggen Pass, 

361 

Schruns to Schiersch, 360 
Schuls, 390 

Schuls to Mals, by Val Scarla (§37, Rte. M), 
445 

Schiipfheim, 128 
Schwag Alp, 242 
Schwanau, castle of, 170 
Schwanden, 189 
Schwaienbach, 36 




518 


SCH 


GENERAL INDEX 


STA. 


Schweiningen, 367 
Schwendi, village of. 236 
Schwendibach torrent, 237 
Schwingfeste, 128 
Schwyz, town of, 170 
Schwyz, Lucerne to (§ 26, Rte. C), 158 
Schwyz to Richterschwyl, by Rothenthurrn, 
(§ 26, Rte. D), 171 

Schwyz to Rapperschwyl, bv Einsiedlen (§ 26, 
Rte. E), 172 

Schwyz to Glarus, by the Pragel Pass (§ 26, 
Rte. K', 178 

Schwyz, Lachen to, by the Waggi Thai (§ 26, 
Rte. Nl, 183 

Schyn. defile of, 366, 369 
Sciundrau, Lago, 313 
Scudelatte, hamlet of, 342 


Sedrun,217 

Seealpsee, 238 

Seedorf. village of, 176 

Seelisberg, village of, 177 

Seewen, village of, 170 

Seewis, village of, 212, 298, 355, 360 

Seewis, Liiner See to, 360 

Seewis, Nenzing to, by the G^osse Furka, 360 

Seewis, Nenzing to, by the Kleine Furka, 360 

Seewis, Saminathal to, pass from, 360 

Seghe, Val delle, 487 

Segnes Thai, 212 

Searino, Lago di, 345 

Selden, Im, chalets of, 101 

Selva, Val, 429 

Selva, Val, 469 

Sementina, gorge of the, 268, 305 
Sempach, 148 
Sempach, Lake of, 148 
Sengg. 65, 71 

Sennhiitten of Appenzell, 231 
Sense or Singine river, 25, 26 
Sentis District (§ 28), 230 
Qpnpv Q 

Serbelloni, Villa, 326 
Seriana, Val, 439 
Serneus, Baths of, 356 
Sernfthal, the, 225 
Sevelen. 235 

S. Fedele, church of, 340 


Sierre, 41 

Sierre, Thun to. by Adelboden, and the Stru- 
beleck (§ 23, Rte. D), 46 
Signau. village of, 127 
Sigriswyl, 64 
Sibl river, 159 
Sihlbriicke, the, 161 
Silberthal, the, 352 
Silenen, 262 
Silissi, Lake of, 464 
Si Is, village of, 387 
Silser See, 386 

Silvaplana, village of, 369, 385 
Silvaplaner See, 383, 388 
Silvretta Glacier, 358 
Sknmenthal, Ober, 48 
Simplon road, 250 
Sinestra, Val, 363 
Singine or Sense river, 25, 26 
Sins, village of, 393 
Sion, 15 

S on, Bex to, by the Col de Cheville (§ 22, Rte, 
D), 13 

Sion to Saanen (§ 22, Rte. El. 15 

-by the Sanetsoh Pass 15 

-by the Gelten Pass, 16 



Sion, Thun to, or Sierre, by the Rawyl Pass 
(§ 23, Rte. E), 48 
Sionne valley, 18 
Sissach station, 31 
Sissingen, hamlet of, 156, 182 
Sitter river, 232 
Soglio, 386 
Soja, Val, 300 
Soladino, waterfall of, 310 
Sol da, Val, 338 
Sole, Val di, 429 

Soleure or Solothurn, town of, 30 
Solisbriicke, the. 369 
Solothurn or Soleure, town of, 30 
Somascona, 277 
Someo, 310 

Somvix, village of, 215, 292 
Somvixerthal, 292 
Sonceboz. village of, 30 
Sondalo, 404 
Sondrio, town of, 402 

S ndrio, Casaccia to, by the Muretto Pass 
(§36, R e. G), 409 

Sondrio, Bergamo to, by Val Brembana (§ 38, 
Rte. B), 450 

Sondrio, Edolo to, by Aprica Pass (§ 39, 
Rte. E), 463 

Sonogno, village of, 308 
Sorenberg, 127 
Sotto, Valle di, 404 
Sous-la-Lex, 14 
Soybach, the. 431 
Sparlotsch, Val, 370 ‘ 

Speicher, village of, 23S 
Spiez, castle and village of, 63 
Spiggengrund,42 
Spiggengrund,the, 96 
Soillauer See, 220 
Spina Bad, 373 
Spinone, Lago di, 462 
Spiringen, 177 
Spluga, Val <ii, 405 
Splugen, village of, 284, 319 
Spliigen, Richenau to, bv Savien and the 
Ldehliberg Pass (§31, Rte. H), 3C1 
Spondinig, 420 
Sporrggio, Val, 488 
Stabina, Val, 452 
Stachelberg, 192 

Stachelberg, Altdorf to, by the Klausen Pass 
(§ 26, Rte. 1). 177 

Stachelberg, Muotta to, by the Bisithal (§ 26, 
Rte. Mi, 182 

Stachelberg, Zurich to, by Glarus (§27, Rte. A), 
185 

Stachelberg to Amsteg, by the Clariden Grat 
(§27. Rte. B ), 197 

Stachelberg, Dissentis to, by the Sand Grat 
(§ 27. Rte. F), 220 

Stachelberg. llanz or Dissentis to, by the 
Kisten Pass (§27, Rte. Gl, 222 
Stachelberg, Elm to, by the Richetli Pass (§ 27, 
Rte. M), 229 
Stafa, village of, 186 
Stalvedro, defile of, 266 
Stanz, 131, 173 

Stanz to Altdorf, by Isenthal (§26, Rte. G). 175 
Stanz to Altdorf, by Beekenried and the Son- 
nenberg (§ 26, Rte. H), 176 
Stanzerthal, the, 351 
stanzstad, 133 

Stanzstad, Meyringen to, by the Melch Thai, 
(25, Rte. B), 132 


GENERAL INDEX. 


519 


ST A 

Stanzstadto Altdorf. by Engelberg and tlic Su- 
rener Pass (§26. Rte! F), 173 
Stai kenstein. castle of, 240 
Starlera, Val, 380 
Suiibbach, the, 75 
Staiibibacli, waterfall of the, 178 
Stechelberg, 98 
Stein Alp, 138 

Stein Alp to Guttanen. by the Steinlimmi and 
Furtwang Passes (§ 25, ltie. Gj, 142 
Stein, village of. 241 
Steinberg Alp, 98 • 

Steinon Glacier, 255 
Steinmahner, 123 
Stenico, village of, 481 
Stieregg, 69 
Stilfs, 424 
Stilserthal, 424 
Stockgron, 216 
Storo, village of, 485 

Storo to Toscolano on the Lake of Gar ’a, by 
Val Vestino (§ 40, Kte. G). 485 
Strim Thai, 217, 219 
Strima torrent, 217 
Stuben, village of, 351 
Stulserthal, the, 378 
Sufprs, 284 
Sulden Ferner, 436 
Sulden Glacier, 433 

Sulden, Laas to, by the Laaserthal, (§ 47, Rte. 
FA 43' 

Suldenthal, the, 434 
Sulsanna, Val, 377, 378 
Sulzberg, Val di, 429 
Surkasti. village and castle of, 296 
Surpalix, glen of, 218 
Surrhein, 215, 292 
Sur Sass (about 7, 800'), 446 
Sursee, town of, 148 
Sursura, v a l, 378 
•Sursura Glacier, 391 
Siis, 391 

Siis, Maienfeld to. by the Praettigau and the 
Vereina Pass (§34, Rte. D), 355 
Siis. Davos and Platz to, by the Fluela Pass 
(§35. Rte. F), 375 
Susasca, Val, 376 
Siiserthal, the. 357 
Susine, Val delle, 476 
Susten, 41 
Suvretta, Val, 398 
Sw rrzwald Glacier, the Lower, 67 


rp ARARETT ATHAL, 424 
-L Talleggio, Val, 450 
Tamina, the, 207 
Tannins, 211 
Tanni Alp, 132 
Tarasp, hamlet of, 392 
Tartavalle, 45 4 
Tasna Val, 363 

Tatschbach, cascade of the, 173 

Tauffers, 445 

Ta vanasa, 213 

Tavannes, 30 

Ta» erne, 334 

Tavetsch, Mompfe. 217 

Tavetscher Thai, 217 

Taveyannaz, 12 

Tedesco, Mezzo, 430 


TRA 

Teglio, 403 
Tellina, Val, 400 
Tellithal, the, 102 
Tells Platte, 156 
Teo, Val di, 413 
Tenji, Val, 292 
Tenniger Bad, 293 
Tenno. Lago di, 482 
Terri Gebirge, 296 
Termine, Val, 280 
Terms, or Tazzola, Val, 217 
Teufen, village of, 239 
Thalkirch, village of, 303 
Thalwyl, 186 
Thiermatten, 51 
Thun, town of, 22, 32 

Thun, Vevey to, by the Bulle and the Simmen- 
thal (§ 2, Rte. G), 19 
Thun, Bulle to (§ 22, Rte. L), 26 
Thun to Kandersteg, by the Kien Thai (§ 23, 
Rte. B), 41 

Thun to Sierre, by Adelboden, and the Stru- 
beleck (§ 23, Rte. E), 47 
Thun to Sion, or Sierre, by the Rawyl Pass 
(§ 23, Rte. F), 48 
-by Zweisimmen, 48 

-by the Diemtigen Thai and Grimmi Pass, 

51 

-by Adelboden, 51 

Thun to Interlaken and Meyringen.or Reichen- 
bach (§ 24, Rte. A), 58 
Thun, Lake of. or Thunersee, 235 
Thur, valley of the, 240 
Thusis, 281 

Thusis to Tiefenka-den (§ 35, Rte. B), 369 

r J iarms, Val, or Gammerthal, 218 

Tiarno di Sotto. 483 

Tiatscha, V^dret, 358 

Tiefenkasten, village of, 367 

Tiefenkasten, Thusis to (§ 35, Rte. B), 3G9 

Tine, La, defile of, 20 

Tinzen,367 

Tione, village of. 473 

Tione to Riva on the Lake of Garda (§ 40, 
Rte. D), 481 

Tione, Pieve di Ledro to (§ 40, Rte. F), 484 
Tirano, La Madonna di, sanctuary ol, 403 
Tirano, town of, 403, 414 

Tirano, Samaden to, by the Bernina Pass 
(§ 36, Rte. K). 412 

Tirano, Bergamo to, by Val Seriana (§ 38, Rte. 
A), 439 

Titlis district <§ 25), 129 
Tivano, or north wind, 323 
Tobel, Maschiinzer, 209 

-Scalara, 209 

Tobel, Welsch, ravine of, 374 
Todi district (§ 27), 184 
Todtensee, 81 , . 

Toggenburg, the, 240 
Toggia, Val, 251 
Toma See, 219 
Torno, 329 
Tosa Fall, 249 
Tosa river, 249 
Toscolano, village of, 486 

Toscolano on the Lake of Garda, Storo to, by 
Val Vestino (§ 4", Rte. G), 485 
Toscolano, Val, 486 
'Ed'S river, 204 
Trabucchello, village of. 450 
Trach'ellauenen, hamlet of, 98 
Tratiiume, 315 






520 


GENERAL INDEX. 


TRA 

Trafni. village of. 423 

Trafni, Male to, by the Suldenthal (§ 37, Rte. 
F), 435 

Trafoiferner, Unter, 424 

- Hinter-, 424 

Traona, Val, 401 
Trasquera, village of, 256 
Travers, village of, 5 
Traversagna, Val, 337 
Treib, hamlet of, 177 
Tremezzo, village of, 327 
Trento, Bormio to, by Val Furva and Val di 
Sole (§ 37. Rte. B„425 
Trepalle, village of, 417 
Tresa, Ponte, village of, 338 
Tresa river, 338 
Trescorre, Baths of, 449 
Tresenda, 403 
Trevisio, village of, 402 
TrirK 919 

Troge'n, village of. 236, 238 
Trogen, Rorschach to (§ 28, Rte. D), 235 
Trompia, Val, 466 
Trons, village of, 214 

Trons to Olivone, by the Greina Pass (§ 31, 
Rte. D), 292 
Triib See, 135 
Triibbach, 235 
Trubschachen,127 
Trugberg Glacier, 88 
Triimmletenthal, the, 72 
Trupchum, Val, 418 
Triitzi-see, 83 
Tschep, Piz (9,6560, 211 
Tschiertschen, village of, 374 
Tschierva, Vadret da, 396 
Tschingel Glacier, 100 
Tuoi, Val, 362 
Tuors, Val, 370, 378 
Turtman, 41, 45 

Turtman, Kandersteg to, by the Lotschen Pass 
(§ 23, Rte. C), 44 

Turtman, Lauterbrunnen to, by the Lotschen- 
thal (§ 24, Rte. G), 100 


U ESCHlNENTHAL,36s 53 
Ufenau, island of, 186 
Ufiern, 278 
Uina, Val d\ 393,446 
Ulrichen, 83, 247 
Ultinum,the Roman, 31 
Ultenthal, the, 438 
Unspunnen, 77 
Unteralpthal, the, 274 
Unterseen, 58 
Unterterzen, 205 
Unterthal, 228 
Urbachthal, the, 78, 121 
Urezas, Val, 363 
Urnasch, village of, 241 
Urner Alp, 123 
Urner See, 153 
Urner Loch, 264 
Urnerboden, 178 
Urkantone, the three, 268 
Urschai, Val, 363 
Urserenthal, 264 
Uster, town of, 204 
Uznach, 233 
Uznach, town of, 204 
Uznach to St. Gall (§ 28, Rte. B), 233 


VIT 

Y ADANS, 352* 

Vadans to Schiersch, 360 
Vaduz, village of, 354 
Valbella, hamlet of, 292, 366 
Valbona, mine of, 454 
Valcalda torrent, 361 
Valcava, 445 
Valendas, 212 
Valens, hamlet of, 207 
Vallatsch, glen of, 300 
Valleve, village of, 451 
Valschauer torrent, 440 
Valserthal, the, 298 
Vanescha, Val, 297 
Vanescha, hamlet of, 297 
Varenna, 331 

Varenna to Introbbio (§ 38, Rte. F), 457 

Varese, town of, 343 

Varonne torrent, 456 

Vattis, 227 

Vatzer See, 366 

Vatzerol, 366 

Vedasca, Val, 305 

Veltlin, 400 

Venezia, Malga di, 475 

Venoge river, 8 

Verdasio. 316 

Vergeletto, village of, 315 

Vermiglio, Val, 449 

Vernelathal, the, 358 

Vernex,8 

Verridres, Les, village of, 5 
Versam, 212 
Versam, village of, 302 
Verva, Va 1 di, 404, 416 
Vevey, town of, 8 

Vevey to Thun by the Bulle and the Simmen- 
thal (§ 2, Rte. G), 19 
Verzasca, Val, 308 
Vestino, Val, 485 

Vestonein Val Sabbia, Brescia to (§39, Rte.K), 
467 

Vevey, Chateau d’Oex to, on foot or horseback 
(§ 22, Rte. H), 22 
Vevey, by the Col de Chaude, 23 
Vevey to Fribourg and Berne (§ 22, Rte. I), 23 
Vezza, 460 

Vico Soprano, Morbegno to, by the Passo di 
Zocca, 407 

Vico Soprano, village of, 386 
Vierwaldstatter See, or Lake of Lucerne, 153 
Viesch Glacier, 89 
Viesch, 83 

Viesch to Brieg, by the TEggischhorn and Bell 
Alp (§ 24, Rte. D), 84 

Viesch to Formazza (Andermatten), by the 
Albrun Pass and Lebendu (§29, Rte. C), 251 
Viesch to Premia, by the Binnenthal (§ 29 
Rte. D), 253 

Viesch to Isella, by the Ritter Pass (§ 29, 
Rte. E), 254 
Vigezzo, Val, 316 
Vignitzthal, the, 353, 364 
Vignone. Val, 284 
Villa, 396, 403 
Villeneuve, 8 

Vindonissa, Roman settlement of, 158 
Viola, Val, 415, 416 
Visp, 45 

Visp. Kandersteg to (§ 23, Rte. C), 44 
Vitelli, Val di, 432—Vedretta di, 432 
Vitznau, village of, 167 
Vitznau, descent from the Rigi to, 167 




GENERAL 


INDEX. 


fc VI 


521 


VOL 

Vollan, 441 
Vorauen, 179 

Vorarll>e-rg, province of, 351 
Vrin, 296 


W AGGI THAL, the, 183 

Waggithal, Hinter, village of, 183 
Waggithal, Vorder, village of, 183 
Waggis, 154, 165 

A\ aggis, descent from the Rigi to, 165 

Wald, 236 

Waldibalm, 199 

Waldnacht Alp, 175 

Waldshut, 202 

Waldstatt, 234 

W'allburga, St., village of, 440 
Wallenstadt, Lake of, 204—town of, 205 
Wallenstadt, Wildhaus to, by the Churfirsten 
(§ 28, Rte. M), 246 
W'allgau. 350 
Wallisellen, 204 
Walserthal, 351 
Walzenhausen, 234 
Wandenschwyl, town of, 186 
Wasen, 138 

Wasen, Meyringen to, by the Susten Pass 
(§ 25, Rte. E), 137 
Wasserleiter, the, of the Valais, 50 
Wauwyl, 147 
Wauwyler See, 147 
Weissbach, torrent, 237 
W pissbfid 236 

Weissbad, Rorschach to (§ 28, Rte. D), 235 
Weissbad to the valley of the Rhine (§ 28, Rte. 
F' 1 239 

Weissbad, Nesslau to (§ 28, Rte. I), 242 
Weissenburg, 21 

- Baths of, 21 

W'eisstannen, village of, 228 

Weisstannenthal, the, 228 

Welsch language, 424 

• Welt, End der,’ 438 

Wenden Glacier, 137 

Wenderberg, 241 

Wengern Alp, 72, 73 

Wesen, village of, 187, 204 

Wesen, Nesslau to (§ 28, Rte. K), 242 

Wettereismeer, the. 121 

Wettingen, abbey of, 159 

Wichlen Glacier, 223 

^ViGS6ii 372 

Wildbad, Wildhaus to, by the Kray Alp (§ 28, 
Rte. L), 243 
Wildegg, 157 
Wilderschwyl, 77 
Wildhaus, village of, 240 

Wildhaus to Wildbad, by the Kray Alp (§ 28, 
Rre. L), 243 

Wildhaus to Wallenstadt, by the Churfirsten 
(§ 28, Rte. M), 246 


Wildkirchli, the, 237 
Wildstrubel Glacier, 53 
Wimmis, village of, 33 
Windegg, the, 140 
Windisch, 158 
Winkel, 132 
Winterthur, 204, 231 

Winterthur to Rorschach, by railway (§ 28, 
Rte. A), 231 
Wirthshans, Ofen, 444 
Wissenstein, 371 
Woert, castle of, 203 
Wohlhausen, 128 
Wolfenschiessen, 173, 174 
Worb. village of, 127 
Worms, 421 
Wunderbrunnen, 135 
Wyl, town of, 232, 240 

Wyl to Sargaus, by the Toggenburg (§ 28, Rte. 
G), 240 

Wyler, village of, 34, 61,71 
Wyttenwasser Glacier, 271 


Y v ERDUN, town of, 7 


Z AIFEllNER, 434 
Zapport Alp, 288 
Zapport Glacier, 288 
Zavreila, hamlet of, 299 
Zavreilthal, village of, 299 
Zebru, Val di, 425 , 

Zernetz, village of, 391 \ 

Zernetz, Bormio to, 418 

Zernetz to Mals, by the Ofen Pass and Val 
Mustair (§ 37, Rte. L), 441 
Zerzerthal, the„446 
Zgraggenthal, 262 
Zillis, village of, 283 
Zizers, 209 

Zofingen, town of, 148 
Zogno,450 
Zufall Ferner, 437 

Zufrid Ferner, or Gramser Ferner, 439 

Zug, Lake of, 162 

Zug, town of, 161 

Zuklo, 482 

Zura, Val, 277 

Zurich, Lake of, 161 

Zurich, town of, 159 

Zurich to Stachelberg, by Giarus (§ 27, Rte. A ), 
185 

Zutz, village of, 390 
Zweilutschmen, 76, 96 
Zweisimmen, 20, 48 
Zwing Uri, castle of, 262 


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